SUPPLIER: McCall's PO # DATE: 7/21/98

PROJECT NAME:Industry Fit Brochure

FOR QUESTIONS CALL: Kate McCroary

/Butterick

/Butterick

We want you to look your best!

Look at Size with New Eyes

Begin by discarding any assumptionsyou may have about what size youwear. Then think about the last timeyou went clothes shopping. Did everygarment in your size fit you? Ofcourse not! Standard body measure-ments vary from one garment manufac-turer to another. And the ones used byyour favorite ready-to-wear brands maynot correspond to other ready-to-wearbrands or to the pattern industrys standard body measurements.

But the good news is that within thesewing industry, Butterick, McCalls,Simplicity and Vogue all use the sameset of standard body measurements.Once you have determined your patternsize, it will be consistent, regardless of pattern brand.

Measure and Compare

The way to determine pattern size is totake accurate body measurements, thencompare them with the pat-tern industry standards. Theillustrations and charts onthe following pages will takeyou, step by step, throughthis process.

Be prepared for a possibleshock: In some cases, yourpattern size may be one ortwo sizes larger than the oneyou are accustomed to inready-to-wear. But PLEASEdont let preconceivednotions stand in the way ofgood fit. Whos to knowwhat pattern size you use?There certainly wont be anysize labels in your finishedgarments!

Be aware, too, that only a lucky few arethe same size their whole life. With agecomes wisdom . . . and changing bodycontours. Its a good idea to retake yourmeasurements every six months.

Consumer Information Department Simplicity Pattern Co. Inc.

901 Wayne Street, Niles, MI 49121 1-888-588-2700

or www.simplicity.com

Consumer Information DepartmentThe McCall Pattern Company

11 Penn Plaza, New York, NY 100011-800-782-0323

or www.mccall.com

Consumer Information DepartmentButterick Company, Inc.

161 6th Ave., New York, NY 100131-800-766-2670

or www.butterick.com

Why doesnt my pattern fit the way my ready-to-wear garments fit and why isnt itthe same size? What can I do to improve the fit of the garments I sew? You may notwant to hear this, but you will need to measure yourself. Good fit begins with goodbody measurements.

1. Use a piece of transparent tape to rein-force the bust point on your pattern, appr.1/2 from end of dart. Draw a line parallelto the center front, from the lower edgethrough the bust point, (a).

Extend the line diagonally up to the armholenotch (b).

Draw a line from the bust point throughthe center of the existing underarm dart (c).

2. Cut along lines (a) and (b) from the bot-tom edge of the pattern to, but notthrough, the armhole seamline.

Cut along line (c) from the side to, but notthrough, the bust point.

3. Place tissue paper under the cut edgesof the pattern tissue and pin between the center front and the cut edge.Spread the pattern at the bust point, keepingthe cut edges parallel below the bust point.

For a C-cup, spread 1/2 For a D-cup, spread 3/4 For larger than a D-cup, spread 1-1/4.

Pin or tape all the cut edges in place.Redraw the center-front lower edge, asshown.

Mark a new bust point at the same level asthe original one but 1 to 1-1/4 closer tothe side seam. Draw new dart lines fromthe side seam to the new bust point.

4. To redraw the side seam, pin the newdart together and fold it down.Draw over the dart, connecting the originalside seamlines.

Unpin the dart. Draw from the center ofthe dart to the original seam. Redraw thecutting lines and remaining seamlines.

Why dont all patterns that are thesame size fit me the same way?The reason is something called ease, theamount of fullness added to a patternsdesign. There are two types of ease.Wearing ease is the minimum wiggleroom built into the garment. All gar-ments, except swimwear and some exer-cise wear, contain wearing ease. Designease is the extra amount that gives theintended fashion look. If a particular pat-tern is too large or too small for you, itmay be because the amount of design easeis not in proportion to your bone struc-ture. Before purchasing a pattern, studythe artwork and the photographs. Thesewill give you information about the design-ers intent.

Is there any way I can tell how muchease there is in a particular pattern?Written descriptions and backviews on the

back of the pattern envelope indicate ifthe garment is close-fitted (no ease), fit-ted, semi-fitted, loose fitting or veryloose fitting.

Finished garment measurements for bustand hip are always printed on the patterntissue. Note that, except for close-fittedgarments, these measurements includestandard body measurement + minimumease (2 to 3 at bust and hip) + designerease.

