Foodshed Fall 2012

autumn 2012 Eat where you live.

Amber Waves in C’ville

True Grits

Marian Burros’s Holiday Gift Guide

Man on FireTarver King

Virginia Cider Week 2012

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www.CheriWoodard.comCountry Living in rappahannoCk County

Gay Street Inn is the premiere Bed and Breakfast in Rappahannock County, Virginia. It has an excellent location, outstanding facilities, and a very successful business model. This turnkey business is a fantastic opportunity to live and work in an idylic small town. It has 5 guest rooms plus innkeeper’s quarters. $995,000

Gay Street Inn, WaShInGtonTwin Brooks is a hidden gem. Superbly sited on 25 serene acres, this architectural beauty has a stunning setting overlooking a picturesque pond. Includes 4 bedrooms, 3.5 baths, gourmet kitchen, guest quarters, garage, lovely landscap-ing and much more. $939,000

tWIn BrookS, LaureL MILLS

Frog’s Leap Farm is a picture-postcard of a farm sequestered in a private glen. The heart of the farm is an unusually large log home that was completely renovated in 2005. It has 3 – 4 bedrooms, a gourmet kitchen, great room, dining room, library, six fire-places, and a sunny office on the lower floor. The 70 acre farm includes a log cabin guest house, caretaker’s cottage, several barns, a six stall horse barn, board fencing, brick gar-den shed and a large pond. $1,795,000

FroG’S Leap FarMCaStLeton

This is a magical property with a sense of history, an ideal location, luxurious landscaping, a historic home with 4 bdr. and 2.5 bth., and much more. Additional improvements include a swimming pool, 3-car ga-rage, six stall horse barn, and a picturesque pond, all on 30 acres. $749,000

the FarM on aShBy Lane, etLan

37C Main Street, Sperryville, VA 22740 540-987-8500Cheriwoodard Realty

This property has a special setting in a gentle hol-low beside a strong mountain stream. The original portion of this 4bdr., 3.5 bth house is built on the foundation of an old mill. Included on this 11 acre property is a 2 bdr. log guest house and several de-pendencies. $1,495,000

MILL hILL road, huntLyThis cute little cottage with 5 acres sits high above Riley Hollow on a gentle knoll with great winter views (summer too with a little tree work). It has a simple open floor plan with one bedroom, one bath and a large sleeping loft above. The rear deck is a great gathering spot. $225,000

BoLton BranCh Lane, huntLyA special 25.9 +/- acre parcel with fantastic views of the Blue Ridge Mountains and pic-turesque rolling fields. The land is mostly open pasture with 4 board fencing, stone walls and a potential pond site. Perfect for horses, cattle or a vineyard. $282,000

LyLe Lane, aMISSvILLe

2 food-shed.org autuMn 2012

I am so excited to be publishing Foodshed—it’s the perfect expression of what I’ve been working towards in my personal life and career for many years.

A couple of times a week my associates and I get a call or email, or wander into a beautiful little shop, and strike up a conversation. Sometimes it is with a landowner looking for a sustainable farmer to work his land. Or a farmer looking for a new market to sell her goods. Or a shopkeeper saying they want to sell local eggs and grass-fed meat but don’t have time to find the sources.

And each time—usually in 30 minutes or less—we find a farmer, or a market, or pastured eggs that can be delivered right to their door.

Foodshed magazine is in the connecting business. It is why we exist: to connect eaters with farmers and chefs, farmers with cooks and distributors, and retailers with customers and excellent local sources.

But we’re not just a magazine. We’re a non-profit organization dedicated to linking the people who are rebuilding local and community-based food systems to each other, to consumers, and to investors. We do this because we want local, sustainable food- and drink-based businesses to succeed. It improves the local

economy, the environment, the lives of farm workers and livestock, and the taste and quality of what we eat and drink. And we believe everyone should have access to clean, wholesome food, regardless of income.

If you think so too, you’ve found your place. Thanks for reading, and check out food-shed.org for more on what we do and who we are.

Melissa

l e t t e r f r o m t h e p u b l i s h e r

Home Grown HarvestWelcome to Willowsford Farm

A real vision for healthy, inspired living is emerging in Loudoun County in the new community of Willowsford.

At the heart of this unique community is Willowsford Farm. Here, “farm-to-table,” “locally grown,” and “seasonal

eating” are part of everyday life. Willowsford Farm’s homegrown harvests, along with other local products are now

available at our Farm Stand every Saturday through November from 10am to 2pm at the Grange.

Learn More About Us and How to Join Our 2013 CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) Program! Membership Perks Include Loudoun County

Wine and Weekly Tips and Recipes from Willowsford’s Culinary Director.

www.WillowsfordFarm.com

Prices and terms set forth herein are provided by home builders within Willowsford who are not affi liated with the owner and developer of the community. Such prices and terms, and the quality of the home builder’s homes, are not verifi ed or warranted by owner Willowsford, L.L.C. or its affi liates. Dues, fees and assessments may be imposed for the use of some amenities. This material shall not constitute an offer or solicitation in any state where prior registration is required.

© 2012 Willowsford, L.L.C. Willowsford, Willowsford Conservancy, Inspired Living and A Naturally Planned Community are all trademarks of Willowsford, L.L.C. Inspired Magazine, August 2012.

Internationally acclaimed farmer, conference speaker, and author Joel Salatin and his family operate Polyface Farms in Au-gusta County near Staunton, Va., producing and direct-marketing “salad bar” beef, “pigaerator” pork, and pastured poultry. He is also co-owner of T&E Meats in Harrisonburg.

Washington, Va.-based Sylvie Rowand offers personal chef and in-home catering services using seasonal ingredients sourced from the Northern Piedmont. She teaches cooking and canning and blogs at www.Laughing-DuckGardens.com.

Lise Metzger is an award-winning photographer based in Virginia. She is a site host for Lancaster Farm Fresh’s CSA and an enthusiastic canner. She con-tributes both to the magazine and the Foodshed blog. You can see more of her work at www.lisemetzger.com.

Marian Burros was on staff at the New York Times for 27 years and still writes for the paper. She worked at the Washington Post, the Washington Star and Wash-ington Daily News as well as D.C.’s WRC-TV. The author of 13 cook-books, she has been writing about small farms and the pleasures of local food since the 1980s.

Mattieu Finot was born in the Rhone Valley of France. Mat-thieu comes from a family of vi-ticulturists and wine lovers, and studied viticulture and oenology at Beaune, in the heart of Bur-gundy. He has worked in many different wine regions around France including Rhone Valley, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Provence, and Jura, and in Italy and South Africa before settling in Virginia in 2003. He teaches classes on winemaking and taste analysis at Piedmont Valley Community College. When not at the winery, Matthieu plays rugby, rock climbs, cooks, snowboards, and drinks wine with his friends.

Paige Campbell lives, writes, and eagerly welcomes butternut squash season in Abingdon, Va. On behalf of the Appalachian Farmers Market Association, she writes weekly features to promote the region’s farmers markets in local newspapers. She also contributes to The Ap-palachian Voice.

Daniel Chang Christensen, of Vienna, Va., spent August with other illustrators building a Vermont camp for artists. In September, he returned to Provi-dence for his second year at the Rhode Island School of Design.

Ashlie Hughes is a food, travel, and spirits writer. When she’s not writing, she enjoys playing home bartender, making wine with her husband’s family, and exploring small, historic towns. You can view her website at ashliehughes.com.

Wine columnist Jim Law is the owner and winegrower at Linden Vineyards.

Jodi Macfarlan is a writer and foodie in Charlottesville, Va. Though she’d argue that every meal is better with grits, she thinks the best way to eat them is coupled with spicy shrimp.

John Haddad is a food writer in Richmond and vice chair of Slow Food RVA. Find him at www.epicuriousity.net, @Epicuriousity on Twitter, or slowfoodrva.org.

Rob Moutoux runs Moutoux Orchard in Loudoun County, Va., where he raises livestock, fruit trees, vegetables, and small grains biologically. Soil, health, and tasty food are at the foundation of his notion of good farming.

Danny Spry is a freelance food, portrait, and fitness lifestyle photographer based out of Rich-mond. Danny just returned from a 75-day assignment shooting at the sixteen Family Islands of the Bahamas.

Whitney Pipkin is a journalist who fell for food and farms while covering agri-culture in the Skagit Valley north of Se-attle. She now writes about these topics and others as a freelance writer living in Alexandria, Va. See some of her thoughts on food at thinkabouteat.com.

Jessica Strelitz is a food, wine, and spirits freelance writer, Bos-ton sports freak, news geek and Maine native, living “away” in Arlington, Va. Find updates on her food work and other favorite things on Twitter @jstrelitz.

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Butch Zindel, Broker, GRI, [email protected] Buyers & Sellers since 1976.

540.675.1190Trish Bartholomew / [email protected] Burke / [email protected]

THE OLD PARSONAGERare find in Town of Washington. Circa 1820 Greek Revival, featuring original heart-pine floors, windows, mouldings, mantels and winding staircase, double brick walls from bricks made on site. English Basement plus two floors, expansive entry/stair hall, parlour with fireplace, master bedroom with fireplace and second bedroom. Ready for restoration, room for historic addition on almost one acre of boxwood-lined gardens. Separate artist’s studio with permit for conversion to residential guest cottage or rental. All on town water and sewer. Pleasant walk to post office, shops, and restaurants, yet in a peaceful, private setting. Truly one of a kind. $490,000

GID BROWN HOLLOWTwenty eight and one-half acres served by private right of way between Sperryville and Town of Washington. Driveway meanders by spring-fed pond, old stone foun-dation and chimney to potential house site overlooking the pond. Southwest exposure and views from building site with drilled well. Amazing rock outcroppings can enhance landscaping and be incorporated in gardens. Little underbrush provides for nice, clean walking woods with trails. $349,000

HISTORIC OLD KENNELSCirca 1850, thirty-nine acres with considerable frontage on the Jordan River as well as frontage on two state roads. Twelve-stall barn with hayloft and apartment, another four-stall barn, hay barn, log sheds, guest cottage which needs renovation, main house of 2,300 square feet needs some upgrading, fenced and cross fenced, located in Old Dominion Hunt all offered at $689,000

QUIET ESCAPE TO STANLEYJust outside Luray on 5+ acres, extremely well constructed and comfortable rancher with partially finished basement roughed in for Kitchen makes this an ideal escape for a family or an investment with two “apartments”. Three Bedrooms, two full baths, large glass-enclosed Family Room, Living Room with brick fireplace on the upper level; Great Room with fireplace on lower level, ready for final finishing. $228,000 Twelve acres with mountain views, some woods, mostly pasture adjoining for $127,500. Town Water & Sewer at property.

It’s Coolerin theValley.

It’s Coolerin theValley.

GEWURZTRAMINER, RIESLING,PINOT NOIR, LEMBERGER

GEWURZTRAMINER, RIESLING,PINOT NOIR, LEMBERGER

Ox-Eye VineyardsOx-Eye VineyardsVISIT OUR TASTING ROOM AT 44 MIDDLEBROOK AVE., STAUNTON, VA

FOR DETAILS, VISIT OXEYEVINEYARDS.COM

TRY OUR COOLCLIMATE VARIETIES

TRY OUR COOLCLIMATE VARIETIES

autuMn 2012 food-shed.org 9

20 True GriTsThe nitty gritty on the southern stapleJodi Macfarlan

60 Amber WavesMaking a go of Virginia-grown grains

whitney PiPkin

26Chef on fire The Ashby Inn’s Tarver King reinvents… just about everything.PaMela heSS

39VirGinia Cider Week Celebrate the renaissance of a native tipple.

52holiday GifT GuideMarian Burros’s annual guide to what everyone wants to unwrap this year. Plus, a few staff picks.

62amber WaVesMaking a go of Virginia- grown grains.whitney PiPkin

table of contentsf o o d S h e d M a g a z i n e a U t U M n 2 0 1 2

Mount Welby is a luxurious vacation rental in the foot hills of the Shenandoah Mountains. Sixty miles from D.C. and minutes from Little Washington and Middleburg, this historic house can easily accommodate 12 overnight guests or 125 for a wedding or special event. Relax in the jacuzzi and enjoy spectacular views in every direction after a day of wine tasting at any of ten nearby vineyards.

www.mountwelby.com 540–364-9000

Mount Welby


12 Amuse-Bouchetidbits in local food and wine.

eat

17 Cristina’s Caféliz elkind

20 True GritsJodi Macfarlan

24 The Blue GoatJohn haddad

32 Seasonal KitchenSylVie rowand

drink

40 Virginia Cider Week Mapdaniel chriStenSen

42 Aging Wine in AcaciaMattieU finot

44 Zombies! oyamel resurrects a classic.aShlie hUgheS

46 The Savage CabernetJiM law

48 Port City Brewing CompanyBringing beer back to alexandria.

traVeL

57 Fall Colors in Washington County

FarM

58 A Whole-Diet FarmroB MoUtoUx

ForuM

65 What Mr. Jefferson Didn’t KnowJoel Salatin

66 Is Farm Food Affordable? Paige caMPBell

68 Farm Wineries: a Debate PhiliP carter Strother and JiM law

in eVery issue

2 Letter from the Publisher

71 Guest List

58

Publisher

Melissa J. Harris

ediTor

Pamela R. Hess

direCTor of PhoToGraPhy

Molly McDonald Peterson

desiGn and ProduCTion

BonoTom Studio, Inc

ConTribuTinG ediTor

Steve Tuttle

PhoToGraPher and ediTorial assisTanT

Liz Elkind

assisTanT To The Publisher and PhoToGraPer

Karly Pope

ad desiGner

Callie Broaddus

adVerTisinG manaGer

Stephanie Williams

aCCounT exeCuTiVe

Doug Carden

CirCulaTion & disTribuTion

Alex Harris, Christopher Harris

subsCriPTions & adVerTisinGA one-year, six-issue subscription is $32.00 plus $4.95 shipping and handling. Send subscription and advertising inquiries to:

Foodshed Magazine, Inc.P.O. Box 400Sperryville, VA 22740Voice: (855) 270-7116 [email protected]

Copyright circa 2012 by Foodshed Magazine, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction with permission of the publisher is prohibited. Foodshed is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts and submissions.

Foodshed is an independent, bimonthly publication and is not affiliated with any nationally franchised publications.

Join us on faCebookFind a link at www.facebook.com/FoodshedMag

twitter@FoodshedMag

VoLuMe 1, nuMber 1 autuMn 2012


HeadLines in tHe CapitaL FoodsHed

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An apple a day…Foodshed is proud to sponsor the first-ever Virginia Cider Week nov. 9–18. there are tons of events all over Virginia and d.c. celebrating the resurgence of craft cider. this ain’t woodchuck, folks. true artisanal cider has the food friendly nuances of wine, plus deep historical roots in the old dominion. every home in early Virginia sported a cider orchard—the drink was more common (and safer!) on the dinner table than water.

there will be cider pairing dinners at charlottesville’s The Whiskey Jar and C&O Restaurants, and d.c.’s Birch & Barley; a north/South cider Smackdown between Virginia and the best ciders from the yankee north at Albemarle Ciderworks in north garden; and a pairing of Virginia’s best charcuterie and cider at Belmont Butchery in richmond. there will even be a live “virtual” cider tasting led by frank Morgan of DrinkWhatYouLike.com. taste along with him and share your impressions on twitter. check Foodshed’s website for an updated listing of events, and turn to our centerfold cider map to find Virginia’s celebrated cideries! www.CiderWeekVa.com

Consider the Oyster

Hank’s Oyster Bar opened its third outpost this summer, this one in the

Capitol Hill neighborhood of Washington. While the crowds are flocking for mixologist Gina Chersevani’s inventive cocktails—don’t miss the Jameson’s slushie—many customers are get-ting their first taste of Jack King’s oysters. The 59-year old Alexandria native is a former hippie-turned corporate lawyer-turned boutique oys-ter grower who jokes that Boeing, which kept him on retainer for years, is in many ways to thank for the resurgence of the oyster population. King’s New Point Oyster Co. is one of the pioneers who helped bring oysters back to the bay. He now farms about 100,000 oysters a year for restaurants including Hanks, Old Angers Inn, and Seacatch in Georgetown. His crisp Virginia oysters reflect the salinity and unique mix of minerals in Dyer Creek where they grow.

