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YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

1010

10

Unmissable museums & galleriesBest restaurants & cafésHistoric baths & spasFascinating sights along the DanubeLiveliest bars & clubsMost fun places for childrenGreat day trips out of the cityHotels for every budgetBest shopping areas & marketsInsider tips for every visitor

10

10

10

10

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

TOP 10


BUDAPEST

Left View of Liberty Bridge Right Margaret Island

Budapest Area by Area

Left State Opera House interior Right Outdoor café on Váci utca

Józsefváros

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Viziváros

Lipótváros

Belváros

Gellért

Tabán

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0yards metres 800800

The Castle Districtand North Budapp62–67

pp68–73Gellért and Tabán

pp82–87Central Pest

Around Városligetpp88–93

Around Parliamentpp74–79

The Top 10 Travel Guide to Budapest divides this huge city into five easily managed central areas (shown below) and one area exploringGreater Budapest (see map on back flap). Each area is colour coded;colour bands on the pages covering the central areas correspond to the colours shown on this map. Almost every place mentioned in thebook has a map reference, which takes you to the maps on the front and back flaps.

Rózsadomb

Újlipótváros

NaphegyTabán

Gellért

Víziváros

II

Lukács GyógyfürdπLukács Baths

Király GyógyfürdπKirály Baths

Sándor palotaSándor Palace

Rudas GyógyfürdπRudas Baths

CitadellaCitadel

Rác GyógyfürdπRác Baths

Budavári palotaRoyal Palace

Hajós Alfréd uszodaHajós Alfréd Pool

Centenáriumiemlékm√

CentenaryMonument

Ferences templomFranciscan Church

Hadtörténeti Múzeum Museum of Military History

Néprajzi MúzeumEthnographical Museum

Gellért Szálló és FürdπGellért Hotel and Baths

MargitszigetMargaret Island

OrszágházHungarianParliament

Állami OpeState Opera

Magyar Nemzeti GalériaHungarian National Gallery

Mátyás templomMátyás Church

Magyar NemzeHungarian Nation

Szent István BazilikaSt Stephen's

Basilica

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Margit hídMargaret Bridge

Széchenyilánchíd

Chain Bridge

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Szépm√vészeti MúzeumMuseum of Fine Arts

M√csarnokPalace of Art

Városliget református templonVárosliget Calvinist Church

Vajdahunyad VáraVajdahunyad Castle

Széchenyi StrandfürdπSzéchenyi Baths

Közlekedési MúzeumTransport Museum

Liszt Ferenc Emlék MúzeumFranz Liszt Museum

Liszt Ferenc ZeneakadémiaFranz Liszt Academy of Music

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Iparmüvészeti MúzeumMuseum of Applied Arts

Milleniumi Emlékm√Millennium Monument

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Új SzínházNew Theatre

eraháza House

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ugatiyaudvar

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ntral Budapestp on back flap

KEY

Top 10 sight

Other sight

Metro station

HÉV station

Train station

Tram route

River boat boarding point

Tourist information

Railway

Pedestrian street

City wall

BUDAPEST

CRAIG TURP

DK EYEWITNESS TOP 10 TRAVEL GUIDES

Reproduced by Colourscan, SingaporePrinted and bound in Italy by Graphicom

First published in Great Britain in 2006by Dorling Kindersley Limited80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL

A Penguin Company

Copyright 2006 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London

All rights reserved. No part of thispublication may be reproduced, storedin a retrieval system, or transmitted inany form or by any means, electronic,

mechanical, photocopying, recording orotherwise, without the prior writtenpermission of the copyright owner.

A CIP catalogue record is available fromthe British Library.

ISBN-13: 978-1-40531-442-8ISBN-10: 1-40531-442-7

Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy of quality or popularity is

implied. All 10 are, in the editor’sopinion, of roughly equal merit.

Con

tent

s Left Royal Palace from across the Danube Right Japanese Garden, Margaret Island

ContentsBudapest’s Top 10 Budapest’s Highlights 6

Hungarian Parliament 8

St Stephen’s Basilica 12

Váci Utca 14

Gellért Hotel and Baths 16

Margaret Island 18

Hungarian National Gallery 20

Mátyás Church 24

State Opera House 26

Hungarian National Museum 30

Statue Park 32

Moments in History 34

Baths and Swimming Pools 36

Museums and Galleries 38

Places of Worship 40

Cover: DK Images: Dorota and Mariusz Jarymowiczowie clb, bl; Photolibrary.com: Index Stock/Ron Roczmain image. Front flap: Corbis: Rachel Royse bl; Lonely Planet Images: Jonathan Smith br; Masterfile: GailMooney clb. Spine: DK Images: Dorota and Mariusz Jarymowiczowie. Back: DK Images: Gábor Barka tl;Dorota and Mariusz Jarymowiczowie tc, tr.

The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of

going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers

cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor forany material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in thisbook will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of

our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL.

Contents

Left Gobelin tapestry, Parliament Centre Gellért Baths Right Rondella Borozó restaurant

Left Interior of Mátyás Church Right Liberty Bridge

Danube Sights 42

Children’s Attractions 44

Festivals and Events 48

Shops and Markets 50

Restaurants 52

Cafés, Pubs and Bars 54

Clubs 56

Day Trips From Budapest 58

Around TownThe Castle District and North Buda 62

Gellért and Tabán 68

Around Parliament 74

Central Pest 82

Around Városliget 88

Greater Budapest 94

Streetsmart

Planning Your Trip 102

Getting To Budapest 103

Getting Around Budapest 104

Useful Information 105

Things to Avoid 106

Shopping Tips 107

Eating and Drinking Tips 108

Budapest on a Budget 109

Banking and Communications 110

Security and Health 111

Places to Stay 112

General Index 118

Key to abbreviationsAdm admission charge Dis. access disabled access Ft forint

BUDAPEST’STOP 10

Budapest’s Highlights6–7

Hungarian Parliament 8–11

St Stephen’s Basilica12–13

Váci Utca14–15

Gellért Hotel and Baths16–17

Margaret Island18–19

Hungarian National Gallery20–23

Mátyás Church24–25

State Opera House26–27

Hungarian NationalMuseum

30–31

Statue Park32–33

Top Ten of Everything34–59

BUDAPEST’S TOP 10

7

6

NaphegyTabán

Gellért

Víziváros

Vár

XII

Dun

a (D

anub

e)

ÁR PÁDFE JED

E LEMÚ

TJA

M A R G I TK

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T

MÉSZÁ

ROS

U

H E G Y A L J AÚ T

ALAGÚT U

ATT ILA ÚT

KR ISZT INA KÖRÚT

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F∏ U

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AK

IR

AK

PA

RT

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MR

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RT

BE M

RA

KP

AR

T

CSA LOGÁNY U

BEM J.TÉR

NAGYIMRE TÉR

SZILÁGYITÉR

CLARK ÁDÁMTÉR

DÍSZTÉR

NAPHEGYTÉR

DÓZSATÉR

Budapest’s HighlightsThe finest of the Habsburg triumvirate of Budapest, Vienna and Prague, theHungarian capital is much grander in scale than the Austrian and Czechcapitals. Comprising three separate towns – hilly Buda and Óbuda on theDanube’s western bank, and flat Pest on the eastern bank, this is a city richin historical sights, including the Roman ruins of Aquincum, the Turkishbaths and the Neo-Classical Parliament. At night it buzzes with livelybars and clubs, and offers some top-quality options for eating out.

Margaret IslandIsolated until the 19th century and

long a retreat for religious contem-plation, the lush and still secludedMargaret Island is an ideal place for apeaceful stroll (see pp18–19).

6

Bud

apes

t’s T

op 1

0

Váci UtcaFor centuries,

Váci Street has beenthe centre of theHungarian commer-cial world. Traders, swindlers,prostitutes and gentlemen allmingled in the street’s packedhostelries and shops (see pp14–15).

Hungarian ParliamentViewed from the opposite bank of the Danube,

the façade of the Hungarian Parliament is one ofBudapest’s defining sights. Its endless roomscontain boundless treasures (see pp8–11).

Previous pages: River Danube with Mátyás Church in the distance

St Stephen’s BasilicaWith its 96-m (315-ft) high dome visible fromall over Budapest, St Stephen’s Basilica housesthe city’s most bizarre relic – the mummified

forearm of King István (see pp12–13).

Gellért Hotel and BathsBudapest is famous for its

numerous thermal baths, and the bestare the indoor and outdoor pools at thelegendary Gellért Hotel (see pp16–17).

5

4

3 9

1

2

8

0

Újlipótváros

Lipótváros

Margitsziget

Belváros

V

Terézváros

Duna (Danube)

Gellérthegy

VÁ

CI

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T E R É Z K ÖR Ú T

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JÁSZAI MARITÉR

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MargaretBridge

ElizabethBridge

ChainBridge

LibertyBridge


10km

7

Statue ParkAlmost all of Hungary’s

Communist-era statues, which hadonce dominated the country’s pub-lic squares, are now displayed at thisbizarre, but endlessly fascinating,open-air museum on the outskirtsof Budapest (see pp32–3).

Budapest’s Top 10

Mátyás ChurchThe coronation church of

the Hungarian kings, with its Romanesque spire toweringabove much of Upper Buda, is

as impressive close up as it is from afar (see pp24–5).

Hungarian National GalleryThe six permanent exhibitions

spread throughout much of Budapest’sRoyal Palace present themost valuable collectionof Hungarian art in the world (seepp20–23).

State Opera HouseBuilt to rival the opera houses of

Vienna and Dresden, Budapest’s sub-lime State Opera House is best viewedwhile taking in one of its world-classperformances (see pp26–7).

Hungarian National MuseumThe Hungarian National Museum

is a treasure trove of exhibits andartifacts from every period ofHungary’s turbulent history (see pp30–31).

• Map J1• V, Kossuth Lajos tér 1–3• 441 49 04• Daily tours in Englishat 10am, noon, 1pm and2pm. Ask at Gate 10,where the tour starts,about other languagetours. Tours are free forEU citizens, but costFt2,300 for all others• Dis. access• www.parlament.hu

In 1846, the Hungarian poet Mihály Vörösmarty wrote with somedesperation that “the motherland has no home”. When Hungaryopened its magnificent Parliament building after decades ofconstruction in 1902, it not only had a home, but one of thefinest Neo-Gothic buildings in Europe. The largest Parliamentbuilding in the world at the time, it stood as a symbol ofHungarian self-confidence in the early 20th century. Designed by Imre Steindl,it is one of Budapest’s defining landmarks, surpassed only by the Royal Palace.

Mid-week at the Reuben H. Fleet Science Center can be crowdedwith school groups; Mondays are more peaceful.

Top 10 Attractions

1 Cross-Danube Vista2 Grand Staircase3 Main Entrance4 Crown Jewels5 Domed Hall6 National Assembly Hall7 Delegation Room8 The Conquest9 Congress Hall0 Presidential Suite

Ceiling of the dome withits Neo-Gothic gilding

Hungarian Parliament

Grand StaircaseSweeping upwards

from the entrance, thesumptuous main staircase(left) has three outstandingceiling frescoes. Theseinclude Károly Lotz’sGlorification of Hungary,depicting allegorical mom-ents in Hungary’s history.

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Crown JewelsSpirited out of Hungary

after World War II, andstored in Fort Knox, USA

till 1978, the CrownJewels – the Crown

of St Stephen(left) and the

Royal Sceptre– are nowkept in theDomed Hall.

The only way to seeall the building’sattractions is to join one of theguided tours thatare available whenParliament is not in session.

Find out ifParliament is insession and book a ticket by calling441 49 04 (Englishspoken).

There is no café onthe premises, butthe EthnographicalMuseum just acrossthe road has a caféin its entrance hall.

Main EntranceInspired by London’s

Houses of Parliament andbuilt with no limitations onmoney, the mainentrance is guarded bytwo huge lions sculpt-ed by Béla Markupand József Somogyi.

Cross-Danube VistaSensational close up,

Hungary’s Parliament isarguably even better fromafar. Set along the banks of the Danube (right), itsspires and symmetry canbe admired from the otherside of the river.

One of a pair of lionsat the main entrance

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Budapest’s Top 10

The limestone used for surfacing the Parliament building begancrumbling soon after it opened, and renovations continue to this day.

Imre SteindlBefore submitting hisentry for the competi-tion to design Hungary’sParliament, Imre Steindlalso submitted designsfor a proposed parlia-ment in Berlin. His planswere rejected, and thewinning entry, of course,was Paul Wallot’sReichstag. Berlin’s losswas Hungary’s gain asSteindl’s vision resultedin a masterpiece. He isremembered by a bust,cast by Alajos Stróbl, onthe main staircase.

The ConquestThe building’s finest

work of art is Munkácsy’sThe Conquest. Originallyintended for theChamber of Commons, itwas rejected as it wasthought to misrepresentthe first contact betweenthe invading Magyars andPannonian tribes – as apeaceful meeting ratherthan a heroic conquest.

Domed HallThe spiritual heart of

the building, the DomedHall (right) was onceused to host joint ses-sions of Parliament. Thehall honours 16 Hunga-rian kings – each of the16 pillars supporting thedome features a statueof a leader (see pp10–11). Today, it is used forofficial ceremonies.

Presidential SuiteHungary’s prime

minister and presidentretain offices here, thoughboth are closed to visi-tors. However, you canadmire their receptionrooms, which house1930s paintings by GezaUdvary and Antal Diosy.

NationalAssembly Hall

The Hungarian LowerHouse (right) is wherethe Parliament sits –take a seat anddream of power. Thebullet hole above thelectern dates from1912, when anassassin attempted to killthe speaker, István Tisza.

Delegation RoomA relic of the Dual

Monarchy (see p70), thiswas where parliamentar-ians met delegates of theministries. Its walls haveartworks by Andor Dudits,while the ceiling paintings,Wisdom and Fortitude,are by Károly Lotz.

Congress HallUnused since 1944,

when Hungary became aunicameral state, theformer Hungarian UpperHouse (below) has a richinterior with a fine paint-ing by Zsigmond Vajda ofthe monk Astrik handingSt Stephen his crown.

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ÁrpádPrince Árpád was chosen as

the leader of the Magyar tribesshortly after they settled on thePannonian plains in 896. TheMagyars migrated from the Uralmountains in present-day Russia.

St StephenSt Stephen

(István) was electedDuke of the Magyarsin AD 997. Headopted Christianitysoon after, and wascrowned king by PopeSylvester II in 1001.

St LadislausHungary’s ruler between

1078 and 1095, Ladislaus foughtsuccessful wars against theTurks and the Cumans andannexed Croatia in 1092.

András IIThe son of King Béla III and

brother of Emeric, András II wascrowned in 1204. He greatlyexpanded the Magyar state east-wards, conquering large swathesof Transylvania and encouragingvast numbers of Magyars to

settle in the region.

Béla IVDefeated by the

Tatars in 1241, BélaIV survived to rebuild

Hungary after theTatars left the country

in ashes a year later. Hispatient rebuilding of the nation

over the next 25 years elevatedhim to greatness.

Louis ICrowned in 1342, Louis the

Great reigned for 40 years,expanding the Magyar kingdomwith victories over Venice andDalmatia between 1357 and1358. In 1370, he formed apolitical union with Poland afterthe death of his uncle, the Polishking Casimir III, and ruled assovereign of the two countriesuntil his death in 1382.

János Hunyadi (Iancu deHunedoara)

János Hunyadi was born to aRomanian family of Vlach nobleswho had long served theHungarian king Sigismund. Agifted commander, János becamethe ruler of Transylvania in 1441,and then Governor of Hungary in

Left Statue of Prince Árpád Right St Stephen (István), the Magyars’ first Christian king

Domed Hall Statues

King Mátyás Corvinus (Matei Corvin)

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The first section of the Parliament to be completed wasthe Domed Hall in 1896. It was used for a special ses-sion of Parliament held during Budapest’s MillenniumCelebrations. The 16-sided dome – which, at 96 m(315 ft), is the same height as that of St Stephen’sBasilica – was designed to convey a sense of ampli-fied space. Each of the 16 pillars supporting the domebears the statue and coat of arms of a significantHungarian ruler. Apart from the ten dignitaries men-tioned above, the six remaining statues represent (in aclockwise direction) Könyves Kálmán, András III, IstvánBáthory, István Bocskai, Gábor Bethlen and Leopold II.

The Domed Hall

1446. He is best rememberedfor defeating the Turks in theBattle of Belgrade in 1456.

Mátyás Corvinus (Matei Corvin)

The second son of János, Mátyáswas born in Cluj-Napoca,Transylvania, and is generallyconsidered to be the greatest ofall Hungarian kings. Crowned in1458 at the age of 15, he was aRenaissance man who valued thesciences, arts and architecture,inviting foreign writers, humanists,musicians and artists to his court.The first Hungarian printing pressand library were founded duringhis 32-year reign.

Charles IIIIn 1687, Hungary finally

succumbed to Austrian domina-tion and renounced its right to

elect its own king. Thereafter, theHabsburgs inherited the throneand Charles VI, the last HolyRoman Emperor of the directHabsburg line, became CharlesVI King of Bohemia as well asCharles III King of Hungary. Hespent much of his reign ensuringthat his daughter, Maria Theresa,would succeed him.

Maria TheresaMaria Theresa acceded to

the throne in 1740, cementingHungary’s position as an integralpart of the Habsburg Empire.Budapest became an imperialcity and the magnificentHabsburg Royal Palace was builtduring her reign. The city alsobecame a centre of CentralEuropean art, second only toVienna. Maria ruled Hungary untilher death in 1780.

Top 10 Dates in theParliament’s History

1 1885 Foundation stonelaid, 12 Oct

2 1896 First session ofParliament, 15 Mar

3 1902 Parliament buildingcompleted

4 1912 Assassin attemptsto shoot speaker, 4 Jun

5 1920 Treaty of Trianonstrips Hungary of a thirdof its territory, 4 Jun

6 1944 Hungary becomesa unicameral Republic

7 1955 Parliament with-draws from the bloc ofSoviet-backed nations

8 1958 Execution of PrimeMinister Imre Nagy, Jun

9 1989 Communists allowmulti-party elections, Oct

0 1990 MPs take theirseats after post-Com-munist elections, 2 May

Budapest’s Top 10

Magnificent ceiling of the Domed Hall

More than worthy of St Stephen (see p34), the Basilicathat carries his name is visible from all over Budapest.Splendidly lit in the evening, it is perhaps the most pho-tographed sight in the city. The dome, at 96 m (315 ft),is the exact height as that of the Parliament, whose builders decided not to gohigher. It was built from 1851 to 1905 in the form of a Greek cross, and is thework of three successive architects – József Hild, Miklós Ybl and József Kauser.


Top 10 Features

1 Dome and Mosaics2 North Tower3 Main Altar4 Main Entrance5 Holy Right Hand6 Main Portal7 St Gellért and St Emeryka8 Treasury9 Gyula Benczúr Painting0 Figures of the 12 Apostles

Statue of St Matthew onthe façade

Every year on StStephen’s Day (20Aug), the Holy RightHand is carried by theBasilica’s priests pastlarge crowds ofpeople who gather infront of the Basilica.Arrive early to wit-ness the spectacle.

A stone’s throw awayfrom the Basilica isDuran’s, a sandwichshop ideal for lunch.It is located about 200 m (656 ft) southof the Basilica, at 7Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út.

• Map L2• V, Szent István tér • 317 28 59• Open Summer:9am–5pm daily; Winter:10am–2pm daily (towerclosed)• Adm: Free (church);Ft250 (treasury); Ft500dome viewing platform• Dis. access

St Stephen’s Basilica

Dome and MosaicsThe Neo-Renaissance

dome was designed byMiklós Ybl in 1867 after theoriginal dome – designed byJózsef Hild – caved in dueto poor workmanship andmaterials. It is decoratedwith mosaics (right) byKároly Lotz. A viewing plat-form above the cupola isreached by a lift and stairs.

North TowerThe 9,144-kg (9-ton) bell

in the North Tower was paidfor by German Catholics,who were ashamed thatthe Nazis had looted theoriginal during their retreatfrom Budapest at the endof World War II. The originalbell was never traced.

Main AltarA life-size marble

statue of St Stephen (KingIstván), by sculptor Alajos

Stróbl, dom-inates the mainaltar (left) of theBasilica. Oneither side, finepaintings by the19th-centuryartist GyulaBenczúr depictscenes from thesaint-king’s life.

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Budapest’s Top 10

The Basilica was seriously damaged during World War II, and majorrenovation between 1983 and 1989 restored it to its former glory.

Organ ConcertsThe Basilica’s organ was made by Angster & Sons of Pécs, andinstalled in 1904. At thetime, it was consideredthe world’s finest. Theorgan was enlarged in1934, and today com-prises no less than5,898 pipes. You canhear it at special organconcerts, which areheld in the Basilica fromtime to time.

Main Entrance“I am the way and

the truth and the life”proclaims the Latininscription above theBasilica’s main entrance.Situated above theinscription are severalstatues of Hungariansaints paying homage to the Virgin Mary andthe infant Jesus.

Holy Right HandThe mummified fore-

arm of St Stephen (right)is displayed in the HolyRight Hand Chapel nearthe main altar. It wastaken to Dubrovnik inCroatia by Béla IV in the13th century to protect itfrom the Tatars. Afterstints in Vienna and atthe Royal Palace in Buda,it was brought here on20 August 1945 – StStephen’s Day.

Figures of the 12 Apostles

The Basilica’s rearcolonnade has 12 superbstatues by Leó Feszlerrepresenting the 12Apostles. Below is a fineNeo-Classical loggia.

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Gyula BenczúrPainting

St Stephen, by GyulaBenczúr (below), is oneof the most importantworks in the Hungarianartistic cannon. It por-trays the king – who diedwithout an heir – prof-fering the care of thecountry and the crown tothe Virgin Mary.

Main PortalThe colossal main

door (above) featurescarvings depicting theheads of the 12 Apostles.Impressive from afar, itis beginning to look alittle worse for wearwhen seen close up.

TreasuryA replica of the holy

Hungarian crown is thecenterpiece of a smallbut splendid collection ofreligious jewellery. Theoriginal crown is nowkept in the HungarianParliament (see pp8–11).Gifts to Hungarian kingsfrom a succession ofpopes are also on display.

St Gellért and St Emeryka

Alajos Stróbl carved thestatue of Bishop StGellért and his pupil, StEmeryka (St Stephen’sson Imre), that stands ina small nave in the centreof the main hall. Oppo-site is another statue – StElizabeth by Károly Senyei.

As with any place

that attracts crowds,

beware of pick-

pockets operating the

length of Váci utca, as

well as attractive

blondes who invite

men for a drink in the

evenings (see p106).

Although Gerbeaud

Cukrászda is the

more famous coffee

house, the Taverna

Hotel’s own coffee

shop is another great

place to unwind. It is

more popular with

locals than its more

famous neighbour.

• Map C5• Gerbeaud Cukrászda: V,Vörösmarty tér 7; 429 9000; www.gerbeaud.hu• Taverna Hotel: Váciutca 20; 485 31 00;www.taverna.hu• Fontana DepartmentStore: Váci utca 16; 26664 00• Thonet House: Váciutca 11• Zsolnay Markabolt: Váciutca 19–21: 266 63 05• Club Verne: Váci utca60; 318 62 74

Váci utca is quite simply the heart and soul ofBudapest. A street in two parts – the southern endfor shopping and the northern end for drinking andeating – it buzzes with life day and night, and actsas the city’s commercial and social hub. Althoughit is cut in half by the access road to ElizabethBridge, only a part of the street’s southern end isopen to traffic. To get a real feel for Budapest,you should stroll down its full length.


Top 10 Attractions

1 Vörösmarty Tér Metro Station2 The Promenade3 Gerbeaud Cukrászda4 Fontana Department Store5 Klotild Palaces6 Thonet House7 Zsolnay Markabolt8 St Michael’s City Church9 Central Market Hall0 Club Verne

Metro station sign

Váci Utca

The PromenadeWalk the full length

of Váci utca (right) fromVörösmarty tér to Vámházkörút and take in theatmosphere, the bustle andthe stunning architectureof the street’s buildings.You won’t be alone duringthe summer, but the crowdsare a part of the appeal.

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GerbeaudCukrászda

This is the most famouscoffee house in Budapest.Since 1858, GerbeaudCukrászda (left) has beenrenowned for its richlydecorated interior andimmaculate service.

Fontana Department Store

The Modernist Fontana Store (right)complements Váci utca’s olderbuildings. Built in the 1980s, itmarked the beginning of a newconsumerist trend and nowhouses outlets such as C&A, aswell as fashion labels, sportsgear, cosmetics and a café.

Vörösmarty TérMetro Station

The tiled walls, woodenbooths and platforms of thisimmaculate 1903 station(above) are a reminder ofwhy underground railwayswere considered glam-orous. The Lilliputian yellowtrains are enchanting too.

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Budapest’s Top 10

Váci UtcaThe name of Budapest’smost famous streetoriginated rather simply.The street was oncethe main road connect-ing Pest to the town ofVác (see p59), 40 km(25 miles) north ofBudapest. The gateleading to Vác used tostand at Váci utca No. 3.

Club VerneVáci utca has lots of

places to eat, drink andwhile away the hours,but none match ClubVerne, an undergroundrestaurant and late-nightbar. Decorated in akitschy style based onthe Jules Verne classic,20,000 Leagues Under theSea, the cocktail menu isone of the city’s best.

Thonet HouseBuilt from 1888 to

1890 by Ödön Lechnerand Gyula Pártos, ThonetHouse once belonged to awealthy family. Zsolnayceramics (above) adornthe walls, while the shopsells exclusive crystal.

Central MarketHall

Budapest’s largest market(above) has innumerablestalls on the ground floorselling fruit, vegetables,fish and cheese. Speciali-ties are spicy kolbász sala-mi and sheep’s cheese.The upper-level stalls selllocal crafts (see p50).

St Michael’sCity Church

First built around 1230,St Michael’s City Church(below) was devastatedby the Turks in 1541,rebuilt in 1701 and thenrenovated between 1964and 1968. Its plain exte-rior belies a rich interior,including a fine gold pul-pit and impressive dome.

KlotildPalaces

Forming a splendidentrance to ElizabethBridge, the twinKlotild Palaces (right)were commissionedby ArchduchessKlotild, daughter-in-law ofEmperor Franz József,and completed in 1902.Much of the buildings’interiors are now occu-pied by shops or used as office space.

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Zsolnay MarkaboltZsolnay ceramics are

famous for their intricacyand quality, and this outletis one of the few placesyou can be sure of findingthe genuine article.

Swimming costumesand towels can behired at the baths, butare expensive and notvery good, so it’s bestto bring your own.

The pricing structureat the Gellért, and allbaths for that matter,is Byzantine to saythe least. Standardentry includes accessto the baths andswimming pool, butnothing else. Youwill, however, receivea refund if you stayless than two hours.Children of all agespay almost full price.

• Map L6• Gellért Hotel: XI, SzentGellért tér 1; 889 55 00;www.danubiushotels.com/gellert• Gellért Baths: XI, Kelen-hegyi út 4; 466 61 66;open Summer: 6am–7pm daily; Winter: 6am–7pm Mon–Fri, 6am–5pm Sat & Sun; admFt2,500 (baths & pool);www.budapestspas.hu• Terrace Restaurant &Café Eszpresszó: a three-course meal for onecosts Ft7,500–10,000

The Gellért Hotel is the finest of all the great bath housesin Budapest. Its main swimming pool is perhaps the bestexample of Neo-Classical architecture in Hungary, and iscertainly the ideal place to enjoy Budapest’s warm ther-apeutic waters. The hotel itself is a fine Secessionist piece, designed by ÁrminHeged√s, Artúr Sebestyén and Izidor Sterk, and built between 1912 and 1918.It was damaged by heavy bombing in World War II and rebuilt in the late 1940s.


Top 10 Features

1 Façade2 Main Entrance Hall3 Main Staircase4 Terrace5 Café Eszpresszó6 Bath Foyers7 Main Swimming Pool8 Outdoor Pools9 Thermal Baths0 Eastern-Style Towers

Outdoor wave pool

Gellért Hotel and Baths

Main Entrance HallWith its elaborate

mosaics, plush carpets andover-the-top statues, thehotel’s entrance hall is aleap into the past. Thestaff are patient and helpfulwith visitors who just wantto admire the scene.

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Main StaircaseThe stained-glass

windows (below) on thestaircase landings weredesigned by Bózó Stanisits.They illustrate a legendabout a magic stag, record-ed in János Arany’s poetry.

FaçadeThe Gellért’s Secession-

era façade (below) reflectsthe self-confidence thatbefits a building construct-ed during the final phase ofthe Habsburg Empire,when Hungary was on theverge of independence.

Stained-glass windowby Bózó Stanisits

Budapest’s Top 10

Healing WatersAlthough Budapest isknown for its baths, fewvisitors realize the majorrole they play in city life,and how much faith thelocals place in the heal-ing properties of theirwaters. For many of thecity’s older residents,the baths remain asimportant as they wereunder the Ottomans,who developed thepotential of Budapest’sastonishing 120-oddthermal springs. Most ofthe city’s thermalwaters are highly sul-phurous, and are said tobe especially effectivein treating rheumatism,arthritis and evenParkinson’s disease.

Eastern-StyleTowers

Although the Gellért isprimarily a Secessionistbuilding, its cylindrical,Eastern-style towers(above) commemoratethe earlier Turkish bathswhich stood on this site.

Café EszpresszóAn old-fashioned

coffee and teahouse witha range of cakes and pas-tries (below). You areserved by liveried wait-resses, and the Viennese-style furniture adds to thesplendour of the place.

Outdoor PoolsDuring the summer,

bathers head to thehotel’s outdoor pools(above) and sun terraces.The main outdoor poolwas one of the first inthe world to have an arti-ficial wave mechanism,which is still in use today.

Bath FoyersThere are three foyers

at the entrance. The cen-tral foyer’s glass roof isthe highlight, but thefloors, walls, statuettesand benches of the othersare all marvellous as well.A small fee entitles you towalk around without actu-ally entering the baths.

Main SwimmingPool

The stunning Neo-Classical main pool (left)is the finest part of theGellért baths. Surroundedby high galleries and mar-ble columns, it is decorat-ed with colourful mosaics.Don’t miss taking a dip, asswimming here is indeeda luxurious experience.

Thermal BathsThe medicinal waters

at this site were firstdiscovered in the 13thcentury during the reignof King András II. Duringthe Middle Ages, a hos-pital was built at thisspot. Today, there is a

seemingly inter-minable networkof thermal bathsat various tem-peratures. Notethat there are sep-arate baths formen and women.

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place to enjoy a heartyand relaxed Sundaybrunch in Budapest than on the well-shaded,first-floor terrace of theGellért Hotel. Thepanoramic views fromhere over the Danubeand the city are simplymagnificent.

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Inhabited since Roman times, Margaret Island(Margitsziget) is a tranquil, green oasis in themiddle of the Danube. It is named after PrincessMargit (Margaret), daughter of King Béla IV, whospent most of her life in the island’s former con-vent in the 13th century. It was a popular huntingground for medieval kings, and monks were alsodrawn to its peace and quiet. The island hasserved as Budapest’s playground since 1869 andis still the perfect escape from the city.

Top 10 Attractions1 Dominican Church2 Japanese Garden3 Centenary Monument4 Franciscan Church5 Palatinus Strand6 Water Tower7 St Michael’s Church8 Bodor Well9 Danubius Grand Hotel

Margitsziget0 Horse-Drawn Carriage Rides

Margaret Island

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Franciscan ChurchThe ruins of the 14th-

century Franciscan church(below) lie secluded in theisland’s centre. Thoughthere is little left to admire,it still has a fine archedwindow and a staircase.

Relaxing in a park onMargaret Island

The easiest way toget to MargaretIsland is by bus No. 26 from NyugatiStation. However,the most enjoyableway is by boat.There are irregularferries from Vigadótér to Esztergom andVisegrád throughoutthe summer, whichstop at MargaretIsland. Check thetimetable at Vigadótér for more details.

For lunch on theisland, head toPalatinus Strand fordoughnuts and hotdogs. For a moreformal meal, visitthe Danubius GrandHotel Margitsziget.

CentenaryMonument

The Modernist CentenaryMonument (above) wasraised in 1973 to commem-orate the unification ofBuda, Óbuda and Pest toform Budapest in 1873.

Dominican ChurchOne of the island’s

most important monumentsis the ruin of a 13th-centuryDominican convent. It wasfounded by Béla IV, whosedaughter Margit came tolive here in 1251. A plaquein the church marks thespot where she is buried.

Japanese GardenThe most delightful of

the island’s landscapedgardens is the Japanese gar-den (right) at the northernend. It has a wide varietyof flowers as well as rockgardens and waterfalls.

• Map B1• Margaret Island(Margitsziget):Budapest XIII

Traffic is not allowed beyond the Danubius Grand Hotel and ThermalHotel Margitsziget, so hire a four-seater bicycle from a rental kiosk.

