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AlohaThe State of
FREE
In Hawai’i
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photo: daniel russo ©2012 Vans, Inc. vanssurf.com
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photo: daniel russo ©2012 Vans, Inc. vanssurf.com
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Free Parking
Torrey Meister on a thick inside bowl at Sunset.. Torrey Meister. Photo: Tyler Rock
Editorial
Publisher : Mike Latronic
Managing Editor : Matt Luttrell
Senior Staff Photographer : Tony Heff
Editor -at- Large : Chris Latronic
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w w w . h i c s u r f . c o m
Table of Contents
Joey Johnston. Photo: Latronic
AlohaThe State of
DorianThe Interview
ApertureNew Classics
HIC ProKicks Off Contest Season
20
36
46
66
Departments
10 Free Parking
16 Cover Story
18 Pulbisher’s Note
74 Community
76 She Rips
84 Grom Report
86 News & Events
96 Last Look
Features
Cover Story
There’s something about Seth when he surfs. Whether it’s big waves or small, it’s always there; the look of pure excitement and stoke! It’s something
the entire Moniz Ohana seems to radiate. And this seemed the perfect opportunity to put one of the Moniz boys on our Freesurf cover for the first
time.
I see Seth surfing a lot. He’s always out, and it was no surprise to see him once again on this pristine November morning at perfectly clean
mini backdoor. There weren’t a lot of barrels, but Seth seemed to find the hidden gems and can no doubt thread a tube among the best of his
counterparts.
This little tube happened so fast that I didn’t think too much of it. It wasn’t until reviewing the shots later that I realized the potential of this locked in
image, capturing Seth’s unadulterated essence of Aloha in the form of stoke! -Tyler Rock
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mele kalikimaka!
All we Need is love! Shop online at www.pakaloha.com
815 Front St. • Lahaina, HI 96761(Located between Kimo’s & Cheeseburger In Paradise)
808.661.6888151 Hana Hwy. Unit 1 • Paia, HI 96779
(Paia Courtyard Market)808.579.8882
Publisher’s NoteThe energy surrounding Oahu’s northshore pinnacles in December. This issue brings us mid season with huge Aleutian storm swell and the very
best wave riders on the planet have gathered to ride. A world championship rages at the Billabong Pipeline Masters and the season finish to the
world championship tour settles all the chips. In between, before and after all the heat horns blow there’s the uncontested gladiator performances
– as much of a spectacle at times as the championships events. Its everday life when your on
Whenever I think of Aloha, my mind always runs back to the famous Duke Kahanamoku quote that adorns the bronze plaque below his statue. “In
Hawaii we greet friends, loved ones or strangers with ‘Aloha,’ which means with love. Aloha is the key word to the universal spirit of real hospitality,
which makes Hawaii renowned as the world’s center of understanding and fellowship. Try meeting or leaving people with Aloha. You’ll be surprised
by their reaction. I believe it, and it is my creed. Aloha to you.” Legend states that this quote was also printed on the back of Duke’s personal
business card.
In my eyes, no written words on Aloha could ever top this quote. Duke Paoa Kahanamoku was the Ambassador of Aloha. Duke was a man of few
words, and he instinctively knew that actions spoke louder than words. For this issue of Freesurf we delve into the state of Aloha for 2012 and ask
our friends for their thoughts on Aloha.
As interesting as the article is, I can’t help but think that this month’s cover shot of Seth Moniz defines Aloha like no words can. Looking at Seth’s
face as he threads through the eye of Backdoor peeler conveys the very essence of aloha and stoke. Seth Moniz knows just like Duke Kahanamoku
did that surfing is the ultimate conduit of Aloha. Surfing is capable of bringing out the Aloha in any and every person.
What are you waiting for? Go forth and surf all ye Freesurfers and Live Aloha!
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HIC Pro Kicks Off Contest SeasonNews & Events
Winter is officially here. The HIC Pro presented by Vans kicked off the start
of Hawaii’s championship surf season and if this contest is any kind of
barometer to gauge the rest of winter, it’s shaping up to be a good one.
Event director Marty Thomas carefully selected the best four days for
competition during the 12 day waiting period and Sunset Beach produced a
mix of sizes and conditions from 3-12 feet.
Since the HIC Pro acts as the final qualifying event, athletes clawed,
scratched and battled for one of 6 spots to gain entry into the Vans Triple
Crown of Surfing. The 4-star rated ASP event has served as a major
stepping stone for a variety of Hawaii’s biggest surf stars in the past.
Previous champions include Bruce and Andy Irons, Fred Pattachia, Ian
Walsh, the late Ronnie Burns, Pancho Sullivan, and last year’s champ Ezekiel
Lau to name a few.
Prevailing wisdom suggests that surfing is the domain of hyperkinetic
young men. Tell that to 12x world champ, 40 year old Kelly Slater, and now
Sunny Garcia for that matter. A full two decades after Sunny won the Xcel
Pro at Sunset Beach back in 1992, the 42-year-old former world champion
found himself competing in the final day of the HIC Pro. With the second
most wins out at Sunset (only Michael Ho has more), every competitor still
in the draw knew Sunny was a real threat to win. Fresh off a gold medal
performance at the ISA World Masters Championships in Nicaragua this
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Pound for pound, Sunny Garcia holds his own
among the elite at Sunset Beach. Garcia
pushed into an early lead at this years HIC
final and never lost it.
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News & Events
HIC ProNews & Events
HIC Pro Hef
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past summer, the 6-time Triple Crown Champion was looking lean and
focused. Big gouges, great rail work, coupled with impeccable tube riding
saw Sunny blitz through the competition.
Sunset could very well be the trickiest wave on the planet, and wave
knowledge is paramount. The first day of the HIC Pro proved to be a solid
indicator that experience was going to play a huge factor throughout the
contest. In the first heat of the event, our very own 47-year-young Mike
Latronic threaded the first barrel of the event, won his heat and made the
highlight reel. Another veteran that turned heads was Kahea Hart. The
40-year-old charger was in fine form throughout the event, surfing with
power and determination. Combined with some savvy heat strategy, Kahea
advanced all the way to the final day of competition. It wasn’t just the
Hawaii veterans giving the youngsters a run for their money either. Former
WCT competitor and number seven in the world Nathan Hedge was on
fire, showing precise rail work and fully committed surfing on his backhand.
However, the Hog just barely missed making the quarterfinals of the event,
losing out to fellow Aussie Thomas Woods by .23 of a point.
Granger Larsen blazed through the event with style and poise. With the
long right hander suiting his surfing, Granger came in a close second to
Sunny in the final. He will no doubt be a dominant force at Sunset in the
future.
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News & Events
HIC Pro
Gregg Nakamura was indeed the dark horse ripper of the
contest. Dubbed “Double G”, the local surfer harvested
great wave selection to make the final, turning some
heads in the process.
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News & Events
HIC Pro
Posting some of the top scores of the event on a consistent
basis, Kahea Hart put his athletic frame and knowledge to
work in super fun conditions at Sunset Beach.
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Torrey Meister truly tore apart the peak all week with abandon
and looked like a sure bet to make finals. This semifinal
moment, however, did not turn out for the better.