White grows his bounty in cages he designed to float just under the surface rather than to rest on the bay floor—he believes his design is better for all aquatic life because it doesn’t stir up silt when they are hauled out.

“Growing up when I did, my values were made in 1970s—the EPA was formed, and everything they taught us in school, I was strongly affected by that stuff,” he told Foodshed. White—the great grandson of Capt. Jack White, a Civil War-era oysterman—started growing and selling oysters in 1997 while still practicing law. Retired now from corporate life, he devotes himself full-time to the bivalve.

“I still do some pro bono. I consider my client the Chesapeake Bay and oysters,” he said. “It’s never been about the money. It’s been about the heritage and the Bay.”www.hanksoysterbar.com


amuse-bouche

Actually, you can get more flies with this vinegar.we can’t get enough of Starr Hill beer, locally brewed in crozet, Va., and we’ve now become addicted to it on our fish and chips—that’s right, Starr hill malt vinegar. it’s made by Jay and Stephanie rostow, the husband-and-wife team from Virginia Vinegar Works in nelson county, who produce vinegar the old-fashioned way—distilling it from quality wine and beer and aging it slowly. no short cuts for these guys. Pick up a bottle! Virginiavinegarworks.com

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Farmland Feastwhat would you pay for a six-course dinner made by washington, d.c.’s best chefs? wait, wait! what if we were to tell you it included signature cocktails by todd thrasher, master mixologist? wait! what if it was all to benefit an organization that brought farmers markets roaring back to the nation’s capital? Put down this magazine instantly and secure your tickets to the 10th annual FRESHFARM MARKETS farmlandfeast on november 12. this is where farmers, chefs, and eaters collide for an amazing night of food and celebration of the farms who feed us. Much of the food will be sourced from local farms, and the wines will be among the best in the region (wine growers are farmers too!). tickets to the dinner are $250 and available at www.freshfarmmarkets.org.

FIELD TO FORKFIeldS OF AtHeNry FArm IN PurCellvIlle has added an executive chef to its stable. The farm, beloved for its healthful, grass-fed meats, now boasts Chef Wes rosati in the kitchen. He is turning out prepared comfort foods to take home, serving hot lunches on Saturday, catering parties on the patio, and beefing up the farm’s line of frozen meals for de-livery. If you’re somewhere between Loudoun County and Alexandria, Va., an order on Monday will get you a delivery that Thursday. Or just drive out to the farm yourself, do your shopping, then tuck into Rosati’s meat loaf or lamb ragu.fieldsofathenryfarm.com

NOTHING WASTED

feed the homeless and use produce from an organic family farm that would

otherwise go to waste? cheryl kollin of full Plate Ventures created Farm to

Freezer to do just that. each Saturday, Spiral Path Farm at the Bethesda

FRESHFARM Market donates its unsold organic produce. Some is used

immediately by Bethesda Cares, which provides meals and social services to

the homeless. Some goes to a partner church kitchen where volunteers freeze

vegetables and tomato sauce to be used later by Bethesda cares. anything

leftover is passed along to Manna food center for distribution to needy families.

all the waste from the food prep is composted.

farm to freezer had processed about 2,300 pounds of food in its first 12

weeks and put up 650 pounds of frozen food by mid-summer of its inaugural

season. “it’s an impressive amount of farm-fresh food that would have spoiled,

but will now be used to create healthy meals for our clients,” said Sue kirk,

executive director of Bethesda cares.

kollin sees huge potential for expanding the program: “having a dedicated

commercial kitchen would double our capacity. our goal is to become self-

supporting by selling our sauce and other frozen products at farm markets.”

fresh, local food comes full circle and nourishes a community all along the way.

–Lise Metzger

www.farmtofreezer.wordpress.com

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amuse-bouche

One-stop sippingleAve It tO tHe GeNIuS behind AOL and Zipcar to reinvent the destination winery. Steve and Jean Case are the relatively new owners of early mountain vineyard in Madison Va., and in addition to producing their own wine and opening their 300 acres to picnickers (and pets), they are pouring some of the best wines in Virginia from other vineyards, too—linden, King Family, Chatham, Breaux, Thibaut-Jannison, and Barboursville among them. This gives wine enthusiasts a chance to taste and compare across varietals and geography in one sitting—a true sampling of Virginia terroir. Plus, there are local nibbles (Olli Salumeria, and Surryano ham, and meadowcreek, Caromont, and everona cheeses are on the menu) for full picnic enjoyment at their vineyard market. And, naturally, there are a computer and phone charging station so you’re never out of touch. We’ll drink to that. earlymountain.com

Cry Town gets a proper wine shop CryStAl CIty, vA., long a soulless concrete jungle that catered to defense contractors in town on business with the Pentagon, has come quite a long way. Residents used to brag about never having to go outside—stores and building are connected by an underground warren of hallways

that lead right to the Metro. But now there’s a FreSHFArm market on Tuesday nights through November, outdoor wine and jazz festivals every Friday night of the summer, and a first-class wine store owned by the non-profit Washington Wine Academy. It stocks the finest Maryland and Virginia wines, and proceeds from sales support WWA’s classes, events, and scholarships. With a nod to Crystal City’s unique proximity to the Department of Defense, military employees— as well as law enforcement—can get 10 percent off with I.D. But so can neighborhood residents and local workers who prove their connection to the 22202. The Academy itself is a short (above ground) stroll for wine and beer classes.

Washington Wine Academy Washingtonwineacademy.org

Crystal City Wine shopwww.crystalcitywineshop.com


amuse-bouche

go to food-shed.org for our pastured

thanksgiving turkey guide and a pick-your-own apple

trail map!

ever wonder what blacksburg

tastes like?they’re not just about football down in Blacksburg. the seat of one of the top agricultural programs in the nation is also home to fantastic little restaurants and bistros that cater to an increasing foodie population. their recipes and stories are captured in a beautifully photographed new cookbook “a taste of Virginia tech,” which includes recipes from chefs and home cooks all over town… even head coach frank Beamer’s game-day cake. written by two recent grads, krista gallagher and kris Schoels, the recipes span dining hall favorites, dishes from downtown Blacksburg, and great desserts (the peanut butter pretzel brownies work for us). there are also great dishes contributed by Virginia tech’s dedicated tailgaters. get in that kitchen, hokie! www.atasteofvirginiatech.com

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While every day is food day here at Foodshed, the rest of the country stops to observe it annually on oct. 24. there are events all over the nation celebrating wholesome, authentic food raised by sustainable farmers who treat the soil with respect, their animals with love, and their workers with dig-nity. there were 2,300 events around the U.S. at last year’s inaugural celebration. for a complete listing of events this month, in-cluding a chef’s conference led by freshfarm Market’s ann yonkers and a national conference at the capitol building in d.c., check out food day 2012’s web page.www.foodday.org

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Rapture

3 0 3 E M a i n S t r e e to n t h e D o w n t o w n M a l l

C h a r l o t t e s v i l l e , V Aw w w . c l u b r 2 . c o m

Creole, soul, and low-country dishes prepared with

local, organic, & seasonal ingredients

PlayfullySouthern

Food

Rapture

3 0 3 E M a i n S t r e e to n t h e D o w n t o w n M a l l

C h a r l o t t e s v i l l e , V Aw w w . c l u b r 2 . c o m

Creole, soul, and low-country dishes prepared with

local, organic, & seasonal ingredients

PlayfullySouthern

Food

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e at

Cristina’s Café dinner under a bower, with food plucked from a backyard garden.

liz elkind

This is the story of two sisters who dug a garden, built a groovy café, and enchanted a city. But they did more than that: They created a devoted com-munity that shares two goals—eating well, and reviving

their hometown.The sisters are Crissy and Wendy Willis. The town is Strasburg,

where they grew up but left for points West as soon as they were old enough. Their restaurant is Cristina’s, named for the sisters’ Oaxacan grandmother, the first of three generations of restauranteurs.

“Our family was sort of an anomaly, because we were Mexican. It was a very different culture then,” says Crissy of growing up in Strasburg.

Any question about the devotion they inspire in their home town can be answered this way: Last year, they were having trouble pay-ing for the upkeep of the restaurant’s patio and lush garden designed by their mother. So Crissy and Wendy held a fundraiser and auc-tioned items donated by their customers. One of the prizes was a two-day stay at a beach condo.

The customer who won it handed the prize over to Crissy and Wendy. He told them: “I want you girls to go; you work hard. We want you to get to take a couple of days at the beach,” Crissy said.

More love: When Wendy decamped from Strasburg for California this summer to pursue a master’s degree in food politics and conser-vation, more than 200 people saw her off. The well wishers included a woman who pressed two fresh baked loaves of bread into Wendy’s hands to sustain her on her trip. She told Wendy that Cristina’s gor-geous, healthy food had inspired her “to cook for her family, and just feed them what’s right.”

“It’s really nice to finally feel a sense of community in a town where, growing up, we felt like outsiders. That’s definitely reward-ing. I never understood that sense of community people talked about until moving back,” said Crissy.

Moving back came nearly five years ago, after Crissy gave birth to her son. “I came back to visit, and I gained a new appreciation for the Shenandoah Valley,” she says. “It’s beautiful, it’s a good place to raise my child, and my family’s here.” Ph

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With help from her recently retired restauranteur mother and handyman stepfather, Crissy opened what was intended to be a simple coffee shop. Six months later, Wendy returned home, too.

Food gradually joined coffee on the menu. Wendy began reaching out to local farmers, driving to as many regional markets and food stands as possible to make inquiries. “It was like detective work,” she says. It took about a year and a half to establish relationships with the farmers, and now even local gardeners show up at the kitchen door.

“It’s people who just have a little bit in their backyard and they have extra, and they might bring me squash, and I’ll barter, ” says Crissy.

“We love bartering, ’cause it’s kind of a win-win situation.” A gallon of honey gets a $60 café credit. “I firmly believe that everybody wants to eat good food. Everybody.

And accessibility is a big part of it, as well as economics,” says Crissy. Cristina’s serves up seasonal, local, and absolutely delicious com-

fort food, seamlessly blending Mexican, Asian, and Italian influences with typical American standards and, often, an unexpected twist.

One bite of Cristina’s butternut squash Bundt cake and the source of inspiration is clear. The whisper-thin carmelized crust crackles beauti-fully, giving way to a tender cake both savory and sweet from the squash.

Cristina’s zucchini enchiladas are another menu item that sounds unlikely at first. But taste it: fresh veggies, pleasantly spicy and wrapped in nutty corn tortillas and cheese, sparked by a cool, bright tomatillo sauce on the side.

Or try one of the sisters’ permutations of mac & cheese, often with Mexican and Italian accents: roasted poblano cheese sauce, topped

with parmesan, bread crumbs, and prosciutto, and then broiled.“It’s just decadent. It’s so sexy,” says Crissy.Keeping an eye on the budget sometimes means choosing between

supporting their neighbors or buying organic. The sisters usually opt to invest in regional food producers.

Crissy laughs: “My sister suffers from seasonal impulsive produce purchasing disorder. That’s the tough part about this—the cost that comes with ethics and standards. It’s worth it, and people understand why we’re doing it, but you have to have balance. I’d like to be 100 percent local, which is not really feasible.”

Of course, Cristina’s still isn’t as cheap as the fast-food joints down the road, so Crissy spends time explaining why to customers.

“This is a factory town, really, and a lot of the factory jobs were lost and sent overseas. I tell people, ‘Wouldn’t you rather buy from your neighbor than buy produce from South America or California? These are your neighbors; let’s all support each other as a community.’”

Part of that support is the Friday evening producers-only farmers market that Crissy and Wendy started. Spaces are allotted, for free, on a first-come, first-served basis. At least twice weekly, live music spills out the front door—independent musicians play after the market.

They’re eager to see Strasburg thrive. Wendy and Crissy have designs on opening a food co-op across the street.

“I don’t want to be the only place in town,” Crissy says. “I feel like it’ll spread—now there’s an art gallery across the street, and I just feel like things are getting better in downtown Strasburg, because it has so much potential.” li

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Cristina’s Butternut Squash Bundt Cake with Cardamom Whipped Cream

This Bundt is a great snacking cake, won-derful comfort food for cold weather, and a beautiful centerpiece for Thanksgiving. Its flavor improves with time, and it pairs well with fruit preserves or cranberry sauce.

Ingredients½ cup unsalted butter3 cups all purpose flour1½ cups granulated sugar½ cup canola oil2 large local eggs (room temperature)1 tbsp white vinegar2 tsp vanilla extract1 tsp baking soda1 tsp salt½ tsp ground ginger½ tsp cinnamon¼ tsp freshly ground nutmeg1⁄8 tsp ground cardamom¼ tsp allspice¼ minced crystallized ginger¾ cup buttermilk2¼ cups grated butternut squash

Topping:1½ cups of chilled heavy whipping

cream½ cup of powdered sugar1⁄8 tsp cardamom

DirectionsPreheat oven to 325f.

Brush melted butter all over the inside of a Bundt pan. liberally sprinkle with raw sugar until pan is coated. Mix dry ingredients, set aside.

in a large mixer, beat butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, add canola oil, and mix until incorporated. reduce mixer speed to low and gradually add eggs one at a time. add vanilla and vinegar and mix until combined. incorporate half of the flour mixture, followed by half of the buttermilk, followed by the remaining flour mixture. turn off mixer and use a rubber spatula to fold in the butternut squash and crystallized

ginger. transfer batter to Bundt pan and lightly tap the pan on counter to remove air pockets. Bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour (every oven has its own personality), rotating halfway through. cake is finished when edges curl away from pan and an inserted toothpick comes out clean.

flip cake onto a large plate about ten minutes after removing from the oven. allow it to cool completely and then dust cake with powdered sugar.

Toppingon high-speed whip powdered sugar, heavy whipping cream, and cardamom until dense, thick peaks form. this topping can keep in the fridge 2 to 3 days. Spoon a dollop of the cardamom whipped cream alongside a generous slice of cake.

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true gritsthe nitty gritty on the Southern staple.

Jodi MacfarlanPhotos by Molly Mcdonald Peterson

T hough every state throughout the southeastern “grits belt” might wish to lay claim to the staple, grits are undeniably Virginian. They’ve been part and parcel of the Commonwealth’s diet ever since it was a colony, when the first settlers arrived at Jamestown and ate what the Native Americans offered up as

“rockahominie”—softened corn seasoned with salt and animal fat. Then, when U.S. Patent No. 3 was issued to a new automated milling system in 1790 (signed

by President George Washington—a Virginian—and later installed in his own gristmill at Mount Vernon), it gave rise to greater, easier production of stone-ground flour and grits.

Over the following centuries, the traditional milling methods succumbed to the demands of modernity: Stone-ground grits gave way to “quick” or “instant” grits. These lesser cousins were made from ground, de-germinated, and dried corn kernels (called hominy) that have been soaked in a solution of water and lye.

