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Freesurf Magazine Volume 10 Number 2
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MADE
Volu
me
10 N
umbe
r 2
PARKO PiPeline Pe’Ahi+ +
Big
Deal
in Hawaii Eli Olsen Photo: Tony Heff
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Free Parking
Derek Dunfee says hello to Pe’ahi’s inside bowl. Photo: Tony Heff
Table of ConTenTsBillabong Pipe Masters
Aperture
Parko Interview
Free Parking
Cover Story
Editor’s Note
News & Events
She Rips
Environment
Surf Art
Grom Report
Industry Notes
Last Look
Features
Departments
22
34
52
6
12
14
16
62
66
70
72
76
80
Mah
ina
wea
ring
San
Lor
enzo
Pho
to: J
essi
ca W
erth
eim
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Catch Billabong Surf TV
Mon 11:30pm
Tue 5:30am 1:30pm
Wed 8:30pm
Thu 2:30am
Fri 4:30am 3:00pm
Sun 6:00am
And don’t forget Board Stories
Mon 2:00pm
Tue 11:30am
Wed 8:00pm
Thu 2:00am
Fri 6:00am
Sat 5:00am
Sun 7:00am
Editorial
Publisher: Mike Latronic
Managing Editor: Lauren Shanahan
Editor -at- Large : Chris Latronic
Staff Photographers : Tony Heff, Tyler Rock, Mike Latronic, Taylor Ivison, Chris
Latronic
Art Director : John Weaver
Multimedia Director : Tyler Rock
Free Thinkers : Tiffany Foyle, Matt Luttrell, Nick Carroll
Office Manager: Amy Withrow
Contributing Photographers
Eric Baeseman (Outbluffum.com), Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Kyle
Burnett, Kelly Cestari/ASP, Quincy Dein, Patrick Devault, Brooke Dombroski, Paul
Fisher, Tiffany Foyle, Pete Frieden, Greg Huglin, Erik Ippel, Bryce Johnson, Ha'a
Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Kin Kimoto, Bruno Lemos, Gary Miyata, Trevor Moran/A-
Frame, Zak Noyle, Sean Reilly, Sebastian Rojas, Jim Russi, Epes Sargent, Kirstin
Scholtz/ASP, Jason Shibata, Batel Shimi, Gina Sinotte, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor,
Patrick Vieira, Jessica Wertheim, Peter Joli Wilson
Sales
Senior Sales Executive : Sean Wingate, Mike Takahashi
Advertising Executive : Shaun Lopez, Maile Botelho
Business Coordinator : Cora Sanchez
Advertising Inquiries
Manuele Inc.
808-638-7395
www.freesurfmagazine.com
FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba
Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select
specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick
up FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble
and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask
for it by name at your local surf shop!
Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com
Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not
accept unsolicited editorial submissions without
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Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible
for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their
return.
One-way correspondence can be sent to
P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712
E-mail editorial inquiries to
A product of Manulele, Inc. 2012
Please recycle thismagazine, mahalo.
Watch Board Stories and Billabong Surf TV on OC16 - Channel 12, or 112 digital in Hawai`i or at OC16.tv
Ollie
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PLUS
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www.jambahawaii.com
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Cover Story
If you’ve been watching the north shore talent surge this past
year, then you probably have seen Eli Olsen charging harder than
ever. From successfully battling the daily grind at Pipeline to
finding victory in avid pursuits of epic paddle sessions at Jaws,
this north shore bred, Sunset Beach Elementary School alumni
wave magnet has been making his presence well felt in the
surfing world.
Excelling in waves of consequences, Eli didn’t fail to spark
interests to bid for his allegiance after his former patron, Analog,
found its destiny away from the surfing lifestyle; showing off
enough vigor and prowess to have earned the mark of surf
industry big, O’Neill. And after cruising in the same O’Neill
house time and again with good friend and former O’Neill rider
John John Florence, he can now officially call it home.
Taking a spot next to new teammates like bulldog big wave
virtuoso Mark Mathews, goofy foot connoisseur Cory Lopez,
Cali-barrel magician Timmy Reyes, and big gun world tour
contender Jordy Smith for good measure… Look out for Eli trying
to drop in steeper and deeper than these monoliths of surfitude.
To add even more icing to his cake, Eli snatches this month’s
cover of Freesurf. Showcased in a pristine backdoor nugget, Mr.
Olsen showed Andy Irons-like composure under a heaving lip
section, displaying what it takes to be a BIG EFF’N DEAL during
winter seasons on the North Shore.
Eli
Ols
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loha freesurfers! It’s 2013 and it finally
looks like winter! Been awhile since
it rained more then 3 days straight… But
that’s a good thing! We love the rain and
wind here... It makes our waves. And
more is on the horizon. Yes! It’s a big
deal! Well, maybe not to the common
surfer like me. Don’t get me wrong; I
love a good adrenaline rush. But going
out to chase death defyingly big surf...
Let’s just say I’m not quite there yet. But
to warriors of the ocean, it is a BIG deal.
These guys spend their lives tracking
storms that can give them their potential
fix. Sometimes I ponder the mentality of
these wave gladiators, do they have an
adrenaline imbalance? Maybe someday
a clinical study will emerge to educate
us more... But until then, as an avid surf
watcher, to all those who fearlessly seek
out this lifestyle; I salute you and am
thankful for your aspirations (even if you
got some screws loose). We love you
here at Freesurf! You keep us busy ;)
The new year of 2013 ended and began
in epic fashion, gracing the isles with a
Editor’s NoteStarting 2013 Off With a Bang!
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late-Christmas offering of supreme WNW
swells. Starting the New Year off right!
Droves of eager spectators and surfers
(but mostly spectators) began their influx
to the northern shores to witness the
magic of the ocean’s wrath. To see strong
willed men and women risk life and limb
for a few seconds of cerebral bliss on
top of a monster of water. It is quite the
addictive sight. In this issue we highlight
our exclusive interview with newly
crowned king of surfing Joel Parkinson,
introduce you to the latest woman who’s
been sneaking into heroine bombs at
Waimea, and check out the latest surf
prodigy who’s been making waves from
the Big Island.
Freesurf was also on hand to document
this year’s superb delivery of waves.
Chasing the action as it graced pristine
Waimea Bay and Pipeline on Oahu,
and Pe’ahi (Jaws) of northern Maui...
And I have to mention, we’ve just seen
big wave paddle-in surfing reach ever
exceeding levels of gnar. With the Red
Bull Jaws Paddle at Pe’ahi and Quiksilver
in Memory of Eddie Aikau contests set
to go at anytime, we should get used to
seeing Pipeline-sized crowds during every
capable swell from here on out. So get
ready for more ground breaking big wave
triumphs to be had, cause this year has
already set pretty high marks.
With Seabass blazing onto the world
tour in heroic style, Parko finally winning
a well-deserved world title, the US
government evading a fiscal cliff and a few
presumed apocalyptic days gone false, it’s
turning out to be a pretty crazy interesting
year. I guess the only way to avoid late-
drops is to charge ‘em hard, right? So
from the Freesurf family, live well, live
healthy, no worries, no fear, Chance ‘em,
charge ‘em, and be happy in 2013! Hope
to see you in the water, (even if I’m just
watching you from shore) Aloha!
- Chris Latronic
Editor-at-Large
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News & eveNts
he 43rd Surf N Sea Haleiwa International Open
presented by Hurley, the longest running amateur
surf contest, absolutely fired in 2012. Huge WNW swells
made a tear down the north shore, bringing some
of the gnarliest surf the HIO has seen in some time.
Rolling peaks of 4 to 6 feet made for plenty of scoring
opportunities and exciting exchanges.
The senior men’s division was dominated by
performances of Jock Sutherland and ‘Big Wave’ Dave
DeMarkle, who slashed it out side by side all the way
to the finals with Uncle Jock taking top honors. In the
masters division, a similar suited pair was Rainos Hayes
and Mike Latronic. The renowned world team coach and
Freesurf’s own publisher impressed the judges with their
vintage style and veteran rail work all the way to the
finals.
