Install Guide for HHO KITS - AutoHydrogenauto-hydrogen.com/files/AutoHydrogen-Install-Guide-for-HHO-Kits.pdf · Install Guide for HHO KITS April 26, 2016 Page 4 of 23 2 PARTS LIST

AUTOHYDROGEN USA | 909 BRANDERMILL CV, SALT LAKE CITY UTAH 84123

Install Guide for HHO Kits MODELS: FK123/11, FK123/16, FK123/21, FK123/26, FK123/31

Install Guide for HHO KITS April 26, 2016

Page 1 of 23

CONTENTS

1 Vehicle Compatibility ............................................................................................................................ 3

2 Parts List ................................................................................................................................................ 4

3 HHO Kit Connectivity to the Engine ...................................................................................................... 6

3.1 Physical location of HHO Components ......................................................................................... 7

3.1.1 Location Requirements ......................................................................................................... 7

3.1.2 Attachment Methods ............................................................................................................ 8

3.2 HHO Hose Connections ................................................................................................................. 8

3.2.1 Air Filter Box Connection ...................................................................................................... 9

4 HHO Electrical Connections - AutoHydrogen 60A PWM .................................................................... 10

4.1 KEY SWITCH / IGNITION IN: ......................................................................................................... 11

4.2 GROUND IN WIRE: ...................................................................................................................... 11

4.3 LIQUID CRISTAL DISPLAY IN: ....................................................................................................... 11

4.4 PROBES - FLUID LEVEL SENSOR: .................................................................................................. 11

4.5 AUTO REFIL PUMP IN: ................................................................................................................. 12

4.6 CIRCULATING PUMP IN: .............................................................................................................. 12

4.7 POWER OUT 12-14.5V, TO HHO CELL: ........................................................................................ 13

4.8 12-14.5V POWER IN, FROM CAR BATTERY: ................................................................................ 16

5 Things you should know about your alternator .................................................................................. 17

6 The Theory, auto-hydrogen’s PWM, working principle ...................................................................... 18

7 Thermal Runaway ............................................................................................................................... 18

8 Operating via In Cabin LCD Controller ................................................................................................ 19

8.1 Liquid Crystal Display Functions .................................................................................................. 19

9 Troubleshooting .................................................................................................................................. 21

10 Maintenance ................................................................................................................................... 22

10.1 Regular Inspection ...................................................................................................................... 22

10.1.1 Bubbler Tank ....................................................................................................................... 22

10.1.2 Electrolyte Tank .................................................................................................................. 22

10.2 Yearly Inspection ......................................................................................................................... 22

10.3 Mixing Electrolyte (KOH or NaOH only) ...................................................................................... 22

10.4 How Much Electrolyte and What Concentration do I need? ...................................................... 23


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FIGURES

Figure 1. HHO Kit Components. .................................................................................................................... 4

Figure 2. Engine connectivity for all HHO components, including wiring, water and gas flow, and hose

connections. .................................................................................................................................................. 6

Figure 3. PWM Electrical Connections with Electrolyte Level Probes. ....................................................... 10

Figure 4. HHO Cell Showing Electrical Connections. ................................................................................... 13

Figure 5. In Cabin LDC Control and Status Functions. ................................................................................. 19


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1 VEHICLE COMPATIBILITY

FK123/11 All 1920-2016 model year passenger cars to medium-duty trucks equipped with

gasoline or diesel engine size 0.2 to 4.0 liter displacement.

(2 lpm @20 Amps max)

FK123/16 1920-2016 model year passenger cars to medium-duty trucks equipped with


(2.5 lpm @25 Amps max)



(3 lpm @30 Amps max)








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2 PARTS LIST

As shown in the figure below; the HHO kit is comprised of an in cabin controller with LCD display for

controlling the system and monitoring status, a Pulse Width Modulator (PWM) for delivering electrical

power to the hydrogen generator dry cell, a circulating pump that insures gas exits the cell immediately

and electrolyte is replenished, a tandem electrolyte and bubbler tank combo to store electrolyte and

remove chemical and steam from the HHO gas, electrical wiring, circuit breaker, and necessary tubing to

route water and HHO gas.