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Budapest’s Top 10

The island is very popular with joggers and is a great place to comefor a run. There are several cafés selling drinks and snacks en route.

Princess Margit(Margaret) After the horrors of theMongol invasion andsubsequent destructionof Budapest from 1241to 1242, a desperateKing Béla IV offered togive his daughter to God,if in return, He wouldensure that the Mongolsnever returned. In 1251,Béla sent his nine-year-old daughter Margit tothe island’s convent,where she stayed forthe rest of her life. TheMongols never returned.

Bodor WellThe unusual musical

Bodor Well (left) is, infact, a copy of a long des-troyed well, built in 1820in Târgu Mures, Romania.This copy dates from1936, and plays recordedmusic on the hour.

Horse-DrawnCarriage Rides

You can see the island inimperial style by taking acarriage ride (above). Last-ing about an hour, therides start from the north-ern end of the island,opposite the hotels.

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St Michael’sChurch

The oldest building onthe island, St Michael’sChurch (below) wasfounded in the 11thcentury, but was devas-tated by the Turks in1541. What you seetoday is a 1930s recon-struction, using materialsfrom the original building.

PalatinusStrand

Opened in 1919, thecity’s largest outdoorpool complex (right)buzzes from dawn todusk, as people enjoythe therapeutic waterspumped from the island’sthermal springs (see p37).

Danubius GrandHotel Margitsziget

This legendary hoteldesigned by Miklós Yblopened in 1872. Foryears, it was the mostfashionable in the city,attracting aristocracy fromall over Europe. Today, it has been joined by asister spa (see p113).

Water TowerThe UNESCO-

protected Water Tower(below) was built in 1911to supply fresh water tothe Danubius Grand HotelMargitsziget. It stands 57 m (187 ft) high and agallery offers panoramicviews of the entire island.

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Nowhere in Budapest is there more treasure than at the Hungarian NationalGallery, housed in a building which is itself very much part of the city’s heri-tage. Established in 1957, when a large section of the Royal Palace was givenover to it, the Gallery displays art from medieval times to the present day andcomprises six permanent exhibitions which present the cream of Hungariancreative arts. The museum is especially strong in its portrayal of the Secession,the 19th-century movement that pushed boundaries and fused genres (see p23).


Top 10 Attractions

1 Main Entrance2 The Visitation3 Recapture of Buda Castle 4 Picnic in May5 Women of Eger6 Great Throne Room 7 Habsburg Crypt8 The Yawning Apprentice9 Birdsong0 Woman Bathing

Hungarian National Gallery

Recapture of Buda Castle

Gyula Benczúr painted thisfor the 1896 Millennium Cel-ebrations. It was intendedto emphasize the necessityof Austro-Hungarian rule byshowing that Hungary wasonly freed from Turkish suz-erainty due to Karl of Lothar-ingia and Eugene of Savoy.

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National Gallery façade

To see the very bestof the museum, joina guided tour thatincludes the base-ment level HabsburgCrypt. Tours are inseveral languages,though you mayhave to wait for alarge enough num-ber of people toassemble before one begins.

The Gallery can bevery crowded in themorning and earlyafternoon. Plan yourvisit for after 3pm,by which time thequeues of the morn-ing have vanished.

Having admired theGallery’s manyglories, take a walkinto the CastleDistrict for a refresh-ment at one of thenumerous restau-rants and cafés.

The VisitationNothing is known

about the life of MasterMS, the most importantrepresentative of lateGothic painting in Hungary.This painting (below) is thebest of his works, depictingthe meeting of the VirginMary and St Elizabeth.

• Map H4• Buda Castle, RoyalPalace, B, C, D wings• 439 73 25• Open 10am–6pmTue–Sun

Main EntranceA part of the 18th-

century Maria TheresaPalace, the museum’sNeo-Classical façade hasGermanic influences.

Many of the works on display were exhibited at the National Museumand the Museum of Fine Arts before the Gallery opened in 1957.

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MihályMunkácsyRegarded as Hungary’sfinest artist, MihályMunkácsy began hiscareer making finishedwoodwork. After com-pleting his first majorpainting in 1867, whenhe was just 23, hemoved to Paris, wherehe painted a series ofmasterpieces includingThe Churning Womanand Woman CarryingBrushwood, both nowin the National Gallery.He died in 1900 at theage of 55 in Paris.

BirdsongKároly Ferenczy was

one of Hungary’s finestartists of the late 19th–early 20th centuries. Thesoft Birdsong (above),painted in 1893 while hewas in Munich, is one ofhis best. The latter part ofhis life was spent depict-ing homo-erotic imagesof young men and boys.

Habsburg CryptThis Crypt, with the

exquisite sarcophagus ofPalatine Archduke Joseph,is a Neo-Classical warrenof black and white marbleand gold leaf. It can onlybe seen on a guided tour.

The YawningApprentice

The Yawning Apprentice(1867) was the firstrenowned work by MihályMunkácsy, Hungary’s fin-est Realist. It is matchlessin its extraordinary detail.

WomanBathing

Nudes were a specialityof Károly Lotz, whopainted this particularlysensuous figure (right) in1901. A fine example ofNeo-Classical painting, itevokes the style of theFrench artist, Ingres. Lotzis also known for themurals in the HungarianParliament (see pp8–11).

Picnic in MayPainted from

memory in 1873 byPál Szinyei-Merse,Picnic in May (right)evokes the FrenchImpressionists. Thefigure lying with hisback towards us isthe artist himself.

Women of EgerBesides his fine

portrait work, BertalanSzékely painted a num-ber of historical worksfeaturing simple, heroicfemale figures in aromantic style. Womenof Eger (1867), portraysthe women of the towndefending Eger Castleagainst the Turks.

Munkácsy also painted two monumental works – The Conquest (seep9) and a fresco, Apotheosis of Renaissance, for a museum in Vienna.

Great Throne RoomAn entire room of the Gallery is devoted

to 15th- and 16th-century Gothic altarpieces.The best are the ones of St Anne and St Johnthe Baptist (1520) from a church inKisszeben (Sabinov, in present-day Slovakia).

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Lady in RedJózsef Rippl-Rónai

(1861–1927) was one of thethree most important artists ofthe Secession Movement. Hestudied for several years in Paris,at a time when the Art Nouveaumovement was thriving. His mas-terpiece Lady in Red (1896), alsoknown as The Woman in Polka

Dots, depicts the somewhataffected pose of a model whowas apparently caught by sur-prise. It was the first Secession-style painting in Hungary.

Girl with a BirdcageAn early painting by Rippl-

Rónai, Girl with a Birdcage

(1892) is renowned for itsmarvellous use of contrast –note the white of the girl’shands compared to the blurred,dark background. The slightly

contrived pose of the modelholding the cage is a trademarkof the artist.

The Manor House at Körtyvélyes

Rippl-Rónai visited Italy in 1904and was fascinated by the deco-rative mosaics he saw in manyhomes. This work from 1907 anti-cipates his shift from soft brush-work to more forthright strokes,which would culminate in thebold paintings of his later years.

Girls Getting DressedCompleted in 1912, this is a

late Rippl-Rónai work that showsthe progression of Secessionistpainting as the brushstrokesbecame bolder and the coloursbrighter. The somewhat awkwardpose of the girl on the left betraysthe artist’s penchant for playingwith the viewer’s perception.

The Golden AgeThe second of the great

Secessionist triumvirate, JánosVaszary (1867–1939) oscillatedbetween Art Nouveau and Post-Impressionism. His best paintingis probably this 1898 ArtNouveau rendition of a nostalgicyearning for a lost paradise.

Fancy Dress BallVaszary’s brightly coloured

1907 portrayal of Budapestsociety has a touch of decadence.Notice the gentleman’s leeringexpression and the licentiouspose of the object of his affection.

Left Detail of János Vaszary’s The Golden Age Right Hungarian National Gallery façade

Secession Works in the Gallery

Girl with a Birdcage by Rippl-Rónai

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From its quiet beginnings among avant-garde artistsin Vienna in the late 1880s, until it gave way to ArtDeco in the 1920s, the Secession Movement was a coherent attempt to break away from the romantichistoricism of 19th-century art. It tried to find newforms of inspiration from the distant past, especiallyin the bold colours of Transylvanian folk art. Oftencharacterized by fantastical designs, bright coloursand stylized forms, the movement repossessed artfrom the clutches of nationalists, restoring the notionof art for art’s sake. The movement encompassed allforms of the decorative and visual arts, from paintingto sculpture and ceramics to interior design. It is

perhaps best seen in the paintings thatadorn the walls ofthe HungarianNational Gallery, thebeautiful Zsolnayceramics seen allover the city and,above all, in thearchitecture of the day.

The Secession

Breakfast in the Open Air

This painting by Vaszary makesfabulous use of light and colour.At first glance, it seems to be asympathetic depiction ofBudapest society. Yet theindifference of the girl’s parentstowards her behaviour could beinterpreted as a criticism ofsocietal values at the time.

Riders in the Park Dating from 1919, this is

another fine example of lateSecessionist painting by Vaszary,with sharp brush strokes andhigh contrast colours. Theinfluence of Matisse, whom heknew from his sojourns in Paris,is clearly visible in this work.

MagicLajos Gulácsy (1882–1932),

the youngest of the famousSecessionist trio, was a self-taught exponent of quasi-Surrealist art. His work Magic

(1906) depicts an insecure malebeing reassured by a strongwoman. Gulácsy himself washopelessly insecure, and spentmuch of his later life in variouspsychiatric institutions.

Self Portrait with HatLajos Gulácsy’s Self Portrait

with Hat (1912) reinforces hisrather detached view of theworld and perhaps his lack ofbelief in his own abilities. In thepainting, his face wears an anx-ious and vulnerable expression.

Top 10 SecessionistBuildings

1 Gresham Palace FourSeasons Hotel (Map K3)

2 Gellért Hotel (Map L6)

3 Museum of Applied Arts(Map D5)

4 Geology Institute (Map

P2)

5 Hungarian National Bank(Map K2)

6 Post Office SavingsBank (Map L2)

7 Városliget CalvinistChurch (Map E3)

8 Franz Liszt Academy ofMusic (Map D3)

9 New York Palace (Map E4)

0 New Theatre (Map M2)

Left Zsolnay tiles on the roof of the Geology Institute Right Museum of Applied Arts

Budapest’s Top 10

A programme givingtimes and dates of allupcoming classicalconcerts, held two orthree evenings aweek during thesummer, is availableat the main entranceto the church.

Just across the squarein front of the churchand a short walkalong Szentháromságutca, is Ruszwurm,one of Budapest’smost historic cafés(see p66).

• Map H2• I, Szentháromság tér 2• 355 56 57• Open 9am–5pmMon–Fri, 9am–noon Sat,1–5pm Sun • Adm Ft600• Dis. access• www.matyas-templom.hu

The profusion of architectural styles in Mátyás Church betraysboth the building’s and the city’s troubled history. After theoriginal church was destroyed in 1241, a new church, part ofBéla IV’s fortified city, was built from 1255 to 1269. Much of this Gothic build-ing remains, though it was Mátyás Corvinus, after whom the church is named,who expanded it in the 15th century. The final phase of restoration took placefrom 1873 to 1896, when Frigyes Schulek redesigned it in the Neo-Baroque style.


Top 10 Features

1 Béla Tower2 Hidden Images of King Louis3 Mary Portal4 Stained-Glass Windows5 Loreto Chapel and Baroque

Madonna6 Sunday Mass7 Tomb of King Béla III and

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Béla Tower, Mátyás Church

Mátyás Church

Béla TowerNamed after Béla IV,

the stout Béla Tower retainsa number of its originalGothic features, though thespire and turrets are recon-structions. Note how thetower is the least embel-lished part of the church.

Hidden Images ofKing Louis

While entering the churchthrough the main portal, turnaround and look up to seeimages of King Louis theGreat and his wife onthe uppermost pillarbeside the portal(above). Thesesculpturesdate from the14th century.

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Rose window

St Stephen first raised a church here around 1015, though that earlychurch, known as St Mary’s, was destroyed by the Tatars in 1241.

Central nave, Mátyás Church

Mary PortalThe Assumption of

the Blessed Virgin Mary is the finest example ofGothic stone carving in

Hungary. Frigyes Schulekreconstructed the por-

tal (left) in the 19thcentury, using

surviving frag-ments of theoriginal building.

25Much of the church’s original details were lost when it wasturned into the Great Mosque by the Turks in 1541.

King MátyásOne of the greatestfigures in Hungarianhistory, King Mátyás isoften claimed by bothRomanians and Serbsas being one of theirown. What’s certain isthat Matei Corvin, as heis known in Romania,was born in Cluj-Napoca,in present-day Romania.He was the son ofJános Hunyadi, who inturn was the grandsonof native Serbs. His fam-ily origins remain one ofthe main causes of ten-sion between Hungarianand Romanian histo-rians (see p11).

Loreto Chapeland Baroque

MadonnaLegend has it that in1686, the Madonna(right) appearedbefore the Turksdefending BudaCastle, who saw itas a sign of imminentdefeat. Habsburgtroops took the cas-tle that very night.

RoofThe splendid multi-

coloured tiled roof (above)is a recent addition, builtbetween 1950 and 1970.The original roof, a plainaffair, burnt down afterSoviet shelling during thesiege of Buda in 1944–5.

Rose WindowThe Neo-Gothic Rose

Window above the MainPortal was recreated byFrigyes Schulek after heunearthed fragments ofthe original during therestoration of the church.The original had beenbricked up during theBaroque period.

Sunday MassThe church’s two

1909 Rieger organs,restored in 1984, are thefinest in Hungary. SundayMass, held at 10am,features the organs andthe church’s choir. Atraditional centre of spir-itual music, the churchalso plays host to morethan 100 concerts a year.

AltarThe early

Gothic-style altar(above) features areplica of the holyHungarian crownatop a statue ofthe Virgin Mary. A shrine to the

Madonna, it wasdesigned by FrigyesSchulek and com-pleted in 1893.

Stained-GlassWindows

Designed by FrigyesSchulek and painted byKároly Lotz, the three win-dows on the church’ssouthern side depict theVirgin Mary’s life, the fam-ily of Béla IV and the life ofSt Elizabeth of Árpádház,who married at 13, divor-ced at 19 and died at 24.

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Tomb of KingBéla III and Anne

de ChâtillonFrigyes Schulek designedthis elaborate tomb(above) after the mortalremains of Béla III andhis first wife had beenfound during excavationsat SzékesfehérvárCathedral in 1862.

Admire the façade,the main entranceand the foyerthroughout the day,as the ticket office isopen daily from 11amto 5pm. To see therest of the building,you will either needto attend an opera orjoin a guided tour,available in English,Hungarian, German,Spanish, Serbo-Croat,Dutch and Italian.

Concert tickets areusually cheap, assubsidies keep priceslow (see p109).

Opposite the OperaHouse, at 8 Dalszínházutca, is the good-value Belcanto Italianrestaurant (see p79),famous for it waiters,who occasionallybreak into song.

• Map M2• VI, Andrássy út 22• State Opera House:331 25 50; Box office:353 01 70• Guided tours at 3pmand 4pm daily, Ft2,400• Dis. access• www.opera.hu

Nowhere in Budapest is the ancien regime as alive and wellas at the State Opera House, architect Miklós Ybl’s magnumopus. A Neo-Renaissance masterpiece built in 1884, whenmoney was simply not an issue, its interior is a study inopulence and grandeur. A rival to any opera house inthe world, its roll-call of musical directors reads like a who’s who of Central European music – Ferenc Erkel, Gustav Mahler, Otto Klemperer, among others.


Top 10 Features

1 Façade2 Main Entrance3 Statues of Liszt and Erkel4 Foyer5 Foyer Murals6 Main Staircase7 Chandelier8 Main Stage9 Royal Box0 Museum

Main stage, Opera House

State Opera House

FaçadeThe passage of time

has been kind to Andrássyút, and the State OperaHouse is not as hemmedin as many of the city’sother significantbuildings. While inno way unique, thefaçade (above),made of colon-nades, balconiesand loggias, isimpressive.

MainEntrance

Stand under the StateOpera House’s sublimeentrance with its muraledceilings, and you will imme-diately wish you were partof 19th-century Budapestsociety, stepping out of ahorse-drawn carriage toattend a premiere.

Statues of Lisztand Erkel

The busts of Hungary’stwo greatest composers –

Liszt (left) and Erkel –stand guard on eitherside of the entrance.Both were sculpted

by Alajos Stróbl, whowas responsible for

much of the build-ing’s interior design.

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FoyerThe foyer is a

wonderful riot of murals,columns, chandeliers andgilded vaulted ceilings.Ostentation to rival Vienna was the order ofthe day, and Ybl did notdisappoint his patrons.

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Lamp with putti

27Check The Budapest Times (see p105) for opera schedules.

Bánk BánHungary’s most famousopera, Bánk Bán, waswritten by Ferenc Erkeland premiered in 1861.The story begins withOtto, brother of AndrásII, who plans to seducethe wife of a faithfulHungarian viceroy, BánkBán. The knight Biberachtells Bán of Otto’s das-tardly scheme, and Bándecides to join a rebel-lion against the court.Rarely performed today,it was turned into a filmby Csaba Kael in 2001.

Foyer MuralsPainted by Bertalan Székely and Mór

Than, the foyer’s sensational murals (above)cover the entire ceiling and depict the nineMuses and other allegorical scenes.

MuseumThe museum (above)

houses memorabilia offamous performers whohave graced this stage.Sándor Svéd, a renownedHungarian baritone, whoperformed at New York’sMetropolitan for years,features prominently.

Royal BoxYbl always insisted

that the Royal Box washis finest achievement.Decorated with sculp-tures symbolizing the fouroperatic voices – soprano,alto, tenor and bass – it isin the centre of a circle ofthree-tiered boxes.

Main StageDuring the building

of the Opera, the ViennaRing Theatre was des-troyed by fire. As a safetymeasure, an iron safetycurtain, all-metal stagehydraulics and a sprinklersystem were installed,making the HungarianOpera the most moderntheatre in the world.

ChandelierAbove the auditorium,

a 2,722-kg (3-ton) Mainzchandelier (above) illumi-nates a magnificentfresco by Károly Lotz ofthe Greek gods on Olym-pus. The chimney aboveit facilitates ventilation.

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Main StaircaseA red carpet covers

the marble stairs (below)beneath a huge chandelierin another of the StateOpera House’s classic setpieces. The gilded panelsof the ceiling containnine paintings by Than,showing the awakeningand triumph of music.

Since its founding in 1802, Budapest’s mostfascinating museum has been home to Hungary’sfinest collection of art, artifacts, photographs anddocuments relating to the country’s troubledhistory. The building that houses the collection isa timeless piece of Neo-Classical architecturedesigned by Mihály Pollack, while the impressiveinterior has frescoes by Károly Lotz and Mór Than.

Top 10 Features

1 Museum Steps2 Coronation Mantle3 Diadem4 Golden Stag5 Funeral Crown6 Byzantine Crown7 Sundial8 Processional Crucifix9 Throne Carpet0 Campaigning in Front of the

National Museum

Hungarian National Museum

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Museum StepsHistory was made here

(above) in 1848, whenSándor Petπfi recitedhis poem NemzetiDal (National Song)and the 12 pont(12 points),which led toan uprisingagainst theHabsburgs. Theevent is commemo-rated each year.

FuneralCrown

Found in MargaretIsland’s Dominican churchin 1838, this golden crown(below) dates from the 13thcentury and was worn by afemale member of an Árpádfamily on her deathbed.

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figures of Christ and theApostles (below) was given to a church in Székesfehér-vár by St Stephen in 1031.It later became a coronationcoat for the Árpád kings.

Previous pages: State Opera House

Golden StagA hand-forged figure

from the 6th century BC, theGolden Stag was part of aScythian prince’s shield. It isin almost flawless condition.

DiademDating from the Hun

period in the 5th centuryAD, the stunning golddiadem is the most ancientof its kind. It was found inCsorna and is studded with158 precious stones.

The HungarianNational Museum isset on three levels.The basement dis-plays Roman mosaics,the first floor is hometo exhibits from the5th century BC to theMiddle Ages, and thesecond floor housesexhibits from the12th century to thepresent day.

The famous MúzeumKávéház és Étterem(see p87), locatednext to the NationalMuseum, is the per-fect place to relaxwith a cup of coffeeafter viewing themuseum’s collection.

• Map M5• VIII, Múzeum körút14–16• 338 21 22• Open 10am–6pmTue–Sun• Dis. access• www.mnm.hu

Façade, National Museum

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Ferenc and IstvánSzéchenyiIt is uncertain whetherthe National Museumwould have existed at allwithout the vast collec-tion of art and artifactsdonated in 1802 byCount Ferenc Széchenyi,who also established theNational Library. Hisequally illustrious son,Count István Széchenyi,is regarded as one ofthe greatest Hungarians.An aristocratic polymath,István wrote severaltreatises for the uplift-ment of peasants,advocated land reform,dabbled in revolutionarypolitics and even paid forthe country’s first rail-way, from Pest to Vác.

Byzantine CrownThe exquisitely

crafted Byzantine crownis of particular value, as itis made of gold leaf thatdates back to between1042 and 1050. The goldleaf is decorated withallegories of the Great

Virtues, which were popular in

Byzantine art.

Budapest’s Top 10Processional

CrucifixThe use of crucifixes onaltars became widespreadin the Western Church inthe 12th century. This cru-cifix (left) from Szerecsenydates from that period. Asimilar piece lies in theSt Stephen Museum inSzékesfehérvár; the twoare likely to have beenmade in the same work-shop. In Hungary, manysuch crucifixes werefound in churchesdestroyed during theTatar invasion in 1222.

SundialPocket sundials

(right) were excellenttools for navigation aswell as timekeeping. Withthe help of a mooncalendar at the back, itwas possible to countthe number of moonlithours in a day.

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Throne CarpetMade in Florence

during the Renais-sance at the

request of KingMátyás, the throne

carpet (below) carriesthe coat of arms of

Mátyás, Hungary andDalmatia, and the raven

of the Hunyadi family.This is the only one of itskind remaining in Hungary.

Campaigning inFront of the

National MuseumAs the title suggests, thispre-Secession painting byFriedrich Weiss depictsthe political campaigningof reformists and conser-vatives between 1847and 1848. It illustratesthe fact that art forms in that period tended todepict great events.

The museum is undergoing reconstruction for the next couple ofyears, so look out for unannounced closures and gallery changes.

Statue Park is a 20-minute drive fromCentral Pest. Thereare direct buses fromDeák ter at 11am and3pm daily, with extrabuses at 10am and4pm during July andAugust. A combinedbus and entranceticket costs Ft2,450,and can be purchasedfrom the specialStatue Park kiosk.

• Map N3• XXII, south Buda,corner of Balatoni út and Szabadkai utca• 424 75 00• Open 10am–dusk daily• Adm Ft600• www.szoborpark.hu

A visit to Statue Park takes you back in time to an age when the Communistsruled half of Europe and artists had to conform to the whims of a committee.The result was some of the most striking sculpture of the 20th century, preservedin a bizarre theme park. While most of the Soviet bloc destroyed its socialist stat-uary after the fall of the Communist regime, the Hungarians decided to preservethese works of art, which had stood in the country’s public squares until 1989.

Top 10 Attractions

1 Main Entrance2 Karl Marx and

Frederick Engels3 Béla Kun Memorial4 Hungarian-Soviet

Friendship Memorial5 Republic of Councils

Monument6 Captain Steinmetz7 Lenin 8 Georgi Dimitrov9 Worker’s Movement Memorial0 Souvenir Shop

Statue of Lenin at entrance

Statue Park

Main EntranceAlthough the Iron

Curtain is a thing of thepast, the austere wall thatsurrounds Statue Park is areminder of how divisive itused to be. The archwayon the left-hand side of themain entrance (above)shelters a statue of Lenin.

Karl Marx andFrederick Engels

The authors of theCommunist Manifesto standnext to each other (right)under a large arch on theright-hand side of theentrance. Note how Engelsis slightly behind – and inthe shadow of – Marx,reflecting his role in life asthe younger of the two.

Béla Kun MemorialIn 1919, the Hungarian

Communist Béla Kun brieflyran the country, but wasoverthrown by AdmiralHorthy. He fled to Russiaand died in Stalin’s purges.

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Ákos EleπdThe layout of StatuePark is not haphazard.In fact, it was carefullydesigned and plannedby the architect ÁkosEleπd, who wished tocreate an “anti-prop-aganda” theme park. As he explained in hisown words: “it may bea park dedicated todictatorship, but the factit is here, that it can betalked about and dis-cussed implies that it isalso a park aboutdemocracy.”

Hungarian-SovietFriendship

MemorialThere was never muchamity between the SovietUnion, viewed as an occu-pying force, and Hungary,but this statue (right) of aHungarian worker greetinga Red Army soldier wouldlike us to think otherwise.

Souvenir ShopYou could spend a

fortune in this capitalistshrine to Communism,which sells mementosfrom all over the Sovietbloc, including repro-duction Soviet armywatches, Trabant keyringsand CDs of rousingCommunist anthems.

Worker’s Move-ment Memorial

This sculpture of twolarge hands about to claspa globe (below) symbol-izes the working classesbeing on the verge ofgrasping the world intheir hands and creatinga utopian paradise.

Budapest’s Top 10

Captain SteinmetzIn 1945, Captain Miklos

Steinmetz (right) was sentby the Russian army to offerterms of surrender to theNazis. The Germans, how-ever, curtly dismissed him,and he was killed whilereturning to Soviet lines.

Georgi Dimitrov is perhaps better known as the person who wasimprisoned by Hitler for burning down the Reichstag in 1933.

LeninThere are three Lenin

statues in the park. Theone of him clutching theManifesto in one hand isthe most resonant.

Hungarian Fighters, Spanish International Brigades Memorial

Republic ofCouncils

MonumentThis massive, 10-m (30-ft)high statue almost makesyou want to leap up andlaunch your own revo-lution. It was designed tocall the working classesto arms in order todefend Hungary againstforeign aggressors.

Georgi DimitrovThe park features

two statues of GeorgiDimitrov, leader of theBulgarian CommunistParty from 1945 to 1949.

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Moments in History

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AD 409: Huns ConquerAquincum

Established in the area that nowlies on the city’s northern periph-ery, Aquincum (see p95) was animportant town and military garri-son in the Roman province ofPannonia. It was conquered bythe Huns in 409, and subse-quently ruled by the Goths, theLongobards and the Avars.

896: Árpád Leads theMagyars into Pannonia

Prince Árpád led the nomadicMagyars – tribes whooriginated in the Uralsand inhabited an areaeast of the River Tisza –into Pannonia in 896. Hesettled first on CsepelIsland, in the middle ofthe Danube in southernBudapest, and later inÓbuda (meaning AncientBuda in Hungarian).

1000: Stephen ICrowned King

Stephen (István) wasthe first Magyar toaccept Christianity, and for doingso, the pope crowned him king.He cemented the Árpád dynasty,which lasted a further 300 years.

1687: The Beginning ofthe Age of the Habsburgs

The Habsburgs became rulers ofHungary more by stealth thanconquest. They completed theirtakeover in 1687, when theHungarians gave up their right to

elect their king, and ceded thecrown to the Habsburg Empire.In one guise or another, theyruled Hungary until 1918.

1849: Chain Bridge LinksBuda and Pest

The first permanent bridge overthe Danube, the Chain Bridge wasdesigned by the EnglishmanWilliam Tierney Clark, and builtby a Scotsman, Adam Clark. Itscompletion in 1849 allowed theunification of Buda, Óbuda andPest some 20 years later.

1916: Charles IVCrowned Last

King of HungaryOn the death ofEmperor Franz Józsefin 1916, Charles IV wascrowned king ofHungary. He abdicatedin November 1918, anddespite attempting toregain the throne in1919 after the defeat ofBéla Kun’s Communists,he was exiled toMadeira, Portugal,

where he died in 1922.

1944: The BudapestGhetto

In 1944, the Nazi regime and theirHungarian allies, the Arrow Cross,herded over 70,000 Jews into thearea around the Great Synagogue(see p84). Though well over20,000 Jews perished, 50,000survived and were liberated by theSoviet army in February 1945.

Left Magyar invasion Centre Budapest ghetto Right Hungary becomes a republic, 1989

Emperor Franz József I(1830–1916)

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Budapest’s Top 10

Begun among artists in Paris and Vienna in the 1880s, the SecessionMovement’s hallmark was its colourful, often fantastical designs.

Top 10 GreatHungarians

Ödön Lechner(1845–1914)

Groundbreaking Secessionistarchitect, often considered asthe father of the SecessionMovement (see p23).

Sándor Petπfi(1823–49)

Nationalist poet whose recitalof his poem Nemzeti Dal(National Song) and the 12 pont(12 points) on the steps of theNational Museum in 1848sparked a revolt (see p30).

János Vaszary(1867–1939)

Leading exponent ofSecessionist painting, whoseworks can be seen at theNational Gallery (see pp20–23).

Ferenc (Franz) Liszt(1811–86)

Hungarian composer,regarded by many as the best pianist of all time.

István Szabó (b. 1938)Film director who received

an Oscar for his film Mephistoin 1981.

László Bíró(1899–1985)

Eccentric journalist who invent-ed the world’s first ball-pointpen in 1939.

Ferenc Puskás (b. 1927)Footballer who led the

great Hungarian team of the1950s (see p96).

Miklós Ybl (1814–91)Architect whose work

includes the peerless StateOpera House (see pp26–7).

Mihály Vörösmarty(1800–55)

19th-century poet and authorof the epic The Flight of Zalán.

Attila József (1905–37)Radical poet who wrote of

hope and great beauty.

1956: The HungarianUprising

Following mass anti-Sovietdemonstrations in October 1956,the Hungarian Communist Party’sCentral Committee elected thepopular Imre Nagy as prime min-ister. On 4 November, however,just 18 days after he assumedoffice, the Soviet army invadedHungary and crushed the newregime. Nagy was arrested andexecuted in 1958.

1989: The People’sRepublic Comes to a

Peaceful EndAnticipating the changes thatwould eventually sweep thewhole of Eastern Europe, Com-munist authorities in Hungarysanctioned the creation of oppo-sition political parties in February1989. The People’s Republic ofHungary became the Republic ofHungary in October, and inJanuary 1990, free elections wereheld for the first time since 1919.

2004: Hungary Joins theEuropean Union

After ten years of negotiations,Hungary became a full memberof the European Union on 1 June2004. The occasion was markedwith days of celebrationsthroughout the country, and wasgreeted positively by most of thepopulation. Hungary had pre-viously become a member ofNATO in 1999.

Celebrating EU membership on Chain Bridge

36

Exterior of the Széchenyi Baths, the biggest bathing complex in Europe

Baths and Swimming Pools

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Gellért Hotel and BathsOf all Budapest’s many

baths, the finest are those at thesplendid Gellért Hotel, open tonon-residents every day of theyear. The outdoor pools featureone of the world’s first artificialwave machines (see pp16–17).

Széchenyi BathsSet in a stunning Secession

building in Városliget Park, theSzéchenyi Baths offer a full rangeof thermal water treatments. Thecomplex has a number of outdoorand indoor pools (see p89).

Rudas BathsRenovated in 2005, the Rudas

Baths nevertheless retain theircharm. Among the oldest in thecity, they were built in an opulentstyle – complete with an Orientalcupola – by the Turks in the 16thcentury. d Map K5 • I, Döbrentei tér 9• 356 13 22 • Open 6am–7pm daily • Adm Ft1,500 • www.budapestspas.hu

Lukács BathsOpened in 1894, the Neo-

Classical Lukács Baths offer twooutdoor swimming pools which

are always packed duringsummer, and a large indoorthermal pool. Mud baths are alsoavailable. d Map B2 • II, Frankel Leóút 25–9 • 326 16 95 • Open 6am–7pmMon–Fri, 6am–5pm Sat & Sun • AdmFt1,700 • www.budapestspas.hu

Király BathsAnother of the city’s original

Turkish baths, the Király Bathsopened in 1566 for Pasha Arslan,an Ottoman governor. The pools,steam rooms and saunas arecentred on a sensational centraldome and octagonal pool. d Map B3 • II, Fπ utca 82–4 • 201 43 92 • Open 7am–6pm Mon, Wed, Fri (womenonly), 9am–8pm Tue, Thu, Sat (men only)• Adm Ft1,100 • www.budapestspas.hu

Hajós Alfréd PoolDesigned by Hajós Alfréd,

who represented Hungary at the1896 Olympic Games in swim-ming and football, the threesports pools (including anOlympic-size one) are still usedby the Hungarian swimming teamfor training. d Map B1 • XIII, MargaretIsland • 450 42 00 • Open 6am–4pm daily• Adm Ft3,000

Indoor pool at the Gellért Baths

Ottoman domes at the Király Baths

Most of Budapest’s baths have separate bathing areas for men and women, a tradition dating back to the time the Turks built them.

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Top 10 Bath TipsEtiquetteMany of the more

traditional baths still insist onseparate pools for men andwomen. In such cases, swim-ming costumes are not worn.