The second day was for the girls and boys. The swell
dropped to a fun sized 2 to 4 foot in the morning, allowing
for perfect rights and lefts. But the swell built swiftly
toward the afternoon, unsheathing some massive sets
and putting the young field of groms to the test.
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Rainos Hayes, Master’s Shortboard division winner.
Isaiah Moniz, Junior’s Shortboard division winner.
43rd surf n sea Haleiwa International open presented by Hurley
The coveted junior’s division frothed as they experienced the
peak of the swell the next morning. Displaying some of the most
progressive surfing of the event proved that Hawaii’s junior surf
scene is healthy and ready for the next level.
Without a hiccup, there is no doubt that the 2012 Haleiwa
International Open was nothing short of exceptional. Pumping in
solid waves for all divisions and with each contestant enjoying
4 man heats, victory or defeat, everyone couldn’t help but feel
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News & eveNts
Honolua Bloomfield, Girl’s Longboard division winner.
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Jock Sutrherland, Senior’s Longboard division winner.like a winner. But below are the results of the extraordinary
standouts:
Congrats to everyone who participated in the 2012 Haleiwa
International Open. Mahalos to Jason Shibata, Joel Centeio,
Zen Yoshifuku, and the entire HIO crew for coming together
and putting on a fantastic community event!
Japan Men
1. Kai Matsumoto
2. Shuji Kasuya
3. Shimpei Horiguchi
Boys
1. Imaikalani DeVault
2. Kalani David
3. Seth Moniz
Juniors
1. Isaiah Moniz
2. Ezekiel Lau
3. Makai McNamara
Men
1. Matty Costa
2. Kanoa Dahlin
3. EJ Mitsui
Masters
1. Rainos Hayes
2. Mike Latronic
3. Chris Owens
Seniors
1. Ricardo Silva
2. Bitch Pereirra
3. Jock Sutherland
Women
1. Dax McGill
2. Bailey Nagy
3. Mahina Maeda
Women LB
1. Honolua Bloomfield
2. Ashley Ahina
3. Kui Adric
Men LB
1. Ikaika Kalama
2. Nelson Ahina III
3. Robin Mark
Master LB
1. Gino Bell
2. Kalani Foster
3. Brent Cooper
Results
Senior LB
1. Jock Sutherland
2. Warren Hoohuli
3. Dave Sherman
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Verizon Hawaii Team Goes to ChinaThe ISA has announced the 2nd edition of the Hainan Wanning
Riyue Bay International Surfing Festival, the first event of the ISA
China Cup. Slotted for this past January 25th-30th, this invitation-
only surf event was decided to run a second year due to its large
success in 2012. ISA President Fernando Aguerre says last year’s
Surfing Festival “produced the largest media audience ever in the
history of the ISA.” Marked as the second ASP event ever in China
that counts toward the ASP Men’s World Ranking, we’re sending
out our congratulations to this year’s Verizon Hawaii team members:
Sunny Garcia
Kapio Jaquias
Kaolia Kahokuloa
Dustin Cuizon
Nage Melamed
Alessa Quizon
Hasa / nssa Upcoming events
Maili Point / (Ulehawa Beach Park #2 February 2,3,9,10 HASA #8
Pinetrees February 26th & 27th NSSA #8
Sandy Beach March 2,3,9,10 HASA
March 2013 NSSA Hawaii Championships/Open, Explorer, and Airshow
Haleiwa Beach (Ali’i) April 13, 14, 20, 21 HASA
Ala Moana Bowls April 25, 26, 27, 28 HASA State Championship
ASP / HIC Pro Jr Kuhio Beach Aug 19-22
Check freesurfmagazine.com for complete Hawaii surfing events
OahuOutrigger WaikikiHilton Hawaiian VillageWaikiki Beach WalkSheraton Princess Kaiulani KauaiPoipu Shopping VillageAnchor Cove
MauiWhalers Village, KaʻanapaliFront StreetLahaina Cannery MallSouth KiheiShops At Wailea
Big IslandKona Inn Shopping VillageKings’ Shops Waikoloa
HONO-FREE SURF AD-JAN_FEB.13.indd 1 12/7/12 6:03 PM
The Billabong Pipe Masters in Memory of Andy Irons is
the oldest contest in the Hawaiian Islands. It is surfing’s
SuperBowl. And it is surfing’s World Series, Olympics and
World Cup all wrapped into one. While crazier waves have
made appearances over the past four decades, Pipeline
remains the benchmark by which all surfers are judged. Pipe
will always remain surfing’s Mecca because A) it’s Hawaii and
B) as a venue, the Banzai is the one surf spot in the world that
most closely mimics a Coliseum. And as everyone knows,
sport is best when athletes perform in front of cheering
masses.
PiPeMastersBy Matt Luttrell
Mark “Occy” Occhilupo summed it up best during this year’s
Billabong Pipe Masters in Memory of Andy Irons, “It’s the
greatest show on Earth.” As anyone who has watched the
event from the beach can attest, the former Pipe Master
and world champion wasn’t spitting hyperbole. No other surf
contest holds a candle next to the Pipe Masters. And this
year’s event was even more electric than normal. For the first
time since 2009, the world title race would be coming down
to the final event of the year, and the surf world was buzzing.
Would it finally be Joel Parkinson’s year to win his first world
title? Could Mick Fanning pull off the impossible by winning a
3rd championship? Or would it be the 12th world title for Kelly
Latr
onicBillaBong
in MeMory of andy irons
Slater, the greatest surfer of all time? The drama pitting 2012’s top
three ranked surfers was something out of Shakespeare.
Mother Ocean must have been excited about the world title race
also, because she sent the Banzai Pipeline a thumping eight-to-ten
foot west northwest swell on the first day of the waiting period.
The first true Pipe swell of the season handed out great barrels
and brutal beatings to both the ASP Top 34 and the eight Hawaii
wild cards. An excited Saturday crowd saw defending champ
Kierren Perrow hit the water first, starting right where he left off
in 2011 by defeating Pipe specialist Evan Valiere in a hard fought
duel. Not all of the Top 34 were as fortunate as Perrow. The Hawaii
wild cards proved especially dangerous, with Kalani Chapman,
Billy Kemper and former Pipe Master Jamie O’Brien all taking
Round 1 victories. Triple Crown leader Sebastian “Seabass”
Zietz continued his sizzling Triple Crown form, handedly
beating Glenn Hall in the last Round 1 heat of the day. Plenty
of spitting barrels and poundings throughout the first day had
the beach crowd ready for Day 2.
With the waves still firing on Sunday, contest organizers
made the wise call to run Day 2 of the Billabong Pipe Masters
in Memory of Andy Irons. The previous day’s long period
swell had dropped off just a tad, down to six-to-eight foot,
Latr
onic
and the slightly smaller conditions opened
up Backdoor much to the delight of the
regular-footers. All eyes were on the 3rd
heat of the day, with Kauai’s Sebastian
Zietz going up against South African tube-
slayer Travis Logie. The eleven-fingered
surfer’s luck continued, with Seabass
winning the round 2 heat by .56 points.
Just two heats later, Adam Melling lost
his round 2 heat to an in-form Miguel
Pupo. Melling’s loss gave the young
Kauaian his first Triple Crown title. To
the delight of the crowd on the beach,
Seabass was chaired on his surfboard all
the way from the Oakley house down to
the podium in front of Pipe. Never has a
Triple Crown victor received his trophy
with more panache and style than the
man they call Seabass. The fairy tale
continued just an hour later, as Sebastian
Zietz found himself in the first heat of
Round 3 against John John Florence.
Still drenched in beer, Seabass faced
one of the greatest surfers Pipe has
ever known, and emerged triumphant.