Figure 1. HHO Kit Components.


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Table 1. HHO Kit Contents.

Kit FK123/11 FK123/16 FK123/21 FK123/26 FK123/31

HHO dry cell Generator

(w/ 316L stainless steel

plates) w/ mounting

bracket

11 Plate

(2 lpm

@20

Amps)

16 Plate

(2.5 lpm

@25

Amps)

21 Plate

(3 lpm

@30

Amps)

26 Plate

(3.5 lpm

@35

Amps)

31 Plate

(4 lpm

@40

Amps)

HHO Specific PWM 60

Amps Constant Current

(Pulse Width

Modulator) with in car

LCD Display

Yes yes yes yes yes

HHO Tandem

Electrolyte Tank (1

liter) & Bubbler Tank

(1 liter) w/ mounting

bracket

Yes yes yes yes yes

4 Pronged Probe for

Fluid Level Sensing Yes yes yes yes yes

Circulating pump 4

L/min, 12V Yes yes yes yes yes

Circuit Breaker 30 amp 30 amp 40 amp 40 amp 40 amp

Power cables (heavy

gauge 8 AGW multi

stranded coper wire)

8 AGW 8 AGW 8 AGW 8 AGW 8 AGW

Connecting hoses

(braided nylon

reinforced food grade

tubing)

3/8” ID 3/8” ID 3/8” ID 3/8” ID 3/8” ID

Key Switch Cable


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3 HHO KIT CONNECTIVITY TO THE ENGINE

Before beginning the actual installation process we recommend you read the installation guide

completely so you have a complete understanding of how to properly install the equipment.

The picture below shows how the kit is connected into the engine, shows the direction of water and gas

flow, and also shows the electrical connections.

Figure 2. Engine connectivity for all HHO components, including wiring, water and gas flow, and hose connections.

What you see in the above diagram is a HHO dry cell connected to the electrolyte tank which has electrolyte filled

just past half way and re-circulates it through the HHO cell from the tank as shown by the red and green arrows. The

top half of the electrolyte tank is where the HHO (hydroxy) Gas will accumulate before it moves to the bubbler.


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The purpose of the bubbler tank is 2 fold...

(1) It filters the HHO gas coming from the top of the electrolyte tank to the bottom of the bubbler tank and through

the water in the bubbler tank (bubbler tank filled with water - no more than half way). This stops harmful steam

carrying electrolyte from making its way to your engine as the water traps it in the bubbler tank. This protects your

engine.

(2) It also stops a possible backfire from your engine igniting the HHO gas while it's still in the hose that takes it to

your engine. It would then continue to the electrolyte tank but... FIRE CANNOT PASS THROUGH THE WATER

IN THE BUBBLER. Although in all our installations we have never experienced a flash back from an engine

backfire ourselves we know that it is possible. We simulate them when testing by purposely igniting the gas coming

out of the bubbler.

The explosion even with such a small amount of HHO gas (less than half a liter) is just unbelievable.

Although many people sell flash arrestors and other safety devices, all of which we tested so far have failed with the

exceptions of a SPRING LOADED PISTON VALVE placed at the top of the bubbler or a BLOW OF

MEMBRANE placed into a hole drilled in the cap of the bubbler. It is the simplest safety device, yet the most

effective. 100% guaranteed to work.

The electrical setup is very basic. Our PWM is used to transfer positive power to your HHO cell from your battery.

The PWM must have a source to trigger this and the best source is to find the wire inside your fuse box responsible

for the check engine light in your dashboard display. The source of the check engine light only gives power when

the engine has already started.

You don’t want electrolysis to start if the engine hasn't started first. When production of HHO gas begins, after the

engine has started, all the HHO gas produced will be consumed immediately keeping your unit safe. This is called a

HHO on demand system which means no Hydroxy gas is stored and all Hydroxy gas produced is consumed

immediately.

