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LESVOS

21 sept. 2010 5 okt. 2010

by Huub Don

birds & butterflies

dec. 2010

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Intro

The small island of Lesvos, located in the Aegean sea not far from the Turkish coast is known

for its birdlife, especially during spring migration. Not being able to visit it during this time of

the year due to working obligations, we decided on a autumn-visit to see if the island could

match its reputation then as well. Although the distances on the island are quite limited, we

decided to stay at two different places, the well-known centrally located tourist resort Skala

Kallonis at the Gulf of Kalloni and the western town of Sigri.

Bookings

Flight, car and accomodation were booked in advance on the Internet. Some surfing aroundeasily saved us a few hundreds euros. The flight (Amsterdam-Mytilene vv.) was booked via

Arke Fly and costed 667,- (2 pers.); carhire for 15 days at Sunny Cars GMBH costed us

372,- (unlimited mileage, insurance, total damage weaver, no own risk). Accomodation at

Kalloni was booked via Straus Holidays Roermond (www.straus.nl). A 2 pers. appartment

with breakfast for the first week costed us 224,50. The appartment at Sigri was also booked

via Internet (http://www.sigri-lesvos.co.uk/locationevan.html) and costed 280 for seven

nights (no breakfast). Completed with a travelinsurance and a parkingspace near Schiphol

airport during our stay abroad, our total pre-holiday costs were less than 1700,- for two

persons. The costs of living on the island are quite up to West-European standard (even a little

higher, I would say) and cooking at home proved no great saving compared to eating out.

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Climate and surroundings

The climate in Septembre is still very nice with daytime temperatures around 25 degrees

Celcius or higher and virtually no rain. Occassionally we had rather forceful winds from the

north, but these by no means limited our activities. All roads were easy accessible and petrolstations were never far away. Cash machines arent always available (eg. Sigri) and

creditcards are not in common use, but with most costs prepaid, this didnt deliver any

problems for us either. Some birding spots are near army camps (eg. Krpers Nuthatch),

which we avoided during army exercise. At midday we ceased birding activities and went for

a cool dive in the swimming pool next to our appartment.

Literature

For preparation and use in the field we bought Steve DudleysBirdwatching Guide to Lesvos

(2009). Dudley is the administrative clerk of the British Ornithologists Union and in his spare

time guides birdingtours across the island and maintains a website www.lesvosbirding.com .

On the backcover we read that this guide sets new standards in where to watch birdguides.

Regrettably the booklet (softcover) began to desintegrate within two days of use, but I am

sure this wasnt the standard they referred to....

The maps are quit clear, but produce no more detail than the Freytag & Berndt map (1:75000)

of Lesvos, so you still have to refer to the text. In a separate section, thirty-two pages are

filled with colour photographs of the author, which is a little overdone and doesnt produce

much additional info. Surely a bit humorous are the travel & what-to-take tips, such as dont

forget your binoculars, bring your camera along (to photograph the stunning scenery), dont

trample on flowers, dont block road entrances, etc.. Okay....

When it comes to birds and locations where to find them, qualifications as superb,

stunning, excellent, etc. are scattered across the pages, but it is important to keep in mind

that, for the major part , this refers to the situation in spring, when the rivers and pools on

Lesbos are filled with fresh water and attract lots of migrants from Africa.

Autumn migration, as we experienced it, is far more quiet and unobtrusive and probably as

good as any Aegean island.

In the absence of (exciting) birds we found butterflies to be a good alternative.

There is a list of butterflies in Dudleys book, but compiled from only one general reference

and this doesnt seem complete. For identification we used Tristan Lafranchis PapillonsdEurope (Dutch translation, 2009) and back at home www.eurobutterflies.com by Matt

Rowling.

Itinerary

We visited several birding spots more than once to get a good impression.

The Kalloni saltpans are not to be missed and proved better than the pans at Polichnitos.

The Tsiknias and Cristou River, here conveniently called East resp.West River (according

to their location near Skala Kallonis) were also checked regularly. Achladeri forest is very

quiet this time of year, so Krpers Nuthatch was not so easy to find....

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21-9: arrival, Skala Kallonis, West river.