Uncharacteristically poor wave choices by
Florence, combined with Zietz catching
the best waves during the 40-minute
heat, saw John John bow out in his first
heat of the event.
Round 3 saw the event’s top surfers first
surf of the event, and all eyes were on
Heat 6. Joel Parkinson, the number one
rated surfer in the world coming into
the event, had drawn local threat Kalani
Chapman in his heat. Parko kept busy,
and found his rhythm early in the heat.
With just three minutes left, Parkinson
found a Backdoor nugget, which he surfed
perfectly for a nine point score. Three
heats later, Kelly Slater hit the water to
face wildcard Billy Kemper. The world’s
number two ranked surfer earned the
highest heat score of Round 3 with a
deep Pipe left and backing it up with a set
Backdoor wave, handedly beating an in-
form Kemper to keep his 12th world title
dream alive. Mick Fanning wasn’t as lucky
as Parko and Slater in his Round 3 bout
as the 2-time champ drew Shane Dorian.
White Lightening lost an extremely
close battle against the Big Island heavy
water commando, setting the stage for
a possible Parko/Slater match up in the
finals. Before day 2 wrapped up, the first
two heats of the no-elimination round
4 heats went down. Sebastian Zietz
again took care of business, smoking
Damien Hobgood and Dane Reynolds
in his heat, and advancing directly into
the quarterfinals. In the last heat of the
day, Joel Parkinson surfed lights out,
annihilating C.J. Hobgood and Kierren
Perrow in a lopsided heat. Parko nabbed
every single good wave, comboing both
of these talented Pipe surfers with a
tremendous performance.
Needing just one more day to complete
the contest, event officials had to make
an extremely tough call to run the final
King Kelly in all his glory, giving the lucky Pipe fans a show.
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Yadin Nicol en route to an equal 5th place, his best Pipe finish yet. Josh Kerr didn’t make the final without taking a few beatings.
day of competition with 6 days remaining in the waiting period.
With the winds looking terrible until December 20th, Vans Triple
Crown of Surfing Executive Director Randy Rarick made the tough
call to run the 3rd day in some pretty dicey looking conditions.
Once the horn blew, the shifty 6-foot peaks offered up tricky tubes
for Josh Kerr, Gabriel Medina and Kelly Slater. Josh Kerr ends up
winning the heat despite injuring his shoulder. King Kelly had a
shocker of a heat, never finding rhythm or a wave with a clean
exit. Relegated to Round 5, Slater regained his fighting form and
put on a clinic against young Miguel Pupo, easily waltzing into
the quarterfinals. Joel Parkinson’s first surf of the final day was
his quarterfinal match up with Pipe standout C.J. Hobgood. Parko
kept calm in the wave starved heat, surfing smart by collecting a
small Backdoor runner and backing it up with a wonky left at Pipe
to keep his title dreams alive. In what was the heat of the day,
Kelly Slater faced best friend Shane Dorian in the last quarterfinal
as the waves completely turned on. Both of the bald Momentum
Generation surf stars put on clinic in Backdoor barrel riding. With
most of the beach believing Dorian was underscored on his best
wave of the heat, Slater squeaked through the heat, and it looked
like everyone’s dream of a Hollywood-style Parko/Slater final was
imminent.
The waves continued to pulse in the first semifinal, pitting Joel
Parkinson against the sole remaining goofy footer left in the event,
Damien Hobgood. (It’s interesting to note that a goofy footer has
not won the Billabong Pipe Masters since Rob Machado claimed
victory at the Banzai back in 2000. With the majority of scoring
waves coming from the rights at Backdoor, maybe Billabong
should consider renaming the event the Billabong Backdoor
Masters?) From the beginning of the heat, it was obvious that
Parko was going to win the match up. Parkinson had the mojo,
plain and simple. Parko scoured the shifty lineup and always found
himself in the right spot for the best scoring waves. After his
commanding semifinal win, Parko retreated to the Billabong house
to watch Slater take on Josh Kerr. While the energy on the beach
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Shane Dorian nearly took out Slater in the quarters,
putting in a stellar performance at Backdoor.
Pipeline came alive just in time for this year’s Billabong
Pipe Masters after a slow start to the winter.
Sebastian Zietz earned his first berth into the Billabong
Pipe Masters with his strong Triple Crown showing.
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was electric, the wave god decided to turn off the wave switch during
the second semifinal, making for a bizarre heat. Kerr managed to nab
the first wave of the heat, a clean Backdoor barrel, and exited into the
channel with a score of 9.20. Meanwhile, Kelly Slater didn’t even make
a wave during the heat, getting pinched on both of his scoring waves at
Backdoor for a combined score of 4.9 points. Kelly’s shocker of a heat
meant that all eyes were focused on Joel Parkinson. Parko nervously
watched Kelly Slater desperately scramble around the lineup for 25
minutes from his bedroom lanai. When the horn finally blew, the beach
erupted for Joel Parkinson. The four-time World Title runner-up hugged
his wife and friends before being chaired up to receive his long coveted
crown.
It’s hard to make the finals of the Billabong Pipe Masters anti-climatic,
but Parko winning the world title usurped all the remaining drama. As
Kerr and Parko paddled out for the final, it was practically pre-ordained
that unless a meteor hit the Earth, Parkinson was going to win the
event. Josh Kerr didn’t back down an inch and surfed impressively in the
blustery conditions, but it was Parko’s day. Despite trailing for the first
23 minutes, Parkinson styled through two Backdoor nuggets to earn
his first contest victory of the season, and his very first Billabong Pipe
Masters victory. It was a fitting end to an incredible 2012.
billabong Pipe Masters Results
1 – Joel Parkinson (AUS) 17.17
2 – Josh Kerr (AUS) 14.83
BILLABONG PIPE MASTERS SEMIFINALS RESULTS:
SF 1: Joel Parkinson (AUS) 17.30
def. Damien Hobgood (USA) 14.63
SF 2: Josh Kerr (AUS) 11.13
def. Kelly Slater (USA) 4.90
Ces
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/ AS
PB
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A determined Joel Parkinson, took the 2012 Billabong Pipe Masters and ASP World Title
Ces
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16 Year old Landon McNamara goes big during the historic Cortes Bank session. Photo: Greg Huglin
Mahalo for your support!
Aperture
Ricardo dos Santos standing at attention at Pipeline. Photo: Kyle Burnett
Connor Baxter braves the left at JAWS. Photo: Heff
Jamie O’Brien right at home in the green room at Pipe. Photo: Patrick Vieira
Ian Gouveia gunning for the front door at Pipe. Photo: Mike Latronic
Mark Healey, evening delight at Pipeline. Photo: Jim Russi
Billy Kemper taking the plunge at Pe’ahi. Photo: Tony Heff
Nils Schweizer, driving through the Backdoor. Photo: Ippel Films / Red Digital Cinema
Anthony Walsh enjoying the moment at Pipeline. Photo: Joli
Tyler Larronde joins the paddle crew at Pe’ahi. Photo: Tony Heff
Dusty Payne, poised and positioned at Pipeline. Photo: Joli
Jonah Morgan taking advantage of local status at Pipeline. Photo: Sebastian Rojas
The drop at Waimea will always hold a special place in surfing. Kahea Hart and friends. Photo: Taylor Ivison
Gavin Beschen finding a line at Pipe. Photo: Taylor Ivison
Hawaii wasn’t the only place going off at the end of the year. 16-year old Landon McNamara made the long trek to Cortes Bank to turn some heads. Photo:Greg Huglin
Kirs
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The relief won’t wear off for months. Of his generation’s world champs, Joel Parkinson is the one who’s done the most in pursuit
of the crown – the guy who’s simultaneously been the one most expected and the one least lucky. He’s been blessed with the
smoothest rail carving style on the planet, praised by everyone in the sport, yet he’s had to watch over and over as his buddies, Mick
Fanning, Andy Irons, and Steph Gilmore have picked up the silverware. He’s had fin gashes, broken ankles, and visits to the sports
psychologist while they’ve had their dreams come true. Now he’s got that title, the one (as Sunny Garcia told everyone on Parko’s
victory night) that nobody can take away from him, the one that etches him into the sport’s history. There hasn’t been a more popular
result in years.