If you cant visualize what these measure-ments mean, measure and compare themwith garments you already have in yourwardrobe.

What if my height and back-waistlength measurements are shorter thanthe standards for my pattern size?If you are shorter than 55 and your backwaist is at least 1 shorter than the onethat corresponds to your bust size, you areprobably a Miss Petite. Look for Misses

patterns that have a special Petite logo.These will give you instructions for adjust-ing the patterns lengthwise proportionsto suit your petite figure.

Whats my size in Small, Medium,Large Size Patterns?Patterns sized small, medium and large arecut for the larger size in each designation.Unisex patterns, because they aredesigned to fit both men and women, usethe mans chest measurement to deter-mine the size range. For these patterns,match your bust measurement to the chestmeasurement.

Im a different size top and bottom.Are there any shortcuts to patternadjustment?Multi-size patterns are the perfect solution.Because several sizes are printed on thesame pattern tissue, you can follow thecutting lines for the size you are in eachbody area.

Where to Contact Us

from

For other queries concerning fit, contact any of the pattern companies listed below.

How to Increase the Size of a Dart-For the C-cup or larger figure

Fitting FAQS

Do You REALLY Know Your Pattern Size?

Illustration shown is from Fit for Real PeopleTM by Pati Palmer & Marta Alto

3

Do You REALLY Know Your Pattern Size?

Different shapes, but all a size 12!

a

b

c

1 2 4

t1.qxd 9/30/98 5:02 PM Page 1 (1,1)

Misses patterns are designed for a well proportioned, developed figure, about 55 to 56 without shoes.

Size 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26

Bust 2912 3012 3112 3212 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48

Waist 22 23 24 25 2612 28 30 32 34 37 39 4112

Hip 3112 3212 3312 3412 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50

Bk.Wst. Lgth 1512 1512 1534 16 1614 1612 1634 17 1714 1738 1712 1734

SUPPLIER: PO # DATE: 7/21/98

PROJECT NAME:Industry Fit Brochure

FOR QUESTIONS CALL: Kate McCroary

High bust Bust

Waist

Hips

How to MeasureMeasure over comfortable undergarments. Hold the tape measure snug, but nottight. Tie a narrow elastic around the waist. Bend and stretch until it settles at the natural waistline. Record your measurements on the chart below.

1. Bust:Around the fullest part of the bust and straight across the back.

2. High Bust/Chest:Around the body, under the arms above the fullest part of the bust.

3. Waist:Around the body, over the waistline elastic.

4. Hip:Around the body at the fullest part, usually 7-9 below the waist.

5. Back Waist*:Lower your head to identify the prominent bone at the base of the neck. Measurefrom this bone to the waistline elastic.

6. Height*:Stand barefoot against a flat wall. Measure from the floor to the top of your head.

*These two measurements require the help of a friend.

Body Measurement ChartsThe following chart gives the standard bust, waist, hip and back waist length measurements that correspond to Misses pattern sizes 4 to 26. ThesePattern Industry Standards are used by Butterick, McCalls, Simplicity and Vogue.

What to Measure Body Measurements Your Pattern Size

Yours Pattern Standards Preliminary FinalBust (around the fullest part)

High Bust/Chest(directly under arms, above the Bust and around the back)

Waist(around elastic)

Full Hip (around fullest part approx. 7-9 below waist)

Your Measurement Worksheet

Pattern Industry Standards

Step 1: Your BodyMeasurements

Enter your personal body measure-ments in the appropriate spaces in thefirst blank column.

Step 2: PatternStandards

Turn to the Pattern Industry Standardschart on the opposite page. Find thestandard measurements that are clos-est to your personal measurements forbust, waist and hip. Enter each mea-surement and its corresponding pat-tern size (which will be your prelimi-nary pattern size) in the appropriatespaces in the next two columns. Ifyou fall between two sizes, write themboth down. For example, if your bustmeasures 37-1/2, the closest standardmeasurement is 38, which gives yousize 16 as the preliminary size. If yourbust measures 37, your preliminarypattern size options are size 14 (a 36bust) or size 16 (a 38 bust).

Step 3: Final Pattern Size

The Bust Measurementdetermines final pattern size for tops,dresses, jackets & coats.

There is, however, an exception.