3.1 PHYSICAL LOCATION OF HHO COMPONENTS

Our HHO kits have a recirculation pump that guarantees electrolyte properly circulates regardless of the relative

positioning of the HHO dry cell and the electrolyte tank, so unlike other kits the electrolyte tank does not have to be

20 cm above the cell.

3.1.1 Location Requirements

1) HHO Generator - Locate the HHO dry cell so that you can easily see the water flowing through it, and it

can generate a lot of heat so don’t locate it next to other hot components. Locate the cell so you can easily

inspect the electrical connections and make sure the cell plates are not making electrical contact to your

vehicle. For highest gas production the best orientation for the cell is vertical instead of horizontal.

2) Tandem Tanks - Locate the Tandem tanks so you can easily fill them and also see their water level, and

locate them with enough headroom for the water level sensor probe and an optional pressure relief popper.

3) Circulation Pump – The circulation pump will not self-prime but needs to be fed fluid. It pumps from the

electrolyte tank and can be located anywhere between the tank and the HHO cell. We have found that the


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most convenient location is just under the electrolyte tank, this insures that if you can see water in the tank

the pump is primed.

4) PWM - We highly recommend locating the PWM close to the battery to reduce voltage loss across the

wiring (this will help keep the high current wires cool). Keep the wire lengths under 24 inches if possible.

Depending on the current draw the PWM will heat up. To help it stay cool and last longer please avoid

locating in near other hot components, and if you can attach it to the vehicle chassis or frame to help

dissipate its heat.

3.1.2 Attachment Methods

All components are to be located in the engine compartment.

1) HHO Generator – A bracket is provided to secure the

dry cell generator to the chassis of your vehicle. Attach

the bracket securely using the bracket’s hole pattern if

possible. Locate the cell so you can easily inspect the

electrical connections and make sure the cell plates are

not making electrical contact to your vehicle.

2) Tandem Tanks - You can secure the tandem water tanks

to the chassis of your vehicle using the bracket

provided. Just make sure you securely bolt or rivet the

bracket in place using the holes provided.

3) Circulating Pump – The pump is so small it can usually

just hang inline and does not need to be secured to the

chassis.

4) PWM – The PWM can be secured to the chassis using

bolts or rivets or it can be strapped in providing more

flexible access. We recommend bolting it in which will

also provide a good chassis ground.

3.2 HHO HOSE CONNECTIONS Ample hose length is provided for most well planned

installations. Carefully plan your installation and then cut

your hose to length as you make each connection. All hose connections are tight fit press on type and do

not require hose clamps, and if seated fully will not leak. In fact they can be difficult to pull off and if you

want to remove them you will have to twist them while pulling hard.


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After you have routed your HHO hoses you should secure them with zip ties, this will insure that they

stay in place through the life of your system.

3.2.1 Air Filter Box Connection

HHO gas produced by the system is injected to the air filter box so it will

mix with the incoming fresh air as it travels to the engine. Do not feed

HHO gas into the engine after the air filter because the air filter provides a

safety barrier that protects your engine from chemical, moisture, and HHO

during startup.

We recommend drilling a hole in your air filter box below the level of the

air filter and threading a hose fitting for the hose connection. You can also

simply feed the hose straight into the box and seal the egress with

silicone.


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Figure 3. PWM Electrical Connections with Electrolyte Level Probes.

4 HHO ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS - AUTOHYDROGEN 60A PWM

All electrical connections for the HHO system are managed by the PWM and each connection is

discussed in this section.

* FIND A LOCATION FOR THE PWM AS CLOSE TO THE BATTERY AS POSSIBLE

The PWM has 4 pins for power IN & 4 pins for power OUT as opposed to 2 IN 2 OUT of the older

model, and wiring is essentially the same as the previous models.


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4.1 KEY SWITCH / IGNITION IN: a) Single wire + positive (1.5 mm²) should be connected to terminal (1) from ignition source.

This is the correct method of connecting the board for long term/everyday use.

