Lesvos 2009/09/17 - Lesvos Birding

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    Lesvos | 17 24 September 2009

    A Speyside Wildlife Holiday

    led by Lesvos Birdings Steve Dudley | www.lesvosbirding.com

    Day 1, Thursday, 17 September

    WemeetupatGatwickearlyinthemorningandaftertheusualairportprocedures,wearejettingoffLesvos!

    WearriveanhourlateatMytilinibutaresoononourwayandsomeofusgetting

    ourfirstviewsofLesvosandimmediatelyseejusthowcloseTurkeyis!

    OnroutetothehotelwecutbytheKalloniSaltpanswhicharecoveredin

    Flamingoswhichlookstunninginthebrightsunlight.WesooncheckintothehotelandwalkintoSkalaKallonisandhaveadelightful

    latelightlunchtotideusovertotheevening.WalkingbacktothehotelweseeaRedbackedShrikeand11Beeeatersprpoverhead.

    WecollectourthingsandheadofftoMetochiLake.WespyacouplemoreRedbackedShrikesalongthefieldedges,andaWhinchat,beforearrivingatthelake

    itself.Anditsfulltothebrim,nottheusualautumnpuddleSteveexpectedto

    find.StripedneckedTerrapinsslideoffthebanksintothewaterbeforeresurfacingwithjusttheirsnoutsstickingoutofthewater.SeveralSpotted

    FlycatchersmakesortiesfromvarioustreesandreedswhenDavidspotsabirdflittingaroundthebottomofsometamarisksonasmallislandjustinfrontofus.

    ItsaCettisWarblerandwegetgreatviewasithopsaroundontheground

    beforeflyingoff.AEuropeanPondTerrapinishauleduponalogonthefarshore.ThereareseveralMoorhensinthetamarisksonthefarside,andacouple

    ofLittleGrebesstickclosetothefaredgecover.JuneandStevespotaLittleBitternasitlandsinthetamarisksbutcompletelydisappears.Wecheckthefar

    endofthelateandfindmoreterrapins,someMarshFrogsandamaleLesser

    Emperordragonflyhawkingalongthestagnantchannel.DaphnethanspotsaSnipewhichcrouchesdowntoavoiddetectionbythemaraudingdogwhichis

    followingus!

    Agentlestarttotheholidayendswithdinnerbackinthevillageandagraceful

    retreattoourbeds.Itsbeenalongdayandtheholidaywillbegininearnestinthemorning!

    Day 2, Friday, 18 September

    Wewaketoabright,cloudlessskyandmeetupfora0730breakfast.Itsalready

    warmingupquick,andafterbreakfastwearekeentomakeourwayovertotheTsikniasRiverMouthandgetstuckintosomebirds.Wepullupandaregreeted

    byalreadyfamiliarcallofCrestedLarks.ApartyofLinnetsflyoveraswebegintoscantherivermouth.YellowleggedGullsoccupythebestroostingspots

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    whilstaGreyHeronpreenssatonasubmergedbranchandaCormorantperches

    onapost.StevespotsaCurlewonthemudspit.WebegintoheadupriverwhenafieldfullofLinnetsandGoldfinchesstopsus.Wegrillthefieldbutcanfind

    nothingelse.AswedriveslowlyalongtheriveraBlackStorkfliespastandlandsbrieflyinfrontofus.

    WetakeaquicklookaroundthefordwherethereareseveralLittleRingedPlovers,WhiteandYellowWagtails,HouseSparrowsandCornBuntingsaround

    thepuddlesintheriverbed.Weparktheminibusandwalkouttowardstheriver

    mouth.AjuvenileRedbackedShrikepopsuponthefenceaheadofusandthereareNorthernWheatearsonthetrackandintheadjacentfields.TheLesserGrey

    Shrikefromearlierisseenagain,thistimemuchclosergivingbetterview.AnIsabellineWheatearisseenbrieflyonthetrackandswallowsandmartinsbuzz

    overheadastheyeagerlypushsouthwards.

    Wedropofftheriverbankintoanopenareawithscatteredtamerisks.Northern

    WheatearsandCrestedLarksareeverywhere.StevepicksupthreeHoopoes

    feedingatthebackofthesheepfieldandwegetreasonableviewsthroughthescopes.JustaroundthecornerwehavebriefviewsofayoungmaleLesser

    Kestrelbeforetheskyaboveusfillswithhirundinesandthefirstofabout80AlpineSwifts,includingsomeincrediblylowbirdslowenoughtoseethewhite

    throat!

    Wemoveontotheeasternsideofthesaltpans.OverthehillbehindusDaphne

    spiestowbirdscirclingwhichturnouttobeaRavenbeingmobbedbyaSparrowhawk.AcrossthepansthereisadenseflockoffeedingAvocetsand

    groupofCommonShelduck.Theflamingosaredistantfromhere,buttheirstrikingpinkisstillvisibleevenatadistance.

    WewanderdownthetrackandfindmoreCrestedLarks,CornBuntings,aRed

    backedShrikeandaWhinchat.ViewingthepansagainwecannowseeatleastthreeGreenshank,fourCurlewandbothLittleandGreatWhiteEgrets.