Patterns are drafted for the B-cup fig-ure. If your bra cup size is larger thana B, it will affect the way the patternfits. Use Your MeasurementWorksheet to determine your cupsize. Subtract your High Bust/Chestmeasurement from your Bust measure-ment.

Heres what the difference means:Less than 2 1/2: Youre an A- or B-cup.2-1/2 to 3 Youre a C-cup3-1/2 to 4: Youre a D-cup4 or more: Youre larger than a D-cup

If you are a B cup or smaller, use yourBust measurement to determine yourfinal pattern size.

If you are a C-cup or larger, matchyour High Bust/Chest measurement tothe Bust measurement of the PatternIndustry Standards Chart to determineyour final pattern size. This willensure good fit in those hard-to-adjustareas - shoulders, neckline, chest andupper back.

The Waist Measurementdetermines final pattern size for skirtsthat are not fitted in the hip area.

The Hip Measurementdetermines the final pattern size forpants and most skirts.

Tips:

If you fall between sizes, here are afew factors to consider:1. Bone structure. If youre smallboned, choose the smaller size; ifyoure large boned, choose the largerone.2. Fitting preference. If you like aclose fit, choose the smaller size; ifyou prefer a loose fit, go for the largerone.3. Fashion silhouette. The moreclosely fitted the silhouette, the saferyou are in choosing the larger size.

If you are larger than a B-cup size,youll get a better fit if you look fordesigns with bust darts and increasethe size of the dart. On the next page,we will show you how to adjust thepattern to accommodate for a largercup size.

See Fitting FAQs on page 4 for moreinformation.

How to use Measurements to Determine Size

Our Analyze Your Size chart provides an easy way to determineyour pattern sizes. We say sizes because you may find that yourdress size is different from your skirt or pant size. Follow these step-by-step instructions for filling in the chart.

Garment: Tops, Dresses, Jackets & Coats Pants and Slim Skirts Fuller Skirts

My Pattern Size

Take this handy pattern size chart to the store! (Just cut at dotted line below.)

1998 Simplicity, McCalls, Butterick. For educational purposes, this piece may be duplicated without permission. All others should contact one of the pattern companies for permission to duplicate.

t1.qxd 9/30/98 5:02 PM Page 2 (1,1)

Misses patterns are designed for a well proportioned, developed figure, about 55 to 56 without shoes.

Size 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26

Bust 2912 3012 3112 3212 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48

Waist 22 23 24 25 2612 28 30 32 34 37 39 4112

Hip 3112 3212 3312 3412 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50

Bk.Wst. Lgth 1512 1512 1534 16 1614 1612 1634 17 1714 1738 1712 1734

SUPPLIER: PO # DATE: 7/21/98

PROJECT NAME:Industry Fit Brochure

FOR QUESTIONS CALL: Kate McCroary

High bust Bust

Waist

Hips

How to MeasureMeasure over comfortable undergarments. Hold the tape measure snug, but nottight. Tie a narrow elastic around the waist. Bend and stretch until it settles at the natural waistline. Record your measurements on the chart below.

1. Bust:Around the fullest part of the bust and straight across the back.

2. High Bust/Chest:Around the body, under the arms above the fullest part of the bust.

3. Waist:Around the body, over the waistline elastic.

4. Hip:Around the body at the fullest part, usually 7-9 below the waist.

5. Back Waist*:Lower your head to identify the prominent bone at the base of the neck. Measurefrom this bone to the waistline elastic.

6. Height*:Stand barefoot against a flat wall. Measure from the floor to the top of your head.

*These two measurements require the help of a friend.

Body Measurement ChartsThe following chart gives the standard bust, waist, hip and back waist length measurements that correspond to Misses pattern sizes 4 to 26. ThesePattern Industry Standards are used by Butterick, McCalls, Simplicity and Vogue.

What to Measure Body Measurements Your Pattern Size

Yours Pattern Standards Preliminary FinalBust (around the fullest part)

High Bust/Chest(directly under arms, above the Bust and around the back)

Waist(around elastic)

Full Hip (around fullest part approx. 7-9 below waist)

Your Measurement Worksheet

Pattern Industry Standards

Step 1: Your BodyMeasurements

Enter your personal body measure-ments in the appropriate spaces in thefirst blank column.

