ijrar.orgijrar.org/papers/IJRAR_197419.docx · Web view2019. 2. 18. · D.S [2010] The word Kashmir can be divided as ‘Kas’ means ‘water channel’ and ‘Mir’ refer to

Reinventing the Traditional Kashida Embroidery Through Conventional Hand Painting

Reinventing the Traditional Kashida Embroidery Through

Conventional Hand Painting technique on Ladies Shirt

*Harpreet Kaur (Corresponding Author)

HOD, P.G. Department of Fashion Designing,

Kanya Maha Vidyalaya, Jalandhar

[email protected]

Gurinderjit Kaur

[email protected]

Research Scholar, P.G. Department of Fashion Designing,

Kanya Maha Vidyalaya, Jalandhar



technique on Ladies Shirt

Kashida Embroidery and its Origin

According to Dr Purwar S[2015] Kashmiri embroidery is one Universal art that shows

expression and fineness par excellence. The embroidery of Kashmir deserves a volume by itself

for sheer range. The most popular design is buta. Some other motifs such as paisley inspired by

Ambia (Mango). Border is also oldest way of decorating and is done along one selvedge with

ground extending to the other selvedge. According to Dr Naik. D.S [2010] The word Kashmir

can be divided as ‘Kas’ means ‘water channel’ and ‘Mir’ refer to ‘Mountain’. Actually Kashmir

means ‘rock through’ in the regional language. The shawl’s sudden migration in 1800 from

Kashmir to Europe brought a lot of changes in this art form. The present work defines and

classifies the Kashmiri shawl. Kashmiri shawl developed over three hundred years, through four

different periods of foreign and political rule.

According the Jaitly J [1990] Kashmir embroidery is remarkable more for the skilled

execution of a single stitch rather than the elaborate, quality of the stitch itself. Chain stitch, satin

stitch ,the stem stitch, herringbone and sometimes the doori or knot stitch are used. The

technique is executed by splitting the underlying yarn in two with the use of a very fine needle so

that the entire fabric is not pierced.

According to Shrikant U [2010] The artistic faculty of the Kashmir receives a great

stimulus from this beautiful habit. The embroidery has the freshness of Nature which is a

reflection of Kashmir’s rich landscape. The embroidery is distinctly characteristic in its

technique and appearance.

Review of Literature

Kashmiri Shawl:

According to Shah M Haji [2004]1 The shawl had been in existence, in variety of forms,

from the most ancient times, serving as a staple and protective garment not only for the rich and

noble but also and above all for the common people. In ancient Buddhist literature the shawl can


be found among recorded inventories of woollen textiles, and its manufacture appears to have

been a cottage industry in Kashmir as early as the eleventh century.

According to Gillow and Barnard [1991] a study conducted on Indian textiles. The

origins and development of the Kashmir shawl owe much both to Kashmir’s location. The

classical Kashmir shawl was woven out of Pashmina wool, whose main source was the fleece

of a central Asian species of mountain goat ,the Capra hircus. Kashmiri shawls were known as

‘kani’ shawls and also as “Jamawars”. Woven in the –tapestry technique, the weft threads of

these shawls alone from the pattern.

According to Dr. Purwar [2015] Designs on Kashmiri shawls remain traditional. The

most popular design is the boota or buta, paisley and chinar leave. These motifs are completed by

various techniques such as- Sozani, Ari , and Crewel work , Kanikar , Raizkar, Watchikaen and

Tilla and Dori work. All of these fine, time consuming techniques are only carried out on the

softest and most luxurious clothes.

A study was conducted by Lehri R.M. [2009] on Indian Textiles. Embroidery is another

ancient variety of designing fabrics. It is decorative needlework in which design and pictures are

created by stitching strands of one material on to a layer of another material. Hand embroidery

and recently Machine embroidery are both used for creative work on individual pieces and for

mass-production.

Techniques of Embroidery:

A study conducted by S. Usha [2002] on designs for lifetime. There are three techniques.

Sozni and Rezkari- is mainly done on shawls using single strand and double strand of silk or fine

Pashmina floss. Zardozi or Couching – is done mainly on shawl and ethnic wear. Gold plated and

imitation metal threads are tied down on the surface using Couching technique, with the help of a

single cotton thread. Watchikan and Papermeshi- are recent developments. These techniques are

used as a faster and simpler version of sozni.

According to Ranjan A, Ranjan M.P [2007], Sozni is a form of extremely fine and

delicate needlework done primarily on shawls- mainly pashmina and high quality raffal. Tilla


and dori work are executed with gold or silver zari or silk and are used to embellish pherans,

saris and shawl.