But in recent years, a movement toward the old-fashioned way of eating and producing grits has been swelling. Consumers seeking the rich flavor of “speckled” grits (as the stone-ground variety is also known, because the remaining germ leaves a tiny black fleck in the kernel) have found their match in mills throughout the Old Dominion.

Much texture, taste, and nutrition is lost when corn is milled on a roller mill versus a stone and that realization has led to a huge uptick in sales for the grittier stone-ground variety, says Georgie Young of Wade’s Mill, near Staunton.

“The germ of corn, of wheat, of rye—that’s the flavor center.“It’s not that Gold Medal flour tastes bad,” she adds, “it’s that Gold Medal flour doesn’t

taste. The same holds true for grits.” Along that vein, Young says there’s currently more of a demand for yellow grits than white.

Though the delicate flavors of white corn are lauded, when it comes to grits, subtlety isn’t necessarily a strength. “Yellow corn has a little bit more taste, in addition to more vitamin D,” she says. Because of that, “the Indian tribes that used yellow corn were healthier than those that used white corn.”

But whichever you prefer, the true Virginian way to eat coarse grits, says Young, is with everything. Whether dressed simply with salt and butter, lavished with cheese, or topped with shrimp, any meal involving the stone-ground goodness is as good as it grits.

Shrimp & Grits

1 cup stone-ground grits mixed with 1½ cups cold water

1½ cups heavy cream 2 cups sharp cheddar cheese, grated2 tablespoons olive oil ½ cup good slab bacon, diced1 onion, diced ½ of a green pepper, diced 20 medium or large shrimp, peeled and

de-veined (tails still on)3 garlic cloves, minced1 cup fresh tomatoes, diced¼ cup dry white wineSalt and pepper to taste 2 scallions, choppedhot sauce for serving (recommended:

tabasco green Pepper Sauce)

Slowly add the grits and water mixture to 1 ½ cups of salted boiling water (or chicken broth). reduce heat to low, stirring occasionally for 20 to 30 minutes or until the desired thickness and consistency. remove from heat and stir in 1 cup of cream and the grated cheese.

heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. add bacon and sauté until crisp. transfer bacon to a separate dish and set aside. add the onion and green pepper to the bacon grease and sauté until tender. add the shrimp along with the garlic and sauté until the shrimp turn pink (roughly 30 to 45 seconds). remove from the pan and set aside. add tomatoes, wine, and salt to taste; bring to a boil, stirring to scrape any browned bits from the pan. reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until the sauce thickens (roughly 5 to 7 minutes). return the bacon and shrimp to the pan, stir in the remaining ½ cup of cream and heat through. Season with any additional salt and pepper to taste, sprinkle with scallions and serve over grits.

Get your grits right— stone-ground, from a local mill.

Byrd Mill—Ashland, Va. www.byrdmill.com

Wade’s Mill—raphine, Va. www.wadesmill.com

White’s Mill—Abingdon, Va. www.whitesmill.org

Woodson’s Mill—roseland, Va.www.woodsonsmill.com

Wye Mill—Wye Mills, Md. www.oldwyemill.org

Whether it’s a fresh Ahi tuna salad, our acclaimed house-made pastrami sandwich, a great steak, or another delicious choice from our menu, your meal will always be memorable at Tuskie’s. Our chefs work closely with local farmers and vintners to prepare a creative menu using the freshest ingredients available. Add to that the warm ambience of our beautifully restored 19th Century grain mill, and you’ll understand why we’ve been selected as one of the Top 50 Restaurants by Northern Virginia magazine.

Call today for reservations and experience the great tastes of Tuscarora Mill.

Great Tastes

American Restaurant, Café & Bar

203 Harrison Street, SE Leesburg, VA703.771.9300 Tuskies.com


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the blue goatBringing everything to the table.

John haddad Photos by danny Spry

A s the son of two great cooks—an Irish mother hailing from Limerick and an Italian father from the Abruzzo region of Italy—it was probably destiny that brought Kevin LaCivita into the kitchen.

And with that background it’s no surprise that LaCivita has embraced the slow food and locavore movements.

But it was a chance encounter between LaCivita and restauranteur Renn Mefford, and subsequent conversations about the tradition of nose-to-tail cooking that gave the chef a stage to explore the distinctly Old World approach to cooking.

Together with Mefford’s partner Chris Tsui, the forces behind Rich-mond’s best sushi at Osaka and Wild Ginger, they opened The Blue Goat gastro-pub in the capital city’s near West end a little over a year ago.

Long a part of Asia and other European cooking methodologies, nose-to-tail is a newer concept in the U.S., and one increasingly un-derstood to be truly sustainable: as the name suggests, it wastes no part of the animal. There is, not surprisingly, a free hand with the meat: smoked rabbit, venison, sausages of all kinds.

And, as you may expect, there is goat. One dish finds it braised and mixed with ricotta cheese and swiss chard, stuffed into homemade ravioli, and topped with sage brown butter and Pecorino Romano. It’s highbrow comfort food, combining rich and earthy flavors. An-other summer dish featured pomegranate and fig braised goat over mascarpone polenta.

La Civita’s goats don’t have to travel too far to reach the plate. Raised at Autumn Olive Farms in Augusta County, the Boer Bok breed of goat is known for its rich sweet flavor and smooth texture, a quality enhanced by the high quality, diverse forage on which they graze.

In addition to goat, pork takes a central place on the menu. Sourced from Autumn Olive Farms as well, Patterson’s Berkshires and Ossa-baw Island Hogs are served in a variety of ways. Tender braised pork cheeks come on a bed of rosemary spaetzle and sautéed spinach. House-made pork rinds come to the table still crackling, the perfect companion to one of the many local beers available at the bar. If haute bar food is your thing, pomme frites with pork dust are unique and addictive. Another must try are the batter fried julienne strips of pig ear, served with a sunny side-up duck egg and crispy swiss chard.

When The Blue Goat opened last July, Nadolski’s Butcher Shop in Goochland did most of the processing of the restaurant’s meat. LaCivita brought that function in house, breaking down whole ani-mals and using almost every piece. From nose to ear, brain to trotter, belly to rib, it all gets used.

Making everything from lardo to head cheese and patés to mous-seline, La Civita has mastered the art of nose to tail cooking. He crafts his own charcuterie out of pork, goat, and duck, smokes his own meat, and makes his own sausage.

Sourcing such high quality ingredients from local farms can raise costs, but LaCivita’s self-sufficiency and skill with a knife has helped mitigate that concern.

“By using every part of the animal, I get more product for the cost, and can keep things affordable for my customers,” says LaCivita, who ran the critically acclaimed Pomegranate in Shockoe Slip for eight years.

He estimates that 85 percent of what the restaurant served dur-ing peak growing seasons came from local sources, including Mani-kantowne Specialty Growers, Dave and Dee’s Mushrooms, Ashley Farms and Polyface Farm. Produce mostly comes via Cavalier Pro-duce, which is through Charlottesville’s Local Food Hub. Sourcing this way takes constant work, however.

“The consistency of availability makes managing the menu a chal-lenge sometimes. There are producers coming out of the woodwork, but the consistency sometimes is lacking,” he says.

The Blue Goat menu is hearty and rich, the perfect combination for fall and winter dinners and brunches. La Civita is visibly excited as he talks about new ideas for his menu: “I am going to do some game, like squab and duck, and maybe even some bobwhite [quail].” His excitement translates to the plate, combining innovative ideas and the best local foods available.

The Blue Goatwww.bluegoatva.com


Chef on Fire tarver king likes to set things ablaze. leaves, for instance.

the self-taught chef at the ashby inn in Paris, Va., takes a torch to a dried leaf in his kitchen and tucks it under a bowl of silky chestnut soup. the gentle smoke curls up and around the bowl, tickling the diner’s nose and his memory of autumns past, too. the experience is fall itself.

“with aromas we can not only put on a show, but really show how much the body can take in flavor with more than just our tongue,” says king. “if we amp up the sense of smell the sense of taste follows.”

there may be no one more inventive and generous in the

kitchen than king. egoless and eager to play—a self-described nerd—his tiny kitchen is stacked with charred wood blocks (“we serve a lot of snacks on them,” he explains), broken shards of slate, bent spoons, and a multitude of tweezers. he dreams of opening a restaurant where the food is cooked entirely in an open hearth. So we were delighted when he agreed to reinvent the caramel apple for the premier cover of foodshed, and not surprised that one of his ideas revolved around a fireplace.

within hours of accepting our vague request of help, king had

delivered two fully realized pencil sketches and arranged to borrow a neighbor’s hay field for a dawn photo shoot in knee-high grass because he loves morning light. (the emus who wandered over to sample his handiwork were an unexpected bonus.) By the end of the three-hour session, he was covered in soot, sweat, and caramel, but he was ebullient. tarver king is energized by creating—in a sketchbook, field, or fireplace. all the better if he can use a blow torch.

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name: tarver king

age: 34

hometown: Virginia Beach

resume highlights: the french laundry, the inn at little washington, le Bec fin, the fat duck, and the waterside inn.


apples sourced locally from:halls orchard flint hill, Va.Muskrat haven farms amissville, Va.roy’s orchard & fruit Market Sperryville, Va.Peanuts provided by coastal nuts of waverly, Va.


Crazy Apple Caramel“Stupid good on cinnamon gelato,” says king.

Ingredients1 large honeycrisp apple

(approximately 10 ounces)1 pint granulated sugar1¼ cup heavy cream3 tablespoons waterPinch salt

Directions

Peel, core, and rough cut the apple into 1-inch chunks.

toss the apples with the sugar and put into a heavy bottomed high-sided pot.

add the water and turn the heat to medium.

when the sugar has melted and started to bubble turn the heat to high.

cook the apples until caramelization begins to happen around the edges of the pot.

when the color around the edge turns golden brown (temperature is 320f) take the pot off the heat and Slowly add the cream. (it will bubble and spit. Be careful!)

when the bubbles subside, add the salt and return to the heat on low to combine everything.

while hot, puree the apple caramel in a food processor until smooth.

Pour into desired container and keep warm until ready to use.yieldS aBoUt one Pint.

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Buffalo Meat & Free-Range Pork Steaks ∙ Roasts ∙ Burger ∙ Sausages ∙ Ribs ∙ Jerky and more

Farmer’s Markets at Arlington ∙ Falls Church ∙ Dupont Circle Online Shopping www.cibolafarms.com

Retail Store located at Cibola Farms Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 9-5

Visit the farm for a self-guided walking tour. Come learn how we operate and see the bison herd.

Cibola Farms · 10075 Stone Bridge Road · Culpeper · Virginia www.cibolafarms.com · Tel. 540·727·8590

S u st a i n a b le · H u m a n e · N a t ur a l · E c o lo g i c a l

seasonal kitchen


For the Love of gingerSylVie rowand

Photos by Molly Mcdonald Peterson

Cooking local does not mean ignoring exotic—or seemingly exotic—ingredients. In fact, little of our familiar foodstuff originates in North America. Except for blueberries,Concord and Scuppernong grapes, and

some brambles, native fruit is rarely cultivated or harvested: paw-paws, elderberries, American plums and persimmons, native cher-ries, and Virginia strawberries are only of interest to the forager.

Most other fruit came with the colonists or later from Asia. Ditto with vegetables. Squash, tomatoes, beans, potatoes, sweet potatoes, and corn were bred in the Americas (mostly Central or South)—most everything else, on other continents some thousands of years ago.

One of my favorites is fresh ginger root, a rhizome originally from South Asia that is widely cultivated throughout the tropics…and now in the Mid-Atlantic.

Yes, there is such a thing as local ginger. I have grown it for years in my garden. Ginger requires a long, frost-free growing season—about one year for mature ginger, eight months for baby ginger. That’s more than our climate allows, except for the small miracle of high tunnels (aka hoophouses). With a warm, early start in late winter, appropri-ate temperatures at all times, abundant water, and judicious shade, places such as The Farm at Sunnyside and Potomac Vegetable Farms are successfully growing baby ginger (better than I ever was, too!).

Look for baby ginger at a farmers market near you this fall. Use it liberally and lovingly. Baby ginger has a more delicate flavor than mature ginger and is much juicer, never stringy. When just harvested it has no skin: use it before the outer layer of the rhizome hardens and starts to dry out. Baby ginger is wonderful pickled, juiced, or in-fused…or just cooked. May this menu, in which most recipes feature fresh ginger, inspire you!

Tomato Tatin Slow-cook halved tomatoes for several hours in the oven. “Confit-ing” not only releases unwanted juice but also intensifies the tomato flavors—not a bad thing when using fall tomatoes. I do not provide

defined quantities because they depend on how large your dish is and how closely you pack the tomatoes. Just remember: The taste is intense!

Ingredientsoven-preserved tomatoes (recipe follows)freshly grated parmesan-type cheese—about 2 tablespoons for

an 8-inch tart (optional)Minced fresh rosemary (or fresh thyme) to taste (optional)Puff pastry, homemade or good-quality store-boughtextra virgin olive oil if needed

DirectionsPreheat oven to 400f (or whatever temperature is suggested for the puff pastry you are using).

arrange the preserved tomatoes in a pretty pattern at the bottom of a shallow pie dish, cut-sides up. Pack them quite closely; add olive oil if and as needed. Sprinkle cheese and minced herbs, if using.

roll out puff pastry on floured surface so it is slightly larger than the pie dish. transfer to the pie dish on top of the tomatoes. tuck dough edges well and all around the tomatoes so that when you unmold the tart, the tomatoes are neatly contained.

Bake for about 25 to 30 minutes or until the pastry is pleasantly golden.

let cool slightly until you can handle the pan (if you let it cool too long, the tomatoes may stick). run a sharp knife between the pan and the tart to release the tart’s edges. Place a plate larger than the pie dish on top of the tart, and invert the tart carefully. if tomatoes stick to the pie dish, give the tart a minute or so to unmold itself. then use a knife to remove the stuck tomatoes and position them neatly on the tart.

Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature. the tart is best eaten within a few hours of being made.

APPLES • ARUGULA • ASIAN GREENS (TATSOI, BOK CHOY, MIZUNA) • BEETS & BEET GREENS • BROCCOLI • BROCCOLI RAAB • BRUSSEL SPROUTS • CABBAGE • CARROTS

• CHESTNUT • FRESH CIDER • COLLARDS • EGGPLANT (OCTOBER) • FRESH GARLIC • GREEN & WAX BEANS (OCTOBER) • GROUND CHERRIES (AKA CAPE GOOSEBERRIES)

• HERBS (BASIL, GARLIC CHIVES, MINT, PARCEL, PARSLEY, THYME) • KALE • KOLHRABI • LEEKS • MICRO-GREENS • MUSHROOMS • NUTS • ONIONS • PARSNIPS • PAW

PAWS • PERSIMMONS • PEARS & ASIAN PEARS • PEAS & PEA SHOOTS • SWEET & HOT PEPPERS (OCTOBER) • POTATOES • PUMPKINS • QUINCE • RADISHES & WINTER

RADISHES • FALL RASPBERRIES (OCTOBER) • LATE TOMATOES • SALAD GREENS • SHALLOTS • SPINACH • SUMMER SQUASH (OCTOBER) • SWEET POTATOES • SWISS CHARD foo

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seasonal kitchen


Oven-Preserved Tomatoes

Plum tomatoes bred for sauce or drying are best: they have thick walls, fewer seeds, and less pulp. The preserved tomatoes will keep for a few weeks in the fridge. They are wonderful on sandwiches and can be added to a pizza, tossed with pasta, or used for a very flavorful side dish.yield aBoUt 4 to 5 cUPS

Ingredients4 to 5 pounds plum tomatoes2 tablespoons sugar (optional, use only

for late-fall tomatoes that may not be as flavorful)

1 tablespoon salt2 to 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Directionsthe prior evening: wash, remove stem end, and halve the tomatoes.

generously oil a rimmed cookie sheet (or two, depending on their size). fit tomatoes snuggly in a single layer on the cookie sheet, cut-side up. Sprinkle them with the salt and 1 tablespoon sugar. drizzle with additional olive oil.