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OahuOutrigger WaikikiHilton Hawaiian VillageWaikiki Beach WalkSheraton Princess Kaiulani KauaiPoipu Shopping VillageAnchor Cove
MauiWhalers Village, KaʻanapaliFront StreetLahaina Cannery MallSouth KiheiShops At Wailea
Big IslandKona Inn Shopping VillageKings’ Shops Waikoloa
HONO-FREE SURF AD-NOV.12.indd 1 10/8/12 12:55 PM
Another relevant moment from this years HIC pro at Sunset. Ian Gentil
progressed to the quarter finals with a growing reputation for solid clean
yet radical lines.
HIC ProNews & Events
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HIC ProNews & Events
Standout performer for certain, nobody turned
harder or faster than semi finalist Kekoa Bacalso.
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While the international crew was surfing well, Hawaii surfers dominated
Sunset’s massive lineup. Hawaii’s standouts throughout the event included
Kekoa “Bam” Bacalso, Torrey Meister, Fred Pattachia and Shane Beschen.
Kekoa Bacalso managed to notch up the biggest score of the event with a
9.93 in his quarterfinal heat, linking together three of the most critical and
well timed turns of the entire event. Torrey Meister looked unstoppable in
each of his heats, making late drops and navigating chandeliering barrels
with ease. Torrey combined power, flow and variety throughout every heat
and looked poised to snatch a victory. Unfortunately, Torrey was stopped
just short of the finals by a surging Freddie Pattachia. No stranger to
Sunset’s nuances and many faces, Freddie P won this event back in 2002
and in 2004. However, the darkhorse story of the event was Ala Moana
Bowls local Gregg Nakamura. A civil engineer by trade, the 32-year-old
cubicle jockey battled all the way to the finals, advancing through his heats
with savvy surfing, smart positioning and finesse.
The all Hawaii final pitted Sunny Garcia, Fred Pattachia, Granger Larsen
and Gregg Nakamura. After a day of firing waves, the final was a bit
wave starved. The lack of set waves played right to Garcia’s favor as he
jumped out to an early lead in the heat by nabbing two good scores in
the first half. Both waves had plenty of open face, and Sunny proceeded
to tear the back out of each wave. With his caddy Billy Kemper yelling
encouragement, the former world champion secured victory over an
in-form Granger Larsen. On the podium, Sunny held his grandson and
summed up his experience surfing in Hawaii, “I feel like if the waves are
big and I feel like there are very few people that can compete with me if I
get good waves.” Well stated, and with his victory, Sunny will now enjoy
News & Events
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FINAL:
1st - Sunny Garcia (HAW) - $15,000 - 14.83 (8.5, 6.33)
2nd - Granger Larsen (HAW) - $7,500 - 12.5 (7.17, 5.33)
3rd - Gregg Nakamura (HAW) - $5,000 -11.74 (6.57, 5.17)
4th - Fred Patacchia (HAW) - $3,500 - 7.33 (4.0, 3.33)
SEMI-FINALS:
H1: Gregg Nakamura; Fred Patacchia; Torrey Meister; Lincoln Taylor
H2: Sunny Garcia; Granger Larsen; Kekoa Bacalso; Joshua Moniz
QUARTER FINALS:
H1: Torrey Meister; Gregg Nakamura; Kiron Jabour; Ian Gentil
H2: Fred Patacchia; Lincoln Taylor; Keanu Asing; Alex Smith
H3: Kekoa Bacalso; Joshua Moniz; Dion Atkinson (Aus); Nathan
Carvalho
H4: Granger Larson; Sunny Garcia; Shane Beschen; Thomas Woods
HIC Pro Results
a seed into the Round of 64. The youngsters better pay heed to their
elders, especially since Sunny’s patented layback snap is looking
fierce.
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Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau 2012 Invitees
News & Events
Alternates
Danny Fuller
Kalani Chapman
Kahea Hart
Michael Ho
Keone Downing
Brock Little
David Standt
Danilo Couto
Ben Wilkinson
Jamie Mitchell
Keoni Watson
Kealii Mamal
Rusty Keaulana
Gabriel Villaran
Tau Hannenman
Mark Matthews
Evan Valiere
Diego Medina
Rusty Long
Aaron Gold
Myles Padaca
Chris Bertish
Ken Collins
Andrew Marr
Anthony Tashnick
Shawn Dollar
Ross Williams
Derek Dunfee
The most prestigious big wave surf event on the planet, the 28th annual
Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau big wave invitational, has announced
its list of 2012/13 Invitees and Alternates. Held only when the waves are 20
feet or bigger, the event’s holding period commences December 1st and
extends through February 28th. 2012 marks the first year that local phenom
John John Florence has been invited to surf in this iconic big wave contest.
Invitees
Alex Gray
Bruce Irons
Carlos Burle
Clyde Aikau
Dave Wassel
Garret McNamara
Grant Baker
Greg Long
Ian Walsh
Jamie O’Brien
Jamie Sterling
Jeremy Flores
John John Florence
Kala Alexander
Kelly Slater
Kohl Christensen
Makua Rothman
Mark Healy
Nathan Fletcher
Noah Johnson
Pete Mel
Ramon Navarro
Reef McIntosh
Ross Clarke-Jones
Shane Dorian
Sunny Garcia
Takayuki Wakita
Tom Carroll
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Aloha by Chris Latronic
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Aloha. Perhaps the most commonly uttered word in Hawaii. Every person that enters the islands is first greeted with this word. Phonetically, Aloha is
made up of a compound of Hawaiian words. ‘Alo’ meaning “presence” and ‘ha’ meaning “breath of life” or “essence of life.” Aloha essentially means
“the presence of the breath or essence of life.” Affection, peace, compassion and mercy are all found in the meaning of this word. To “live aloha” is
to live with love, honor and peace.
The State of
For me aloha is a personal commitment to do my best for myself and others in a way that is sincere, respectful and honest.
-Robert Cazimero
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Aloha seeped into pop culture centuries ago and has played a
significant role in Hollywood, with its frequent usage in the 1968 and
2010 versions of the hit television drama Hawaii Five-0. Fast Times at
Ridgemont High student surfer, Jeff Spicolli (Sean Penn), uses Aloha
with eccentric teacher Mr. Hand (Ray Walston). The Aloha Spirit is a
major concept in Lilo and Stitch, a Disney series of movies and TV
shows, set in Hawai`i. The drama series Lost, shot in Hawai`i, has a
thank you note at the end of the credits saying “We thank the people
of Hawai`i and their Aloha Spirit”. The word embodies a meaning that’s
not only become popular, but also a worldwide moral conduct.
Arguably the most famous use of Aloha is found in the classic,
endearing Hawaiian song that Queen Lili`uokalani penned, “Aloha `Oe.”
Written by the Queen in 1878, it is the unofficial anthem of The Royal
Hawaiian Band. The song ends every single concert that the Royal
Hawaiian Band plays, an ode to the essence behind Aloha.
While Aloha is perhaps the most elegant word in the Hawaiian language
and its use is well documented in Hollywood, what does it mean to the
people of Hawaii? And equally as important, is Aloha alive and well? Do
the people of Hawaii take care to reflect and share its meaning? We
asked a few of our friends what Aloha means to them.
What is Aloha to you?