22-9: Skala Kallonis, East River, saltpans, Potamia reservoir & Potamia Valley

23-9: Skala Kallonis, East River, Achladeri, Polichnitos saltpans, Vasilika woods

24-9: West River, Metachi mountains, Metachi Lake, Kalloni saltpans

25-9: Kavaki headlands, Petra reservoir, Molivis Castle, Efthalou, Napi Valley

26-9: East River, Achladeri, Vouvaris River, Metochi chapel27-9: Napi Valley, Kremastes Bridge, Mandamados, Kapi-Stipsi road, Kalloni saltpans

28-9: Skala Eresou, Pithariou Monastery, Sigri castle, Sigri

29-9: Ipsilou Monastery, Perivolis Monastery, Lardia Valley, Eresos, Sigri

30-9: Faneromeni Fields, Petrified Forest park, Ipsilou Monastery

1-10: Meladia Valley, Mesotopos River, Skala Kalloni fields & saltpans

2-10: Ipsilou Monastery, Gavathas, North Coast, Limonos Monastery, Skala Kallonis

3-10: Vouvaris River, Skala Vasilikon, Polichnitos saltpans, Almeropotamos River

4-10: Potamia Valley, East & West River, Kalloni saltpans

5-10: Skala Kallonis fields, departure.

Summary

In two weeks of birding we drove approximately 1100 kilometers and saw 105 birdspecies.

Migrants as Red-backed Shrike, Yellow Wagtails, Spotted Flycatcher and Willow Warblers

were very common throughout. Small numbers of waders (excl. Avocet, with 300+ ind.) were

present at the saltpans at Kalloni and Polichnitos. No significant migration of large raptors or

storks was witnessed. Masked Shrike, Lesser Grey Shrike, White Pelican, Little Gull and

Red-necked Phalarope were among the scarcer species we saw (each 1 ind.). Middle Spotted

Woodpeckers were common but often hard to see! Other common residents included Short-

toed Eagle, Rock Nuthatch, Blue Rock Thrush & Sombre Tit. Most summer birds have left

Lesvos by the end of Septembre, so the only real Lesvos speciality we found was Krpers

Nuthatch at Vouvaris River Bay. A good sample of post-summer butterflies was seen,

especially skippers, browns and graylings, although not always easy to identify!

We encountered few birders on the island, most of them around Kalloni saltpans.

Daily accounts

21-9: arrival, Skala Kallonis, West river.

Our arrival at Imerti appartments at Skala Kallonis was very welcoming.

A nice appartment on the first floor with a good look on the surrounding landscape and a

swimmingpool nearby. On the fields behind the appartment: 3 juv. Red-backed Shrike, 2Whinchats, 1 Spotted Flycatcher, House Sparrow, 25 Collared Doves.

In the afternoon we walk to the West River by the beach.

The famous Skala Kallonis pool is dry and no birdlife here.

Along the way we had several Swallowtails (Papilio machaon)and aRed-veined Darter

(Sympetrum fonscolombii). At the West River (Cristou River) we have 3 circling Black

Storks, 1 Great White Egret, several Little Egrets, a winterplumage Black Tern, Sparrowhawk

and singing Crested Larks. Near the beach Cormorant.

22-9: Skala Kallonis, East River, saltpans, Potamia reservoir & Potamia Valley

A nice sunny day but with a strong wind coming from the north.

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After breakfast we leave for the East River and the Kalloni saltpans.

Near the rivermouth we find two Black Storks, Little Egrets, Grey Heron, Cormorant, Shag,

Kingfisher, Yellow-legged Gulls, Greenshank, Redshank, Eurasian Curlew, Grey Wagtail,

Cettis Warbler. On the fields a group of50 Linnets, Whinchat, Crested Larks, House

Sparrows, etc.. Where the road crossed the river (ford) we have Whitethroat, Little Ringed

Plover, Yellow Wagtail (flava), Spotted Flycatcherand an overflying Peregrine, which due toits small size and light-creamy underparts with black wingtips resembles Barbary Falcon (F.

pelegrinoides), but most likely is a male brookei. We also see our firstHummingbird

Hawkmoth (Macroglossum stellatarum).

Near the coast we see a group of43 Night Herons fly over southeast. In the fields we find 6

Northern Wheatears, 55 Hooded Crows, Yellow Wagtails, Grey Wagtail, juv. Red-backed

Shrike.