According to Naik D S [2010], the technique of Kashida originated with darning stitch, used as

a finish to the shawl by the Rafugar. It is a simple running stitch gives a woven design effect on

the shawl. Other stitches include Sozni, Zalakdori and Vatachikan.

Hand Painting:

According to Dr. Randhawa R.K [2009], printing is a form of colour decoration applied

to the fabric. Actually printing was popular in India even thousands of years before Christian

Era.

Brush:

According to the Hauser P [2007], there are many type of brushes, and different shaped brushes

to do different things. Flat brush- flat brush are designed for plain brush strokes and blending.

Round brush -Round brush are used primarily for strokes and blending.

Chain Stitch:

According to the Gillowand Sentence [1999], chain stitch is a very versatile stitch with

many variations and is in wide use in many parts of the world. It is often used to define lines or

borders and can also be used as a filling and padding when a raised effect is required. Chain

stitch is one of the most ancient stitches.

According to Jailty J [1990], chain stitch embroidery employed the use of an ari, a small,

hooked awl which is believed to have been introduced by the Mughal emperor Akbar. The ari is

inserted through the cloth in the form of a loop and is finally pulled up through the surface of the

cloth to form a stitch. The chain was also used for gabbas and numdas, floor coverings used in

homes.

Motifs:

According to the S. Usha [2010], outcomes of the study revealed that the designs are

floral, of sprawling creepers. Common motifs are chinar leaves, Aambi{mango}, Badam

{almond}. Sometimes birds and animal motifs are used.


According to the Naik D Shailaja [2010], animal and human figures are not found

commonly, probably due to the influence of Muslim religion. But few old pieces depicted

hunting scene popularly known as “shikargarh” available only in Museums of Srinagar. The

border of such motifs had bands of marching soldiers and horse riders embroidered on separated

panels. The use of such motifs slowly declined and has given an impression that, such figures

were never used in Kashida of Kashmir.

Aims and Objectives:

To study the present status of Kashida embroidery in India.

To create designs for ladies shirt using Kashida motifs with Hand painting.

To paint the most preferred designs on shirt.

To revive the glory of Kashida embroidery through cheaper reinvented techniques which

are within the reach of middle class.

To find out the consumer acceptability and marketability of the created shirt.

Limitations:

Only 5 motifs from each category were selected. Consequently total 20 motifs were

shortlisted for second round of ranking. Only five compositions were made using these

motifs.

Only one selected composition was executed on shirt.

Designs were made on Cotton shirt.

Material and Methods:

In order to facilitate the presentation the methodology was divided into the following parts:

1. Selection of method

2. Pre-testing

3. Selection of motifs

a. Categories

4. Analysis of design

a. Ranking

b. Coding

c. Tabulation

5. Selection of Placement


a. Five Designs Prepared

b. Ranking

c. Coding

d. Tabulation

6. Selection of color

a. Pantone color chart

7. Technique

a. Hand painting

The study “Reinventing the conventional Kashida embroidery through hand painting of

ladies shirt” was undertaken to achieve the goal of creating hand painted ladies shirt

using Kashida motifs in design

Sourcing of designs was done from various books.

Pre testing: To test whether hand painting is suitable for representing Kashida embroidery

a 8’x8” sample was prepared using one of the Kashida motifs. It was found to be giving a

justifiable representation of the same thus it was selected for proceeding further.

To ensure objectivity the motifs were categorized as per type of motifs like Buti, Jaal,

Border, Bel {twine}.

From each category only 5 motifs were selected i.e., total 20 motifs were shortlisted.

To ascertain freedom from personal prejudice, a panel of judges ranked each category of

motifs. Coding and tabulation was done to find out the highest ranked motif from each

category. The method of weighted ranking was used to ensure high quality result.

The highest ranked motif from each category was used to create five compositions.

Various placement styles were used and five prototypes were prepared for ranking by the

panel of judges.

Panel of judges was selected for ranking of final composition. The panel comprised of:

10 Post graduate students of fashion designing

Coding and tabulation was done to find out the highest ranked composition

Highest ranked composition was selected for hand painting on the cotton shirt.

For Colour selection latest forecast of Pantone colour , spring 2018 chart was


used. The colours used were Panton 18-1140 chili oil , Pantone 17-1563 cherry tomato,

Pantone 16-4132Little Boy Blue, Pantone 18-1028, Emperador, Pantone 13-0646,

meadowlark, Pantone 19-4034 Sailor blue.

Using the technique of Hand painting, the effect of chain stitch used in the embroidered

designs was reinvented.