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Lisa Anderson4-time Women’s World Surf Champ
Aloha means Love… Gerry Lopez taught me that and I don’t think
there’s anyone better who can teach you that.
Aloha is like the ocean. It’s like what the ocean gives you. You share it
with everyone, the love for the ocean.
Being fortunate to live a great lifestyle.
Kainoa McGeeLifeguard
Aloha is more of a lifestyle and an attitude rather than just a word
or a saying. It’s a free giving of warmth, love and kindness with no
expectations in return.
A perfect example of ALOHA is when you just meet someone and
you invite them to your home to meet your ohana and eat, drink and
be merry. That’s Hawaiian style.
Ha’a KeaulanaPhotographer
Aloha means to welcome, to give, and to love.
I think Aloha is very alive in Hawaii!
Some good examples of Aloha is “Making sure everyone is
fed at a
party” “Giving everyone a nice big smile” and “Giving a
shaka to the car
that let you go.”
Am
ber
Moz
o
Latr
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There is no bad Aloha. Aloha is the same sentiment everywhere. It
means hello, goodbye, have a great day. Here in Huntington, there’s a
lot of Aloha Friday’s and Aloha hangovers.
Robert CazimeroMusician/The Brothers Cazimero
What is Aloha?
Such a hard question to answer as it can be as general as it is
subjective. For me Aloha is a personal commitment to do my best for
myself and others in a way that is sincere, respectful and honest. That
said I work on Aloha every day of my life. Most times I triumph but
failure waits ever patiently not too far away.
Examples of Aloha?
It’s trite but the common things like a hug, a REAL hug. A hello, a
letter, throwing loose change to a young dancer at a local party, telling
someone to be careful on the high waves. Saying and giving thanks.
Is Hawaii still filled with Aloha?
Pockets of this mystery remain but Hawai’i still filled with Aloha? Gotta
dig deep...
Keoni Burger NozakiProfessional Charger
Aloha means just having a good vibe and enjoying life and it means a lot
of positive things!!!!
First person who showed me Aloha would have to be uncle Mike Ho, he
is just a legend. Everything he taught me about the ocean people and
all kinds of other good things!
Yes Hawaii is still filled with Aloha, just look all around us it’s
everywhere!!
Other names for Aloha like hello, goodbye, and many other ways I
think!!!
Makuakai RothmanProfessional Surfer/Musician
Aloha is my life, my family, my people. Aloha is a word that can describe
many things. Aloha is what I try to portray in whatever I do.
For us who grew up in Hawaii and lived here our whole life...Aloha is
more of a feeling to us than just a word. It’s what happens every day
we go by. We say hi, goodbye, or how are you? A please, a thank you,
a handshake, a hug. It’s just being nice to people, showing somebody
that you care. Helping a fellow out that’s in a lesser situation then you.
Anything that gives an uplifting, happy-smile on your face-feeling!
First time I felt Aloha was probably from Eddie Aikau’s father, Pops
Aikau. He used to take care of me when I was a baby. He helped my
mom and could cook some good grinds!
Latr
onicRandall Paulson
When a true Hawaiian smiles at you...that’s
aloha! And that’s how I want to love.
40
If there was no Aloha, there would be no Hawaii.
Kala AlexanderProfessional Surfer/Actor
Aloha is a way of life. Aloha is the spirit. Aloha is breath. It’s been
kind of stomped out of us over the years so people don’t see it as
much as they used to. When you treat Hawaiians with respect, you’ll
see it.
Brian AmonaLocal Surfer
Aloha is living Pono. You know what living ‘pono’ means? It’s very
basic… Treat each other the way you want to be treated.
Let someone go before you, give someone a wave… It’s the little
things like that.
Pogi TevagaMr. Polynesia 2012
Aloha is the act of love, kindness, and respect toward others. There
were a few people who showed me Aloha when I moved to Oahu
from Maui. Mr. and Mrs. David Parker showed me so much Aloha,
and Chris Brown who was one of the first guys I met and still am
good friends with him . And for sure Tihati and Aunty Cha for their
continued love and support. Hawaii will always be filled with Aloha
no matter who comes and goes through these islands.
Flynn NovakPro Surfer
To me Aloha is an overall good vibe you can express outward, or feel
coming from someone.
Aloha is alive and very well, you just have to be open to it... You
definitely cannot find Aloha everywhere, but when you do, it’s a
beautiful and greatly appreciated thing!
An example of Aloha in daily life could be any act of kindness or
sharing in a positive way,,, From cooking dinner for your friends to
giving someone a needed hug, or just doing your best to keep your
community clean and care for our living space.
Aloha deficient people generally don’t give a shit about anyone,
not even themselves, usually wouldn’t think twice about stealing,
littering, or anything that wouldn’t directly benefit them.
Kaoli KahokuloaHawaii Junior Surf Team
Aloha means loving one another through our words and actions no
matter what our differences may be.
I believe that Aloha is not alive and well in some parts of the world
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such as Afghanistan, but thank GOD that Aloha is alive and well in some
parts of America, especially in Hawaii which carries the Aloha spirit to
places that don’t have Aloha.
Some examples in our daily life are greeting someone with a fat smile,
hug, kiss on the cheek, or handshake. Some other examples of Aloha are
sharing, exchanging kind words, helping one another in need, and most
of all putting others first. Some examples of no Aloha that I’ve seen are
sponsors making false promises, surfers purposefully dropping in on
others, people gossiping about others, and most of all ignorant people
picking on others who are different or less fortunate.
Randy RarickExecutive Director of Vans Triple Crown of Surfing
I think the spirit of Aloha is represented with Hawaiian surfing. Surfing is
Hawaii’s gift to the world of sport, and surfing personifies and exemplifies
that. My teacher was Rabbit Kekai, and he pushed me into my first wave
in Waikiki when I was 10. Rabbit was taught by Duke Kahanamoku, and I
knew Duke when I was a young boy. I remember Duke sitting next to me
giving me wisdom when I was 14 years old, telling me you should act with
Aloha and use Aloha in presenting surfing to the world. And that was really
his creed, that you show Aloha, you get Aloha. If you use Aloha in surfing,
that’s the true spirit of what surfing is all about.
I tell people instead of being macho and agro, would Duke have done that?
No way. There’s no way. Duke shared it. He showed his Aloha and he got it
back because of that. You get back what you put out. One of the things that
the ancient Hawaiians really did is that they really shared their Aloha.
I went to public schools and in seventh grade there were 3 haoles in my
school, the rest of the guys were all local. I learned what you gotta do
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Aloha is more than just a word, it’s a way of life!
Living with Aloha is treating others better, and showing them the Hawaiian way!
Yes, Aloha is alive and well! I see it in the Keiki and the Kupuna! I wish Honolulu would
enforce an Aloha rule with any employee working there, airline staff and especially the
TSA agents. Their companies should reprimand them for not showing Aloha in our airports,
cause I’m sure we’ve all experienced some bad treatment there.
to get along here, and it really taught me what a wonderful place this is, but it’s a very
challenging place. But as I said, if you show Aloha, you get Aloha. If you put it out, you’ll
get it back. It’s as simple as that. I’ve lived my whole life with that philosophy. It’s done
me well and I like to think I’ve contributed a lot, particularly to surfing and even Hawaiian
surfing. Even though I’m not Hawaiian on the outside, yet inside, Hawaiian at heart. And
that’s what really counts.