Yet despite his popularity and his two Triple Crowns, I bet there’s many surfers outside his home nation, hell outside his home town,
who don’t know much about the new world champion. Partly because he’s humble by nature and doesn’t love the interview process;
partly because his friends have attracted more of the limelight; partly because he’s been around for a while, and we all know what
that means as far as surf PR goes, with the rare exception of KS. So what the heck, let’s fill you in on the man with the big nose and
even bigger cutback.
Joel Parkinson was born April 10, 1981 on the Sunshine Coast of Queensland, three hours’ drive north of the better
known Gold Coast. The Parkinson’s – Dad Brian and uncle Darryl – were a well-known surfing family, and
Joel grew up around the ocean, surfing and fishing in Queensland’s warm waters. His big boyhood
Intro by Nick Carroll
P a r k oK
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surfing buddy was Nathan Hedge, whose Dad Greg was
best mates with Brian Parkinson. The family eventually
split and around the age of 13, he moved with Brian down
to the Goldie, where he was initiated into the mysteries
of Kirra by new friend Dean Morrison. The pair would take
days off school to surf the magic barrel-world whenever it
broke, once or twice scoring it almost to themselves.
In the late 1990s Joel and Dean, along with fellow
recent Gold Coast émigré Mick Fanning, were part of a
generation busting crew of young Aussie surfers, including
Hedgey, Dave Rastovich, Damon Harvey, Bede Durbidge,
Ace Buchan and a dozen more young hotshots. In a nation
defined by competitive surfing success, they restored
pride in the sport, a pride badly dented by Kelly Slater’s
dominance. They didn’t all follow the pro tour pathway.
Rasta set off to save the cetaceans, Harvey went into
business – but the ones who did all had major success.
Now Parko, perhaps the best of them all, has put his
name on the big list.
Back in 2001, as he was setting out into WCT Land, Joel
made the cover of Australia’s Surfing Life magazine with a
quote: “I wanna be the funnest surfer ever.” As goals go,
it’s not a bad one. But he’s gone on to be a bit more than
that.
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Do you remember your first wave, or your first experience
in the ocean?
I was four years old and we were on a camping trip with my
parents and we were there with Nathan Hedge’s family, and
we surfed this little place called Double Island Point. It was
1-foot whitewater and I remember being on Dad’s board like,
‘Yeah’, just circle-working these 1-foot closeout white waters
and thinking, this is amazing. That was my first real memory
of surfing. My dad said he pushed me onto waves before
that, but that was the first time I really had a go myself, and
I remembered that surf. It was unbelievable. And then I think
for Christmas that next year I got my first board. I remember
another little place we surfed when I was six and I remember
going to the beach and surfing this one wave. It must have
been just the right day for me, you know 1-foot little runners. I
remember those little moments. It’s probably the same feeling
I get today with a good wave or a good day of surfing.
When did you know you wanted to be a pro surfer?
I was twelve when Kelly Slater’s Black and White came out. I
remember thinking, ‘wow, that’s what I want to do. I want to
surf like that. I want to win contests and be world champion’.
As I got older I went to high school with Mick and Dean.
Deano was so far in front of us surfing. He won everything.
Mick and I would just battle for 2nds and 3rds. And there was
another guy Damon Harvey, and that was our little four-pack.
All of a sudden we went to the Under 16 World Grommet
finals in Bali. It was always a dream. When you’re 12 years old
you want to be world champion and as you get older you see
reality and think, ‘maybe I can just make it on the tour’. Then
once you’re on the tour, you go back to that same dream when
you were 12, of wanting to be world champion.
How important is confidence?
It’s a huge thing. Confidence comes in a few different ways.
Sometimes you wake up confident. Sometimes you wake up
sluggish. You just don’t know. You have those heats where
mother nature just keeps sending you those waves. All of
sudden you’ve got two 9’s fifteen minutes into the heat, and
she’ll keep giving waves. And then there are times when you
paddle out and you’re scrapping around for 4’s, and a 5 or 6 is
a huge score. I think those are the times when you can feel
that confidence when you need it. For me, when I had those
dogfight heats, I feel confident now. Not like in the past when
it all bubbles up and you’re gasping for air.
Were there any adjustments (emotionally or psychologically)
you made this year?
The year before last I got pretty… not burnt out, but it was just
heat after heat. This year I thought, ‘Enjoy it.’ From the first heat
at Snapper, I was thinking, ‘I’m having fun. I’m going to enjoy it.
Win or lose, even if I’m stuck behind, I need a combination of two
scores, whatever I need’. If you push me in a corner I’m going to
fight my way out. In France I lost a heat to Kelly in the semifinals.
The waves were good. We had a good heat. I didn’t come out
of one barrel, but by the time I got up to the competitors area I
thought, ‘that was fun’. Having those kinds of heats where, win
or lose you go out there and enjoy it. Feeling confident seemed to
work well for me this year.
Was this Billabong Pipe Masters stressful?
The whole time in the water I was telling myself, ‘Leave it all in
the water.’ I wanted to come in and know I gave it my all. I enjoyed
it. It’s what we’re here to do. It’s why we surf. I free surf for
enjoyment and I surf contests for enjoyment. I don’t want to get
to the end of an event and feel like it wasn’t enjoyable but you got
the right result. You’re in it to enjoy it.
How did you get so comfortable with Pipeline?
I don’t know. The same way I did with Teahupoo. Five years ago
you wouldn’t have thought Mick and I would be in the final of
Teahupoo together. When you’ve got a competitive nature, born
and bred in you, you quickly adapt to places and waves. And Pipe’s
one of those places where it can be really hard. Not only getting
waves in a free surf, but learning the wave. It takes a little longer.
You can’t just come to Pipe for a swell and think you’re going to
get every wave. You can go to Teahupoo and just find it uncrowded
and learn it quickly, but Pipe’s a lot harder to figure out. Especially
directions. The trades. There’s so many variables out there. It’s not
always perfect, that’s for sure.
Do you wish that you faced Kelly in the finals of Pipe Masters?
As long as it was the same result, I would be happy. It would
have been crazy. If I had to face Kelly in the final, that would have
tested me emotionally for sure. He was on fire. Every heat he
was getting 18’s and 19’s, so it would have been unbelievable for
a spectator to see it come down, but I thank Josh for what he did,
he killed it.
Do you feel Andy wanted you to win Pipe since you were such
good friends?
Well, he’s a friend to all of us. I couldn’t be more honored to win
this contest in honor of him. The Gerry Lopez board I have has AI
on it, which is amazing. It’s definitely one of my proudest trophies.
You said you felt like a champ when you woke up Friday
morning, how did you feel when you woke up Saturday
morning?
The next morning was a little cloudy. My nervous system was
shot from the day before. Just so much emotion. It wasn’t till this
morning (Sunday morning) waking up when I thought, ‘Wow, it
feels amazing.’ It feels like it has sunk in now.
Was there ever a point when you thought you could win this?
Yeah, Friday morning. I woke up and I kind of had that feeling,
I’m not going to lose today. I just wasn’t going to accept it. I just
had that will to do it. I kept telling myself, ‘Get the s#!* out of my
head, take out all the bad stuff. There is one thing to do and I’m
going to do it. I’m not gonna lose.’ Even when I had those couple
of shaky heats where I was behind, I was just thinking, ‘No, this
isn’t happening.’
After four 2nd place finishes, what was your mindset coming
into Pipeline?
