FINKS

ACC E N TT H E M AG A Z I N E

O F L I F E ’ SC E L E B R AT I O N SS P R I N G /S U M M E R 2 0 1 2

CELEBRATESPRING!

Fashion FavoritesWatchmaking:

The NextGeneration

Last Bid for Love

18_Accent Cover_Spring Summer 2011.qxp:ACCENT 3/12/12 11:19 AM Page 2

the datejust

EVERY ROLEX IS MADE FOR GREATNESS. THE DATEJUST, INTRODUCED

IN 1945, WAS THE FIRST WRISTWATCH TO DISPLAY THE DATE THROUGH

AN APERTURE ON THE DIAL. ITS UNIQUE MAGNIFYING CYCLOPS EYE,

ADDED A FEW YEARS LATER, BECAME RECOGNIZED AS A ROLEX DESIGN

STANDARD. ADMIRED FOR ITS CLASSIC DESIGN, THE DATEJUST BECAME

AN ICONIC SYMBOL OF STYLE.

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The season of celebrations is upon us! Whether it’s Mother’sDay, Father’s Day, graduations, birthdays or engagements,spring is a time to celebrate the people we love. One of thethings I enjoy most about being in the jewelry business ishelping customers select a special piece to commemorate oneof life’s milestones. When my son turned 21 years old, I gavehim his first fine Swiss timepiece. As he grows up and movesthrough life, I wanted him to have something that was not onlypractical, but would serve as a remembrance for such a specialmilestone in his life.

Spring fashion is all about color this season and our storesare exploding with the newest collections by the industry’shottest designers. From the new David Yurman blue-tonedElements collection featuring aqua and blue chalcedony, toIppolita’s bright red, turquoise and multi-colored Riviera

collection, each of our 16 stores has an incredible selection for spring!I hope you enjoy browsing through our latest edition of Accent magazine. This is a great

issue filled with gift ideas, designer profiles and an expanded watch section. We look forwardto seeing you in the coming months as we help you celebrate the special moments in your life.

Dear Clients and Friends,

1

Marc Fink, President and CEO

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Contents spring/summer 2012

FOR

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W W W. F I N K S . C O M

C H A I R M A N & C E OMARC FINK

E V P & C F OWALT GAYNOR

V P O P E R AT I O N SMARK BAIR

V P I N F O R M AT I O N T E C H N O L O G I E STODD STAFFORD

D I R E C T O R O F M A R K E T I N GLINDSEY KIRBY

P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P

P U B L I S H E RSTU NIFOUSSI

E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

D E S I G N D I R E C T O RHANS GSCHLIESSER

M A N A G I N G E D I T O RJILLIAN LAROCHELLE

P R O J E C T M A N A G E R LISA MONTEMORRA

D E S I G N E R SCYNTHIA LUCERO

JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI

P R O D U C T I O N M A N A G E RPEG EADIE

D I R E C T O R O F P R E P R E S SHUGH K. STANTON

P R E S I D E N T A N D C E OBRITTON JONES

C H A I R M A N A N D C O OMAC BRIGHTON

Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary

depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2012.

Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550,

Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175;

Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-

686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publish-

ers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited

manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this

magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the

publishers. Volume 10, Issue 1. Accent® is a trademark of

Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and

Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.

FEATURES1 Welcome Letter

4 Fink’s Family Profile: Rob Matthews

6 Fink’s Family Profile: Jeannene Stephenson

8 Events: It’s a Good Thing

10 Fink’s Gift Guide

16 Accent Advisor

18 Designers: Penny Preville

20 Profile: Forevermark

22 Trends: Renewal

24 Designers: Marco Bicego

26 Profile: John Hardy

28 From the Runways

44 Travel: Eco-Immersion

48 Red Carpet

50 Wellness: Haute Healthcare

52 End Page: Last Bid for Love

WATCH SECTION33 Collecting: Time on His Side

34 Winders: Winding it Up

38 Profile: Michele Watches

40 Celebrity Ambassador:

Steffi Graf for Longines

42 Watchmaking: Lititz Watch Technicum

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ROB MATTHEWSStore Manager

Barracks Road Shopping Center

Rob Matthews has been in the jewelry business for over 20years, having been everywhere from big box stores tomom & pop shops. In 2002, he came to join the Fink’s

family as the assistant manager at our Regency Square Malllocation in Richmond, Virginia, and made the transition with us asthat store relocated to Short Pump Town Center. When our firststore in Charlottesville, Virginia opened in 2007, Rob took up theposition as store manager.

While Rob is a modest man, he recognizes the degree ofsuccess that he’s had, and he’s certainly happy to share the credit.He is quick to note that the working environment at Fink’s is a largecontributor to his success, saying, “We’re small enough to maintainthe hands-on approach and core values of a smaller company, butlarge enough to carry all of the best brands and have the buyingpower to bring our clients the best value.” That buying power hasgiven Rob the opportunity to work with what he calls the topquality and top brands that the industry has to offer.

Out of Fink’s top quality inventory, Rob still considers himselfa sucker for engagement rings. “I guess I’m kind of sentimentallike that!” He loves being part of such a special occasion insomeone’s life, but also enjoys the detail-oriented technique thatdiamonds require. Selling a diamond is always a specialexperience, from viewing it under the microscope to that momentwhen the customer knows it’s ‘The One!’ Rob says, “I think adiamond is the ultimate symbol of love and commitment thatsomeone can give or receive.”

When Rob isn’t busy managing his store in Charlottesville, healso travels to help train and recruit employees at some of ournewer Fink’s locations. When he finally gets some down time, Robenjoys family time, American sports cars, watching football andgolfing. Though he loves his job immensely, Rob is a beach bum atheart. He tells us, “If I weren’t selling jewelry, I’d be sitting on thebeach watching the waves come in, feeling the ocean breeze andworking on my tan!”Fink

’s Fa

mily

Pro

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JEANNENESTEPHENSON

Store Manager Thomas Jefferson Crossings

M r. Fink has always believed in promoting from within. That beingsaid, Jeannene Stephenson is a perfect example of how loyaltyand dedication is rewarded at Fink’s Jewelers. She began her

career as an office assistant in October 2001 and was soon promoted tooffice manager of the Triangle Town Center location in Raleigh, NorthCarolina. Jeannene’s sales and customer service skills continued to shineand in 2007, she became the assistant manager at Triangle Town Center. Ashort time later, an opportunity for a new store manager at the Fink’sJewelers in Forest, Virginia became available. Jeannene was the perfect fitand enthusiastically accepted the new challenge.

Having held four different positions during her tenure at Fink’s,Jeannene understands the nuances that make a store run smoothly, andher store is definitely a well-oiled machine. One task in particular thatJeannene holds in high regard is the need to take care of her customersfrom A to Z. She explains: “One of the unique features that sets Fink’sapart is our service to the customer before, during and after the sale.” Shealso feels that Fink’s Jewelers has a unique advantage in the Lynchburgarea. She says, “We’re able to offer the selection you find in bigger cities,coupled with the service you expect from a locally owned business. It’s aperfect combination.”

When asked what she loves to sell most, Jeannene exclaims,“Diamonds!” Fink’s carries some of the most sought-after bridal designers,but Ritani is her favorite. In fact, she just had her own classic diamond studearrings remounted into beautiful Ritani settings. “Today, many brides arelooking for unique styles. They want their ring to be special, one of a kind,”she explains. “Ritani does the most exquisite custom work. They can takea customer’s vision and make it into a reality.” This means a lot toJeannene, who believes in exceeding her customer’s expectationswhenever possible.

In addition to running her store, Jeannene balances a full personal life.This past year has been devoted to helping her son plan his wedding, andher excitement over her soon-to-be daughter in-law. They all took a recenttrip together to Steamboat Springs, Colorado for another of Jeannene’sfavorite activities—skiing! Jeannene is also an accomplished flutist and isvery active with the Lynchburg Symphony Orchestra. She has alwaysenjoyed working with children and says that if she weren’t in the jewelrybusiness, she would be teaching little ones how to ski. It’s no wonder shestays so organized… she’s got a lot to juggle. “I wouldn’t have it any otherway,” she says with a smile. Fi

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EVENTS

8

Below: Fink’s president and CEOMarc Fink poses with AbigailBartley, area director for the

American Cancer Society.