Kalloni saltpans: From the northern watchtower we see 870 Greater Flamingo, 338 Avocets,

6 Redshanks, 5 Little Ringed Plovers, 10 Little Egrets, 1 Great White Egret, Cormorant, 1

overflying Osprey and 1 hunting Eleonoras Falcon.On the south border, just past the factory entrance we find afirst-winter Lesser Grey Shrike, 2

juv. Red-backed Shrike, 2 Northern Wheatears. Past the bridge we make a short walk towards

the factory fences where we have 10 Black Storks, 6 Great White Egrets, 10 Redshanks and a

Tawny Pipitflying over.

Back at our appartment at Skala Kallonis we enjoy lunch on our balcony, when we see a

Beech Marten (Martes fiona) come to drink at our swimming pool (see photo).

When we manage to get close during a swimming break the following day we observe it is a

young animal in a very weakened condition. It probably didnt survive the week.

drinking Beech Marten at the pool

In the afternoon we visit Potamia reservoir, just a few kilometers west from Skala Kallonis.

Violet Dropwings (Trithemis annulata) fly in numbers and show their beautiful purple

abdomen. Also Persian Meadow Brown (Maniola telmessia) and Small Copper (Lycaena

phlaeas) are present here. On the reservoir rests a group of53 Little Grebes.

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We hearRaven across the mountains.

Violet Dropwing common at Potamia Reservoir

At Potamia Valley2 adult Short-toed Eagle come calling over and tens ofjuvenile Red-

backed Shrikes are insect hunting along a freshly mown grasland, joined byjuvenile Willow

Warblers, Spotted Flycatchers, Yellow Wagtails and Yellowhammer.

On a rocky outcropBlue Rocktrush is singing.

When we pass a bridge many terrapins (stripe-necked/european pond?) lie in the water

beneath. We encounter a Grey Wagtail and our first Clouded Yellow (Colias croceus) along

the path.

When we drive back to the main road a Black Stork passes over and in an olive-tree plantation

we discover a few first-year Orphean Warblers, along with the commonMiddle Spotted

Woodpecker(quite noisy but hard to see!),Blackcap, Willow Warbler and Spotted Flycatcher.

When we approach Skala Kallonis against dark19 Night Herons hesitate to land in a olive-

tree plantation, but at the last moment seem to choose the hotel neighbourhood.

ManyHooded Crows fly to their roost.

23-9: Skala Kallonis, East River, Achladeri, Skala Polichnitos, Vasilika woods

Again a nice sunny day, but with a hard wind from the north.

We leave for the Achladeri woods, but visit the East River mouth first.

East River & surroundings: 3 Black Storks, 2 Little Egrets, Yellow-legged Gull,

Greenshank, Whinchat, 3 Corn Bunting, 100+ Yellow Wagtails and a few Grey on a freshly

mown grassland attract a 2 cj. male Peregrine, that rushes by.

Alykes wetland: Grey Heron.

Messa: possibleEleonoras Falcon above forest.

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Achladeri: In the bay two Sandwich Tern are fishing and we find two Common Sandpiper

along the coastline.

Achladeri forest is occupied by an army exercise so we move on to Skala Polichnitos.

At Skala Vassilikons harbour we count 16 Mediterrenean Gulls and observe a Short-toed

Eagle inland.

Further south we have our first Long-legged Buzzard (juv.), a Sparrowhawkand in an olive-

tree plantationMiddle Spotted Woodpecker.

At Skala Polichnitos saltpans a hard wind is blowing from the north and 23 Greater

Flamingos undertake several attempts to fly north but the wind is too strong and they land on

the sea. There is some migration ofBarn Swallow and on the saltpans we see: 3 Spoonbills, 10

Little Egrets, 3 Great White Egrets, a Little Ringed Plover, 1 Greenshank, 3 Redshanks, 1

White-winged Tern, Crested Larks, Yellow-legged Gulls, a Dunlin, Grey Heron and Black-headed Gulls.

On the road back to Kalloni we take a walk in the Pine Forest near Vasilika.

In these dry woods Woodland Graylings (Hipparchia fagi) are common and we observe the

strange courtship-ritual in which the male flaps his wings with his abdomen straight up.