*(Ignition source = Check engine light (the best source we’ve found). There are other sources.

b) If you use a power supply, connect to (+positive) power from power supply. You will need 12.8 volts

for the PWM to switch on. Under 12.8V PWM goes into auto shut down mode to protect car battery.

*HHO system must only work when engine is running.

**THIS IS CALLED HHO ON DEMAND.

***It must not work when the key is turned to ignition and the engine is off.

4.2 GROUND IN WIRE: Single wire (1.5 mm²) to terminal (2) and the other end fastened to chassis.

4.3 LIQUID CRISTAL DISPLAY IN: LCD is connected to these 2 pins, terminals (3&4), there is no polarity.

4.4 PROBES - FLUID LEVEL SENSOR IN: Set of four Stainless steel probes should be connected to this connector terminal (pins 5, 6, 7 & 8) in

order for the Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) to show fluid levels and for the automatic refill pump to work.

This is also needed for automatic/emergency shutdown to work, when the electrolyte tank is empty or

over full.

Connect from left to right BLACK/RED/WHITE/GREEN wires. Check wiring diagram.


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4.5 AUTO REFIL PUMP: This is to connect an optional Tank with a pump (similar to windshield washer Tanks). Its purpose is to

automatically refill your "Electrolyte tank" with distilled water. The tank with pump should be connected

to this connector, (+) Pos left terminal (9) and (-) Neg right terminal (10). This is PWM controlled also

and supports Max 12V - 1.5 Amp pump without cooling of the Power MOSFET.

CAUTION: BE CAREFUL NOT TO REVERSE POLARITY

*Non return valve (check Valve) must be used between refill tank and electrolyte tank so that

electrolyte is not siphoned back into refill tank from the electrolyte tank.

4.6 CIRCULATING PUMP: This is to connect a Circulating pump. Its purpose is to keep your HHO cell full of electrolyte at all times

increasing gas output and helping it run cooler. Eliminates the need to install the tank 20cm above the

height of HHO Cell. (Useful when you don't have much room in the engine bay) The pump should be

connected to this connector, (+) Pos to the left terminal (11) and (-) Neg to the right terminal (12) as

shown in diagram. This is PWM controlled also and supports Max 12V - 1.5 Amp pump without cooling

of the Power MOSFET.

CAUTION: BE CAREFUL NOT TO REVERSE POLARITY

*When installing the circulating pump please make sure that it is placed lower than the electrolyte

tank. The pumps we use are not self-priming. The advantage of this type of pump is that they do not

restrict fluid flow if they are turned off or break down.


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4.7 POWER OUT 12-14.5V, TO HHO CELL: The HHO cell has multiple electrical connection points for positive (+) and

negative (-) and all wiring sites are equivalent. You only need to connect to

one wiring site and you can use one site for both positive (+) and Negative (-)

connections or you can use different sites for positive (+) and negative (-).

The plates are stacked with (4) neutral or unwired plates separating each

positive and negative plate pair as shown in the figure below. It doesn’t

matter which power plate is used for positive (+) or negative (-) but they

need to alternate.

As shown in the figure start on one end and using the Black Power Harness

wire the outside power plate to negative (-) and then by skipping every other

power plate, wire only every other power plate to negative (-), leaving the

positive (+) power plates unwired. Then you can go back and using the Red

Power Harness connect all the unwired power plates to positive (+). The

result is the power plates alternate between positive (+) and negative (-) from

one side to the other.

Positive (+)

connection points

Positive (+)

connection points

Negative (-)

connection points

Figure 4. HHO Cell Showing Electrical Connections.


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Connect your HHO Cell Positive (+) connection points to the PWM using HEAVY DUTY WIRE (10 mm²)

and one wire per connection point.

These on the left are good. Make

sure they are the ones for 6mm wire,

the ears at the back are slightly larger

and they are the biggest available.

Squeeze them gently with pliers at

the front if they don’t seem tight

when you slide them on to the male

connector.

These on the right are no good do not use them. They will give you trouble.

These on the left are good and make a

great, tight connection.