    It/sgettingwarmnowsomoveoffintotheshadeofAchladeriForest.Nosooner

    areweinthetreeswhenStevespotsourfirstKrpersNuthatch.Thereare

    plentyofbirdsflittingaroundandmaybeuptofournuthatchesfeedinglowdownontreetrunks,flittingfromtrunktotrunktreecreeperstyle.Woodlark

    putsinabriefappearance,asdoesaShorttoedTreecreeperandaCirlBuntingsingsitsrattlesongfromthepinetops.

    WehavelunchattheseasideAncientPyrrataverna.Itslovelyhereintheshadewiththecoolbreezecomingoffthesea.Solovelyinfactemakesurewehavea

    nice,slowlunchbeforeheadingbackintotheheatoftheday!

    Wemakebackintotheforest,thistimewalkingslowlyalongaforesttrack.Its

    deathlyquiet.RockandWoodlandGraylingsflitaroundus,buttheplaceislargelybirdfree.WespendsometimeenjoyingapowderblueSmallSkimmer

    restingonthetrackbeforeheadingbacktoheminibuswhenStevespotsacoupleofKrpersNuthatchesinthetreerightaboveus.Wegetwonderfulviews

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    ofthisdiminutivenuthatch,themaleisparticularlyshowymakingupforthe

    poorviewsearlier.Arrivingbackattheminibustwobirdsappearinthecloudlessblueskyabovethetreecoveredhillsidetoourleft.ARavenisbeing

    mobbedbyanotherbirdEleonorasFalconexclaimsStevepointingoutthesalientfeatures.Butthesightingistoobriefasthefalcondisappearsoverthe

    ridgeofthehill.WemoveonaroundthecornertotheVouvarisRiverMouth.AcoupleofGrey

    HeronsaredisturbedfromthepinesbythebridgeandacoupleofKingfishers

    chaseeachotherbeforeafemaleSparrowhawkfliesover.AttherivermouththereareseveralCormorantsanduptofourGreyHerons.,butlittleelse.

    WemakeourwayaroundtoKalloniSaltpans.Alltheflamingosareinthe

    northwestcornerandthelateafternoonlightisfabulouslightingupthewhole

    scene.Aquickcountestimatesthereareover800flamingos!Thereisconstantchangingwithintheflamingos.Somearefeedingwiththeirupsidedownhead

    busyinthewater.Otherswalkaroundserenely.Occasionallyoneflashesits

    underwingsshowingitsvividredarmpits.FourBlackStorksflaplazilybehindtheflamingosbeforealightingonadistancepan.DaphnespiesdistantShorttoed

    EaglebeforeStevepointsanotherfalconcomingoverthepanswhichturnsouttobeoursecondEleonorasoftheafternoon!

    Itsbeenahotyetthoroughlyrewardingdayasweheadoffbackacrossthefields,fundingoursecondLesserGreyShrikeoftheday,onourwaybacktothehotel.

    Afterarestandfreshenupwewalkintothevillageforanotherenjoyableevening.

    Lesser Grey Shrike, nr Kalloni Saltpans

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    Day 3, Friday, 19 September

    Wewaketothenowfamiliarsoundsofsheepbells,cockerelsandbrayingdonkeys!Afterbreakfastweheadoutintoanovercastmorningwhichisbliss,

    andheadtowardsMetochilake.WestoptoviewacoupleofWhinchatsonthefencewhenStevespotsatwoTurtleDovesalightonanoverheadwire.Thescope

    issoontrainedonthemandwegetexcellentviewsbeforetheyflyofffollowedbythreemore.AhugeflockofGoldfinchesswarmthedeadthistlesinadryfieldandasingleRedbackedShrikeissatinanearbytree.

    AtthelakeweseetheusualLittleGrebeandMoorhensandtheCommonSnipefromThursdayisstillhappilyprobingthemudfringe.Wewalkalongthetrack

    throughthefieldsandsoonfindacoupleofJaysandgetexcellentviewsoftheirblackcapswhichmarkthemasadifferentracetotheJaysbackhome.Wecan

    hereMiddleSpottedWoodpeckersmockingusfromwithintheolivegroves

    whichholdonlysparrowsandtheoccasionalWillowWarblerforustoactuallysee.

    Wetakeaturnwhichtakesusalongthebottomofarockyhillside.StevepointsouttheconstantcallingofRockNuthatches.Westopintheshadeofatreeto

    scantherocks.ThenuthatchescallsarejoinedbythedryrattlesongofaCirlBuntingwecantseeeitheroftheseeither!WedofindourfirstAgamalizard

    sittingtypicallyatoparockwhenSteveeventuallyspotsaRockNuthatchonthe

    toppermostrockaboveus.AlthoughnotclosethelightisbehindusandperfectforviewingtheRockyNutandwecanseeclearlyhisbanditmaskandbuffy

    flanks.Itbouncesroundtherocksalittlewithasecondbirdbeforedisappearing.WemoveononlyafewyardsbeforefindingaCommonWhitethroatandaclose

    RedbackedShrikewhichhascaughtagrasshopper.Theshrikesitsstillinalittlebushbeforeeventuallystartingtotearatthegrasshopper.Weviewfromtheshadeofasweetsmellingfigtreebeforeagaintakingtotheopenandthe

    increasinglyfiercesun.Wepassthroughanopenareawithfewbirdsandturn

    alonganothertrackbyanewallotmentbuilding,itsfreshpaintgleaminginthestrongsunlight.AtthelittlebridgeweseeasecondCommonWhitethroatand

    anotherRedbackedShrikebeforefollowingthetrackdownthebackofthelake.TwoLesserWhitethroatsappearandthendisappearassuddenlyastheyhad

    appearedandourwalkisaccompaniedwithbytheconstantploppingof

    terrapinsdroppingintothechannelunseen.Arrivingbackbythesouthernendofthelake,Daphnespotsaraptorinthesky.Stevegetsontothehigherbirdand

    proclaimsitasamaleMontagusHarrierwhilsttheotherisaCommonBuzzard.APurpleHeronthenfliespasttoofastforallourlikings!Alasthegroupmiss

    theGreenSandpiperSteveflushesfromtheendofthelake.