With a complete dark-grey no-contrast underwing we also suspectEastern Rock Grayling

(Hipparchia syriaca) in these woods but are by no means sure....

At a woodland edge we encounter several Southern Darters (Sympetrum meridionale).

AMiddle-spotted Woodpeckerstays out-of-sight.

In the afternoon it is quiet in Achladeri forest, but we manage to see a Short-toed Tree-

creeper, a Great Tit, Woodland Graylings (Hipparchia fagi) and Brown Argus (Aricia

agestis).

At Vouvaris River an Osprey has its perch in a dead tree.

24-9: West River, Metachi mountains, Metachi Lake, Kalloni saltpans

We start our birding day with a stop at the Cristou (West) river with aBlack Tern inwinterplumage.

At the roadjunction towards Potamia Valley, we follow the signs for Metochi chapel.

Here we park our car and stroll for a short walk into the mountains.

Metochi mountains: Common Buzzard, Kestrel, Short-toed Eagle, Middle-spotted

Woodpecker, several singing Rock Nuthatch (an intermediate form between western and

eastern subspecies, with extensive buff colouring on the flanks), Jay (black-crowned

subspecies atricapillus), Blue Rock Trush, Little Owl, Stonechat, Blackbird, House Sparrow.

A real identification puzzle forms a marbled skipper-spec. on a sunny rocky slope, which has

characteristics of a False Marbled Skipper (Carcharodus stauderi). This species is very

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local on some East Aegean islands, but not mentioned for Lesvos so far (Lafranchis, 2009).

However we fail to exclude Oriental Marbled Skipper (C. orientalis) with certainty.

False Marbled Skipper (C. stauderi) or Oriental Marbled Skipper (C. orientalis) ?

Langs Short Tailed Blue (Leptotes pirithous) were abundant at some flowering bushes near

the chapel and we found one Pygmy Skipper (Gegenes pumilio) along the mountain path.

Metochi Lake:Mallard, Coot, Moorhen, Kingfisher, 5 Little Grebes, Violet Dropwings

(Trithemis annulata), Southern Darters (Sympetrum meridionale).

Metochi fields: Willow Warblers, Middle-spotted Woodpecker, 1 Tawny Pipit, Red-backed

Shrikes (all juveniles), a singing European Serin, Spotted Flycatcher, Great Tit, Painted Lady

(Cynthia cardui).

In the afternoon at the East River we have our first group ofSpanish Sparrow (5 males)

along with the usual species here, also seen yesterday.

At the Kalloni saltpans we take the southern route and walk towards the Alykes wetlands (see

Dudley, page 113).

Kalloni saltpans; southern route: 125 Greater Flamingo (only 1 juv.), 16 Great White

Egrets, 6 Spoonbills, 9 Black Storks, 26 Cormorants, 1 juv. White Pelican, 1 Shoveler, 4

Gadwall, 2 Spotted Redshank, 2 Redshank, 1 Common Sandpiper, 1 Osprey, 2 Kestrels, 3

Red-backed Shrikes (juv.), 3 Northern Wheatears, 1 Tawny Pipit.

Near the watchtower we count more than 200 Avocets, 2 Dunlins, 9 Little Stints, 1 KentishPlover, 11 Redshanks, 2 Greenshanks, 2 Spotted Redshanks, 1 Ruff and 1 singing Skylark.

25-9: Kavaki headlands, Petra reservoir, Molivis Castle, Efthalou, Napi Valley

Today we head to the northern coastline. Our first stop is the Kavaki headlands, famous

breeding spot for Rueppels Warbler. Its quiet with birds here now and we only have a

Kestrel.

At 10.15u.we arrive at the Petra reservoir (Dudley, p.124).

The reservoir surface is covered in canvas, which creates a rather artificial look.

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On the water we count 88 Little Grebes and 24 Coots, 3 Black Storks, a Grey Wagtail and lots

of Yellow-legged Gulls with some Hooded Crows rest on the banks. AnEleonoras Falcon

gives good views when flying past. Violet Dropwings (Trithemis annulata) are abundant.

At Molivos Castle we see a beautiful black-and-yellowAgame Lizardor Hardoen (Agama

stellio), Little Owl, several Barn Swallows (on migration), a group ofGoldfinches and severalSwallowtails (Papilio machaon). We enjoy the views on top of the castle with the Turkish

coast very nearby, but no storks or large raptors are passing.....