These on the right are no good and make

a poor connection that will give you

trouble.

MAKE SURE YOUR CONNECTION IS TIGHT AND TRY TO KEEP YOUR WIRES AS SHORT AS POSSIBLE. (10

mm² HEAVY DUTY WIRE WILL HANDLE AT LEAST 50 AMPS @ 12V OVER A SHORT DISTANCE). Use a

proper crimping tool for size of wire and type connector.

*The PWM only supplies Positive (+) Power to the HHO Cell.

*Negative (-) Power to the HHO Cell is achieved by:

1. Grounding Negative terminals from the HHO Cell to the car

chassis or

2. Running cables from Negative terminals on the HHO Cell to

the vehicles Battery.


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4.8 12-14.5V POWER IN, FROM CAR BATTERY: Connect your BATTERY terminal Pos (+) to this terminal using HEAVY DUTY WIRE (10 mm²).

If you’re using over 25 amps double up on the wires.

MAKE SURE YOUR CONNECTION IS TIGHT

AND TRY TO KEEP YOUR WIRES AS SHORT

AS POSSIBLE. (10 mm² HEAVY DUTY WIRE

WILL HANDLE AT LEAST 50 AMPS @ 12V

OVER A SHORT DISTANCE). Use a proper crimping tool for size of wire

and type connector.

CAUTION: YOU MUST INSTALL A CIRCUIT BREAKER OR FUSE BETWEEN PWM

AND THE CAR BATTERY. PLACE IT AS CLOSE TO BATTERY AS POSSIBLE.

These on the left are very good. Select the

right rating for your HHO Cell.

These on the right are ok but sometimes

tend to melt or break.

# The Enclosures we use with our PWM PCB, are made of thick aluminum and act as a heat sink to

cool the POWER MOSFETS. It also grounds the board automatically to the chassis, but it is a good idea

to ground, through the ground connection (2) on the board as well. So far we have not seen the need

for a fan to be installed but it can be if needed.

# DOUBLE CHECK ALL YOUR CONNECTIONS!

IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE YOU MAY BURN OUT THE PWM BOARD

Once all HHO related electrical wiring is in place go back and secure everything using zip ties,

this includes securing the high current wiring, low current wiring, and the circulation pump.


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5 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT YOUR ALTERNATOR

1. Alternators have a maximum rating anything from 35 amps to 200+ amps.

2. This is the maximum amps your alternator can give you.

3. It means it can give you those maximum amps momentarily at about 3500 RPM.

4. Continuously it can give you at least half those amps without suffering any damage.

5. If you draw more than half the maximum rating you will eventually burn out the

regulator on the alternator and perhaps the alternator itself.

6. Commonsense says, that a 200amp alternator could give you 60%+ continuously.

7. Whereas a 35 amp alternator even 40% continuously could be a strain on it.

Knowing all of this… it is not wise purchasing a HHO system that runs at 60amps when your 1964

model VW beetle has a 35amp alternator. Balance is the key to success with HHO.


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6 THE THEORY, AUTO-HYDROGEN’S PWM, WORKING PRINCIPLE

Most car alternators put out 14 to 14.4 volts and this is controlled by the alternators

regulator.

The PWM is designed to protect your alternator and your battery.

It does this by dropping back the amperage automatically when the car puts out

lower volts.

Most cars whilst idling put out less volts and amps. Especially while idling and

under the added strain of a HHO generator, air-condition, headlights or any other

current drawing appliances fitted to your car.

When your alternator gives you less than 13.8Volts the PWM will cut back the

amperage to the HHO cell 10% for every 0.1volts under that.

13.8V or more FULL amps

13.7V 10% less amps

13.6V 20% less amps

13.5V 30% less amps

13.4V 40% less amps

13.3V 50% less amps

13.2V 60% less amps

13.1V 70% less amps

13.0V 80% less amps

12.9V 90% less amps

12.8V 100% less amps which effectively means auto shut down of HHO system.