Put in oven and bake at 215f for 3 hours. check midway and drizzle with more oil if the tomatoes seem to be drying out. rotate the cookie sheets if using two. turn the oven off and let the tomatoes rest overnight.

in the morning: drizzle with more oil as desired and sprinkle the other tablespoon of sugar.

Bake in 215f oven for 2 to 2½ hours—check every 30 minutes or so, removing any tomatoes that seem done. they should be considerably shrunken, but still soft—not leathery.

let cool. Pack tightly in a glass jar, pouring any collected juice on top of the tomatoes. refrigerate until ready to use.

if you are going to keep the preserve more than 3 days (up to 2 or 3 weeks), gently stir tomatoes in jar with a knife to remove air bubbles. add olive oil to cover all the tomatoes. as you use them,

add more oil to the jar to ensure the remaining tomatoes are always covered.

for longer storage, freeze in freezer-proof containers (with or without extra oil).

Rose-Elise’s Paté Créole(My mother’s Réunion Island meat pie)

A fusion dish, probably of French and Indian origins, Paté Créole is a savory meat pie served on feast days on French Réunion Island, par-ticularly at the beginning of the Christmas or New Year’s Eve meal. It’s traditionally made the morning of (or the day before) the party, giving the flavors time to meld and mellow. It is sliced thinly and eaten at room temperature with a small glass of Anisette or citrus rum punch. A local craft ale, wheat beer (especially one steeped with orange peel and coriander), Virginia rosé, or bubbly also works quite well. Paté Créole freezes beautifully—very conve-nient if you make individual pies. The recipe is from my mother, Rose-Elise, except I use va-nilla powder where she prefers to use Ceylon cinnamon. Weighing the flour is the only way to be accurate. The ratio of fat to flour matters a lot—so do get a scale. yieldS one 10” Pie—SerVeS aBoUt 12 to 14

Filling Ingredients2 tablespoons rendered lard1 small onion, minced1 generous pound fairly lean pork meat,

diced small1 teaspoon turmeric—as fresh and

fragrant as possible1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves (or ½

teaspoon dry)2 cloves garlic, mashed to a paste ½ inch fresh ginger root, peeled and

mashed to a paste or passed through a garlic press

Salt to taste

Dough Ingredients500 grams all-purpose flour (1 pound =

3.5 to 4 cups of flour, depending on how it’s measured)

125 grams sugar, preferably raw or turbinado (¼ pound = ½ cup + 1 tablespoon)

1¼ teaspoon salt1 tablespoon baking powder½ teaspoon vanilla powder or 1

teaspoon cinnamon powder (if the latter, preferably ceylon cinnamon)

125 grams cold lard (¼ pound = 8 tablespoons)

125 grams unsalted butter (¼ pound = 8 tablespoons), not fridge cold but not too soft either, cut fingernail-size

2 eggs, slightly beaten

For the egg-wash: 1 egg2 tablespoons milk

DirectionsPrepare the filling and dough the day before you plan to serve the pate.

for the filling: melt the lard in a thick bottom skillet on low to medium heat. Sweat the onion and meat gently (do not let it brown) about 10 minutes. add all remaining ingredients, stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. cover, lower heat and simmer 30 to 45 minutes until tender. add a tiny bit of water or a little more lard as needed. there should be almost no liquid left at the end but the meat should not be dry. refrigerate until ready to use.

for the dough: in a large bowl, whisk flour, sugar, salt, spices, and baking powder together. drop in the lard, spooned or cut in small bits, and the butter. cut the fats into the flour mixture until the dough resembles rough corn meal with a few pea-size pieces. Make a well in the middle of the flour mixture. add the eggs and incorporate into the dough first using your fingertips then your hands until the dough comes together. knead for 1 minute. Shape into a ball, and refrigerate in a tightly closed container or plastic bag.

assemble and bake the pate the morning of the day you are serving it.

remove the dough from the fridge 1 hour before using to soften.

grease and line the bottom of a 10” removable cheesecake mold with parchment paper.


Preheat oven to 425f.remove about 1⁄6 of the dough. divide

the reminder in 2 equal parts. the dough will be quite brittle and fall apart. knead each part well for a minute or two until it is supple enough to roll without cracking. reserve the smaller dough ball.

roll each of the bigger parts into a ball, flatten with the palm on your hand on a lightly floured surface, flour the top lightly, and roll into a 10-inch circle. transfer one circle to the cake pan. if the dough breaks, patch it together with your fingertips. top it with the filling, leaving ½-inch edge all around. transfer the other circle over the filling, and press the edges together to seal the filling in. roll out the reserved dough and cut out various shapes to decorate the top of the crust.

whisk together the egg and milk, and brush it over the top of the paté with a pastry brush (there will be some left).

Bake 10 minutes on the upper shelf. then lower heat to 300f, move the paté to the lower shelf and bake for 30 minutes until the paté is golden and an attractive sheen has developed.

let cool thoroughly before unmolding. Serve sliced thinly.

Ginger-Infused Pork Shoulder Roast

A large pork roast is a celebratory affair—preferably one from the leg (aka fresh ham) or the shoulder, often called a picnic roast or a Boston butt. A shoulder is a great piece for a gathering: smaller than a ham, it is still generously portioned, reasonably priced, and requires less precise timing than a tenderloin. This should slow-cook for a long time, driv-ing everyone ravenous with its succulent aro-mas. And who cares if you get distracted for another 30 minutes? The meat only becomes more tender and infused with the garlic-gin-ger paste... provided that you are baking it at a gentle temperature and that you left intact the layer of fat surrounding the meat. That thick layer of fat continuously bastes the roast, keeping it moist. Fat from a healthy, drug-free,

pastured pig has its place in a balanced diet. If you are unable to buy pork with a thick layer of fat, drape it in slices of bacon secured with toothpicks before it goes in the oven. If buying directly from a small farmer you may have to do with a half shoulder—adjust the cooking time (and the amounts of spices) down.

On Réunion Island, the roast would tradi-tionally be served with rice, cooked greens, len-tils or red beans, and a spicy relish. Throw some fingerlings potatoes and/or carrots in the pan mid-way through as an alternative to the rice.yieldS 10 to 12 generoUS SerVingS

Ingredients1 7-to-9 pound bone-in pork shoulder with

a thick layer of fat (or skin)2 ounces fresh ginger root peeled and

sliced (if using baby ginger, no need to peel)

1 fresh garlic head (about 2 ounces), cloves separated, peeled, and roughly chopped

1 tablespoon whole peppercorn1 tablespoon coarse sea salt (or kosher

salt)

Directionswith a sharp knife, score pork fat deeply in a diamond pattern.

Mash together all remaining ingredients in a mortar and pestle until you have a fairly smooth paste. if you do not have a mortar and pestle, use a food processor or blender, adding olive oil (or water) as needed (but not too much, you want a fairly thick paste). with a long thin knife make deep though narrow parallel cuts in the roast. in each cut, push in as much of the garlic/ginger paste as you can with your fingers or the handle of a wooden spoon. note: if you really like garlic and ginger, spice the roast up to 12 hours ahead and keep it refrigerated until ready to use. remove from the fridge 1 hour before baking

Preheat oven to 400f.Place the roast fat side up in a cast-

iron dutch-oven, one large enough to hold the roast while the lid can still close tightly. add 1 cup water. Put lid on.

alternatively, place the roast, fat-side up, in a roasting pan; cover tightly with parchment paper and then foil.

Bake 10 minutes, and then lower the heat to 300f. Bake 5 to 6 hours or until a meat thermometer inserted in the deepest part of the roast reads 180f. it’s ok if you go a little too long. in fact, better too long then not enough.

if you are using a dutch-oven, lift the roast to a rimmed baking sheet (otherwise just remove foil & parchment). Broil roast until fat crisps, 5 to 10 minutes. let rest 15 minutes.

while the roast is resting, reduce the accumulated liquid to make jus.

carve making sure each slice has a bit of fat. Spoon off juice on each slice.

any leftovers can be refrigerated. Sliced thinly, they are wonderful in any number of sandwiches.

Spicy Peanut and Lemon Basil Pesto

Inspired by a peanut and chili salsa-like dish from Réunion Island (“Rougail pistaches”), this pesto adds a nice kick to sandwiches, om-elets, and cold meats. It’s great as a side with the Ginger-Infused Pork Roast. If basil is un-available, use a mixture of cilantro and parsley.yield aBoUt 1 cUP

Ingredients1 cup tightly packed lemon basil (or thai-

basil leaves, or cilantro and parsley)½ cup roasted Virginia peanuts

(preferably unsalted)¼ cup fresh green moderately hot chili

peppers (like Serrano or Jalapeno), stem end removed, and roughly chopped

1 clove fresh plump garlic (green germ removed if any)

1 piece of fresh plump ginger root, the size of your thumbnail, peeled and sliced (if using baby ginger, no need to peel)

1 teaspoon sea salt¼ to ½ cup extra virgin olive oil (or

peanut oil)

seasonal kitchen


DirectionsPlace all ingredients except oil in a food processor. Process until smooth, adding olive oil through the feeder tube until it reaches a consistency you like. Scrape bowl down as needed. don’t over process: you want to see bits of pieces all the different ingredients.

as with all dishes made with basil, the part exposed to air will darken as basil oxidizes. keep refrigerated for up to a week, under a thin layer of oil.

Gingery Custard Pear Tart

This tart combines the classic flavors of al-mond and pears in custard. The twist is the double layer of ginger flavor: the pears are poached with fresh ginger and candied ginger is added to the custard. Make sure your pears are perfectly ripe: overripe pears are mealy, un-derripe pears bland and sometime astringent. Pears are often sold underripe: keep them at room temperature to ripen them. They are ready to eat or cook when the area immedi-ately around the stem yields slightly under the pressure from your fingers. Once ripe, refriger-ate and eat within a couple of days. A tart pan with a removable bottom unmolds easily.

yieldS a 9” roUnd or SQUare tart,

SerVing 8 to 10

For the tart shell:200 grams all-purpose flour (7

ounces—12⁄5 to 12⁄3 cup, depending how the flour is measured)

1 tablespoon almond flour2 tablespoons sugar125 grams cold unsalted butter, cut in

small pieces (4.5 ounces = 9 tablespoons)

1 egg yolk1 tablespoon lemon juice1 tablespoon ice-water

(more or less as needed)

For the filling:2 eggs1⁄3 cup sugar, preferably raw¾ cup half and half¼ cup finely ground almond (aka almond

meal or almond flour)—see note1 teaspoon finely chopped candied ginger 8 poached large pear halves (more if

using small pears)—recipe follows2 tablespoons slivered almonds

(optional)1 tablespoon sugar (preferably raw or

turbinado)

DirectionsMake the tart shell the day before. it should be cool before you fill it.

in a large bowl, whisk together flour, almond flour, and sugar. rub butter into the flour mixture using your fingertips until the dough resembles rough corn meal with a few pea- or hazelnut-size pieces. Make a well in the middle of the flour mixture. add the egg and lemon juice, and incorporate into the dough first using your fingertips, then your hands until the dough comes together. Sprinkle with ice water if needed. knead briefly (about 30 seconds). Shape into a ball, and refrigerate in a tightly closed container or plastic bag for 1 hour.

roll out the dough onto a lightly floured surface, sprinkling more flour

on top. transfer to a tart pan. trim the shell and crimp the edges. refrigerate or freeze for 1 hour until firm. (you may refrigerate the shell up to 12 hours, or freeze it tightly wrapped for up to 3 months. no need to thaw before using).

Preheat oven to 400f.line the inside of the shell with foil

or parchment paper and weight them down with pie weight, making sure there are weights against the sides too. Bake for 15 minutes. remove the weight and the foil. lower heat to 350f and bake another 5 to 10 minutes.

let cool thoroughly before adding the filling. the shell may be kept at room temperature for up to 24 hours.

Assemble and bake the tart: Preheat oven to 400f.

whisk eggs and sugar until well blended. whisk in half and half and ground almonds.

Pour about a cup of the custard in the tart shell. Scatter the candied ginger. arrange the pears halves in a pleasing pattern. add the remaining custard until the tart is full. Sprinkle the sliced almonds around the edges and the sugar on the pears.

Bake for 25 to 30 minutes until the custard starts to brown and puffs slightly.

let rest for at least 10 minutes before serving. this tart is good, warm, room-temperature or cold, but is easier to unmold when cooled.

Serve as-is or with freshly whipped cream (maybe flavored with a splash of ginger syrup?).

note: if you are unable to find almond flour, grind whole or slivered almonds in the food processor with 1 or 2 tablespoons of sugar. adjust sugar quantities accordingly in the custard.

The preceding recipes plus more seasonal recipes can be found at food-shed.org/seasonal.

(Continued on page 74)

find baby ginger at the farm at Sunnyside in washington, Va. casselmonte farm in Powhatan also grows the root.

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for up-to-date winery news and events:

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D r i n K

What do you eat with Virginia Cider? top chefs and wine experts share their perfect pairings with foodshed.

P h o t o B y M o l l y M c d o n a l d P e t e r S o n

roanoke

Aaron Deal, Executive ChefThe River and RailVirginia Berkshire Pork Sausage (from Broadview ranch), Purple cape Beans (from anson Mills), and carrot chow chow paired with a dry cider.

lexinGTon

Collin Donnelly, Executive ChefThe Red Hen Restaurantfall salad of foggy ridge-house cured ham, apples, endives, Black walnut/Verjus Vinaigrette

the restrained sweetness of cider pairs really well with the subtle sweet/salty/smoky flavors of the ham, while the endive’s bitter character provides balance. the tart verjus adds sparkle, with the fresh apple enhancing the cider’s aroma. the black walnut adds a rich nuttiness that complements the texture of the cider.

Amanda Bertschi, Pastry ChefThe Red Hen Restaurantgerman-style apple cake with Vanilla Bean/Buttermilk ice cream, Salted caramel, and Spicy Sage roasted Pecans

dessert-type ciders must be sweeter than the food they’re paired with or the cider gets overpowered and washed out. the oak aging and intense fruity sweetness of foggy ridge’s Pippin Black perfectly matches the delicately sweetened apple cake. the ice cream provides a tart background to balance the rich caramel sauce with the vanilla tones that echoes the oak aging. the lightly spiced, sage-flavor of the pecans brings a little heat to play against the intense sweetness of the cider.

alexandria

Matthew Carroll, BRABO i like to use very dry ciders to start off tasting menus. i find ciders like this to be a brilliant substitution for sparkling wine as a first taste to start an expansive menu: think of biting into a green apple and being left with that bright and fresh feeling…that malic tartness helps our guests “reset” from a long day while settling into their dining experience. Plus, we still keep one foot in the classic tradition of starting a special meal with bubbles.

Paris

Neal Wavra, The Ashby Inn roasted chestnut soup, mulled cider gel, bacon cream, smoked salt

the roasted chestnut flavor is amplified by some smoked salt and a cream that is steeped with bacon and then siphoned into the bowl. the addition of a gel made from fresh pressed and mulled cider acts as a bridge to the hard cider. foggy ridge’s Sweet Stayman offers just a hint of sweetness, which rounds out the taste spectrum while its bubbles cleanse the palate between spoonfuls of the rich soup. the complementary aromas and flavors of chestnuts and apples are a pairing designed by and for fall.

