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How to Make an 8-Faucet Ferro-
Cement Hand Washing Station
Created by Jackie Powell
Agua para la Salud
Nebaj, Guatemala
June 2010
What is Ferrocement?
A composite
material--in this case
using cement, rebar,
and square mesh for
enforcement
Once the frame of a
structure is created
using rebar and
mesh, cement is
applied
Rebar &
mesh
structure
Applying
cement
Cement vs. Concrete
Our definitions of cement and concrete:
Cement= sand + powdered cement + water
Concrete= gravel + sand + powdered cement +
water
We suggest using 4000 PSI powdered
cement
Cement Mixture Proportions
Regular= 2 sand x 1 powdered cement
using a 23 caliber sifter or ½” wire mesh
Mix in a location with no rocks
Fino= 2 sand x 1 powdered cement
Using an extremely fine sifter
Mix in wheelbarrow
Liso= pure powdered cement + water
Mix in wheelbarrow
Concrete Mixture Proportions Concrete mixture varies
depending on size of gravel in your location
If ¾” grade gravel is available the mixture should be: 2.5 gravel x 2 sand x 1 powered cement
Otherwise, it is a good idea to ask nearby concrete company for the best mixture for the area
In Guatemala we use a 2x1x1 mixture
StepsPlacement &
Leveling
Making the Base
Laying Pipe
Making the Wall
Placing Drainage
Tubes & Clean
Outs
Steps Continued
Finishing the Wall
Making the 2000L Tank
Making Tank Walls
Cementing the Tank
Finishing TouchesFour Clean Outs
35cm Sink Basin
Tank Lid
Adding Float
Placement & Leveling
Before construction, think of an ideal location for the hand washing station. If possible place in a location near bathrooms and kitchen and not in a location that will be needed for the construction of future classrooms, football fields, etc.
Level an area of at least 4x4 meters and determine an area to mix concrete and cement
4x4m
Making the Base
Base
Make a level wooden form for base measuring 3.2 x 3.2 meters and 15cm deep. Use a line level to level the wooden form
3.2x3.2 meters
15cm deep
15cm deep
63cm
3m
3m
Make rebar base structure 3 x 3 meters
To create: cut 12- 3m rebar pieces & 20 -65cm rebar pieces (creating squares measuring 25 x 25 cm). Tie each junction with tie wire.
25cm
25cm
Laying Pipe
Drainage 2” PVC- enters
seepage pit or septic tankInflow ½” galvanized pipe-
connects to water source
1.2m
1.3m
Make a one-layer, 60cm thick layer of rock with 10 cm space between rock and wooden board frame.
60cm
Overflow & Clean Out 2” PVC- enters tank, placed above rock layer
1.2m
3.2m base
3.2
m b
as
e
2.2m wall
2.2
m w
all
150cm
150cm
Overflow
& Clean Out
165cm
75cmDrainage
160cm
95cm
Aerial
View of
Pipe
Placement
in
Relation
to the
Base
Entrance
½”
galvanized
pipe
35cm between tank
and wall
Place the rebar frame on top of rock layer.
Fill in 60cm rock frame with concrete.
Making the Wall
WALL
CLEAN OUTS
Make rebar wall structure with 4 rings of #cm
diameter, spaced 15cm apart bound with #
verticals measuring 56cm spaced 27cm
27cm27cm27cm 27cm27cm 27cm27cm 27cm
15
cm
15
cm
15
cm
Tie each
junction
with tie
wire.
40cm
5cm
Put together the larger metal wall
form.
Place the rebar structure inside of the outer
wall and adjust to ensure a 5cm space all
around.
Place the wall form and rebar on top of the
foundation.
Fill with stones.
Placing Drainage Tubes & Clean Outs
Fill in with large rocks leaving 20cm from
the rock to top of wooden form
20cm
20cm
Cross should be placed in center of frame
Attach four pieces of 75cm long 2” PVC tube from each opening of the cross
75cm
Then attach a T connection 25cm from wooden form
Add another piece of PVC tube until it reaches the end of the form
Attach drainage cap to T and make sure it is level with top of wooden form should be 15cm from the top of wooden form
Drainage cap is made
by drilling 5/16” holes
in a 2” PVC cap
25cm
15cm
One drain should be connected to drainage tube using a cross connection
This drain should be angled slightly lower than other drains (17cm from top of wooden form) allowing for gray water to flow downhill into drainage tube
Drainage tube
connecting to
seepage pit or
absorption tank
Four clean outs at
each end of drain
Clean outs can be
placed before or
after pouring
concrete. SEE
SLIDES # 59&60
Glue all tubes together!