Left: Survivormodels JeanCrawford, DebThomas, and JoBrooks show offtheir stunning DavidYurman jewelry!

Last October, Fink’s Jewelers and DavidYurman joined forces in a month-long initiative tosupport the fight against breast cancer. Fink’s

president and CEO, Marc Fink, considers this a verypersonal cause, as someone whose family has beenaffected by the disease over many generations. “Several membersof my family have battled the disease, and because of this, I’m passionate aboutsupporting the search for a cure and raising awareness,” says Marc.

Knowing he wanted to do something special during the month ofOctober (National Breast Cancer Awareness Month), Marcapproached David Yurman and requested his artistictalent in creating an exclusive bracelet to commemorate—andraise funds for—the cause.

“My wife Sybil and I know that one in eight women willbe diagnosed with breast cancer in their lifetimes, and wewanted to contribute to the fight against this disease,” says DavidYurman. “When Marc Fink approached us about a special-editionpiece for the cause, we embraced the opportunity and created thisspiritual bead bracelet, which is meant to serve as a reminder of strengthand courage for those battling breast cancer.”

The bracelet was sold exclusively in all 17 Fink’s Jewelers locationsthroughout the month of October, with 10% of proceeds going backto the American Cancer Society in each local market.

It was important to Marc that the month not only be focused onfighting this devastating disease, but also celebrating survival. So in

addition to the exclusive bracelet, Fink’s hosted seven in-store events inselect markets throughout the month. During these private events, customersenjoyed light hors d’oeuvres and cocktails while previewing the latest

collections from David Yurman. As part of the celebration, breastcancer survivors were pre-selected and asked to model a

wardrobe of David Yurman jewelry. During the events,Fink’s Jewelers donated an additional 5% of all proceeds

from the evening back to the American Cancer Society. After selling over 200 bracelets and hosting several

successful events, Fink’s Jewelers and David Yurmanproudly donated over $18,000 back to the AmericanCancer society. “As the owner of a family business, I feel

it is my duty to give back to the communities we serve. It ismy mission to honor the women and men that battle breast cancer

and help support the fight for future generations.”

Below:Survivor

models HeidiWitthoeft,

Sandra Nivenand Barbara

Myers gettogether for

a picture.

Above: Survivormodels AretaJohnson, Chi Dzienny,Carmen Courtneyand Susan Harbin allpose with Marc Fink.

FINK’S JEWELERS AND DAVID YURMAN JOINED FORCES IN A MONTH-LONG INITIATIVE TO SUPPORT THE FIGHT AGAINST BREAST CANCER.

IT’S A GOOD THING

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VIRGINIA (Toll Free 888.699.7464)

Roanoke 419 at Colonial Avenue ..................................... 540.342.2991 Valley View Mall ............................................... 540.362.3779

Lynchburg 16960 Forest Road ............................................ 434.237.6301

Charlottesville Barracks Road Shopping Center........................ 434.284.4060

Richmond Chesterfield Towne Center ................................ 804.379.7171 Short Pump Town Center ................................. 804.377.8589 Stony Point Fashion Park .................................. 804.261.9371

Fredericksburg The Village at Spotsylvania Towne Centre ......... 540.736.1290

Dulles Dulles Town Center .......................................... 571.434.6540

McLean Tysons Corner Center ....................................... 703.584.3101

Norfolk MacArthur Center ............................................ 757.640.1132

NORTH CAROLINA (Toll Free 800.566.7464)

Greensboro 1951 Battleground Avenue ................................ 336.292.8355

Charlotte Northlake Mall ................................................. 704.927.4888 SouthPark ......................................................... 704.366.3120

Raleigh Triangle Town Center ....................................... 919.792.2171

Durham The Streets at Southpoint ................................. 919.281.8407

Opening this fall at North Hills shopping center in Raleigh!

www.finks.com

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NORMAN SILVERMAN

Rings available in a variety of carat weights and prices. Let our

From left to right: Fancy yellow center diamond ring, startingat $27,000

Split shank diamond ring, starting at $9,050

Fancy yellow center diamond ring, $25,500 Earrings with natural fancy yellow center diamonds, $21,000 All platinum settings

MIKIMOTO

From the Morning Dew collection, Akoyacultured pearls with diamonds in 18k gold. Drop earrings, $2,200 and 18” pendant, $1,380

The Akoya Special Edition Set featuresan 18” strand with 18k yellow gold anddiamond clasp together with matchingstud earrings, $3,950.

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DAVID YURMAN

From the ElementsTM collection in sterling silver, spiritual bead bracelet in aquachalcedony, moonquartz and bluechalcedony, $950

36” beaded necklace featuring aquachalcedony, aquamarine, blue chalcedony and moonquartz, $2,900

Blue chalcedony drop earrings, $550

Women’s Classic Quartz watch in steel and 18k gold with white mother of pearl diamond dial and diamond bezel, $6,800

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JOHN HARDY

In this Year of the Dragon,the Naga collection brings to life the Balinese legend of the dragon, a revered mythological creature symbolizing prosperity, love and success.

Small round drop earrings, $695

18” small round drop pendant, $895

Square rings in green amethyst, amethyst and blue topaz,$995 each

Naga band, $495

Square rings in citrine, $995 and hematite, $895

All in settings of sterling silver and 18k gold

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PENNY PREVILLE

Blue has long been Penny Preville’s favorite color and in this spring collection she has taken a fresh, modern approach with bright, lively colored turquoise gemstones.

34” turquoise and diamond signature chain in 18k gold, $9,990

Matching oval turquoise necklace with pavé diamonds, $3,140

Matching triple drop turquoise earrings, $3,845

ROBERTO COIN

From the Primavera collection, small rings in woven 18k rose, yellow and white gold, $540 each

Stretch bracelets in woven 18k yellow, white and rose gold with signature ruby that brings “great happiness and good fortune” to its wearer, $1,900 each

13


MARCO BICEGO

Amethyst, lemon citrine, peridot, yellow quartz, blue topaz, pink and green tourmaline, green amethyst, champagne quartz: each stone in the Jaipurcollection is unique among its peers and each is set in 18k hand-engraved gold to create a celebrationof organic “imperfection” inspired by nature.

Short drop earrings, $1,230

39.5” necklace, $2,520

Bangle, $3,070

CARELLE

Multi-faceted rose cut stones and a sleek satin

who inspire Carelle’s Signature collection.

Single drop earrings in blue topaz and greenquartz, $1,235

24mm green quartz ring, $2,785

All in settings of 18k yellow gold

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IPPOLITA

The spring/summer 2012 Wonderland collection in Paradise bursts with vibrant Mediterranean-inspired hues and bold, sexy silhouettes.

Sterling silver 5-stone ring, $495

Sterling silver 3-stone pendantnecklace, $995.

Sterling silver gelato bangle, $1,095

TAG HEUER

Formula 1, 32mm, in steel and ceramic, with whitediamond dial, $2,600 (Also available in black)

Carrera 16 Heritage Automatic Chronograph, 41mm, insteel with spiral dial and brown alligator strap, $4,500

OMEGA

Seamaster Planet OceanChronograph, 45.5mm with matte black ceramic bezel on stainless

steel bracelet, $8,200

BREITLING

Colt Chronograph II, 44mm, insteel with stratus silver dial andProfessional bracelet, $3,850

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ACCENT(ADVISOR)

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I KNOW WOMEN WHOWEAR FASHION JEWELRYLIKE BANGLES OR BOLDCUFFS, BUT BUY THESEPIECES AT CLOTHINGSTORES AS OPPOSED TOJEWELERS (EVEN IF THEYHAVE TO REPURCHASETHE PIECES WHEN THEYTARNISH). WHAT AREYOUR THOUGHTS ON THIS? I think many women balancetrendy fashion jewelry that theydon’t expect to last foreverwith items that they cherish,wear often and want to last.Since a great bangle is a classicthat will be in style forever, it’sworth investing in somethingboth fabulous and enduring.