7 THERMAL RUNAWAY

The PWM will protect your HHO Cell from “Thermal Runaway” by keeping the amps of your HHO Cell

at the figure you have PRESET. It will not pass that amount no matter how many amps are requested

by your HHO Cell while it heats up. Make sure your preset figure is within the bounds of the HHO Cells

Rating or you will burn out the HHO Cell.

The PWM effectively stops the vicious cycle of Thermal Runaway in its tracks.


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8 OPERATING VIA IN CABIN LCD CONTROLLER

Locate the LCD comtroller in the cabin of your vehicle in a convenient location that is easy to reach and

easy to see while you are driving. The in cabin controller provides all the control and status need to

safely operate the HHO system.

Figure 5. In Cabin LDC Control and Status Functions.

8.1 LIQUID CRYSTAL DISPLAY FUNCTIONS 1. Pressing the on off button far left turns on or off the PWM

and HHO system

2. Using the arrows left/right adjusts the brightness of the

display.

3. Press OK button changes to maximum amperage adjustment

menu. Use the arrows left/right to set the maximum amps

you want HHO cell to draw. Then press the OK button once

more to return to the display screen.

4. The two pump icons:

a. The one on the left rotates when the circulating pump

is working.

b. The one on the right rotates when the auto refill pump

works (momentarily).


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5. Duty Cycle %:

a) Indicates how often current is applied to the HHO cell.

b) 95% current is applied most the time.

c) 5% current is applied a small percentage of the time.

d) 80% at initial startup is a good operating point that

will provide headroom for when the cell heats up.

e) note: To increase duty cycle you may need to

decrease electrolyte concentration.

6. Fluid level indicator shows the levels in your electrolyte tank,

a. 3 Bars = overfull, Have a look and make sure there is enough room for HHO gas

at the top off the tank. If not remove some liquid

with a syringe. Check that electrolyte doesn’t spill

over into the bubbler.

b. 2 Bars = full, this is the correct indication and

should show most of the time.

c. 1 Bar = low, auto refill pump comes on

automatically to add distilled water from reserve

tank.

d. Zero Bars = empty. You should not let this happen.

Add water before this happens.

e. EMPTY means, auto shutdown of your HHO system and PWM to protect it from

damage / burnout.


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9 TROUBLESHOOTING

PWM will not switch on:-

Check your fuse or circuit breaker from car battery.

Make sure pins 1 and 2 are connected.

Make sure you have a minimum of 12.8 volts going to PWM or it will be in auto

shutdown mode.

If not using fluid level sensor check that you have bridged pins (5 & 7) see diagram in

section 4.

If you are using fluid level sensor check that electrolyte is at the correct levels. Too low

means auto shut down of HHO system.

PWM shows less than 13.8Volts while driving:-

See an auto electrician, your regulator may be malfunctioning.

Your alternator is too small for the size HHO cell you are running.

There are volts but no amps:-

Check hoses for blockages or kinks.

Electrolyte is not getting to your cell make sure you can see electrolyte in the HHO Cell.

Amps too low:-

You may need a higher concentration of electrolyte.

You may have set the amperage too low from the display.

Wires from battery to PWM or from PWM to HHO Cell are hot to the touch:-

Use thicker wire or double up using the other connectors as well.

Doubling wires is good idea in any case.

Fuel economy is not as good as expected:-

Make sure your ECU mitigation devices are working correctly

If you are using the Volo HHO chip make sure you have followed the directions for

installing and training the chip, and leave the HHO gas production level constant

throughout training and don’t change it after training. Constant production is required

because the chip selects fuel maps based on readings coming from the engine and they

are dependent on the HHO gas level.

We recommend setting the PWM to generate no more than 0.5 lpm for each liter of

engine displacement. The most economical ratio may vary vehicle to vehicle.


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10 MAINTENANCE

10.1 REGULAR INSPECTION

10.1.1 Bubbler Tank

Monitor water level in the bubbler tank. You just need to insure that there is water in the bubbler so

bubbling actually occurs. You always want to maintain a water barrier between the HHO gas in the

bubbler and the gas coming in from the electrolyte tank. The steam coming in with the HHO gas will

usually maintain a water level, but if you are in a dry climate and the water in the bubbler dries up you

should fill it half full with distilled water. Running dry is dangerous because the bubbler blocks a

flashback if it ever occurs.