As I said, I wasn’t going to let myself lose. I did not want to have
five bridesmaids, I did not want to have that tag of the best surfer
to never win a world title. If I lost, I’d probably still be locked in
my bedroom crying. I just didn’t want that feeling. I wanted that
enjoyment feeling, I wanted the winning feeling.
Is there a psychology to winning?
The psychology of winning is never give up, never say die. It’s
confidence and the right attitude. The bummer about surfing is
we have mother nature to deal with. Like Kelly’s heat (semifinals).
Kelly was amazing. He had two of the most amazing heats and
then he paddled out for the semis. When ever have you seen Kelly
get a 2 and a 3 at Backdoor for half an hour? Mother nature. If you
get a good wave it just doesn’t want to let you out and it clamps
and swipes your board out from under your feet, it’s the way it
is. We’re not swimming in straight lines. We’re not running. We
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Parko was one of the few World Tour Surfers to paddle Cloubreak during the massive Volcom Fiji Pro swell.
got mother nature, which is 50% plus of
surfing contests.
Do you think there is a 6th sense or
rhythm thing at play in surfing?
Definitely. I think so. You see the way
Kelly reads it. You just have to look at
the way people are paddling around the
lineup to where the waves you think are
coming. There’s little subtleties like that
that people do to hunt down good waves.
Some things you gotta learn like that.
When you needed that 7 against
Hobgood, was it patience or did you
call out to the Parko god?
No, I called out the AI gods (laughs). I was
like, ‘AI, where are you brother? Send it in,
send it in. I need it.’
Did you feel any pressure being in the
lead since people thought you were the
underdog against Kelly?
Definitely. He’s got the best Pipe record
of anyone. He’s broken all the records.
He’s got 6 wins. I can’t even imagine how
many finals and semi-finals he’s gotten.
For sure. I was the underdog, but it was a
different year. I was a different competitor,
a different person. Three of four years
ago, it may have been too much and
overwhelming. I might have thought I was
meant to lose because it’s Kelly at Pipe.
The intimidation of it all. But if you have
enough experience, I made the final at
Pipe last year, and I really drew on that
and felt I could do it again.
Give us your opinion on style.
Style is a huge thing. Coming from the
Gold Coast, it’s all right points. MP, Rabbit,
they all used to talk about style back in
the day. Style was heavily weighted back
then. Terry Fitz, Elkerton… Remember
Elko’s thing? I used to like all those things.
Style’s not something you work on. I
couldn’t tell you how I got mine. My dad
surfs. My uncle surfs. We all surf so different. Style’s just one of those things that
just feels comfortable in the right position at the right time, balancing on a board,
but everyone’s different.
You are the smoothest surfer on tour. When you go out to surf, do you try to
be smooth or do you try and put some flair on it?
Not at all. It’s completely the opposite. At Lowers this year, I was trying to put a
little flair on my surfing. I think when you first get on tour it takes a little while for
the judges to form an opinion of how you are and get a bit of a grasp on how you
surf. Degree of difficultly. When you’re a rookie, it’s uncharted waters for them
so they like to see what you are capable of. When I first got on tour my style was
kind of green and raw as a kid. It was just the way it was. Just that real relaxed
approach. Nowadays I definitely surf with a bit more flair, and a bit more power. I
think that helps. I almost see John John the same way. So relaxed. His turns are
so amazing. Sometimes I think he makes it look really, really easy in a really hard
situation. The judges after a long day can say, ‘Ah yeah’ and write their scores
down. I think the judging is better nowadays, but there is still human error. We all
think it’s amazing as a surfer, the guys that see a difference, but it’s just a natural
progression. When you’re a kid you come out raw and your style changes as you
get older.
What is the significance of coming to Hawaii and testing your mettle?
Duke came and brought surfing to Australia. In a way it’s a father figure. Back
before I was even born the Aussie guys came in and out of Hawaii trying to prove
themselves in the waves. A lot of them connected with the place and made such
good friendships. Back when times were a little bit heavier on the North Shore,
some of the old stories are folklore, but they’re etched in surfing forever. From
whatever you do, like a Jamie Mitchell who has come here and blown doors
down in the paddle race. And the surfers that have come and won. Australians
really consider Hawaii as the biggest challenge, and I think it is.
How important is your pilgrimage to Hawaii each year?
It’s huge. It’s amazing. To come to Hawaii and win the Pipe Masters and the
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title in the same day. Hawaii is our little epicenter of the whole
surfing world. For it to come down to Pipe, it’s something I guess
you would dream of as a kid. Hawaii is really special to me. I
came here in the summer to do the Molokai race and it was
such an amazing vibe and such a good atmosphere around it. It’s
something I’ll never forget, how special it is.
Do you want to win another world title?
I think I would like to win another one, but lets just get through
Christmas and the New Year (laughs). I feel like if I can go into
the same approach next year and give it everything I got, then
hopefully I’ll be in contention again.
What is the first thing you plan on doing when you get back to
the Goldie?
My two older daughters are at home. I haven’t seen them for
about three weeks, so I can’t wait, they are so excited. I spoke to
my five year old daughter, and she said, ‘Dad, I made a big area
in the trophy room, we’re gonna put the trophy here.’ She had
already cleared the space. When I was on the phone it almost
made me cry. She was so proud of her dad. It was amazing.
Roc
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2012 ASP World Tour Champion
Pancho Sullivan Photo Latronic/Manulele Images
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she Rips
eMIlyeRICksonby lauren shanahan
Bro
oke
Dom
bros
ki
hen your first board is a 10’6 Brewer gun, perhaps
you are simply destined for big waves. Or because
your dad is a big wave charger maybe fearlessness runs in
your blood, coursing a path that exists without thought. If
natural athleticism is in your genetic makeup, then you might
have surfed massive Sunset beach during a winter swell
within your first six months of taking up the sport too. But
probably not. Because the rate that Emily Erickson picked
up surfing is ground breaking. And we haven’t seen anything
quite like her kind on the north shore. With only four years
of surfing experience, this 23-year-old female charges big
waves like it’s her career. And really, it is. Because Emi
believes that to surf good waves and live simply is what life
is all about. We couldn’t agree more.
Born on Oahu, Emily lived at Rockpiles till the age of six,
enjoying beach days that formed her early love for the
sea. Her family then moved to the east coast, where she
lived between the Outer Banks and inland Virginia, always
missing the warm ocean. After graduating high school, Emi
felt compelled to move back to the islands. “I came back to
Hawaii because of the vivid memories I had as a child.” Her
first winter back on Oahu, she body boarded big Sunset.
Once she showed an interest in surfing, her dad (the rugged
yet smooth big wave charger of the north shore, Roger
Erickson) hooked her up with his 10’6 gun. Roger was an
inspiration to surf, and he was stoked when his daughter
took up his lifelong sport. “He was probably scared for me
at first, then realized I can take care of myself. We walked
down to Sunset together a lot that first winter, and he was
always supportive.” Emi feels a strange legacy for herself out
here on the north shore, and thus has made it her life.
When asked whether or not she’d always been intrigued to
surf big waves, Emi responded, “I never gave any thought
to it, it wasn’t a plan.” Yet with a constant love for the ocean,
surfing seemed inevitable. “I love surfing big waves. It’s a
real rush and the sense of accomplishment afterwards…I
love the sense of triumph. I do it for myself and it makes
me really happy.” Speaking of doing things for you, the
only contest Emily has ever been in was the 2010 Pipeline
Women’s Pro. “Only because my boyfriend entered me,” she
laughs. “I have a different taste for waves than they’re going
to have for those kinds of competitions.”
Uninterested in competitive surfing, this free surfer feels
that mixing something lucrative with something you do out
of love just doesn’t make sense. Plain and simple. “I’m just
a different breed. I surf all kinds of boards, anything you
can think of…garage sale specials, pluggy longboards, big
wave guns and single fins. I don’t just ride modern short
boards.” Drawn to guns from the beginning, Emi collects
older boards, but her specialty is single fins. “My most
cherished board is the blue-striped single fin gun my
father gave to me, shaped with his own hands. That board
has seen everything.”
