88 SPC May 2018

F ragrances and perfumes are essentialoils (made using traditionalprocesses) and alcohol-basedsynthetic solutions (obtained viamodern industrial processes) applied

to enhance body odour. The regulatory bodies of various countries

define them based on regional understandingand their intended use. For example, the USFood and Drug Administration (USFDA)perceives fragrances that are intended to beapplied to a person’s body as cosmetics. In theMiddle East, they are termed as only ‘perfumes’. It is necessary for manufacturers to

understand these regional differences before

In the Middle East,the regulatory focusis on product safetyand a recognised riskmanagement system

planning their market entry into a targetedregion/country. Today, people perceive perfumes and

fragrances as less of a status mark and more of anecessity. Increased income and spendingcapabilities have supported this trend and aredriving product usage fervently, creating anopportunity for many internationally recognisedfashion brands to claim a market share, attractingboth the uber-rich and commoners alike.Destined to reach millions of lives, perfumes

and fragrances are subject to stringent evaluationfor safety and efficacy. Manufacturers arerequired to establish products’ quality as per thestandards laid out by domestic regulations inindividual regions/countries and are responsiblefor carrying out post-market surveillance for anyadverse reactions on the user end. The Middle East, with its huge demand for

fragrance, exhibits caution to ensure consumersafety. For a manufacturer wanting to gain amarket stake in the region, the onus lies in their

As demand for fragrances in the Middle Eastcontinues to grow, Roshini Raj explores thefragrance industry’s regulatory frameworkacross the region

FRAGRANCEIN THEMIDDLEEAST

regulatory middle east

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standards in the perfumery industry. All thefragrance products must therefore match withinternational standards before the productlaunch. Across the Middle East, differentmarkets perceive fragrances and perfumesdifferently. Here we list a few:

KINGDOM OF SAUDI ARABIA (KSA)KSA is the biggest perfume and fragrance marketin the Middle East. It does not provide separateregulations for fragrances and perfumes; insteadit recognises them under cosmetics and personalcare products. With no specific definition forperfumes and fragrances, suppliers and importersof fragrances and perfumes in the KSA shouldadhere to the usual regulation applicable tocosmetics as the final rule.

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES (UAE)UAE declares fragrances and perfume productsto be a sub-section of cosmetics and personalcare products, defining them as “any perfume orperfumery product offered for sale, such asmusk, dehn al oudh, incense and other perfumetypes, which emits a pleasant odour so that it canbe used as a perfume”. ESMA is the competent authority in the UAE

for regulating such products, while the EmiratesConformity Assessment Scheme (ECAS) willassist in the testing and certification forregistration of conformity to compliancerequirements of products manufactured andimported into the country. According to ESMA,fragrances and perfume products are dividedinto five categories based on the percentage ofperfume in the solution. The percentages andrelevant names are:• Concentrated perfumes are solutions with a minimum of 20% perfume and their product compound in it• Perfumes or extracts are solutions with 15-20% perfume and their product compound in it• Eaux de parfum are solutions with 8-15% perfume and their product compound in it• Eaux de toilette are solutions with 4-8% perfume and their product compound in it• Eaux de cologne are solutions with 1-4% perfume and their product compound in it.The supplier (as manufacturers are referred

to by the UAE authority) must ensure the following safety and quality requirements to conform to regulatory compliance:• The supplier must refer to the terms laid down by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) for the presence of any prohibited, restricted and specific ingredients in the manufacturing of fragrances and perfume products • The supplier shall test the products for safety and quality using an accredited laboratory and must provide documentation of the results

With atraditionalinclinationtowardsperfumes and a rapidincome surge,the regionoffers immensepotential for globalmanufacturersof fragrancesand perfumeproducts to tap into

understanding the regulatory frameworks andprocedural challenges, and practicingcompliance throughout.Across the globe, the Middle East region is

among the largest consumers of fragrances andperfume products. Market growth in the regionis second in the world, behind only LatinAmerica. With a traditional inclination towardsperfumes and a rapid income surge, the regionoffers immense potential for globalmanufacturers of fragrances and perfumeproducts to tap into. In the Middle East, the regulatory focus is on

product safety and a recognised riskmanagement system for the safe use of fragranceingredients to ensure there is no risk for theconsumer or the environment. These parameters are regulated by various

bodies including The Fragrance FoundationArabia and the Emirates Authority forStandardization and Metrology (ESMA). All these regulations are in line with global

middle east regulatory

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• In case the supplier observes the presence of any allergens beyond the threshold limit of 0.001%, they shall declare the same (in labelling and packaging).Labelling and packaging requirements that

are consistent with the regional law must beapplied by the supplier. The commonrequirements are:• The supplier shall comply with packaging and labeling requirements in the Gulf Standard (UAE.GSO ISO 22715:2008) • All information shall be visible, legible and declared in clear Arabic and English languages• Pictures and illustrations which are inconsistent with the prevailing social customs and values in the UAE shall not be used, nor any religious phrases• The supplier shall not claim any medical benefits for their perfumes or products• In compliance with quality and safety standards, the supplier shall declare the observed allergens on the label.The supplier holds responsibility for

providing any required additionaldocumentation when and if required, and formaintaining all records for submission. Theproduct supplier is granted the below depictedEmirates Quality Mark (EQM) once ESMA findscompliance with all regulations are in place. It grants conformity to products that arecompliant with such standards, manufactured by organisations with an effective qualitymanagement system. However, local municipalities such as Dubai

have placed additional restraints to scrutinisecompanies. So, more filtering may be imminentfor suppliers. Usually, the KSA and UAE registration

certificates for fragrances and perfumes areperceived as the gold standards by most of theother countries in the Middle East. Often, noadditional requirements are called for othercountries in the region. Even if required, themanufacturer must provide as per the regionalhealth authority standards.

LANGUAGE FOR LABELLING OR ARTWORKThe labelling requirement should comply withthe regulations of the Gulf StandardOrganization. With regard to GSO 1943:2016,the name of the product, its trademark, thename and address of the manufacturer ordistributor, the country of origin, the content ofproduct and the date of manufacturing, both onprimary and secondary packaging, are requiredin English and/or Arabic. The name of the product, usage and

warning/precautions instructions and storageinstructions for safe use shall be presented inboth Arabic and English language on theproduct label. These are some of the mandatory

requirements in the Middle East before theregistration of perfume products.To conclude, the perfumes and fragrances

industry in the Middle East is constantlyevolving. Currently, the UAE and Saudi Arabiaare leading the fragrance markets in the GCC.Because of the rise in people’s economic status,increased beauty consciousness and a rise inspending on cosmetics, many of the large andmedium-sized perfume and fragrancecompanies are eyeing Middle East market entry.From a regulatory perspective, it is predictedthat in future there will be no trade secrecy forperfume formulas. With great opportunities lying ahead, it would

be safe to say that the perfumes and fragrancesmarket is burgeoning and constantly growing inthe region. But, before stepping into the region,manufacturers must clearly evaluate theirregulatory priorities and ensure compliance isthoroughly met with authoritative marketintelligence for a smooth market entry

AuthorRoshini Raj, Freyr Solutionswww.freyrsolutions.com

If compliant, theproduct supplier is granted theEmirates QualityMark (EQM)

Usually, the KSAand UAEregistrationcertificates forfragrances andperfumes areperceived as thegold standardsby most of theother countriesin the MiddleEast

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