10.1.2 Electrolyte Tank

Electrolyte in the electrolyte tank will usually last for years but you need to continually refill the water

level using distilled water as it is consumed. HHO is generated by converting distilled water into

hydrogen and oxygen so this is the desired process. All you need to do is watch the water levels on your

in cabin LCD display and refill the tank when needed. If you forget it is safe and the PWM will

automatically shut down the HHO system. You will want to consider topping this off each time you

refuel so always carry a bottle of distilled water with you.

10.2 YEARLY INSPECTION Yearly you should inspect all hose and electrical connections.

Inspect the electrical connections to make sure wires are not loose, burning, and all wiring is safely tied

down. Replace all damaged wires as needed.

Inspect all hoses to insure that there are no leaks. If you find leaks just replace with new hose.

It is also a good idea to consider draining the fluid form the system each year and rebuilding it with

known electrolyte concentration. This is not necessary but over time the electrolyte concentration may

decrease, and if you are not able to get the current draw and HHO production you desire you may need

to increase the concentration.

In some extremely cold climates you may want to either winterize your system by draining it, or you can

refill with an extra high electrolyte concentration that has a much lower freeze point.

10.3 MIXING ELECTROLYTE (KOH OR NAOH ONLY) The only electrolytes that are approved for use with this HHO cell are potassium hydroxide

(KOH) or sodium hydroxide (NaOH).

ALWAYS PRE-MIX THE ELECTROLYTE: "First fill your OPEN container with the amount

of water desired and then add electrolyte slowly whilst stirring gently"...........


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"If you do it the other way around, (KOH or NaOH) first and then water you will get a VERY VIOLENT

REACTION and possibly sustain chemical burns to your person."

10.4 HOW MUCH ELECTROLYTE AND WHAT CONCENTRATION DO I NEED? You will only need 1L of electrolyte water to initialize any of our Hexagon Dry Cells including

filling our electrolyte tank, so be prepared to store the leftover in a labeled plastic bottle that

seals well for when you may need it again.

Each Cell size has a maximum amperage rating. With an electrolyte concentration of 3% they

will go just under that rating and with 5% just over.

SO USE 5% ELECTROLYTE CONCENTRATION FOR A PWM CONTROLLED SYSTEM

AND 3% FOR A DC SYSTEM RUNNING WITHOUT A PWM.

For a 5% solution you can pour a 50g satchel of electrolyte into 950 ml's of distilled water, and

for a 3% solution you can pour a satchel into 1600 ml's of distilled water.

Fill the electrolyte in the tank no more than 60% (just past half way, 1/2 an inch above the

middle fitting) because it will expand when hot and there will be no room for the HHO gas

produced.

Then if overtime if you can't get to the desired amperage add small amounts of additional KOH

till the amperage is reached or the cell does not respond to additional electrolyte because the

concentration is too high

The cell will usually keep responding until you reach 28% concentration.

Highly concentrated electrolyte usually means more HHO gas being produced but having too

much concentration may have Drawbacks.

For example: Severe overheating to the point that you will damage your cell or even have leaks

of caustic fluids in your engine bay.

The auto-hydrogen PWM shows the duty cycle in the lower left corner of the LCD display, how

much electrical energy is being applied. When the cell is still cold you should have the lowest

possible duty cycle with the desired amps in the display. As the cell heats up it will keep the

amps to what has been set by increasing the duty cycle.

Lowest possible duty cycle with the desired amps means the electrolyte is just right. As the cell

heats up the duty cycle will increase a little.

Documents

Install Guide for HHO KITS - AutoHydrogenauto-hydrogen.com/files/AutoHydrogen-Install-Guide-for-HHO-Kits.pdf · Install Guide for HHO KITS April 26, 2016 Page 4 of 23 2 PARTS LIST