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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR HHO FUEL SYSTEM

Thank you for purchasing from ALTERNATIVE MPG where precision engineering is our priority! We build the most advanced Hydrogen fuel products available today. You can view additional products and information at our web site, please visit:

WWW.ALTERNATIVEMPG.COM Your dry cell you have purchased is designed to be used with the air-tight reservoir tank (included) in order to operate properly. The tank is necessary because the system is self-circulating. We have included diagrams that explain further and show the operation of a dry-cell system. Accessories that we recommend for an optimum dry-cell setup include a cooler and bubbler. These are not essential to function, but are recommended to maintain the life of your system and engine. (Components are shown in the diagrams at the end of the manual marked Advanced System Setup so that you can gain an understanding of how the full system works.) You can purchase these additional components from our web site. Once you become familiar with how a dry-cell system functions, you may want to consider adding a cooler and bubbler into your system.

HOW THE SYSTEM WORKS:

(SEE FIGURE LABELED: BASIC SYSTEM SETUP) First, when we use the term HHO this refers to Hydrogen and Oxygen gas that is produced in the system. This is what is taken into the vehicles engine to increase the efficiency of the combustion. Second, the term electrolyte refers to the chemical that is mixed into the water in the system to allow Hydrogen to be produced this system requires Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) or Potassium Hydroxide (KOH). Potassium Hydroxide is better, but either will work. The solution (distilled water and electrolyte) are contained in the reservoir tank. This solution gravity feeds down and fills the fuel cell at the bottom. This is where the Hydrogen gas is produced (in the fuel cell) once voltage is applied. The Hydrogen gas rises up the return line from the cell along with some solution back to the reservoir tank. In the reservoir tank, the Hydrogen separates from the solution. The excess solution drains back down into the reservoir tank and starts the cycle over again. The Hydrogen rises to the top of the reservoir tank and exits to the engines intake. So basically: the electrolyte solution travels in a cycle through the system: starts in the reservoir tank down and reaches fuel cell rises up return line along with Hydrogen back to reservoir tank Hydrogen separates and goes to engine solution drains back into reservoir tank and starts over again.

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Now that youve got a basic understanding of how the system operates, you can plan where to install the components since every vehicles engine compartment is different, this may take some creativity. Note: all components must be installed in the engine compartment (under the hood), under no circumstances is it acceptable to install any part of the system inside the passenger compartment of the vehicle.

POSITIONING THE COMPONENTS:

1.) The reservoir tank must be the highest part of the system. The lower fitting on the

tank must be higher than the fuel cell which must be the lowest point in the system. 2.) This is a gravity feed system, and solution must be able to flow down from the tank,

to the cell. It will flow up the return line from the cell back to the tank on its own.

MOUNTING: It is important to mount all the components securely, so they do not move or vibrate. Also, they must be mounted in the coolest areas possible (away from heat sources such as the exhaust manifold). Make sure no components touch hot engine parts. When mounting the fuel cell, be careful not to let the plates (inside the cell) come in contact with any metal objects that could create a short. Try to mount the components so that you have as much access to them as possible especially the reservoir tank, since this is where you add the solution. 1.) Mount the reservoir tank with its mounting holes and self-tapping screws (supplied).

Drill small holes to thread these screws into a surface such as the firewall. 2.) Mount the cell(s) to a metal surface like the inside of frame, the firewall, the fender-

well, or the inside of the bumper with its bracket (bracket has 2 mounting holes in it.) Drill small holes and mount using the self-tapping screws provided. MAKE SURE THE CELL IS MOUNTED SECURELY. This is where the cell receives its ground connection, so make sure it makes good contact with this metal surface. Also, make sure the cell is mounted vertically with the fittings pointing upward. (The end that is marked TOP must face skyward).

CONNECTIONS:

(SEE FIGURE LABELED: BASIC SYSTEM SETUP)

1.) Connect the components to each other using the hose provided. Push the hose onto

the barb fittings and connect the components to one another as shown in the diagrams. When pushing the hose onto the barb fittings, you may want to heat the end of the hose with a hair dryer or heat gun to make the hose slide on easier. Also, use your other hand to steady and brace the fittings while attaching the hose, so as not to break them loose from their base.

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2.) Install the T-fitting and drain valve at the lowest point in the system. Before the INPUT fitting on the cell is usually the best place. It needs to be at the lowest section of hose in the system. This allows the system to be easily drained and flushed out, when the solution needs to be changed (every few months is a good idea). Make sure the drain valve plug is at a good location to be able to drain out the solution by removing the plug. (Drain valve location is shown in ADVANCED SYSTEM SETUP DIAGRAM)

3.) Drill a 7/16 hole in the vehicles intake hose or pipe (after the air filter) before it connects to the engines intake manifold, and thread in the supplied barb fitting. If the vehicle has a turbo, this fitting must be installed BEFORE THE TURBO. It is recommended to use glue (epoxy, JB Weld, or Plumbers Goop) to make sure this is an airtight connection and no gas can leak out around the fitting. It is recommended to let the glue on this fitting dry before running engine. Now connect the hose from one of the reservoir tanks upper fittings to this fitting in the intake pipe. (Shown in Diagrams). This is where the HHO enters the engine, the system creates its own pressure, and will push the HHO into the engine as it is produced. DO NOT connect this input hose to an engine vacuum source.