    WemoveoffnorthtotheKalloniRaptorWatchPoint.Theovercastmorninghas

    givenwaytotheexpectedclearblueskiesandincreasinglyhotsun.Thewatch

    pointisatblessedwithacoveredpicnictableforsometoenjoytheshade.DavidandStevestickitoutinthesunandinbetweenRockNuthatchappearances

    distantRedfootedandEleonorasFalconsareseen.

    WearriveatMolivosandheaduptothecastletoenjoytheviewsovertoTurkeyandwestacrossthebaytoIpsilouandthewesternendoftheisland.Wemoveon

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    downtotheharbourwhereweenjoyalovelyrelaxinglunchbytheharbourside,

    withsomeofeventryingafewnewGreekseafoodspecialtiesforthefirst(andlast!)time.

    AfteranequallyrelaxingcoffeeweheadofftoPerasma.Thereservoirholds16

    LittleGrebesaswellsasmanydrinkingcrowsandlotsofbathingYellowleggedGulls.AWhiteWagtailfliesaroundnoisily.OurwalkfindsonlysparrowsbeforeDaphnespotsanotherraptor.Stevegetshisscopeontoitanditsnowone,but

    twomaleMarshHarriersthatquicklyheadoffsouthintightcircles.Withno

    otherbirdsobviousandonlyafewRedveinedDarterstooccupy,wereturntotheminibusandheadoffeastfollowingtheroadbelowMountLepetimnos.The

    viewsarestunningaswedrivebelowthehighestmontainontheislandwitheachtwistandturnofthewindingroadgivingusbreathtakingviewafter

    breathtakingview.Turkeytoourleftremainseverpresentandahopethatthere

    areraptorswingingtherewayacrossthenarrowstraighttowardsus.

    Short-toed Eagle, nr Lepetimnos

    JustbeforeLepetimnosvillagewepullovertoenjoytheviewacrossthenorthoftheislandandacrosstoTurkey,whichisjustastonesthrowaway.Daphneasks

    ifthisisjustagullhoveringnearby.GullsdonthoverthoughtSteveand

    swingingroundseesaShorttoedEagleonlyacoupleofhundredyardsawayandalmostatoureyelevel,windhoveringintheincreasingnortherlybreeze.We

    watchintentlyforseveralminutesasthebirdhangsintheskywithoutflappingasinglewingbeat!Itturns,glidesandresumesitshover.Afterashorttimeit

    drops,hoversagain,thendropsfurtherandoutofsightclearlyafterprey.Wow!

    Whatashow.Weheadonalongtheroadandafteracoupleofbendswecomeacrosstheeagleagainaboveus.Wemanagetofindasafeplacetopulloverand

    werebackoutthebusandwatchinganequallyabsorbingspectacle,butthis

    timefrombelowandabletoenjoyallthebirdsundersidemarkings.WerestillwatchingtheeaglewhenStevespotsasmallerraptorcominginfromtheright.

    Goshawk!heshoutsandweallgetgoodviewsasitwheelspastusandoutofsight.AnotherWow!

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    ItsgettinglateaswepullintotheNapivalleyandtheresonlytimeforacouple

    ofshortstops.ThefirstisatthenorthendandaswegetoutofthebusStevespotsasmalleaglecomingstraightatus.BootedEagle!heexclaimsasitbanks

    rightandflapsofrapidlysouthdownthevalley.Damn!Thatwasfartoobriefaview!SeveralCirlBuntingsaresingingbutcanwefindoneno!Frustratedwe

    headoffsouthandarestoppedinourtracksjustnorthofNapivillagewhenaBlueRockThrushfliesacrosstheroadinfrontofus.Wequicklyturnofftheroadandaresoonwatchingamalesatatoparockoccasionallysinging.Times

    pressingsoweboardthebusasStevespotsaSombreTitbutbythetimethe

    othersareoutitsgonebutbothDaphneandStevegetbriefviewsofaBlackearedWheatearbeforewehavetoheadmoveoff.

    Wearrivebackatthehoteltofreshenupbeforedinner.Thediningroomhas

    beentransformedforaweddingparty.Afterdinnerwearrivebacktofindthe

    guestsjustbeginningtoarrivefora10pmstart.Itsgoingtobealong,noisynightinthehotel!