To test consumer acceptability the prepared ladies shirt was shown to 10 randomly

selected respondents [using convenience ranking technique ]from the department of

Fashion Designing.

For testing consumer acceptability these respondents were administered a questionnaire ,

which was evaluated for above criteria.

Results and Discussions1. Selection of motifs: For designing the motifs were collected from various books of traditional

textile, books on Kashmiri embroidery ,internet etc. The categories were made according to the

type of motifs:

Jaal,

Buti ,

Bel,

Border

Total of five motifs were short listed from each category. A panel of 10 judges comprising of

post graduate students of Fashion Designing were further asked to rank the motifs from each

category.


Fig. 1 Jaal


Fig 2 Buti


Fig. 3 Bel


Fig. 4 Border


Table 1

Buti

Table 2

Bel

Design No. Marks Rank

Design 1 53 1

Design 2 45 2

Design 3 28 5

Design 4 41 3

Design 5 33 4

Table 3

Jaal


Design 1 28 4

Design 2 47 1

Design 3 30 2

Design 4 29 3

Design 5 27 5


Design 1 51 1

Design 2 42 2

Design 3 39 3

Design 4 32 5

Design 5 36 4


Table 4

Border

Design no Marks Rank

Design 1 41 3

Design 2 24 5

Design 3 49 1

Design 4 46 2

Design 5 38 4

2. Evaluation of design placement: Design placements were evaluated by the same panel of

judges. The designs were given ranks and marks subsequently. The most preferred design was

design no- 4

Fig. 5 Placements

Fig. 5 A Fig. 5 B Fig. 5 C


Fig. 5 D Fig. 5 E

Table 5

Placement Ranking

Placement No. Marks Rank

Placement 1 21 5

Placement 2 22 4

Placement 3 27 3

Placement 4 43 1

Placement 5 32 2


One top ranked placement as per table no.5 was painted with selected colour from Pantone

colour chart, Spring 2018.

Selection of colour:

The colours selected were Pantone 18-1140 chili oil , Pantone 17-1563 cherry tomato, Pantone

16-4132 Little Boy Blue, Pantone 18-1028, Emperador, Pantone13-0646, meadowlark, Pantone

19-4034 Sailor blue. The exact hues of Pantone colour chart were not available in the acrylic

colours in the market so the researcher prepared them by adding other shades tones and tints of

various colours.

Fig. 6 Selected Pantone Colors Spring-18


Working on Final Ladies Shirt

Fig. 7 A Fig. 7 B

Consumer acceptability of the ladies shirt: The ladies shirt were shown to 10 randomly

selected respondents from department of Fashion Designing, a questionnaire was given to them

to collect information and to to check acceptability for the estimated cost of shirt.

Fig. 8 A Fig. 8 B


1. Would you buy this painted ladies Shirt at the following selling Price?

Distribution on the basis of selling price

Table 5. A

S. No. Price N %

1 200-250 2 20%

2 250-300 8 80%

3 300-450 -- --

20%

80%

200-250250-300

Pie chart no. 5.A

For table number 3.A it is observed 80% of the respondents would like to pay Rs.300/- for

This ladies shirt while 20% respondents are ready to pay Rs.250/-.

2. Do you like its innovative design?

Yes

No

Yes, 100% respondents like it is innovative design because of its motifs and designing.


3. Would you refer it to your friend/ relatives etc?

Yes

No

Yes, 100% respondents are refer it to our friends and relatives.

4. Do you associated with the concept of reinventing the embroidery as hand painting?

Yes

No

Yes, 100% respondents are like the concept of reinventing the embroidery as hand painting.

5. Would you like to suggest any changes?

Fabric

Design

Colour

Any Other

Table 5 B

Distribution on the basis of Changes

Changes N %

1. Fabric 4 40%

2. Design 1 10%

3. Color 2 20%

4. Any other 3 30%

40%

10%20%

30%fabricDesignColourAny other

Pie Chart No. 5. B


For table no 3. B it is observed 40% of the respondents suggested changes in fabric while 30%

have suggested other changes like variation in placement of design or size of design and 20%

respondents want the colours to be changed. Interestingly none of the responded wanted a

change in design which is very heartening for the researcher as it behoves that it is a successful

design

6.Is this shirt suitable as per current fashion?

Yes

No

99% of the respondents accepted this shirt suitable as per current fashion and 1% of

respondents are not accepted.

7.Would you like to order more similarily designed Ladies Shirts?

Yes

No

Yes, 100% respondents like to order similar designs.