WashinGTon, d.C.

R.J. Cooper, Executive ChefRogue 24Virginia cider and sparkling wine are the heady base for a creamy rappahannock river oyster soup flavored with thyme, leeks, and shallots. the recipe, courtesy of chef cooper, is available on food-shed.com.


D r i n K

illUStration By daniel chang chriStenSen

autuMn 2012 food-shed.org 41illUStration By daniel chang chriStenSen


D r i n K

aging Wine in black Locustan appalachia native lends floral notes to delicate whites.

By MattieU finot, wineMaker, king faMily VineyardS

When it comes to wine barrels, most people expect them to be aged in oak. How-ever, other wood species, such

as chestnut, cherry, pine, or even mulberry, are also used to age wine. Of late, acacia is the wood species probably getting the most attention.

Traditionally, though marginally, used in various French wine regions (Hermitage, Sauterne, Juran-çon, Gaillac, etc.), acacia became even less popular as “king” oak was expanding his empire in America and the rest of the New World. Now, after so many years of abusing wine with 100-percent new oak, it seems that winemakers want to return to barrels that are more respectful of the wine. This is why acacia is coming back into fashion.

Like oak, there are different kinds of acacia, and not all of them can be used to make barrels. The species used for barrels is the Robinia pseudoaca-cia, commonly known as the Black Locust, while most staves are made with French or European Locust wood, Robinia pseudoacacia is native to the Appalachian region. The production of acacia barrels is very similar in form and shape to oak barrels; the main difference is in the toasting. Aca-cia does not need to be toasted as much as oak.

Acacia is mainly used to age different types of white wine, as well as gin and grappa. I have tasted some red wines aged in acacia but was not impressed by them. I believe the tannin and aro-matic profiles are more suitable for white. Acacia wood contains tannins that are more subtle and less dominant than oak, but still give some struc-ture to the wine. Acacia has lower concentrations of whisky lactones (coconut), vanillin (vanilla), and furfural (toasted bread and caramel) than

oak. Acacia develops some white flower nose, which increases the aromatic complexity of the wine while respecting the fruit profile. It also brings finesse and freshness to the wine. The wine stays more fruit-forward without becom-ing too big or buttery.

I started using acacia barrels in 2008 for the King Family dessert wine “Loreley” made from Petit Manseng. Acacia barrels are being used with good success in Jurançon, France, where the primary varietal is Petit Manseng. So, to me, it seemed to be the perfect wine with which to start experimenting. The result was great. I got a much brighter wine with more honey, while developing a nice floweriness and some sesame character on the nose. The freshness kept in the wine was balanced perfectly with its sweetness.

Last year while trying to perfect my Viognier, I experimented with one acacia barrel in the blend. My goal is to always get a dry, bright Viognier, very fruit-forward with a nice roundness. Even though new oak works well for my Chardonnay, it is not suitable for the Viognier that I want to produce. Usually, I make around 70 percent of the wine in stainless steel and the rest in used oak barrels. The softer, used-oak helps me develop the apricot/peach character of the Viognier. But I wanted to see if the white flowers of the acacia would bring more complexity to wine. It did—and it also brought more spiciness and some nice exotic fruit. It was a very good fit for this wine.

For wine to be really interesting, it should be complex and balanced. While I still believe that red wines benefit more from being aged in oak, acacia can help add some complexity and subtlety in certain styles of white and dessert wines.

P h o t o B y M o l l y M c d o n a l d P e t e r S o n


Day of the DeaD CoCktails

The Zombie1½ oz reposado tequila½ oz Sailor Jerry rum½ oz apricot brandy½ oz falernum2 dashes xtabentun1 oz honey cinnamon syrup½ oz pineapple juice½ oz papaya juice½ oz lime juice¼ oz coconut milk1 dash angostura bitters

Stir all ingredients with ice in a mixing tin until well-incorporated. Pour into an ice-filled collins glass (crushed ice if possible). garnish with grilled pineapple and house-made grenadine. add a small dog statue for best effect.

Zombies need to get their drink on, too

D r i n K


Oyamel Honors the Day of the DeadaShlie hUgheS Photos by lise Metzger

Located in d.c.’s penn Quarter neighborhood, Oyamel is restau-rateur José Andrés’ love letter to

Mexican cuisine. Thankfully, Andrés has many accomplic-

es. Among them is Joseph Cleveland, who masters the role of head bartender. A self-taught mixologist, Cleveland reveals that much of his training is derived from reading vintage cocktail books and enlightening his palate through travel—a palate he currently describes as “bitter-tart” with an affinity for vermouth, European spirits, and absinthe.

Fall will mark the restaurant’s Fifth Annual Day of the Dead Festival; this year’s will focus on the ancient foods of Mexico. Cleveland’s got a menu of cocktails to honor the holy feast. “A lot of them are based off modern, traditional cocktails with pre-Columbian ingredients,” says Cleveland.

All the time Cleveland spent hitting the history books is apparent in the menu, which pays homage to the ceremonies, day-to-day life, and mysteries that surround the Maya and Aztec civilizations.

One of these mysteries is the strange and sudden depopulation of ancient Maya cities in the 10th century, which led to the com-plete collapse of the Maya civilization. The reason for the collapse is unknown, but Oy-amel playfully points to a theory postulated by researcher and historian Eugene Fredrick as a possible explanation: that the Mayan civilization was destroyed by zombies.

Fredrick notes the lack of buried human remains in ancient Mayan cities and the strong archeological evidence of cannibal-ism, suggesting something much more sinister happened than a simple drought or cross-tribal dispute. This theory provided the inspiration for Oyamel’s own take on the classic Tiki bar favorite, the Zombie.

House cocktail selections vary with the season, but a constant on the menu is the FRESHFARM Market Margarita, made with fresh produce of the week from Black Rock Orchard, a Maryland farm that sells its wares at two D.C. farmers markets.

www.oyamel.com

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the savage Cabernet


looking for love in all the wrong places

JiM lawPhoto by Molly Mcdonald Peterson

ViticultureCabernet Sauvignon has been grown in Virginia for nearly four decades. Until recently, site and soil selection was the viticultural equivalent of rolling dice at a casino. We didn’t understand that in order to make great wine, Cabernet Sauvignon has some very exacting soil requirements. Winegrowers were looking for love in all the wrong places.

“Sauvignon” derives from the French word “sauvage,” which translates as “wild.” This refers to the vine’s exceptionally vigorous growth habit. If Cabernet Sauvignon has access to abundant water and nutrients—which it does in our clay soils and rainy growing seasons—it becomes a luxuriant jungle of leaves and shoots, but the grapes lose out. Cabernet Sauvignon will continue putting out new shoots and leaves well into the fall, divert-ing the vine’s energy from producing flavorful grapes. The resulting wines tend to be lightly colored and thin. Vegetative aromas and flavors are followed by a green, tart finish. These are not the markers of greatness.

With this in mind, progressive growers are planting in thin, rocky soils on steep slopes that are excessively well-drained. The vines stay small and end their growth cycle at the right time. They are balanced with just the right amount of leaves for the crop. If the vines are balanced, chances are that the wines will be balanced. These sites are producing some very classic Cabernet Sauvignon. This paradigm shift is changing attitudes and presenting exciting possibilities.

WinemakingIf we get it right in the vineyard, the winemaker’s job is to get all the good-ies out of the grapes and into the wine. What I am referring to is tannin extraction. At its best, Cabernet Sauvignon arguably has the finest and most seductive tannins of any grape variety. The color, flavors, tannin, and texture of the wines come primarily from the crushed skins and seeds. To make red wine, juice is fermented together with the skins and seeds.

When winemakers know they have really good material, they go for maximum extraction.

Warmer fermentation temperatures, more movement of the wine, and longer time on the skins all contribute to more extraction. It’s not all that different from steeping tea. Very hot water and lots of time dunking the tea bag will produce a stronger beverage. But more is not always better.

this is the first of a series exploring the most important grapes of the Mid-atlantic Piedmont region in Virginia. cabernet Sauvignon has been long overshadowed by its cousin cabernet franc. recently, however, cabernet Sauvignon is raising some eyebrows. it has been an uphill journey, but the future looks very bright for high-quality, local cabernet Sauvignon—as long as its viticultural parameters are respected.

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CommonGoodCityFarm

GROWING FOOD. CULTIVATING COMMUNITY.

Thursday, OCT. 11, 5pm On the farmV Street NW between 2nd and 4th Streets NW

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Come plant the seeds of healthy food, stronger children, and grassroots change at DC’s thriving urban farm.

Individual Tickets$100 - VIP

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Contact Pertula George Redd

for more info [email protected]


D r i n K


bringing beer back Port city Brewing company

JeSSica StrelitzPhotos by lise Metzger

I t’s the brewery that a kid’s soccer league built—that, and a fe-rociously determined former wine executive.

Bill Butcher’s professional roots are steeped in wine, which explains why he de-scribes his 20-month-old Alexandria brew-ery as a winery that makes beer. He spent eight years with Robert Mondavi, and four years as a founding partner with Michael Mondavi’s Folio Wine Company.

But what he saw when he assessed the Capital Region was a place calling out not for more wine but for craft brew. While wor-thy beers have cropped up since, Butcher was alone in the field when he opened his doors on Feb. 4, 2011—two days after a blizzard shut down the entire Northeast.

“About half of the people who I told about our brewery thought it was a cool project, and the other half thought I was crazy,” Butcher said. “I simply didn’t care what any-one else thought. I could see the finished product, knew exactly what I wanted the brewery to be, and I put together a team who could help me build that brewery.”

That team, by happenstance, includes a dozen local families.

“We had not planned on taking outside investors,” Butcher said. “I would be at my kids’ soccer games, chatting with other par-ents, and the subject of the brewery would come up. I found that there was quite a bit of interest in the project, so we decided to let a few families join as partners. We now have 12 families that have invested in the brewery. They are all still involved, and they continue to be great brand ambassadors.”

Head brewer Jonathan Reeves leads the team. He was one of 150 applicants Butcher received the first week he advertised for a brewmaster. Reeves, a five-time medalist at the Great American Beer Festival, came to

Port City with 17 years of brewing experi-ence and quickly got to work.

Within six weeks of opening, Port City had 80 business accounts. Now, the chalk-board in the tasting room lists distribution to more than 600 restaurant and retail locations in four areas—Virginia, Maryland, D.C., and, new in 2012, North Carolina. Butcher is now talking with distributors in Pennsylvania and Delaware as well.

The brewery’s name recalls the city’s roots as a port and former major brewing center. By basing operations in his hometown—he’s a fourth-generation Alexandrian—Butcher immediately became a stalwart of the bur-geoning local craft beer movement.

Port City offers a tidy collection of beers year-round. Bestselling Optimal Wit is an unfiltered Belgian-style white flavored with coriander, orange peel, and peppery grains of paradise. The accessible Monumental IPA demonstrates layers of subtle citrus and cara-mel flavors, but isn’t a victim of the “hop creep” that Butcher sees in other American craft beers. The flagship Porter exhibits traditional coffee and dark chocolate flavors, and the gold-en Essential Pale Ale is a light and fruitful op-tion for a warm afternoon and a frosted mug.

Port City this year has also brewed a vari-ety of seasonal and limited-edition beers in-cluding One, an Imperial Stout to celebrate the brewery’s first anniversary; a copper-col-ored Scottish Ale called Tartan; and Revival Stout, made with oysters from War Shore Oyster Company on the Chesapeake.

The Oyster Stout follows Irish and Brit-ish tradition. The entire oyster—shell, meat, and liquor—is part of the brewing process, creating a beer with a velvety mouth-feel and light minerality. Five percent of profits goes to oyster recovery efforts in the region.

The storm that knocked out power for a week this summer spawned a one-time only

special brew—a by-necessity warm ferment-ed beer called the Derecho Common.

Port City produced 3,000 barrels in its first year, 20 percent more than Butcher’s projec-tions. He plans to double that level in 2012, thanks to two new 90-barrel fermenters that were delivered this spring. And Butcher’s personal star is on the rise, too—he spoke at the Democratic National Convention repre-senting small businesses.

Demand has prompted additional tours, which are now held four days a week—includ-ing four on Saturdays. The tasting room be-came so crowded with visitors and customers seeking growler fills on the weekends, Butcher remodeled the space to add a second bar.

“We have created a multi-sensory experi-ence,” he explains while leading a group of enthusiasts though Port City Brewing Com-pany’s 11,000-square-foot production and tasting space in Alexandria’s industrial dis-trict, a few miles from Old Town.

“We let people handle the raw materials, smell and taste the hops, feel how chilly the cold room is and walk them through every step of the process before tasting the product at the end. It’s a true ground-to-glass tour.”

“We knew that people would try us once, because we are new, and local, but we also knew that if we weren’t great quality, people would try us once and go back to drinking what they were drinking before,” he said. “We knew that we had to be as good or better than the craft beer from everywhere else. “

Though he loves being a beer-aficionado destination, he doesn’t want people to treat Port City like a bar. “This isn’t a place to sit and stay, it’s a place to buy and go,” said Butcher.

There are scores of local eateries with Port City on tap if you want to linger over a glass.

Port City Brewing Co. Portcitybrewing.com

Follow the QR code to Foodshed's new website for all of our recipes – including an exclusive cider recipe from Chef R. J. Cooper – behind-the-scenes photos from our shoots (uninvited emus wreak havoc), food and wine event coverage, and our blog written by a network of correspondents across the Capital Foodshed.

Check into Grange Hall – our free, virtual lodge for farmers, chefs, food entrepreneurs and retailers, and landowners to connect. Want pastured eggs delivered to your restaurant? Selling grass-fed beef? Looking for a farmer to work your land? This is where it happens.

Check out the Foodshed Manifesto. It’s what we’re all about.

Find us on Facebook and Twitter for up to the minute news, event info, and periodic updates from our random lamb generator.

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1. Dress it up DressinG—“old family recipe Makes fortune for local woman” could soon be the headline for the washington-area resident who makes this dressing. the vinai-grettes are shelf-stable for a month. they taste like you just made them. in red wine (my favorite), champagne, and apple cider. 9 oz. jar for $8.99.

Bethesda, Md.; V, MC, AE; Dec. 17 www.dressitupdressing.com

2. patisserie poupon—classic french pastries for those who demand only butter. tiny palmiers are crisp pastry sprinkled with sugar that leaves just the slightest touch of butter on your fingers; 36 for $12. the less famous but even more delicious kouign-amann is a crisp, buttery, sticky Breton pastry of bread dough folded with butter and sugar. 6 for $24.

Baltimore and Washington V, MC, AE, D; Dec. 19 www.patisseriepoupon.net

3. biscotti GoDDess—a slightly softer version of traditional italian biscotti allows you to enjoy them without dunking and still not chip a tooth. i liked vanilla almond, toffee pecan, orange cranberry, and lemon poppy. Packages of 12 any combo $20.

Charles City, Va., V, MC, AE, D; Dec. 17 www.biscotti-goddess.com

4. reD trucK baKerY—Brian noyes always offers something perfect, like the soft, moist Shenandoah Valley apple cake with a light maple glaze; 12 slices $24. or tender cranberry-orange muffins with just the right bal-ance of sweet, tart, moist, and crunchy. 9 for $24.