We take the northern coastal route towards Efthalou. Shortly after some hairpin curves we

make a stop and get out of the car for a little walk. We see some 20 Cardinals (Argynnis

pandora), our first Scarce Swallowtail (Iphiclides podalirius) and several Painted Ladies

(Vanessa cardiu). A distantRaven andMiddle-spotted Woodpeckerare heard.

Lunch with seaview, but little birds.

Scarce Swallowtail - Efthalou

In the afternoon we reach Napi Valley, which can be good for migrant raptors.

Some of the hills look rather overgrazed by sheep and only large thistles on dry rocksurface

are left. Here we have a female Goshawk, quarreling with two Ravens, Goldfinches chased bya Sparrowhawk, Crested LarkandBlue Rock Trush. Further south (direction Kalloni) we have

4 Short-toed Eagles, 1 Eleonoras Falcon, an alarming Sardinian Warblerand a passing

Honey Buzzard.

26-9: East River, Achladeri, Vouvaris River, Metochi chapel

This night we had rainfall and although the day begins sunny, around midday it is cloudy with

(again) a hard wind from the north.

We leave for Achladeri Forest to find Krpers Nuthatch.

East River mouth: 2 Sandwich Terns, 1 Kingfisher, 1 Cettis Warbler, 2 Greenshank.

River ford: 3 Black Storks, 2 Little Egrets

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Kalloni fields: 12 Corn Buntings, 1 Hoopoe, 2 juv. Red-backed Shrike, Whinchat, 4

overflying Whimbrels

Achladeri Forest: We park the car near a picnic site (Dudley, p. 167) and walk into the

woods. Birdlife is quiet this time of year and were lucky to see two passing dark phase

Honey Buzzards and aRaven overhead. With some difficulty we also discover Great Tit, asmall group ofWoodlarks, Short-toed Treecreeper, Blackbird, Chaffinch andMiddle-spotted

Woodpecker(only heard), but no Krpers Nuthatch.

As for the butterflies Woodland Graylings (Hipparchia fagi) and Brown Argus (Aricia

agestis) are present again and we doubt betweenHipparchia mersina andEastern Rock

Grayling (Hipparchia syriaca), although the latter fits more in habitat.

Back at the picnic site we get a very short and bad view (not much more than some undertail

coverts) of a single Krpers Nuthatch.

Vouvaris River Mouth: (see Dudley, page 166)

On this known autumn & wintersite we finally enjoy good views of 2 adult Krpers Nuthatchin the top of some old pines near the parking space. Theyre very mobile while foraging.

Also Spotted Flycatcher, Chaffinch, 2 Raven, 2 Kingfishers at the riverside, 2 Grey Herons

and a Shag near the coastline.

After our middaybreak we head to Metochi Chapel again to search for butterflies.

Again we have a few marbled skippers, we decide to be Oriental Marbled Skipper (C.

orientalis), aLong Tailed Blue (Lampides boeticus), Langs Short Tailed Blue (Leptotes

pirithous) and a probableHipparchia mersina.

On the way back to Skala Kallonis we have our first and only White Storks (2 ind.) of the trip

and at the appartment a group of16 overflying Bee-eaters.

27-9: Napi Valley, Kremastes Bridge, Mandamados, Kapi-Stipsi road, Kalloni saltpans

Today we want to travel another route just south of the Lepetimnos Mountains in the north.

Our first stop however lies in the Napi Valley near Kremastes Bridge (Dudley, p.120); turn

left on the main road just one kilometre north of Agia Paraskevi.

We make a short walk alongside the river and in the olive-tree plantation.

Kremastes Bridge: Sombre Tits, Great Tit, Blue Tit, Short-toed Eagle, Goshawk, Raven,

Middle-spotted Woodpecker, 1 Balkan Green Lizard (Lacerta trilineata), 1 ScarceSwallowtail (Iphiclides podalirius), Southern Darter (Sympetrum meridionale), several

Southern Skimmers (Orthetrum brunneum).

Along the roadside back to Napi we see Sombre Tits foraging on large thistle-seeds, our first

few Cirl Buntings, Whinchat, Greenfinch, Goldfinch, Red-backed Shrike, House Sparrow.