WHAT’STHEDIFFERENCEBETWEENANTIQUEJEWELRY ANDESTATEJEWELRY?“Estate” is a popular jewelry

label, but does not specify theperiod of manufacture. “Estate”is primarily used to describejewelry that is previously owned.

The term “antique” generallyapplies to jewelry items that areat least 100 years old, thebenchmark used by governmentofficials for duty-free importingof antiques.

For spring 2012, everythingold is new again, so considerboth of these options, or try re-setting one of your own familyheirlooms.

WHICH CLASSIC/TIMELESSPIECES ARE MOST LIKELYTO BECOME KEEPSAKES OR HEIRLOOMS? Those that hold their value, can be passed to the next generation, or the piece thatbecomes your signature. We have a client who is never (ever!) seen without a beautifulstrand of pearls that her husband bought her many years ago; whether at the grocerystore or at a gala, her pearls say it all. And that’s the key: finding a statement piece ofjewelry (“statement” need not mean “expensive”) and letting it become your trademark.We’ve noticed that when times are tougher and discretionary spending more limited,jewelry becomes even more personal and relationship-driven. If you buy only one itemthis year, make it special and enduring.

WHICH ITEMSSHOULD ICONSIDERBUYING THISSEASON?For both ladies and gents, a good watch is anabsolute must! If you can invest in only one greatpiece of jewelry, let it be a practical and stylishwatch to enjoy for many years. It should cross overinto any activity, and should dress up or down.

When you have more to invest, consider buyingboth a “dress” and a “sports” watch. But in theinterim, one great watch transcends numerousstyles and ventures!

Three other ideas for ladies: 1) a beautiful strandof pearls, either classic round or baroque (uneven)shaped; 2) diamond stud earrings, a true go-with-everything item to wear with denim or ball gowns;and 3) a necklace or pendant with personalmeaning, like your children’s names or initials, animportant date, a display of faith or spirituality. (Ifyou’ve ever noticed women constantly touchingtheir necklaces, it’s likely because they feel anemotional connection to the symbol.)

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World renowned for its elegance,innovation and unique attention todetail, Penny Preville jewelry has

been worn by fashionable women from JackieOnassis to Nicole Kidman to Blake Lively. Here, anexclusive interview with the designer. How did you first get interested injewelry design?As a little girl, I’d go into New York City everySunday to visit my grandmother (Adele Preville, aself-described “Hungarian Gypsy”) at her ParkAvenue apartment. It was filled with amazingartwork: Chinese screens, Buddhas, rare art pieces.But what intrigued me most was her jewelry box,overflowing with Cartier, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels:exquisite pieces from different eras that mygrandfather bought her. I would touch them, trythem on, dream about them. My other grandmotherwas an artist (she painted Limoges china) as wasmy mother. Ultimately, I chose a major in fine arts. Iloved art history, re-living different eras.Describe your jewelry and the process tocreate it.Words that come to mind are intricate, romantic,

elegant, timeless. I’m all about the detail:beading, engraving, twisting, layering, texture…

My jewelry is made by artisans here in NewYork City: we start with an original model andmost of the work is done by hand: engraving,stone setting, polishing, finishing. Depending onthe piece, the process can take a few days to afew months.What inspires your designs?Travel. Nature. Architecture. Paintings. Fabrics.Lifestyle. Different civilizations (Egyptian,Byzantine, Ancient Greek, Russian…)How would you describe your personalstyle? What are your favorite jewelry pieces?There are two sides to me: very driven andpractical, but also romantic, very much a girly-girl.My favorite pieces include a garland ring, a widescroll-y diamond cuff that I wear for black tieevents, and a thin diamond bangle that I weareveryday. (It’s part of my body!)

I also love a Harry Winston ring with diamondsfrom the 1930s that my grandmother wore, and ablue star sapphire that my husband’s mother gotfrom her mother…

You work with your husband and twosons: how hard is it to combine businessand family? It can be challenging! Fortunately, we haveseparate roles: I do the design/creative and Jay(who started the business with me) managesfinancial/operations. Our two sons Skyler (32)and Derek (28) are learning all aspects and willhopefully find their niche. I didn’t expect the boysto join us: growing up, they were into sports andshowed little interest in the business. What are the key jewelry looks for 2012?Long chains, statement earrings, bangles andcuffs to mix and match, collectibles, differentstones, blackened metals and lots of color(especially blues!). I also believe in the mysticalpowers of certain stones—for strength or forprotection. What does a woman’s jewelry say about her?It’s reflects her style and individuality; it providesinsight into who she is as a person: spiritual,sentimental, practical... In fact, I love watching awoman select jewelry: when she finds the perfectpiece, it’s magical; it brings out something in her soul.

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Signature Style

DESIGNERS

PENNY PREVILLE’S JEWELRY IS AS FEMININE ANDFABULOUS AS SHE IS! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

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Natural DiamondNot Synthetic

Color Grade

E

Clarity Grade

VS1

Cut Grade

Excellent

Laser Inscription Registry NumberGIA 16354621

Carat Weight

1.53

THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY.

A GIA report is certainty from the source.

As creator of the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System,™

GIA sets the standards for diamond assessment, worldwide. Unbiased. Scientifi c.

A report from GIA gives you a clear understanding of your diamond’s quality.

Look for GIA Diamond Grading Reports and the jewelers who o! er them. www.4cs.gia.edu

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For those who demand perfection, there are few options. Forevermark,part of the De Beers group (the foremost international diamond expertfor 120-plus years), offers only the finest carefully selected, responsibly

sourced diamonds, meticulously cut and inscribed by highly trained mastercraftsmen. Less than one percent of the world’s diamonds are eligible to bearthe Forevermark inscription and only a select group of jewelers (we amongthem) are authorized to sell these incredible gems.

Inscribed using highly advanced proprietary technology, thesesuperlative diamonds feature the Forevermark icon and a uniqueidentification number, both invisible to the naked eye. The actual size of theinscription is one 20th of a micron deep (one 500th the size of a human hair)and can be seen in our store using a special viewer.

Although the inscription in no way affects the exceptional internal qualityof the diamond, it does ensure beauty, rarity, responsible sourcing and addedsecurity. Expert gemologists at The Forevermark Diamond Institute inAntwerp assess each stone according to rigorous standards of integrity andaccuracy. The result is the Forevermark Diamond Grading Report, yourguarantee of excellence and authenticity.

Those of us who are socially conscious should know that Forevermarkdiamonds are guaranteed conflict-free. But more than that, the companygoes above and beyond industry standards to ensure that their sourcingactively benefits communities in their countries of origin, countriescommitted to the highest business, social and environmental standards.

Beauty, rarity and integrity in one quintessential diamond: No wonderForevermark is the jewel of choice for Gwyneth Paltrow, Uma Thurman,Nicole Kidman, Michelle Williams and fabulous women everywhere, on andoff the red carpet.

QUINTESSENTIALDIAMONDS

THERE ARE DIAMONDS, AND THERE ARE FOREVERMARK DIAMONDS.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

PROFILE

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There are many ways to reenergize: yoga and meditation, a day at thespa, a cruise to wherever! But this year, it seems like everyone is talkingabout adding gemstone jewelry to that list of natural mood elevators.

From fashion insiders to celebrities and their stylists, it’s being recognized as ade rigueur accessory. As jewelry lovers, we know it’s beautiful...so why such bigbuzz now? Part of it has to do with the trending fashion colors this year—all ofwhich are available in gemstones—being touted as über uplifting. But equallyimportant, it seems, are the many new jewelry collections fashioned aroundexhilarating non-traditional stone cuts, as well as gems that are either new tothe market or haven’t been widely used for quite some time.

COLORS TO CHEER ABOUTWhen “Tangerine Tango” was chosen by the Pantone Color Institute as theColor of the Year, it set the stage for 2012 to be a year of sunny shades in bothfashion and jewelry. Leatrice Eiseman, Pantone’s executive director, says, “It’sattention-getting, for sure, and surprisingly flattering,” alluding to the realitythat not all women have a zest for the color orange—despite the many tonesof tangerine gracing dozens of spring runways.