Warrenton, Va.; V, MC, AE, D; Dec. 12 www.redtruckbakery.com

5. olli salumeria—Seven varieties of richly flavored dry-cured pork salamis—from garlic to fennel seeds—make a grand antipasti plate and they keep for a long time. as good as any import. 6 oz. four per package $57; five-pack $68.50 incl. shipping.

Manakin-Sabot, Va..V, MC, AE; Dec. 17 www.ollisalumeria.com

6. KarenKaY’s caKes—this is the perfect gift, especially if you want to pass it off as your own. it looks homemade and tastes like an old family recipe. old-fashioned, moist orange pumpkin cake with spices, orange zest, and butter with lots of pumpkin flavor is $65 and serves an army of at least 20.

Silver Spring, Md. V, MC, AE, D; Dec. 11 www.karenkaycakes.com

7. b. hall, baKer—handmade whoopie pies, each about 2 ounces, look like little ver-sions of the commercial kind but taste nothing like them. yummy french lemon with lemon curd; coffee caramel with homemade dulce de leche; dark chocolate with cream cheese; chocolate with raspberries. Butter, eggs, and milk are local; $34 a dozen.

Washington, D.C. V, MC; Dec. 12 www.bhallbaker.com

8. lanGDon WooD—whiskey barrel-aged Pennsylvania maple syrup gives a little kick to ice cream, pancakes, waffles -- even great as a dip for apple slices. 8 oz. $12, 12 oz. $18.

Washington, D.C. V, MC, AE, D; Dec. 18 www.langdonwood.com

9. the preserVation societY—the people known for their Virginia chutney have branched with especially successful results. an 11-oz. jar of hot pepper jelly ($6.50) is sensational, even for those who were served hot pepper jelly with everything

all their lives. add cranfiggi chutney to the shopping list (10 oz. $6.95). a holiday 3-pack ($19.95) can include hot pepper jelly.

Washington, Va. AE, V, MC; Dec. 17 www.virginiachutney.com

10. societY fair—try any and all of these at the latest outpost for the celebrated chef of restaurant eve cathal armstrong.

eammon’s mix for irish whiskey 12 oz. $16

cosmo mix; add vodka and triple sec 12 oz. $12

cocktail onions 12 oz. $4.99

green pork sausages with mustard greens and chard $5.99 lb

Montbeliard pork sausages, cold smoked with cumin $5.99

Pate de compagne: with gin soaked currants pork, brandied apricots and pistachio, or rum raisin. $14.99 lb

Pate en croute with pork, figs soaked in armag-nac, pistachios, $18 lb

Alexandria, Va. V, MC, AE,D; Dec. 17 www.societyfair.net

11. caroline’s caKes—flavors change seasonally. i loved the 7-layer lemon cake that is sweet, tangy, and very handsome. Serves up to 20 $58

Annapolis, Md.; V, MC, AE, D; Dec. 18 www.carolinescakes.com

12. baYou baKerY—Porkorn gives new life to the bacon craze. this porkorn is covered in caramel, bacon, and Virginia peanuts and gets a tiny kick from cayenne. 5 oz. $8

Arlington, Va. V, MC, AE, D; Dec. 17 www.bayoubakeryva.com

hOLIdAy gift guide

Marian BUrroS

This gift guide highlights the best of the Capital Foodshed’s producers, who continue to deepen the bench of the locavore movement. Stock up for last-minute gifts or send them to someone with a special appreciation for locally made, artisanal goods.

(Shipping not included unless specified. order by date specified to ensure christmas delivery.)


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Put your holiday gift budget to the best use by buying products from local farmers, independent businesses, and artisans. You’ll not only get thanked by your giftee, but you’ll be supporting the local economy and food system, too. Here, the Foodshed staff shares its collective holiday wish list.

hOLIdAy staff picks

1. wear your local love—organic and U.S.-made t-shirts that show your sup-port for farmers.

Green label organic www.greenlabel.com

brand of the free www.brandofthefree.net

2. you won’t wear out your welcome if you bring this with you:

feast! boX to Go

green goddess dressing, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, Virginia cheese straws, and gearhart’s choco-lates made especially for feast!

www.feastvirginia.com

3. the cacao for this chocolate hand-made in gaithersburg, Md., comes from the organic farm owned by the chocolatiers.

spaGnVola chocolates spagnvola.com

4. never show up empty handed. this Virginia sparkling gives the french stuff a run for its money.

thibaut-Janisson sparkling Wine www.tjwinery.com

6. the gift that gives all year: sign them up for a local cSa. weekly deliveries from the farm means they will think of you at every meal. now is the time—many fill before spring. to learn more about cSas, go to food-shed.org.

5. warm up a winter morning with the perfect gift for breakfast lovers:

Wildwood’s hickory syrup wildwoodshickorysyrup.com

Wade’s mill pancake mix www.wadesmill.com

radical roots pumpkin butter www.radicalrootsfarm.com

tokie snows (gluten-free) pancake mix www.tokiesmixes.com

taste Virginia strawberry Jam www.virginiafoodworks.org

7. feed their brain, too, with a library fit for locavores.

start something that matters by Blake Mycoskie

omnivore’s Dilemma by Michael Pollan

folks, this ain’t normal by Joel Salatin

8. give the gift of bold flavors— the perfect addition to the pantry.

shenandoah spice company island Jerk seasoning www.shenandoahspicecompany.com

Gordy’s pickle Jar: sweet pepper relish www.gordyspicklejar.co

Gaucho Green chimmi-churri sauce www.gauchogreen.com

KimKim Korean hot sauce www.ashmanco.com

palcha products soycha www.palcha.com

bone Doctors’ original barbecue sauce bonedoctorsbbq.com

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PALLAD IOR E S T A U R A N T

540.832.7848

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To Foodshed Magazine,

From your supporters in Rappahannock County

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t r aV e l

Washington Countyleaf peep with gorgeous local food and art.

Paige caMPBell

You wan t to spend a weekend soaking up fall colors, you head northeast, right? Maybe. But a shorter

drive southwest across Virginia takes you to Washington County, the picture of fall per-fection: storied little towns, country roads, wooded hillsides, local color. It also takes you toward a whole lot of fresh, delicious food.

Nestled between coal country to the west and Virginia’s tallest mountains to the east, Washington County’s broad valleys have always invited agriculture. Combine that farming heritage with crunchy, outdoorsy types and the creative energy that has shaped the county seat into a cultural hub, and you have the ideal setting for an explo-sion of locally sourced dining options.

Coming from the north, you’ll reach Glade Spring first, so grab lunch at the friendly Whis-tlePig Bistro in the old town square. Burger joint standards feature local produce and quirky, country touches like barbecue sauce made with apple butter. It’s a great spot for vegetarians, too: daily specials include soups and frittatas, and a house-made veggie burger is always available. The sweet potato fries are loaded with dill and impossible to push away.

Further south, historic Abingdon is a charm-ing place to stroll the brick sidewalks. Bookend your day with beverages from Zazzy’z Coffee Roasters and Wolf Hills Brewing Co. Sweet tooth? Try Babycakes Cupcakery and Unique Eats. It also has burgers from the chef ’s own cattle and veggies from the Abingdon Farmers Market just around the corner.

The market’s dedicated vendors are help-ing fuel Appalachia’s blossoming local foods movement (look for the “Rooted in Appala-chia” seal at restaurants, inns, and shops to know the goods have been grown nearby). The Abingdon Farmers Market is also a buzzing community gathering spot, with

live music, hot coffee, and amateur cook-ing competitions. This year’s Country Roads Cook-off takes place October 6 at a town baseball field, with a bluegrass and old-time mountain soundtrack from that weekend’s Crooked Road Music Festival.

Work up a sweat biking the Virginia Creeper Trail, which winds from Whitetop Mountain back to Abingdon along a 34-mile converted railroad line through the best fall foliage around. Or bring hiking boots and hop on the Appalachian Trail in Damascus. Just don’t go too far—you really want to be back for dinner.

The Harvest Table in Meadowview offers the most hyper-local menu you’ll find just about anywhere. Owner Steven Hopp opened the restaurant in a re-habbed townsquare storefront after he and his wife, Barbara Kingsolver, chronicled a year of local eating in “Animal, Vegetable, Miracle.” Local farms supply nearly everything, and while that sometimes means limited quantities, clever new standards cel-ebrate what’s plentiful. The restaurant also operates its own farm to keep sal-ad greens and standard produce in full stock. Try the brick-oven pizzas, too.

Other dinner options include Abing-don’s House on Main, an elegant hun-dred-year-old home serving fine wines, just-picked veggies, and a charcuterie plate you’ll wish came with refills. At Bristol’s Troutdale Bistro, local steaks come with fresh sides—think ricotta-stuffed squash blossoms and confit baby potatoes.

Hayrides at Glenmary Gardens rumble around a pumpkin patch, of course, but also—believe it or not—a strawberry field. Ever-bearing strawberry varieties mean you can pick your own all the way through Thanksgiving, usually.

Back in Abingdon, the Heartwood tour-ism center serves as an artisans’ gallery and a jumping off point for visiting the region. It also has great food at special events (a Sunday gospel brunch, a Thursday bluegrass picnic) that highlight Appalachian musical styles.

Arts lovers should check out the William King Museum and go to the Barter Theatre, where a professional company produces everything from big-time musicals to one-man shows. The Barter takes its name from its Depression-era founder’s policy to let im-poverished local farmers pay their admission with unsold produce. Original ticket price? “35 cents or the equivalent in victuals.”

Whistle Pig www.whistlepigbistro.com

Harvest Table restaurantwww.facebook.com/ harvesttablerestaurant

Baby Cakes Cupcakery and unique eats babycakescupcakery.vpweb.com

Wolf Hills Brewing Co. www.wolfhillsbrewing.com

Barter Theatrewww.bartertheatre.com


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one Farm, a Whole dietroB MoUtoUx

Photos by Molly Mcdonald Peterson

through three generations and ap-proximately sixty years, our family focused on fruit trees—primarily peaches—year after year, pulling a crop from our Moutoux Orchard to sell at a roadside fruit stand. Then, about four years ago, we started doing something very common for small family farms—we diversified. It started with laying hens, lambs, vegetables, and small grains. By 2011, we were ready to ask a big ques-tion of the local food movement: could a farm feed a small community of people a diverse diet

meant to meet most of their food needs for 12 full months of the year? We wondered, would the community support a whole-diet, year-round CSA?

Our farm is now in its second season of providing milk and other dairy products, beef, lamb, pork, chicken, eggs, vegetables year-round, whole grain flours, and seasonal fruits and herbs to our membership of approximately 30 households. Each household pays a monthly service fee and comes to the farm weekly to pick up from the bounty that we offer. The food changes with the amazing diversity of what each season brings.

We have attracted the die-hards of the local food movement—the families who want to cook whole, farm foods in their kitchens routinely; the folks who want to pickle, can, and make sauces and preserves; the customers who want pasture-raised meats and all the nutritional, en-vironmental, and social benefits that come with them; the people who

want a direct and intimate connection to the land and the farmers grow-ing their food. We have a wonderful membership and it is quite evident that there is mutual gratitude flowing between the farmers and the eaters.

The ecosystem of our farm benefits greatly from the ability to ro-tate livestock, pastures, vegetables, and cereal crops. We have found that there is strength in diversity. We cherish the ability to work with-in a system that includes dozens of grasses and forbs, perennial fruit trees and berries, annual cereals and cover crops, around 40 vegetable crops, and, of course, a variety of livestock that is worked into and routinely rotated throughout the system. Using these tools wisely and managing our soils intensively sets us on a good path towards our ultimate goal of balanced, mineralized, and biologically healthy soil that produces better, more nutritious foods.

The ecosystem of our farm doesn’t just stop at animals, crops, and pastures. The farmers and the consumers of our food are also vital. Marketing in our unique way gives members the opportunity to feel a sense of investment in the place. Their continued support—both financial and emotional—enables us to manage the land successfully and meet the land’s needs. The production of the land is thus re-turned to the members, and the system perpetuates. We have no better insurance than a diversity of production and a group of people who are truly invested in what we are creating.

To answer the question I first posed, I would say surely the answer is yes—a diverse whole-diet farm feeding its small community year-round is a very real prospect. But, in seeking answers to this question, I stumbled into further questions of the greater local food movement. How are we collectively best poised to feed ourselves? What role do the more typical food production and distribution systems play?

Our model of producing nearly everything a family might need to eat is wonderful—it is powerful, romantic, and inspiring. It is em-powering to know that a community can be in charge of its own food supply. And it is replicable even without access to immense amounts of capital. However, it is not without problems—managing a system with so many moving parts proves challenging and complex. A small, diversified farm is geared to feed a small community, not the whole world. A farm like ours should play some part in the picture of a local food future, along with other small farmers diverse or specialized, marketers, retailers, butchers, processors, restaurateurs, and educa-tors working collaboratively for a brighter future. It is also important to remember that the big grocery stores aren’t going out of business anytime soon—and that is probably a good thing.

My dairy cows now graze alongside the peach trees planted by my parents. Our farm story is one of adaptation, which is our best tool in a world of transitions. We learn, we adjust, and we continue growing and feeding people. Making a living off the farm is pretty sweet.


Or any other enjoyer of farm-based food and drink?

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amber WavesMaking a go of Virginia-grown grains.

whitney PiPkinPhotos by Molly Mcdonald Peterson

F ive years in to his gr and experimen t , Brian Walden finds himself knee-deep in a niche of lo-cal agriculture that barely exists around here: growing, processing, baking, malting, and doing whatever it takes

to sell locally grown grains to local mouths.After a long history of cultivation in East Coast states like Virginia,

grains have transitioned into an almost entirely Midwest-grown com-modity, virtually untouched by the movement to grow food closer to home.

Walden doesn’t think he’ll change that by harvesting a few acres of wheat and barley—but he does think he’ll meet the demand that’s just beginning to bubble up at local breweries and among at-home bakers.

“If I don’t do it, somebody else is going to,” Walden said. “There’s no reason I shouldn’t try, because I’ve got the ability to do it right now and I’ve gotten this far.”

Pockets of people like Walden have cropped up across the country in places such as Massachusetts and North Carolina, sparking confer-ences and nonprofits to connect millers, brewers, bakers, and growers.

Locally grown grains can be found on at least one other Virginia farm—but only if you signed up for a share of Moutoux Orchard’s sold-out CSA this year. Rob Moutoux used to sell raw grains and flours at a pair of D.C. farmers markets, but he now funnels it all into a yearlong “full-diet” CSA, offering grains alongside meat, dairy, eggs, and produce.

“It’s a hard product to sell,” he said.

The learning curveWalden started planting grains at his 500-acre farm southwest of Char-lottesville as a rotational crop that jived well with raising grass-fed cattle.

Walden grew up on the land, but parts of it had barely been farmed by contract growers during his childhood (his parents worked off farm). Walden, now 31, and his wife, Mihr, returned seven years ago to do just that.

After figuring out “what was flat and what wasn’t,” and how to use secondhand farm equipment, Walden considered the best use for the undulating pasturelands where he is finishing work on the family’s new home.


Grains, he said, were the obvious option.“The grains are extremely productive, they grow during the winter

months when nothing else does, they’re harvested early,” he goes on, because he cannot help his excitement, “plus, they’re super nutritious, delicious, and should be more of our food system.”

Walden would like to see more Virginia farmers working wheat and barley and even black beans into their crop rotations. But he understands why they aren’t.

It’s taken the better part of five years for him to amass the long list of machinery needed to harvest and process grains into salable products—like the organic, whole wheat flour that’s now being baked into pizza crusts at Dr. Ho’s Humble Pie just up the road.