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Photos Manulele Inc.
Aperture
No shortage of magical moments at Pipeline. Photo: Mike Latronic.
In every passing moment we carry and reflect style and attitude. It
could be the way we walk or the way we talk… Or the way we fly…
Photo: Bielmann
There’s an invisible line many north shore surfers cross when the swells rise
to advisory levels… The Pipeline is the “gladiator’s zone.” Be you from Africa,
Europe, Haleiwa, the US mainland, this journey through this dome is as thrilling
as it is dangerous. Unknown surfer Photo: outbluffum.com
Don’t be deceived by the smooth and graceful style of Granger Larsen. He’s
speeding with precision, progression and punch. He likes to mess stuff up… but
he looks good doing it! Photo: Tyler Rock
Kaimana Henry flares brute force. Photo: Tyler Rock
Unlikely things happen at the most unlikely moments.
John Florence plays the 8 foot air game at 2 foot
backdoor. Photo: Mike Latronic
Always fast and clean. Joel Centeio. Photo: Tyler Rock
Flexibility testing. Roy Powers has a knack for sudden
redirection and it usually scores big fun points.
Photo: Tony Heff
Spectators gather and feast their eyes on what
many surfers consider the greatest show on Earth.
Kainoa McGee center stage. Photo: Tony Heff
Most of the new school R&D and shredding is being farmed and tested
in beach break conditions and usually on sandbars. Right? Wrong! Tooled
with cutting edge progressive skill and a bit of Brazilian bravado, Gabriel
Medina negotiates a back flip over one foot of water at Off the Wall.
Photo: Tyler Rock
Tanner Hendrickson is fired up, usually smiling and always
ready to throw tail. Photo: Mike Latronic
Chris Owens reaps the rewards of a good alarm clock and a sick pit
in the morning light. Photo:Eric Baeseman
Dorian
by Ross Williams
Everyone has that moment amongst their childhood friends that more or less
defines them as a human. If you happened to be the funny guy in your group
then there’s most likely that favorite story that everyone recalls, which glorifies
the lore. The serious guy always has the steady presence from an early age.
The troubled outcast, the popular guy, the nerd, so on and so on, we all have
our moment whether we know it or not. In my mind, Shane Dorian’s moment is
pretty unforgettable.
We might have been 16 or 17 years old, definitely still in school. The surf was
huge. 20’ plus. Not a realm that we were familiar with yet. As we always did,
we were tailing Brock Little and Todd Chesser around like two little nervous rug
rats awaiting orders in our battle with Mother Nature. Looking out at the ocean,
it seemed impossible to penetrate the “channel.” Paddling as hard as we could
to reach the Green zone, our group got split up. While me and another friend
got swept to the neighboring break, Shane, Todd and Brock pushed through. As
I got punished all the way to shore, I clearly remember the fact that I was totally
fine with not giving it another shot. The entire ocean seemed to be folding in
half.
About an hour later Shane came back to the house with a look of total defeat in
his eyes. Later, Todd and Brock told me the story. As they were scrambling over
the face of a huge 20’ set, just trying to get out of harms way, Shane decided it
was a good idea to whip it mid way up the face on the first wave of the set. He
free fell down the face eating crap at the bottom. From there he was held down
for the remainder of that wave AND the wave after that. Nearly drowning, he
somehow made it to the beach. When I saw the look of respect and surprise on
the faces of Todd and Brock (our heroes), I knew Shane was a complete nut ball.
There are 3 types of professional surfers. The charger. The tour guy. And the free
surfer. Making it onto one of these lists is an accomplishment in itself. Making
it on 2 of these lists is even more rare. Making it on all the 3 is the rarest of
specimen. Shane combines the skills of a tour surfer, with the mindset of a big
wave charger, and the foresight of a free surfer. This is the reason that Shane
finds himself on a very short list as one of our sports’ greatest ever. A lot of
guys will take off on anything that moves when its bombing but you won’t find
yourself youtubing their section in performance waves to amp up for a sesh out
front.
Shane was, and still is, a tour caliber surfer that has a massive amount of
brawn, maybe the most out of anyone. And he backs it up with crazy good
technique. Lucky for us he still calls surfing his job. We get to witness all of
his heroics on the internet and in the magazines. The sport is so lucky to have
Shane at the helm of big waves. Humble and smart, Shane is a good family
man. Which means that he will be pursuing these missions with the precision
of a Navy Seal attack. Already his invention of the air bladder wetsuit is an
example in his combined effort to do crazy shit but not die in the process. You
won’t find Shane tooting his own horn in a desperate cry for attention, which
is why it makes it so much more fashionable for the rest of us mere mortals to
raise the “crazy flag” for him.
Chr
is S
tral
ey /
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Chr
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Interview: Shane Dorianby Tyler Rock
When did you get into big waves?
I’ve really been into big waves since I was 16 years old. I hung out with
Brock Little and Todd Chesser a lot when I was a kid. When I was 16 I
actually moved in with Brock and Todd. They really took me under their
wing and whenever the waves got big on the North Shore I was either
surfing Waimea or the outer reefs. So ever since then I was really into
big waves. Things kind of got put on a back burner for a while. I did the
tour. And I was traveling non-stop for about 10 or 12 years. So fitting in
big wave missions, chasing big swells around was pretty tough. I was
out of the country most of the time. When I stopped doing the tour
was when I was able to refocus and surf big waves a lot again. And
it’s been something that I have been focusing on more these last few
years. Until I was 15 I hadn’t surfed any big waves at all. I grew up here
in Kona on the Big Island and the waves really never do get very big
here. So I started going to Oahu a bit. When I was 15, I actually moved
over to Oahu and ended up staying with close friends and my shaper
at the time, Cino Magallanes, and his son Jason was a close friend. So
I started going to Waialua High School, and from that point on I met
Todd Chesser and Brock Little and a lot of the guys over there that
were charging at a real young age. It was just a natural progression
from there.
When did you begin thinking about paddling Jaws?
Its kind of weird how it all happened. It didn’t seem like a planned
thing. A few years ago I had talked to Ian Walsh about it. I told him
I really wanted to try and paddle it on a big day. There were guys
that had been paddling it on smaller swells. The kind of swells guys
really wouldn’t tow surf it. But I thought it was worth a shot to try
and paddle it when it was big. I actually missed the first time they
ever paddled it. It was the same winter we had talked about it, but I
had another trip scheduled. So I went on the trip and the waves got
pretty big, and it was Ian, Greg Long and Sion and Healy. Long story
short I didn’t want to but I ended up missing the first paddle session
and those guys got some amazing waves. I was so excited to see the
images. It really reinforced my theory that you could paddle into really
big waves there. Guys have been paddling in out there for a while.
There was a huge jump on that day. Ian Walsh caught a couple of really
big waves. Sion got a big wave that day. I remember getting so fired up
when I saw that. And I was depressed that I missed it. As luck would
have it, there was another swell really quickly after that. I think it was in
March, pretty late in the winter. And I went over there for the swell not
expecting a whole lot and it ended up being really good. And that was
the first session I was there.