With only four years of surfing under her belt, a big
question is, what’s it like as a female in the lineup during a
big swell?
“Sometimes I feel intimidated by the people or by the
waves. Ultimately, I’m there to have a good time, so I
keep that in mind always. Even though I’m still learning,
I feel capable and try to be smart about my waves,
especially when it’s big. Being female, I don’t really know
what difference that makes. I notice a lot of guys are
really surprised if I even make a big drop. Maybe there is
some underestimation of me, but I’m in my own world out
there.”
With plenty of insight and even more stories to tell, Emi
shared with us the day that her mind was made up.
The first winter after she broke an ankle, ’09-‘10 El Nino
brought in some nasty weather and even nastier waves. To
avoid the crowd, Emi drove to Makaha where she found
“the biggest, most cleanest, best waves I had surfed up
until then.” That Christmas day brought solid 15-foot waves
her way, with only a few other people out. From the
point all the way to the west bowl, Makaha was breaking
beautifully. Racing the sections on one massive wave, Emi
recalls feeling as if she were on a cloud. The biggest high
she’s ever had, it was this wave when it sank in that she
was meant to surf big waves. “After that session I almost
blacked out, my mind was so blown,” recalls Emi. “It never
felt incredible until then”.
Without any sponsors, Emily embraces being a free surfer.
This past winter marked the first year where she decided
to make the waves her priority despite her finances.
Committed to surfing, Emily is determined to seek out
good waves and continue progressing. With only one surf
trip to speak of, Emily and her boyfriend Jensen Hassett
(another big wave charger on the NS- can you say “power
couple”?) aspire to travel more, since surfing is her goal.
She’s open to exploring the possibilities that come to her,
but mostly she’s just pure stoked on living and surfing in
Hawaii. Emily Erickson leaves us with one final thought for
the Freesurf audience: “Follow your love.” A motto to live
by, keep this in mind and may goodwill trail.
she Rips eMIly eRICkson
Gar
y M
’s C
reat
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Emily Erickson charging Waimea.
By Tiffany Foyle
In addition to some of the best waves in the world, Hawaii has
one of the best climates in the world to grow food year-round.
Unfortunately, Hawaii’s most prime Ag land that could be used
for growing food for local consumption instead hosts the largest
number of experimental biotech crop trials in the US.
Monsanto and other GMO companies tested biotech
pharmaceutical crops in Hawaii until 2006 when a federal judge
ruled that the US government did not follow proper procedure
in allowing the Hawaii trials. Now these companies mainly
grow genetically engineered seed corn in Hawaii. Statewide
acreage of GMO crops has been increasing at an average rate of
over 300 acres per year. There are approximately 15,000 acres
of genetically engineered (GE) crops in Hawaii currently. GE
seed corn is the state’s leading Ag “crop” at 10 million pounds
produced annually, even though it is not for human consumption,
is exported to mainland research facilities (therefore no local
excise taxes are collected, nor state income taxes, because
the farm product is not sold in Hawaii) and doesn’t benefit local
economy.
That means GMOs instead of food are grown in an island
chain that could be sufficient in local food production—Ancient
Hawaiians are testament it can be done. The 50th state
is dangerously dependent on importing food (85-90%) for
consumption. Dustin Barca recently got the surf world’s attention
when he paraded a bright yellow and red banner in front of the
cameras and crowd littering the beach to watch the Pipeline
Masters this winter. The banner read: “MONSANTO’S GMO
FOOD POISONS FAMILIES.”
“Being From Kauai, we are ground zero for chemical testing and
GMO crops,” Barca explains. “[GMO companies] have poisoned
the drinking water with atrazine on the Waimea-Kekaha area
and many people are getting cancer and lung diseases because
of uncontrolled open air poison testing.” Kelly Slater was also
seen running up the beach with a surfboard that said “Boycott
Monsanto.”
The New Big FiveMonsanto, Pioneer, Dow AgroSciences, Syngenta and BASF, the
largest agrochemical companies in the world, have established
research stations on the islands of Molokai, Maui, Oahu and
Kauai. As big money sugar and pineapple plantations closed
down in the 90s, agrichemical companies like Monsanto,
Syngenta and Pioneer Hi-Bred (owned by DuPont) bought much
of the high quality farmland in Hawaii because they had the
money to outbid independent farmers.
Kamehameha Schools has recently come under fire for
leasing 1,033 acres on Oahu’s North Shore prime farmland to
eNviRoNmeNt
THe PRos say no To GMo with Kala Alexander, Dustin Barca, Mark Healey, Pancho Sullivan & Crystal Thornburg-Homcy
Tiffa
ny F
oyle
“I started getting curious about GMos when I saw corn
fields popping up around Haleiwa. I initially thought
that corn was an odd crop of choice for the area. after
a year I had still never seen any local corn in the grocery
store shelves, so it made me wonder what those fields
were really all about.”—Mark Healey
“If our food can’t reproduce than those eating it
can’t reproduce and that alone is a crime against
humanity.”—Dustin barca
Monsanto since 1999. “The truth is public, we all know
that Kamehameha Schools is going against the Princess
Bernice Pauahi Bishop and her wishes on how the land
would be cared for,” says Barca. “Everybody whose
children or family members go to school there got to get
involved and the students need to get involved. Once they
all learn the truth I’m sure they will be as concerned as the
rest of us. Wake up Hawaii!”
What is a GMO?Think of the GE corn seed like books in a library. Corn
has the capacity for 50,000 genes in its DNA. Companies
like Monsanto engineer the seed to put one more gene
among that 50,000, taking one book and putting it on the
shelf right where they want it to be. Then they patent that
seed so that no one else can use it unless they pay the
company a license fee, and if they find that seed growing
in a farmer’s field (due to pollen drift or not), they can sue
for patent infringement.
In addition, one book on the GE corn shelf is a protein
from Bt, a bacteria that secretes an insecticidal toxin.
Monsanto’s argument is that the Bt toxin in GE crops
poses no danger to human health because the protein
breaks down in the human gut. However, a recently
published Canadian study entitled, “Maternal and
fetal exposure to pesticides associated to genetically
modified foods in Eastern Township of Quebec, Canada,”
(Reproductive Toxicology, May 31, 2011) found the Bt toxin
in the blood of 93 percent of pregnant women tested and
in 80 percent of their umbilical cord and fetal blood.
“GMOs are not tested before going to market—We are the
test,” exclaims big wave surfer and avid hunter/shark rider
Mark Healey. “We are at all time highs in infertility, autism
and certain types of cancers that have been linked to not
only GMO foods, but the pesticides sprayed on them.”
Label the FieldsVirtually all GE crops are designed to either produce or
sell pesticides, which makes good business sense, since
Monsanto and other agrochemical companies have long
been involved in pesticide production. GMO companies
rely on very high levels of synthetic chemicals to eliminate
pests and fertilizers because GMO seed crops need to be
grown in an almost sterile environment. “Because they
are producing a ‘non-food’ crop, regulators allow seed
growers to use harder pesticides,” Earth Justice attorney
Paul Achitoff explains. “After planting, the fields are then
left fallow for large parts of the year, leaving the fields
vulnerable to erosion and runoff of polluted soil.”
Hef
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ourt
esy
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FrankenfoodsAbout 90 percent of all soybeans, corn, canola and sugar beets
grown in the U.S. are grown from GE seed, according to data from
the U.S. Department of Agriculture (DOA). FDA guidelines state
that food containing GMOs doesn’t have to be labeled as such and
can even be labeled “all natural.”
“The scariest thing for me is seeing a person in a ‘Hazardous
Materials’ uniform spraying the crops, and then thinking about
people eating it after that,” says professional surfer and Patagonia
Ambassador Crystal Thornburg-Homcy. “Even worse we can’t
wash off the chemicals because it’s in the DNA of the crops being
grown. You can’t go home and simply wash off your pesticides and
herbicides, they are in every bite.”