“But orange must be a new addition to every woman’s closet this year. Ifyou’re not daring enough to wear it as a dress, pants, or jacket, wear this colorin accessories—especially jewelry. You need at least one strong statementpiece with vibrant orange gems. I myself didn’t have any orange jewelry, but Iwent shopping as soon as I saw all the orange lighting up the fashion shows.Be the woman your friends look at. Don’t be afraid to let the adventure ofchildhood abandon come back into your life.”

Three other important citrus shades for spring and summer, says Eiseman,for fashion and its gemstone jewelry complements, are “Solar Power” yellow,“Cabaret” pink and “Margarita” green. “Fashion designers are also showing alot of blue and taupe, but they’re toned down. The blue is fresh without beingtoo out-there. All the blue gems are perfect accents [for each other], and greatfor blue tone-on-tone layering.” The other important classic neutrals for springand summer are both in the taupe family—what Pantone calls “Starfish” and“Driftwood,” so gray is taking a backseat, at least until fall. Shades in the brownfamily are “perfect when paired with any of your bright, attention-gettinggemstone jewelry,” adds Eiseman.

SOME REALLY COOL CUTSWhile classic rounds, cushions, squares and the like continue to be important,so, too, are the less conventional cuts, especially doublets, slices, roughs androse cuts. Veteran actress Regina King, one of this year’s celebrity models atthe 2012 American Gem Trade Association’s prestigious Spectrum jewelryawards, says, “It’s important for people to be open to considering gemstonesand cuts they’ve never contemplated before.” The current star of TV’s hit policedrama Southland adds, “There is so much artistry out there in contemporarygemstone jewelry—you really see that in some of the unusual cuts.” DOUBLETS These are basically two-layered gem designs, with one gem onthe bottom and the second stone laid over it, creating a very distinctive look.Says Cindy Edelstein, president of the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau: “Thanks toclever gem cutters, designers are combining translucent rose cuts and gemslices with complementary opaque stones.”SLICES Typically, these gems are 2-D in form, with flat sides and bottoms. The

RENEWAL!THE SEASON’S FRESHEST COLORS,

NEWEST CUTS AND GOTTA-HAVE-’EMGEMS WILL ENERGIZE YOUR JEWELRY

BOX. BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE

TRENDS

Left: Cocktail rings from Roberto Coin’s diamond-accented, 18K goldHaute Couture collection, in green garnet, peridot and blacksapphires; yellow topaz and citrine; and pink sapphires.

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flatness allows light to pass through the piece, much likenatural light shining through a stained glass window.Sometimes the sliced gem is polished on both sides,depending on the designer’s individual vision.Helena Krodel, director of media and specialevents for Jewelers of America, says, “Thinkabout gemstone-slice earrings if you wantsomething lightweight and, at the sametime, very flattering; they bring light andcolor near the face.”ROUGH CUTS These asymmetricallyshaped gems—also called “raw”—are, for themost part, three dimensional, almostsculptural. They have an inherent, organic beautybecause they aren’t precision-cut to mathematicperfection. Each stone is, therefore, one of a kind.Vicente Agor, owner of an eponymous jewelry lineand president of the Contemporary Jewelry DesignGroup, says, “If you want jewelry that’s handcrafted andauthentic, with irregularities inspired by nature, designswith rough cuts are a great choice.”ROSE CUTS Steeped in history, various forms of rose cutshave been around since the mid-16th century. The gems, usuallycircular in outline, have a flat base and a crown composed oftriangular facets in symmetrical arrangement, which rise to form a point. Ifyou’re familiar with the oval briolette, that’s one variation of the rose cutand a favorite among contemporary designers who love color. This year,rose-cut sapphires—especially in pink, green and blue—are showing upeverywhere.

...AND SOME REALLY HOT GEMSBarbara Wheat, executive director of the International Colored GemstoneAssociation, tracks colored gemstone popularity worldwide. Here, shepoints to five gems she sees trending—especially in light offashion’s leading color choices, which, she says, likelymeans these gems will get even morepopular as we progressthrough 2012.A TOP TANGERINEFIRE OPAL: Theseradiant orange-redgemstones arerenowned in legendand lore for theirpositive effect on thepsyche. That said, youmay have to pay the pricefor that profound sensation ofpeace and harmony! Often thecost of these expressive and fierygems is determined by the play of color,body color and transparency. “Fireopal is really popular in Asia,” saysWheat. With tangerine as this year’s“Color ot the Year,” it will likely getstronger here, too. Other favorites: Mandaringarnet, carnelian, orange sapphire, spinel,

spessartite garnet, red agate.A GO-TO GREEN ZULTANITE: This

transparent diaspore gem, foundonly in Turkey, hasn’t been usedmuch in jewelry—until now.

With its inherently interestingcolor-change properties—from kiwi green tochampagne brown toraspberry pink—it’scertainly out of theordinary, and the perfectchoice for anyone lookingfor something unique or a

true conversation starter.Other favorites: chrysoprase,

green agate, peridot, green opal,green jade, green quartz, green

amethyst, green garnet, greentourmaline.

A PRIMARY YELLOW CITRINE: “Lately,citrine has been particularly popular, both for itscolor and the variety of cutting styles being used

on it,” says Wheat. With its sunny hue and oftenaffordable prices, citrine has recently captured the

fancy of a growing number of typically high-enddesigners, many mixing it with a range of orange andpink stones on a single piece of jewelry for a kind of

overall neutral effect. Other favorites: topaz, golden beryl,chrysoberyl, yellow moonstone, yellow sapphire.

A “NEW” BLUE AQUAMARINE: One of the most in-vogue gems right now is aquamarine. Hardly new,

March’s birthstone is increasingly being spotlightedin designer collections in every cut imaginable. “Yes,

aquamarine is in a revival period, especially hot in largesizes with good color saturation. I’ve also seen an increasing

number of modern brides choosing aquamarine for theirengagement ring center stone,” says Wheat. The lucid

color—from the light blue of the sky to the deep blue of the sea—captivates. Other favorites: chalcedony, moonstone, labradorite,

sapphire, Iolite, Tanzanite, blue topaz.A PERFECT PINK CHALCEDONY: A treasured favorite of

the ancient world, chalcedony is being featured more andmore by trendsetting contemporary artisans. While it’s certainly

one of the perfectly beautiful pinks, chalcedony iswell liked in its blue and green varieties, too.“Translucent chalcedony in all three shades is

hot—particularly big, smooth cabochons,” saysWheat. Other favorites: pink tourmaline, rubellite,

pink sapphire and raspberry quartz.

23

Top: Zultanite and diamond necklace byStephen Webster.

Bottom: Bracelets from Ippolita’s Silk Roadcollection in 18K gold, featuring peach moonstone,aquamarine, gray and white moonstone, mother of

pearl, champagne citrine, labradorite and bluetopaz doublet

EVERYONE ISTALKING ABOUT

ADDING GEMSTONEJEWELRY TO THELIST OF NATURAL

MOOD ELEVATORS.

FINK_Trends_Renewal.qxp:FINK_ 3/12/12 1:44 PM Page 23

DESIGNERS

WARM GOLD AND SATURATEDSEMI-PRECIOUS GEMS BRING MARCO

BICEGO’S SPRING COLLECTIONTO LIFE. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

GETTING PERSONALWhat are you reading? I just bought a new apartment in Venice, so I’ve been looking to the shelter magazines for design inspiration. What are you wearing? I try to wear pieces that are relaxed and casualand fit into my everyday life—mostly Armani. What are you eating? Anything with fresh local ingredients and always vino!Where are you traveling? Basel, Switzerland to the jewelry fair todebut my newest collections.

COLOR POPS

In the 12 years since launching his collection, one thing has remainedunchanged for jewelry designer Marco Bicego: his love of gold. “Almostall of our collections are crafted from 18 karat yellow gold. It’s intrinsic

to our brand DNA,” says the Italian native with goldsmithing in his family’shistory. His loyalty to the metal makes for a smooth transition betweencollections and pieces that can always be mixed, matched and layered.

“I don’t really see jewelry as a trend,” Bicego tells us. “Each season ourcustomers gravitate towards certain [different] silhouettes, but there arealways constants in jewelry. It’s about a woman’s connection to a piece—anemotional feeling.”