When did you first surf Jaws?
I first surfed Jaws when I was 24, 25. When I first surfed Jaws it was
a total tow-in thing. I started going over to Jaws and towing with Noah
Johnson and then towing with Ian Walsh, until we started paddling it. I
would go over for really big swells and just tow it.
Why is Jaws such a good paddling wave?
The wave at Jaws, Peahi, whatever you want to call it, is in my opinion
the best big wave paddle wave in the world. Just the shape of it. How
it comes in out of deep water and bends up into a peak. It has this
really intense take off, and it looms, gets really huge, kind of like a
Sunset Beach the way it approaches the reef. As soon as it hits the reef
it does this crazy thing. When the swell hits the reef it really bottoms
out and makes the waves stand up really tall. So it’s pretty technical.
It’s not just a big drop. You don’t just get to your feet and ride out. There
really is a lot to it. You get to your feet and the ride just begins. A lot of
times there’s a giant barrel and you really have to make it down the line
quickly. You see some incredible rides out there.
How good was that session?
Just in general I think everybody out there had multiple opportunities
to get great waves. There were quite a few guys out. Almost all the
waves that came in had great shape. It’s not like you had to wait for the
Shane Dorian bags the wave of the day. Photo: Heff
second wave for it to clean up. Every wave that came in was either
paddled for or ridden, so that was really unique about the swell and it
just kind of enabled all of us to catch a lot of good waves. I had a lot
of good waves. I got pretty lucky. I was pretty picky but my equipment
was working well and I was feeling healthy and strong. I’ve been
preparing for the winter for a while now and it was a good opportunity
for me to put things in motion and see how everything was working.
I had a couple of tube rides which is unusual when the waves are that
big. The real standout wave for me that first day, and for the swell,
was that big last one I got. It was such a cool wave because I had
been surfing at that point for three hours and I was getting a little
fatigued and I was thinking I should probably go in and I was sitting
out the back and I kind of looked around and there was no one really
left in the lineup. I think everyone else had the exact same thought as
me that it’s kind of getting late. We are all paddling in on the rocks. I
wanted to get up the rocks before it got
dark. Next thing you know the lineup
is pretty much empty the only guy in
the water was Mark Healy and I think
Chuck Patterson was on the left. And
Mark Healy was out to sea. So I’m in
the lineup by myself and I’m thinking
I just need to get a little scrap one in.
And next thing you know that big set
came. It was probably the biggest set
of the day. And I was thinking I’ll just
paddle out and avoid the set and catch
a little one in. I paddled way out and I
just ended up being right in the perfect
spot. I didn’t really feel like catching a
big wave at that point, I’d had a great
session. I was fine. I didn’t need to
prove anything to myself. That wave came right to me, and I just
thought I’ll turn around and just have a look, just have a sniff and see if
I’m in the right spot. Next thing you know I start gaining momentum.
It felt like the wave, it felt like I was meant to ride that wave. This is
the one. It was just an insane ride. Got to my feet and let me in. It
was real technical, I had to clear a big boil that was coming up the
face. It was pretty intense, and the wave was a really big one too. And
then it just barreled the whole reef. I wasn’t deep or anything but I
was just in the vortex of the thing. It was loud and spit was flying all
over the place. It was exciting. It was definitely probably the pinnacle
of my surfing career. Of all the thousands of waves I caught that one
stands out, there’s no doubt about it.
Tell us about how your equipment is evolving?
Things are really happening fast at Jaws. Before that I was surfing
Mavericks, and Waimea, and a couple outer reef waves. For Jaws the
wave is a totally different animal. Its a different kind of wave so you
need a different kind of board. My equipment, and everyone else’s
equipment, I believe is really evolving quickly. Now I am riding a 10’6
quad out there. You need a lot of board to be able to paddle quickly
and you need it to perform really well. There’s a lot of little technical
adjustments you need to do on that wave in order to ride it effectively
and not just straighten out and get pummeled. It’s a lot of fun. It_s fun
to work with your shaper and do some different designs. See what
works in terms of fins and rocker. It_s a lot of fun.
What standout rides did you see?
I saw some great rides from the channel. I was taking it easy. I’d catch
a wave and paddle back out and kind of watch from the channel for
a bit. Albee Layer I would say was a real standout. I’ve been pretty
impressed with Albee’s whole approach out there. He’s got really good
technical ability and he charges really hard. But he’s not overboard
about his charging. Doesn’t look like he’s trying to prove anything. He
has a plan. He goes out there and he has the kind of wave he’s looking
for and everything. It was really fun to watch Albee out there. He had
a lot of good ones. Also, Ian Walsh is always a standout. Greg Long
caught a couple of huge ones. Got that insane
barrel. He is such a good surfer in big waves.
Mark Healy. Makua Rothman I thought was one
of the best surfers of the swell. There’s just so
many good guys nowadays it’s just so hard to
name them all.
Was it a monumental session?
It’s easy for me to say it was a monumental
session, and it was probably the best session I’ve
ever been out in for paddle waves. The amount of
amazing rides I saw. The amount of good waves
I got personally. The conditions. The size. It was
all there. It’s funny because the bar was so low
before this we’ve just started paddling Jaws
and it’s only just begun. I think there’s a lot left
in terms of performance. I think there’s a lot left in size. I think in the
next five years we’ll be seeing some incredible rides that will hopefully
completely eclipse what we’ve just done this far. That’s the hope. Our
equipment is getting there quickly. I think guys are more prepared to
get a little bit more aggressive out there and have better technique. It’s
exciting for me to kind of sit back and watch it as well.
Tell us about your last wave of the swell.
So my last wave was pretty intense. It was a big one. It was the
second wave of the set. I knew it was gonna be a smooth one from the
get go, and I was hoping for a big barrel. That wave was sucking off the
reef right from the start so I knew it was going to be a big barrel and I
knew I was going to be pretty deep. I didn’t know I was going to be as
deep as I was. The whole time I was on the gas trying to go as fast as
I possibly could. From the time I got to my feet I knew the thing was
gonna run. So I was trying to make up as much ground as I possibly
could but there is only so much you can do on a 10’6. It was insane
though. It was really memorable ride. I was positioned pretty well in
the barrel and I was going pretty fast. I got a really good vision before I
got pounded. And I got really really pounded. Suplexed me right on the
reef. I got a pretty good bruise on my butt still (about a week later now).
But it was worth it. It was a really bad beating but it was a great ride,
70
John Carper has a unique
perspective on the evolution of
Shane Dorian’s surfing career.
JC has been shaping Shane
Dorian’s surfboards for over
two decades, and over the
course of their relationship
has played a vital role in Shane
becoming the best big wave
surfer in the world. As Shane
has pushed big wave paddle
performance barriers, JC has continually refined the charger’s
big wave equipment. From start to finish, John builds Shane-O’s
guns by hand. That’s right, JC just doesn’t shape the blank, he
paints and glasses these guns all himself. “Most shapers think
that what they shape is the end product, and all it is is a matrix
for the glass to go over. They don’t understand the variation of
thickness really changes the shape,” says John. Another thing
people might not realize is that these big wave guns are glassed
twice, making the board weigh 25 pounds.