4.) Make sure all hose connections are tight, and the hose is not bent or kinked sharply. Double check that:

a.) The bottom fitting on the tank is connected to the INPUT fitting on the cell. b.) The OUTPUT fitting on the cell is connected to one of the upper fittings on

the tank. c.) The fitting on the other side of the tank is connected to the input fitting on the

engine.

ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS:

(SEE FIGURE LABELED: RECOMMENDED WIRING)

It is recommended that you disconnect the negative battery cable for at least 15 to 30 minutes during this part of the installation. This allows the engine computers fuel injection parameters to be reset before operating the system. Please consult your vehicle owners manual for details on disconnecting battery power, as on some newer vehicles this may cause damage to the electrical system if not done properly. Also, if the vehicles stereo is equipped with an anti-theft system, you may have to contact the dealership for details on how to reactivate the stereo after disconnecting power. The main focus is to have the system powered only when the vehicle is running. Be careful when wiring the system because if the ignition is on and the engine is off, the system will still be producing Hydrogen. You only want to run the system while the engine is running, so take care not to have the ignition turned on without starting the vehicle or the system will be powered. Or, if you can find a power source that is only on when the engine is running, this is ideal (the fuel pump circuit usually works well.)

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1.) Find a power source to tap into that is only on when the ignition is turned on, or ideally only when the engine is running. You can use something in the fuse box such as the fuel pump circuit, A/C or radio fuse, and slide a spade connector in beside the fuse.

2.) Connect a piece of 16 gauge wire from this power source to a fuse holder and a 5 or 10 amp fuse, and then connect another piece of 16 gauge wire from the other side of the fuse holder to a 40 amp relay (usually terminal 85 on the relay). Terminal numbers are shown next to the terminals on the bottom of the relay.

3.) Connect another piece of 16 gauge wire from ground to the other point on the relays coil (usually terminal 86).

4.) Now connect a stretch of 8 or 10 gauge wire from the vehicles positive battery terminal to a fuse holder and correct amp-rated fuse (if you are going to run the system around 20 amps use a 25-30 amp fuse; if you are going to run the system at higher amperage use a 30 or 40 amp fuse.)

5.) Connect from the other side of the fuse holder to the power terminal on the relay (usually terminal 30) using 8 or 10 gauge wire.

6.) Connect the switched terminal on the relay (usually terminal 87) to the positive (red) terminal on the fuel cell with another piece of 8 or 10 gauge wire and secure with the wing nut.

7.) You can install the ammeter anywhere in this section of wire so you can see how much current the system is drawing. Use the rubber-coated bracket to mount the ammeter. If the ammeter reads in the negative (-) then reverse the connections on it and it will read positive (+). This will not cause any damage, just makes it easier to read your current draw.

8.) Make sure the system is only powered when the ignition is on. If at any point you need to have the vehicle on without the system running, just remove one of the fuses.

FILLING THE SYSTEM & SETTING THE AMPERAGE:

IMPORTANT: YOU SET THE HHO OUTPUT OF THE SYSTEM BY SEEING HOW MUCH CURRENT (AMPS) THE SYSTEM IS DRAWING SHOWN IN HHO RECOMMENDATIONS at end of instructions. THE HIGHER THE AMPERAGE, THE MORE HHO IT IS PUTTING OUT. WARNING: Care must be taken when handling the electrolytes used to operate this system - namely: Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) or Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) - they are caustic chemicals and can cause burns or blindness if skin or eyes are to come in contact, and fatality if swallowed. Gloves and safety glasses must be worn at all times when exposed to these substances. Keep away from children and pets, and store in a dry, safe location. NOTE: If you live in an area where freezing temperatures are possible, you must take precautions to keep your systems contents from freezing. For the contents of the reservoir tank: mix a solution of distilled water with 30-40% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol in a separate glass container, next add 2 tablespoons of NaOH or KOH. Mix

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together thoroughly and let the solution sit uncovered for 30 minutes before adding to the reservoir tank. Then follow the instructions on setting the systems output and amperage draw, and add more electrolyte as needed for your desired HHO output. When freezing temps are no longer possible for the year, drain and flush the system and switch to a mixture of just distilled water and electrolyte in the reservoir tank. *NOTE: Do not use baking soda to run the system it causes excessive contamination, and can lead to premature FAILURE. Although it is a harmless substance and non-toxic, it is NOT recommended for use in our systems. They will not operate optimally unless Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) or Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) is used as electrolyte. To obtain these electrolytes, please visit WWW.AAA-CHEMICALS.COM they have the most reasonable prices weve found on the net. In non-freezing environments, follow these steps.

RESERVOIR 1.) Make sure the system is turned off no power. First mix about 2 flat tablespoons of

your choice of Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) or Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) into a small cup of distilled water and once it is totally dissolved, add to the reservoir tank. (For 2 or 3-cell systems, start with 1 TBSP electrolyte (they will not require as much chemical concentration to get the desired amperage.)