This spring, the designer is excited to introduce his Africa collection,filled with long layering necklaces and colorful gems, which Bicego cites asabsolute must-haves for any woman looking to update her jewelrywardrobe. He has long been drawn to the beauty of Africa and was inspiredby unexpected natural elements, from baobab seeds to the stratified lavaof Kilimanjaro. “I was taken by the fascinating imperfections of yellow-goldjewels, similar to the imperfections found in the tribal jewels worn byAfrican women. The hand-engraved gold finishes generate warmth thatevokes the colors of the sub-Saharan land.” Bicego is an avid traveler andoften names his collections—Africa, Jaipur, Paradise, etc.—after thedestinations that inspire them.

When he’s not busy dreaming up new designs, Bicego relishes thechance to spend time with his wife and children, play in his local soccerleague and hunt for mushrooms. He can frequently be found outdoors,exploring his surroundings and searching for new ideas in “the beauty I findin everyday life, colors in nature and architectural design.” And of course,he adds, “I always try to imagine what my clients want to wear next!”

The bold spheresand jewels of theAfrica collectionare tangible andpronounced, yetremarkably light.

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PROFILE

SCALINGBACK

First introduced in 2009, on the anniversary of John Hardy’s 20th yearin business, the Naga collection tells the Balinese myth of the dragonand the pearl. As legend has it, the dragon would leave his volcano

each night and dive down to the bottom of the sea to visit his love, the pearl.At sunrise, as he burst from the water and returned home to the volcano, thewater dripping from his scales fertilized rice fields across the land andbrought prosperity to the Balinese.

Now, for the Chinese Year of the Dragon, John Hardy head designer andcreative director Guy Bedarida has dramatically expanded the 2012 Nagacollection with more pieces featuring this mythical symbol of good fortune,prosperity and success.

Like the dragon in the myth, one of John Hardy’s missions is to helpthe Balinese land and people flourish. The company views itself as acollaborative effort between designers and artisans, and believes that “abusiness can prosper while respecting people and nature.” Their “GreenerEveryday” policy signifies an ongoing commitment to environmentalconservation, which includes the planting of bamboo, rice and even theblack palm wood used in some of its men’s designs. The brand’s HongKong headquarters are completely green, and its Mambal, Bali compoundis a village unto itself, composed of traditional bamboo and mudstructures, rice paddies and an organic farm that provides lunch for theentire workforce there.

The Naga collection, like all John Hardy collections, is handcrafted in Baliby these talented native artisans, some of whom have previously served asjewelers to Balinese kings. Some pieces feature full dragons or dragonheads, while others showcase a more abstract dragon scale motif. Craftedfrom sterling silver, yellow gold and an assortment of precious and semi-precious gems, the collection’s cuffs, bracelets, rings, necklaces and earringsare rich with detail, inside and out.

JOHN HARDY REVISITS ITS NAGACOLLECTION WITH FIERY NEWDESIGNS TO USHER IN THE YEAR OFTHE DRAGON. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

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“I LIKE TO THINK THAT THE WEARERS OF THE NAGACOLLECTION WILL ENJOY LOVE, PROSPERITY AND LUCK.”

–GUY BEDARIDA, HEAD DESIGNER

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WATCHESACCENT MAGAZINE SPECIAL SECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2012

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Among the many rewards of successin sports, perhaps the best isgarnering the respect and

admiration of fans and peers. But for thoseathletes competing in Rolex-sponsoredevents, the grand prize comes in the form ofa luxury timepiece, a goal drivers set forthemselves long before they’re strappedinto their racecars.

One man, Scott Pruett from Auburn,California, is a true champion in all forms ofmotor sports, with the additional honor ofhaving won more Rolex-sponsored racesthan any other driver. Thus, he has becomethe proud owner of racing’s largest collection of Rolex timepieces.

Pruett has won the Rolex 24 at Daytona four times. He’s also wonthe Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series Championship three times andwas awarded a Rolex timepiece for each of these accomplishments. Inall, Scott owns 12 Rolex timepieces, of which 10 were awarded for hisbrilliant race wins.

“My first Rolex is by far the one I love the most,” he confides. “WhenI won the Championship in 1986 while driving for Jack Roush and FordMotor Company, I was invited to compete in what was known as theInternational Race of Champions (IROC). It was such an honor just to beinvited to compete in this series, and I promised myself that if I wereever to win one of these races, I’d go out and buy myself a Rolextimepiece. At the last race ever to run at Riverside Raceway in California,and with just a few laps left in the race, I took the lead and held on totake the win. The first thing I did after that was to go out and buy myfirst beautiful Rolex Submariner.” (In addition to this Submariner, Pruettalso bought himself a solid gold GMT-Master.)

As a world famous racecar driver stillat the top of his game, it’s remarkable thatPruett makes time for other ventures. Heand his wife Judy have joined forces toestablish Pruett Vineyard, as well as WordWeaver Books, publishers of a series ofchildren’s books they authored. Notsurprisingly, the theme is racing, includingtitles like Twelve Little Race Cars, RookieRacer and Racing Through the Alphabet.Based on actual aspects of Scott’s racingcareer, these books provide inspiration andexcitement for young readers.

As for his winemaking business,Pruett explains that even though racing and winemaking are spectrumsapart, the feelings of accomplishment are similar. “Racing is literallyminute to minute, day to day; things happen in a matter of seconds.Wine making, on the other hand, takes years: you can’t rush the process;the wine absolutely tells you when it’s ready. But it’s the blend ofchemistry and artistry in winemaking that I find so rewarding. I’m notone of these athletes who puts my name on a project withoutinvolvement; in fact, I am totally hands on at my winery, involved inevery aspect of the process (pressing, corking, labeling), with the help ofsome incredible winemakers.”

Scott Pruett began his career in karting at the age of eight and has racedevery year since. 2011 was his 43rd year of racing and it was anotherextraordinary one. With teammate Memo Rojas, Pruett won the Grand-AmRolex Sports Car Series Championship, earning yet another Rolex timepiece.“At 51 years old, I’m racing against drivers half my age,” says Pruett, “sobeing the fastest driver out there is incredible! But I never take it for granted:I’ve been blessed with this ability and feel very fortunate.”

33

TIME ON HIS SIDESCOTT PRUETT IS AN UNDISPUTED CHAMPION, ON AND OFF THE TRACK.

RO

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FOCUS: COLLECTING by David A. Rose

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FOCUS: WINDERS by Laurie Kahle

Like early automatic wristwatches designed to eliminate the need forwinding, watch winders originated as practical items to keeptimepieces ready for action at all times. Aside from the convenience

factor, winders can also extend the life of a watch movement. Theyensure that essential lubricants are evenly distributed throughout themechanism, and reduce wear and tear on the crown winding system bylimiting the need for resetting. But as watch collecting becomes a

consuming passion for many affluent consumers, some are seeking evermore elaborate storage systems to keep their horological treasuresenergized and secure. From models with high-concept designs featuringinlaid wood cabinetry and carbon fiber accents, to humidor componentsand stereo systems, winders have entered the realm of luxuryfurnishings with an array of options to create a personalized unit—theultimate of which is a completely custom installation. (Continued)

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WINDING IT UPTRANSCEND SHEER FUNCTION WITH A STYLISH CUSTOM INSTALLATION.

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SEREIN DIAMOND

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Upon his retirement in the 1990s, Chuck Agnoff, founder and presidentof Orbita in Wilmington, N.C., received a gold Rolex automatic watch fromhis wife. He wore the watch on weekends, and found himself frustrated bythe need to constantly reset it when the power reserve ran out. He solved theproblem by devising a “gadget,” as he calls it, tokeep the watch moving when it wasn’t on his wrist.Soon, friends and jewelers started making requests,and Orbita was born. “First and foremost it was aconvenience,” he explains. “But later, I learned thatwhen a watch lays flat for a long time, the lubricantscan wick away from moving parts, so keeping yourwatch on a winder is also about preventativemaintenance that can extend its life.”