    Day 4, Sunday, 20 September

    Wewakeandbreakfasttothesoundofthelocalchurchbellscallingthelocalstoprayer.ThismorningweheadsouthlongtheeasternsideoftheGulfofKalloni

    takingthebeachtrackfromAchladeritoSkalaVasilikon.Therearefewbirds

    otherthanCrestedLarksinthefieldsandalongtrack.ArrivingatthesmallharbourofSkalaVasilikonwefindfourMediterraneanGullsontheharbourwall

    twoadultsandtwofirstwinterbirds.ContinuingsouthtoSkamnioudiwecomeacrossseveralfieldsthathavejustbeencutandareteemingwithbirds.Thefirst

    isextraordinaryasitscrawlingwithWillowWarblers,ChiffchaffsandGreatTitsallfeedingonthegroundalongthecutrowsintheopenfield!ThesecondfieldismoretypicalbeingfullofYellowWagtailsbobbingbetweentherowsofcut

    crop.ContinuingonwegetexcellentviewsofanadultWoodchatShrikefeeding

    bytheroadsideformwiresandadeadtree.

    Mediterranean Gulls, Skala Vasilikon

    WearriveatthePolichnitosSaltpansandareimmediatelyintothebirds.The

    windispickingupconsiderablyandhamperingviewing,especiallywiththescope,butthereisplentytolookat.KentishandRingedPloversfeedinthedrier

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    pansalongtheroadsidewhilstRedshank,Greenshank,Ruff,Avocet,Ruff,Little

    StintandDunlinareallwadingaroundthewaterareasofseveralpans.OverthefieldsoppositethepansweseeaLesserKestrelalltoobrieflybeforeitmakesoff!

    BackonthepanstwoduckstakeflightandonceresettledbackonthepansturnouttoaPintailandaShoveler.TwoBlackwingedStiltsareseenandthena

    juvenileWhiskeredternappearsamongstthehawkingBlackheadedGulls.ThebundsarefullofroostinggullsanddottedamongthemareLittleandGreatWhiteEgrets,GreyHeronandBlackStorks.Thestorksappeartobeworking

    theirwayalongthepanandacoupleofbirdsevenwingtheirwayoffoverthe

    nearbyhillsidetotryandfindathermaltoliftthemontheirwaysouth.Somechanceinthisstringwind,andthetwobirdsdisappearlowoverthehills.Intotal

    weseeatleast17BlackStorks,includingseveraljuvenilebirds.StevethenmanagestopickoutaSlenderbilledGullfeedingamongtheBlackheaded.Itsa

    juvenilebirdandwesoonlocateasecond.Wesoonhavethemscopesand

    everyonecansoonseethesubtledifferencebetweentheSlenderbilledandtheBlackheaded.ScopingtherestofthegullsStevethenspotsagleamingadultbird

    inthenearestgroupoffeedingbirds.Thisadultisfeedingveryactivelyand

    totallydifferenttoalltheBlackheaded.Itstandstalldashingaround,neckoutstretchedconstantlypickingatthewatersurface.Itscleanwhiteheadand

    neckandgleaming,longbloodredbillstandsoutamile.SearchingsomemoreSteveeventuallypicksouttwomoreadults,thistimebothinwinterplumage

    withthegreyearsmudge.

    WemoveoffsouththroughthetownofPolichnitosanddowntowardsthesouth

    coast.WebriefstopatariverbridgeseesnobirdsbutplentyofRedveinedDartersandSmallSkimmers.WearriveatVateraandhavealovelylunchbythe

    beachattheHotelVateraBeach.HerewehaveoneyeontheseaandmanagetopickouttheoccasionalScopolisShearwaterastheybreakthehorizoninasteeparchastheywheelwestwards.

    WeheadonouttoAgiosFokas.TheriverisveryquietbuttheheadlandholdsafewRedbackedShrikes,SpottedFlycatchers,WhinchatandNorthernWheatear.

    WegetourfirstviewofaPersianSquirrelinanolivetreeandwespendsomemoretimeenjoyingacoupleofRedveinedDarters,thistimeseeingtheredveins

    veryclearlyandStevepointingoutthebluelowerhalfoftheeyeswhichare

    diagnosticofthespecies.ArrivingbackattheminibusStevespotsajuvenilesatonthegroundinanolivegrovewhenwehearthediagnosticsoundofBee

    eaters.Weeventuallyseeonebirdsweepingacrosstheskynearbyandunfortunatelyforus,outofviewoverthetrees.Damn!

    ThewindistillstrongandwedrivethelengthoftheAmbelikoValleywithoutseeingasinglemigrant.WearriveatthePanaghiaChapelundertheeyeofMount

    OlympuswerewestakeoutaleakingpipeforKrpersNuthatchandSerin

    withoutsuccess.AbonusthoughisbrilliantviewsofoursecondPersianSquirrelwhichcomesdownthetreebythepipetodrink.

    Thewindandsungetsthebetterofusandwereturnearlyforarestandfreshen

    upbeforeheadingdownintothevillagefordinner.

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    Day 5, Monday, 21 September

    Afterbreakfastweheadoutwestforthefirsttime.ApproachingIpsilouwestop

    towatchawindhoveringShorttoedEaglebeforecomingacrossaflockofRavenscirclingtheroadoveradeaddog!WearriveatIpsilou.Thereissome

    cloudpassingoverbutmountisstillinfullsunbutthewindisstrong.TheRavensarenowoverthemounthavingadogfightwithamalePeregrine.