Problem-SolvingOn a visit to Hawaii, Jeffrey Smith learned that the Hawaii
Department of Agriculture (HDOA) doesn’t require testing to
determine whether food crops have been contaminated by pollen
drift from biotech research crops. “The biotech industry claim
that their small buffer zones protect against contamination is
especially laughable in Hawaii and to Hawaiians who know that
seeds travel far and wide,” Smith relates, pointing out that the
biotech companies operating in Hawaii do not offer any plan for
how to deal with seed and crop movement in case of hurricanes
or flooding where GMOs may be carried out of their boundaries;
and there’s no insurance policy against resulting damage that
could occur to the environment, the economy or health. “[The
HDOA] has none of the tools necessary to protect the land and
“Hawaii needs to pass a labeling bill. I believe that like
all other ingredients, GMos must be labeled in foods.
all consumers have a right to know what they are
buying. once GMos are labeled I believe more and
more people will try to avoid them.
—Crystal Thornburg-Homcy
the people,” Smith says. “So companies like Monsanto completely call the shots and will never be held accountable.”
According to a 2011 report prepared by Plasch Econ Pacific LLC for Honolulu’s Department of Planning and Permitting. The report,
Oahu Agriculture: Situation, Outlook and Issues, an interruption in shipping for whatever reason would obviously be detrimental
to Hawaii’s dependency on imported food, the Plasch Econ Pacific report reminds us that it would also make it difficult to export,
thereby freeing about 65,000 acres statewide (according to a 2010 estimate) for replanting to supply local markets. The report
proffers that if increased food self-sufficiency were to occur, then, instead of sending dollars out of state for imported foods, more
money would be spent in Hawaii, thereby increasing jobs and incomes locally.
MA‘O Farms’ 24 acres of organic crops produce approximately 4,000 to 6,000 pounds of produce per week. There is a tangible
solution to the problem, but sustainable farming practices must become a priority for the private landowners that lease Ag land (like
Kamehameha Schools) in order to achieve food sovereignty and integrity. Labeling laws would help consumers protect themselves
and effectively lessen the profits they are currently, unknowingly contributing to GMO companies. As more surfers use their platform
as professional athletes to spread awareness, Hawaii has hope of progress.
“We all live on this planet together and most of us have children,” states Kala Alexander, who was recently featured in the “Evict
Monsanto” video campaign directed at Kamehameha Schools. “We all should be doing whatever we can to preserve the Earth. We
know these poisons aren’t good for the land or people, but none of know us know the real long-term effects for sure. It could be
worse than we can even imagine. Everyone needs to be more aware of the health of our planet as well as their own health.”
Gin
a S
inot
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Age: 9
Birthday: February 6th (Happy Birthday)
Height: 4’5”
Weight: 68 lbs
School: Innovations Public Charter, 4th grade
Current sponsors: Billabong, HIC, Eric Arakawa, Vertra, Dakine, Basik Acai, Mom & Dad.
Short board dimensions: 4’6.5”, 15.5”, 1.75”
How many boards in quiver: 3
Tell us about your first time surfing: I surfed on my dad’s back while he was body surfing.
Favorite maneuver: Getting barreled!
Best contest result: NSSA Explorer Menehune 12 and under at Kewalo Basin - 1st place.
Favorite food: Teriyaki beef burger
Favorite TV show: We don’t have cable or video games at our house.
Favorite surf movie: Trilogy
Favorite Hollywood movie: The Hunger games
Hobbies: Homework, board/card games
Favorite land sport: Basketball
Favorite Local spot: Banyans
Favorite Oahu spot: Kewalo Basin
Favorite California spot: Salt Creek
Favorite music: All sorts. Popular stuff, older “Sublime” stuff, and Jack Johnson.
Favorite Surfer(s) and why:
1. Shane Dorian - He’s a great big wave surfer, a good dad, and a wonderful friend
2. Joel Parkinson – I like his style
3. CJ Kanuha - Teaches me how to do good airs
4. Kelly Slater - Makes me want to do better
5. Sebastian Zietz – He’s humble and surfs great. Always had a smile on his face during the Triple Crown.
Other then a pro surfer, what else would you like to be: Any job that would let me surf all the time
Last words: I am really thankful for my coach Rainos Hayes. He is a really good friend, is very nice, and tells me all the things I need
to hear. He helps me out a lot.
Ehi
tu K
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Ehi
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Dr. John Jones
Dentistry
Surf with a smile
1441 Kapiolani boulevard suite 907, honolulu, hawaii 96814
808 955 0058
By Lauren Shanahan
Wyland. The most reputable name in ocean art. The name synonymous with larger-than-life marine murals. The name that turned
environmental outreach programs widespread through art and education. Known as one of the most influential artists of the
21st century, Wyland is recognized on an international level. His passion for our ocean and beaches has cracked into the world
of environmental conservancy, with a humble impact also made on the ocean-conscious north shore. During the world’s most
prestigious professional surfing events of the year, Wyland had an equally important event to share with the community.
On the night of Saturday, December 15th, 2012, Wyland Galleries Haleiwa accommodated one of the world’s most powerful
conglomerations of surf artists. Held every year during the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, the timing of this art event is no coincidence.
The 7th Annual Surf Art Show featured the inspired work of many acclaimed surf and ocean artists. Their pieces glowed against
the lit walls of the gallery through mediums of acrylic, blown glass, watercolor, photography, even gold. Very influential work was
delivered. Wyland put it well when he said, “Art is so beautiful and powerful, it can change the world.”
A public meet and greet ensued through the evening along with exclusive interviews, artwork signings, and a toast from Wyland to
all the featured artists and guests. It was a memorable event and turnout was a huge success, which continues to build every year.
Approximately 80 guests met and mingled within the rooms of the gallery. With 13 artists including Wyland plus 5 other guest artists
featured at this 7th Annual Surf Art Show, each one added a presence to the buzz and excitement of the crowd.
“Art can inspire people to not only see the beauty, but take action to protect it,” Wyland remarks. And with a gallery full of talented
young artists each hoping to bring awareness to the world, he has successfully affected the masses. Drifting through the gallery, it
doesn’t take long to see how each art piece contributes to Wyland’s mission.
suRf aRt
7TH annUal sURf aRT sHoW
Heather brownHeather’s work illustrates the colors and vibrancy of Hawaii, favoring
mediums that include acrylic, screen-printing, and linocut. Her inspiration
comes from the energy of the sea and from her tropical surroundings,
which she constantly strives to soak in. She went to school to study art
and simultaneously began surfing, and believes her art expression took the
direction of surf art on its own. With a very distinct style, Heather’s work
has spread internationally, giving fans and collectors a sense of happiness,
optimism, and a piece of Hawaii’s beauty.
David WightCapturing the essence, the liquid-ness of the ocean, is David’s main
drive behind his blown glass artwork. Combining a passion for water
and an enthrallment of molten hot glass, David came to realize that the
movement, the flow of glass blowing closely resembled the movement of
water, and sought to capture this. “Everything I’ve ever done has evolved
around water. I wanted to bring it into other people’s lives because it had
such a positive impact on mine.” It is said that David’s beautiful glass
curvatures of barreling waves help bring peace and tranquility to the home
of the collector.
steven PowerA surfer for 30 plus years and an artist with Wyland Galleries for 13,
Steven has always painted waves. Drawn to the ocean by his love for
surfing, and having an artist as a father, Steven felt compelled to not only
paint waves, but to paint them the way they actually looked in real life.
Thus his talent erupted into art pieces that depict unbelievably lifelike
scenery and landscapes, with the ocean always at the focal point. Taking
on a fantasty-esque tone, Steven’s pieces are skillfully detailed, luminous,
and shockingly beautiful.