Orbita’s recent Avanti system was designed toaccommodate your ever-growing collection andcater to your personal needs. “It became a sort oflifestyle cabinet,” says Agnoff of the expandablestorage system that incorporates drawers where you can install a safe, ahumidor, a wine cooler, or other options. You can store up to 48 watches in theItalian-made Macassar or burl wood cabinets. “It’s a semi-custom winder,”explains Agnoff, “so it is priced economically because it’s built off a standardconfiguration—like buying a car and adding options.”

A similar made-to-measure approach is taken at Buben & Zorweg ofAustria. Known for its modern, slick aesthetic, the company can expand andtailor their winders to your wishes, or you can choose a custom installation.The Treasury, for example, presents an array of 10 interchangeable modules

that include winding modules for four or 16 watches, a humidor, displaycabinets for barware and red wine, and storage drawers for manual watchesand jewelry.

The brand’s limited-edition Objects of Time collection includes a modelproduced in partnership with Aston Martin. TheObject of Time One-77 (pictured above) seamlesslycombines a safe, a collection of the brand’sproprietary Time Mover watch winders, humidors,storage drawers, four world clocks, a sound systemwith a subwoofer and iPod docking station, and aflying minute tourbillion clock. The striking designemulates the muscular curves of the One-77supercar, which, like the winder, has a limitedproduction of 77 pieces.

The next level of watch storage is building acustom room, like the space commissioned by one ofOrbita’s West Coast clients. “It was a unique project,”

explains Agnoff. “He was building a new house and wanted a security room(basically an exhibition area) for all his watches, so he could relax and enjoyhis collection.” The project involved constructing a room with built-in storageunits that hold 108 winders for automatic timepieces, in addition to storagedrawers for over 200 watches. “But very few people want to go through thatkind of process—starting from scratch and working with architects,” saysAgnoff, who said the project cost around $125,000 and required six to eightmonths from concept to completion.

Luckily, you have options.

36

Winders have entered the realm

of luxury furnishingswith an array of

options to create apersonalized unit.

The design of the Object of Time One-77 watch winder (above, right) emulates the muscular curves of the Aston Martin One-77 supercar.

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FOCUS: PROFILE by Randi Molofsky

Awalk through the historic district of downtown Miami encapsulatesmuch of Michele Watches’ telltale brand appeal: both share an ArtDeco design sensibility, vibrant color palette and bold sense of style.

It’s no wonder Michele is favored by a fashion-forward clientele with aninnate understanding of classic design.

From speedboats to soirees, everything is a little bigger in Miami.The same is true for Michele, as oversized cases emphasize a bit offlash and a signature red button logo creates instant cachet. Miami’sseaside location also necessitates a certain day-to-nighttime glam.Lounging poolside? Bold chronographs with rubber straps from theJelly Bean collection or a sporty white Tahitian Ceramic are chicstandouts. When the sun goes down, diamond-studded timepiecesmake a big statement at affordable prices.

Spring 2012 brings a refined update on Michele’s instantly

recognizable style. Serein, inspired by the Cloette, features a modern takeon a timeless design. A silvery-white dial highlights a fine circular patternand oversized Roman numerals. The Caber Sport maintains the Caber’sround case and T-bar design, now updated with a scalloped bezel andchronograph dial (available with or without diamonds).

One of Michele’s most popular styles, Tahitian Jelly Beans, is alsoreinvented this year in new brights and beach-inspired pastels. Look-at-me neons like pink, blue and green are balanced by seaside neutrals inmint, coral and steel.

Want to make a unique statement any time of year? The brand’scommitment to practicality and fun led them to offer a stunning variety ofstraps that are easily mixed and matched. From alligator to glittery leather,cobalt blue to rainbow stripes, a sense of play makes punctuality a breeze,whether or not you can make it down to North Beach.

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SO HOT THEY’RE COOLMICHELE OFFERS STYLES FOR EVERY SETTING.

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Create a charm bracelet one memory at a time.

Thousands of charms in silver and gold.

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FOCUS: CELEBRITY AMBASSADOR by David A. Rose

At the third annual Women Who Make a Difference awardssponsored by Longines and Town & Country, tennis legend,philanthropist and Longines ambassador Steffi Graf was a

presenter honoring the three recipients: Ann McGee, Gracie Cavnar andAnn Tisch. All four women dedicate themselves to improving the futureprospects of underprivileged children, and there’s something to be saidfor someone who rose to the pinnacle of her sport, maintained number-one status in the tennis world for over three years straight, and upon herretirement has devoted herself to children in need.

Children for Tomorrow, the non-profit founded by Graf, initiatesprojects that provide assistance to children and families who have becomevictims of war, persecution and violence. Her gentle nature and subtlemanner may give the impression that she’s too sweet and kind to managethe rigors of such an undertaking. But anyone who has seen her playtennis will know better of the woman who has compiled a record of 902wins (against only 115 losses) with her overpowering forehand anddominant playing style.

Graf is widely considered to be the greatest female tennis player of the20th century. Her career spanned two decades, during which she wonWimbledon seven times, the French Open six times, the U.S. Open fivetimes and the Australian Open four times. Graf says that “winning theFrench Open in 1999, after knee surgery and the physical and mentalstruggles I went through to get back into shape,” was one of her greatestaccomplishments. “Having gone through all that to win my last GrandSlam was a high point for me, and certainly the most satisfying experiencein my tennis career. But I cannot compare a successful career in tennis withthe satisfaction I get from working with my Children For Tomorrowfoundation. My husband [Andre Agassi] says it extremely well: When wewere on the tennis court we were able to entertain people for a shortperiod of time, but being in children’s lives, changing their trajectories andbringing them hope is so much more important and more satisfying thanany victory in a given sport. Tennis gave me the platform to do what I amable to do now with my foundation: raising awareness—and funds—forhelping children.”

With regard to her Longines partnership, Graf says, “I have alwaysbelieved in synergy. Longines and I share many beliefs, especially withregard to quality; Longines represents the highest of standards. Perhapsmore significant from my point of view is their commitment to givingback to communities. They have been such a support to my foundation (aswell as many others). Another reason I’m so happy to be a spokespersonfor Longines is that I love watches. I’ve always found a watch to be anessential part of my life. As a tennis player, if you’re lucky enough to wina match you often get a watch. As far back as my junior tournaments (Iused to play in the Goofy Cup), I can remember winning a Mickey Mousewatch. Later on in my career, of course, the watches became moreprecious. My favorite timepiece is definitely the Longines Conquest. I loveits elegance combined with its more casual styling.”

Though she’s given up competing in the spotlight, Graf confides, “Istill enjoy getting out on the court, but it doesn’t happen very often unlessit’s for my foundation or Andre’s foundation, where we might givelessons or play exhibition games to raise money. We really do enjoyplaying when we get the chance.”

From where we sit, it looks like Graf is still winning.

40

A WOMAN FORALL SEASONS

IN A WORLD WHERE PEOPLE ARECONSUMED WITH THEIR OWN WELL-BEING,

IT’S RARE TO FIND SOMEONETRULY CHARITABLE. STEFFI GRAF ISA REMARKABLE WOMAN WHOSE

HUMILITY AND HUMANITY TRANSCENDEVEN HER NOTORIETY.

JOH

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USS

EL

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FOCUS: WATCHMAKING by Karen Alberg Grossman

The first thing one notices upon entering the stately stone buildingnestled in the rolling hills of Lititz, Pennsylvania (a town with astrong watchmaking tradition) is the magnificent brass clock in the

lobby. One soon learns it was crafted totally by hand by students in thisRolex-sponsored watch school, under the direction of its esteemedprincipal Herman Mayer.

Mayer is a certified watchmaker with tremendous pride in, andrespect for, the Swiss watchmaking tradition. His goal is to developindependent retail watchmakers who are technically exceptional, ofcourse, but who are also business-savvy, service-oriented, personable,well rounded and creative, a tall order to say the least. “The watchmakerof today needs to be compatible and in sync with the spirit of the high-end watch culture,” Mayer maintains.

His intense two-year program, establishedin 2001, is fully funded by Rolex (but totallyseparate from the Rolex Service Centerupstairs in the building). Mayer is personallyresponsible for creating and updating thecurriculum, which is also used at watchmakingschools in Seattle and Oklahoma. It features sixmain areas of training: history/culture, micro-mechanics, mechanical movement diagnostics

and repair, electronic movement diagnostics and repair, customer serviceand case/bracelet diagnostics and repair.

