DISPUTATIONS: THE KOSOVO ISSUEShould the EU demand that Serbia recognize Kosovo as a condition for admission to the European forum? Ali, Lucas, and I deliberated this question at length in preparation for a fleeting ninety minute deliber-ation – or “disputation”, if we are to employ more technical jargon. As judges of this case, we came prepared to contextualize any arguments that the Pro and Con teams would bring to the table. More difficult a duty, we had to dissect weaknesses in either team’s statements so that we could decide which team made a more compelling case. The process – preparation, action, and reflection – was far more stimulating than I’d anticipated, requiring strong analytical skills and capacity to think on one’s feet. I now sympathize with persons making decisions in such heavily contested contexts – our final announcement was only made after being granted a ten-minute extension on deliberations. Team Con!

MLADEN’S HOUSE!

On the return trip from Novi Sad, Mladen directed the bus to his childhood home (and occasional summer destination). His family – mother, father, and younger brother – extended their hos-pitality, serving food (cheese, pas-tries and watermelon); directing tours (to the garage and Mladen’s bedroom); and providing enter-tainment (a photo album tracing Mladen’s youth – he never had an awkward phase! ). The stopover added a nice human touch to our Balkan journey. Most importantly, it offered Mladen the chance to demonstrate his greatest pride: his nunchuck skills!!!

NIKOLA TESLA MUSEUMWhen I first heard mention of his name, my mind raced back to a physics course I took in high school – bolts of electricity flew from my teacher’s induction motor to the tips of his fingers. In Belgrade, I experienced a more immediate connection to Nikola Tesla. Visitors to the museum celebrating his life’s accomplishments lauded him as a national hero. Throughout the city his name frequently appeared – third to Tito and Sava. Tesla’s work, while simplistic, was absolutely incredible when contextualized – it provides the heartbeat of life in the 21st century.

US EMBASSY & UNHCRAfter completing a security clearance interview at the US Embassy in Belgrade, I made my way across the complex to meet with Maja, the director of the State De-partment’s regional branch of the Bureau of Population, Refugees, and Migration. We discussed US involve -

ment in the field - they’ve been incredibly active in facilitating the repatriation efforts of displaced persons throughout the peninsula. In response to my inquiry, Maja explained the rewards of working with the Bureau. Later that day I met with Vesna at the UNHCR branch up the street. Vesna affirmed the effectiveness of governmental and NGO work in the Balkans, citing impressive figures related to the reduction of stateless persons in Serbia. I initiated these meetings because both organizations were accessible and could potentially advise on career prospects in the field – they proved invaluable in catalyzing my intention to apply for graduate programs in refugee studies.

SCAVENGER HUNT

Professor Sullivan, Mladen, and Tori are all familiar with Belgrade. Together they created a “scavenger hunt” that led our group of five across the expansive city to explore gems that would have otherwise remained hidden. We had great fish soup along the banks of the Danube in the distant enclave of Zemun; we laid in the sun and went swimming on the rocky beaches of Ada; and we found a collection of albino animals at the Belgrade Zoo. We only lost our way a couple of times…the Cyrillic street signs were difficult to navigate!

FAREWELL RIDE ON THE DANUBE

After more than thirty days of living in close quarters, the group seized a final opportunity to be together in a con-tained space: aboard a small river boat on the Danube! The two hour journey was complete with guests (Nevena from Praxis), singing (“Summertime”, performed by Marie), and décor (bou-quets of sunflowers doled out to our leaders). There’s a lot of love in the photo above: on the floor, Will and pooch; fore and port, passing a smooch.

ON TO THE NEXT: OXFORD, ENGLANDThe Dialogue ended on August 3rd. We flew to Frankfurt intact,

at which juncture I split ways to catch a flight to London Heathrow. Five minutes from landing, I soared above the bustling Olympic Village, drawing parallels to Sarajevo’s stadiums from the 1984 Games. At border patrol I crossed paths with family and friends of Serbian Olympians. And on the eighty-minute bus ride to Oxford I watched bucolic scenes whiz by, just as I had on our journey to Belgrade.My return to the UK has been sprinkled with intermittent reminders of our journey across Bosnia & Herzegovina and Serbia, elevating my consciousness of the ever-active region. In the coming days, months, and years, I anticipate reminders will continually surface. Perhaps I’ll discover vestiges of Yugoslav culture while on co-op in Johannesburg, South Africa…

My extended appreciation goes to Marie Hargitt and Molly Stevens who lent select photos from their superb

collections – without their images, this presentation would rely entirely on the low-resolution scenes I captured on my

iPhone (e.g. the panorama above).

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS