7/31/2019 Hemispheres: Showing Off
2/3
PHOTOCREDITTK-REMOVEIFEMPTY
34
DISPATCHES || FOOD & DRINK
PLUM JOB
A ginsmith looksto Long Islandbeaches forinspiration
While the
abundanceof fresh fruit
during harvest
season spurs
some people to
make pies Steven
DeAngelo only has eyes
for gin. The money market
broker turned microdistiller
started the Brooklyn company
Greenhook Ginsmiths last
February to sell his
American-style dry
gin. But after dis-
covering beach
plumstiny
sweet-tart
stone fruitsindigenous to
the North-
easthe seized
on the chance to
incorporate a fruit
as native to New York
as he is. (In fact one of
the places DeAngelo lived while
A LITTLE SLICEOF HEAVEN
Big Apple pizzerias step uptheir game
NEW YORK HAS ALWAYS been a pizza
town. As long as anyone can remember, the
eat-it-while-you-walk slice has ruled as a
cheap, tasty source of sustenance. Recently,
though, things have begun to change. Like
a fancy condo in a formerly downtrodden
neighborhood, the humble pizza has gone
upscale. People talk about pizzaiolosas if
theyre rock stars. Food critics scrutinize
sauce-to-cheese ratios.Examples of the form can be found in
the
unlikeliest places. Robertas, in an industrial
stretch of Brooklyns Bushwick neighbor-
hood, serves an excellent wood-fired pie
(small enough to be eaten solo) topped
with homemade mozzarella. Artichoke
Basilles boasts three Manhaan locations,
block-long lines and a signature pizza that
comes loaded with cheese, alfredo sauce
and artichokes. Paulie Gees Pizza in Green-
point adorns its pies with hot honey, pickled
grapes and bacon marmalade.
Paul Giannone (a.k.a. Paulie Gee) typi-
fies the new generation of New York pizza
artisans. Trim, chay and wearing thick-
framed eyeglasses, the former computer
geek became so obsessed with pizza 15
years ago that he purchased a pizza oven
from Naples, which he had no idea how to
use, and installed it in his New Jersey home.
He opened his eatery in 2010 and has been
wowing the pie cognoscenti ever since.
I see my restaurant as a variation of
a true Napoli restaurant, says Giannone,
59. I thought of puing this place in New
Jersey, but I wanted
to impress my fellow
pizza enthusiasts.
MICHAEL KAPLAN
LIZZKUEHL(PIZZA)
AMERICAN PIE
Paulie Gees CherryJones with driedbing cherries
Showing Off.Dinner and a movie gets a makeover in Brooklyn
If you love to eat at the movies but arent into massive tubs of
pop-
corn and boxes of candy the size of Dostoyevsky novels
theres
always the dine-in theater. There you can sit at a table and
eat
massive tubs of fries and burgers the size of Dostoyevsky
novels.
Alternatively you could visit Brooklyns Nitehawk Cinema a
year-old Williamsburg theater-restaurant that presents feature
films
alongside dishes like smoked-salmon deviled eggs stued
piquillo
peppers and fish tacos with slaw and chipotle mayo.
The refined fare and full bar would be enough to make
Nitehawk
a draw but owner and executive director Matthew Viragh chef
Russell Dougherty and bar manager Jen Marshall also create
signa-ture dishes and drinks to accompany each new release. They
may
play oanything from an actors name (Goslings Black Seal Rum
and
Goslings Ginger Beer formed a cocktail called The Driver to
honor
7/31/2019 Hemispheres: Showing Off
3/3
OCTOBER 2012 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
Ryan Goslings performance in Drive)
to a films locale (Woody Allens To
Rome With Love inspired baccal fritto
alla Romana fried salted cod with
imported Grana Padanocheese).
Each movie requires about two new
dishes and a specialty cocktailand
with three theaters that keeps thekitchen sta moving at a
breakneck
pace. Not that they mind. Theres
nothing more rewarding than add-ing your own creative expression
to
the filmmakers visionsays Viragh.MATTHEW WEXLER
growing up in and around the city
was near a clutch of beach plum
bushes but he says he didnt realize
their significance until recently.)
The result is Beach Plum Gin
Liqueur a sloe gininspired spirit
made by macerating Long Island
grown beach plums in Greenhooks
original recipe (flavored with junipercoriander and elderflower
among
other things) then mixing it with
turbinado sugar. The ruby-colored
fruit-forward liquor adds blush and
sweetness to a classic G&T. Or drink
it as DeAngelo does: splashed with
prosecco in a deliciously amped-up
version of the Bellini. LEAH KOENIG
THERE WILL BE
BLOOD ORANGE
Scenes from thefoodie-friendly
Nitehawk Cinema
IIF YOUR WINE COULDCHOOSE A GLASS
IT WOULD BE RIEDEL.
UNITED0812PROMOTION-CODE
RIEDEL.COM
SAVE $20 OFF OF YOURNEXT PURCHASE*
*Promotion valid until 12/31/2012 only at Riedel Online-Shops
for purchasestarting at $100. Cannot be used in conjunction with
any other promotion.
The coupon has no cash value.