2.) Now fill the system with distilled water until the level reaches about full on the reservoir tank. DO NOT OVERFILL. full is sufficient. You need the air space in this tank for the liquid and gas to separate.

3.) Wait a couple of minutes to make sure all the air has been pushed out of the hoses and the cooler as the water level may drop and adjust the level as described above. At this time, the level should be a little low to allow room for you to add more electrolyte while you adjust the system.

4.) You want the level to be at least 2 inches from the top of the tank when you are done setting the amp draw.

5.) Now tighten the cap and turn on the system. It is very important that the cap on the reservoir tank be tightened securely when operating the system. You must have a completely airtight seal, so that the HHO will not escape. Make sure that you tighten the cap to achieve an airtight seal, but do not over tighten or you may damage the tank or the cap.

6.) Wait a couple minutes for the amperage to stabilize usually within 5 minutes. 7.) If you see current draw on the ammeter, but no fluid moving up the return line within

1 to 2 minutes there is a leak somewhere in the system that is letting HHO escape. Shut it off immediately. Check all hose connections, and make sure that the cap is secure on the reservoir tank. Turn it back on and wait until you see bubbles and liquid moving up the return line to the tank. Now adjust the system according to HHO RECOMMENDATIONS at end of instructions if you need more HHO, add more electrolyte by mixing with a small amount of distilled water and adding slowly

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to the system. If you need less HHO and less amp draw, dilute the system by adding more distilled water. It is normal to have to add more electrolyte to get to the recommended amperage settings. (See HHO RECOMMENDATIONS at end of instructions.)

8.) To test that the system is operating properly, remove the hose from the engine intake barb connection and place the end of the hose in a container of water. You should see bubbles. If not, there is a leak somewhere in the system that is letting HHO escape. Check that the fill cap is tightly in place, and check all hose connections. Once this is verified, and bubbles are seen in the water, replace the hose onto the engine intake barb fitting.

9.) Once you have the output set where you want it, youre ready to go! Now, just check the amperage several more times over the first few trips you make to be sure it is stabilized where you want it it may drop down after running for awhile, this is normal just add more electrolyte until it is stable.

10.) Be sure to keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir tank and refill as necessary. Once you get an idea how much electrolyte you need to get the desired output, you may want to pre-mix your solution for easier refilling i.e. mix up a bottle of distilled water, isopropyl alcohol (if necessary) and electrolyte, and keep it in the trunk. Keep in mind, always check the amperage after refilling, as the electrolyte to water ratio may have been changed by the refill. You wont need to add as much electrolyte on a refill as when you first fill the system, some of it stays in the system, so you just need to add mostly water. When the water in the system becomes discolored, and has a strong brown tint (usually every 5 or 6 months) use the drain plug to drain the system, and flush with distilled water. Replace the drain plug and refill the system as you did originally. Good Luck! And thanks again for purchasing!

*NOTE: If this is a fuel injected gasoline vehicle, you will need to install Oxygen sensor isolators or an EFIE (Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer) to cut back the vehicles fuel delivery to compensate for the induction of HHO into the engine. Oxygen sensor isolators are a good starting place, but an EFIE will give you the best fuel mileage increases. If you are interested in purchasing an EFIE, please visit our web site www.AlternativeMPG.com (on the products page) for information on where to purchase. Instructions on installing the EFIE are included separately with the device. Remember, once you become familiar with the operation of the system and are comfortable with how an HHO Dry Cell System works, please consider adding a bubbler and cooler into your system to achieve optimal function, system life and safety. If you purchase these components as add-ons to your starter kit, please let us know so that we can include a full set of instructions for a complete system with your bubbler/cooler. Questions or comments regarding installation? Contact Tech Support by email at SALES@ALTERNATIVEMPG.COM, and list Tech Support as the subject of your email. Thanks!!

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HHO RECOMMENDATIONS: VEHICLE RECOMMENDED HHO 4 CYLINDER 1 LITER PER MINUTE (SET AMPS AT 15-20) 6 CYLINDER WITH ENGINE SIZE LESS THAN 4.5 6 CYLINDER WITH ENGINE 1.5 LITERS PER MINUTE SIZE LARGER THAN 4.5 (SET AMPS AT 25-30)

8 CYLINDER WITH ENGINE *DUAL CELL SYSTEM SIZE LESS THAN 6.0 RECOMMENDED 8 CYLINDER WITH ENGINE 2.0 2.2 LITERS PER MIN SIZE LARGER THAN 6.0 (SET AMPS AT 35-40) ENGINES LARGER THAN *TRI CELL SYSTEM 8 CYLINDERS RECOMMENDED *NOTE: SYSTEMS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR USE OVER 40 AMPS!

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BASIC DRY CELL SYSTEM SETUP:

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RECOMMENDED WIRING:

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ADVANCED DRY CELL SYSTEM SETUP:

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ADVANCED DRY CELL SYSTEM SETUP:

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DUAL CELL SETUP (For engines over 4.5L)