    WebeginouraccentandaresoonwatchingaRockNuthatchfeedingnearits

    springtimenestsiteaconicalmudstructureunderaoverhangonarockface.NearbyaSombreTitfeedsinabushbutitprovesfrustratingasitflitsaround

    anddoesntrealshowitselfproperly.

    WecontinueuptheroadandhavegoodviewsofaSparrowhawkandbriefview

    oftwoEleonorasFalconsbeforearrivingatthemonastery.WetakeaquicklookaroundthetopseeinganotherSombreTitalittlebetterthanthelastoneanda

    femaleCirlBunting.Theviewsfromthetop,likemuchoftheisland,are

    breathtaking.Perchedontopofthisconicalmountwecanseeallroundusandacrossthebarrenwestoftheisland.Afterlookinginsidethemonasterywehead

    downtheothersidebutseeverylittleonourdescent.

    AfterfailingtofindanyChukaralongthePetrifiedForestroadweheadoninto

    SigriforlunchandavisittheexcellentPetrifiedForestMuseumabargainatonly5.WethenheadbackeastwardsthroughtheMeladiaValley.Westop

    brieflyforthreeLesserKestrelsbeforereachingtheriverfordarea.Herewehavetoolittletimetoenjoytheloadsofbirdspresentifonlywehadgothere

    earlier!AftergoodviewsofaTawnyPipitbythetrackweenterthefiggroveareatofindlotsofRedbackShrikes,SpottedFlycatchers,CommonWhitethroat,acoupleofBlackcapsandthestarformany,aroundadozenLesser

    Whitethroats.Wegetgreatviewsofallthese,particularlytheLesser

    Whitethroats.TheoccasionisdampenedslightlywhentheWryneckSteveseesflyingintothefiggroveislostdeepintothetreesandwithlittletimeorchance

    oflocatingitweleave.

    ItsalongdrivebackbutStevedoesoneofthoseguidethingsandmanagesto

    spotacoupleofRedrumpedSwallowsmilesawaywhilstdriving!Westopandgetgreatviewsastheyfeedoverthevalley.

    Wearrivebackatthehotel,freshenupandaresoondowninthevillagefor

    anotherfulsomedinnerbeforeeagerlymakingforourbedslookingforwardto

    tomorrow!

    Day 6, Tuesday, 22 September

    Webreakfastedatourusualtimeof0730andthenmadeoutat0830.Wehad

    hadatipoffthattherewasaRedneckedGrebeonthenearbyseaandsureenough,withinafewminutesJoanhadspotteditandwewereenjoyingexcellent

    views!Agreatstarttotheday.

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    Red-necked Grebe, Skala Kallonis

    WebumpedalongthetrackbytheTsikniasRiver,acrossthefordandacrossthe

    fieldstowardsthesaltpans.Daphnespottedahoveringfalconsowestoppedto

    findthreesplendidRedfootFalcons,oneintheairtheothertwosatuponnearbywires.Wehadourfillandcontinuedtobestoppedbymorefalcons,this

    timethreeLesserKestrelsandasingleRedfoot.

    Wearrivedonthepansandviewsfromthesouthroad.Alltheflamingoswereup

    butwecouldntseewhatwasdisturbingthem.Stevecouldseesomebirdersintentlywatchingsomethingonthewestsidesoweshotroundtofindtheyhada

    juvenileWhitePelican!Nowthatwouldscarethelivingdaylightsoutofthe

    Flamingos!Wewatchedthedarkbirddistantlywhenittooktotheair.UpgotmostoftheFlamingosasitheadedeastandbegantocircle.Afterafewminutesit

    changedcourseanddriftedoverwestwardsrightpastusandthencontinuedtoclimbwhilstdriftingoffsouthwestallthetimeandwaslosttoview.Wow!

    WedheardtherehadbeenanotherpelicanatPolichnitospansthepreviousdaysoweheadedsouth.OuronlyhighlightonourjourneywasaHobbydogfighting

    withagroupofMediterraneanGullsoffSkalaVasilikon,soitwasprettymuchstraighttothepansandwithinminutesofarrivalDaphnehadspottedthe

    pelicaninthemiddleofthepans.Wewatchedasitseemedtocatchfishafter

    fish,swishingitsenormousbillthroughthewaterandthentossingitsneckbacktomovethefishformitssack.ItwasmuchpalerthantheKallonibirdandthe

    flesharoundtheeyewasdecidedlygrey,notpink.Itwaslookingsuspiciously

    likeaDalmatianPelicanwhenitdecidedtotakeflightbrieflyshowingthedarkflightfeatherscontrastingwiththeunderwingcoverts.OursecondWhitePelican

    oftheday!Thebirdsettlednexttooneofthebundsandwecontinuedtowatchitoffandonasweworkedourwaythroughwhatelsewaspresentmuchasthe

    otherdaywithegrets,GreyHeron,BlackStorks,plovers,Avocet,Redshank,

    Greenshank,LittleStintandRuff.WemovedonspottingfourMediterraneanGullsbeforepickingupamoultingadultLittleGullfeedinginthecornerofoneof

    thepans.AnotherhighlightwasaWeaselfoundbyJuneworkingitswayalong

    thesaltpansperimeterfence.Wegetgreatviewswhenitrunsoutontothetrack,stopsbrieflybeforeboltingbackinforcover!