The school is small and selective, with a capacity for only 28 students(there are currently 12 first year students and 13 in their second year). It’san intense eight-hour school day (7:30 to 4:00, with a 30 minute lunchbreak) and requires much outside reading and research. According toMayer, most students are highly motivated and even talk watchmaking intheir free time. “We emphasize that whatever they don’t learn in these twoyears, they pay for later on…”

Of utmost importance to Mayer, who interviews and tests 70 to 80applicants each year looking for various skills, from strategic reasoningto social competence, is abstract thinking. “Because often in a fine

watch,” he explains, “you can’t diagnoseproblems just visually. You need to analyzebased on input and output of the mechanism:it’s behaving a certain way so the problemmust be this or that. You can’t always see theproblem because many watches are built inlayers, so the movements might be covered,or else just too small.”

Mayer admits that among his greatestfrustrations is a decline in abstract thinking

LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM: TEACHING WATCHTHINK

A REMARKABLE SCHOOL THAT INSTRUCTS THE ART, SCIENCE

AND SOUL OF SWISS WATCHMAKING.

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skills among young people over the past decade. “I’m sorry to say this,but in many applicants, these skills have gone down the drain. It’s a veryvisual world these days; we rely on computers to do everything soyoung people don’t learn to think for themselves. But in a watchmakingcurriculum, abstract thinking skills are essential. It’s all about deductivereasoning, which is no longer taught in school…”

Why are these skills so critical? “Because evenif the student has worked on hundreds of watches,the next movement that comes along might betotally different than anything he’s experienced. Soit’s not a matter of simply learning to piece thepuzzle together: students need to understand whatthe parts do and how they interact and whether ornot the watch is worth repairing. Of course it’s rarewhen you can’t fix it at all (e.g. serious salt waterdamage where parts are caked together), becauseeven if spare parts are not available, we can alwaysmake the parts. That’s what we teach them in the‘micromechanics’ segment of the program.”

According to Mayer, his ideal applicant is mid-to late 20s (the actual age range is 17 to 45 andmostly male; there are only one or two females perclass), in a second career but with some previousexposure to watchmaking. “If they’ve had someexposure, at least they know what the profession isabout: having to deal all day long with these tinyparts, the responsibility of working on suchvaluable pieces. Of course, there are always somewho drop out because it’s too stressful…” Recentapplicants have included bankers and real estatebrokers, some from major cities. “People havemore appreciation for job security when it’s a second career,” he explains.“And watchmaking certainly offers job security: all of our graduates whowant jobs get them.”

Beyond technical expertise (which Mayer believes can be taught),

the most important trait is the desire—the passion—to repair and buildwatches. Also necessary is the ability to communicate. Explains Mayer,“It’s essential that we teach students how to network: with peers, withmentors, with superiors, so they’re not left alone with importantdecisions. In fact, I’m working on making this an active component of

the curriculum.” On a personal note, Mayer grew up in

Würzburg, Germany; his university studies focusedon philology and teaching. But at some point, hislove of watches inspired him to study watchmaking,which led him to servicing jobs in the States, andultimately to Lititz.

In addition to restoring watches, Mayer is acollector: he wears a different watch every day andfavors those that combine technical precision with abeautiful finish. So dedicated is Mayer to the Lititzprogram that he even lets his students work on hispersonal watches (excluding vintage handmadepieces, of course!). His first expensive watch was infact a classic Rolex. Does he still have it? “Of course:Rolex watches are forever…”

His most meaningful watch is one he inheritedfrom his father. “When my dad returned from WWII,the economy was down so he drove a taxi onweekends. An American soldier who couldn’t affordthe fare gave him his automatic Cyma. I wore it everyday for years but at some point, it was difficult to getreplacement parts because their factory had burneddown. Observing the watchmaker adapting spareparts by hand was my first exposure to the craft andits artistry, which triggered my lifelong passion.”

Mayer’s best advice to graduating students? “Remember to take theloupe off on occasion and engage in meaningful, positive dialogue withmembers of your professional environment. You need to actively live theexciting and ever-evolving watchmaking culture you are part of.”

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“Nobody buysa fine watch justto tell time…” —Herman Mayer

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At its best, eco-friendly travel makes every day feel like the world isnew. Full immersion in an exotic natural environment makes everysound clearer, every smell sweeter, every sight sharper, every taste

more delicious. At the destinations below, getting away becomes a journeyof coming home to the senses.

EDEN IN THE OCEAN:Cruise the Galapagos with EcoventuraThe arc of the sun and rise and fall of the tides measure the days asEcoventura’s luxury motor yachts cruise the Galápagos Islands. The volcanic

archipelago straddling the equator 400 miles west of Ecuador standsoutside human time. Under the tutelage of two naturalists per 10-cabinvessel, a one-week voyage is an intimate engagement with the planet’sleast-spoiled corner.

When you see the lay of the islands from atop a volcanic cinder cone,you immediately grasp the archipelago’s violent birth. Other hikes acrossblack lava moonscapes to sandy coves reveal the resilience of bird andanimal life. Protected since 1959 as a national park, every ecological niche ofthe islands is inhabited by creatures that view human intruders as a curiosityrather than a threat. You stare roosting seabirds in the eye, and watch blue-

GETTING IN TOUCH WITH THE WORLD CAN BRING YOUTO YOUR SENSES. BY PATRICIA HARRIS AND DAVID LYON

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The view from thelounge attached toone of the suites atAmangiri makes thedesert seem like aprivate space.Coffee is alwaysavailable for earlyrisers on theEcoventura yachts inthe GalapagosIslands.

ECO-IMMERSION

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IMAGINE THE PLACES THEY WILL GO.

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footed boobies in their comiccourtship dance. Male frigatebirds nearly roll overbackwards on their nests,incapacitated by the red chestpouches they have inflated tolure a mate.

The strange creaturesinhabit their own Garden of Eden. Sea lions bask on the beach nursing theirpups, flightless cormorants literally “neck” as they court, giant tortoiseslumber through highland meadows, and bright red Sally Lightfoot crabsskitter across black rocks in the surf. Park rules forbid touching the wildlife,but no one has told the sea lions not to waddle over to sniff a human’s toes.(Their whiskers tickle.) ecoventura.com

RAINFOREST RHYTHMS:Costa Rica Escape at Lapa RiosLapa Rios Ecolodge crouches where Central America’s last lowlandrainforest meets the beach in Costa Rica. A model of ecologically sensitivetourism since 1993, the main lodge and 16 thatched bungalows nestle in theforest overlooking the ocean. Scarlet macaws chatter from branches andtree frogs sing all night, reminding you that Lapa Rios is the humanexception in a 930-acre private nature reserve.

More than 300 species of birds have been logged at Lapa Rios and

birders seek the glint of feathers, the flurry of flight, and burble of song toadd to their life lists. Guided hikes in the rainforest uncover exotic flora andfauna—from more than 200 species of orchids to nectar-licking kinkajous,distant relatives of the raccoon. For a complete immersion in the rainforestexperience, join an off-site excursion into the wild river canyon of ElRemanso to spend an afternoon rappeling down a series of four waterfalls.laparios.com

MANTRAS OF THE CANYONS:The Purifying Desert at AmangiriFor thousands of years, people have sought enlightenment and rejuvenationin the purifying spareness of the desert. Amangiri, which means “peacefulmountain,” hunkers down in a southern Utah desert valley looking south atGrand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Blending into the rawlandscape of bluffs and mesas with an architecture as minimal as awhispered mantra, the resort is constructed around a swimming pool oasis.

After a day of hiking amid hoodoos and step-rocks, retreat to the25,000 square foot spa where hot stone massage and full-bodytreatments aim to restore the Navajo concept of Hozho, which translatesas “beauty, harmony, balance, and health.” To encourage meditation, dailygroup yoga classes are offered in the light-flooded yoga pavilion. Butnothing so brightens the spirit as escaping the resort’s circle ofillumination at night to commune with a dark desert sky awash with stars.amanresorts.com

The giant tortoises of theGalapagos Islands are

one of the region’sendangered species.