8. Would you order for other traditional embroidery with same technique?

Yes

No

Yes, 100% of the respondents are order traditional embroidery with same techniques.

9. If yes, which embroidery you selected?

Kantha

Phulkari

Chikankari

Any other

Table 5 C

Distribution on the basis of Embroidery

Embroidery n %

Kantha 5 50%

Phulkari - -

Chikankari 3 30%

Any other 2 20%


0.5

0.3

0.2

KanthaPhulkariChikankariAny other

Pie Chart No.5 C

For table No. 3.C it is observed that 50% of the respondents selected the kantha embroidery done

through technique of hand painting while 30% of the respondents selected Chikankari and 10%

suggested Katch embroidery.

Summary and Conclusion

In Today’s world where fashion is ever changing, it is important to keep innovative but at the

same time taking inspiration from rich treasure of our traditional textiles will help to keep them

alive. Kashmiri embroidery is one Universal art that shows their expression and fineness. The

study “Reinventing the conventional Kashida embroidery through hand painting of ladies shirt”

was undertaken to achieve the goal of creating hand painted ladies shirt using Kashida motifs in

design. To ensure objectivity the motifs were categorized as per type of motifs like Buti, Jaal,

Border, Bel [twine].From each category only 5 motifs were selected i.e., total 20 motifs were

shortlisted. Various placement styles were used and five prototypes were prepared for ranking by

the panel of judges. Panel of judges was selected for ranking of final composition. The colours

Selected were Panton 18-1140 chili oil , Pantone 17-1563 cherrytomato, Pantone 16-4132 Little

Boy Blue, Pantone 18-1028, Emperador, Pantone.

13-0646, meadowlark, Pantone 19-4034 Sailor blue. The ladies shirt were shown to Randomly

selected . A questionnaire gave to 10 randomly selected respondents from the department of

Fashion Designing were collected to check acceptability for the estimate cost of shirt. Using the


technique of Hand painting, the effect of chain stitch used in the mbroidered designs was

reinvented.

References

Srikant, U. (2010). Designs for a Lifetime. Mumbai: The South Pacific Clothes Export

Company Pvt. Ltd.

Ranjan, A. and Ranjan, M.P. (2007). Crafts of India Handmade in India. New Delhi:

Mapin Publishing.

Gillow, J. and Barnard, N. (1991). Traditional Indian Textiles. London: Thames &

Hudson.

Gillow, J. and Sentance, B. (1999) World Textile a Visual Guide to Traditional

Techniques. Boston: A Bulfinch Press Book.

Hauser, P. (2007). The Complete Guide to Painting on Porcelain and Ceramic. New York:

Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.

Purwar, S. (2015). Indian Folk Arts. New Delhi: GRD Prakashan.

Naik, S.D. (2010). Traditional Embroideries of India. New Delhi: A.P.H. Publishing

Corporation.

Jaitly, J. (1990). Crafts of Jammu, Kashmir & Ladakh. Ahmedabad: Mapin Publishing

Pvt. Ltd.

Dr. Brar Pradhdip, Prof. Kaur Harpreet, Sikka Sumita. (2015) Reinventing the

conventional craft of Ikat through screen printed stole. Textile Trends. Kolkata: Eastland

Publications. ISSN00405205. Page No. 1-9.

Kushwaha, S., Swami, C. (2016) Upcycling of Leather Waste to Create Upcycled

Products and Accessories. Textile Trends. Kolkata: Eastland Publications.

ISSN00405205. Page No. 187.

Website: https://en.m.wikipedia.org

https://www.googlesholargoogle.com



Appendix

1. Would You buy this painted ladies shirt at the following selling price?

a. Rs 200/-

b. Rs 300/-

c. Rs400/-

2. Do you like its innovative designs?

a. Yes

b. No

3. Would you refer it to your friend/ relatives etc?

a. Yes

b. No

4. Do you associated with the concept of reinventing the embroidery as Hand painting?

a. Yes

b. No

5.Would you like to suggest any changes?

a. Fabric

b. Design

c. Colour

d. Any other

6. Is this shirt suitable as per current fashion?

a. Yes

b. No

7. Would you like to order more similarly designed ladies shirt?

a. Yes

b. No

8. Would you order for other traditional embroidery with same technique?

a. Yes

b. No

9. If yes, which embroidery you selected?

a. Kantha

b. Phulkari


c. Chikankari

d. Any other

Documents

ijrar.orgijrar.org/papers/IJRAR_197419.docx · Web view2019. 2. 18. · D.S [2010] The word Kashmir can be divided as ‘Kas’ means ‘water channel’ and ‘Mir’ refer to