On the road to Mandamados we seeRaven, Rock Nuthatch, Blue Rock Trush, Crested Lark,

Goldfinch and Whinchat.

We enjoy the views along the Kapi-Stipsi road, but apart from two Short-toed Eagles we see

little birdlife.

Its shopping-time in the nice town of Petra, where we buy olive-oil, honey and luxury soap!

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We end our birding day at the Skala Kallonis fields and the Kalloni saltpans.

Skala Kallonis fields:

40 Corn Buntings, 1 Common Buzzard, 1 Black Stork, Yellow Wagtails, Grey Wagtail,

juv.Red-backed Shrike, 1 juv. Tawny Pipit.When we cross the southern road along the saltpans we see anadult male Red-backed Shrike,

our first and only adult among the many juvenile birds we already saw!

Kalloni saltpans southern road:

1 immature Little Gull, 1 winterplumage Red-necked Phalarope, 1 winterplumage White-

winged Tern, 1 Black Tern, 40 Little Stints, 4 Kentish Plovers, 2 Dunlins, several

Greenshanks, a large group ofAvocets still present, 20+ Redshanks, Greater Flamingos.

Behind us a group of80 Corn Buntings fly over the fields.

28-9: Skala Eresou, Pithariou Monastery, Sigri castle, Sigri

This day we leave for Sigri and say goodbye to our Imerti appartment at Skala Kallonis.

Its sunny and warm again.

At Skala Eresou we have our first Turtle Dove, Collared Dove, Cettis Warbler, Coot &

Moorhen and hundreds of tortoises in the river. 2 Persian Squirrels (Sciurus anomalus)

provide nice views along the road. We walk to the beach, but except for a surfing class there

is nothing to see here.

At Eresos we take the turn to the Pithariou Monastery (Dudley, p.160), a wide dirt track

with nice views over the mountains. Regrettably only a few birds are present: Stonechat, Rock

Nuthatch, Sombre Tit, Middle-spotted Woodpecker, 2 Raven, 1 Short-toed Eagle.

At arrival in Sigri we unpack at our appartment and make a short walk through town.

Just below are appartment on some yellow flowers we findMillet Skipper (Pelopidas thrax), a

rare species for Greece.

Millet Skipper Sigri

Around Sigri Castle we find some interesting butterflies also:

At least 1 Mallow Skipper (Carcharodus alceae), Pygmy Skipper (Gegenes pumilio),Mediterranean Skipper (Gegenes nostradamus), Long Tailed Blue (Lampides boeticus),

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Langs Short Tailed Blue (Leptotes pirithous), Eastern Bath White (Pontia edusa), Painted

Lady (Vanessa cardui) and Swallowtail (Papilio machaon).

29-9: Ipsilou Monastery, Perivolis Monastery, Lardia Valley, Eresos, Sigri

From our balcony at breakfast we have Blue Rock Trush, House Sparrow and Jackdaw.

Ipsilou Monastery is just a few miles outside Sigri and a famous (raptor)migration-

watchpoint (Dudley, p.147). It has nice views to the north (Turkish coast) but also inland.

We spent an hour here or so, but there is little movement in the air.

Resident birds we see include:Rock Nuthatch, 3 Cirl Bunting, Raven, 1 Sombre Tit,

Goldfinches and 2 adult Short-toed Eagle. Some migration-arrivals complement this:

Stonechat, Willow Warblers, Spotted Flycatcher, a singing Wood Lark and a passing Hobby.

2 Wall Browns (Lasiommata megera) on the rocks give nice views.

Our next stop is the Perivolis Monastery (Dudley, p. 137), just past Andissa on the road to

Skalahori and Petra. Here begins the Lardia Valley, a deep gorge which runs along the LardiaRiver. The Voulgaris River runs next to the monastery and is not completely dry like most

riverbeds on Lesbos this time of year. The pools attrack some birds, who come to drink:

Common Redstart, Orphean Warbler, Lesser Whitethroat, Blackbird, Great Tit, Blue Tit,

Blackcap, Goldfinch, Cirl Bunting, Rock Nuthatch, Middle Spotted Woodpecker, Kingfisher.