To make it this far, Walden first had to become a collector of farm antiques, starting out with a $250 combine (which both threshes the wheat stalk and harvests the grain) and a 1930s-model grain mill. He recently invested in a 60-year-old Clipper seed cleaner, complete with fading vintage font, which will allow him to process more seed than he can grow on his own.

The machinery collection he amassed—and the “gear-head” men-tality required to maintain it—is far more than the average vegetable farmer would need to buy to supply a small CSA with grain, too, Walden said.

Carl Griffey, a wheat breeder at Virginia Tech University, said the learning curve for small-scale grains extends beyond infrastructure.

Finding the right seed, storing the product, and growing it organically are all more difficult with these crops, he said.

Walden was able to get “surprisingly good yields” this year with a hard red winter wheat developed to withstand the humidity of the Mid-Atlantic region.

His midsummer harvest produced enough wheat, in fact, to get him dreaming about the possibilities.

What’s nextWalden tried selling his first batches of black beans, wheat berries, and whole wheat flour through a grain CSA and at farmers markets, but people didn’t seem to recognize the unfamiliar raw products, let alone know what to do with them.

Walden is now on a mission to make the raw ingredients that are piled up in his barn “more edible”—that is, to process them into “value-added” products like tortillas, black bean dip, and beer—and to do as much of it in-house as possible. He’s taking a course in the fall to perfect his barley malting skills so he can sell the product to local breweries (that’s right, totally local beer). Plans to build ovens and dreams about using a large, water-powered mill to make flour are also in the works.

Inspired by other growers making a go of grains across the country, Walden is determined to see how far he can take it.

“I’m following it,” he said. “I think it’s going somewhere and, unless I give up or hurt myself, it’s not going to stop.”


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tJ, We Fixed itJoel SalatinPhoto by karly Pope

Thomas Jefferson’s farm book—a compilation of re-cords, trials, and hopes—offers a wonderful look into planta-

tion issues. Jefferson loved his land and even while U.S. president, the inner workings of his farm occupied much of his attention.

Truly a man for the ages, iconic in Ameri-can history, great beyond what most would consider greatness, Jefferson nonetheless struggled as a farmer. Though he dreamed of an America comprised of intellectual agrar-ians, his agricultural pursuits were seldom profitable or sustainable. For all his achieve-ments and forward-thinking, he suffered from a paradigm and lack of understanding that plagued the planter class of that era.

If I were able to sit down with Jefferson to-day, I’d explain where his thinking was wrong and then proceed to enlighten him with the

knowledge and infrastructure we enjoy today. I think he would leave our chat brimming with excitement over the future and chuckling good-heartedly about some of the things he had missed. Too many people think I’m a Luddite and our farm is some sort of throwback to the era of washboards, fireplace cooking and hoop skirts. Nothing could be further from the truth.

The plantation class suffered from four misconceptions. Interestingly, these four paradigms are consistent with our modern mechanically based industrial food system.

First, they believed exports were the key to prosperity. Because transportation in that day was arduous, much commerce was vil-lage-centric and even farm-centric. But the thing that occupied the mind of Jefferson primarily was how to ship wheat to Europe.

Second, they thought soil fertility was not something you could create on-farm. As

planters wore out fields, they moved west. Constantly looking for fertility and not un-derstanding the carbon cycle, they could not compensate for fertility loss with the pittance of muck hauled out of barn stalls. Indeed, from 1840 to 1865, a millennia of accumu-lated pelican, booby, and cormorant guano off the coast of Peru was mined and shipped to America and Europe on steamers, using thousands of Asians as slave labor.

Third, they considered grain the holy grail of agriculture. Because grain was expensive due to primitive tillage techniques and la-borious harvest/transportation/storage, the planters’ desire was to raise more and more annuals rather than perennials. That means more tilling, and that destroys soil faster than anything. This grain pursuit, therefore, complicated the fertility problem.

“rather than putting the bottom of our socio-economic people in charge

of our farms and food, how about we, as a culture, liberate these folks and pay them what they’re worth?”


The garden at Monticello.


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is Local Food affordable?Paige caMPBell

W ander through any farmers market with fresh, local, and often organic produce, and two things are likely to hit you: Wow, this stuff is gorgeous, and wow, it costs more than at the chain grocery store.

Local food advocates will argue that you get what you pay for—the farmers market produce is raised on healthy soil; the animals are treat-ed well and fed their natural diet; the workers are paid living wages.

But a recent study out of Abingdon, Va., backed up by others around the nation, suggests that for the most part, our perception is wrong: Farmers markets offer competitive and often cheaper prices than what you pay at the grocery store for produce.

Anthony Flaccavento, an organic farmer and the founder of SCALE, Inc. (Sequestering Carbon, Accelerating Local Economies), which consults on sustainability issues, wanted to find out if families with small budgets could make a big shift to local food—or if it would remain the luxury of the well-off. He launched a study aimed at an-swering the question: “Is Local Food Affordable for Ordinary Folks?”

“The common misconception is that farmers markets are expensive,” says Flaccavento (who is also running for Congress in Virginia’s 9th district). SCALE’s November 2011 report found that not to be the case.

Flaccavento compared prices for a list of what he called “everyday foods” at 24 farmers markets and corresponding supermarkets across six states in Appalachia and the Southeast. When the bills were tal-lied, the total costs were similar in most communities.

And, SCALE found, conventional produce—when in season—was actually cheaper at farmers markets in three-quarters of the com-munities studied. For organic produce, the numbers were even more favorable to locavores, with 88 percent of communities seeing lower prices from local farmers. (A similar study in Vermont showed the same results for organic produce. Everything but organic potatoes was cheaper at farmers markets.)

Meat and eggs, on the other hand, were more expensive at ev-ery farmers market than at a large retailer. The margin was trivial when compared to grass-finished or free-range products in the

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supermarket, but much larger when compared to conventionally raised products. In the case of chicken, the gap was huge: Local birds were three times more expensive than factory-produced birds. (Local poultry farmers attribute the difference mostly to dramatically higher feed costs.) Items like ground beef and sausage were much closer to supermarket prices.

For more expensive items like chicken, maximizing a local-food bud-get requires a little additional work and food-prep skills.

Forget the boneless, skinless chicken breasts, for starters. “If you know how to cook a whole chicken, use your leftovers in a stir-fry, and make stock, that brings the per-meal cost down,” he says.

For people on a truly limited budget, nearly 2,500 farmers markets of the 7,800 nationwide now accept the Supplemental Nutritional Assistance Program card, what we used to call food stamps. The Abingdon farmers market where Flaccavento sells produce was the first market in Virginia to set up the SNAP system, in 2009.

When swipe cards first replaced paper food stamps in the mid-1990s, “farmers were sort of cut out of the equation unless they had the re-sources to set up their own machine,” says Abingdon market manager Sara Cardinale. Now, shoppers can swipe their cards to buy market-issued wooden tokens to use like cash. Later, each participating vendor redeems those tokens for a single check.

“For farmers, it means a better bottom line,” says Cardinale, “and ac-cess to many more customers.”

Like at many other farmers markets, Abingdon’s SNAP shoppers get their food benefits doubled through a dollar-for-dollar matching grant from the Wholesome Wave Foundation. With that grant, the market has made $25,000 in SNAP sales in three years. Last year, Wholesome Wave’s doubling grants reached 40,000 shoppers nationwide.

For Paula Sarut of Chuckey, Tenn., shopping at the SNAP-friendly farmers market in nearby Jonesborough means no longer struggling to provide a balanced diet. “Getting on SNAP and finding a farmers mar-ket where I could use it meant I was no longer saying ‘Is it rice today or beans today?’” she says.

Sarut still scrutinizes her own spending choices. “Sometimes it’s most important for food to be local, sometimes for it

to be organic, sometimes for it to be cost-effective,” she says. But trying to make those choices before finding her farmers market occasionally meant walking away from other establishments empty-handed.

“It didn’t feel good to be told, ‘No, we don’t accept those benefits,’” says Sarut. “It means a lot just to be able to participate.”

That’s significant to Cardinale, too. “I’ve had customers just very, very happy—exuberant, in fact—that they are welcomed here,” she says. “Peo-ple want and deserve quality food, regardless of income.” a

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squaring off fauquier winemakers weigh in on farm winery ordinance.

Photos by karly Pope

In July, the Fauquier County Board of Supervisors passed new restrictions on farm wineries, limiting business that takes place after 6 p.m. and requiring permits for events. It allows just one after-hours event per month, with up to a total of 48 per year possible depending on the size of the farm winery and the acquisition of special permits from the county. It caps the number of people who can attend the events and limits the amount and

types of food that can be served onsite, among other things. Opponents of the ordinance also say the property set-back rules seriously inhibit farm wineries smaller than 20 acres.

The Board adopted these rules, it said, “to protect the health, safety and welfare of the public,” noting the alcohol con-sumed and the rural roads on which most wineries are located. It also noted that property owners near farm wineries have “reasonable expectations” to enjoy their property without undue noise, light, and traffic.

The ordinance has already been challenged by lawsuits from at least 12 Fauquier wineries as unlawful infringement on the burgeoning local wine business, and could well be addressed by the General Assembly, which restricted local governments’ authority over winery operations in 2006.

The debate has driven deep wedges in the community. Here two respected winemakers, Jim Law of Linden Vineyards and Philip Carter Strother of Philip Carter Winery, explain their respective sides.

By PhiliP carter Strother, PhiliP carter winery

the proposition that a winery must dedicate itself either to producing quality wine or to having events is a false choice. The two are not mutually exclusive. Fau-quier’s wineries are producing some of the highest quality wines in the world, and most, but not all, must host events to attract customers in the first decades of operation. The wine business requires patience.

There are 26 wineries located in Fauquier County, with approximately 750 acres dedi-

cated to agricultural practices. An acre of land costs on average $15,000, with an additional $15,000 to $20,000 per acre for vineyard development. It takes three to five years to produce quality fruit that can be used in wine production, and five to 10 years to produce premium wines. On

average, it takes seven to 10 years for a winery to become cash positive, and up to 15 years or longer to recover the initial investment.

The vast majority of Virginia’s new winery owners must rely on events to attract customers to their wineries to taste their wines until they can build a loyal customer base. That can take 10 to 20 years.

In the past decade, not one of the 26 Fauquier wineries received an adjudicated violation or citation that they caused an adverse impact to the health, safety, or welfare of the surrounding community. Despite this, Fauquier County adopted an ordinance that threatens the economic vi-tality of many of the wineries and cripples others. Fauquier is inappro-priately using county zoning to stage-manage local neighbor disputes that don’t exist. It is also attempting to regulate the sale of alcohol, which is within the regulatory control of the Virginia Alcohol Control Board.

The Fauquier County Farm Winery Ordinance, adopted this summer, represents a shortsighted, insidious form of regulatory expansion that


infuses sweeping governmental control over every aspect of these farm-ing operations—including the locations of wineries away from prime viticultural areas. It eliminates the by-right ability to operate a farm winery on agricultural lands, dictating the placement of farm buildings; access to private property, parking lots, and driveways; hours of opera-tion; staff training; outdoor music; and number of guests, among other things. The ordinance regulates much more than large-scale events.

Sadly, we’ve been here before. In 2005, many farm wineries in Fauquier County were subjected to stifling levels of regulation. The Virginia General Assembly responded in 2006 with a comprehensive restriction on a local government’s regulatory authority over farm wineries. The law expressly prohibits a locality from regulating farm winery operations, with the exception of unreasonably amplified outdoor music and large-scale festival events that substantially im-pact the surrounding community. The law was adopted specifically

because of Fauquier County’s interference, and to protect the thriv-ing young farm winery industry.

Since 2006, the Virginia wine industry has grown from approxi-mately 125 licensed farm wineries to more than 230 today. Virginia’s burgeoning wine industry contributes $747 million annually to Vir-ginia’s economy, an increase of 106 percent over the figures from 2005. The taxes paid to the state and local governments grew from $21 million to $43 million, a 105 percent increase. The number of wine-related tourists visiting Virginia increased from 1 million in 2005 to 1.62 million in 2010, a 62 percent increase.

Unfortunately, none of the current members of the Fauquier Board of Supervisors were serving in 2005, and now history unlearned is about to repeat itself. The adoption of the Farm Winery Ordinance will lead to costly litigation and business uncertainty and will discourage investment in the county to the detriment of the citizens of Fauquier.

By JiM law, linden VineyardS

i have been a citizen and winegrower in Fauquier County for over 30 years. During that time, I have witnessed neighboring counties caving in to the pressures of devel-opers and special interest groups. Fauquier County has remained a stunningly beautiful place where nature and man have worked in harmony over the centuries. We Fauquier wineries have used this to our advantage. We boast of the views and bucolic countryside to attract visitors. Good zoning has preserved

our commonwealth. Zoning means making individual concessions for the greater good. It’s now our turn to take some responsibility.

Most new winery owners aren’t from here. Newcomers aren’t neces-sarily familiar with the history, culture, and values of their newly adopted community. Fauquier County has set some guidelines that new wineries can use to make good and balanced business-planning decisions.

We have witnessed past abuses of the special status that Virginia gives its farm wineries. Neighbors close to farm wineries have ex-pressed concerns. It is only natural that good government responds to its citizens. I have been impressed with the due diligence of the zon-ing office and the careful considerations of the Board of Supervisors.

They have produced a balanced ordinance that provides reviews and controls, should a farm winery push the envelope on what is reason-able. With some paperwork, the new ordinance provides for more than 50 events per year. Surely this is enough for any farm winery.

This ordinance is about appropriate zoning, land preservation, and respect for community. If wineries want to open late-night wine bars and entertainment venues, they should locate to towns, where public safety, access, and parking are already in place.

The Virginia Farm Winery Law allows vineyards the right to pro-duce and sell their wines in agriculturally zoned land. To qualify, the farm winery has to grow the majority of the grapes used in their wine production. If wineries don’t want the burden of growing their own grapes, then they should consider commercially zoned areas where there are established infrastructure and services. There would be less pressure on our delicate, rural ecosystem. This has been a successful model on the West Coast and in Europe, where négociants purchase grapes and bulk wine for their own blends and bottlings.

The Virginia wine industry has grown and matured. The origi-nal intent of the Virginia Farm Winery Law has eroded to the point where localities need to get involved. Giving farm wineries “carte blanche” to do whatever we please is no longer an option. The conversation continues at food-shed.org.

A beautiful farm setting for yourwedding, fundraiser, corporate

picnic or educational event.

Brandywine, Maryland(301) 579-2727

pabowenfarmstead.com

P.A. Bowen Farmstead


G u e s t l i s t

Farm to Family/BusFarm Good Food NightJuly 14, 2012, richmond, Va.Photos by Molly M. Peterson

Farm to Family launched its nonprofit, sustainable urban farming education center, BusFarm, with a fundraising cocktail reception, silent auction, all-local dinner prepared by Chef Willie Miller, and book signing with guest speaker Will Allen, of Growing Power and “The Good Food Revolution.”