Shane and JC’s big wave surfboard project is a collaboration that
began in 2001 and 2002 with the design of the original retro
rocket. Made for thick slabs, this red 6’3 JC is a short and wide
board with a pulled in swallow tail. Surfed primarily at The Box,
Backdoor and Off the Wall, it was designed to be ridden in place
of a 7’6. With a beak nose (turned down nose), the nose gives
a lower entry and extra paddling power. Since the nose has a
reverse foil, if it goes underwater it naturally seeks the surface,
which is critical when surfing big waves. John explains this is
now called “wave piercing technology.”
Over the years, JC and Dorian have continued to make bigger
boards using the same design features of the retro rocket.
This design evolution has ultimately led to the 10’6 guns that
Shane-O now surfs out at Jaws that have considerably less
nose rocker than most traditional rhino chasers. Even though
the boards are 3 3/4 thick, the surfboards are still extremely
maneuverable, and have a nice carving rail that
allows Dorian to set the rail and drive through
the barrel. With all the subtle details that go
into these craft, JC’s quad fin guns could very
well be the most high performance surfboards
ever made.
an amazing wave and a great two days of epic surf.
What does a wipeout at Jaws feel like?
It’s pretty horrific when you get a really bad wipeout at Jaws. A lot
of big waves break hard, like Waimea will break super hard and has
a really intense point of impact. A lot of power and intensity right
there. But Jaws comes in like a peak. The left and the right are kind of
bending at each other and it creates this crazy apex. And all the power
from both sides coming down and essentially creating twice as much
force and intensity. When you fall it sucks you into that vortex. I don’t
know how to explain it better than that. It just rag dolls the hell out of
you. It just drains you. The whole time your just trying to fight it and it’s
trying to pull you down. Trying to pull you in, spin you around. It’s just
a matter of trying to keep a level head and keeping calm and trying to
conserve energy and conserve breath.
Tell us about your safety equipment for the session?
There is no doubt about it that the safety equipment is starting to
come into play. The V1 Inflable wetsuit that we designed, its been
embraced by the big wave community. This time there were probably
like 35 guys paddling Jaws, and probably 30 guys had the suit on.
Which is so surreal for me to paddle out there and look around and
see this suit on almost every single guy. And out of the 5 that didn’t
have it 3 wanted it, and are on the list for the next round of suits we
ordered. So it’s strange for me but it’s exciting as well. It is definitely,
psychologically, helping to push the bar higher, a bit quicker. I’m not
gonna deny that feeling safer gives you more confidence, there is no
doubt about that, that’s human nature. But the bottom line is, I think
we are safer out there with it. Safety for me is always first. I want to
come home at night. My life is very important to me. And my kids. And
my family. Its neat to see everybody out there with them.
Where will big wave surfing go from here?
On a big day like that, normally guys are just trying get a big one and
make the drop. But you’d see people paddling like it was Backdoor.
They’d be eyeing this fanging lip, and stand up instantly in tube stance,
on a 10’6, on like a 25 foot wave. I think we’re gonna see a lot more
of that. Just makes it really dangerous though. When conditions are
like that, paddling in a 10’6 and getting ready to pack the barrel, makes
it really dangerous and really technical. But we’re seeing a lot of guys
elevate their game and we’re seeing a lot of good guys come into the
picture that are a lot younger. They have a lot more time. That youthful
exuberance, and maybe not so wise yet. It’s really fun to watch those
guys out there on full on attack mode at 18 or 19. That’s exciting for me
to watch.
Shane’s board design with John Carper
Big wave pintail gun
Length: 10’6”
Thick: 3.75”
Width: 21”
Weight: 25 lbs.
Quad fin, glassed twice.
Shane’s board specs
By Sue Li and Lauren Shanahan
Malama Pono. Take care of my ocean. Be nice. These are just a few of the hand
painted children’s signs that adorn the entrance of Kohanaiki, more commonly
known as Pinetrees, on the Big Island. They serve as a reminder to all who surf,
camp, snorkel, and dive here that the land and water are sacred and shared by
all. The nonprofit organization Kohanaiki Ohana was founded with the intention
to keep Hawaiian traditions alive, keep the value of aloha strong, and create
individual advocates for the land and sea.
Big Island’s kapuna (elders) and keiki (kids) help inspire and guide Kohanaiki
Ohana. Community events, conservation activities, youth projects, and cultural
education all help keep the program alive and encourage growth. In 1994,
Kohanaiki Ohana developed a vision statement that aimed to keep Kona’s coast
(specifically Pinetrees beach) open and available to the public. “We envision
a coastline where our community can continue to gather in an area open for
fishing, surfing, camping and other recreational and cultural activities”, reads the
statement. Close to attaining their goals, Kohanaiki Ohana continues to focus
energy on the completion of a park, and also toward a very promising group; the
keiki of Hawaii.
Rebecca Villegas, who works with members of Kohanaiki Ohana to organize Keiki
Surf for the Earth events, recalls the driving force behind the event’s inception;
it was the kids who rallied their parents for a surf contest at their home break,
where they could feel safe and supported. “In 2013, we will celebrate the 18th
Annual Keiki Surf & Beach Clean Up. With the near completion of a county park
at Kohanaiki, and the challenges associated with so much change, it’s more vital
than ever that we remain vigilant. Our goals remain the education, inclusion,
and support of our keiki and their ohana. It’s vital to the success of the park
that future generations continue to acknowledge their kuleana (responsibility) to
malama (take care, preserve, protect) this place.”
This past year, families participated in a beach cleanup, arts and crafts, and
environmental and cultural trivia. Kids under the age of 14 also competed in a
Community
Perpetuating Kohanaiki, Preserving the Landfriendly surf contest, where every child who participated
received a handmade goody bag with prizes donated by
local businesses and other corporations. “Sportsmanship
outweighs performance,” Villegas explains. “Kids are really
encouraged to focus on participation instead of just focusing
on the next heat of competition.” Older kids are also
encouraged to stay involved by mentoring their younger peers
and helping organize raffles and prizes.
Above all, Keiki Surf for the Earth emphasizes the importance
of caring for the beach. “Only with responsibility comes the
privilege of activities at the beach and the surf contest,” says
Villegas. A stewardess of the beach community, this local
leader feels it part of her kuleana to perpetuate the tradition
of preserving the land. Villegas also hopes to maintain the
intention, integrity, and purpose of Keiki Surf for the Earth for
future generations. She looks forward to seeing Kohanaiki
continue to serve as a gathering place for her grandchildren,
their children, and the rest of Kona’s community. For more
information or to get involved, please visit www.kohanaiki.org.
Pho
tos:
Reb
ecca
Vill
egas
Reb
ecca
Vill
egas
74
She Rips
Maluhia and Mainei Kinimaka
Kauai has surfing legends that are mythic. These stories are large in character and born from the sea.
Titus Kinimaka is a man prominently entrenched as a legend of surfing.
Titus’s daughters, Maluhia (age fourteen) and Mainei (age sixteen) have been born to these waters
and have been competing since they were ten and fourteen. His wife Robin sat down with me and
we talked about what it is like to raise girls on Kauai and how important it is to her for them to get an
education. With this combination it is no surprise these girls are strong and wise beyond their years.