Also several Southern Darters (Sympetrum meridionale) and Southern Skimmer (Orthetrum

brunneum) skim the watersurface.

Lardia Valley

The gorge along the road gives nice scenery.

We make a stop and hear/see:Middle Spotted Woodpecker, Blue Rock Trush, Cirl Bunting,

Rock Nuthatch, Blackbird. A grey Hipparchia-butterfly we identify as a Freyers Grayling

(Hipparchia fatua).

Freyers Grayling at Lardia Valley

We drive back to Sigri via the Eresos-Sigri road (Dudley, p.157).

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We stop here to walk for an hour or so.

Meladia River:2 Green Sandpiper,Cettis Warbler, Barn Swallow, White Wagtail, Wood

Lark, Crested Lark, Red-backed Shrike.

We drive a few kilometres inland to a farmers settlement, where we make another walk intothe hills. We discover no new species, but hear Chukar.

From Eresos we drive further east. Southwest of Mesotopos is another excellent autumn

birding spot according to Dudley (p.145). Unfortunately we only seeMiddle Spotted

Woodpeckerand Moorhen. Just past Mesotopos we find our firstMasked Shrike (juv.) in an

olive-tree plantation.

Getting a bit disappointed by so few birds we drive to Skala Kallonis and its saltpans.

Skala Kallonis, East River:

1 Great White Egret, 3 Black Stork, 5 Little White Egret, first winter Little Gull.Skala Kallonis, fields:

Long-legged Buzzard (juv.), Red-backed Shrike, Corn Bunting.

Kalloni saltpans:

9 Spoonbills, 1 Osprey, Greater Flamingos, 150+ Avocet, 17 Redshank.

2-10: Ipsilou Monastery, Gavathas, North Coast, Limonos Monastery, Skala Kallonis

This day we decide to return to our first base at Skala Kallonis.

We stop for an hour at Ipsilou Monastery and watch 3 Sparrowhawks arrive and argue with

the localRavens, 4 Sombre Tit, 2 male Cirl Bunting singing, Middle Spotted Woodpecker,

Rock Nuthatch, Goldfinches, Jay, Hooded Crow, etc..

Even the 2 Wall Browns (Lasiommata megera) are still present.

At Andissaa female Marsh Harrierflies over.

Here we take the turn to Gavathas and at a precipice we have Crag Martins, a couple

Peregrine, Blue Rock Trush and from the trees below we hear the very familiar contact call of

Middle Spotted Woodpecker.

At the coastline we find aMediterranean Skipper (Gegenes nostradamus).

Before heading into Kalloni, we take a short tour at the Limonos Monastery.

Here we hear a Chukarcalling in the fields.

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Mediterranean Skipper

Skala Kallonis East River: 9 Little Egrets, 2 Great White Egrets, Kingfisher

Skala Kallonis fields:Marsh Harrier, Common Buzzard, 5 Corn Bunting

Kalloni saltpans: 1 Common Sandpiper, 1 female Ruff,2 Golden Plovers, 1 Tawny Pipit, 2

Curlews, 3 Little Ringed Plovers.

3-10: Vouvaris River, Skala Vasilikon, Polichnitos saltpans, Almeropotamos River

This day we pay a second visit to the Polichnitos saltpans.We first stop at Vouvaris Bay, but the Krpers Nuthatches have gone.

At Skala Vassilikons Harbour we count 13 Mediterranean Gulls.

On route we have a Steppe Buzzard (vulpinus).

At Skala Polichnitos saltpans we count 17 Redshank, 2 Greenshank, 7 Dunlin, 1 Little Stint,

3 Black Storks, 25 Kentish Plovers, 1 Kingfisher, 13 Shags, Cormorant.

On route to Vrisa a deadRed Fox (Vulpes vulpes) lies beside the road.

Just east of Vatera we visit Almeropotamos River (Dudley, p.174).

Here we have a pair ofLong-legged Buzzard flying high in the sky, but few birds otherwise.

Some butterflies found here:Eastern Bath White (Pontia edusa), Persian Meadow Brown(Maniola telmessia), Painted Lady (Vanessa cardui), Swallowtail (Papilion machaon), Red

Admiral (Vanessa atalanta).

On our route back to through the mountains (Kato Stavros, Ambeliko) we enjoy nice views.

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