Jerry Bias floyd Smith, Brina Brown, edem lawson, yannick Sikam

Sugarleaf Vineyards’ 6th Anniversary SoireeAugust 18, 2012, north Garden, Va.Photos by Molly M. Peterson

Sugarleaf Vineyards celebrated its sixth anniversary with the new, limited-case-production Stargazer Rosé (only available in the Tasting Room), and live music from John Dearth & Company.

daniel thompson and emily lenschow

liz and emily reitzig

Brandon, faith and levi Ballance

Suzi lilly, will allen, Mark lilly

Eat Local First WeekJuly 14-21, 2012, Washington, d.C.Photos by Liz Elkind

Eat Local First, a Think Local First DC initiative, celebrated the farms, restaurants, organizations, and individuals of the D.C. area’s local food movement with its second annual week of events featuring local food, drinks, and music.

lola Bloom, rebecca lemos, carmen wong

A Rendezvous with RdV Vineyards and Volt August 26, 2012, delaplane, Va.Photos by Karly Pope

Guests enjoyed a paired dinner of dishes—seated in the stunning winery—prepared by chef Bryan Voltaggio with wines grown in granitic conditions, hosted at RdV Vineyards.

theresa watts, Stacey Price

Stephen Mekoski lauren Biel, Sarah Bernardi, allison Sosna, lisa Jordan, kathryn warnes

Jim epstein, Matt Mulder, ann yonkers, tommy langford, Pam hess, david winer, Michel heitsman, erin Johnson, Melissa harris, June Blanks, Joel Salatin June Blanks, reid Soloman

Melissa harris, Bryan Voltaggio rutger de Vink, Jenny Marie

Jill zimorski, Jackie ross, Jenny Marie

Jessi Bishopp, rochelle Bellin, Maureen Moodie, rob Moutoux

F

OR E Q U A LIT

Y

Ch fs JOIN US OCTOBER 24, 2012 FOR AN EVENING OF FOOD, COCKTAILS, FASHION AND MUSIC, PLUS AN EXTRAORDINARY LIVE AUCTION TO SUPPORT MARRIAGE EQUALITY IN MARYLAND.

PARTICIPATING CHEFS INCLUDE:Victor Albisu, Taco BambaJosé Andrés, ThinkFoodGroupSebastien Archambault and Peter Brett, Blue Duck TavernCathal Armstrong, Restaurant EveJon Arroyo, Founding FarmersKyle Bailey, Birch and BarleyIan Bens, JuniperJustin Bittner, Bar PilarJeff Black, Pearl Dive Oyster PalaceDanny Bortnick, FireflyDevin Bozkaya, Westend BistroAmy Brandwein, Chef AmyBErik Bruner-Yang, Toki UndergroundJeff Buben, Woodward TableRJ Cooper, Rogue 24Logan Cox and Alison Reed, RippleJohn Critchley, UrbanaScott Drewno, The SourceEnzo Fargione, ElisirTeddy Folkman, Granville Moore’sSpike Gjerde, Woodberry KitchenDean Gold, DinoTodd and Ellen Gray, EquinoxDavid Guas, Bayou BakeryScot Harlan, Green Pig BistroMichael Harr, Food, Wine & Co.Jerry Hollinger and Zena Polin, The Daily DishMike Isabella, GraffiatoJim Jeffords, Evening Star CaféHaidar Karoum, Proof / EstadioBilly Klein, Café Saint-ExRis Lacoste, Ris

Jamie Leeds, Hank’s Oyster Bar Andrew Little, Sheppard Mansion Tiffany MacIsaac, Buzz Bakery Dennis Marron, Poste Moderne Brasserie Jon Mathieson, BLT Steak Cedric Maupillier, Mintwood Place Aaron McCloud, Cedar Harper McClure, The Federalist Clayton Miller, Wit and Wisdom Mary Lee Montfort, Mary Lee’s Desserts Wes Morton, Art and Soul Terry Natas, Carmine’s Kaz Okochi, Kaz Sushi Bistro Christophe and Michelle Poteaux, Bastille Nora Pouillon and Todd Woods, Restaurant Nora Leslie Poyourow, Fancy Cakes by Leslie Beau Ramsburg, Rettland Farm Michel Richard, Central Kimberly Robinson, Makin’ Whoopie Craig Rogers, Border Springs Farm Peter Smith, PS 7’s Alli Sosna, Allison Sosna Group / Microgreens Emily Sprissler, Mayfair and Pine Nicholas Stefanelli, Bibiana Vikram Sunderam, Rasika Zoe Tsoukatos, Zoe’s Chocolate Company Jeff Tunks, Passion Food Hospitality Bryan Voltaggio, Volt Rob Weland, Cork Wine Bar Robert Wiedmaier, Marcel’s David Winer, Eatwell DC Steve Yoon, Sushi Rock Demetrio Zavala, Lincoln

FEATURED MIXOLOGISTSAdam Bernbach, Proof / EstadioDerek Brown, Columbia RoomGina Chersevani, Hank’s Oyster BarJeff Faile, FiolaJon Harris, FireflyCorey Polyoka, Woodberry Kitchen

Rachel Sergi, Jack Rose Andrew Shapiro, Green Pig Bistro Colin Sugalski, Toki Underground Bryan Tetorakis, Rogue 24 Owen Thomson, Volt Todd Thrasher, TNT Bar Rob Yealu, The Federalist

TICKETS $300 AND CAN BE PURCHASED AT WWW.CHEFSFOREQUALITY.ORG

F

OR E Q U A LIT

Y

Ch fs JOIN US OCTOBER 24, 2012 FOR AN EVENING OF FOOD, COCKTAILS, FASHION AND MUSIC, PLUS AN EXTRAORDINARY LIVE AUCTION TO SUPPORT MARRIAGE EQUALITY IN MARYLAND.

PARTICIPATING CHEFS INCLUDE:Victor Albisu, Taco BambaJosé Andrés, ThinkFoodGroupSebastien Archambault and Peter Brett, Blue Duck TavernCathal Armstrong, Restaurant EveJon Arroyo, Founding FarmersKyle Bailey, Birch and BarleyIan Bens, JuniperJustin Bittner, Bar PilarJeff Black, Pearl Dive Oyster PalaceDanny Bortnick, FireflyDevin Bozkaya, Westend BistroAmy Brandwein, Chef AmyBErik Bruner-Yang, Toki UndergroundJeff Buben, Woodward TableRJ Cooper, Rogue 24Logan Cox and Alison Reed, RippleJohn Critchley, UrbanaScott Drewno, The SourceEnzo Fargione, ElisirTeddy Folkman, Granville Moore’sSpike Gjerde, Woodberry KitchenDean Gold, DinoTodd and Ellen Gray, EquinoxDavid Guas, Bayou BakeryScot Harlan, Green Pig BistroMichael Harr, Food, Wine & Co.Jerry Hollinger and Zena Polin, The Daily DishMike Isabella, GraffiatoJim Jeffords, Evening Star CaféHaidar Karoum, Proof / EstadioBilly Klein, Café Saint-ExRis Lacoste, Ris

Jamie Leeds, Hank’s Oyster Bar Andrew Little, Sheppard Mansion Tiffany MacIsaac, Buzz Bakery Dennis Marron, Poste Moderne Brasserie Jon Mathieson, BLT Steak Cedric Maupillier, Mintwood Place Aaron McCloud, Cedar Harper McClure, The Federalist Clayton Miller, Wit and Wisdom Mary Lee Montfort, Mary Lee’s Desserts Wes Morton, Art and Soul Terry Natas, Carmine’s Kaz Okochi, Kaz Sushi Bistro Christophe and Michelle Poteaux, Bastille Nora Pouillon and Todd Woods, Restaurant Nora Leslie Poyourow, Fancy Cakes by Leslie Beau Ramsburg, Rettland Farm Michel Richard, Central Kimberly Robinson, Makin’ Whoopie Craig Rogers, Border Springs Farm Peter Smith, PS 7’s Alli Sosna, Allison Sosna Group / Microgreens Emily Sprissler, Mayfair and Pine Nicholas Stefanelli, Bibiana Vikram Sunderam, Rasika Zoe Tsoukatos, Zoe’s Chocolate Company Jeff Tunks, Passion Food Hospitality Bryan Voltaggio, Volt Rob Weland, Cork Wine Bar Robert Wiedmaier, Marcel’s David Winer, Eatwell DC Steve Yoon, Sushi Rock Demetrio Zavala, Lincoln

FEATURED MIXOLOGISTSAdam Bernbach, Proof / EstadioDerek Brown, Columbia RoomGina Chersevani, Hank’s Oyster BarJeff Faile, FiolaJon Harris, FireflyCorey Polyoka, Woodberry Kitchen

Rachel Sergi, Jack Rose Andrew Shapiro, Green Pig Bistro Colin Sugalski, Toki Underground Bryan Tetorakis, Rogue 24 Owen Thomson, Volt Todd Thrasher, TNT Bar Rob Yealu, The Federalist

TICKETS $300 AND CAN BE PURCHASED AT WWW.CHEFSFOREQUALITY.ORG


It is possible to over-extract, resulting in a wine in which the fruit is overwhelmed by dried-out tannins.

Full-throttle extraction will produce a power-fully structured wine that requires aging. This can be a problem for new wineries that need more immediate cash flow. Classically made Bordeaux wines give little pleasure until they are aged eight to 20 years. One would have to question the economic sanity of the goal. (In winemaking, economic sanity and a fanatical quest for quality are mutually exclusive.)

There is a very special affinity with Cabernet Sauvignon and oak barrels. With correct oak ag-ing, aromas become more complex, the middle palate richer, and the finish lengthened. With some other wines, oak can overwhelm the fruit. But when Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are well-grown on a good site, it is difficult to over-oak.

Blending is more or less a requirement with Cabernet Sauvignon grown in non-Mediterra-nean climates. In our Piedmont, as in Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon can have great length, structure, and finesse, but on its own, it runs the risk of being one-dimensional and a bit skinny. Supporting actors are often needed to bring vol-ume and complexity to the blend. Traditionally, Merlot adds mid-palate volume, Cabernet Franc contributes aromatic complexity, and a bit of Pe-tit Verdot adds spice and flavor depth.

Wine StyleThere are two very different expressions of Cabernet Sauvignon. The first I’ll call hedonis-tic Napa (New World), which has power, sweet fruit, and low acidity. The second is intellectual Medoc (Bordeaux), which is elegant, savory, and structured. When grown in the right places in Virginia, our style falls somewhere in the middle. 2007 and 2010 gave our wine more of a Napa style: broad, voluminous, and fruit-driven. Vin-tages 2006, 2008, and 2009 resulted in wines more in the Bordeaux style with medium body, fresh acidity, and focused tannins.

FoodThe firm tannins of Cabernet Sauvignon cry out for red meat. My Bordeaux colleagues rarely serve vegetables at the dinner table, as they feel the greens interfere with this tannin/protein marriage. They joke that they let the cows eat the greens for them. Beef is my personal choice, as it is more subtle than lamb. I find white meats too lean for Cabernet.

Younger wines can handle more assertive preparations. Sauces, condiments, and seasonings can pair well with the raw rusticity of a youthful Cabernet. Older vintages are best with simple and pure preparations, as the elegance and complex-ity of the wine should take the lead, and the food should be more of an accompaniment.

D r i n K

s e a s o n a l ta b l e(Continued from page 37)

Cabernet(Continued from page 47)

Poached Pears 2 cups water2 cups white wine1 cup sugar½ ounce sliced ginger root ½ vanilla bean, split open

lengthwise (optional)4 large or 8 small perfectly

ripe pears

Directions

in a large non-reactive thick-bottom pan, bring water, sugar, ginger, and vanilla bean to boil, stirring until sugar is dissolved. turn

heat off.Peel, halve and core

the pears. as you prepare them, slide the pears in the hot poaching syrup, round side down. when all the pears are in, turn the heat back on and bring to boil. lower heat and simmer until pears are cooked through and easily pierced, 15 to 25 minutes, depending on the pears. keep them submerged while cooking to avoid discoloration.

remove from heat. let pears cool in liquid. Pears in their liquid can hold in the fridge for up to a week. remove from liquid and drain shortly before using.

the poaching liquid can be reused several times (keep refrigerated, add liquid as needed). or you may reduce to syrup to flavor a cocktail, drizzle on yogurt, toss with a fruit salad or glaze a roast (or a fruit tart). it should keep a month in the fridge.

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Fourth, they thought all this work should be performed by the lowest class and lowest paid societal group: slaves. To his credit, Jefferson loathed the slave system (although he profited from it) and from his records clearly appreci-ated key slaves on his staff. But cheap labor in the farm/food system was the dominant as-sumption of the day.

As you look back over these four worldviews, it should be easy to see that they still dominate today’s industrial agriculture thinking: exports, fertility from off-farm (today, petroleum-based), grain important enough to be subsidized, and cheap labor. If you don’t believe the last one, go visit any large farm/food concern.

Now, Mr. Jefferson, let me offer you a way out of this morass. First, how about localiza-tion? Jefferson saw the potential in this with his nailery. Unfortunately, he located it at the top of a mountain at Monticello. Locating what was then equivalent to a factory that required all the raw material—iron—to be hauled up a mountain using animal power does not seem very genius to me. Forcing nature rather than massaging nature was and still is a no-win plan.

In some ways, arranging global sales back then with a company in Richmond was easier than handling local sales, which often required piggybacking a dispatch on a less-than-trust-worthy courier. Today, the Internet, designed for globalism, is being co-opted (hijacked?) by those of us devoted to local commerce. This tool facilitates local networking, mar-keting, and distribution with unprecedented efficiency.

The carbon cycle, always a problem until 1943 when Sir Albert Howard closed the loop with scientific aerobic composting in his life’s treatise “An Agricultural Testament,” now can be efficiently captured on every farm. Labori-ous shoveling has been replaced with extremely efficient front-end loaders, and chippers and shredders turn biomass into decomposable materials rapidly.

Electric fencing in all its permutations, Mr. Jefferson, is probably the greatest invention for profitable agriculture in the history of the world. For the first time in human civilization, a scalable control mechanism exists to mimic the soil-building model of natural herbivorous

herds on grassland perennials. Prior to wire fencing, domestic livestock largely roamed free. Wooden fences were primarily barriers of ex-clusion (the yard, garden) rather than barriers of inclusion.

With computer micro-chipped energizers, we have shortened the spark pulse to .004 sec-onds at a milli-amp, albeit with 10,000 volts. Yikes! But it keeps the pigs, chickens, and cows where they need to be to prune biomass and restart the solar-driven photosynthetic accu-mulation process. How about that, Mr. Jeffer-son? Now your pastures can grow soil instead of depleting soil.

Let’s talk season extension. Have you heard of plastic? Now we can grow broccoli, carrots, and beets in January. Tall tunnels, hoop houses, ex-truded steel arches, and green houses are allow-ing us for the first time in history to really grow year-round what would have been unthinkable in the 1700s.

Finally, let’s talk labor. Rather than putting the bottom of our socio-economic people in charge of our farms and food, how about we, as a culture, liberate these folks and pay them what they’re worth? Let’s unleash a self-em-powered tsunami of agrarian entrepreneurs on our farm and food system.

Today, with stainless steel, thermometers, gas ranges, and the most clever techno-glitzy gad-gets to ever inhabit our kitchens, even a lowly cottage can become a food manufacturing en-gine. Small farmers with diversified species and modern machines, from walk-behind tractors to nifty soil block stampers, can churn out lots of food on small acreages. Rather than enslaving them with a host of bureaucratic and industri-ally approved paperwork and regulations, let’s free them to access their neighborhoods and friends with cottage-industry, appropriately scaled, transparent integrity food.

We’re still working on this labor thing, Mr. Jefferson. But hopefully we’ll appreciate that no nation can ever be truly free and secure until its food sector is free and secure. That requires freedom and not tyranny. And you know a lot about that. Here’s to an honored, respected, empowered, liberated farm and food work force. Can we drink some Monti-cello wine to that?

f o r u m

tJ, We Fixed it.(Continued from page 65)

CHIP

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Foodshed Fall 2012