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    White Pelican, Polichnitos Saltpans

    Wemoveawayfromthepansheadingnorth.NearSkamnioudiwefindarecentlybailedfieldthatiscoveredwithYellowWagtailsandNorthernWheatears

    amongstwhichwefindfourTawnyPipitsincludingoneobligingbirdclosetotheminibus.OurlaststopbeforelunchisinolivegrovesnearSkalaVasilikontolook

    forMiddleSpottedWoodpecker.Withinafewminuteswecanhearatleastone

    birdchatteringaway.AswewalkthroughthegrovesStevespotsawoodpeckerflyingintoanopenolivetreebutitvanishes.Typical.Walkingbackwehear

    anotherwoodpeckerlaughingatusandseeaBalkanWallLizardonthetrackbeforefindingadeadfoxunderoneoftheolive(ournosesspotteditfirst!).

    Tawny Pipit. Nr Skamnioudi

    AfterlunchattheAncientPyrraTavernaweheadupthroughNapiValleyand

    downPlatania.WestopwhenSteveseesaSombreTitflyacrossthetrack,butwecanrelocatethebirdbutdogetgoodviewsofRockNuthatch.Westopagaina

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    littlefurtheralongthetrackforanotherSombreTit,butagainfailtoseeitbutget

    greatviewsofafeedingWoodlark.WeparkupinordertotakeawalktolookforSombreTitwhenSteveimmediatelyspotsoneonthenearbyfence.Weseeiton

    offandonasitfeedsaroundtheoakshere.WealsoenjoyacoupleofSpottedFlycatchersflittingaroundthebottomofthetrees,huntingforinsectsforthe

    deadbranchesundermostoftheoaks.DrivingbackalongthetrackweseeafabulousCardinalbutterflybaskingatthebaseofawall.

    WedrivebackdownNapiValleyandstopatsomelargerocksbytheroadside.

    WithinsecondsStevehasfoundourquarryBlueRockthrush.Amaleisperchedatopalargerockpeeringdownatus.Wemoveuptheroadalittleand

    scopethebirdinbetterlightandfindasecondclosermaleonawall.Withthebetterlightwecanseetheyarebothclearlyblue!Weenjoythemforafew

    minutesandalsogetbriefviewsofanotherSombreTit.

    WeheadoffintothePotamiaValleywherewefind34LittleGrebesonthe

    reservoirandstandingbytheriverbridgewewitnessaflockafterflockofHouse

    Sparrowswhizzingupthevalleypastusandintotheolivegrovetoroost.ASpottedFlycatchersalliesfromthetopofanearbytree,amaleCirlBuntinganda

    coupleoffemalescomedowntoapuddleintheotherwisedryriverbedandoursecondHobbyofthedaystreaksthroughthesky.

    Withtimegettingonweheadbacktothehotel,stillmanagingtosqueezeinamalePeregrinedashingovertheChristouRiverMouthbeforearrivingbackat

    thehotelandheadingintothevillagefordinner.

    Day 7, Wednesday, 23 SeptemberForourlastfulldayweheadwestafterbreakfast.OurfirststopisbytheIoannis

    ChapeljustwestofParakila.PullingupweimmediatelyfindaSombreTit

    drinkingfromthewaterfountainbypullin!Itsonlyafewmetresawayandwegetgreatviews.WecontinuewestandthenheadsouthpastApothikatoMakara.

    Thisareaisopenanddesolate.CrestedLarksboundandthereistheoddRockNuthatchhereandthereaswedriveslowlyinoursearchforChukar.Nothing.

    Daphnethenspotsabirdonafencebelowus.ItsafabulousmaleBlackeared

    Wheatearanditperformsbrilliantlyforusasitfeedsalongthefenceline.ARedbackedShrikeandCommonWhitethroatalsoputinanappearancewhilstwe

    enjoythewheatear.AlittlefurtheralongthetrackStevespiesashrikewithwhitewingpatchesflyinguptheslopeLesserGreyShrikeheshoutsasitlands

    onafencepostandposesforustowatchit!Furtheralongthetrackwecome

    acrossapairofStonechatsandmoreRockNuthatches(theressomanyonthisisland!).Wearrivenearthesouthwardendoftheheadlandoverlookingthe

    narrowmouthoftheGulfofKalloni.Wewalkouttotheheadlanditselftoview

    acrosstotheeasternheadlandandtheislandofGarbias.TheresaflockofJackdawsnoisilywheelingaroundthesky,butapartfromafewmoreRed

    backedShrikestherearenomigrants.ArrivingbackattheminibuswehearaMiddleSpottedWoodpeckermockingusfromanearbyfiggrove.Areweever

    goingtoseethem?!

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    Rock Nuthatch, Makara

    WedrivebackuptothemainroadandcontinuewesttowardsPithariouReservoirnearEresos.ShortofthereservoirSteveyellswoodpeckers!,

    screechestoahaltandpointsatanolivetreejustmetresfromtheminibus.

    ThereinfullviewaretwoMiddleSpottedWoodpeckers!Theyhoparoundforabout30secondsbeforeflyingoff.Hooray!Wevenailedthematlast!