PaymentThe price list, posted in

Hungarian, German andEnglish at the entrance to allthe baths, usually runs toseveral pages. Basic entrance,valid for up to four hours, isusually all you will need.

TowelsBring your own. Towels

can be hired, but are expen-sive and not altogether soft.

BathrobesIn single-sex baths, you

will be handed a small sheetas a matter of course.

Lockers Most baths have secure

lockers where you can leavevaluables for a small fee.

Water TemperatureIn all baths, the

temperature of the water isclearly displayed by the sideof the pool.

Steam RoomsEntrance to the steam

room – where there is one –is usually included in thestandard entrance fee.

MassageAlmost all baths and

pools offer various forms of massage at extra cost.

Wave PoolsSzéchenyi, Gellért, Dagály

and Palatinus Strand all haveartificial wave machines.

Family BathingChildren are welcome in

all the city’s baths. Note,though, that families wishingto bathe together should headto a non-segregated bath.

Palatinus StrandBudapest’s most popular

swimming complex has waterslides, pools of all sizes and hotsprings, all set amidst the peaceand tranquillity of MargaretIsland. d Map P1 • XIII, Margaret Island• 340 45 05 • Open 30 Apr–3 Jun: 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 9am–7pm Sat & Sun; 4Jun–Sep: 9am–7pm daily • Adm Ft1,900

Rác BathsExtensively redeveloped in

1869, the Rác Baths still retain aglorious Ottoman dome andoctagonal pool. At the time ofwriting, they are closed for furtherrenovation and due to open in2006. d Map J5 • I, Hadnagy út 8–10 • Closed for renovation; check with touristoffice for opening dates • Adm Ft800

Dagály Medicinal Bathsand Strand

Some way from the city centre,the Dagály Strand is Budapest’slargest pool complex, with 12pools including children’s poolsand a hydrotherapy and fitnesscentre. d Map P1 • XIII, Népfürdπ út 36• 452 45 00 • Open 6am–7pm Mon–Fri,6am–5pm Sat & Sun • Adm Ft1,500

Danubius Grand HotelMargitsziget

Budapest’s most exclusive bathsare those at the equally exclu-sive Danubius Grand HotelMargitsziget. Don’t be surprised ifyou find a Hollywood star sharingthe hot tub with you (see p113).

Swimming pool at Palatinus Strand

Massages are usually given by masseurs of the same sex, butmost baths feature at least one large bath for mixed bathing.

38

Left National Gallery Centre National Museum façade Right Sword of Laszlo, National Museum

Museums and Galleries

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Hungarian National GalleryMore than 10,000 exhibits

make the National Gallery’s col-lection one of the greatest in theworld. Spread over much of theRoyal Palace, every significantHungarian work of art from medie-val times to the present day isdisplayed here (see pp20–23).


Founded on the personalcollection of philanthropist CountFerenc Széchenyi, the NationalMuseum has been home to astunning array of Hungarianartifacts since 1802. The buildingis a masterpiece in its own right(see pp30–31).

Museum of Fine ArtsIf the Neo-Classical building

that houses the Museum of FineArts doesn’t overwhelm you, step

inside to enjoy the fine collectionof pieces from all artistic eras andgenres. Raphael, Toulouse-Lautrec, Picasso and Goya allfeature, and there are also col-lections of ancient Egyptian andGreek art (see p89).

Budapest History MuseumIn a rather haphazard but

nevertheless gripping manner,the Budapest History Museumtells the story of the city fromthe Middle Ages till today. Thismuseum is at its best when itrecounts the story of the RoyalCastle and Palace, in which it ishoused (see p63).

Jewish MuseumBudapest’s proud Jewish

community is based aroundEurope’s largest synagogue –the Great Synagogue. Next dooris the community’s museum,established in 1931 and stillhome to thousands of Jewishhistoric relics and devotionalitems. There is also a roomdevoted to the Holocaust, while in the courtyard there is a memorial to the 600,000Hungarian Jews killed by theNazis. d Map M4 • VII, Dohány utca 2 • 342 89 49 • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pmMon–Thu, 10am–2pm Fri & Sun; Oct–Apr:10am–3pm Mon–Thu, 10am–2pm Fri &Sun • Adm • www.bpjewmus.hu

Museum of Applied ArtsDon’t miss the Oriental

rugs, nor the Zsolnay ceramicsor Secessionist furniture in thisBrixen’s Birth of Mary, Museum of Fine Arts

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Budapest’s Top 10

outstanding museum. Firstopened in 1896 for Budapest’sMillennium Celebrations, it ishoused in a superb Secessionistbuilding designed by ÖdönLechner (see p84).

Vasarely MuseumBorn Gyπzπ Vásárhelyi,

Victor Vasarely carved himself aplace in art history as the founderof the Op-Art movement in Parisin the 1930s. A museum ded-icated to his life and work,featuring almost 500 pieces, isbased in Zichy Palace in Óbuda. d Map P1 • III, Szentlélek tér 6 • 250 1540 • Open 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun

EthnographicalMuseum

Not without itscharms, including afine collection of cos-tumes and uniformsfrom throughoutHungary’s history, thisis one museum wherethe building far out-weighs the exhibits.Designed by AlajosHauszmann and builtin 1893–6, it served asthe country’s SupremeCourt until 1945. d Map K1 • V, KossuthLajos tér 12 • 473 24 00 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun

Zsolnay ceiling tiles, Museum of Applied Arts

Ludwig MuseumBudapest – Museum of

Contemporary ArtIf the splendour of Empire andthe Secession become too muchfor you, head for this museumfor a bewildering display of mod-ern Hungarian art. More than150 works from 1960 onwardsdocument the progression ofHungarian artists as they attempt-ed to break out of SocialistRealism. There are also a num-ber of works by internationalcontemporary artists. d Map P2 • IX, Palace of Arts, Komor Marcell utca 1 • 555 30 00 • Open 10am–6pm Tue, Fri & Sun, noon–6pm Wed, noon–8pm Thu,10am–8pm Sat • www.ludwigmuseum.hu

Museum of Military History

Uniforms, flags, maps, weaponsand photographs document themany battles that have beenfought over Budapest. The muse-um is especially effective when ittells the story of the 1956National Uprising, and of themany Hungarians who subse-quently lost their lives in therepression that followed. d MapA3 • Tóth Árpád sétány 40 • 356 95 22 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun

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Left St Stephen’s Basilica Centre Rose window, Mátyás Church Right Interior, Cave Church

Places of Worship

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St Stephen’s BasilicaThe grandest of Budapest’s

many spectacular churches is fit-tingly named after the country’sfirst king, St Stephen. Built in thelatter part of the 19th century, itdominates the city skyline andcan be seen from most parts ofBudapest (see pp12–13).

Mátyás ChurchMátyás Church has been a

piece of Budapest history sincethe 13th century. It has been thestage for a number of seminalevents, including the marriage ofKing Mátyás, and the coronationsof Franz József I in 1867 andCharles IV in 1916 (see pp24–5).

Great SynagogueCompleted in 1859, this is

the largest synagogue in Europe.Its design betrays the desire of

19th-century Jews to assimilateinto Hungarian society. The twintowers, for example, are clearlyinspired by Christian churchsteeples. During World War II,the synagogue was used as adetention centre and also actedas the centre of the Budapestghetto (see p84).

Cave ChurchThe remarkable Cave Church

was built into Gellért Hill byPauline monks following apilgrimage to Lourdes. It wasconsecrated on Whit Sunday1926. Bricked up during theCommunist period, it reopenedin August 1989 (see p69).

Inner City Parish ChurchAlmost destroyed to make

way for Elizabeth Bridge (seep42) when it was being rebuiltafter World War II, the Inner CityParish Church was miraculouslysaved when the builders had alast-minute change of heart. Theoldest building in Pest, datingfrom the 14th century, it wasdamaged by fire in 1723 andrebuilt by György Pauer in 1725–39. Don’t miss the vaultedGothic chapel (see p83).

St Anne’s ChurchThe twin-towered parish

church of Víziváros is one of the most beautiful Baroquechurches in Hungary. Built from1740 to 1805, its highlightsinclude the painted ceiling byGergely Vogl, the high altar andFigure of St Florian, Inner City Parish Church

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Budapest’s Top 10

the magnificent Baroque pulpit. d Map H1 • I, Batthyány tér 7 • 201 34 04 • Open 10am–10pm daily

Capuchin ChurchJust a short walk along

Fπ utca from St Anne’sChurch lies thecharming CapuchinChurch, a 19th-century replica of anearlier building. Thefirst church on thesite was founded inthe 14th century, but wasconverted into a mosqueduring the Turkishoccupation and almost entirelydestroyed in 1686. Of the feworiginal features to remain is thedoorway on the southern façade.d Map H2 • I, Fπ utca 32 • 201 47 25 •Open 10:15–11:45am Mon–Fri (also openby prior arrangement)

Serbian ChurchBuilt by Serbian settlers in

1698, this Baroque churchreplaced an earlier one on thesame site. The church’s interior isarranged according to the GreekOrthodox tradition, as the Serbsfollow the Orthodox liturgy. Theiconostasis that surrounds thechoir gallery and divides it fromthe sanctuary dates from 1850.It was carved by Serb sculptorMihai Janic. d Map L5 • V, Szerb utca2–4 • Open 8am–7pm daily

Lutheran ChurchThis striking church is

characterized by its utter sim-plicity, in keeping with thedesign of most Protestantchurches throughout CentralEurope. Built between 1797 and1808, it is not without charm,though its very ordinariness iswhat makes it stand out. Superbacoustics make it a popularvenue for classical and organconcerts. d Map L3 • V, Deák tér 5 • 235 02 07 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun

Franciscan ChurchBuilt originally in the 13th

century, the Franciscan Church –like many churches in

Budapest – was used asa mosque during theTurkish occupation inthe 16th and 17thcenturies. It wasrebuilt by the

Franciscan orderbetween 1727 and

1743, and their emblemremains visible today in the main portal.

Numerous sculptures ofFranciscan saints also decoratethe church’s façade. d Map L4 • V, Ferenciek tere 9 • 317 33 22 • Open 7am–7pm daily

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42

Left The Chain Bridge Centre Cruise boat Right Sculpture by Adolphe Thabart, Margaret Bridge

Danube Sights

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Chain BridgeCompleted in 1848, the Chain

Bridge (Széchenyi Lánchíd) wasthe first permanent crossingbetween Buda and Pest. Oneither side of the Bridge are twohuge towers that support themammoth chains from which thebridge takes its name. Thetowers are superbly lit atnight, which makes thebridge one of the city’smost photographed sights.In summer, the bridgecloses at weekends tohost a cultural festival(see p49). d Map J3

River CruisesA number of companies run

tours along the Danube duringthe summer, beginning fromVigadó tér. Mahart Passnave runevening cruises – includingdrinks and dinner – every dayfrom May to September. Thereare also daily hydrofoil servicesto Bratislava and Vienna fromApril to November. d MahartPassnave: Map K4; V, Vigadó tér; 318 1223; www.mahartpassnave.hu

Elizabeth BridgeThe longest suspen-

sion bridge in the worldwhen completed in 1903,Elizabeth Bridge (Erzsébethíd) had to be completelyrebuilt after World War II,and did not reopen until1963. Great care had to betaken on the Pest side toensure that the Inner City

Parish Church (see p83) was notdamaged during rebuilding;indeed at one stage the church’scontinued existence was threat-ened, with the builders and theCommunist authorities wantingto demolish it. A compromisewas reached however, and today

the roadway passes justinches from the church’swalls. d Map K5

HungarianParliament

The city’s number onesight looks better from thewater or from the oppo-

site bank of the Danube than fromanywhere else. On summer morn-ings, the splendour of its startlingdesign – based on London’sriverside Parliament building – isonly enhanced by the river’ssoothing effect (see pp8–11).

Margaret IslandBudapest’s oasis and a great

place to spend summer after-noons, Margaret Island was infact three separate islands until

View of the Parliament from across the Danube

For more information on river boat cruises see p104.

Crown on ElizabethBridge

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Budapest’s Top 10

they were joined together byground-breaking embankmentwork in the latter part of the 19thcentury (see pp18–19).

Margaret BridgeThe gateway to Margaret

Island, Margit híd was built by aFrenchman, Ernest Gouin, from1872 to 1876, and is distinguishedby its unusual chevron shape.The approach road to the island,however, was actually an embar-rassing afterthought, and wasn’tadded until the 1890s. d Map B2

Academy of SciencesThe historicist Academy

actually stands in Roosevelt térfacing the square, not the river,but its superb Neo-Classicalfaçade can be admired byanyone travelling upstream,while the aspect that faces theDanube is no less impressive.Built from 1862 to 1864, it wasdesigned by architect FriedrichAugust Stüler (see p76).

Liberty BridgeLegendary Hungarian tural

birds sit atop the Modernist,bold girders of Liberty Bridge(Szabadság híd). First construct-ed in 1894–99, it was entirelyrebuilt after being destroyed bythe Nazis during World War II,and is an exact replica of theoriginal. It was earlier known as

Emperor Franz József Bridge,but the Communists unsurpris-ingly decided on a less imperialname. d Map L6

Embankment WalkThis walk extends along

most of the Pest embankment,from Liberty Bridge to MargaretIsland and beyond. Several boatsmoored on the various quayshave cafés aboard, includingColumbus, one of the city’s best(see p54), and Spoon, one of thenewest in Budapest. d Map B3, B4,C5 • Spoon Café & Lounge: V, Vigadó tér3, Port; 411 09 33; www.spooncafe.hu

Buda Castle FunicularKids of all ages love to ride

up and down the archaic funicu-lar. The journey is short, thecabins tiny, but the views of theDanube below are superb. Also,on a chilly, windy or rainy day, itsure beats walking up to thecastle. d Map H3 • I, Buda Castle,Clark Ádam tér • 201 91 28 • Open7:30am–10:30pm; closed 2nd and 4thMon of every month • Adm

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Children’s Attractions

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Széchenyi Hill Cog andChildren’s Railway

Children between the ages of 9and 14 man a narrow-gauge rail-way that runs through the BudaHills (see p95) from SzéchenyiHill to H√vös Valley. The onlyadults on board are the engi-neers. To get to the train, youfirst have to take the cog railwayfrom Szilágyi Erzsébet fasor upto the top of Széchenyi Hill. Thistrack is 3,730 m (12,240 ft) longand climbs to 315 m (1,035 ft). d Széchenyi Hill Cog: Map N1, N2; II,Szilágyi Erzsébet fasor 47; 355 41 67;open 5am–11pm daily; adm • Children’sRailway: Map N2, N1; XII, Golfpalya út;397 53 92; open May–Aug: 10am–5pmdaily (timings of last the trains vary); adm

FunicularChildren love riding in the

front cabin of the BudapestCastle funicular. The journeytakes just a minute or so, butthe views of the Danube as youclimb up to the Castle aremagnificent (see also p43).

Transport MuseumA fine collection of trains,

buses, trams, bicycles, helicop-ters and planes is on display atthis museum. With exhibits bothinside and out, it’s a great rainyday option. Children are allowedto clamber over many of theexhibits. After you’re done, takea break in the café, set in an oldHungarian railway carriage.d Map F2 • XIV, Városliget (City Park) • 273 38 40 • Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri

Palatinus StrandMargaret Island is home to

Palatinus Strand, Budapest’smost popular swimming pooland thermal bath complex. Slidesand a variety of children’s poolsmake it a popular choice forfamilies (see p37).

Open-Air Skating Rinkand Boating Lake

In winter, Városliget Lake turnsinto a superb skating rink, wherepeople of all ages skate to classi-cal music. During the summer,boats replace the skaters asfamilies row their craft aroundthe lake. Skates and boats can behired at the jetty near thepavilion. d Városliget (City Park): MapE2; Budapest XIV • Boating Lake: OlofPalme sétány 5; 364 00 13; open May–Sep: 10am–7pm daily; adm • Skating Rink:open Dec–Mar: 7am–10pm daily; adm

CircusThis permanent circus offers

great performances every day ofthe week except Monday andCycling along the shores of the Boating Lake

Left Budapest circus emblem Right Labyrinth of Budavár

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Budapest’s Top 10

Tuesday. The programme varies,but there are always plenty ofclowns, animals and acrobats,often from well-known visitingtroupes. In summer, the circushosts the International CircusFestival, a sort of Circus WorldCup. d Map E1 • XIV, Városliget (CityPark), Állatkerti körút 7 • 344 60 08 • Daily performances except on Mon & Tue • Adm

Budapest ZooBudapest’s zoo is large, well

funded and one of the best in theregion. It has a large aquarium, animpressive aviary, and a superbreptile house, which is best avoid-ed if you’re squeamish. The staffspeak several languages and helpchildren feel involved (see p91).

FunfairEstablished in

1878, Városliget’sslightly old-fashionedfunfair still hasenough rides to keepthe kids happy forhours. Older childrencan take pot shots atmoving targets on theshooting range. d MapE1 • XIV, Városliget (CityPark), Állatkerti körút 14–16• 363 83 10 • Open Apr–Sep: 10am–8pm daily • Adm• www.vidampark.hu

PlanetariumAlthough small and

by no means spec-tacular, Budapest’splanetarium accuratelycharts the course ofthe planets and thestars, accompanied bya slightly dated pop androck soundtrack. Withshows throughout theday, it is another goodrainy day option. d Map

P2 • X, Népliget • 263 18 11 • Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun • Adm • www.planetarium.hu

Labyrinth of BudavárMake sure you don’t lose

your kids in this undergroundmaze of tunnels and chambers.It is believed that these caveswere formed by hot springsabout half a million years ago.The music and bizarre exhibitssomewhat detract from the his-torical importance of the place –it was a refuge for hunters andgatherers from around 10,000BC, and served as a bombshelter during World War II – but it’s still worth a visit. d Map G2, G3 • I, Úri utca 9 • 489 32 80 • Open 9:30am–7pm daily • Adm • www.labirintus.com

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48

Left Opening ceremony of the Spring Festival, Heroes’ Square Right Adam’s Giselle, BudaFest

Festivals and Events

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Spring FestivalBudapest’s Spring

Festival runs for threeweeks in March and Apriland features world-classperformers. Outstandingopera, chamber and classi-cal music, literature andtheatre take over almostevery performance art venue inthe city. d www.festivalcity.hu

BudaFestEvery July and August since

1992, the State Opera House, theHilton Dominican Court and StStephen’s Basilica have hostedthe BudaFest Summer MusicFestival. The festival plays hostto the most distinguished tenors,sopranos and ballet soloists, aswell as jazz and folk musiciansand contemporary dancers. d www.viparts.hu

Hungarian Arts and Crafts Festival

Each year in August, Disz tér inthe Castle District comes alive forfour days of arts and crafts. Skilledcraftsmen from all over Hungaryflock here to display and sell theirwares. There are also perfor-mances of Hungarian folk musicand dancing. The highlight, how-ever, is the craftsmen’s parade onSt Stephen’s Day (20 August).

Sziget FestivalCentral Europe’s biggest

pop and rock festival makesperfect use of Óbudai, an islandin the middle of the Danube. The

world’s leading artistesperform over a week inmid-August. Most revel-lers stay on the island thewhole week, sleeping intents. d www.sziget.hu

Danube WaterCarnival

A celebration of the river thatforged the cities of Buda andPest, this festival features musicand dance performances as wellas aquatic events. It is held overa week in June, along the riverand both embankments, betweenthe Margaret and Chain Bridges.The festival ends with a colour-ful, noisy armada of boats.

Budapest ParadeAn enormous parade dances

its way along Andrássy út on thelast Saturday in August. An off-shoot of the Sziget Festival, itattracts top DJs and musicians.Local radio stations sponsor mostof the floats, all of which try tooutdo each other with their loudmusic, dancers and giveaways. d www.sziget.hu/budapestparade

Shopping at the Arts and Crafts Festival

Spring Festival logo

Previous pages: River view of Chain Bridge & St Stephen’s Basilica

49

Budapest’s Top 10

Top 10 NationalHolidays

St Stephen’s Day (20 Aug)

The most important holiday inthe calendar celebrates thecoronation of St Stephen(István), Hungary’s patron saint.

Christmas (25 Dec)The city’s famed Christmas

gift market is held everyDecember in Vörösmarty tér.

New Year (31 Dec)New Year’s Eve is celebrat-

ed on the streets. Vörösmartytér usually hosts pop concertsand firework displays.

Anniversary of 1848Revolution (15 Mar)

Hungarians pay their respectsto Sándor Petπfi by re-enactinghis poem and 12 ponts (points)at the Hungarian NationalMuseum (see pp30–31).

Easter (Mar/Apr)A devoutly Catholic

people, Hungarians celebrateEaster quietly, usually at home.

Labour Day (1 May)Once a Communist holiday

marked with military proces-sions, Labour Day is stillobserved as a national holiday.

Whit Sunday (7thSunday after Easter)

National holiday celebratingthe descent of the Holy Spirit.

Withdrawal of the RedArmy (19 Jun)

Though not a national holiday,the withdrawal of the RedArmy from Hungary in 1991 isstill marked by many people.

Republic Day (23 Oct)A double celebration marks

the outbreak of the 1956 revo-lution and the 1989 proclama-tion of the Republic of Hungary.

All Saints’ Day (1 Nov)Celebrates saints who do

not have their own holy days.

Hungarian Grand PrixThe Hungaroring circuit,

19 km (12 miles) from Budapest,is one of the most excitingcircuits on the Formula Onecalendar. The city goes into fullGrand Prix mode at least a weekbefore race weekend (usually atthe end of July). Tickets areexpensive and best booked inadvance. d www.hungaroring.hu

Jewish Summer Festival This week-long celebration

of Jewish culture is usually heldat the end of August. It featuresmusic, dance, visual arts, comedyand cabaret. Full details are avail-able at the Jewish Museum (seep38). d www.jewishfestival.hu

Summer on Chain BridgeArts replace cars on the

Chain Bridge everySaturday and Sunday fromthe first weekend in Julyto mid-August. Painters,musicians, dancers andeven a brass band orjazz orchestra entertainthe large crowds.

Budapest WineFestival

Every September,Buda Castle providesthe perfect locationfor Hungary’s fiercelycompetitive wine pro-ducers and gastronomes todisplay their latest creations andvintages. d www.winefestival.hu

Ferrari technicians, Hungarian Grand Prix

Hungarianred wine

50

Left WestEnd City Center Centre Nagy Lovas sign Right Sausages on sale, Central Market Hall

Shops and Markets

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WestEnd City CenterThis vast, three-level complex

of more than 400 shops is next toNyugati Railway Station. All yourfavourite brands and stores can befound here, though don’t expectbargains, as prices are often high-er than what you’d pay at home.Don’t miss the rooftop garden andballoon ride. d Map C2 • VI, Váci út1–3 • 238 77 77 • Open (shops)10am–9pm Mon–Sat, 10am–6pm Sun

Central Market HallRebuilt in 1999, Budapest’s

main produce market is great for local delicacies. Impeccablyclean, it has numerous stallsselling meat, salami, fruit andvegetables. The upper floor hasa small café and souvenir stalls.d Map M6 • V, Vámház körút 1–3 • 21760 67 • Open 6am–5pm Mon, 6am–6pmTue–Fri, 6am–2pm Sat

Apponyi MárkaboltAs much a museum as it is a

shop, Apponyi is an authorizedretailer of Hungary’s finestporcelain, known as Herend. TheHerend factory, to the west ofthe city, has been making exqui-site porcelain for generations.Most pieces at Apponyi commandhigh prices, but the workmanshipis outstanding. Everything is dis-played in large wooden cabinets –themselves priceless – beneath asplendid wooden ceiling. d MapK3 • V, József nádor tér 11 • 317 26 22

Nagy LovasHungary is renowned for its

horses and Hungarians for theirhorsemanship. This fabulous shopis equally famous for its range ofequestrian gear – saddles, bridles,riding boots, gloves, canes andwhips. No bargains are on offer;just excellent quality products. d Map D5 • VIII, József körút 69 • 338 25 55 • Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri,9am–1pm Sat • www.nagylovas.hu

Folkart CentrumHungarian arts and crafts

that are brought directly fromthe countryside are sold here.You’ll find a fine selection ofembroidery, textiles, carpets,ceramics, porcelain, dolls, wood-carvings, jewellery and dresses.The shop will also ensure thepacking and shipping of yourpurchases if they are too largefor you to carry. d Map L5 • V, Váci utca 58 • 318 58 10 • Open 10am–7pm daily Fruit and vegetable stalls, Central Market Hall

Most shops open between 9–10am in the morning and close between5–7pm Mon–Fri. Many shops stay open on weekends; timings vary.

51

Budapest’s Top 10

Flea MarketFortunately, EU membership

hasn’t yet led to the demise ofBudapest’s eclectic flea markets,where anything and everything ison sale for the right price. Thebest market is in the centre ofthe city’s largest park, Városliget(City Park), where you can pickup anything from Soviet mem-orabilia to second-hand records,ethnic art and crafts, as well ascoins, medals and weapons. d Map F2 • XIV, Zichy Mihály utca 14,Városliget • Open 7am–2pm Sat & Sun

Bonbon DelicatesseThere is more to this

marvellous delicatessen than justconfectionery and chocolates. Itsells a full range ofHungarian foodstuffincluding salami, pâté,spirits and wines andremains open wellpast midnight. d MapK3 • V, Váci utca 11/b • 48872 46 • Open 8am–1am daily

BÁV Jewellery(Rubin

Ékszerbolt)A collection of fineantique watches andjewellery from one ofHungary’s best knownauction houses. Thereare several other BÁVshops across the city,

Souvenirs at the Flea Market

all with different specializations.The outlets on Kossuth Lajos utcadeal in art and porcelain. d BÁVJewellery: Map L4; V, Párizsi utca 2; 31862 17 • BÁV: Map M4; V, Kossuth Lajosutca 1; 317 37 18 • BÁV: Map M4; V, Kos-suth Lajos utca 3; 318 86 08 • www.bav.hu

Polgár GaleriaA sensational art and

antiques gallery where you canpurchase works by classical andcontemporary Hungarian artists.You will also find rare antiques,including imperial Habsburgfurniture. The gallery also looksafter all onward shipping andrelated paperwork. d Map M4 • V,Kossuth Lajos utca 3 • 318 69 54 • Open10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–1pm Sat

Rózsavölgyi Zenem√boltHungary’s best record store

is located over two floors of alarge space opposite the City Hall.You’ll find a superb selection ofclassical music on the groundfloor, including works by all thecountry’s greatest composers.Pop and rock fans should headfor the basement. d Map L4 • V,Szervita tér 5 • 318 35 00 • Open9:30am–7pm Mon–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat

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52

Left Sign for Jazz Garden Centre Búsulo Juhász Étterem Right The popular Vörös és Fehér

Restaurants

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KacsaKacsa means “duck” in

Hungarian, so it’s easy to guesswhat dominates the menu here.Duck is served in many inventiveguises, created by a brilliant chef.There is more than duck on offer,however, and the wine list is sim-ply superb. d Map B3 • I, Fπ utca 75 • 201 99 92 • Open noon–midnight • Dis.access • www.kacsavendeglo.hu • FFFFF

RivaldaRivalda was voted “best

restaurant in the city” from 2000to 2003. It is a casual but classyplace, where the food is contem-porary and the service very good.d Map H3 • I, Színház utca 5–9 • 489 0236 • Open 11:30am–11:30pm daily • Dis.access • www.rivalda.net • FFFF

GundelA Budapest legend, Gundel

has been serving fine cuisinesince the mid-19th century. Thefood is classic Hungarian, thoughoften with a modern twist. Menare required to wear a jacket.d Map E2 • XIV, Állatkerti út 2 • 468 40 40• Open noon–4pm & 6:30pm–midnight • Dis. access • www.gundel.hu • FFFFF

Vadrózsa ÉtteremFew restaurants in Budapest

are as luxurious as the Vadrózsa,situated a fair distance from thecity centre. Take the HÉV train toMargaret Bridge and then makeyour way by bus or taxi. d Map N1• II, Pentelei Molnár utca 15 • 326 58 17 • Open noon–4pm & 7pm–midnight daily• www.vadrozsa.hu • FFFFF

Vörös és FehérThis restaurant is so popular

that it’s almost impossible to getin without a reservation. It wasfounded by Budapest’s wine soci-ety and has an excellent wine list.The international menu oftensteals the show from the wine.d Map M2 • VI, Andrássy út 41 • 413 1545 • Open noon–midnight daily • FFF

Jazz GardenWarm summer evenings

were made for places like thisone. Traditional Hungarian dishesdominate the menu, and there isjazz and blues from 9pm everynight throughout the summer. d Map L5 • V, Veres Pálné utca 44/a • 266 73 64 • Open 6pm–1am daily • FF

La FontaineBudapest’s best French

restaurant is a triumph of simple,yet delicious cooking. Prices arereasonable, and the atmosphere iscasual yet elegant. A good selec-tion of wines is on offer. d MapK3 • V, Mérleg utca 10 • 317 37 15 • Opennoon–2:30pm & 7pm–10:30pm Mon–Fri,7pm–10:30pm Sat • Dis. access • FFFF

Live jazz and blues at Jazz Garden

Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants are open daily and accept credit cards.

53

Budapest’s Top 10

Top 10 HungarianDishes

Libamáj ZsírjábanGoose liver, fried in its

own fat, is a Hungarian spe-ciality and is considered agreat delicacy.

KolbászClassic Hungarian sausage,

which is usually very spicy.

Bakonyi SertésbordaPork chop in a creamy

mushroom sauce.

BélszínszeletBudapest Módra

Classic Budapest beef andpaprika dish, though the beefneeds to be of very highquality, which it sometimesisn’t in these parts.

MarhapörköltTarhonyával

Traditional Hungarian beefgoulash in a hot, paprikasauce, often accompanied by soft noodles.

Brassói AprópecsenyePork stew, strongly

seasoned with garlic andpaprika and served with fried potatoes.

Borjúbélszín Gundel Módra

Medallions of beef in a richmushroom sauce.

Erdélyi FatányérosPopular Transylvanian

platter of grilled pork and beef,richly garnished with pickles,peppers and chips. Each por-tion is intended for two people.

Töltött PaprikaPeppers stuffed with rice

and mince and served in atomato sauce – anotherTransylvanian favourite.

HalászléHungarians aren’t big on

fish, but this carp soup,seasoned with paprika, ispopular in winter.

Búsuló Juhász ÉtteremThe views from this

traditional restaurant on theslopes of Gellért Hill are out-standing. However, the food isaverage, and the Gypsy band thatshuttles from table to table caneither be a nuisance or a delightdepending on your mood. d MapC6 • XI, Kelenhegyi út 58 • 209 16 49 • Open noon–midnight daily • FFFFF

Alabárdos ÉtteremIf you’re looking for Hungarian

food as it used to be cooked, thisis the only place to come. Fromthe goose liver terrine to the deli-cious chicken paprika with curdstrudel, everything on the menuis authentic. Prices are high, butworth every forint. d Map G2 • I, Országház utca 2 • 356 08 51 • Opennoon–4pm & 7pm–11pm Mon–Sat • FFFFF

Kisbuda Gyöngye ÉtteremA unique restaurant where

the service can be terrible and thedecor so cluttered that you trip onthe way to your table, but thefood is tremendous and the ambi-ence outrageously ancien regime.Gourmets and foodies love it, asit has a chef who genuinely caresabout what he’s serving, whilethe scatty decor keeps thenouveaux riches away. d Map P1 • III, Kenyeres utca 34 • 368 64 02 • Opennoon–midnight Mon–Sat • FFFF

Plush interior of La Fontaine

For a key to price categories see pp67, 73, 79, 87, 93 or 99.

54

Left Interior of the chic Ba Bar Right The Columbus moored on the Danube

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Ba BarCafé and lounge

bar where Budapest’strendy set come toeat, drink and be seen.The lighting is superb,and the sleek woodenbar is a great place to whileaway the hours. Even moreenticing are the beanbags in thelounge. d Map E4 • VII, Huszár utca 7• 0620 919 79 79 • Open 11:30am–2amSun–Thu, 11:30am–4am Fri & Sat

Irish Cat PubOne of the first Irish pubs to

open in Budapest, the Irish CatPub remains one of the city’sbest. Set in a cellar opposite theHungarian National Museum, ithosts live music three or fournights a week, and is the perfectplace to relax during the summer.d Map M5 • V, Múzeum körút 41 • 26640 85 • Open 11am–2am Mon–Thu,11am–4am Fri & Sat, 5pm–2am Sun

AbszintAbsinthe, the enticing green

drink that fuelled the imaginationsof philosophers and artists alikein the mid-19th century, still

survives, though notin its original form.You can enjoy themodern-day version,and more besides, atthis hip but welcom-ing bar, café and bistro

on the city’s classiestavenue. Splendid contemporaryart adorns the walls. d Map M2 • VI, Andrássy út 34 • 332 49 93 • Open10am–midnight daily • www.abszint.hu

ColumbusOne of Budapest’s best cafés

is located on a boat permanentlymoored on the Danube. Excellentbistro food, coffee and drinks areserved all day, and the boat ispopular with families who comefor lunch over the weekends.The evenings often get louder as people begin to dance to livemusic. d Map K4 • V, Vigadó tér 4, Port• 266 90 13 • Open 11am–midnight daily

Eklektika CaféA mix of live jazz, poetry

readings, art exhibitions andother eclectic events made thiscafé a favourite with Budapest’sBohemian crowd when it openeda few years ago. You’ll alwaysfind an unpretentious group ofpeople enjoying coffee and finewine until late in the evening. d Map L4 • V, Semmelweis utca 21 • 266 30 54 • Open noon–midnight daily

Café Pierrot This wonderful clown-themed

café passes on its happy thoughtsto whoever is lucky enough toCosy interior of the Irish Cat Pub

Cafés, Pubs and Bars

Ba Bar sign

Unless otherwise stated, all cafés, pubs and bars are open daily.Pubs and bars usually remain open until about 1am.