When the Kinimaka girls came in through the door, I was at first struck by their striking beauty, but
during the course of our interview I was blown away by their open honesty. With smiles and a lot of
laughter and often finishing each other’s sentences, they told me a little bit about what it is like coming
into being young women in the competitive surfing world.
Bry
ce J
ohns
on
By Jericho Rell
Bry
ce J
ohns
on
How has it been traveling around the world, has it changed your perspective
on Kauai?
Mainei: For sure we’ve been really lucky, we’ve been to France, Spain and surf great
spots. It feels really good to come back to Kauai because it’s small and our family is
everywhere.
Maluhia: Yeah sometimes people get the “Kauai Syndrome” where they get stuck in their own little world. But when you get to travel and you come
back, you just see things so different. There’s no place like home.
How long have you been sponsored by Roxy?
Mainei: Since I was 13 and Mahulia was 11. They are the best they make such great stuff and they are so supportive too.
What kind of boards do you ride?
Pang Boards and Town and Country Boards. Lately our dad has been shaping our boards in the yard. We just keep trying things we like about each
board and then try another one and improve it.
Who are your surfing mentors, besides your parents? Anyone in women’s surfing that has really inspired you?
Mainei: Lisa Anderson for sure would be one, and Carissa Moore, Malia Manuel, Bethany for her courage that she has kept persevering no matter
what.
How is it balancing out school with competing?
Mainei: I am so tired, it’s so hard balancing it out, but it’s so worth it. I go to school, surf, and then study.
She Rips
Latr
onic
Maluhia: She (Mainei) has AP classes and I look at the stuff I am going to have to
do that I am going to have to take and I’m like, great, I am going to have to do that
too.
Mainei: It’s good not to have all your eggs in one basket so if something doesn’t
work out you have school.
You are well known up-and-coming surfers. And having Titus as a father who
is also well known, how has that made your experience different?
Maluhia: Well we try not to hide behind our dad. We try to make our own name. But it’s really cool to have the ultimate waterman as your dad. You
know I can just say “dad my fin broke” and he can fix it.
Does he ever take you ever tow out with him?
Mainei: One thing that he does want us to do is get to know how to use skis and all that, and it’s something really important to him. When there are
big swells he’ll take out the Jet Ski, put Maluhia in the driver’s seat and I’ll tow behind.
Maluhia: Towing is pretty fun. It’s invigorating to drop in.
Mainei: It’s almost easier because you are already standing up. You just have to commit.
Maluhia: The only time I’ve been really scared, I think it was the first time… I think I was maybe like ten. I caught a small one and I fell and a big set
came in.
What has been the most exciting competition you have competed in this year?
Mahulia: We did a Junior Pro at Waikiki. I got second and Mainei got third. We did all the NSSA’s and we did nationals.
She Rips
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What would you like to say about women’s surfing as a whole
right now?
Mainei: Women’s surfing…well I know the thing right now is for all
the girls to wear tiny bikini’s but it gets a little intimidating sometimes
where you feel pressured by others.
Maluhia: I mean look at Carissa. She doesn’t wear small bikinis, she
just rips and everyone knows it.
Right you want to be known for your surfing not your bikini…
Mainei: I think it distracts from the point of surfing, you surf to have
fun and be in the water. It’s not for showing off yourself.
What would you like to see for the future of Kauai?
Manei: I would like to keep the island like it is. It’s kind of sad to think
about when we are older, is our kids going to be able to see what we
see now? Are we going to be able to go surf and see these peeling
rights at the bowl and have at the most 40 people out? I don’t want it
to be crowded.
Maluhia: Right. It is such a pristine place.
Mainei: I would like to keep the island like it is. There’s nowhere in the
world like this.
She Rips
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THE SUPERTIDETEAM-DESIGNED, CUSTOM-BUILT, ONE-OF-A-KIND.
SUPERTIDE_RED_BRUCE_RHP_TRIM SPECS_7.875x10.375.indd 1 11/15/12 4:07 PM
Barron Mamiya
Sponsors: Hurley, Smith Optics, Channel Island surfboards, North
Shore Surf Shop, Darkride & Surfin’ Tacos
Favorite band: Dubstep
Favorite Movie: Dear Suburbia
Post sesh grinds: Surfin’ Tacos
Best result: Winning USA Championships under 12 division.
Sitting in the middle of an expert crowd of pros and pipe specialists, while
being the size of a hobbit is far from an easy feat. However, Barron Mamiya
has managed to pull this off in great style, and without abnormally hairy
feet. In all seriousness, I have never seen a grom surf Pipe this well since...
you know, that kid with two first names. A bright future is ahead for this
young ripper. And at the very least some more epic barrels. Just don’t
forget to do your homework Barron, and be sure to thank uncle Duane for
not calling you off that wave. -Chris Latronic
Grom Report
If there is any one particular grom to lookout for this winter, our
sources tell us it’s Barron Mamiya. Born and raised on the north
shore of Oahu, Barron has been blessed to grow up surfing the
waves of the seven mile miracle. V-Land, Sunset, and Pipeline have
helped push Barron’s surfing in a very quick amount of time.
In late October, I was privileged to witness Mamiya’s immense
potential out at hollow Backdoor. Barron’s prowess on a surfboard
is evident; from navigating through the crowded lineup, getting
into position, and putting on the grom blinders on as he deftly
took off on a beautifully shaped 6 foot backdoor nugget. Seeing
the small grom pull into a heaving Backdoor pit, my first thought
was “instant wipe out in a glorious closeout.” But Barron’s wave
shattered that misconceived notion as he packed a legit Backdoor
keg.
Duane DeSoto, the 2010 ASP World Longboard Champion was
sitting inside of Barron on that wave. Duane later commented
to me, “I was gonna go, but then I saw Barron... and he wasn’t
stopping for no one.” As Duane can attest, being a grom is tough.
And being a grom on the north shore, even tougher. And ask any
grom about surfing pumping Pipeline, it doesn’t get any tougher
than that.
Hef
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www.diamondheadsurfboards.com
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North Shore Menehune Surf Championships
News & Events
Surf season officially kicked off this past October 20, 21, 27, & 28 at Haleiwa Beach Park with the 36th Annual North Shore Menehune Surf
Championships. This family friendly surf contest draws the brightest future surf stars from all over Hawaiian Islands, and this year’s event was
no exception. The menehune were surfing better than ever, and the aloha and good times permeated over both weekends. With so many past
competitors having made the upper ranks of pro surfing, the North Shore Menehune Surf Championships acts as the first step for the majority of
Hawaii’s pro surfers. The unequivocal highlight of the event was again the Kokua division, where beginning surfers paddled out with the assistance of
their parents. Be sure to check out the website for all results @ www.northshoremenehunecontest.com and photos. Freesurf can’t wait for the 37th
edition next year!
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kaleimaeolehandcrafted jewelry
Earth friendly Fine Silver Sunrise Shells
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Open Saturdays from 8 am - 2pm
North Shore Country MarketSunset Beach Elementary School across the
street from Pipeline
or
News & Events
O’Neill’s Coldwater Water Classic, the longest running surf contest in
Northern California, has just played host to the world’s 34 best surfers.
