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127 1 of 1 Fountain Create a pond, then cap it with a waterfall made from a hand-carved stone. Enter email address Free OnSite Newsletter Get timely DIY projects for your home and yard, plus a dream project for your wish list! Summary Step-by-Step Tools & Materials Comments (1) View All The Family Handyman Books Free Newsletters Free Product Info Promotions SUBSCRIBE NOW » Give a Gift » Digital Edition » Customer Care » find DIY projects, repairs, tips ROOMS SKILLS PARTS OF THE HOUSE OUTDOORS COMMUNITY MAGAZINE VIDEOS GO PRO WEEKEND PROJECTS

How to Build a Concrete Fountain - Step by Step.pdf

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Page 1: How to Build a Concrete Fountain - Step by Step.pdf

7/26/13 Fountain: How to Build a Concrete Fountain - Step by Step: The Family Handyman

www.familyhandyman.com/landscaping/outdoor-fountains/fountain-how-to-build-a-concrete-fountain/step-by-step 1/6

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Create a stone-lined garden pond, then carve a

waterfall out of a block of stone using basic power

and hand tools. The technique is simple, even for

beginners.

By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine

Overview

Selecting a stone

Getting started

Cut, chisel and grind the bowl

Cut the channel

Set the fountain stone

Home > Outdoors > Landscaping > Outdoor Fountains > Fountain: How to Build a Concrete Fountain

Fountain: How to Build a Concrete FountainCarving stone requires years of training, extraordinary skill and endless patience—or you can cheatand use power tools.

Overview

If you have a circular saw and an angle grinder, you can spend about an hour in a cloud of dust and emerge with

a carved fountain stone like this one. You won't need any special talent, just a few tricks and a couple of

diamond saw blades (see “Tools and gear” below).

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127

1 of 1

Fountain

Create a pond, then cap it with a waterfall made

from a hand-carved stone.

Enter email address

Free OnSite Newsletter

Get timely DIY projects for your home and yard,plus a dream project for your wish list!

Summary Step-by-Step Tools & Materials Comments (1) View All

The Family Handyman Books Free Newsletters Free Product Info Promotions

SUBSCRIBE NOW »

Give a Gift »

Digital Edition »

Customer Care »

find DIY projects, repairs, tips

ROOMS SKILLS PARTS OF THE HOUSE OUTDOORS COMMUNITY MAGAZINE VIDEOS GO PRO WEEKEND PROJECTS

Page 2: How to Build a Concrete Fountain - Step by Step.pdf

7/26/13 Fountain: How to Build a Concrete Fountain - Step by Step: The Family Handyman

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A weekend is plenty of time to carve the stone and create a small pond. Your masterpiece could look entirely

different from the one I made, depending on the shape of the stone you choose. I purchased all the stone and

spent about $200 on the whole project, but if you have access to free stone, you can cut that cost in half.

Selecting a stoneThe 6-in.-thick sandstone block I used was about 9 x 20 in. and cost about $15 at a landscape supplier. The

stone you use can be any size and shape as long as it has a flat spot that's at least 8-1/2 in. across. The bowl

itself will measure just over 6-3/4 in. across and 2 in. deep.

Soft stone is best for this project. Although you can cut and grind very hard stone, it could turn this one-hour task

into an all-day chore. Also avoid stone with strong “grain”—layers of harder and softer stone—because it tends

to crack along the layers. That makes chisel work risky; one wrong blow can ruin your project.

Hardness and grain aren't always obvious from look and touch. So if you pick up stone alongside the road, you

won't know if it's workable until you try it. If you buy stone, be sure to ask for recommendations. In most areas,

sandstone and some types of limestone are your best bet.

Getting started

Cutting stone whips up a dust storm—don't even think about doing it in your garage. Work as far away as

possible from anything you don't want coated with dust, especially open windows or your neighbor's convertible.

Take five minutes to set up a sturdy work surface (I used a couple of sawhorses and 2x8 planks.) You'll get

better results if you're working comfortably, and you'll save your back. If the stone wobbles on your work surface,

steady it with shims.

Next, mark out the bowl and channel (Photo 1). If you want a curving channel like ours, avoid tight curves;

anything tighter than the curve of a 1-gallon paint can will be tough to cut with your grinder. Make the channel

about 1-1/2 in. wide and flare it to a width of 2-1/2 in. at the bowl. The flare helps create strong water flow. The

flare at the front of the channel is purely for looks.

Building the Fountain

This pond is small—a 30 x 36-in. oval,

about 14 in. deep. Building a pond

couldn't be much simpler. Just dig a

hole, line it with pond underlayment

followed by an EPDM rubber liner and

surround it with stone. Then build a

simple stepped-up wall to support the

fountain stone. Here are some tips for a

smooth project:

Select larger flagstones for the first

layer surrounding the pond. They

stay put better and can overhang the

edge of the hole by 2 to 3 in. to hide

the liner.

Leave a small gap between two of

the flagstones so you can feed the

pump tubing through later.

The flagstone I used for the wall had

flat faces that fit together fairly tightly

when stacked. That allowed me to

glue them together with

polyurethane construction adhesive

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Photo 1: Mark the bowl and channel

Trace around a paint can using a black marker so

the circle will show up through a storm of dust.

Sketch the channel with a pencil and then darken

the lines with a marker.

Figure A: Fountain

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(see Photo 8). If you use irregular

stone, you'll have bigger gaps and

mortar would be a better choice. If

you use large stones, you may not

need adhesive or mortar. Heavy

stones stay put by themselves.