55

Budapest’s Top 10

enjoy a drink here. You will lovethe clutter of the decor – all bam-boo chairs and colourful walls –while there are superb crêpes tobe tried if you feel a little hungry.d Map G2 • I, Fortuna utca 14 • 375 69 71• Open noon–midnight • www.pierrot.hu

MediterranOccupying a prime spot on

Liszt Ferenc tér, Mediterran reallydoes feel Mediterranean on warmsummer evenings. In fact, allthat’s missing is the sea. Sit downon the comfortable bamboo chairsunder the colourful umbrellas,select a drink from the cocktaillist and spend some happy hoursrelaxing with the city’s chic set. d Map M2 • VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 10 • 34446 15 • Open 11am–midnight daily

Mosselen Belgian Beer Café

Only a staunch Czech nationalistwould dispute the fact thatBelgium produces the world’sbest beer. There are more than 15varieties of beer to enjoy here,from the more famous StellaArtois and Hoegaarden to lesser-known, monk-brewed delights.Also on the menu are steamingbowls of fresh mussels, flown indaily from Belgium, and beef andlamb dishes cooked in beer. d Map C2 • XIII, Pannónia utca 14 • 45205 35 • Open noon–midnight daily

RigolettoThe latest sounds

provide a smooth back-drop to evenings at thisfashionable bar, housed ina cavernous space justnorth of Nyugati Station.It’s the kind of place thattends to fill up early andstay full until the nextmorning. The crowd istrendy and drinks can beexpensive, but a goodtime is guaranteed.

d Map C2 • XIII, Visegrádi utca 9 • 23706 66 • Open 8am–11pm daily

Rondella BorozóA traditional Budapest wine

bar, the Rondella Borozó islocated in a superb old mansion.Wine is served directly from thebarrel and brought to your tablein rather curious little jugs withtaps at the bottom. Good bistrofood is also on offer, andalthough prices can be slightlyhigh, it’s all extremely goodvalue. Occasionally, there is livemusic on offer. d Map K4 • V, Régiposta utca 4 • 483 08 29 • Open noon–midnight daily

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Types of Hungarian bars include traditional wine bars or cellars(borozós), beer houses (sörözπs) and coffee bars (eszpresszós).

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Left Interior of the Cotton Club Centre Fat Mo’s, a famous jazz venue Right Trocadero Club sign

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A38Budapest’s top dance venue

is located on a ship moored onthe Danube. There are three floorsto choose from – the upper deckterrace for listening to the latestmellow sounds, the lower deck-level restaurant and the concertand dance hall below. A38 is alsopopular for classical and rock con-certs, held below the deck in thehold. d Map D6 • I, near Petπfi Bridge inBuda, Pázmány Péter rakpart • 464 39 40 • Open 11am–4am daily • www.a38.hu

Bahnhof Big, brash and not entirely

welcoming, this is the first choiceof most clubbers. The decor isn’tgreat, with cabins, couchettes andrailway station memorabilia, butit’s the music you’ll come for.Two dance floors entertainthe crowds, one playingstandard dance tracks, theother featuring the latesthouse sounds fromaround Europe. d Map C3 • VII, Teréz körút55, Western Railway(Nyugati) Station • 302 85 99• Open Thu–Sat nights only

Cotton ClubA genuinely good attempt to

recreate a Chicago speakeasy inthe heart of Budapest. You’ll finda restaurant, a smoking room anda gambling room, all in the cav-ernous cellar that houses thisplace. Upstairs, there are roomswhere you can spend the nightin case you’ve had one too manybrandies with your cigar. d MapM1• VI, Jókai utca 26 • 354 08 86 • Opennoon–midnight Mon–Wed, noon–3amThu–Sat • www.cottonclub.hu

Club SevenIf what you’re after is a little

decadent cabaret, fabulous cock-tails and stunning locals of bothsexes, look no further than ClubSeven. It’s a little exclusive, butmost of the patrons like it thatway. Wear your best pair of shoesand your most glamorous dressand you’ll fit right in. d Map D4 • VII, Akácfa utca 7 • 478 90 30 • Open10am–5am daily • www.clubseven.hu

E-KlubRaucous, hedonistic, rude and

proud – this is the club that givesHungarian DJs a great reputation.It is split into four areas – with a

second dance floor featuring1980s retro. The music is

always the latest and hard-est house around, while

the crowd is the mostinappropriately dressedin the city. d Map P2 • X,Népligeti út 2 • 263 16 14 • Open 10pm–5am Fri, 5pm–5am Sat • www.e-klub.hu

A38, aboard a ship moored on the Danube

Sign for Bahnhof

Unless otherwise stated, all clubs open daily at about 9pm inthe evening and stay open until 4am.

57

Budapest’s Top 10

SzodaA sophisticated 24-hour café

and club that only closes whenthey need to clean the place up.The crowd is split between well-heeled locals and in-the-knowvisitors, and the music is mellow –hip without being cutting edge.d Map M3 • VII, Wesselényi utca 18 • 461 00 07 • Open 8am–5am daily • www.szoda.com

Fat Mo’sLegendary music venue that

hosts regular jazz, blues and rocknights. When there are no liveacts, the DJ spins thehottest dance tunes.Don’t worry if thecrowd seems unfriend-ly at first – peoplebegin to unwind as theevening progresses. d Map L5 • V, Nyáry Pálutca 11 • 267 31 99 • Open noon–midnight Mon–Fri, 6pm–4am Sat, 6pm–2amSun • www.fatmo.hu

Kaméleon KlubLocated on the top

floor of a shoppingcentre, this club offerskitsch decor, kitschmusic and an eclecticcrowd. No matterwhat music is playing –usually jazz and Latino

Signage for Fat Mo’s speakeasy

on Fridays and dance and rockon Saturdays and Sundays – youwill probably have a good time,as this is one of the less preten-tious clubs in town. d Map A3 • II, Mammut II Shopping Centre, 4th floor,Lövπház utca 1–5 • 345 85 47 • Open8pm–5am daily • www.kameleonmulato.hu

TrocaderoIf you want to dance the

meringue and salsa, Trocadero isthe place for you. However, if youaren’t too sure of how to hustle,you may want to think twice, aseveryone who comes here seemsto have been born a great dancer.d Map C2 • V, Szent István körút 15 • 311 46 91 • Open 9pm–5am Tue–Sat

KözgázAn infamous but essential

student haunt in Budapest’sCorvinus University, where thedrinks are cheap and the music isloud. Wednesday is karaoke night,and is popular. Be warned thatthe notoriously rude staff at thedoor can make getting in a hassle.d Map L6 • XI, Fπvám tér 8 • 215 43 59

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Erzsébethíd

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Batthyánytér Vörösmarty

utcaOktogon

Bajza utca

BlahaLujza tér

Ferenc körút

Astoria

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Left Royal Palace (Grassalkovich Mansion), Gödöllπ Right Façade of Károlyi Palace, Fót

Day Trips From Budapest

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SzentendreA small town with cobbled

lanes, pastel-coloured buildingsand tall Orthodox church spires,Szentendre was originally settledin the 18th century by Serbrefugees. Sights include theHungarian Open Air Museum,which offers visitors a chance tosample country life from the18th century until World War I,and Margit Kovács Museum,which displays the works of oneof Hungary’s best ceramic artists.d HÉV from Batthyány tér • HungarianOpen Air Museum: (0626) 50 25 00; openApr–Nov: 9am–5pm Tue–Sun; adm (Thu &Fri free); www.sznm.hu • Margit KovácsMuseum: (0626) 31 07 90; open 9am–5pmTue–Sun; adm

GödöllπThe 18th-century Royal

Palace at Gödöllπ was restoredin 2003 and now hosts a museumand theatre. Open-air classicalconcerts and theatre are the high-lights, but the Baroque palace andmuseum, especially the PalaceChapel, Franz József’s salon andthe gardens, are also worth a look.d HÉV from Örs Vezér tere • Royal Palace:(0628) 41 01 24; open Apr–Nov:10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Apr:10am–5pm Tue–Sun

VisegrádThe splendid ruins of

a 13th-century castle arethe focal point of a trip toVisegrád. It lies at thetop of a hill overlookingthe town below. The

finest palace of its time, much ofits outer wall remains, offeringstunning views. d Bus from Árpád híd • Castle: (0626) 39 81 01; open Apr–Oct:9:30am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–3pmdaily; adm

EsztergomThis is Hungary’s most sacred

city as it was here that St Stephen(István) was baptized. Situatedalong the Danube, its main featureis a vast 19th-century cathedralthat dominates the skyline. d Busfrom Árpád híd; train from Nyugati pu

FótFót is home to the

Károlyi Palace, the birth-place of Hungary’s first

president, Mihály Károlyi.The Church of the Immac-ulate Conception, with

its columned nave, is alsoworth a visit. d Bus fromÁrpád híd; train from Nyugatipu • Palace: (0627) 36 13 39

Orthodox church in Szentendre’s main square

Emblem of the RoyalPalace, Gödöllπ

Fót’s superb Károlyi Palace, dating from the 1830s, is open by appointment only.

59

Budapest’s Top 10

KecskemétÖdön Lechner’s town hall

(1893–6), with pink tiles andminaret-like spires, is Kecskemét’sbiggest draw. Another fine build-ing is the Secession-style CifraPalace, built as a casino in 1902.d Train from Nyugati pu • Town Hall: (0676) 48 10 65 • Cifra Palace: (0676) 48 07 76

KiskunfélegyházaThis town is the birthplace of

the nationalist poet, Sándor Petπfi(see p35), and his house is nowa museum. East of town is theKiskunfélegyháza National Park,home to many species of rare ani-mals and birds. d Train from Nyugatipu • Park: (0676) 48 26 11; open 8am–3pm

RáckeveThis town’s highlight is its

Orthodox church – the oldest inHungary – which was built by Serbsettlers in 1487. The interior haswell-preserved frescos and abeautiful iconostasis. d Bus fromNépstadion • Church: (0624) 48 59 85

MartonvásárThe 19th-century Brunswick

Palace at Martonvásár is one ofthe best preserved stately homes

Stately mansions in the town of Vác

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The towns featured here make ideal day trips from Budapest.Visegrád, Esztergom and Szentendre can also be reached by boat.

in Hungary. The present buildingis, in fact, a copy of an earlierBaroque construction, built forthe Brunswick family in the late18th century. The superb gardensdate from 1775. d Train from Déli pu• Brunswick Palace: open 8am–6pm daily

VácCompletely destroyed and

then rebuilt in the 17th century,the medieval town of Vác is best known for being the site of Hungary’s Arc de Triomph. The Arc was built in 1764, after a visit from the Habsburgempress, Maria Theresa. d Train from Nyugati pu

AROUNDTOWN

The Castle District andNorth Buda

62–67

Gellért and Tabán68–73

Around Parliament74–79

Central Pest82–87

Around Városliget88–93

Greater Budapest94–99

BUDAPEST’S TOP 10

62

AUNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE, the medieval town of Buda grew uparound a castle built by King Béla IV in the 13th century. The castle was

erected on a hill that rises 170 m (558 ft) above the Danube, to protect it frominvading hordes. However, it wasn’t enough to repel the Turks, who ravagedand then neglected Buda in the 16th century. It was the Habsburgs who finallyrestored and embellished the town in the 1800s, in the glorious, Imperial stylewe see today. North of the castle is Víziváros (Water Town), an area first inhabit-ed by people too poor to live on Castle Hill. Forever fighting back flood waters –

the phenomenon which gives Víziváros its name –modern-day Buda, which extends as far north as theold Roman garrisons at Óbuda and Aquincum, grewout of these unlikely beginnings. Today, Víziváros isone of the most exclusive residential districts inBudapest, and home to its finest restaurants.

Previous pages: Museum of Applied Arts

Sights

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1 Royal Palace

2 Hungarian NationalGallery

3 Budapest HistoryMuseum

4 Sándor Palace

5 Mátyás Church

6 Lords’ Street

7 Vienna Gate Square

8 Church of St MaryMagdalene

9 Fishermen’s Bastion

0 Batthyány Square

Left Budapest History Museum Centre Lords’ Street Right Batthyány Square

The Castle District and North Buda

Mátyás Church tower

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Royal PalaceTowering above Budapest,

the Royal Palace, or Castle, is infact, an amalgamation of severalbuildings. Most of the presentHabsburg Palace was built in the18th century during the reign ofMaria Theresa, but it was preced-ed by a palace and two castlesthat had earlier stood on the site.The first castle was built around1255, but was rebuilt by Mátyás Iin 1458. Following damage inWorld War II, the palace was ren-ovated again, with some parts,such as the dome, being entirelyrebuilt. The last resident wasRegent Admiral Horthy, who livedhere from 1919 to 1945. Sincethen, it has housed several muse-ums, including the HungarianNational Gallery. d Map B4

Hungarian National GalleryIt would take weeks to view

all the exhibits in the NationalGallery, as there are more than40,000 works on display at anygiven time. From the tragediesof the 19th century to the colourand optimism of the Secession,it’s all here. This is indeed one ofthe greatest art galleries in theworld (see pp20–23).

Budapest History MuseumAlso known as the Castle

Museum, this fascinating collec-tion of artifacts and historical

documents cleverly tracesthe city’s and the castle’shistory via three distinctexhibitions. The basementhouses an exhibition onthe castle during theMiddle Ages, that includesa recreation of a vaultedchapel from the earliest1255 structure. Gothicsculptures and armour thatwere unearthed while

renovating the Royal Palace afterWorld War II are also displayed.The ground floor has exhibits onthe city’s evolution from Romantimes to the 17th century, whilethe first-floor exhibition, entitled“Budapest in Modern Times”,picks up and completes the story.d Map J4 • I, Wing E of the Royal Palace,Szent György tér 2 • 225 78 15 • Open 15May–31 Oct: 10am–6pm daily; 31 Oct–15May: 10am–4pm Wed–Mon • Adm

Sándor PalaceThis is the official residence

of the Hungarian president – youcan only get in if you’re on officialbusiness. Instead, admire thebuilding from the outside, espe-cially its superb Neo-Classicalmotifs and bas-reliefs by RichárdTörök, Miklós Melocco and TamásKörössényi. The Palace was com-missioned in 1806 by CountVincent Sándor, and designed byMihály Pollack and Johann Aman.It was severely damaged in 1944,and was almost entirely rebuiltafter World War II. d Map H3 • I,Szent György tér 1–3 • Closed to the public

The Royal Palace on Castle Hill

Façade of Sándor Palace

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AlagútThe famous tunnel (alagút) that

runs through Castle Hill was oneof the later projects of Adam

Clark, the Scottish engineer whobuilt the Chain Bridge. Clark

adored Budapest and settled hereafter completing the bridge. He

engineered the tunnel from 1853to 1857, and the square that facesits entrance on the Danube sidebears his name. The tunnel itself,

350-m (1,150-ft) long and 11m (36-ft) high, remains unnamed.

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Mátyás ChurchStanding on the site of a

13th-century structure, MátyásChurch was rebuilt and namedafter King Mátyás in 1470.Through most of the Middle Ages,Hungarians were not permittedin the church; only Germans couldworship here. It has witnessedseveral significant events, fromthe marriage of Mátyás to thecoronations of Franz József I andCharles IV. Béla III and his wifeare also buried here. When theTurks came to power in the early1500s, they converted MátyásChurch into a mosque. Accordingto legend, in 1686 a statue of the

Madonna appeared before theTurks while they were praying.They took this as a sign of defeatand lost the city of Buda to theHabsburgs. The church was alsothe scene of fierce fightingduring World War II, and wasn’trenovated until 1968 (see pp24–5).

Lords’ StreetBaroque and Gothic façades

give Lords’ Street (Úri utca) itsunique medieval character, thoughmost of the houses were rebuiltfrom 1950 to 1960, after beingdestroyed during World War II.The street runs the full length ofCastle Hill and its highlightsinclude the Höbling House at No.31, with its sublime Gothicfaçade, the Telephone Museumat No. 49, and the bizarre butexceptional Buda Castle Labyrinth(see p45), whose entrance is atNo. 9. The real highlight, how-ever, is to walk from one end tothe other. d Map G2; I, Úri utca

Vienna Gate SquareThe gate you see today is, in

fact, a replica of the original struc-ture that once led from Budatowards Vienna. It was built in1936 to celebrate the 250th anni-versary of Buda’s liberation fromthe Turks. Quintessential Gothicand Baroque houses line the sidesof the square. The huge buildingon the square’s left-hand side isthe Hungarian National Archive,a Neo-Romanesque structurefamous for its multicolouredroof. d Map G1 • I, Bécsi kapu tér

Church of St Mary Magdalene

Built in the 13th century for thecity’s Hungarian citizens, whowere forbidden from praying atMátyás Church, this church nowlies in ruins. All that remains isthe tower and gate, after the

The Telephone Museum (201 81 88) on Lords’ Street is open10am–4pm Tue–Sun and has an admission fee.

Transport in the area includes bus 16, that runs from Clark Ádám térto Dísz tér and a minibus connecting Clark Ádám tér to Moszkva tér.

Conical tower of the Fishermen’s Bastion

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There’s no better way ofgetting up to the castlethan by taking theFunicular (see p43) fromLánchíd utca. At the top,you can admire the statelySándor Palace (see p63)from the outside, but youwon’t get past the smartlydressed guards unless youhave business with thepresident. On the otherside of the palace is thesuperb HungarianNational Gallery (seepp20–23). Be careful notto stay all day; an hour orso admiring the best ofSecession-period art andthe collection of altarpieceson the first floor shouldsuffice. Then stroll along thecastle ramparts to Lords’Street, with its charmingBaroque and Gothicbuildings and end with arelaxing lunch at CaféMiro (30 Lords’ Street).

A Day in the CastleDistrict & North Buda

Morning

AfternoonHead eastwards to theFishermen’s Bastion andenjoy the fabulous viewsof the Danube and Pest onthe opposite bank; don’tforget your camera. Nextdoor is the historic MátyásChurch (see pp24–5). Youcan stock up on souvenirsat any number of shops onFortuna utca (the HiltonBudapest hotel, see p112,has a superb souvenirshop), before following theroad to the ruins of theChurch of St MaryMagdalene. From thechurch, take the little CastleDistrict bus back alongLords’ Street to Ruszwurm(see p66) for an elegant din-ner. If you are lucky, therewill be a concert at MátyásChurch to enjoy as well.

building was pulled down afterWorld War II. Nevertheless, thesite is enchanting, as the squarein which it stands is unusuallypeaceful. d Map G2 • I, Kapisztrán tér 6

Fishermen’s BastionFrom early morning till late

at night, visitors bypass MátyásChurch and head straight for theFishermen’s Bastion, whose tur-rets offer the most picturesqueviews of Pest. It was built inNeo-Romanesque style by FrigyesSchulek as a monument to theGuild of Fishermen in 1895. d MapH2 • I, Halászbástya, Szentháromság tér

Batthyány SquareThe heart of Víziváros, this

square is named after Count LajosBatthyány, the prime ministerduring the Hungarian Uprising of1848–9. Though somewhat mar-red by traffic, the square retainsa real charm and is crammed witharchitectural wonders. TheHikisch House at No. 3 has bas-reliefs depicting the four seasons,while St Anne’s Church (seep40) is a fine Baroque building. A monument to Ferenc Kölcsey,who wrote the words of thenational anthem, overlooks theSquare. d Map H1 • I, Batthyány tér

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Unless otherwise stated, all cafés, pubs and bars are open daily.Pubs and bars usually remain open until about 1am.

Cafés, Pubs and BarsHenri Belga SörözπThere are more than 20 types

of Belgian beers to try at this pub,located next to a restaurant of thesame name. Hoegaarden beer isa favourite. d Map J2 • I, Bem rakpart12 • 201 50 82

AngelikaThis historic patisserie is

housed in a former crypt of StAnne’s Church (see p40). Therelaxed atmosphere and superbpastries make it popular. d Map H1 • I, Batthyány tér 7 • 212 3784 • Open 8am–9pm daily

Café Pierrot Bamboo chairs and an

intimate decor make for abohemian yet elegant experienceat this clown-themed café. Thecrêpes are excellent (see p54).

Calgary Antik Drink BarA cross of antiques shop,

bar and club, the Calgary attractscrowds long after most placeshave closed. d Map B2 • II, FrankelLeó utca 24 • 315 98 87 • Open 11am–4am daily

Ruszwurm Since 1824,

Ruszwurm has beenserving cakes andpastries to a loyalclientele. The strudelis world famous andthe period furniture isworth a fortune. d Map G2 • I, Szenthárom-ság utca 7 • 375 52 84

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Fehér GalambA traditional wine bar and

bistro where you can sample arange of Hungarian wines as wellas eat a hearty meal. d Map G2 • I, Szentháromság utca 9–11 • 212 56 04

Móri BorozóAnother wine bar and bistro,

where wine is served straightfrom the barrel and can be drunkby the glass. There is usually agood stew cooking as well. d MapG1 • I, Fiáth János utca 16 • 214 92 16

Budavári Fortuna SpatenLocals flock to this beer bar

to sit at one of the long tables anddrink, eat and be merry. The foodis unfussy but nobody complains.d Map G2 • I, Hess András tér 4 • 37561 75 • Open 11am–11pm daily

Oscar American Cocktail Bar

Visit this sophisticated bar to trythe variety of bizarre cocktailsshaken and stirred by their greatstaff. d Map G1 • I, Ostrom utca 14

• 212 80 17 • Open 5pm–2am Sun–Fri, 5pm–4am Sat

Café GustoEnjoy a range of

salads and Hungarianfood with your coffeeat Gusto, located alittle out of the wayon the Buda side ofMargaret Bridge.d Map B2 • I, Frankel Leóutca 12 • 316 39 70 • Open 10am–10pm daily

Georgian RestaurantThe food here is impeccably

authentic, featuring huge shashlikkebabs cooked on an open grill.The home-made bread is divine. d Map B2 • II, Frankel Leó utca 30–34 • 367 49 34 • No credit cards • FFFF

Csalogány Étterem és Kávézó

A modern restaurant servingsimple Mediterranean food, mostof which is charcoal-grilled on hotcoals. d Map A3 • I, Csalogány utca 26• 487 08 73 • Open noon–11pm Mon–Sat,noon–4pm Sun • No credit cards • FF

Paksi HalászcsárdaTrout has never tasted so

good as at this great river-fishrestaurant. If you’re lucky, youmight catch the lively Gypsyband. d Map B2 • II, Margit körút 14 • 212 55 99 • No credit cards • FFF

Carlo’s RestaurantGreat terrace views make up

for the not-too-original food ser-ved here. Check the daily

specials, which canbe interesting. d MapB3 • I, Bem rakpart 30 • 488 01 15 • FFF

Pest BudaVendéglπ

Classic Hungarianfood is accompaniedby a superb wine list.Reservations areessential. d Map G2 • I, Fortuna utca 3 • 212 5880 • No credit cards • FFFF

67

RestaurantsKacsaYou’ll need a string of

superlatives to describe the duckdishes at this outstanding Budarestaurant. Service is ostentatious,with dishes whipped out fromunder tall silver domes (see p52).

RivaldaAnother Buda classic. The

theatre-inspired decor is playful,the contemporary European cui-sine superbly presented and ajazz pianist soothes the soul onmost evenings (see p52).

Alabárdos ÉtteremSensational Hungarian

cuisine with a modern twist. Thearmy of chefs make a real effortto give each dish a unique touch.Although prices are high, it isworth every forint (see p53).

Le JardinThis restaurant sets high

standards for original French food;seafood is a speciality. It has agreat terrace and garden insummer. d Map H2 • I, Fπ utca 20 • 201 00 47 • No credit cards • FFF

Fekete HollóThis Hungarian

restaurant has liveGyspy music on mostevenings. The gamedishes are highly rec-ommended. d Map G2 •I, Országház utca 10 • 356 23 67 • Dis. access• No credit cards • FFF

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Rivalda’s classic interior

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Price CategoriesFor a three-course mealfor one, with half abottle of wine (or equiv-alent meal), taxes andextra charges.

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ANCIENT SUPERSTITIONS AND MEDIEVAL MYSTERIES surround the areasof Gellért and Tabán. It is believed that Gellért Hill, which rises 140 m

(460 ft) on the western bank of the Danube, was the scene of Bishop Gellért’sdeath. In 1046, he was thrown from the top in a sealed barrel by enragedcitizens, for attempting to convert them to Christianity. The hill was later the siteof the Habsburgs’ sinister Citadel, which even today evokes a shudder amonglocals. At the foot of the hill, the luxurious Gellért Hotel and Baths stand as areminder of a gentler age. For centuries, Tabán was the city’s most bohemian

district, filled with numerous bars and gambling dens, untilurban planners created the parks and residential areas that

command some of the highest prices in the city today.

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Gellért BathsBuilt in 1918, these are the

best known and most luxuriousbaths in Budapest. There is asublime main pool, with bal-conies, columns and stained-glass windows, as well as moretraditional thermal baths. Insummer, the open-air swimmingpools at the back are popularwith chess-playing old men whospend all day here. Although thebaths are attached to the GellértHotel, their entrance is on theside street (see pp16–17).

Cave ChurchOn Easter Monday 1951, the

Hungarian secret police arrestedthe Pauline monks at the CaveChurch, murdering the leaderFerenc Vezér and sentencing theothers to long prison sentences.The church was then bricked upand forgotten until August 1989.This remarkable place of wor-ship, which is hewn into theGellért hillside, was founded bymonks of the Pauline Order afterthey visited Lourdes, France,in 1926. The revivedorder once againpresides over thechurch, which isclosed to the publicwhen services arein progress. d Map K6 • V, Szent Gellértrakpart 1 • 385 15 29 • Open 9am–8pm daily

Gellért MonumentAccording to legend, the

city’s patron saint, Bishop Gellért(see p71) was pushed off the hillthat now bears his name forattempting to convert Budapest’scitizens to Christianity, includingyoung Prince Imre, the son ofStephen I (István). Constructed in1904, the monument to thisChristian martyr is now looking a

little the worse for wear, althoughit still retains its original majestywhen viewed from afar. It isespecially striking at night, whenit is superbly lit. The statue andthe enormous Neo-Classicalcolonnade that flanks it weredesigned by Gyula Jankovits and Imre Francsek. d Map J5

Queen ElizabethMonument

Although the wife of theHabsburg emperor, Franz

József, was not Hungarianby birth, she adoredher adoptedsubjects and madegreat efforts tosoften Austrian

attitudes towardsHungary. A number ofstreets, bridges andmonuments throughout

the nation are named after her.The monument dedicated toElizabeth (Erzsébet) that overlooksthe Danube from the Gellértembankment was designed byGyörgy Zala and erected in 1932.Its original home was on the otherside of the river, from where itwas removed by the Communistsin 1947. It wasn’t until 1986 thatthe statue was reinstated at itspresent site. d Map K5

The landmark Gellért Monument

Carving on the altar

of the Cave Church

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Tabán Parish Church

The ominous Citadel on Gellért Hill

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CitadelBuilt to intimidate

Budapest’s citizens after thefailed Uprising of 1848–9, theCitadel was never actually usedfor its original purpose – that ofquelling new revolts – as theHungarians sought their indepen-dence by more peaceful means.Although the country wasgranted partial independenceaccording to the Dual Monarchyagreement of 1867, Austrianforces occupied the Citadel until1897. Today, it hosts a small exhi-bition and a restaurant (see p73),and its look-out points offer greatviews of the city. d Map K6

Liberation MonumentPerhaps the most

controversial monument inHungary, this imposing cenotaphtowers above the nearby Citadel.It was originally sculpted byZsigmond Kisfaludi Stróbl in 1943to honour István, son of AdmiralHorthy, who went missing duringan air battle on the Eastern Frontin 1942. However, the battle forBudapest towards the end ofWorld War II prevented the stat-ue’s erection, and its purposewas reassigned by the Red Armyin 1945 to commemorate theliberation of Budapest by Sovietforces. The inscription on theplinth originally paid tribute tothe Red Army, but was changedin 1989 and now honours all thosewho “laid down their lives forHungarian prosperity”. d Map K6

TabánThere is little left of Tabán’s

original character, as its narrowstreets and run-down bars on thenorthern slopes of Gellért Hillwere cleared in 1910 to makeway for scenic terraces, gardensand Secession buildings. It wasone of the first areas to beinhabited in Buda – the CelticEravi had a settlement here from1000 BC. The Romans later builta watchtower in the area, and inthe 15th century, the Turks builtthe Rác Baths (see p37). In the17th century, Tabán was hometo Serb refugees, Greeks andGypsies. Today, it is a popularvenue for summer concerts,while in winter, the hillside isideal for tobogganing. d Map H4

Tabán Parish ChurchThis church is all that remains

of Tabán’s old district. Topped bya fine Neo-Baroque tower, it wasbuilt from 1728 to 1736 on thesite of an earlier church that wasconverted to a mosque and laterdestroyed in the battle to over-throw the Ottoman Empire.Inside, is a copy of the 12th-century carving, Christ of Tabán.

Start the day with a coffeeand light breakfast on thecorner terrace of the CaféEszpresszó (see p17) atthe Gellért Hotel, thenhead around the corner tothe Gellért Baths (seepp16–17). Try to resist thetemptation to stay all dayin the various baths andswimming pools; a fewhours worth of pamperingand a massage should besufficient. Once refreshed,you’ll be in fine form totackle Gellért Hill (seep72) and climb up to theCitadel. After enjoying theviews from its ramparts,break for lunch at theCitadel’s own restaurant,Citadella (see p73).

A Day in Gellért and Tabán

Morning

AfternoonAfter lunch, descend south-wards to the Cave Church(see p69), a bizarre placeof worship hewn into therock of Gellért Hill. Fromhere, stroll down to GellértSquare and travel northalong the embankment inthe splendid tram No. 19 to Miklós Ybl Square. Ashort walk west leads youto the district of Tabán,where you’ll be surround-ed by Secession buildings.You can wander about thepretty terraces and gardensthat replaced the earlierslum. Next, visit the TabánParish Church just offAttila út, one of the fewsurviving buildings fromTabán’s old district. To thenorth is the fascinatingSemmelweis Museum ofMedical History (see p72).End the day by enjoying aclassic Hungarian meal atthe Aranyszarvas restau-rant in the Golden StagHouse nearby.

Bishop GellértDuring a pagan revolt in the

11th century, Bishop Gellért wasthrown off Old Hill in a sealed

barrel. To seek forgiveness fromGod, the citizens of Budapestdecided to dedicate the hill to him a century later. Of Italian

descent, the Bishop had, in fact,been invited to Hungary to helpthe newly baptized St Stephen

(István) spread Christianitythroughout the region. It was

rumoured that Stephen’s brother,Prince Vata, had a hand in themartyrdom. Today, the Bishop is worshipped as Budapest’s

patron saint.

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The original is in the BudapestHistory Museum (see p63). Thechurch has regular organ concerts.d Map J4 • XI, Attila út 11 • 375 54 91

Miklós Ybl SquareArguably Hungary’s greatest

architect, responsible for gemssuch as St Stephen’s Basilica (seepp12–13), Miklós Ybl is honouredwith a commemorative statuewhich stands in a square bearinghis name. It was designed by EdeMayer and erected here in 1894,three years after Ybl died. To thesquare’s west are Tabán’s scenicterraces, from where a number ofroutes lead up to the RoyalPalace. d Map J4 • XI, Ybl Miklós tér

Golden Stag HouseAt the foot of Castle Hill is

the Golden Stag House, namedfor the superb bas-relief above itsentrance depicting a golden stagpursued by two hunting hounds.The 19th-century house has longbeen home to the Aranyszarvasrestaurant. Unsurprisingly, theeatery specializes in game dishesand features venison, roe-deer,hare, pheasant and wild duck. d Map J4 • XI, Szarvas tér 1 • 375 64 51• Open noon–11pm daily

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A guided tour to the 30-ha (75-acre) reserve on Sas Hill gives youa chance to see several extremely rare species of flora and fauna.