Troy CarneyThe artist for the 2011 Vans Triple Crown posters, Troy’s work became
popular through its ability to personify the ocean with godlike qualities,
in order to give special meaning to water. Working with 12-24 karat gold,
layers upon layers of the precious metal are used to bring out different
reflections of a wave. Troy believes that both water and gold are sacred
elements, and therefore paints ocean scenes in a way that indigenous
cultures would view nature’s qualities; more special, more godlike, and
giving pointed ode to the sea. Troy also worked alongside his professional
surfing stepfather airbrushing boards for shapers such as Dick Brewer and
Mark Angell on Kauai, and his artwork depicts this passion for surfing.
Colleen WilcoxEnraptured by the beauty around her, Colleen hopes to express her own
unique interpretation of what it’s like to live in Hawaii through her art.
Surfing, hiking, spending time by the sea, and her love for the islands was
enough to inspire her to begin an art career. Although she’s been drawing
and painting since she was old enough to hold a pencil, she only began
pursuing a career three years ago. But her work speaks something much
greater; an established style where she pulls the essence and shape
from subjects. In this way Colleen creates surf art through her fluidity and
stylized island scenery depictions.
steven Valiere Darker tones of deep reds, greens, and blues accent Steven Valiere’s
unmistakable brush strokes. When asked which scenes of Kauai he most
enjoys painting, Valiere responded that none of his canvases actually
depict a true-to-life place. Rather he gathers inspiration from a wave and
then allows his work to be organic and spontaneous, yet purposeful.
His work is largely inspired by graffiti art, as well as his 50 years of
surf experience. Also influenced by popular surf artists of the 60’s,
Steven’s work is free and loose. “There’s something about surfing that’s
indescribable, the feeling. All we can do is share the emotion (of it) with
people through art.”
suRf aRt
Photos courtesy of Signature Gallery Group
Mod
el: J
asm
ine
Pho
togr
aphe
r: S
usan
Kni
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(808) 349-2259
Thank you to bike factoryFreesurf has shiny new wheels
thanks to Bike Factory Waipio. You
can find our cameramen cruising
in style down Kam Highway with
their equipment and boards safely
secured, credit to the aftermarket
surf rack mounts and front baskets (no bells though). Check em out at
bikefactoryhawaii.com
ns Carlos burle Meets the Wrath of JawsNo pain, no gain. While charging a New Year’s Eve
swell at Pe’ahi, Carlos Burle bust his stick he shred
so bad, dislocating his shoulder after one of many
destructive bombers that erupted at Jaws that day.
Wishing you a speedy recovery Carlos!
John John’s sponsor switch to HurleyAfter heated negotiations between the surfing Praetors, John John Florence,
our glorified North Shore-born son has chosen the adorned House of Hurley to
represent his next surfing conquest. In exchange he will be signing one of the
biggest contracts in surfing history. Go John John! The North Shore loves you!
iNDustRy Notes
eli olsen signs with o’neillMr. Olsen has been charging hard this
season, well worth the mark from
O’Neill. Being good friends with JJF
isn’t a bad bonus either. Congrats on
flying the O’Neill flag Eli!
Joey Johnston newest Quiksilver RiderWith a broken board count rivaling
surf veterans, it was about time that
lil Joey got some solid recognition.
Look for him to be charging steep and
deep and not begging for boards in
the streets.
sponsors
2013 board buyers Guide: look for It next IssueFreesurf’s annual Board Buyers Guide is returning in March, where
we highlight shapers, boards, and surfboard accessories in the pages
of our magazine. We’re interested in getting the latest and greatest
in surfboard designs plus surfboard accessories (leashes, wax, board
bags, deck pads, etc.) for you to pour over. Be sure to grab your guide
next month!
It’s always More fun to share With everyone
There is a new V-Land in surfing and
it’s called Vimeo. We’re broadcasting
our best footage on crystal clear
Vimeo and promoting on Facebook.
Follow us on Facebook for our recently uploaded stuff - chock full of
event coverage, Rides of the Week, Wipeouts of the Week, and more
tantalizing surf videos. Share any of our content (the more shares, the
more entries) to be automatically entered in our bike giveaway. You
might just be commuting on your very own brand new Trek Cruiser
Classic bike. The contest begins February 1 and ends March 31, 2013.Greg long’s long Hold DownDo you think you have what it takes to survive a
3-wave hold down at Cortes Bank on one of the
heaviest swells of the year? Greg Long did, with
help from DK Walsh, Jon Walla and Frank Quiarte
operating the rescue skis. After a 24-hour stay in the
UCSD Hospital in San Diego, Long returned home.
But we’re thinking he probably won’t stay out of the
water for too long.
Cou
rtes
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urle
y
808-691-9599 525 Kapahulu Avenue - Honolulu, Hawaii 96816
www.diamondheadsurfboards.com
LONGBOARDS - FUNBOARDS - SHORTBOARDS - STAND UP PADDLE BOARDS - CUSTOMBOARDS
BOARD RENTALS - SURFING LESSONS - SURF GEAR - ACCESSORIES - SURF WEAR
facebook.com/DHSHawaii
north shore surf shop sunset beach Pro Junior The North Shore Surf Shop Pro Junior at Sunset beach is the
2nd annual in the making. A pipe dream come true for Liam
McNamara, this event has allowed juniors a golden opportunity
to collect valuable ASP points while gaining priceless
experience surfing uncrowded Sunset Beach. Our next issue
will be highlighting the results of the event, so be sure to check
back.
2013 Quiksilver Makahiki festival at MakahaScoring the biggest waves in the history of the event, this year’s
Quiksilver Makahiki Festival couldn’t have happened during a
better time. With 4-8 foot surf and north winds, Makaha displayed
ideal conditions and diversity for some of Hawaii’s best talent in
traditional Hawaiian wave sports. Longboarding, tandem surfing,
canoe wave riding, and most recently, SUPing were the categories
of competition. Friends and family came together late January to
celebrate the Hawaiian Makahiki sports festival, where we saw
performances from watermen and women honoring the New Year,
the ocean culture of Hawaii, and the harvest of Oahu’s best wave
season.
iNDustRy Notes
new Homcy film on the Horizon North shore residents and earthling extraordinaire couple Crystal Thornburg-Homcy
and Dave Homcy have teamed up with Beyond The Surface International to create a
new film project titled “Beyond The Surface”. The documentary takes place in India and
touches on eco-tourism, youth and women’s empowerment, biocentrism and personal
growth. A unique group of female surfers and yogis travel through India aiming to
document how surfing, yoga, and ecological creativity encourages happiness amongst
suffering. The film’s goal is to instigate hope and change for local people and the Planet,
reaching out globally to the surf communities and beyond.
The Homcys and Beyond The Surface International nonprofit organization are asking
for donations to help with costs of film, processing and post production. Please visit
http://www.indiegogo.com/beyondthesurfacefilm to learn more about the project or to
contribute.
Cou
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ryst
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horn
burg
-Hom
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iNDustRy Notes
lifeguards’ eyes Under ProtectionSPY is happy to support the North Shore Lifeguard Association by spiffing them out
with the premium injected Trident polarized lenses. SPY’s Trident sunglasses help block
out harsh sunrays, effectively eliminating up to 99% of blinding glare, which helps the
lifeguards see more clearly and protect their eyes. SPY Trident polarized sunglasses
also will never scratch, delaminate, or haze, lasting longer than ever before in Hawaii’s
natural elements. “The North Shore Lifeguards are watching the water better than ever
thanks to our new SPY sunglasses,” says Abe Lerner, NSLA president. Tom
Ser
vais
Last Look
With the level of surfing and photography evolving, both Jamie O’Brien and cinematographer Erik Ippel are working to push the boundries of what is acceptable. This frame grab from the Red Epic camera, featuring a masked JOB, is a glimpse of what is to come.
Photo: Ippel Films / Red Digital Cinema