2012 marked the first time this event was part of the WCT Dream
Tour. Normally a WQS event, the Coldwater Classic is an iconic surf
competition held at Santa Cruz’s Steamer Lane. An extremely tricky
wave, the event saw a host of top seeds knocked out early in the draw.
John John Florence was one such casualty, falling in the 2nd round to
eventual finalist Matt “Wilko” Wilkinson. John John’s early loss sees
the rookie bumped out of the 2012 world title race. Meanwhile, Taj
Burrow won his second event of the year, barely pipping fellow Aussie
Matt Wilkinson in a hard fought final. Congrats Taj!
The Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) has just announced that
the Drug Aware Margaret River Pro in Western Australia will be a fully
sanctioned World Championship Tour (WCT) event for both the men and
women starting in 2014. Having been a long standing Prime event in the
WQS, many of the top WCT surfers already surf the event. The most
excited professional surfer has to be Yallingup local Taj Burrow, who will
finally get to compete in a WCT event at home. In a coup for women’s
professional surfing, the women’s event will become a WCT event
starting in 2013. Freesurf is stoked to see another great wave added to
tour!
Western Australia Scores
Taj Wins O’NeillColdwater Classic
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Haleiwa Beachside GalleyHaleiwa
Beachside Galley
Haleiwa’s New Gourmet Food Truck !!
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News & Events
The 2nd Annual Steep and Deep Pipeline Photo Challenge Begins
Saturday, November 10 and closes on February 10. Any surfer who
registers has a chance to win. And any photographer, regardless of
magazine, brand or media affiliation, is eligible to win. All entries must
occur during free surf sessions — no waves ridden during a heat will be
considered. Images will be judged by a panel of Sion’s peers, Pipeline
specialists and photography experts.
The winning surfer and photographer will receive $2500 each from Vans,
as well as a custom hardwood framed copy of the winning image. Vans
will also give a matching $5,000 donation to the Sion Milosky Memorial
Fund. For more information, go to Livelikesion.com.
After just two years, Surfline’s Wave of the Winter continues to push
North Shore performances into new realms...with no signs of slowing
down. Nike returns again as the presenting sponsor, offering $25-large
to the winning surfer and five-Gs to the accompanying filmer. And this
year, Clif Bar will plunk down an increased $20,000 for the Overall
Performance Award-- $10,000 to the surfer with an additional $10,000
donation made in his or her name to a non-profit that benefits the local
community and/or environment. Add it up and that’s a total purse of
$50,000. Wave of the Winter runs November 1st through February.
On March 1st, an esteemed panel of judges led by Gerry Lopez will
select the ultimate winning wave/surfer as well as the season’s Overall
Performance Award.
Waimea Valley is a wonderful venue for Special Events: Weddings, Receptions, Birthday Parties, Workshops
and Seminars. Please call for Event Planning, Facility Rentals and Catering Information.
59-864 Kamehameha Highway Hale`iwa, Hawai`i 96712
(808) 638-7766 www.waimeavalley.net Open 7 daily from 9:00am to 5:00pm
SATURDAY, DECEMBER 1ST (6-10PM)WyLAND GALLERIES BEACHWALK WAIKIKI
226 LEWERS STREET, HONOLULU HI 96815 / 808.924.1322
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 30TH (6-10PM)WyLAND GALLERIES NORTHSHORE MARKETPLACE
66-250H KAMEHAMEHA HWY. HALEIWA HI 96712 / 808.637.8729
The 7th Annua l Surf A rt ShowSATURDAY, DECEMBER 15TH {5-9PM}
IN CONJUNCTION WITH THE VANS TRIPLE CROWN OF SURFING
Kalani David Signs with XcelSurf prodigy and ISA World Games gold medal winner Kalani David has just
signed with Hawaii’s very own Xcel. Hawaii’s biggest wetsuit manufacturer,
Xcel was founded at Sunset Beach in 1982. Kalani David and his progressive,
high flying act will be joining big wave hellions Albee Layer and Greg Long on
Xcel’s surf team. Congratulations Kalani!
Roc
k
News & Events
III Stone Photo ContestIn celebration of the reopening of their Factory Outllet in the Waialua Sugar
Mill, the guys at Third Stone are holding a photo contest. The winner will
take home $500 for submitting what is deemed the best photograph with
“Third Stone” visible. This is not exclusive to surf photos. ANY kind of photo
can win! So long as Third Stone is visible. The photo must be taken on the
North Shore between September 1, 2012 and February 28, 2013. Whether
you are surfing, skating or at a BBQ - we want to see it. Submit photos to
[email protected] or to the Third Stone Facebook page.
Dr. John Jones
Dentistry
Surf with a smile
1441 Kapiolani boulevard suite 907, honolulu, hawaii 96814
808 955 0058
(808) 349-2259
Jay Moriarty is a name that resonates with many Santa Cruz locals and
surfers worldwide. Whether through a personal relationship, inspired
way of life, or the familiar “Live like Jay” and “Never Forget Jay Moriarty”
bumper stickers that decorate stop signs and metal railings along East
Cliff, this big wave surfer made an impression at an early age. It’s no
wonder why directors Curtis Hanson and Michael Apted, in conjunction
with Fox Pictures and Walden Media, released “Chasing Mavericks” on
October 20th of this year- just in time for the Cold Water Classic. (A newly
added stop on the ASP World Tour event list). The film is not only a tribute
to Moriarty’s life, but also to big wave surfing, the small town of Santa
Cruz, and the essence of accomplishment. And of course, what Jay left
behind; a message to live each day wholeheartedly.
Albeit the movie had overt tones of Hollywood corn and “coming-of-age”
plot tactics, the sentiment behind the film is what makes watching it
worthwhile. Based on a true story, the audience is introduced to countless
names and places that have helped shaped Santa Cruz’s reputation.
“Chasing Mavericks” traces Moriarty’s life from his first encounter with
Half Moon Bay’s freak wave to his career changing wipeout on an El Nino
Mavericks swell at the age of 16. Within the plot are non-original themes
that flesh out the story beyond just its surf scenes, and critics have been
quite harsh on these reviews. So let’s just recount the good stuff.
The cinematography of the film depicts the notorious surf town and its
neighboring mammoth wave as it was in the 80’s and 90’s. Moriarty’s
experiences as a teenager lend cameos to Pleasure Pizza, The Boardwalk,
Pearson-Arrow Surfboard Factory, and other familiar Santa Cruz scenery.
The climax of the movie (and quite possibly its redeeming factor) is when
the Mavericks crew, (Peter Mel, Greg Long, and Zach Wormhoudt) along
with Jonny Weston (who plays Jay) paddle out and reenact the day that
El Nino brought the swell of 1994. The intense imagery of boats, jet skis,
and surfers climbing monstrous wave faces is by far the best, heavy water
scenery of the movie. While you probably won’t feel the same effects of
this scene on your home TV as you would on the theatre’s big screen,
we recommend waiting to rent the movie. Entertaining, yet only quasi-
impactful, I will admit that this movie accomplishes a poignancy that can
only come from the true stories of a unique individual.
-Lauren Shanahan
Movie Review
Chasing Mavericks
Last Look
Last Look
Mason Ho styles through the tube like no other. Photo: outbluffum.com
Last Look
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