Sas Hill Nature ReserveThe reserve on Sas Hill (Sas

hegy) is home to the city’s strang-est inhabitant, the Pannonian liz-ard. Access is by tour only. d MapN2 • XI, Tájék utca 26 • 319 67 89 • OpenMar–Jun & Sep–Oct: 10am–4pm • Adm

Gellért HillThe views from Gellért Hill,

especially of the terraces belowthe Citadel, are among the bestin the city. The well-kept pathsmake for glorious walks. d Map J6

Semmelweis Museum of Medical History

The house of the ground-breakingdoctor Ignáz Semmelweis(b.1918) is now a museum.Exhibits include medicines fromancient Egypt to the present day.d Map J4 • XI, Apród utca 1–3 • 375 35 33• Open 10:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sun • Adm

Cistercian Church of St Imre

This Neo-Baroque church wasbuilt in 1938. Inside are relics ofSt Imre, patron saint of theCistercian Order. d Map B6 • XI,Villányi út 25 • 466 44 16

TechnicalUniversity

Hungary’s largestacademic institutionwas built in 1904. Itsalumni include ErnóRubik, the inventor ofthe Rubik’s Cube. d Map C6 • XI, M√egye-tem rakpart 3 • 463 11 11

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Congress CentreEstablished in 1975, this arts

complex houses cinemas and con-ference rooms. It is best knownfor hosting the Hungarian FilmFestival each year. d Map A5 • XII,Jagelló út 1–3 • 372 54 00 • www.bcc.hu

Liberty BridgeBuilt in 1894–9 by János

Feketeházy, this bridge was origi-nally named after Emperor FranzJózsef. It was destroyed duringWorld War II and rebuilt as areplica of the original (see p43).

Former Swedish EmbassyThis building was made

famous by the Swedish diplomatRaoul Wallenberg, who savedtens of thousands of Jews fromNazi death camps. A monumentto him stands at the corner ofSzilágyi Erzsébet fasor and Nagyaj-tai utca. d Map K6 • XI, Minerva utca 3

Várkert CasinoBudapest’s most historic

casino is housed in what used tobe the engine room for the RoyalPalace’s water supply. d Map J4 • I,

Ybl Miklós tér 9 • 202 4244 • Open 24 hours daily

Rác BathsNamed after

the Serb (Rác) pop-ulation who oncelived in the area, the16th-century RácBaths are among the oldest in Budapest(see p37).

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Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants, bars and cafés are open dailyand accept credit cards. Pubs and bars remain open until about 1am.

Restaurants, Bars and CafésGellért HotelThis hotel has two good

restaurants – the Café Eszpressó,with its superb pastries andplaza, and the terrace restaurant,the scene of the city’s bestSunday brunch (see pp16–17).

Búsuló Juhász ÉtteremThe slopes of Gellért Hill

provide a fabulous location for thistraditional Hungarian restaurant.It specializes in game dishes andhas a good wine list (see p53).

MarcelloA somewhat spartan pizzeria

serving thin and crispy pizzas atremarkably low prices. You’llneed a reservation. d Map C6 • XI, Bartók Béla út 40 • 466 62 31 • No credit cards • FF

Tabáni Kakas VendéglπGame and poultry are the

specialities at this eatery. You caneven have your goose roastedover an open fire by chefs wholove to put on a show. Book inadvance. d Map G2 • I, Attila út 27 • 375 71 65 • F

Márványmenya-sszony Étterem

Quiet and secluded –until the band startsplaying at 9pm – thisis the perfect choicefor a Hungarian meal.The food is unfussybut good. d Map A4 • I, Márvány utca 6 • 487 30 90 • FF

Interior of Tabáni Kakas Vendéglπ

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Szeged ÉtteremA Hungarian restaurant next

to the Gellért Hotel. The food isgood and river-fish dishes arethe speciality of the house. d Map C6 • XI, Bartók Béla út 1 • 209 16 68 • FFF

CitadellaThis restaurant’s location in

the Citadel’s casements is muchmore of a draw than the food,but it is still a good choice for atraditional meal. d Map J6 • XI, Citadella sétány • 386 48 02 • FFFF

János ÉtteremA surprisingly good eatery in

a rather nondescript hotel. Thefood is mainly Hungarian and theservice is outstanding. d Map A5 • I, Hegyalja út 23 • 212 91 69 • FFF

Rolling Rock Café Great steaks and other Tex-

Mex delights make this a goodchoice for groups of friends. Youcan drink late into the night andwatch live acts almost everyevening. d Map B6 • XI, Bartók Béla út76 • 385 33 48 • Open 11am–3am daily

• No credit cards • FFFF

KisrablóA rough-and-

ready pub andrestaurant which isvery popular withstudents from thenearby TechnicalUniversity. d Map C6 • XI, Zenta utca 3 • 209 0723 • No credit cards • FFF

74

BUDA CASTLE AND THE ROYAL PALACE may have the benefit of theirlocation on top of Castle Hill, but the city’s defining sight remains its splen-

did Parliament building. The area around Parliament is redolent with historyand power, with large squares, wide avenues and Secessionarchitecture – remnants of the once powerful Austro-Hungarian Empire. The area is home to several of thecity’s most important buildings, including St Stephen’sBasilica and the outstanding State Opera House. Italso has some of Budapest’s finest restaurants, aswell as its most exclusive shops and residences.

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1 Hungarian Parliament

2 Kossuth Lajos Square

3 EthnographicalMuseum

4 Roosevelt Square

5 Academy of Sciences

6 Gresham Palace

7 St Stephen’s Basilica

8 Liberty Square

9 State Opera House

0 Operetta Theatre

Around ParliamentLeft Hungarian Parliament Right Operetta Theatre entrance

Left Liberty Square Right Dome, St Stephen’s Basilica

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Hungarian ParliamentMore than a 100 years after

it first opened, Hungary’sParliament building remains thecity’s primary source of civicpride. It was designed by ImreSteindl, a professor at BudapestTechnical University, who won anopen competition held to find an architect for the building.Inspired by London’s Houses ofParliament, this magnificentedifice is filled with paintings,frescoes and tapestries byrenowned Hungarian artists. Theinterior can only be seen byjoining one of the guided tours,which take place when Parliamentis not in session (see pp8–11).

Kossuth Lajos SquareStill considered the best

address in the city, Budapest’sfinest square is surrounded onall sides by splendid buildings. Itwas developed at the end of the19th century, after the unifica-tion of Buda and Pest gave riseto large scale construction beyondthe old city walls. The square isnamed after Lajos Kossuth, wholed the 1848–9 Uprising againstthe Habsburgs and subsequentlybecame a member of Hungary’sfirst democratic government. Hewas exiled in 1849 after theUprising was suppressed. A mon-ument in front of the Parliament

commemorates the Uprising.Opposite is another monumentthat pays tribute to Ferenc IIRákóczi, leader of the 1703 revoltagainst Austrian rule. A memorialto Imre Nagy, prime minister andleader of the 1956 revolt againstthe Soviet Union, also standsnearby. d Map K1 • Kossuth Lajos tér

Ethnographical MuseumThis enormous museum is

housed in a splendid Neo-Classical building on the easternside of Kossuth Lajos Square.Designed by Alajos Hauszmann,it was home to the Ministry ofJustice until 1947, after which itbecame the EthnographicalMuseum. Like the Parliament, theMuseum’s grand exterior andrichly ornamented interior reflectthe majesty, power and ambitionof the Austro-Hungarian Empire.Although the exhibits are oftenovershadowed by their resplen-dent surroundings, the colourfuldisplays of local costumes, toys,furnishings, wedding customsand even eating habits are cer-tainly worth your while. d Map K1• V, Kossuth Lajos tér 12 • 473 24 41 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • Adm

Façade of the Ethnographical Museum

Sir Thomas GreshamAlthough one of the city’s finest

buildings bears his name, SirThomas Gresham never set foot inBudapest. Gresham Palace (seep76) was commissioned over 300years after his death by the insur-

ance company he established.The principal figure in the founding

of the London Royal Exchange,Gresham is best remembered for

the maxim he made famous:“bad money drives out good”.

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Miklós Izsó sculptures, Academy of Sciences

Gresham PalaceCommissioned by the

London-based Gresham LifeAssurance Company and designedby Zsigmond Quittner and thebrothers József and László Vágóin 1907, Gresham Palace enjoysone of Budapest’s best locationsopposite the Chain Bridge. It isan imposing edifice with severalSecessionist characteristics, fromits stained-glass windows (includ-ing one featuring a portrait of thepatriot Lajos Kossuth), to the highatrium and chandelier. It was res-tored between 2002 and 2004,and opened soon after as a FourSeasons hotel (see p113). Theentrance to the shopping arcadefeatures a splendid wrought-irongate with peacock motifs. d MapK3 • V, Roosevelt tér 5–7 • 268 60 00

St Stephen’s BasilicaVisible from all over the city,

the dome of St Stephen’s Basilicais exactly the same height as theParliament’s own dome. Thechurch was built on the site ofPrank Theatre, where bears andwolves tore each other to shredsin front of crowds in the 18th cen-tury. Today, it is one of the city’smost sacred sites, as it housesthe mummified right hand of StStephen (István), after whom thechurch is named (see pp12–13).

Liberty SquareLaid out in 1886 on the site

of the barracks that housed theAustrian army, Liberty

Square has long beensynonymous withHungary’s free-dom struggle.The first primeminister ofindependentHungary, CountLajos Batthyány,was executed in

Roosevelt SquareThis square has been known

by various names since it wasbuilt at the head of the ChainBridge on the Danube’s easternbank. First called UnloadingSquare, its name was changedto Franz József Square, to com-memorate the coronation ofEmperor Franz József. It wasfinally named after the Americanpresident Franklin D Roosevelt in1947. Today, it features severalfine hotels, including theGresham Palace to its east. d Map K3 • Roosevelt tér

Academy of SciencesInaugurated in 1864, the

Academy of Sciences is a classicpiece of Neo-Renaissance archi-tecture designed by FriedrichStüler. The statues on the façade,including those of IsaacNewton and RenéDescartes, are byMiklós Izsó andEmil Wolff, whilethe interior hasmore statues byIzsó. d Map J2 • Roosevelt tér 9 • 411 61 00 • Open10am–4pm Mon–Fri Ironwork gates of Gresham Palace

Make a mid-morning start with coffee andcakes at the café in thesplendid foyer of theEthnographical Museum(see p75). Follow this witha leisurely stroll around thesuperb building, beforecrossing Kossuth LajosSquare (see p75) to thesensational HungarianParliament (see pp8–11).Here you can join one ofthe guided tours, whichare the only way to seethe building. After this,walk along the scenicDanube embankment toRoosevelt Square at thehead of the Chain Bridge(see p42). You can endwith a light lunch at theGresham Kávéház (seep78) on the terrace of theFour Seasons HotelGresham Palace.

A Day AroundParliament

Symmetrical façade of the State Opera House

Morning

AfternoonWalk along Zrinyi utca,one of Budapest’s foremostresidential streets, famousfor its smart Secessionist-style apartment buildings,to the magnificent StStephen’s Basilica (seepp12–13) on St Stephen’sSquare. Climb the steps tothe top of the church’sdome for splendid viewsof the city. Then head tothe State Opera House(see pp26–7), timing yourarrival to coincide with oneof the daily guided tours at3 and 4pm. Eat an earlydinner at the popularVörös és Fehér (see p52)and then prepare for anight at the Opera (makesure you reserve tickets inadvance). Afterwards, acoffee at M√vész Kávéház(see p79) will round off asplendid day.

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the barracks on 6 Oct 1849. Thesquare was also the site of the1956 protests against the SovietUnion. Today, an eternal flame atthe corner of Aulich utca andHold utca pays tribute to LajosBatthyány, while the statue on thenorthern side honours the Soviettroops who liberated the city in1944–5. d Map K2 • Szabadság tér

State Opera HouseThis stunning building is one

of Europe’s finest concert halls,and the best way to see it is byattending a performance. World-class operas and ballets are per-formed almost every evening,and tickets are reasonably priced(see pp26–7).

Operetta TheatreOperettas (one-act or light

operas) have been performed heresince 1898, when the building firstopened as the Orfeum Theatre.Designed by Viennese architectsFellner and Helmer, it was modi-fied and renamed the OperettaTheatre in 1923, as it provided ahome for the thriving operettascene. It was further renovatedin 1999–2001, but the interiorremained faithful to the originaldesign, with intimate boxes and a100-year-old chandelier. d Map M2 • V, Nagymezπ utca 17 • 472 20 30

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Left Vadász John Bull Pub, an authentic English pub Right Interior, Gresham Kávéház

Unless otherwise stated, all cafés and pubs are open daily. Pubsand bars usually remain open until about 1am.

Cafés and PubsGresham KávéházThe Gresham Kávéház

combines elegance with a relaxedatmosphere. A range of coffeesand teas are served with superbpastries and light meals. d MapK3 • V, Four Seasons Hotel GreshamPalace, Roosevelt tér 5–6 • 268 51 10

Old Man’s Music PubA great pub with live music

every night of the week. It isusually packed with revellers, andgetting served can sometimesbe difficult. d Map D4 • VII, Akácfautca 13 • 322 76 45 • Open 3pm–4am daily

Európa Kávéház This classic café is busy from

morning to night with people stop-ping by for breakfast, a lightlunch or a nightcap. d Map C2 • V,Szent István körút 7–9 • 312 23 62

BeckettsOne of the city’s best Irish

pubs, Becketts serves great pubfood along with Guinness all day,and there’s often live music onthe weekends. d Map L1 • V, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 72 • 311 10 33

Henry J Bean’s This pub flaunts

its Americana with carlicence plates andbaseball heroes cover-ing its walls. The foodis good – a range ofAmerican favourites,from ribs to burgers.d Map C2 • V, Szent Istvánkörút 13 • 302 31 12

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Mosselen Belgian Beer Café

Belgian beer and steaming potsof fresh mussels make this aBudapest favourite. The decor issuitably sober and Belgian, but theatmosphere is lively (see p55).

Picasso Point The ground floor of this

lively pub serves good, simplemeals through the week, whileon the weekends, the cellar turnsinto a disco after 11pm. d Map L2• VI, Hajós utca 31 • 312 17 27

RigolettoA bohemian cocktail bar

with an extensive drinks menu.You often spot Hungarian actors relaxing here with a margarita (see p55).

Vadász John Bull PubA good English pub serving

excellent food and originalEnglish ale. Visitors and expatsalike flock here to watch Britishfootball on Saturday afternoons.d Map L2 • V, Podmaniczky tér 4 • 269 31 16

Tokaji BorozóA Hungarian

wine bar dedicated tosweet dessert winesfrom the Tokaji label.Most patrons drop inon their way home fora glass, standing atthe bar in traditionalstyle. d Map C3 • V, FalkMiksa utca 30 • 269 31 43

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BelcantoYou’ll need a reservation for

this classy restaurant servinginventive Hungarian cuisine. Theservice and the wine list are excel-lent. d Map L2 • VI, Dalszínház utca 8 • 269 27 86 • Open 6pm–2am daily • FFFF

Sir LancelotThe city’s best themed

restaurant serves huge portionsof medieval dishes, from marrowbones and pork knuckles to wholegeese and chickens. d Map C3 • VI,Podmaniczky utca 14 • 302 44 56 • FFF

M√vész KávéházA small, intimate restaurant

serving hearty portions of goodHungarian food. d Map M2 • VI,Andrássy út 29 • 352 13 37 • Open9am–11:45pm daily • No credit cards • FF

Marquis de SaladeFeatured in every Budapest

guide book, this bistro serves arange of dishes from the coun-tries of the former Soviet Union,especially Azerbaijan, and includesa good vegetarian selection. d MapL2 • VI, Hajós utca 43 • 302 40 86 • FF

Café KorThis eatery is

legendary among theexpat community,who flock here forthe light meals, gooddrinks and great at-mosphere. d Map L3 • V, Sas utca 17 • 311 00 53• Open 11am–11pm Mon–Sat • No credit cards • FFF


La FontaineWithout the formality of many

French restaurants, La Fontainequietly goes about its business ofpreparing some of the city’s bestcuisine. The weekly specialscomplement the menu (see p52).

IguanaExcellent Tex-Mex fare in a

lively setting. Delicious fajitas,home-made tortillas and burritoscome in large portions at reason-able prices. d Map K2 • V, Zoltán utca16 • 301 02 15 • Dis. access • FFF

HannaOpen only at lunchtime and

reminiscent of a school canteen,Hanna is a legendary Kosher eat-ery. A perfect choice for a good,cheap lunch. d Map M3 • VII, Dobutca 35 • 342 10 72 • Open 11:30am–3pm Sun–Fri • FF

WabisabiEasily the best choice in

town for vegetarians, Wabisabi’sselection of Oriental vegan foodwill make you forget all aboutmeat. d Map C2 • XIII, Visegrádi utca 2• 412 04 27 • FF

Mare CroaticumThe fish dishes

are the main attrac-tion at this goodCroatian restaurant.Other specialitiesinclude cevap – small,spicy meatballs. d MapL1 • VI, Nagymezπ utca 49• 311 73 45 • FFF

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MOST VISITORS TO BUDAPEST head straight for this area, known asBelváros or the Inner City. It is the city’s commercial hub, and is filled

with fine buildings, shops and cafés. However, the area lay in ruins at theend of the 17th century, and was only redeveloped in the 19th century whenmany of Pest’s most important buildings were built, includingthe Hungarian National Museum. Today, many of the streetsand squares are entirely pedestrianized, making it anideal place for walking, shopping and dining outdoors. Infact, during the summer, the southern end of Váci utcabecomes a never-ending mêlée of cafés and pubs, withrevellers drinking on the pavement from dawn to dusk.

Previous pages: Boats anchored on the Danube

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1 Váci Utca

2 Vigadó Square

3 Inner City ParishChurch

4 Vörösmarty Square

5 Corvinus University of Budapest

6 Hungarian NationalMuseum

7 Museum of Applied Arts

8 Great Synagogue

9 Jewish Quarter

0 Mihály Pollack Square

Left Façade of the Vigadó Concert Hall Right Statue of poet János Arany, National Museum

Central Pest

Left Outdoor café on Váci utca Right One of the Great Synagogue’s twin towers

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Váci UtcaOne of Pest’s oldest streets,

Váci utca originally led to thetown of Vác (see p59). It has longbeen synonymous with tradersand swindlers, who clusteredaround Vác Gate at Váci utca 3.As Pest prospered, so did thestreet, and it soon became a fav-ourite among Budapest’s wealthycitizens. The goods stores gaveway to exclusive boutiques, andtoday it is the city’s most popu-lar shopping venue. The northernhalf is dominated by retail outletsand department stores, while itssouthern end was pedestrianizedbetween 1999 and 2000, and ishome to some of the area’s bestcafés and clubs (see pp14–15).

Vigadó SquareFacing the Danube, Vigadó

Square is one of Budapest’squietest spots. It is dominatedby the Vigadó Concert Hall, underwhose sublime colonnades visi-tors seek shade during hot sum-mer afternoons. Built from 1859to 1864 and designed by FrigyesFeszl, it replaced an earlier hallthat was destroyed during the1848–9 Uprising. The façade is awonder of arched windows,statues and busts.Taking pride of placeat the façade’s cen-tre is a Hungariancoat of arms. Thebuilding is currentlyclosed for renovationand is due to open inmid-2006. Facing theHall is the ModernistBudapest MarriottHotel (see p112),built in 1969. The jet-ties on the square’sembankment are thedeparture point forDanube river cruises.d Map K4 • V, Vigadó tér

Inner City Parish ChurchPest’s oldest church has a

long and troubled history. Theoriginal Roman-style structure wasdecimated by the Tartars, and its14th-century replacement wasconverted into a mosque by theTurks. It was nearly destroyedagain after World War II, whenbuilders wanted to demolish it tomake way for Elizabeth Bridge.Luckily, it survived, although theproximity of the approach road toits walls illustrates what a closecall it was. d Map K4 • V, Március 15tér 2 • 318 31 08 • Open 11am–7pmMon–Fri, 9am–7pm Sat & Sun

Vörösmarty SquareThis splendid pedestrian plaza

is named after the poet MihályVörösmarty, whose statuestands at its centre. Designed

by Ede Telcs and builtimmaculately in

Carrarra marble,the statue ralliesthe nation in thepoet’s own words:

“Your homeland,Hungary, serve

unwaveringly”. Thesquare’s northernside is dominated byGerbeaud Cukrászda(see p14), Hungary’smost famous coffeehouse. It is also worthvisiting the quaintmetro station. d MapK3 • V, Vörösmarty tér

Baroque portal, Inner City

Parish Church

Central Market Hall on Váci utca

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museum is the richestsource of art and artifactsanywhere in the country(see pp30–31).

Museum ofApplied Arts

The opening of thismuseum was the finaleof the city’s 1896 Millen-nium Celebrations. Builtto house the HungarianState’s sizeable collection

of art, the Secessionist buildingwas designed by Ödön Lechnerand Gyula Pártos. Its distinctlyEastern style is seen in thefaçade’s green domes and theglass-roofed courtyard. It featuresfine arts and crafts and traditionalcostumes. d Map D5 • IX, Üllπi út 33–7• 456 51 00 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun

Great SynagogueThe Great Synagogue is the

largest and most spectacular inEurope. Built in Byzantine styleby the Viennese architect LudwigFörster in 1854–9, it can houseover 3,000 people. Since 1931 ithas been home to the JewishMuseum (see p38), with relicsrelating to the history of the city’sJews. The rear courtyard has amemorial to the Holocaust. d Map M3 • VII, Dohány utca 2 • 342 8949 • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm Mon–Thu,10am–2pm Fri, Sun; Oct–Apr: 10am–3pmMon–Thu, 10am–2pm Fri, Sun • Adm

Stained-glass window, Applied Arts Museum

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Façade of the Corvinus University of Budapest

Corvinus University of Budapest

A Neo-Renaissance masterpiece,this University was built between1871 and 1874 to house the city’smain customs house. Designed byMiklós Ybl, its façade facing theDanube is set on three levels – acolonnade supporting a balcony,with two rows of arched windowsfacing the river. The balustradesupports 10 allegorical figuressculpted by August Sommer. Thebuilding became the University ofEconomics in 1951, when it wasnamed after Karl Marx; a statueof Marx remains in the atrium tothis day. In 2000, it merged withthe College of Public Adminis-tration and was renamed theCorvinus University of Budapest.d Map L6 • V, Fπvám tér 8 • 482 50 00

Hungarian NationalMuseum

The National Museum wasfounded in 1802, and owes itsexistence to Count FerencSzéchenyi (see p31), who donatedhis collections of books and artto the nation. The building wasdesigned by Mihály Pollack andcompleted in 1845. In 1848, itwas the scene of a historic event,when Sándor Petπfi recited hispoem Nemzeti Dal (National Song)from the steps, thus igniting theUprising of 1848–9. The event isre-enacted each year. The

Jewish QuarterThe Jewish Quarter is

bordered by Károly körút, Dohányutca, Kazinczy utca and Királyutca. Jews first settled inHungary in the 13th century, inthe area around Óbuda. In the19th century, a second wave ofJews arrived and settled in thisarea, which was outside Pest’scity walls at the time. The com-munity thrived until 1941, whenthe first anti-Semetic laws werepassed by Admiral Horthy’s pro-Nazi dictatorship. In 1944, thearea around the Great Synagoguebecame a ghetto from where tensof thousands of Jews were takento death camps. Today, it is hometo a small Jewish community withsynagogues, shops and Kosherrestaurants. d Map M3 • Zsidó Negyed

Mihály Pollack SquareNamed after the architect of

several Neo-Classical buildingsincluding the National Museum,this square is famous for its threepalaces, built for Hungary’swealthiest aristocrats – CountKárolyi at No. 6, Prince Eszterházyat No. 8 and Prince Festetics atNo. 10. The superb façades ofthe palaces (of which only theFestetics Palace is open to thepublic), make the square one ofthe most picturesque in the city.d Map D5 • V, Pollack Mihály tér

Tony CurtisAlthough Bernard Schwartz was

born in New York in 1925, his par-ents were well known Hungarianactors who performed at many of

Budapest’s theatres beforeemigrating to America in 1923.Bernard, of course, found fameunder his screen name, TonyCurtis, but he never forgot his

roots. He has long been a leadingface in the city’s international

marketing campaigns.

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A leisurely cup of coffeeon the terrace of theModernist BudapestMarriott Hotel (see p112)on Vigadó Square will setthe tone for the day per-fectly. Then walk a shortdistance east to Váci utca(see pp14–15), with itssuperb retail stores on thenorthern side, includingsouvenir stalls, high-endfashion brands and fineHungarian porcelain andcrystal at Goda (seep107). Next, visit Pest’soldest church, the InnerCity Parish Church (seep83) just off Szabad Sajtóút, before eating a lightlunch at Gambrinus in theTaverna hotel (see p113).

A Day in DowntownBudapest

Morning

AfternoonAfter lunch, either take themetro from Ferenciek tereup to Astoria or walk tenminutes along the busyKossuth Lajos utca to theGreat Synagogue onDohány utca. You can visitthe splendid Byzantine-inspired synagogue and itsexcellent Jewish Museum(see p38) before payingyour respects to the Jewskilled in the Holocaust atthe sobering HolocaustMemorial in the syna-gogue’s rear courtyard.Then set about exploringthe rest of the fascinatingJewish Quarter, which isknown for its little giftshops and quaint bookstores, as well as the farless ostentatious syna-gogues on Rumbach Sutca and Kazinczy utca.End your day with a deli-cious Middle-Easterndinner at the superbCarmel Pince restaurant(Kazinczy utca 31).

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Cafés and PubsGerbeaud CukrászdaBeautifully decorated cakes

complement the interior of thecity’s most famous café. EveryDecember, there is an advent cal-endar window display (see p14).

Irish Cat PubOne of the city’s best Irish

pubs, the Irish Cat features goodfry-ups, a friendly crowd and livemusic most evenings (see p54).

1000 TeaThis café has a wide selection

of teas from all over the world.With soothing music, it is theperfect place to while away longafternoons. d Map L5 • V, Váci utca 65• 337 82 17 • Open noon–9pm Mon–Sat

Cha-Cha-ChaThis eternal student favourite

has the unlikely setting of a metrostation. It is a smoky bar wherethe drinks are cheap, the decorappalling, but the atmospheresecond-to-none. d Map M5 • IX,Kálvin tér underpass • 215 05 45 • Open9am–11pm Mon–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat

KalamajkaDance House

If it’s Hungarian folkmusic you want, lookno further than thisplace. Although itcaters mainly totourists, everyonealways appears to behaving a great time.d Map K2 • V, AranyJános utca 10 • 311 22 48

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Left Interior, Gerbeaud Cukrászda Right Entrance to Janis’ Pub

Unless otherwise stated, all cafés and pubs are open daily. Pubs and bars usually remain open until about 1am.

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Fregatt PubOpened in 1985, this popular

pub is known for the quality blues,bluegrass and jazz bands whichperform here most nights. Thefood is good too. d Map L5 • V, Mol-nár utca 26 • 318 99 97 • Open 4pm–2amWed–Sat, 4pm–midnight Sun–Tue

Janis’ PubAn English-style music pub

named after singer Janis Joplin.Performers entertain the crowdson most nights, and the Hungarianfood is good. d Map M5 • V, Királyi Pálutca 8 • 266 26 19 • Open 4pm–2am Mon–Thu, 4pm–3am Fri, Sat, 6pm–midnight Sun

Paris, TexasA late-night favourite of the

city’s trendy set, who like to stopfor a nightcap on their way home.The Texan link is reinforced by themalt whiskies on offer. d Map D5 • IX, Ráday utca 22 • 218 05 70 • Open10am–3am Mon–Fri, 1pm–3am Sat & Sun

Ba BarA chic café and lounge bar

with an airy interior and superblighting. The lounge area haswhite bean bags and low wooden

tables (see p54).

Café AstoriaOnce Budapest’s

most elegant café,the Astoria still man-ages to turn a cup ofcoffee into a majorevent. d Map M4 • V, Kossuth Lajos utca19–21 • 889 60 22

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Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants and cafés are open daily –usually between 11:30am and midnight – and accept credit cards.

RestaurantsSzázévesEstablished in 1831, the city’s

oldest restaurant still serves excel-lent Hungarian cuisine in a fineBaroque building. d Map K4 • V,Pesti Barnabás utca 2 • 266 52 40 • FFFF

Vörös és FehérWine flows freely at this

fine Mediterranean restaurant,whose name means red andwhite, after the wine it serves. It was founded by the BudapestWine Society (see p52).

KulacsVisit this restaurant for its

enormous portions of first-classHungarian food and lively Gypsyband. d Map E4 • VII, Osvát utca 11 • 322 36 11 • FFFF

Kaltenberg Royal Bavarian Brasserie

Beer hall serving Bavarian dishesand jugs of home-brewed beer.Live accordion and sing-a-longmusic make for a great atmos-phere. d Map D5 • IX, Kinizsi utca 30–36 • 215 97 92 • Open 7am–midnightdaily • FF

Múzeum Kávé-ház és Étterem

This 1855 coffeehouse situated next tothe National Museumserves Hungarian spe-cialities worthy of itshistoric setting. d MapM4 • VIII, Múzeum körút 12• 338 42 21 • Open noon–midnight Mon–Sat • FFFFF

Smart interior of Centrál Kávéház

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Mátyás PinceThis 1904 restaurant has fine

mosaics and stained-glass win-dows and serves exceptional Hun-garian food. d Map K4 • V, Március 15tér 7 • 318 16 93 • FFFF

Lou LouThe food at this elegant

eatery is modern French, with atwist of Hungarian. A superb winelist complements the menu. d Map K2 • V, Vigyázó Ferenc utca 4 • 312 45 05 • Open noon–3pm & 7pm–11pm Mon–Fri, 7pm–11pm Sat • FFFF

EmpireSublime dining room in the

Astoria hotel, where Germanforces set up camp during WorldWar II. The food – a mix of inter-national and Hungarian – is good.d Map M4 • Kossuth Lajos utca 19 • 88960 22 • Dis. access • FFF

KárpátiaServing classic dishes in

historic surroundings, the Kárpátiais a contender for the title ofBudapest’s best Hungarian res-taurant. d Map L4 • V, Ferenciek tere7–8 • 317 35 96 • Dis. access • FFFF

CentrálKávéház

Standing on the siteof an 1880s coffeeshop, the recentlyrestored CentrálKávéház is a Budapestfavourite. d Map L4 • V, Károlyi Mihály utca 9 • 266 21 10 • FFF

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HOME TO SOME OF THE FINEST BUILDINGS and widest boulevards inBudapest, the area around Városliget (City Park) is where the city has

long come to play. From the cafés and bistros of Liszt Ferenc tér and the man-sions of Andrássy út and Városligeti fasor, to the huge City Park itself – frontedby the magnificent Millennium Monument – everything is built on a splendidlygrand scale. Városliget was chosen as the centre of the city’s 1896 MillenniumCelebrations, and among themagnificent buildings constructedat the time were the Museum ofFine Arts and Vajdahunyad Castle.