Step 2: PatternStandards

Turn to the Pattern Industry Standardschart on the opposite page. Find thestandard measurements that are clos-est to your personal measurements forbust, waist and hip. Enter each mea-surement and its corresponding pat-tern size (which will be your prelimi-nary pattern size) in the appropriatespaces in the next two columns. Ifyou fall between two sizes, write themboth down. For example, if your bustmeasures 37-1/2, the closest standardmeasurement is 38, which gives yousize 16 as the preliminary size. If yourbust measures 37, your preliminarypattern size options are size 14 (a 36bust) or size 16 (a 38 bust).

Step 3: Final Pattern Size

The Bust Measurementdetermines final pattern size for tops,dresses, jackets & coats.

There is, however, an exception.

Patterns are drafted for the B-cup fig-ure. If your bra cup size is larger thana B, it will affect the way the patternfits. Use Your MeasurementWorksheet to determine your cupsize. Subtract your High Bust/Chestmeasurement from your Bust measure-ment.

Heres what the difference means:Less than 2 1/2: Youre an A- or B-cup.2-1/2 to 3 Youre a C-cup3-1/2 to 4: Youre a D-cup4 or more: Youre larger than a D-cup

If you are a B cup or smaller, use yourBust measurement to determine yourfinal pattern size.

If you are a C-cup or larger, matchyour High Bust/Chest measurement tothe Bust measurement of the PatternIndustry Standards Chart to determineyour final pattern size. This willensure good fit in those hard-to-adjustareas - shoulders, neckline, chest andupper back.

The Waist Measurementdetermines final pattern size for skirtsthat are not fitted in the hip area.

The Hip Measurementdetermines the final pattern size forpants and most skirts.

Tips:

If you fall between sizes, here are afew factors to consider:1. Bone structure. If youre smallboned, choose the smaller size; ifyoure large boned, choose the largerone.2. Fitting preference. If you like aclose fit, choose the smaller size; ifyou prefer a loose fit, go for the largerone.3. Fashion silhouette. The moreclosely fitted the silhouette, the saferyou are in choosing the larger size.

If you are larger than a B-cup size,youll get a better fit if you look fordesigns with bust darts and increasethe size of the dart. On the next page,we will show you how to adjust thepattern to accommodate for a largercup size.

See Fitting FAQs on page 4 for moreinformation.

How to use Measurements to Determine Size

Our Analyze Your Size chart provides an easy way to determineyour pattern sizes. We say sizes because you may find that yourdress size is different from your skirt or pant size. Follow these step-by-step instructions for filling in the chart.

Garment: Tops, Dresses, Jackets & Coats Pants and Slim Skirts Fuller Skirts

My Pattern Size

Take this handy pattern size chart to the store! (Just cut at dotted line below.)

1998 Simplicity, McCalls, Butterick. For educational purposes, this piece may be duplicated without permission. All others should contact one of the pattern companies for permission to duplicate.

t1.qxd 9/30/98 5:02 PM Page 2 (1,1)

SUPPLIER: McCall's PO # DATE: 7/21/98

PROJECT NAME:Industry Fit Brochure

FOR QUESTIONS CALL: Kate McCroary

/Butterick

/Butterick

We want you to look your best!

Look at Size with New Eyes

Begin by discarding any assumptionsyou may have about what size youwear. Then think about the last timeyou went clothes shopping. Did everygarment in your size fit you? Ofcourse not! Standard body measure-ments vary from one garment manufac-turer to another. And the ones used byyour favorite ready-to-wear brands maynot correspond to other ready-to-wearbrands or to the pattern industrys standard body measurements.

But the good news is that within thesewing industry, Butterick, McCalls,Simplicity and Vogue all use the sameset of standard body measurements.Once you have determined your patternsize, it will be consistent, regardless of pattern brand.

Measure and Compare

The way to determine pattern size is totake accurate body measurements, thencompare them with the pat-tern industry standards. Theillustrations and charts onthe following pages will takeyou, step by step, throughthis process.

Be prepared for a possibleshock: In some cases, yourpattern size may be one ortwo sizes larger than the oneyou are accustomed to inready-to-wear. But PLEASEdont let preconceivednotions stand in the way ofgood fit. Whos to knowwhat pattern size you use?There certainly wont be anysize labels in your finishedgarments!

Be aware, too, that only a lucky few arethe same size their whole life. With agecomes wisdom . . . and changing bodycontours. Its a good idea to retake yourmeasurements every six months.