The pump I used is rated for 210

gallons per hour. A smaller pump

may have worked, but I've learned

that it's better to spend a little extra

than to discover later that a pump

was too small.

Even if your pump has a built-in flow

adjustment knob, consider adding a

valve (see Figure B) for quicker,

more accurate adjustments.

Choose your tubing before you drill

the hole in the bowl (Photo 7).

Depending on the outer diameter of

the tube, you need either a 5/8-in. or

3/4-in. drill bit.

The tubing I used fit snugly into a

3/4-in. hole. So I slathered the tube

with silicone caulk, slid it about 1-1/2

in. into the stone and let it set

overnight. Don't insert the tube all

the way to the top of the drilled hole.

The larger diameter of the drilled

hole helps to dampen water

pulsation caused by the pump.

Cut, chisel and grind the bowl

Figure B: Adjustable Flow Control

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Photo 2: Cut the bowl like a pie

Make plunge cuts across the bowl outline. Hold the

saw so that the front of the shoe is resting firmly

against the stone. Then slowly lower the blade into

the stone. Wear eye protection.

2 of 3

Photo 3: Break out the “pie slices”

Chip away the first few slices. After that, you'll have

space to aim your chisel at the base of each slice,

and most will pop out with one blow.

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« Previous Photo Next Photo »

Fire up your saw and make the bowl cuts (Photo 2). When making plunge cuts, you have to keep an eye on both

the front and the back ends of the blade to make sure you don't cut beyond the circle. And remember that the

spinning blade will try to drag the saw backward. If your circle disappears under a layer of dust, stop and blow off

the dust. If you guesstimate where the line is and guess wrong, you'll end up with a lopsided bowl. Make at least

eight cuts; the more cuts you make, the easier the next step will be.

Next, chisel out the bowl (Photo 3). If any of the slices don't break out easily, rev up your saw again. Better to

make more cuts than to whack out a big slice and leave a crater in the bowl. Grinding (Photo 4) is tedious, but

patience pays off in the form of a smooth, rounded bowl. With very soft stone, like the sandstone I used, you can

polish the bowl even smoother by hand-sanding with 80-grit sandpaper.

Cut the channel

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Photo 4: Grind the bowl smooth

Drag the edge of the wheel quickly and lightly

across the bowl. If you press too hard or hesitate,

you'll create gouges that require more grinding to

smooth over.

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Photo 5: Cut the channel

Make cuts along the edges and several in between.

Cut in shallow passes, going gradually deeper with

each pass. If you make deep passes, the spinning

blade will pull itself off course.

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Photo 6: Chip out the channel

Break out the slivers of stone to open up the

channel. Then rev up your grinder again to perfect

the edge cuts and smooth the bottom of the

channel.

Page 5: How to Build a Concrete Fountain - Step by Step.pdf

7/26/13 Fountain: How to Build a Concrete Fountain - Step by Step: The Family Handyman

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« Previous Photo Next Photo »

Similar Projects

Cut the channel as deep as the diamond blade on your grinder will reach (about 7/8 in., depending on your

grinder). But the key to controlling that spinning blade is to make all cuts in shallow passes (1/8 to 1/4 in.). Start

by cutting the outer edges of the channel. Don't worry about forming perfectly smooth curves yet; if you have to

form a rough curve with a series of short, straight cuts, that's OK. Next, cut grooves in the middle of the channel

(Photo 5). Then chisel out the channel (Photo 6). That will open up space to smooth out the curved edges with

the diamond blade, a grinding disc or a combination of both. When the channel is done, drill a hole in the bowl

(Photo 7) sized to accept the tube from the pump.

Set the fountain stone

Positioning the stone takes some care. You have to adjust the flow from the pump, level and shim the stone

from side to side so water doesn't spill out of the bowl, and tilt the stone slightly for a strong, spilling stream.

When you have it right, remove the stone, apply a bed of mortar or generous beads of construction adhesive,

and reset the stone. Keep the 2x4 bridge in place overnight. If water clings to the underside of the stone and

runs back toward the stone wall, apply a bead of clear silicone caulk under the front of the stone. The silicone

“drip edge” will force the water to drop off.

Tools and Gear

To cut the bowl, you'll need a standard circular saw and a 7-in. diamond blade. Diamond blades can

cost $75 or more. But for this small job, cheaper is better. I spent about $30.

To smooth the bowl, you'll need a small angle grinder and a grinding wheel. Don't balk at buying a

grinder just for this project; you'll find other uses for it. If you want to cut a curved channel, you'll need a 4-

or 4-1/2-in. diamond blade. Or you can cut a straight channel with your circular saw.

I used a hammer drill to drill the hole in the bowl. But a standard drill, along with a little extra patience,

will do the job if you're using soft stone. Use a masonry drill bit diameter that matches the outer diameter

of the pump tubing.

This project whips up a tornado of dust and grit, making a dust mask and eye protection mandatory.

Safety glasses will do, but I prefer a face shield. Those flying slivers of stone sting!

Back to Top

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Photo 7: Drill a hole in the bowl

To avoid chipping around the edges of the hole,

start with the drill’s hammer action turned off. When

the hole is about 1/2 in. deep, switch the hammer

action on for faster drilling.

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Photo 8: Set the stone

Run the pump and adjust the stone until you get a

strong stream. Shims and a 2x4 “bridge” hold the

fountain stone in position until the adhesive or

mortar hardens.

Page 6: How to Build a Concrete Fountain - Step by Step.pdf

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