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1 Museum of Fine Arts

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7 Heroes’ Square

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Left Hungarian crest decorating the façade, Palace of Art Right Heroes’ Square

Around Városliget

Left Museum of Fine Arts Right Millennium Monument, dominating Heroes’ Square

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Museum of Fine ArtsHungary’s largest collection

of international art is housed in a1906 building designed by FülöpHerzog and Albert Schikendanz.It has works by Raphael, Bruegel,Goya and Velazquez, as well as thelargest collection of El Grecos out-side Spain. d Map E2 • XIV, Hπsöktere, Dózsa György út 41 • 469 71 00 • Open 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun • Dis.access • www.szepmuveszeti.hu

Vajdahunyad CastleIn the middle of Városliget is

the incredible Vajdahunyad Castle,a mixture of Renaissance, Gothic,Baroque and Romanesque styles,designed by Ignác Alpár for theMillennium Celebrations. Alpár’sidea was to illustrate the evolu-tion of Hungarian architecture ina single building. Each sectionreflects an important building; forexample, the Romanesque sec-tion is a copy of a chapel in Ják.All in all, the castle representsmore than 20 famous Hungarianbuildings. The Museum of Agri-culture in the Baroque section isthe only part that is open to thepublic. d Map F2 • Museum ofAgriculture: 363 19 73; open 1 Apr–31 Oct:10am–5pm daily; 1 Nov–31 Mar: 10am–4pm Mon–Fri,10am–5pm Sat &Sun; adm

Széchenyi BathsOpened in 1913, Széchenyi

is a vast complex of indoor andoutpoor pools, which includeHungary’s deepest and hottestthermal baths. Immensely popu-lar in winter and summer, this iswhere to come if you’re lookingfor the classic Hungarian bathingexperience. d Map F2 • XIV, Állatkertiút 11 • 363 32 10 • Open May–Sep: 6am–7pm daily; Oct–Apr: 6am–5pm daily • Adm Ft2,300 • www.budapestspas.hu

Andrássy StreetA long, wide boulevard from

Városliget to the city centre,Andrássy út is Budapest’s mostexclusive address. It is lined withfine restaurants, theatres andshops, as well as the State Opera(see pp26–7) and DreschslerPalace. At No. 60 lies the formerheadquarters of theÁVO, the Hungarian

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Neo-Baroque façade, Széchenyi Baths

View across the lake of the Gothic (left) and Renaissance (right) sections of Vajdahunyad Castle

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The elegant Andrássy Street

Communist secret police whoused the building from 1945 to1956. Today, it is a museumknown as the House of Terror thatdepicts the horrors of the Naziand Soviet regimes. d Map L2, M2• House of Terror: XIV, Andrássy út 60; 37426 00; open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; adm

Franz Liszt MuseumMore famously known by his

Germanic name, Franz, FerencLiszt was Hungary’s greatestcomposer. He lived here from1877 until he died in 1896. Abovethe second-floor windows are bas-reliefs depicting famous compo-sers, from Bach and Mozart toBeethoven and Liszt himself. Thehouse became a museum in 1896and the furniture, pianosand manuscripts give aninsight into the life andwork of this extraordinaryman. d Map D3 • VI, Vörösmartyutca 35 • 322 98 04 • Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 9am–5pm Sat • Adm • www.lisztmuseum.hu

Városligeti AvenueA serene tree-lined

avenue, Városligeti fasoris the gentle counterpartto the more commercial

Andrássy út. Numerous embassies line the avenue, andthere are also several museums,including the Ráth GyörgyMuseum of Far Eastern Art thathouses artifacts from China andJapan brought by 19th-centuryHungarian traders. The streetalso has two significant churches:a plain Calvinist Church at thesouthern end and the morefetching Lutheran Churchtowards Városliget. d Map E3

Heroes’ SquareCommunist demonstrations

once took place in the vast openspace of Heroes’ Square. In fact,the square predates Hungary’sCommunist era and was originallylaid out for the Millennium Cele-brations of 1896. Today, peoplecome to visit the MillenniumMonument at the square’s centre,while traffic runs through itssouthern side. It is flanked by twosplendid buildings – the Museumof Fine Arts (see p89) and thePalace of Art. d Map E2 • Hπsök tere

Millennium MonumentStanding at the heart of

Heroes’ Square, the MillenniumMonument was erected tocommemorate the 1,000-yearanniversary of the conquest of theCarpathian Basin by the Magyars.At the top of the 36-m (110-ft)

Original furnishings in the salon, Franz Liszt Museum

Várolisget is a great placefor a family outing. Startoff early with a dip inBudapest’s most popularthermal baths, Széchenyi(see p89), situated right inthe middle of Városligetwith its own metro stationon the Lilliputian Millen-nium line. Refreshed, youcan then take the kids nextdoor to the Budapest Zoo,to admire both animalsand buildings. Just northof the zoo is the park’sFunfair (see p45), with anassortment of rides. Thiswill keep everyone happytill lunch, which can beeaten on the go from oneof the funfair’s numeroussnack bars. Try kolbász –Hungarian sausages eatenby hand, that taste all thebetter for it.

A Day in City Park

Morning

AfternoonStart the afternoon off atthe Museum of Fine Arts(see p89) at the edge ofthe park in Heroes’ Square.Although you could spendall afternoon here, try torestrict yourself to an hourand a half, but don’t missthe Raphael Madonna orthe fabulous collection ofEl Grecos. Then, doubleback to the park to theTransport Museum (seep44), where children loveclimbing over old railwaywagons and buses. Next,admire the architecture of Vajdahunyad Castle,ideally from a rowing boaton the park’s central lake.If you are visiting in winter,you can take your kids iceskating on the lake (seep44). Finally, end the daywith a superb familydinner at Robinson (seep93), one of Budapest’smost famous restaurants.

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The Millennium ExhibitionMuch of Városliget, including the

monument that marks itsentrance, was built for the 1896Millennium Exhibition, that cele-brated a 1,000 years since Árpádinhabited the area near Budapest.Besides the monuments aroundVárosliget, the exhibition saw theopening of the millennium metroline – Continental Europe’s first,the installation of the city’s first

gas lights, and the construction ofan innumerable number of

Secessionist buildings.

column is a statue of theArchangel Gabriel, who allegedlyappeared before St Stephen(István) and offered him thecrown. At the foot of the columnare seven chieftains, representingthe seven tribes who settled inHungary. d Map E2 • XIV, Hπsök tere

Palace of ArtFacing the Museum of Fine

Arts, the Palace of Art was com-pleted in 1895. The imposingbuilding, dominated by its porticowith six supporting columns, wasdesigned by Fülöp Herzog andAlbert Schikendanz. Today, ithouses temporary exhibitions andconcerts. d Map E2 • XIV, Hπsök tere • 363 26 71 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Wed& Fri–Sun, noon–8pm Thu • Adm

Budapest ZooOver 130 years old, the city’s

zoo is one of the best in CentralEurope, and is known for its largeprimate house. There is a chil-dren’s zoo where tamer animalscan be petted, and various showsare held twice a day. Most of theanimal houses are listed build-ings, erected between 1909 and1911 in late-Secessionist style.d Map E2 • XIV, Városliget, Állatkerti körút6–12 • 363 37 10 • Open Nov–Feb: 9am–4pm daily; Mar–Oct: 9am–6pm daily • Adm

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Cafés and PubsMozart CaféThe Mozart theme may be a

trifle overdone (the walls areadorned with scenes from thecomposer’s life), but for coffeeconnoisseurs, this could be thebest place in town. d Map D4 • VII,Erzsébet körút 36 • 352 06 64

Piaf Club where the drinks are

pricey, the ambience is exclusiveand the decor utterly Bohemian. d Map M2 • VI, Nagymezπ utca 25 • 31238 23 • Open 10pm–6am daily

Pesti Est CaféLarge café belonging to the

Pesti Est listings magazine. It’s allabout trendy hairdos, cocktails,music and great prices. d Map M2 • VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 5 • 344 43 81

Mediterran Another Liszt Ferenc tér café

and bar known for its largesummer terrace, sangria, andbright orange decor (see p55).

VianCoffee, cocktails, pastas and

salads make Vian a one-stop shop.Enjoy the night out on the terraceand watch the world go by. d MapM2 • VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 9 • 268 11 54

MenzaRestaurant and coffee house

in retro colours and a futuristicdesign. The food takes secondplace to the drinks – that’s howthe regulars like it. d Map M2 • VI,Liszt Ferenc tér 2 • 413 14 82

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venue on Liszt Ferenc tér, this isa great place to meet people anddrink cocktails. The music isstrictly jazz. d Map M1 • VI, LisztFerenc tér 3 • 342 14 71

KarmaSuperb café with great

Tandoori food and more cocktailsthan you can count. The decor isEastern, with Buddhas andHindu gods at every turn. d MapM2 • VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 11 • 413 67 64

Bajor SörsátorHungarian beer house where

drinking is taken very seriously.Wine served directly from barrelsis also available. d Map F2 • XIV,Kós Károly sétány • 363 19 04

Lukács CaféLegendary 19th-century café,

recently restored to its originalsplendour. The coffees and home-made pastries are excellent. d MapD3 • VI, Andrássy út 70 • 302 87 47

Unless otherwise stated, all cafés and pubs are open daily.Pubs and bars usually remain open until about 1am.

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RestaurantsGundelProbably Hungary’s most

famous restaurant and certainlyone of the most expensive,Gundel’s food is traditional, yetadventurous (see p52).

Hax’n KirályThis Teutonic eatery is

known for sausages and wurstwith sauerkraut. Lederhosen-attired men play the accordion asyou eat. d Map D3 • VI, Király utca 100• 351 67 93 • FFFFF

Buena VistaLocated among Városliget’s

many bars is the Mediterranean-influenced Buena Vista. It is bestto dine indoors before headingoutside for drinks. d Map M2 • VI,Liszt Ferenc tér 4–5 • 344 63 03 • FFF

Wall StreetThis restaurant and bar offers

seasonal specialities and fabu-lous cocktails. Live jazz everyWednesday and Friday eveningcomplements the fare. d Map M2 • VI, Andrássy út 19 • 322 78 96 • FFF

BagolyvárRun entirely by women, the

Owl’s Castle serves wholesomeHungarian food in a Transylvanian-style villa. d Map E2 • XIV, Állatkertiút 2 • 468 31 10 • Dis. access • FFF

PremierIntimate restaurant with great

seafood on offer, while light pianomusic soothes the soul. d Map E2• VI, Andrássy út 101 • 342 17 68 • FFF

Giant accordians hang from the ceiling at Hax’n Király restaurant

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ZebranoTrendy spot in the Bauhaus-

style Andrássy Hotel. The menu isa delight of light, Mediterraneanfood. d Map M2 • Andrássy út 111 • 46221 00 • Open 24-hrs • Dis. access • FFF

1894 BorvendéglπGundel Palace’s convivial

wine cellar is a great place to trylocal wines. The restored vaultedceilings feature period lighting. d Map E2 • XIV, Állatkerti út 2 • 468 4044 • Open 6pm–midnight Mon–Sat • FFFF

RobinsonSet on a tiny island, Robinson

is perfect if you like fresh fish andan informal ambience. The terraceoffers terrific views of the lake. d Map E2 • XIV, Városligeti-tó (City ParkLake) • 422 02 22 • Dis. access • FFFF

MaharajaMaharaja’s authentic curries,

subtly flavoured with herbs andspices, will delight fans of Indiancuisine. d Map D3 • VI, Csengery utca24 • 351 12 89 • FFF

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JewishCemeteryPeople's Park

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WHILE THE CITY CENTRE has enough to keep most visitors happy for

weeks, Budapest’s suburbs have now spread out almost endlessly into

the surrounding Pannonian plains and incorporate some extraordinary sights.

These include the former Roman city of Aquincum, which is today bordered by

a train line and a highway, as well as the former Roman garrison at Óbuda

to the southwest. The Buda Hills, once some distance from the city, now have

villas and apartment

blocks in their foothills,

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limestone caves at Pál-

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1 Buda Hills

2 Aquincum

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Left Public baths at Aquincum Right Glasshouses in the Botanical Gardens

Greater Budapest

6 People’s Park

7 Geology Institute

8 Jewish Cemetery

9 Botanical Gardens

0 Railway History Park

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Buda HillsThe forested Buda Hills to

the west of the city make an idealgetaway (see p97). The best wayto reach them is to take theSzéchenyi Hill Cog Railway (seep44), which begins at Fasor tér.At the top, a short walk leads tothe huge TV tower. The Children’sRailway (see p44) begins at thebase of the tower and meandersthrough the Buda Hills to its ter-minus at H√vös Valley. En routeis the Erzsébet Look-Out Tower,which has a chairlift that takes youback to Buda. It was constructedby Frigyes Schulek in 1910, butthe purpose for which it was builtremains a mystery. d Map N1

AquincumThe capital of the Roman

province of Pannonia, Aquincumwas for centuries the largest cityin Central Europe. Excavated inthe 19th century, it is today oneof the city’s most popular sights.Though little of the town remains,the outlines of the streets andbuildings are clearly visible, andvisitors can imagine what it musthave been like as a bustling city.The museum, located inside aNeo-Classical Lapidarium, housesRoman artifacts found at thesite, as well as models showingwhat the town once looked like.d Map P1 • III, Szentendrei út 139 • Open15 Apr–31 Oct: 10am–5pm daily • Adm

Törley MausoleumWidely recognized as the

father of the Hungarian wineindustry, József Törley studiedthe art of wine-making in Reims,France. He returned to Hungaryin the 1880s, and set about pro-ducing superb sparkling wine inBudafok, a Budapest suburb. Hiswine sold well, making him enor-mously wealthy, and when hedied in 1900, he was laid to restin this mausoleum, designed byRezsπ Vilmos Ray. Betraying clearOttoman influences, it is coveredin Eastern motifs and bas-reliefsand could almost be mistaken fora mosque. d Map P3 • XII, Sarló út 6

Szemlπ-hegy CavesKnown to many as the city

of thermal waters, Budapest isalso known for its caves. Northof the city centre are the PilisHills, home to several fabulouscave systems. The Szemlπ-hegyCaves are the closest to the city,on bus route No. 11 from Batth-yány tér. The entrance is a non-descript building that barely hintsat the wonders it hides. The cavesfeature splendid formations calledcave pearls that look like bunchesof grapes growing out of the rock.

The Ottoman-style Törley Mausoleum

Central heating system, Aquincum

96

These are produced when hotsprings penetrate the limestone.The air here is said to be ther-apeutic for bronchial infections.d Map N1 • II, Pusztaszeri út 35 • 325 6001 • Open 10am–4pm Wed–Mon • Adm

Pál-völgy CavesA hut at the foot of a steep

cliff marks the entrance to thePál-völgy Caves. As well as thecave pearl formations that are alsofound in Szemlπ-hegy, Pál-völgy isknown for its formations that aresaid to resemble animals. Thoughmany of the caves are accessible,and can be visited via stairs andgalleries, several of the morespectacular formations can onlybe seen by joining a guided tour.Note that temperatures insidethe caves can be chilly, even ifthe heat outside is unbearable. d Map N1 • II, Szépvölgyi út 162 • 32595 05 • Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun • Adm

People’s ParkThe city’s largest park,

Népliget was laid out in the 1860sand covers an area of 112 ha (277acres). It has large tracts of grassand trees, as well as flower bedsand playgrounds. It is also hometo Budapest’s Planetarium (seep45). Népliget was also the site

of the city’s first motor racingtrack, and even hosted a GrandPrix in 1936, when Tazio Nuvolariwon in his Alfa Romeo. The trackfell into disuse after 1972 andwhen Hungary decided to hostFormula One in the 1980s, a newtrack, Hungaroring, was built out-side town. d Map P2 • VIII, Népliget

Geology InstituteAn astonishing building

opposite Hungary’s NationalStadium, the beautiful GeologyInstitute was designed by ÖdönLechner and built in 1898–9. Itsroof is covered in blue Zsolnaytiles and crowned by a statue ofthree figures struggling to hold aglobe. Inside, is a museum ofrock and mineral exhibits, thoughLechner’s Secessionist interior isfar more interesting. d Map P2 • XIV, Stefánia út 14 • 251 09 99 • Open10am–4pm Thu, Sat & Sun • Adm

Jewish CemeteryOpened in 1893 and full of

wonderfully elaborate tombs, thiscemetery is a stark reminder ofthe wealth and influence wieldedby Budapest’s Jews before WorldWar II. Some of the tombs weredesigned by leading architects,including Ödön Lechner and GyulaFodor. d Map Q2 • XVII, Kozma út • Open 8am–2pm Sun–Fri

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The dramatic Szemlπ-hegy Caves

The Marvellous MagyarsIt may seem far-fetched, but

Hungary once had the most giftedfootball team in the world. The

legendary Ferenc Puskás led RealMadrid to three of their five

European Cup triumphs afterdefecting to Spain. Before he leftin 1956, Hungary became the first

ever European team to defeatEngland. The English press dubbed

them the “Marvellous Magyars”and Puskás the “Galloping Major”

as he was once a major in theHungarian army.

Botanical GardensSpread over 3 ha (8 acres) in

eastern Budapest, the BotanicalGardens offer splendid relief fromthe bustle of the city centre. Thegardens are part of BudapestUniversity, though they werefirst laid out by the Festeticsfamily, who lived in the Neo-Classical villa that is now theadministration centre. Thegardens are renowned for theirextensive collection of palmtrees. d Map E6 • VIII, Illés utca 25 • 314 05 35 • Open 9am–5pm daily • Adm

Railway History ParkLocomotives, luxury dining

cars, passenger wagons and theRoyal Hungarian Express are allon display at this open-air park,set around a few old railwaysidings and sheds. You can drivean engine, ride on a railway turn-table, work a hand-cart, havelunch in a dining car and then playwith model trains for the rest ofthe day. From April to October,you can get to and from the parkby taking the steam train fromKeleti Station. The park alsoarranges steam train rides invintage wagons to Kosice inSlovakia and Krakow in Poland.In September, it organizes aSteam Train Grand Prix, withcompetitors coming from all overEurope. d Map P1 • XIV, Tatai út 95 • 450 14 97 • Open 15 Mar–31 Mar: 10am–3pm Tue–Sun; 1 Apr–29 Oct: 10am–6pmTue–Sun; 30 Oct–17 Dec: 10am–3pmTue–Sun • Adm

A Day in the Buda Hills

Morning

A family day out at the Railway History Park

97

Start the day by taking busNo. 158 from Moszkva térto its terminus at the footof the Libegπ (chair-lift),which gently takes you upto the summit of JánosHill. From here, it is a short walk to theChildren’s Railway (seep44), a splendid relic ofHungary’s Communistpast. As the train mean-ders through the hills, youcan stop-off and climb tothe top of the extra-ordinary Erzsébet Look-Out Tower (see p95) forsensational views of thecity below. Then take thesteam train which leaveson the hour throughoutsummer. Get off atSzépjuhászné Stationand try the station’s superoutdoor café for lunch.

AfternoonSet off on a well-markedpath to the BudakesziWildlife Park (023 45 1783; www.vadaspark-budakeszi.hu). Occupyingan area of 327 ha (808acres), it has a widevariety of animals to see,from wild boars – whichalso roam freely in thesurrounding countryside –to packs of wolves. Thereis also a separate reservefor plantlife. Take thepark’s walking safari tourto visit its best sections.Budakeszi’s own restau-rant is a great place fordinner, and there is livelyfolk music every eveningafter 6pm. As theChildren’s Railway willalmost certainly be closedby the time you finisheating, you can take busNo. 22 from outside thepark straight back toMoszkva tér.

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The Budakeszi Park is open Mar–Oct: 9am–4pm Mon–Fri, 9am–5pmSat & Sun; Nov–Feb: 9am–3pm daily. It also has an admission fee.

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Best of the RestTropicarium-OceanariumYou can stare into the eyes of

a shark or touch a snake at thisaquarium and indoor tropical rain-forest that is a favourite with kids.d Map N3 • XXII, Nagytétényí út 37–45 • 424 30 53 • Open 10am–8pm daily • Adm

Óbuda AmphitheatreDating from around AD 140–

150, this amphitheatre still hastwo arched entrances as well astunnels from where wild animalsentered. d Map P1 • III, Bécsi út

Aquincum AmphitheatreOnce packed with 10,000

spectators, the now-ruined amphi-theatre lies sandwiched betweenthe HÉV railway and a main road.d Map P1 • III, Szentendrei út

AqueductA restored section of the

2nd-century aqueduct that carriedwater from Óbuda to Aquincumlies to the east of Szentendrei út.d Map P1 • III, Szentendrei út

Flórián SquareThe underpass below this

square cradles Óbuda’s RomanBaths and Roman SettlementMuseum. d Map P1; Flórián tér • Roman Baths & Roman SettlementMuseum: open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun

Kassák MuseumHoused in Vichy Palace, this

museum showcases the worksof avant-garde artist, Lajos Kassák.d Map P1 • III, Fπ tér 1 • 368 70 21 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • Adm

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Left Óbuda Amphitheatre Right The Saxon-style Wekerle Estate

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Gizi Bajor Theatre MuseumThe memorabilia at the for-

mer villa of actress Gizi Bajorhonours Hungary’s screen andstage stars. Exhibits include cos-tumes, props and scripts. d MapN2 • XII, Stromfeld Aurél út 16 • 356 4294 • Open 2pm–6pm Tue–Sun • Adm

Nagytétény PalaceA design museum featuring

classic furniture, housed in one ofHungary’s best Baroque palaces.d Map N3 • XXII, Kastélypark utca 9–11 • 207 54 62 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun

Ludovika AcademyThis former military school is

now home to the Natural HistoryMuseum, where kids can touchreal skulls, bones and feathers.d Map P2 • X, Ludovika tér 2–6 • 210 1085 • Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon

Wekerle EstateCentral Europe’s first

Garden City, this estate wasinspired by Transylvania’s Saxonvillages. Property here is nowmuch sought after. d Map P2 • XIX, Kós Károly tér

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Unless otherwise stated, all eateries are open daily and accept creditcards. Restaurants are usually open between 11:30am and midnight.

Restaurants and CafésKisbuda Gyöngye ÉtteremA lovely restaurant, with

scatty decor, a lounge atmosphereand classic Hungarian cuisineserved by a friendly staff. Reser-vations are essential (see p53).

KehliFor over a century, Kehli has

served old-style Hungarian food,from the period before paprikawas widely used. Reservationsrequired. d Map P1 • III, Mókus utca 22• 250 42 41 • Dis. access • FFF

Vörös PostakocsiServing classic Hungarian

food, the Red Mail Wagon exudeselegance despite some question-able art on its walls. For an inti-mate meal, ask to be seated inthe library room. d Map P2 • IX, Áday utca 15 • 217 67 56 • FFF

Chez DanielExcellent French cuisine,

fabulous service and a desirablewine list. d Map D3 • VI, Szív utca 32 • 302 40 39 • FFF

Öreghalász ÉtteremA nautical-themed restaurant

with a convivial atmosphere. Itspecializes in fish and has five sea-food soups on the menu. d Map P1• IV, Árpád út 20 • 390 44 02 • FF

Náncsi NéniFantastic Hungarian eatery

specializing in seasonal dishesthat only use farm-fresh ingre-dients. d Map N1 • II, Ördögárok út 80 • 397 27 42 • Dis. access • FF

Relaxed interior of Kisbuda Gyöngye Étterem

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KriziaFresh pasta made daily on the

premises, good vegetarian optionsand terrific desserts set Kriziaapart from other Italian restau-rants. d Map M1 • VI, Mozsár utca 12 • 331 87 11 • FFFF

King Arthur’sThemed eatery in a shopping

mall that shouldn’t be as good asit is. The food comes in hugeportions. d Map P1 • III, Bécsi út 38–44(2nd floor, Új Udvar Shopping Centre) • 437 82 43 • Dis. access • FFF

JardinetteExquisite French food served

around a lovely garden. The winecellar is one of the city’s best andthe playground keeps the kidshappy. d Map N2 • XII, Német Völgyi út136 • 248 16 52 • FFFF

Taj MahalIf the urge to go Indian grabs

you, this is the only place to eat.The menu covers most Indiandishes including chicken, lamb andvegetarian. d Map D2 • VI, Szondi utca40 • 301 04 47 • Open Tue–Sun • FFF

STREETSMARTPlanning Your Visit

102

Getting to Budapest103

Getting Around Budapest

104

Useful Information105

Things to Avoid106

Shopping Tips107

Eating and Drinking Tips108

Budapest on a Budget109

Banking andCommunications

110

Security and Health111

Places to Stay112–117

BUDAPEST’S TOP 10

102

Planning Your VisitWhen to GoSpring and autumn

are the best times to visitBudapest, as tempera-tures are fairly mild. Likemost Central Europeancapitals, the summermonths get very busy,and finding a hotel roomcan be difficult. Summercan also be stiflingly hot.Christmas, however, is adelight, and almostalways white, though itcan get very cold.

Peak SeasonsThe peak season is

between July and August.Many locals actuallyleave Budapest in Augustfor their own holidays, andthe city can often feel asthough it is populatedentirely by tourists.Formula One weekend at the end of July is thesingle biggest event ofthe year, when hotelrooms are at their mostexpensive. Avoid itunless you are planningto attend the race.

What to PackPack lightly for

summer, but make sureyou bring a waterproofjacket or raincoat – whiletemperatures are high,there are frequent, heavyshowers. In winter, youwill need plenty of layersto cope with the extremeclimate. Hat, gloves andgood footwear are alsoneeded. If you plan onattending the opera orvisiting certain top-endrestaurants, men mightrequire a jacket and tie.

items into the country –200 cigarettes, 2 litres ofwine, 1 litre of spirits andFt350,000 worth of gifts.There are no limits onthe import of goods fromanother EU country.

ElectricityThe Hungarian

electricity supply is 220 Vand the plugs needed arethe standard Continentaltype. Visitors from theUK and North Americawill need an adaptor,available at most airports.

MapsThere are a number

of good Budapest mapsavailable internationally,notably the Cartographia1:20,000 series.

Time ZoneHungary is in the

Central European TimeZone, which means thatit is one hour ahead ofGreenwich Mean Time in winter and two hoursahead in summer, sixhours ahead of USEastern Standard Timeand 11 hours behindAustralian EasternStandard Time.

Stre

etsm

art

DirectoryMalév • 235 38 88;www.malev.com

Budget Airlines• airberlin.de• www.easyjet.com• www.skyeurope.com• www.wizzair.com

Passports and Visas

Citizens of other EuropeanUnion (EU) and EuropeanEconomic Area (EEA)countries may enterHungary without a visaand stay for as long asthey please, though theyshould register with thelocal authorities after 90days. US, Canadian,Australian, New Zealand,Bulgarian, Croatian andRomanian citizens mayalso enter without a visaand stay for 90 days.Citizens of almost allother countries require avisa from a Hungarianconsulate before visiting.

Travel InsuranceLocal healthcare is

excellent and Hungaryhas reciprocal healthcarearrangements with anumber of countries.However, you should stillmake sure that you haveadequate travel insurancewhich includes health,trip cancellation, flightdelay and lost luggage.

AirlinesThe national airline is

Malév, which flies fromBudapest to over 60 des-tinations, including NewYork and Beijing. The cityis also a hub for a numberof budget airlines, includ-ing Wizzair, Sky Europe,Air Berlin and easyJet.

CustomsIf arriving from

outside the EU, besidespersonal belongings youcan bring the following

Left Hungarian national airline, Malév Centre Tourists in Szentháromság tér Right Two pin plug

Previous pages: Lively cafés and bars in central Budapest

103

stations – one in Budaand two in Pest – andeach has connections tothe metro system.

Keleti StationHungary’s biggest

railway station, Keletiserves eastern Hungaryand Eastern Europe,though some services toBalaton and Vienna alsooperate from here. Thereare direct trains to Buch-arest, Sofia, Thessaloniki,Krakow, Warsaw andMoscow. The station is 3km (2 miles) east of thecentre, on metro line M2.

Nyugati StationThe station closest to

the city centre, Nyugatihas trains to Vienna andBratislava and other des-tinations in WesternEurope. Metro line M3also stops here.

Déli StationTrains to and from

Déli Station mainly serveLake Balaton, Zagreb,Ljubljana and Venice. It is on metro line M2.

By CoachThe cheapest way to

get to Budapest is bycoach, and the city is ser-ved by companies all overEurope. All internationalcoaches arrive at NépligetBus Station in Pest, whichis close to Népliget metrostation on line M3.

By CarBudapest is 250 km

(155 miles) from Vienna,and the M1 motorway

By AirOver 40 international

airlines now fly to Buda-pest, besides the nationalcarrier, Malév (see p102).All flights land at FerihegyInternational Airport.Flights from London takearound two hours, whileflights from New Yorktake about nine hours.

Ferihegy AirportFerihegy International

Airport has three terminalsin two locations – Ferihegy1 is for budget airlines andis a short drive from theother terminals (linked byshuttle bus). Ferihegy 2ais for Malev, while 2b isfor all other airlines. Thereare currency exchangesand desks for car rentalcompanies including Avis,Hertz, Europcar and Sixt.

From the AirportFerihegy Airport lies

about 16 km (10 miles)from the city centre. Foraround Ft2,300 the AirportShuttle Minibus will takeyou anywhere in the citycentre. Airport taxis (seep104) will take you any-where in the city for a flatfee (Ft4,500 to the centre,Ft6,000 for the Buda sideof the river) – confirm theprice beforehand. Thereis a public bus, identifiedby its BKV Plusz Reptersign, to Kπbánya-Kispestmetro station nearby.

By TrainBudapest has rail

connections to more than25 other capitals. Thereare three international

brings you to within thecity limits. Since Hungaryjoined the EU in 2004, ithas become easier todrive here, as there arenow only cursory pass-port checks at theAustria-Hungary andSlovakia-Hungary bor-ders. Expect long queuesat the road entry pointsfrom Croatia, Romaniaand the Ukraine.

By BoatArriving by boat is

the most stylish way tomake your entrance tothe city. During summer,there are hydrofoil ser-vices from Vienna andBratislava, which arrive at Vigadó tér (see p42).

Getting to Budapest

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Left Train at Déli Station Right Luxury air-conditioned tourist coach

The ferry pier at Vigadó tér is just a short walk from the citycentre on the Pest side of the river.

DirectoryFerihegy Airport• 296 96 96; 296 70 00

Train Information• 461 55 00;www.elvira.hu• MÁV (Hungarian Rail-ways): 06 40 49 49 49

Coach Information• 382 08 88 (press 3for foreign language)

Coach Bookings• www.volanbusz.hu

Car Rentals• Avis: 318 41 58;www.avis.com• Hertz: 296 09 97;www.hertz.hu

Boat Services• Mahart Passnave:318 60 42; www.mahartpassnave.hu

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Getting Around BudapestMetroBudapest has

Europe’s oldest metrosystem. The M1 line, withits tiny stations and three-carriage trains, opened in1896. There are threemetro lines, serving mostof Pest, though little ofBuda. Trains run from4:30am to 11:10pm.Tickets cost Ft200, andare cheaper if bought inbooklets (see p109). Ifyou need to change metrolines, opt for a ticket thatallows transfers. Other-wise, you will have tobuy a new ticket eachtime you change lines.

BusesTickets can be bought

from metro stations,newsstands or BKV kiosksat major stops (see p109).They need to be punchedin as soon as you boardthe bus. Buses run from4:30am to midnight, andcover most of the city.

TramsBudapest has an

extensive tram networkwith over 30 lines. Tickets(see p109) need to bebought in advance. Manytrams are not accessibleto people in wheelchairs.

TaxisTaxis are increasingly

expensive. Although allhave meters, you shouldbeware using a taxi thatdoesn’t display the nameof the company it belongsto (see p106). Good com-panies include Budataxi,Citytaxi and Fπtaxi. Tariffs

River BoatsA number of river

boat companies run ser-vices along the Danubethroughout summer. Moststop at all the city’s jet-ties on both sides of theriver, as well as MargaretIsland, with Vigadó tér act-ing as the main terminus.

Guided ToursThere are a number

of city tours available,both on foot and by bus.Cityrama offers bus toursfor around Ft6,000 perperson, with departuresfrom the Pest side of theChain Bridge. For walkingtours, you just need toturn up at the yellowchurch on Deák Ferenctér at 9:30am or 1:30pm.

Budapest CardThe Budapest Card

allows free travel on allpublic transport, freeadmission to museumsand various discounts. Itcan be bought at the air-port, stations, hotels andtourist offices (see p109).

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art Left Yellow city tram Centre Road signs for Stop and Pedestrian Zone Right City tour bus

In Budapest, seatbelts are compulsory for passengers in boththe front and the back seats of cars.

DirectoryTaxi Companies• Budataxi: 233 33 33 • Citytaxi: 211 11 11• Fπtaxi: 222 22 22

River Boat Tours • Legenda RiverCruises: 317 22 03

Tour Companies• Absolute: (0630) 21188 61; www.absolutetours.com• Cityrama: 302 43 82;www.cityrama.hu

will be higher if you hail ataxi off the street; it isbetter to ring for one.

HÉV TrainsBudapest’s suburbs,

including Óbuda andAquincum, are served byfour HÉV overland trains.One line runs from Batth-yány tér to Szentendre,stopping at Aquincumalong the way. Thesecond runs from Örsvezér tere to Gödöllπ,taking in the Hungaroringmotor racing track enroute. The third runs fromKözvágóhíd to Ráckeve,and the fourth from Borá-ros tér to Csepel Island.

DrivingThis is the least

convenient method ofgetting around Budapest.There are few places topark, the traffic is terrible,and the maze of one-waysystems makes the city a forbidding place foruninitiated drivers. Thespeed limit in built-upareas is 50 km/h (30mph), and it is forbiddento drive after consumingalcohol. Penalties foroffenders are high.

On FootPerhaps the best

way of getting aroundtown is on foot. Many ofthe central areas are nowfully pedestrianized,including Váci utca andthe Castle District. TheDanube embankment isgreat for walks, thoughcrossing a bridge can bechilly, even in summer.

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Visitors’ GuidePublished by The

Budapest Sun every fewmonths, the Visitors’Guide provides a goodoverview of what’s hap-pening in the city. Givenaway free with the Sun,you should be able tofind a copy at your hotel.

InternetSearch for Budapest

on the Internet and you’llbe inundated with sites –a few of the best are list-ed below. There are Inter-net cafés and wirelesshotspots all over town.

Public Transportfor the Disabled

Most buses are nowaccessible to the disabled,as they have entranceswhich can be lowered topavement level. A fewmetro stations have alsobeen made wheelchair-friendly, though tramsremain inaccessible to allbut the fittest, due totheir steep steps.

Accessible Sightsfor the Disabled

Since Hungary joined theEU, authorities have beenworking to ensure thatmost of the country’ssights are accessible todisabled visitors. How-ever, many of the oldersights are far from beingwheelchair-friendly.Places that are equippedfor travellers with disabil-ities include MátyásChurch, the HungarianNational Museum, theParliament, the Museum

TourinformThe Hungarian State

Tourist Office, Tourinform,runs several informationcentres in Budapest. Themain office is on Deáktér, and there are othersat Nyugati Station, LisztFerenc tér, Buda Castleand the airport. Theyorganize tours as well asoffering maps andgeneral information.