The step pool at the spa atAmangiri glows in the falling

light of dusk.

In Galapagos, unconcerned sea lionslet photographers snap their portraitswith abandon.

Sunsets (and sunrises)are spectacular in the

Galapagos Islands.

All thebungalows atLapa Rios inCosta Rica areconstructed ofthatch.

The foot hue ofblue-footed boobiesvaries by individual.

STRANGECREATURESINHABIT THEIROWN GARDENOF EDEN

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Though the Guess model-turned-actress is always striking, Amber Heard truly smoldered

at the SAG Awards. Her fitted black satin gown epitomized covered-up sexy, while sparkly

diamond studs and metallic smoky eyes added just the right amount of shimmer.

Zac Efron and Michelle Pfeiffer sure made a good looking pair at the New Years Eve premiere.

Yellow gold and pink tourmaline chandelier earrings lit up Pfeiffer’s face and helped prepetuate

that youthful glow. We don’t know how she does it.

For Showtime’s Emmy Nominee Reception at the Mondrian Los Angeles, Claire Danes chose

pavé diamond drop earrings that popped against the silvery threads of her dress. With a confident

RED CARPET

Blonde BombshellsWITH LIGHT LOCKS AND HEAD-TO-TOE STYLE,

WE’D GIVE THESE STUNNING CELEBS AN AWARD ANY DAY. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

AMBER HEARD ZAC EFRON & MICHELLE PFEIFFER CLAIRE DANES

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smile, flushed cheeks and dewey décolletage, the nominee for Best Actress in a TV Drama looked

like a winner long before they called her name.

Stacy Keibler knows how to accessorize. Adorable arm-candy aside, the former Ravens

cheerleader still looks sensational in the old purple and black, topped off with teardrop earrings,

stacked bangles and a notice-me cocktail ring. As if we wouldn’t have noticed her without it.

All tassel, no hassle! Katherine Heigl’s blue sapphire and black rough-cut diamond earrings lent

an effortless glamour to her gown at the 39th Annual American Music Awards. Paired with a

sparkly strap and matte red lips, the look recalled old Hollywood at its best.

Nothing amps up a little black dress like a statement necklace. At the L.A. premiere of The

Mighty Macs, Marley Shelton chose this blackened beauty to elevate her outfit from ho-hum to

yum! Kelly Osbourne, Kate Mara and Kristin Cavallari have recently been spotted in identical

designs; you can bet that style-savvy ladies everywhere are following suit.

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When was the last time you went to a spinning class with yourdoctor? How about bike riding or grocery shopping together?Like fashion and jewelry trends, healthcare trends evolve. One

“new” trend (it’s actually been around for a decade) is concierge medicine. Also referred to as boutique medicine, concierge medicine often works

with insurance or Medicare, offering members 24/7 access to their primarycare physicians, immediate appointments, better connections to topspecialists and, in some cases, house calls. (In order to participate, patientsalso pay a fee independent of insurance.) This unique approach is designednot only to enhance routine exams and the treatment of illnesses, but alsoto educate patients and create awareness in preventive care. The theory isthat a closer doctor-patient relationship encourages the patient to becomesavvy and proactive enough to ward off ailments that can lead to sickness.

One trendsetter in concierge medicine is MDVIP, a company withover 175,000 patients and 500 physicians in its network across 34 statesand the District of Columbia. Annual memberships range from $1,500 to$1,800. MDVIP was founded in 2001 by two primary care physicians whowanted to focus on personalized care and a reinvention of the primarycare model. “These doctors believed there had to be a better way to putthe patient first, emphasizing not just treating people after they becamesick, but actually helping them stay healthy,” says Mark Murrison,MDVIP’s president of marketing and innovation. According to Murrison,the average primary care practice has about 2,400 patients, so it’s notunusual for doctors to see around 35 to 40 patients in a typical day. It’s

estimated most doctors spend approximately eight minutes or less witheach patient, which Murrison believes is barely enough time to addressthe symptoms or underlying causes of an illness. MDVIP doctors captheir practice at 600 patients, with about 10 to 12 patient visits per day,allowing for higher levels of specialized care. Data shows MDVIP has apatient yearly renewal rate of 92%, with a patient satisfaction rate of96%. There’s also evidence that MDVIP members are hospitalizedsignificantly less than non-MDVIP members—Medicare beneficiarieshave 75% fewer hospitalizations and insured patients 65% fewer.

Other member-based companies are gaining recognition forinfusing traditional medicine with specialized care. WhiteGlove Health,based in Austin, Texas, works primarily with self-insured companies,helping them with costs and enabling them to provide betterhealthcare to their employees and dependents. Their model involvesmobile primary care, essentially house calls, where a nurse practitionercomes to a member’s home, workplace, hotel room, etc., offeringdedicated care for both acute and chronic illnesses, wellnesscounseling, diagnostic testing and prescription medications. “It’s likeMarcus Welby: the good old fashioned house call that we’ve broughtback and made affordable,” says Michael Cohen, VP of marketing.

Clearly, concierge medicine has the potential for significant growth.With an estimated 5,000-plus physicians now practicing it, it might just bea matter of time before you too are organizing bike rides and supermarketoutings with your doctor in order to stay healthy.

HAUTE HEALTHCAREBOUTIQUE MEDICINE IS ALL THE RAGE. BY LISA MONTEMORRA MENGHI

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My heart was pounding as I handed my passport to the smartlydressed associate from Christie’s. Just a week before, I’d beenholding the “hottest ticket in town”—a prime 3 p.m. pass to

preview the world-renowned jewelry collection of Elizabeth Taylor. The entireChristie’s block was lined with stately private limos dropping off elegantlydressed “ladies who lunch,” no doubt fresh from nibbling on micro-vegetablesalads and savory soufflés at La Grenouille.

In addition to the magnificent jewels, what struck me as I perused thevarious lots at the preview was how many lives Elizabeth Taylor hadtouched. In every room of the seemingly endless exhibit, peoplepassionately discussed her movies, her personal style, her tremendousinfluence. Women well past their fashion prime whispered about how this1960s Pucci tunic or that 1970s Halston caftan had inspired their ownwardrobe choices. My personal connection with this incredible lady wasour shared astrological sign: Elizabeth Taylor was the archetype of Pisces’“soulful eyes” and tendency to be “in love with love.”

The cheerful Christie’s associate wished me luck as she handed me mypaddle—number 5217. I tried to calm my nerves as I mounted the stairs tothe James Christie room. Working my way through the television cameras,I settled into a fifth row seat right under the auctioneer. I took a cue fromthe “serious” bidders in the rows ahead of me and stayed focused on the

bidding board and the auctioneer in his lavender silk tie. I had carefully studied the catalogs, settling on two lots of Zodiac

pendants and a lot of two Aldo Cipullo for Cartier Love bracelets. I had beenconsidering a lot of aquamarines until I remembered that Liz was aFebruary Pisces, not a March one like me. Her vast amethyst collection—including mineral specimens—suddenly had meaning beyondcomplementing her violet eyes.

The night before, I’d witnessed the mounting frenzy at the sale of the“Legendary Jewels,” but I was certain there’d be less insanity for the“ordinary” jewels. In fact, I was quite confident that I’d be able to securea lot—perhaps even two. But such illusions evaporated by the time thebidding closed on the fifth lot of the day, a pair of Van Cleef & ArpelsPisces pendants on opera-length chains. I had researched the intrinsicvalue of the items, estimated a premium for their venerable provenanceand set what I thought were reasonable bidding limits. I realized I wassadly mistaken when I was outbid by $50,000!

As the auction progressed, prices skyrocketed and I was feeling increasinglydejected. By the time the hammer went down on the Cartier Love bracelets, theprice was $75,000 over my top bid. I left the auction to wander RockefellerCenter and reflect wistfully over my lost chance at Love (or at least the Lovebracelets) and the beauty, style and legend of a truly amazing woman.

LAST BID FOR LOVEAN ACTRESS, AN AUCTION, A YOUNG MAN’S DREAM… BY JOSEPH UNGOCO

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