Consumer Information Department Simplicity Pattern Co. Inc.

901 Wayne Street, Niles, MI 49121 1-888-588-2700

or www.simplicity.com

Consumer Information DepartmentThe McCall Pattern Company

11 Penn Plaza, New York, NY 100011-800-782-0323

or www.mccall.com

Consumer Information DepartmentButterick Company, Inc.

161 6th Ave., New York, NY 100131-800-766-2670

or www.butterick.com

Why doesnt my pattern fit the way my ready-to-wear garments fit and why isnt itthe same size? What can I do to improve the fit of the garments I sew? You may notwant to hear this, but you will need to measure yourself. Good fit begins with goodbody measurements.

1. Use a piece of transparent tape to rein-force the bust point on your pattern, appr.1/2 from end of dart. Draw a line parallelto the center front, from the lower edgethrough the bust point, (a).

Extend the line diagonally up to the armholenotch (b).

Draw a line from the bust point throughthe center of the existing underarm dart (c).

2. Cut along lines (a) and (b) from the bot-tom edge of the pattern to, but notthrough, the armhole seamline.

Cut along line (c) from the side to, but notthrough, the bust point.

3. Place tissue paper under the cut edgesof the pattern tissue and pin between the center front and the cut edge.Spread the pattern at the bust point, keepingthe cut edges parallel below the bust point.

For a C-cup, spread 1/2 For a D-cup, spread 3/4 For larger than a D-cup, spread 1-1/4.

Pin or tape all the cut edges in place.Redraw the center-front lower edge, asshown.

Mark a new bust point at the same level asthe original one but 1 to 1-1/4 closer tothe side seam. Draw new dart lines fromthe side seam to the new bust point.

4. To redraw the side seam, pin the newdart together and fold it down.Draw over the dart, connecting the originalside seamlines.

Unpin the dart. Draw from the center ofthe dart to the original seam. Redraw thecutting lines and remaining seamlines.

Why dont all patterns that are thesame size fit me the same way?The reason is something called ease, theamount of fullness added to a patternsdesign. There are two types of ease.Wearing ease is the minimum wiggleroom built into the garment. All gar-ments, except swimwear and some exer-cise wear, contain wearing ease. Designease is the extra amount that gives theintended fashion look. If a particular pat-tern is too large or too small for you, itmay be because the amount of design easeis not in proportion to your bone struc-ture. Before purchasing a pattern, studythe artwork and the photographs. Thesewill give you information about the design-ers intent.

Is there any way I can tell how muchease there is in a particular pattern?Written descriptions and backviews on the

back of the pattern envelope indicate ifthe garment is close-fitted (no ease), fit-ted, semi-fitted, loose fitting or veryloose fitting.

Finished garment measurements for bustand hip are always printed on the patterntissue. Note that, except for close-fittedgarments, these measurements includestandard body measurement + minimumease (2 to 3 at bust and hip) + designerease.

If you cant visualize what these measure-ments mean, measure and compare themwith garments you already have in yourwardrobe.

What if my height and back-waistlength measurements are shorter thanthe standards for my pattern size?If you are shorter than 55 and your backwaist is at least 1 shorter than the onethat corresponds to your bust size, you areprobably a Miss Petite. Look for Misses

patterns that have a special Petite logo.These will give you instructions for adjust-ing the patterns lengthwise proportionsto suit your petite figure.

Whats my size in Small, Medium,Large Size Patterns?Patterns sized small, medium and large arecut for the larger size in each designation.Unisex patterns, because they aredesigned to fit both men and women, usethe mans chest measurement to deter-mine the size range. For these patterns,match your bust measurement to the chestmeasurement.

Im a different size top and bottom.Are there any shortcuts to patternadjustment?Multi-size patterns are the perfect solution.Because several sizes are printed on thesame pattern tissue, you can follow thecutting lines for the size you are in eachbody area.

Where to Contact Us

from

For other queries concerning fit, contact any of the pattern companies listed below.

How to Increase the Size of a Dart-For the C-cup or larger figure

Fitting FAQS

Do You REALLY Know Your Pattern Size?

Illustration shown is from Fit for Real PeopleTM by Pati Palmer & Marta Alto

3

Do You REALLY Know Your Pattern Size?

Different shapes, but all a size 12!

a

b

c

1 2 4

t1.qxd 9/30/98 5:02 PM Page 1 (1,1)