The BudapestTimes

Available at newsstandsall over the city, thisweekly is the best sourceof local news in English.It has an excellent listingssection with details ofopera, cinema and sports.The Times also has a sis-ter publication in German– the Budapester Zeitung.

Budapest In Your Pocket

This bi-monthly English-language visitor’s guideoffers accurate and oftenhilarious write-ups of res-taurants, hotels and busi-nesses. Almost everyplace in the city is review-ed and rated. Available atnewsstands for Ft750, orask at your hotel.

The Budapest SunNot the essential

companion it was someyears ago, The BudapestSun is still a great guide,with a restaurant section,business news and somecultural listings. It is usu-ally given away for freeat hotels, or you can buya copy from newsstands.

of Fine Arts, St Stephen’sBasilica and the StateOpera House.

Hungarian Dis-abled Association

The Hungarian DisabledAssociation providesinformation on servicessuch as transport, coun-selling and personal assis-tance. In keeping with EUregulations, all of Buda-pest’s better hotels areequipped for disabledguests. The Associationposts a list of disabled-friendly hotels on its site.

Gay and LesbianTravellers

The city has innumerablegay clubs and bars, andeven has exclusively gayand lesbian apartment ren-tals. For details, browsethe excellent websitewhich provides listings.

Useful Information

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Left Façade of a tourist information office Centre Hungarian newspapers Right An Internet café

DirectoryTourinform• 24-hours: 438 80 80• Main office: V, Sütπutca 2, Deák tér; open8am–8pm daily

Tourism Websites• www.budapestinfo.hu• www.hungarytourism.hu • www.inyourpocket.com

Hungarian DisabledAssociation• San Marco utca; 25090 13; www.meosz.hu

Gay & Lesbian Guide• www.budapest.gayguide.net

The Hungarian State Tourist Office, Tourinform, also has a hotlinewhich visitors can call from abroad: +36 30 30 30 600.

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Things to AvoidPickpocketsTourists are the

easiest targets for pettythieves. Public transport,especially buses andmetros that ferry visitorsto and from the railwaystations, is notorious forpickpockets. Take extracare in crowded areassuch as the Castle Districtand Váci utca. Never carryyour passport – a copywill suffice – and carry aslittle cash as possible.

UnscrupulousTaxi Drivers

Never get into a taxi thatdoesn’t clearly state thecompany it belongs to, orwhich does not display itstariffs on the driver’s door.Always ask for an esti-mate of the cost beforegetting in. Avoid taxis thatlurk outside stations, asthey are very expensive.

Keleti Station at Night

If you need to take atrain from Keleti Station,note that it gets ratherquiet at night. It’s a fav-ourite hang-out for slightlydodgy characters, andalthough crime is rare, itis an unnerving place forsingle travellers. It isbest to wait for your trainin the McDonalds orPizza Hut across the road.Use only the main frontentrance and avoid theunderground walkways.

Girls on Váci UtcaAttractive blondes on

Váci utca who introducethemselves to single

“tourist menu” signoutside, and be wary ofeating anything cookedby street vendors.

Credit Card FraudBeware of handing

over your credit card in acrowded restaurant. Somewaiters have a palm-topswipe machine that canduplicate your card. Barowners know this, andtry their best to curtailthe activity. When payingby card, always accom-pany the waiter to thecash desk. Nobody willbe offended, as honeststaff know why you aredoing it (see p108).

Passport “Police”Another scam takes

place while you’re walk-ing down a street. Some-one stops you, and atonce a “plainclothespoliceman” arrests youfor transacting an illegalcash deal with the man.They then ask for yourpassport and money, butdon’t hand anything overas you’ll never meet aplainclothes police officerin Budapest. Walk awayor shout “Police” if yourway is blocked.

Over-FriendlyMen at the Baths

Most of Budapest’sbaths are used by gaymen to pick up partners.Single men are oftenapproached by locals,who engage you inconversation. A polite“no thanks” will usuallydo the trick.

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art Crowds of people on Váci utca, Central Pest’s main shopping street

men may appear friendly,but alas, they are not.Refrain from joining themfor a drink, even if theyinsist. They are “con-sumption girls”, employedby bars to bring in foreignmen to buy them drinks,which can cost as muchas Ft25,000. Though manysuch bars were closed bythe authorities, the prac-tice continues. Checkhow much you’re payingfor a drink, and be waryof instant female friends.

Getting LostWhile it’s unlikely

you will lose your way inBudapest, note that manystreets have similarnames. Most famousHungarians have plazas(tér), streets (utca) andavenues (út) named afterthem. Ensure you knowwhich one you’re lookingfor. Many visitors con-fuse Váci utca, the streetin the centre of town,with Váci út, the avenuenorth of the city centre.

Dog MessBudapest’s citizens

love dogs, but aren’t verycareful about cleaning upafter them. Authoritiesappear to have given upon the problem, so youshould watch your step.

Food PoisoningCases of lethal food

poisoning are rare, butmild cases are surpris-ingly common, especiallyin less hygienic restau-rants. As a rule, avoidany place that has the

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Small ChangeTry to keep smaller

notes handy, as tellers donot like having to give youchange. You will receivea rather dour look if youhand over a Ft10,000note in a small store.

Specialist ShopsAlthough large

department stores areslowly invading Hungary,Budapest is still the kindof place where small, spe-cialist shops predominate.

PorcelainThere are two major

manufacturers of porce-lain in Hungary, Herendand Zsolnay. You will seethe coloured Zsolnay tileson many of Budapest’sbuildings. There is arange of porcelain shopsin town, with a concentra-tion around the northernside of Váci utca. Don’texpect any bargains.

CrystalThough not as famous

as the Czech Republic forcrystal, Budapest is still agood place to shop for it.You’ll find shops sellingcrystal on Váci utca includ-ing Goda, which has beendealing in fine Bohemiancrystal for decades, andThonet House, whichsells Swarovski crystal.

BooksBudapest must have

more bookshops thanany other city in Europe.For new English-languagebooks, the best store isBestsellers, while for

Credit CardsCredit cards are now

accepted in most shops.A sign on the doorusually indicates if ashop takes credit cardsor not. Sometimes, how-ever, shops refuse toaccept them even whenthey display the requisitesign. As a norm, you willhave to spend a certainminimum amount to beable to pay by credit card.

VAT RefundsNon-EU residents are

entitled to a VAT refundon all goods bought inHungary, though yourpurchase in any one storemust exceed Ft25,000.After buying what youneed, ask for a FiscalReceipt and VAT ReclaimForm, which act asexport and tax refund doc-uments. You can presentthese at a tax refundoffice at the airport or aland border, along withthe goods purchased, tocollect your VAT refund.A service charge ofaround 10 per cent isdeducted when the refundamount is calculated.

Baskets and BagsWhen entering a

supermarket, make surethat you pick up a basketon entering. Failure to doso will put you undersuspicion as a pros-pective thief. You don’treceive carrier bags foryour purchases as amatter of course inBudapest – they must bepaid for separately.

second-hand books inEnglish and Hungarian,try Red Bus Bookstore.

AntiquesThere is no shortage

of antiques shops in thecity, though you may haveto sort through heaps ofjunk to find the real gems.Try the Flea Market inVárosliget (see p51) forall sorts of rarities, MoróAntik for 18th-centuryweapons and BÁV for artand jewellery.

SouvenirsWhile porcelain and

antiques make great sou-venirs, try the FolkartCentrum shops for handi-crafts and folk costumes.It’s also worth visitingCentral Market Hall’s(see p50) upper level.

Shopping Tips

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Left Libri, a well-known bookshop Centre & Right Souvenirs on sale

DirectoryCrystal• Goda: No 9, Váciutca; 318 46 30• Thonet House: No 11,Váci utca

Bookshops• Bestsellers: V, Októ-ber 6 utca 11; 312 12 95• Red Bus Bookstore:V, Semmelweis utca14; 337 74 53

Antiques• BÁV: V, Kossuth Lajosutca 1–3; 317 37 18;318 86 08• Moró Antik: V, FalkMiksa u. 13; 311 08 14

Souvenirs• Folkart Centrum: V,Váci utca 58; 318 58 10

For more on Budapest’s shops and markets see pp50–51.

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Eating and Drinking TipsVegetarian TipsThere are plenty of

places serving vegetarianfood in Budapest. Mostrestaurants have a vege-tarian section, with dishessuch as lesco (pan-friedtomatoes and peppers)and vegetarian goulash.Good restaurants includeWabisabi (see p79), Krizia(see p99) and the Marquisde Salade (see p79).

OrderingWhen ordering meat,

make sure that you clearlystate how you want itcooked, otherwise it willappear the burnt side ofwell-done. Side dishesand vegetables areusually ordered separate-ly. Hungarians also ordertheir dessert along withthe rest of the meal.

PayingMost restaurants

accept credit cards. How-ever, some places thatusually accept cards mayrefuse to do so if theamount spent is notconsidered high enough.When handing over yourcard to a waiter, ensurethat he doesn’t disappearfor a while before hand-ing it back, as he mayhave made a copy – apractice that is fairly com-mon. Accompany yourcard to the cashier if youfeel unsure (see p106).

TippingMany restaurants

include a service chargein the bill as a matter ofcourse. You should feel

BreakfastEven the cheapest

hotel will include a Con-tinental breakfast in theprice of your room, butfor something more sub-stantial, try Chapter Onefor omelettes, pancakes,ham and eggs (open from9am) or Vista, servingfresh croissants andomelettes from 8am.

BrunchSunday brunch is big

news in Budapest. Allthe five-star hotels listedon p112 offer brunchfrom 11:30am, with livemusic, good food andoften champagne for aset price, usually betweenFt7,500–10,000. A favou-rite is at the Gellért Hotel.

Ethnic FoodDon’t be surprised if

your hot curry is not ashot as you expected. Thebest place for the genuinearticle is the Indian res-taurant, Taj Mahal (seep99), though BombayPalace is also good. Thecity’s Chinese restau-rants are best avoided.

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art Left Café Eszpresszó, Gellért Hotel Centre Centrál Kávéház Right Tea and cake at Leroy Café

For more on Budapest restaurants, see pp52–3, 66–7, 73, 78–9,86–7, 92–3 and 99.

DirectoryRestaurants • Bombay Palace: VI,Andrássy út 44; 331 1986• Chapter One: V, Nádorutca 29 • Don Pepe Pizza: V,Nyugati tér 8; 269 3489• Vista Café: VII, PaulayEde utca 7; 268 08 88

under no obligation to paythis, as tipping is entirelyat your own discretion. A10 per cent tip for goodservice is usually suffi-cient, but if service ispoor, do not feel obligedto leave any tip at all.

ReservationsMany of Budapest’s

restaurants need priorreservations, especially if you want a particulartable, or would like to sitoutside. You may beasked for a phone num-ber when making areservation – your hotelnumber should suffice.

SmokingHungary is

increasingly unfriendlytowards smokers, thoughyou can still light up in allbut the strictest bars andrestaurants. Note, though,that non-smoking sec-tions in most places arenow far larger than theirsmoking counterparts.

Late-Night EatingUnless you’re willing

to brave the street-stallsselling gyros (pita sand-wiches), it can be dif-ficult to find a midnightsnack in the city. Someof the bars on LisztFerenc tér serve fooduntil the early hours, andthe Irish pub Becketts(see p78) can usually rus-tle up a sandwich for youas well. Remember thatall central branches ofMcDonalds are open untilmidnight, while Don PepePizza is open till 6am.

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nothing. Also try thefalafel bar on Paulay Edeutca, where you can eatas much falafel as youcan stuff into a pitta foraround Ft350.

AccommodationHostels are your best

option for cheap accom-modation. A list of someof the best is on p117.Short-term apartmentsare also a good budgetoption (see p116).

Student TravelHolders of valid

International StudentCards benefit from reduc-tions on certain trains.For international travelbargains try Vista Café(see p108) or Wasteels inKeleti Station, both spe-cialists in discount travel.There are no discountsfor international studentson public transport.

MuseumsThe entry fee for

most museums, churchesand other institutions islow enough to suit eventhe most penny-pinchingvisitor. However, manyof these places offer dis-counts to students whopossess a valid studentID. Note that entrance tothe Hungarian Parliament(see pp8–11) is free forEU citizens. The thermalbath houses do not offerstudent discounts.

OperaThe State Opera

House (see pp26–7) offersdiscounted tickets for

Public TransportYou will save money

and time by purchasing abooklet of 10 or 20 trans-port tickets, or a three orfive-day travel pass, validfor all Budapest’s bus,tram, metro and HÉV(suburban train) services,except the Buda CastleFunicular. If you stick tobuying single tickets,public transport can befairly expensive.

Budapest CardCosting about Ft4,700

for 48 hours and Ft5,900for 72 hours, this cardoffers free travel on allpublic transport for theholder plus one childunder 14. It also allowsfree admission to manymuseums. Severalrestaurants offer dis-counts to card holders.

BeerIf you’re looking for

cheap beer, then you’vecome to the right place,though ensure you stickto local brews, as import-ed beer is expensive.Good, local brews seldomcost more than Ft200 perbottle or large glass andinclude Arany Ászok,Kπbányai and Dreher.

FoodIt is still possible to

eat well and cheaply, butonly just. For a cheaplunch, try the Kosherrestaurant Hanna (seep79), or one of theFornetti sandwich shops,where hot pastries andsandwiches cost next to

seats with obscuredviews for as little asFt400. Note that whileyour view may be limi-ted, the sound quality issuperb everywhere in theauditorium. Also, the costof a ticket is far less thanthat for a guided tour –the only other way to seethe inside of the building.

ConcertsClassical concerts are

cheap, as subsidies keepprices low. The Academyof Music Liszt Ferenc ishome to the HungarianPhilharmonic Orchestra,and concerts can cost aslittle as Ft300. TheBudapest PhilharmonicOrchestra, based at theState Opera House, alsooffers fairly cheap tickets.

ClubbingEven popular clubs

have free entrance onmost weeknights, withonly Thursday, Friday andSaturday nights command-ing entry fees. Bahnhof(see p56), next to NyugatiStation, is free every night,and drinks are cheap too,if you stick to local beers.

Budapest on a Budget

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Left Budapest Card Centre Light Hungarian beers Right Orchestra, Academy of Music

DirectoryYouth Hostels• www.youthhostels.hu • www.backpackers.hu • www.mellowmood.hu

Academy of MusicLiszt Ferenc• VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 8;462 46 00

When travelling by metro, you will need to buy a new ticket eachtime you change lines unless you buy a ticket that allows transfers.

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Banking and CommunicationsMoneyHungary’s currency

is the forint (Ft). Coins incirculation are 1, 2, 5, 10,50 and 100 Ft. Banknotescome in denominationsof 200, 500, 1,000, 2,000,5,000, 10,000 and 20,000.It can be difficult to useFt10,000 and 20,000notes, especially in smallstores, and is best tokeep smaller notes handy.

BanksMost banks are open

9am to 5pm. Well-knownbanks are CIB Bank,Budapest Bank, Citibankand OTP Bank. All bankshave ATM machines.They also offer the bestcurrency exchange rates.

Changing MoneyThe best place to

exchange foreign curren-cy is in a bank. Thoughindependent exchangehouses may appear tooffer better rates, theyusually advertise theirrates for buying, not sel-ling, local currency, andmost have hidden costs.

ATMsThe best way to

obtain local currency iswith a credit or debit cardfrom an ATM. These areubiquitous and thoughthe bank that issues thecard will charge a smallfee for each transaction,the exchange rate is thesame as that offered byBudapest’s National Bank.It is a far cheaper methodthan changing money ortraveller’s cheques.

Daily NewspapersUnless you read Hun-

garian, you will be limitedto yesterday’s news, asinternational newspapersarrive on the followingday – The Guardian is anexception. Foreign news-papers are available atmost newsstands, but thebest selection is at theWorld Press House.

Television Although Hungarian

television stations broad-cast foreign programmes,all of these are dubbedinto Hungarian. However,most hotels offer satelliteTV, which carries interna-tional channels, includingCNN, BBC and EuroNews.

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art Left K&H Bank logo Centre Local card telephone Right Post office sign

When calling Budapest from abroad, prefix +36-1 before the local7-digit number. When calling from within Hungary, prefix 06-1.

DirectoryBanks• Budapest Bank: V,Báthory utca 1; 450 60 00• CIB Bank: VI, András-sy út 70; 302 77 01• Citibank: Vörösmartytér 4; 288 23 51• National Bank ofHungary: 1054 Szabad-ság tér 8/9; 428 26 00

Traveller’s Cheques• American Express: V,Deák Ferenc utca; 23543 00

Directory Enquiries• 199

Internet Cafés• Ami: V, Váci utca 40

Daily Newspapers• World Press House:V, Városház utca 3–5

Credit Cards and Traveller’s

ChequesCredit and debit cards arenow almost universallyaccepted in Budapest.Traveller’s cheques canusually only be changedat banks, at high commis-sion rates. However, theAmerican Express officecashes its own traveller’scheques free of charge.

TelephonesPublic telephones all

over the city are operatedby telephone cards, avail-able at any newsstand orpost office. To find a num-ber, call the directory ser-vice listed below. MostHungarians have mobilephones, and the opera-tors Vodafone, T-Mobileand Pannon offer pre-paid SIM cards at costsfar cheaper than roamingcharges. SIM cards aresold at most newsstandsand kiosks, or you cancontact local operators.

PostThere are post offices

at both Keleti and NyugatiStations, open from 7amto 9pm Monday to Friday(weekends vary). Apartfrom stamps, they offermail-holding (poste res-tante) services and inter-national phone booths.

InternetThere are Internet

cafés at every turn in thecity. Favourites are VistaCafé (see p108) and Ami.Cafés charge upwards ofFt700 per hour.

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DentistsHungarian dental

treatment is good, andcheap. If you desperatelyneed a dentist, call SOSDental Services orStomatologia. Both placesoperate around the clock.

PharmaciesThe Hungarian word

for pharmacy is patika,although you will see theGerman word apothekein use as well. There are24-hour pharmacies allover, although not thatmany in the city centre.The closest is Déli Gyó-gyszertár, opposite DéliStation in Buda, and TerézPatika, near OktogonMetro Station in Pest.

PrecautionsBudapest remains a

very safe city, and noparticular precautions arenecessary, except forcommon sense. Avoidflashing large sums ofmoney in public, don’tget into an unmarkedtaxi, and do not talk tostrange girls along Váciutca. Also, make sureyou remember the nameand address of your hotel.There is almost no vio-lent crime in Budapest.

PickpocketsPetty thieves are a

fact of life in Budapest.You would do well toavoid crowded areas.Backpackers are a fav-ourite target for pickpock-ets, and the buses to andfrom Keleti Station aretheir haunts (see p106).

EmergencyNumbers

To call an ambulance,dial 104; for police 107;for the fire service 105.Speak clearly and theoperator will understandyou as they all speak avariety of languages.

PoliceIf you’re careful, your

only brush with the city’spolice force is likely to bewhen you ask for direc-tions. Most police officersspeak English and arehappy to help. TheHungarian word for policeis rendπrség. Note thatwhile random ID checksare rare, you are requiredto carry some form ofidentification with you atall times. A photocopy ofyour passport will suffice.

HospitalsBudapest’s hospitals

are excellent, althoughdoctors and nurses areunderpaid. Do ensurethat you tip them if yourequire their services.Most foreigners will begiven free medical carein an emergency, but youshould have good healthinsurance nevertheless.There are now manyprivate hospitals thatcater mainly to expats.

FireDon’t panic in case

of a fire. Tell the operatorwhere the fire is. If youthink you smell a fire insummer, it may just besmog, which descendson the city occasionally.

Food and WaterSafety

Tap water is safe todrink, though given thehigh quality of bottledwater, nobody actuallydoes. Food poisoning is amore common problem,and the street gyro (pittasandwich) stands are bestavoided for this reason.

ConsulatesMost major countries

have consulates in thecity. In an emergency,especially if you have anydealings with the police,insist on contacting yourconsulate, who will offerlegal assistance.

Security and Health

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Left Budapest police badge Centre Local ambulance Right Interior of a pharmacy

For more information on what to avoid in Budapest see p106.

DirectoryEmergency Numbers• Ambulance: 104• Fire Service: 105• Police: 107

Hospitals• Fπnix S.O.S. Rt. Med-ical Service: 200 01 00

Dentists• SOS Dental Services(24-hour): VI, Király utca14; 267 96 02 • Stomatologia (24-hour): VIII, Szentkirályutca 40; 317 66 00

Pharmacies • Déli Gyógyyszertár:Alkotás utca 1/B; 355 4691 • Teréz Patika: Terézkörút 41; 311 44 39

Consulates • Canada: 392 33 60 • France: 374 11 00 • Germany: 488 35 00• UK: 266 28 88• USA: 475 44 00

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Luxury HotelsKempinski HotelCorvinus Budapest

While the bold KempinskiCorvinus has a Modernistdesign on the outside, itsinside has lush carpets,marble bathrooms andunderstated luxury. Mostrooms overlook Erzsébettér. d Map L3 • V,Erzsébet tér 7–8 • 429 3777 • www.kempinski-budapest.com • FFFFF

Hotel AndrássyAt the Andrássy, you’ll

find all the elegance youcould wish for. A memberof the Small Luxury Hotelsof the World group, it issituated on the city’s clas-siest boulevard. Roomsare superbly furnished,and it has a great restau-rant, Zebrano (see p93).d Map M2 • VI, Andrássy út111 • 462 21 00 • www.andrassyhotel.com • FFFFF

Corinthia GrandHotel Royal

From the faithfullyrestored Secession façadeto the exquisite atriumsand foyer, the GrandRoyal has been open forover a century. With itscentral location, lavishrooms and first classrestaurants, it truly is alegend reborn. d Map D3• VII, Erzsébet körút 43–9 • 479 40 00 • www.corinthiahotels.com • FFFFF

Hilton BudapestTradition and

modernity make theHilton’s façade one of themost instantly recogniz-able sights in the Castle

been lovingly furnished inan Art Deco style. d MapL3 • V, Erzsébet tér 9–10 • 429 55 00 • www.budapest.lemeridien.com • FFFFF

Sofitel AtriumBudapest

In a superb location onRoosevelt tér with viewsof the Danube and theRoyal Palace, the SofitelAtrium offers brightrooms with large baywindows. The atrium ter-race restaurant, with itsinnovative cuisine, is agreat place to relax. d Map K3 • V, Roosevelttér 2 • 266 12 34 • www.sofitel.com • FFFFF

Budapest MarriottThe first of the five-

star hotels in Budapest,the Marriott dates from1969, and its Modernistarchitecture still standsout on the banks of theDanube. Recently reno-vated, all the rooms havestunning views and areimaginatively furnished.d Map K4 • V, ApáczaiCsere János utca 4 • 26670 00 • www.marriott.com/budhu • FFFFF

Radisson SASBéke

Established in 1914, thisbuilding was entirelyrebuilt in 1985. However,it retains a real charm,and is an understatedtreat, a place where staffhave time for their guests.d Map M1 • V, Teréz körút43 • 889 39 00 • www.radissonsas.com • FFFFF

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art Left Lobby at the Kempinski Hotel Corvinus Budapest Right Façade of the Hilton Budapest

All hotels in the Luxury Hotels category provide disabled access.

District. It’s a fantastichotel, with well-furnishedrooms, many of whichhave great views over theDanube. d Map G2 • I, Hess András tér 1–3 • 889 66 00 • www.budapest.hilton.com • FFFFF

Hilton BudapestWestEnd

Contemporary yetpersonal and discreet,the downtown Hilton is acelebration of space andgood taste. A part of theWestEnd City Center (seep50), it offers a full rangeof facilities as well asspecial services such asbaby-sitters. Pets arealso welcome. d Map C2• VI, WestEnd City Center,Váci út 1–3 • 288 55 00 • www.hilton.com • FFFFF

IntercontinentalLarge rooms with

windows overlooking theDanube are the maindraw of this long-stand-ing Budapest favourite.Common areas are wel-coming, and the hotel’sCorso restaurant is oneof the city’s best. Busi-ness rooms come equip-ped with computers andfaxes. d Map K3 • V, Apá-czai Csere János utca 12–14• 327 63 33 • www.interconti.com • FFFFF

Le MeridienBudapest

A perfect combination ofelegance and comfort, theMeridien commands agreat location onErzsébet tér. It is a listedperiod piece, that has

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Best WesternGrand Hotel

HungariaHungary’s largest hotelopened in 1915, and wasoriginally known as theImperial. Today, it is partof the Best Western chain,and all the rooms comewith superb services. d Map E4 • VII, Rákóczi út90 • 889 44 00 • www.danubiushotels.com/grandhotel-hungaria • FFF

Art’OtelSituated in a sublime

Neo-Baroque building onthe banks of the Danube,this is a truly contempo-rary concept hotel, whereart is a way of life. Worksby American artist DonaldSultan are on display. Theartistic concept incorpo-rates everything from thecarpets to the cutlery. d Map H1 • I, Bem rakpart16–19 • 487 94 87 • Dis. access • www.artotel.hu • FFFFF

TavernaLocated on the city’s

busiest street, Váci utca,this is the perfect hotelfor night-owls and shop-aholics. The rooms areelegant and are totallyinsulated from the noisebelow. d Map L4 • V, Váciutca 20 • 485 31 00 • www.taverna.hu • FFFF

Danubius GrandHotel Margitsziget

Located on MargaretIsland, this hotel has beenentertaining Europe’saristocracy since 1873.The renovated rooms are

Four SeasonsHotel Gresham

PalaceThe considerable cost ofstaying at the city’s besthotel becomes insignifi-cant as soon as you stepinto the foyer – a wonderof modern design in aclassic setting. An ArtNouveau landmark, itoffers splendid serviceand fine views of theDanube and the BudaHills. d Map K3 • V,Roosevelt tér 5–6 • 268 6000 • Dis. access • www.fourseasons.com • FFFFF

AstoriaBuilt on the site of

the medieval town walls,the Astoria is a grand,old-fashioned hotel. ItsSecession exterior beliesa Neo-Baroque interior,with crystal chandeliers,fine carpets and splendidworks of art. d Map M4 • V, Kossuth Lajos utca19–21 • 889 60 00 • Dis.access • No air conditioning• www.danubiushotels.com/astoria • FFFFF

Danubius HotelGellért

Since World War I, theGellért has been playinghost to the rich andfamous, who throng hereto enjoy its Secessioncharm and thermal baths.The rooms are no longerthe city’s best, but arewell kept and have greatviews over the Danube.d Map L6 • XI, Szent Gel-lért tér 1 • 889 55 00 • Dis.access • www.danubiushotels.com/gellert • FFFF

large, with high ceilings.The hotel is connected tothe adjacent ThermalHotel by a corridor. d MapP1 • XIII, Margaret Island • 889 47 00 • Dis. access • www.danubiusgroup.com/grandhotel • FFFF

Danubius HotelErzsébet

Named after EmperorFranz József’s wife, theErzsébet was first built in1873, torn down in 1976,and rebuilt in 1985. Today,it is a good value hotel.Rooms are simple butlarge, and those on theupper floors have viewsof Gellért Hill. d Map L4 • V, Károlyi Mihály utca 11–15 • 889 37 00 • www.danubiushotels.com/erzsebet • FFFFF

CorinthiaAquincum Hotel

A modern hotel locatedclose to the Roman cityof Aquincum. A bath com-plex lies adjacent, withpools and thermal baths,all free for hotel guests.d Map P1 • III, Árpád feje-delem útja 94 • 436 41 00 •Dis. access • www.corinthiahotels.com • FFFFF

Thermal HotelMargitsziget

This hotel has its ownthermal bath complex,and the spa offers a rangeof treatments. Roomsare huge, and there aregood restaurants. d MapP1 • XIII, Margaret Island • 889 47 00 • Dis. access • www.danubiushotels.com/thermalhotel • FFFFF

Grand and Historic Hotels

Streetsmart

Entrance to the elegant Art’Otel

Price CategoriesFor a standarddouble room pernight (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.

F under Ft7,500 FF Ft7,500–15,000

FFF Ft15,000–22,500FFFF Ft22,500–30,000

FFFFF over Ft30,000

Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards, and haveprivate bathrooms and air conditioning.

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Mid-Range HotelsK+K Hotel OperaPart of the K+K chain,

this is a classy hotel nearthe State Opera House,with an elegant façadeand modern interiors.Rooms are well furnish-ed, with plenty of naturallight. There’s a lively barand secure car parking. d Map L2 • VI, Révay utca24 • 269 02 22 • www.kkhotels.com • FFFF

Cotton HouseUpstairs at the

legendary Cotton Club(see p56) is the CottonHouse hotel, where 18double rooms are indivi-dually named and dec-orated in tribute to greatperformers. Names asdiverse as Frank Sinatra,Charlie Chaplin, TomJones and Ella Fitzgeraldare among those honour-ed. d Map M1 • V, Jókaiutca 26 • 354 26 00 • www.cottonhouse.hu • FFFF

Ibis CentrumPart of the Ibis chain,

where function wins overstyle, but high standardsare guaranteed. Thoughlocated on one of thecity’s busiest streets, therooms are soundproofedfrom the noise below.There is also a lovelygarden patio. d Map M5 • IX, Ráday utca 6 • 456 4100 • Dis. access • www.ibis-centrum.hu • FFF

Budai Well-hidden in the

Buda Hills, the Budai is agreat little pension whereyou must ask in advance

your camera. d Map G2 • I, Szentháromság tér 7–8• 212 02 69 • www.burghotelbudapest.com • FFFF

Buda GoldA splendid Buda

hotel, located a shortwalk from the Rác Baths.Housed in a great build-ing, complete with atower, it was only built in1997. Rooms have cherrywood parquet floors, andmost have great viewsover the Danube or theBuda Hills. The towerrooms, which cost extra,are the best. d Map A5 • I, Hegyalja út 14 • 209 4775 • Dis. access • www.goldhotel.com • FFFF

City Hotel Mátyás Just a couple of

minutes from Váci utca,the striking City HotelMátyás is located abovethe Mátyás Cellar, a well-known Hungarian res-taurant. Rooms are com-fortable, but you have topay extra for a room withair conditioning. d MapK4 • V, Március 15 tér 7–8 • 338 47 11 • www.taverna.hu/matyas • FFF

City Hotel Pilvax Well hidden behind

Váci utca, this is a three-star hotel in the heart ofBudapest. Rooms arespartan, but comfortableand prices include a greatbuffet breakfast. It’s toughto find better value soclose to the city centre.d Map L4 • V, Pilvax köz72 • 266 76 60 • www.taverna.hu/pilvax • FFF

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art Left Interior of the legendary Cotton House Right Sign for the Buda Gold hotel

Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards, and haveprivate bathrooms and air conditioning.

for a room with a balcony,to make the most of thesplendid panorama. Therooms are spacious, andthere’s also a goodrestaurant. d Map N2 • XII, Rácz Aladár út 45–7 • 249 21 86 • www.hotels.hu/budaihotel • FFFF

Hotel Molnár A good hotel in the

Buda Hills, set in twoseparate buildings – onelight green, the otherbeige. The rooms andservice are excellent inboth, but the views areslightly better from thegreen building. d Map N2• XII, Fodor utca 143 • 39518 73 • www.hotel-molnar.hu • FFF

Carlton HotelThe austere-looking

Carlton is, in fact, a goodmid-range hotel, whereall 95 rather basic butcomfortable rooms haveair conditioning. An excel-lent buffet breakfast isincluded in the price ofyour room. d Map H3 • I, Apor Péter utca 3 • 224 09 98 • www.carltonhotel.hu • FFFF

Burg Hotel The large, tastefully

furnished rooms directlyopposite Mátyás Churchon Castle Hill, make thisa popular hotel, whereyou need to reserve aroom long before yourvisit. There is no betterplace to stay if you planon being the first to reachFishermen’s Bastion –across the road – with

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building dates from theearly 20th century, and isa mix of Neo-Baroque andNeo-Gothic, blending inwell with the Castle Hillsurroundings. d Map G2• I, Szentháromság tér 6 •355 01 22 • No air condition-ing • www.mka.hu • FFFF

SissiNamed after Elizabeth

(Erzsébet) – wife ofEmperor Franz József II –who was known to friendsas Sissi, this hotel isworthy of her name. It is acharming place with smartinteriors and large rooms,all 44 of which have balco-nies. Several rooms areset aside as non-smoking.d Map P2 • IX, Angyal utca33 • 215 00 82 • Dis. access• No air conditioning • www.hotelsissi.hu • FFFF

Astra A charming 18th-

century hotel comprisingnine rooms, two suitesand a family room, allhoused in a historic build-ing at the foot of theRoyal Palace. Most roomsare furnished with superbantique furniture, and areset around an inner court-yard. A good breakfast isserved in the arched din-ing room. d Map H1 • I,Vám utca 6 • 214 19 06 • www.hotelastra.hu • FFF

MediterranThere are 40

rooms in this elegantfour-star hotel, almost allof which have superbviews of the Buda Hills.All the rooms are large

Boat HotelFortuna

For something different,try this hotel on theDanube, near MargaretBridge in Pest. Somerooms are large, but someare smaller than a cabinboy’s quarters. There’s arestaurant on board, anda lounge where you candream of cruising downthe river. d Map C1 • XIII,Szent István Park, Alsó rak-part • 288 81 00 • www.fortunahajo.hu • FFF

Anna A charming hotel in

the city centre. Roomsare small, but have all theamenities, while the twoapartments come withclassic wooden furnitureand antique tables andchairs. A buffet breakfastis included. d Map D4 • VIII, Gyulai Pál utca 14 • 327 20 00 • Dis.access• No air conditioning • www.hotels.hu/annahotel • FFF

Papillon The lovely garden,

complete with a paddlingpool, makes this a greatchoice for families. Sit-uated in the Buda Hills, itis a good place for anyonelooking for peace andquiet. There are 16 rooms– some take an extra bed.d Map N2 • II, Rózsahegyutca 3/B • 212 47 50 • Noair conditioning • www.hotels.hu/papillon • FFFFF

KulturinnovThe Kulturinnov

offers basic rooms, closeto Mátyás Church. The

and air conditioned. Thehotel also offers secureparking. d Map A5 • XI,Budaörsi út 20/a • 372 7020 • Dis. access • www.hotelmediterran.hu • FFF

Gizella Panzió With its semi-

Transylvanian gate, theGizella could be in theCarpathians rather thanat the foot of the BudaHills. It is a homely placewhere you will be welllooked after. Rooms arelovely, though not all thatbig. d Map N2 • XII, Aratóutca 42/b • 249 02 01 • No air conditioning • FFF

Leo PanzióIn the heart of the

city, the Leo Panzió(pension) is a great placefor those who want to bein the thick of the action.It’s a classy place, wherethe service is alwaysexemplary. When itcomes to value formoney in downtownBudapest, this place isdifficult to beat. d MapL4 • V, Kossuth Lajos utca2/a • 266 90 41 • FFFF

Helios Hotel andPension

A fair distance from thecity centre, this is a goodchoice for a relaxed stay.Almost all the roomshave balconies overlook-ing the city. In summer,an excellent breakfast isserved on the gardenterrace. d Map N2 • XII,Lidérc utca 5/a • 246 46 58• No air conditioning • www.heliospanzio.hu • FFF

Small Hotels and Pensions

Streetsmart

The Boat Hotel Fortuna


F under Ft7,500 FF Ft7,500–15,000

FFF Ft15,000–22,500FFFF Ft22,500–30,000

FFFFF over Ft30,000

Small hotels and pensions often charge extra for rooms withprivate bathrooms.