    DrivingupPithariouReservoirbesidesthedryriverbedthereareafewWillow

    Warblersflittingfrombushtobush.WeseeanotherStonechatandmoreRedbackedShrikesbeforewearrivebelowthedam.ThereareRedveinedDarterseverywhere.Afteralittlewhilewespytworaptorshighoveroneofthepeaks

    ShorttoedEagleandLongleggedBuzzardbuttheyaretoofarawayfordecent

    views.WeparkbythefordandgetgreatviewsofapairofCirlBuntingscomingdowntodrink.Thesubmergedfrogsinthefordoccasionallyleapuptryingto

    catchoneofthemanypairsofovipositingRedveinedDarters.Weheaduptothetopofthedamntoviewthereservoir.Wow!itsdeepexclaimsSteve.Itstoo

    deeptorevealthemuddybaratthefootofthedamandthereislittleexposed

    mudaroundtheedges.JoanspotsacoupleofLittleGrebeandWhiteWagtailbelowbeforewemakeourwayuptheeastsidetothemonastery.Weparkto

    viewthemonastery.Thewatersurfaceisempty.Steveseessomethingontheshoreline.Whatisit?Hediscernsitsafalconofsomesorthavingadrink.Itturns

    torevealawhitefaceanddistinctmoustache.Hobbyhethinksasittakestothe

    airitslargesizeandalldarkunderwingsrevealingitasanEleonorasFalcon!Itwheelsaroundrightinfrontofusandbegreatfabulousviewsforacoupleof

    minutesbeforeitheadsoffupthevalley.Wow!

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    Pithariou Monastery and reservoir

    WeheadintoSkalaEresouandhavelunchatthedelightfulSoulatsoFish

    Taverna.Itwasallniceandquiet,viewsoverthecalmseawhenthewholeplacesuddenlyfilledupwithenoughGreekstofillthreeofthelocaltavernas!The

    noiselevelsquadrupled!Thetavernaownerwasstraightonthephonetocallfor

    reinforcementstohelpcopewiththesuddenrush.WeateourlunchleisurelyandenjoyedthechatteroftheGreeksaroundus.Daphneobservedthateach

    tablehadonlybeengivenasinglemenueach,toslowthemdownwhenorderingshequipped.

    WesaidourfarewelltothetavernaownersandrelocatedtoBarAgua,themainlesbianbar,forcoffeeandicecream.Afteralittlemorerelaxationweresumed

    ourbirdingatthenearbyRiverVergias.Fromtheroadbridgeweviewedthe

    waterwhichwasteemingwithStripedneckedTerrapinsandfish.TherewereSeveralMoorhensandaKingfisherbrieflyappeared.

    WeheadedfurtherwestintotheMeladiaValley.Thisisadesolate,yetstunning,

    landscape.Awidevalleyplainsurroundedbyhillswithlittleinthewayof

    bushesjustbareground,rocksandtheubiquitouschickenwirebush.WedroveslowlyinsearchofChukaragainnothingbutsawplentyofRedbacked

    Shrikes,StonechatandSpottedFlycatchers.Stoppingforonewheatearwhich

    wasclearlymobbingasnakewithaCrestedLark,StevefoundhimselflookingatanjuvenileIsabelline!Wegotgreatviewsasthebirdkeptstandingtallerand

    openingitswingsandcallingwhilststandingonaboulder.Thesnakewasoutofviewbutthewheatearwashavingmakingitsownthreatclear.

    StillwithnoChukarweheadeduptheMeladiaRivertrackand,loandbehold,wesoonflushedacoveyof18+Chukarfromtheroadsideandgotexcellentviewsas

    somesatupandlookeddownatusfromtheridgeabove.ThiswasthelargestflockStevehadeverseenonLesvosbeatingtheprevious11whichwasonlya

    fewhundredmetresfromhere!

    WeturnaroundatafarmwhichwasfullofCornBuntingsandHouseSparrowsandheadedbackdowntothefiggrove.WithinaminuteofparkingupStevehad

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    foundaTreePipitfeedingintheshadowofoneofthefigtrees.Wealleventually

    greatviews,includingwiththescope,asthepipitcreptaroundslowlypickingattheleaflitter.

    Thetrees,astwodaysago,werebusywithwarblers,RedbackedShrikesand

    SpottedFlycatchers.NewwasasingleOlivaceousseenbrieflywhenaflockof17RockDovessweptpastus.Weenjoyedthebirdshereforafurther45minutesbeforebiddingfarewelltooneofourfavouritesitesoftheweekandbeganthe

    drivebackhome.

    Overdinnerweeachvotedforourfavouriteplaceandfavouritebirdandshared

    ourholidaymagicmoment.TheMeladiaValleygotmorevotes(DavidandSteve)pippingtheKalloniSaltpans(DaphnefortheFlamingos),PolichnitosSaltpans

    (Joan)andAncientPyrra(Junetheseasidetavernaweusedtwice).The

    flamingobeingflushedbytheWhitePelicanyesterday,withthemwheelingaroundagainstthedarkhillsideshowingofftheirshapeandcolourbrilliantly

    wasaclearfavouritewiththreeofussharingitasourmagicmoment(June,Joan

    andSteve)withDavidpickingtodaysbrilliantviewsoftheEleonorasFalconandDaphnegoingfortheamazingShorttoedEagleshefoundonoursecondday

    onlyaftershehadfirstidentifieditasagull!Nosinglebirdgottheaccoladeofbirdoftheweek.DavidplumpedfortheeverpresentRockNuthatches;Daphne

    fortodaysEleonorasFalcon;JoanforthewindhoveringShorttoedEaglefrom

    daytwo;JuneforyesterdaysPolichnitosWhitePelican;whilstStevefelttodaysTreePipitinMeladiasummedupLesvosbrilliantlyitwasfulloflittlesurprises.