Angled slightly
downhill
Aerial view of wall form
Inner Form
Rebar
frame
Outer
Form
10 cm
Put together the smaller metal form for the
inner side of the wall and place on top of
stones.
Fill in 10cm space with concrete and smooth
top
Making the 2000L Tank
Tank
Faucets
Screw together circular metal form
Measurements for circular metal form
15cm
5cm
40cm
40cm
40cm
40cm
40cm
Distances
between faucet
slots
Place circular metal form 35cm from inner wall of metal form, making sure it’s level.
35cm
Level!
Make two rebar rings to fit into circular metal form
Rings should have a diameter of 128cm, using a 4.35m piece of rebar allowing for 35cm of overlap should work nicely
Cut 16 pieces of 60cm long rebar
Tie 16 pieces onto rings 25cm apart
60cm rebar pieces tied to
rebar rings
25cm
apart
Fill in with rock and concrete to top of
circular metal form
Place ½” galvanized steel faucet pipes in 8 openings at a slight angle
15cm
20cm
Fill in circular metal form with concrete and level off with wooden board leaving the center a bit lower than the edges
Level
with
board
Add a 140cm ½” galvanized pipe to existing pipe
Making the Tank Walls
Cut 16 pieces 2m rebar pieces
Bend 40cm into a 40˚ angle
40˚ angle
40cm 2m
To check 40˚ angle, place bars 128cm apart and the opening should measure 50cm
128cm
50cm
Tie each 2m long bent rebar pieces to 60cm rebar stakes in tank base about 5cm of the 2m long piece should be pushed into base as
well
Tie in
two
places
Attach ½” elbow to
connect ½” float valve
Make a 50cm diameter rebar circle and attach to top of tank
50cm
Make 6 rebar rings with diameters of
128cm each and tie them 25cm apart
Rebar
rings
placed
25cm
apart
Also, add one rebar ring to top of tank
Adding
rebar
ring to
top
Make several 100 -10cm long U-shaped wire pieces
Using U-shaped pieces to secure, place one layer of ¼” square mesh on rebar structure and tie securely with tie wire.
Inflow ½” galvanized pipe needs to be have an extra layer of mesh tied around it from the inside of the tank
Cementing the Tank
Add first layer 2x1 cement mixture from inside tank and allow to dry overnight
Pay special
attention when
covering this
pipe with cement
Add layer of 2x1
cement on top of
tank the next day
Apply three layers of cement on the outside of the tank allowing for time to dry in-between applications. Two regular layers and finish with a fino layer
Finish with a fino layer
Apply four more layers of cement inside the tank.Two regular, one fino, and one liso
Finishing Touches:
Four Clean Outs
Clean Outs
2” male or female threaded adaptors with
appropriate cap can be used for clean outs
Female with male cap Male with female cap
Take off metal forms and attach clean outs
on each drain
35cm Sink Basin
Sink Basin
10cm
wall
Tank
Fill in sink
with
cement
Make indentations to hold soap
35cm
Unscrew the circular metal form and allow it to expand in the sink basin. Fill in the corners with concrete.
Create sink area by filling in with cement. Cover the drainage caps with PVC or plastic to keep cement from entering.
10cm
The sink level should be about 1” higher
than the drainage cap
1”
Tank Lid
Lid
Make a rebar lid structure and
cover it with ¼” square mesh.
50cm
16cm
17cm
50cm
17cm
7cm3cm
Cover with
mesh
Lid rebar structure with mesh and tie wire
Cut out a
cardboard circle the
size of the opening,
approx. 50cm in
diameter
Lay down a piece
of plastic and then
lay down the
rebar/mesh lid
structure.
Fill in the rebar/mesh structure with the 3 to 1 cement mixture
Use a trowel to make sure there are no air bubbles and the lid is smooth and rounded.
To make sure the lid is always placed on the tank correctly, make an arrow on the lid and on the tank so they can always line up
Make marks so lid always fits tightly
After the lid has time to cure, remove plastic and cardboard
Clean off bottom of
lid for a good fit
Adding Float
Connect float to elbow on entrance ½”
galvanized pipe
Float
140cm
entrance
pipe
5cm galvanized
pipe connecting
elbow to float