    Day 8, Thursday, 24 SeptemberWereheadinghometodaysowehavealatebreakfastandafterfarewellstothehotelstaffweheadovertotheTsikniasRiverforalastlook.Neartheriver

    mouthwefindaGreyHeronfeedingintheshadeoftheTamariskbushesand

    acrossthefieldsasecondheronisperchedatopathinpine!WeheadintothefieldsandfindacutfieldteemingwithYellowWagtails.Westopforascanand

    findaCommonKestrelandthere,perchedintopofafigtree,anadultLongleggedBuzzard.Evenwithoutthescopes(whicharepackedfortheflight)wecan

    seeitspaleheadandtail.Wedecidetowaittoseeifitfliesandcontinue

    watchingthefieldinthemeantime.InadditiontothewagtailswefindsomeCornBuntings,aNorthernWheatearandaLesserGreyShrikehuntingfromoverhead

    wiresandanearbyfig.AllthewagtailssuddenlytaketotheaircallinginpanicwhenamalePeregrinesweepspastusjustlowoverthegroundandclose

    enoughforustoheretheswooshasitpasses!Itfailstocatchanythingandpulls

    upandregainsheightbeforestoopingagainatsomethinginanearbyfield.Wow!Thebuzzardmeanwhilehasntmoved.ALittleOwliscallingfromnearby

    buildingsandwegetfabulousviewsofaflybyBlackStork.Stevethennotices

    thattheLongleggedBuzzardhasgone!Hespotsitflyingalongthefieldandweallgetontoitasitrisestoperchontopofatelegraphpole.Ittakesflightagain

    andwecannowseeitsverylongwingsgivingitaveryunCommonBuzzardlikeshape.

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    TimespassingandweheadofftothesaltpanstobidfarewelltotheFlamingos.

    Theyareinoneofthemiddlepansandtheirnumbersaregreatlyreduced.

    WedriveacrosstheislandtoMytiliniandaresooncheckinginattheairport.Acoupleofhourslaterweareonourwayandinwhatseemslikenexttonotime

    wearebiddingeachafondfarewellandgoourseparatewayswiththememoriesofafabulousholidayswimmingaroundinourheads.

    BIRDS

    LittleGrebeRedneckedGrebe

    ScopolisShearwaterCormorant

    WhitePelican

    LittleEgretGreatWhiteEgret

    GreyHeron

    PurpleHeronBlackStork

    GreaterFlamingoCommonShelduck

    Shoveler

    PintailShorttoedEagle

    BootedEagleMarshHarrier

    MontagusHarrierGoshawkEurasianSparrowhawk

    CommonBuzzard

    LongleggedBuzzardLesserKestrel

    CommonKestrelRedfootedFalcon

    Hobby

    EleonorasFalconPeregrine

    ChukarMoorhen

    BlackwingedStilt

    AvocetLittleRingedPlover

    KentishPlover

    RingedPloverLittleStint

    DunlinRuff

    CommonSnipeCurlew

    CommonRedshank

    GreenshankCommonSandpiper

    MediterraneanGullBlackheadedGull

    SlenderbilledGull

    YellowleggedGullWhiskeredTern

    RockDove

    WoodpigeonCollaredDove

    TurtleDoveLittleOwl(heardonly)

    AlpineSwift

    KingfisherEuropeanBeeeater

    HoopoeMiddleSpottedWoodpecker

    CrestedLarkWoodlarkSandMartin

    BarnSwallow

    RedrumpedSwallowHouseMartin

    TawnyPipitTreePipit

    YellowWagtail

    WhiteWagtailWhinchat

    StonechatIsabellineWheatear

    NorthernWheatear

    BlackearedWheatearBlueRockthrush

    Blackbird

    CettisWarblerOlivaceousWarbler

    LesserWhitethroatCommonWhitethroat

    BlackcapChiffchaff

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    WillowWarbler

    SpottedFlycatcherSombreTit

    BlueTitGreatTit

    KrpersNutchatchWesternRockNuthatchShorttoedTreecreeper

    RedbackedShrike

    WoodchatShrikeLesserGreyShrike

    JayJackdaw

    HoodedCrow

    RavenHouseSparrow

    Chaffinch

    GreenfinchGoldfinch

    LinnetCirlBunting

    CornBunting

    103species

    BUTTERFLIESSwallowtailLargeWhite

    SouthernSmallWhite

    CloudedYellow

    SouthernWhiteAdmiralRedAdmiral

    PaintedLadyCardinal

    WoodlandGraylingEasternRockGraylingCommonMeadowBrown

    SmallCopper

    HollyBlueCommonBlue

    DRAGONFLIES

    BlueEmperor

    LesserEmperorSmallSkimmer

    RedveinedDarter

    OTHER WILDLIFE

    LesvosCicada(heard)RedFox(RIP)

    Weasel

    PersianSquirrelMarshFrog

    BalkanWallLizardGlassLizard(RIP)

    StripeneckedTerrapinEuropeanPondTerrapin

    All photos Steve Dudley