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Short-Term Apartment RentalsSydneyApartment Hotel

The best short-termapartments in Budapest,where no luxury has beenignored. There’s a swim-ming pool, undergroundparking and 24-hour sec-urity. Prices are high butdeservedly so. Long-termrents are also available.d Map C2 • XIII, Heged√sGyula utca 52–4 • 236 8800 • Dis. access • www.sydneyaparthotel.hu • FFFFF

Apartment HotelVictor

These are well furnishedapartments near NyugatiStation. The complex hasa separate entrance witha reception desk. You canhave breakfast brought toyour room, though allapartments are equippedwith kitchens. d Map C2• XIII, Victor Hugó utca25–7 • 239 79 28 • www.victor.hu • FFF

Garzonház Luxury apartments

near the centre of NorthBuda. They have fullyfitted kitchens and somehave balconies. There isa reception desk and park-ing. The minimum periodof rental is seven nights.d Map H1 • I, Batthyányutca 49 • 224 90 61 • www.garsonhas.hu • FFFF

Peter’sApartments

Although these arehoused in an ordinaryapartment block, theyhave tastefully decoratedinteriors. Located just

IBUSZApartments and

Private Rooms IBUSZ can arrange staysin apartments belongingto Hungarians, who arean extremely hospitablepeople. A great option,especially if you want tostay in central Budapest.IBUSZ also have theirown apartments, avail-able for about Ft7,000per night. d Map L4 • V, Ferenciek tere 10 • 485 27 14 • No air con-ditioning • No credit cards • www.ibusz.hu • FF

Maria and IstvánThree simple apart-

ments close to the citycentre, run by a friendlycouple who have beentaking in visitors for years.The apartments are spot-lessly clean, and canhouse up to six people.There’s a garage for yourcar, and if you’re arrivingat night, they can arrangeto pick you up. d Map D6• IX, Ferenc körút 39 • 216 07 68 • No air con-ditioning • No credit cards • www.mariaistvan.hu • FF

To-MaA short-term rental

agency that can eitherarrange lodging in apart-ments with Hungarianfamilies, or in their ownapartments, located allover Budapest. All apart-ments conform to To-Ma’s standards, whichare high. d Map K2 • V,Október 6 utca 22 • 353 0819 • No air conditioning • No credit cards • FFF

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art Left Interior of the Sydney Apartment Hotel Right The stylish Residence Izabella on Andrássy út

Unless otherwise stated, all apartments accept credit cards, andhave private bathrooms and air conditioning.

north of Nyugati Station,they are ideally placed foraccess to the city centre.d Map C2 • XIII, VictorHugó utca 25–7 • 331 6021 • www.peters.hu • FFF

Radio Inn These are good value

one- and two-bedroomapartments near Heroes’Square, in the heart ofthe diplomatic district. Byno means luxurious, theyare well-sized, with goodbathrooms. An optionalbreakfast is also avail-able. d Map E3 • VI, Benc-zúr utca 19 • 342 83 47 • www.radioinn.hu • FF

Hunguest Apart-hotel Europa

Exclusive apartment hotelin the Buda Hills. Roomsrange from large multi-roomed apartments tosimple studios. All havekitchens and great views.A buffet breakfast isincluded in the price. d Map N1 • II, Hárshegyi út5–7 • 391 23 00 • www.hunguesthotels.hu • FFFFF

ResidenceIzabella

An apartment hotel withspacious one-, two- andthree-bedroom apart-ments in a great location,just off Budapest’s most exclusive street,Andrássy út. There is a24-hour reception desk,security, parking and ahealth club. d Map D3 • VI, Izabella utca 61 • 475 59 00 • Dis. access • www.residenceizabella.com • FFFFF

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market themselves as ahostel. These are cheaper,though more crowded,than the hotel rooms. d Map C1 • XIII, Szent Ist-ván Park, Alsó rakpart • 28881 00 • No air conditioning • www.fortunahajo.hu • FF

Back PackGuesthouse

Popular with youngbackpackers, this guest-house is always buzzingwith people having a goodtime. There’s a courtyard,and while the rooms arespartan, they are impec-cably clean and have freshlinen daily. d Map N2 • XI, Takács Menyhért utca33 • 209 84 06 • No airconditioning • www.backpackbudapest.hu • F

Citadella HotelThe citadel atop

Gellért Hill is home toone of Budapest’s cheap-est and best hotels, witha 14-room dormitory aswell as double rooms.The only problem is thehike up at night after anevening out. d Map K6 • XI, Citadella sétány • 46657 94 • No air conditioning• No credit cards • www.citadella.hu • F

Fortuna HostelAn ordinary hostel

not in the city’s best area,but close to a metro sta-tion which can take you tothe city centre in minutes.Rooms are clean and staffare friendly. d Map P2 • IX, Gyáli út 3/b • 215 0660 • No air conditioning • www.fortunahostel.hu • F

Marco Polo HostelExcellent value back-

packer hostel in the heartof the city, where dormsare partitioned into two-bed cubicles for privacy.Besides the dorms, thereare doubles, triples andquads, all of which haveen-suite facilities. There’salso a bar, an Internet café,breakfast is included andthere’s no curfew.d Map D4 • VII, Nyár utca6 • 413 25 55 • No air con-ditioning • www.marcopolohostel.com • FFF

Red Bus Hostel These are two well-

run hostels with five-beddorms, and single, doubleand triple rooms. Thereis a laundry service, nocurfew and breakfast isincluded. d Map L4; V, Semmelweis utca 14;266 01 36; F • Map E4; VI, Szövetség utca 35; 321 71 00; www.redbusbudapest.hu; F

Best HostelThis clean hostel is

as cheap as they come,and you’ll be sleeping onbunk beds with up tonine people in your room.There’s no curfew, butdrinking alcohol or smok-ing is not permitted. d Map D2 • VI, Podmanic-zky utca 27 • 332 49 34 • No air conditioning • F

Boat HostelFortuna

Most of this boat is partof a rather fine hotel (seep115), but there are dormrooms in the hull which

StationGuesthouse

A rather rowdy hostel, buta great choice for thosewho enjoy late nights. Therooms are clean, bath-rooms are exceptional,and there’s a 24-hour bar.But if you’re looking forpeace and quiet, forgetit. There’s no curfew. d Map P1 • XIV, Mexikói út36/b • 221 88 64 • No airconditioning • www.stationguesthouse.hu • F

CharlesIf you can ensure

that you don’t get one ofthe noisy rooms facingthe street, the Charlesoffers good rooms, whichare more like mini-apart-ments with built-inkitchens. Well located onthe Buda side of theriver, it is home to thefine János restaurant (seep73). d Map A5 • I, Heg-yalja út 23 • 212 91 69 • www.charleshotel.hu • FF

DominikaApartman Hotel

At the cheap end of theapartment sector, thesesuperb apartments arehoused inside a delightfulguesthouse in a leafyBudapest suburb. There’sa great terrace and swim-ming pool at the back, andthe owners are friendly.Located some distancefrom the city centre, thisis where to come if youwant luxury at a bargainprice. d Map N2 • XII,Lidérc utca 13 • 246 00 62• Dis. access • www.dominika.matav.hu • FF

Cheap Sleeps

Streetsmart

Relaxing at the popular Back Pack Guesthouse


F under Ft7,500 FF Ft7,500–15,000

FFF Ft15,000–22,500FFFF Ft22,500–30,000

FFFFF over Ft30,000

Some hostels and guesthouses do not offer private bathrooms.

118

Ind

ex

General IndexBahnhof 56, 109Bajor Sörsátor 92Bánk Bán opera 27banks 110bars and pubs 54–5

Around Parliament 78Around Városliget 92Castle District and North Buda 66

Central Pest 86Gellért and Tabán 73

Batthyány, Count Lajos65, 76

Batthyány Square 62, 65Battle of Belgrade 11baths and swimming

pools 36–7Dagály Medicinal Bathsand Strand 37

Gellért Hotel and Baths6, 16–17, 36, 69

Hajós Alfréd Pool 36Király Baths 36Lukács Baths 36Palatinus Strand 37, 44Rác Baths 37, 72Rudas Baths 36Széchenyi Baths 36, 89, 91

Thermal HotelMargitsziget 18, 113

thermal waters 17BÁV 51, 107Becketts 78, 108Béla III, King 10, 64Béla IV, King 10, 13, 18,

25, 62Béla Kun Memorial 32Béla Tower 24Belcanto 79Belváros 82Benczúr, Gyula 12, 13, 20

Recapture of BudaCastle 20

St Stephen 13Best Hostel 117Best Western Grand

Hotel Hungaria 113Bíró, László 35Boat Hotel Fortuna 115Boat Hostel Fortuna 117Bodor Well 19Bombay Palace 108Bonbon Delicatesse 51Botanical Gardens 94, 97Brunswick Palace 59

12 pont (12 points) 30, 351000 Tea 861894 Borvendéglπ 93

Aaccommodation (see

apartment rentals,hostels and hotels)

A38 56Abszint 54Academy of Music Liszt

Ferenc 23, 109Academy of Sciences 43,

76air travel 102, 103Alabárdos Étterem 53, 67Alagút 64All Saints’ Day 49Alpár, Ignác 89Aman, Johann 63ambulance 111András II, King 10, 17Andrássy Street 88, 89 Angelika 66Anna 115Apartment Hotel Victor

116apartment rentals 116Apponyi Márkabolt 50Aqueduct 98Aquincum 6, 34, 62, 94,

95, 98, 104, 113Aquincum Amphitheatre 98Arany, János 16Aranyszarvas 71Arc de Triomph 59Around Parliament 74–9

cafés and pubs 78restaurants 79

Around Városliget 88–93cafés and pubs 92restaurants 93

Árpád dynasty 34Árpád, Prince 10, 34Art’Otel 113Assumption of the

Blessed Virgin Mary 24Astoria 113Astra 115Astrik 9ATMs 110

BBa Bar 54, 86Back Pack Guesthouse 117Bagolyvár 93

Buda 6, 34, 42, 62, 66, 67,75, 104

Buda Castle 74, 105Buda Castle Funicular 43,

44, 109Buda Castle Labyrinth

45, 64Buda Hills 94, 95, 113,

114, 115, 116Budai 114Budafok 95BudaFest 48Budakeszi Wildlife Park 97Budapest Card 104, 109Budapest ghetto 34Budapest History

Museum 38, 63, 71Budapest In Your Pocket

105Budapest Parade 48Budapest PhilharmonicOrchestra 109The Budapest Sun 105Budapest Technical

University 72, 75The Budapest Times 27,

105Budapest Wine Festival 49Budapest Wine Society 87Budapest Zoo 45, 88, 91Budavári Fortuna Spaten

66budget travel 109, 117Buena Vista 93Burg Hotel 114Búsuló Juhász Étterem

53, 73

CCafé Astoria 86Café Eszpresszó 17, 71, 73Café Gusto 66Café Kor 79Café Miro 65Café Pierrot 54, 66cafés 54–5

Around Parliament 78Around Városliget 92Castle District and NorthBuda 66

Central Pest 86Gellért and Tabán 73Greater Budapest 99

Calgary Antik Drink Bar 66Calvinist Church,

Városliget 23, 90

119

churches (cont.) St Michael’s CityChurch 15

Serbian Church 41St Anne’s Church 40Tabán Parish Church 70

Cifra Palace 59Cistercian Church of St

Imre 72Citadel 70, 72Citadella 71, 73Citadella Hotel 117City Hall 51City Hotel Mátyás 114City Hotel Pilvax 114Clark, Adam 34, 64Clark, William Tierney 34Club Verne 15clubs 56–7, 109Columbus 43, 54Communist Manifesto 32Communists 32, 34, 69Congress Centre 72consulates 111Corinthia Grand Hotel

Royal 112Corvinus University of

Budapest 57, 82, 84Cotton Club 56, 114Cotton House 114credit cards 106, 108, 110Crown Jewels 8Csepel Island 34, 104currency 110 (see

also money)Curtis, Tony 85

DDagály Medicinal Baths

and Strand 37Danube (Duna) 6, 54, 56,

58, 62, 68, 76, 83, 84,104, 112, 113, 114, 115

Danube sights 42–3Danubius Grand Hotel

Margitsziget 19, 37, 113Danubius Hotel Erzsébet

113Danubius Hotel Gellért 113

(see also Gellért Hotel)Danube Water Carnival 48day trips 58–9dentists 111Descartes, René 76Dimitrov, Georgi 33disabled visitors 105

public transport 105Duke of the Magyars 10

Capuchin Church 41Carlo’s Restaurant 67Carlton Hotel 114Carmel Pince 85Carpathian Basin 90Castle District 48, 62, 104

106, 112Castle District and North

Buda 62–7cafés, pubs and bars 66restaurants 67

Castle Hill 62, 74, 114Cave Church 40, 69Centenary Monument 18Centrál Kávéház 87Central Market Hall 15,

50, 107Central Pest 82–7

cafés and pubs 86restaurants 87

Cha-Cha-Cha 86Chain Bridge 34, 42, 64,

76, 104Chamber of Commons 9Charles III, Emperor 11Charles IV, King 34, 40, 64Chez Daniel 99children’s attractions 44–5Children’s Railway 44,

95, 97Christ of Tabán 70churches 40–41

Calvinist Church,Városliget 23, 90

Capuchin Church 41Cave Church 40, 69Church of theImmaculateConception 58

Church of St MaryMagdalene 64, 65

Cistercian Church of StImre 72

Dominican Church 18, 30Franciscan Church,Ferenciek tere 41

Franciscan Church,Margaret Island 18

Inner City Parish Church40, 83

Lutheran Church, Deáktér 41

Lutheran Church,Városligeti út 90

Mátyás Church 7, 24–5,40, 64

St Michael’s Church,Margaret Island 19

Domed Hall 8–11Dominican Church 18, 30Dominika Apartman

Hotel 117Dreschsler Palace 89Dual Monarchy 9, 70Duran’s 12

EE-Klub 56Eklektika Café 54Eleπd, Ákos 33Elizabeth Bridge 14, 40,

42, 83Embankment Walk 43embassies (see

consulates)emergency numbers

111Empire 87Erkel, Ferenc 26Erzsébet Look-Out Tower

95, 97Esztergom 18, 58Eszterházy, Prince 85Ethnographical Museum

8, 39, 74, 75Eugene of Savoy 20Európa Kávéház 78

FFat Mo’s 57Fehér Galamb 66Fekete Holló 67Feketeházy, János 72Ferenczy, Károly 21

Birdsong 21Ferihegy Airport 103Feszl, Frigyes 83Festetics family 97Festetics Palace 85Festetics, Prince 85festivals and events 48–9fire service 111Fishermen’s Bastion 62,

65, 114Flea Market 51, 107Fodor, Gyula 96Folkart Centrum 50, 107Fontana Department

Store 14food

eating and drinking 108Hungarian specialities 53safety 111

Formula One 96, 102Förster, Ludwig 84Fortuna Hostel 117

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Hungarian NationalMuseum 7, 30–31, 38,54, 82, 84, 105

Hungarian Open AirMuseum 58

Hungarian Parliament 6,8–11, 13, 42, 74, 109

Hungarian PhilharmonicOrchestra 109

Hungarian State TouristOffice 105

Hungarian Uprising 32, 35,65, 75, 83

Hungarian-SovietFriendship Memorial 33

Hunguest AparthotelEuropa 116

Hunyadi family 31Hunyadi, János 10, 25H√vös Valley 44, 95

IIbis Centrum 114IBUSZ Apartments and

Private Rooms 116Iguana 79Imre, Prince 69Incognito 92Inner City Parish Church

40, 42, 83, 85Intercontinental 112International Circus

Festival 45International Student

Cards 109Internet cafés 110Irish Cat Pub 54, 86István, King (St Stephen)

6, 10, 12, 34István Szabó 35Izsó, Miklós 76

JJanic, Mihai 41Janis’ Pub 86Jankovits, Gyula 69János Étterem 73Jardinette 99Jazz Garden 52Jewish Cemetery 94,

96Jewish Museum 38, 49,

84Jewish Quarter 85Jewish Summer

Festival 49Joseph, Archduke 21József, Attila 35

Habsburg Crypt 21Hajós Alfréd Pool 36Hanna 79, 109Hauszmann, Alajos 39, 75Hax’n Király 93health 111Heged√s, Ármin 16Helios Hotel and Pension

115Henri Belga Sörözπ 66Henry J Bean’s 78Herend 50, 107Heroes’ Square 48, 90,

116Herzog, Fülöp 89, 91HÉV trains 98, 104, 109Hikisch House 65Hild, József 12Hilton Budapest 112Hilton Dominican Court 48history 34–5Höbling House 64Holocaust Memorial 84, 85Holy Right Hand Chapel 13Horthy, Admiral Miklós 32,

63, 85hospitals 111hostels 109, 117 (see also

hotels) Hotel Andrássy 93, 112Hotel Molnár 114hotels 112–17 (see also

apartment rentals andhostels)cheap sleeps 117grand and historic hotels 113

luxury hotels 112mid-range hotels 114short-term apartmentrentals 109, 116

small hotels andpensions 115

Hungarian Arts and Crafts Festival 48

Hungarian CommunistParty 35

Hungarian DisabledAssociation 105

Hungarian Film Festival 72Hungarian Grand Prix 49Hungarian Lower House 9Hungarian National

Archive 64Hungarian National Bank

23, 110Hungarian National Gallery

7, 20–23, 38, 63

Fót 58Four Seasons Hotel

Gresham Palace 76, 113Francsek, Imre 69Franciscan Church,

Ferenciek tere 41Franciscan Church,

Margaret Island 18Franz József Square 76Franz Liszt Academy of

Music 23, 109Franz Liszt Museum 90Fregatt Pub 86

GGambrinus 85Garzonház 116gay and lesbian travellers

105Gellért Baths 16, 69Gellért Hill 53, 68, 72,

113, 117Gellért Hotel 16, 17, 23,

36, 69, 108, 113Gellért Hotel and Baths 6,

16–17, 23, 36, 69, 108,113

Gellért Monument 69Gellért and Tabán 68–73

restaurants, bars andcafés 73

Geology Institute 23, 96Georgian restaurant 67Gerbeaud Cukrászda 14,

83, 86Gizella Panzió 115Gizi Bajor Theatre

Museum 98Goda 85, 107Gödöllπ 58, 104Golden Stag House 68, 71Gouin, Ernest 43Great Synagogue 34, 38,

40, 82, 84, 85Greater Budapest 94–9

restaurants and cafés 99Gresham Kávéház 78Gresham Palace 23, 74,

75, 76, 113Gresham, Sir Thomas 75Gulácsy, Lajos 23

Magic 23Self Portrait with Hat 23

Gundel 52, 93

HHabsburgs 6, 11, 30, 34,

59, 62, 75

121

Liszt, Ferenc (Franz) 35, 90Lords’ Street 62, 64Lotz, Károly 8, 9, 12, 21,

25, 27, 30, 41Glorification of Hungary 8Wisdom and Fortitude 9Woman Bathing 21

Lou Lou 87Louis “the Great”, King

10, 24Ludovika Academy 98Ludwig Museum

Budapest – Museum ofContemporary Art 39

Lukács Baths 36Lukács Café 92Lutheran Church, Deák

tér 41Lutheran Church,

Városligeti út 90

MMagyar invasion 34Magyars 9, 10, 34, 90, 96Maharaja 93Mahart Passnave 42Mahler, Gustav 26Malév airlines 102, 103Marcello 73Marco Polo Hostel 117Mare Croaticum 79Margaret Bridge 43, 52,

66, 115Margaret Island 6, 18–19,

30, 42, 44, 104, 113Margit Kovács Museum 58Margit, Princess 18Maria and István

Apartments 116Maria Theresa Palace 20markets (see shopping)Markup, Béla 8Marquis de Salade 79, 108The Marriott 83, 112Martonvásár 59Márványmenyasszony

Étterem 73Marx, Karl 32, 84Mátyás Cellar 114Mátyás Church 7, 24–5,

40, 62, 64, 105, 114, 115Mátyás Corvinus, King 11,

24, 25, 31, 40, 63, 64Mátyás Pince 87Mayer, Ede 71Mediterran hotel 115Mediterran restaurant 55,

92

József, Emperor Franz 15,34, 40, 64, 69, 72, 76,113, 115

KK+K Hotel Opera 114Kacsa 52, 67Kalamajka Dance House 86Kaltenberg Royal Bavarian

Brasserie 87Kaméleon Klub 57Karl of Lotharingia 20Karma 92Károlyi, Count Lajos 85Károlyi, Mihály 58Károlyi Palace 58Kárpátia 87Kassák Museum 98Kauser, József 12Kecskemét 59Kehli 99Keleti Station 97, 103,

106, 109, 111Kempinski Hotel Corvinus

Budapest 112King Arthur’s 99Király Baths 36Kisbuda Gyöngye Étterem

53, 99Kiskunfélegyháza 59Kiskunfélegyháza National

Park 59Kisrabló 73Klemperer, Otto 26Klotild Palaces 15Kölcsey, Ferenc 65Körössényi, Tamás 63Kossuth, Lajos 75Közgáz 57Közvágóhíd 104Krizia 99, 108Kulacs 87Kulturinnov 115

LLa Fontaine 52, 79Labyrinth of Budavár 45, 64Le Jardin 67Le Meridien Budapest 112Lechner, Ödön 15, 35, 39,

59, 84, 96Leo Panzió 115Libegπ 97Liberation Monument 70Liberty Bridge 43, 72Liberty Square 74, 76Lilliputian millennium

line 91

Melocco, Miklós 63Menza 92metro 104, 109Mihály Pollack Square 82,

85Miklós Ybl Square 71Millennium Celebrations

11, 20, 84, 89, 90Millennium Exhibition 91Millennium Monument 88,

90Ministry of Justice 75money 106, 107, 109, 110Mongol invasion 19Móri Borozó 66Moró Antik 107Mosselen Belgian Beer

Café 55, 78 Mozart Café 92Munkácsy, Mihály 21

The Churning Woman 21Woman CarryingBrushwood 21

The Yawning Apprentice 21

Museum of Agriculture 89Museum of Applied Arts

23, 38, 84Museum of Fine Arts 20,

38, 88, 89, 90, 105Museum of Military

History 39museums and galleries

38–9Budapest HistoryMuseum 38, 62, 63

Ethnographical Museum39, 74, 75

Franz Liszt Museum 90Gizi Bajor TheatreMuseum 98

Hungarian NationalGallery 7, 20–23, 38, 63

Hungarian NationalMuseum 7, 30–31, 38,82, 84, 105

Hungarian Open AirMuseum 58

Jewish Museum 38Kassák Museum 98Ludwig MuseumBudapest – Museum ofContemporary Art 39

Margit Kovács Museum58

Museum of Agriculture89

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restaurants (cont.)Central Pest 87eating and drinking 108Gellért and Tabán 73Greater Budapest 99

Rigoletto 55, 78Rippl-Rónai, József 22

Girls Getting Dressed 22Girl with a Birdcage 22Lady in Red 22The Manor House atKörtyvélyes 22

Rivalda 52, 67river boats 104river cruises 42Robinson 91, 93Rolling Rock Café 73Roman Settlement

Museum 98Rondella Borozó 55Roosevelt Square 43, 74,

76Royal Hungarian Express 97Royal Palace 7, 11, 13, 20,

38, 63, 72, 74, 112, 115Rózsavölgyi Zenem√bolt 51Rubik, Ernó 72Rudas Baths 36Ruszwurm 24, 65, 66

SSándor, Count Vincent 63Sándor Palace 62, 63, 65Sas Hill Nature Reserve 72Schikendanz, Albert 89, 91Schulek, Frigyes 24, 65, 95Sebestyén, Artúr 16Secession 20, 22, 23, 63,

70, 74, 112, 113security 111Semmelweis, Dr Ignáz 72Semmelweis Museum of

Medical History 71, 72Senyei, Károly 13Serbian Church 41shopping 50–51, 107

Váci utca 14–15, 82, 83Sigismund, King 10Sir Lancelot 79Sissi 115smoking 108Sofitel Atrium Budapest

112Sommer, August 84Somogyi, József 8Spoon 43St Anne’s Church 40, 65, 66St Elizabeth of Árpádház 25

Paris, Texas 86Parliament (see Hungarian

Parliament)Pártos, Gyula 15, 84passports 102Pauer, György 40Pauline Order 69People’s Park 94, 96Pest 6, 34, 40, 42, 75, 83,

103, 104, 115Pest Buda Vendéglπ 67Pest embankment 43Pesti Est Café 92Peter’s Apartments 116Petπfi, Sándor 30, 35, 59,

84pharmacies 111Piaf 92Picasso Point 78Pilis Hills 95Planetarium 45, 96Polgár Galeria 51police 111Pollack, Mihály 30, 63, 84,

85post offices 110Post Office Savings Bank

23 Prank Theatre 76Premier 93pubs (see bars and pubs)Puskás, Ferenc 35, 96

QQueen Elizabeth

Monument 68, 69Quittner, Zsigmond 76

RRác Baths 37, 70, 72, 114Ráckeve 59, 104Radio Inn 116Radisson SAS Béke 112Railway History Park 94, 97Rákóczi, Ferenc II 75Ráth György Museum of

Far Eastern Art 90Ray, Rezsπ Vilmos 95Red Bus Hostel 117Reichstag 9, 33Republic of Councils

Monument 33Residence Izabella 116restaurants 52–3

Around Parliament 79Around Városliget 93Castle District and North Buda 67

museums and galleries(cont.)Museum of Applied Arts 38, 82, 84

Museum of Fine Arts38, 88, 89

Museum of MilitaryHistory 39

Natural History Museum 98

Railway History Park 97Ráth György Museumof Far Eastern Art 90

Roman SettlementMuseum 98

Semmelweis Museumof Medical History 72

St Stephen Museum 31Telephone Museum 64Transport Museum 44Vasarely Museum 39

M√vész 79

NNagy, Imre 11, 35, 75Nagytétény Palace 98Nagy Lovas 50Náncsi Néni 99National Stadium 96Natural History Museum 98Nemzeti Dal (National

Song) 30, 35, 84Népliget 96New Theatre 23New York Palace 23newspapers 105, 110Nyugati Station 18, 50,

103, 105 109, 116

OÓbuda 6, 34, 62, 85, 94,

98, 104Óbuda Amphitheatre 98Óbudai 48Old Man’s Music Pub 78Operetta Theatre 77Öreghalász Étterem 99Oscar American Cocktail

Bar 66Ottoman Empire 17, 70

PPaksi Halászcsárda 67Pál-völgy Caves 94, 96Palace of Art 88, 91Palatinus Strand 37, 44Pannonia 34, 95Papillon 115

123

Tabáni Kakas Vendéglπ 73Taj Mahal 99, 108Tatars 10, 13, 24Taverna Hotel 14, 85, 113taxis 104, 106Telcs, Ede 83Telephone Museum 64telephones 110television 110Thabart, Adolphe 42Than, Mór 27, 30Theresa, Maria 11, 20,

59, 63Thermal Hotel

Margitsziget 18, 113thermal waters 17Thonet House 15, 107time zones 102River Tisza 34To-Ma 116Tokaji Borozó 78Tomb of King Béla III and

Anne de Châtillon 25Törley Mausoleum 94, 95Török, Richárd 63tourist information 105tours 104trams 104, 109travel and transport 103,

104, 105, 109budget transport 109 disabled visitors 105

Transport Museum 44, 91travel insurance 102traveller’s cheques 110Treaty of Trianon 11Trocadero 57Tropicarium-Oceanarium

98Turkish baths 6, 36Turks 10, 25, 36, 62, 64,

70, 83

UUdvary, Geza 9University of Economics

84 (see also CorvinusUniversity of Budapest)

Unloading Square 76Ural mountains 10, 34

VVác 59, 83Váci utca 6, 14–15, 83, 85,

104, 106, 107, 113, 114Vadász John Bull Pub Vadrózsa Étterem 52Vágó, József 76

St Emeryka 13St Imre 72St Ladislaus 10St Michael’s Church,

Margaret Island 19St Michael’s City Church 15St Stephen (King István I)

9, 10, 12, 24, 30, 34, 40,69, 76

St Stephen Museum 31St Stephen’s Basilica 6,

12–13, 40, 48, 71, 74,76, 105organ concerts 13

St Stephen’s Day 13, 49State Opera House 7,

26–7, 30, 35, 48, 74, 77,105, 109, 114

Station Guesthouse 117Statue Park 7, 32–3Steam Train Grand Prix 97Steindl, Imre 8, 75Sterk, Izidor 16Stróbl, Alajos 9, 12, 26Stüler, Friedrich August

43, 76Svéd, Sándor 27swimming pools (see

baths and pools) Sydney Apartment Hotel

116Sylvester II, Pope 10Százéves 87Széchenyi Baths 36, 88, 89Széchenyi, Count Ferenc

31, 38, 84Széchenyi, Count István 31Széchenyi Hill Cog

Railway 44, 95Szeged Étterem 73Székely, Bertalan 21, 27

Women of Eger 21Székesfehérvár 30Székesfehérvár Cathedral

25Szemlπ-hegy Caves 94, 95Szentendre 58, 104Szépjuhászné Station 97Sziget Festival 48Stróbl, Zsigmond

Kisfaludi 70Szinyei-Merse, Pál 21

Picnic in May 21Szoda 57

TTabán 68, 70Tabán Parish Church 68, 70

Vágó, László 76Vajda, Zsigmond 9Vajdahunyad Castle 89, 91Várkert Casino 72Városliget (City Park) 51,

88, 107Városliget Lake 44Városligeti Avenue 88, 90Vasarely Museum 39Vata, Prince 71Vásárhelyi, Gyπzπ 39Vaszary, János 22–3, 35

Breakfast in the OpenAir 23

Fancy Dress Ball 22The Golden Age 22Riders in the Park 23

Vezér, Ferenc 69Vian 92Vichy Palace 98Vienna Gate Square 62, 64Vigadó Concert Hall 83Vigadó Square 42, 82, 83,

85, 104 visas 102Visegrád 18, 58Vista Café 108, 109, 110Víziváros 40, 62, 65Vogl, Gergely 40Vörös és Fehér 52, 77, 87Vörös Postakocsi 99Vörösmarty, Mihály 8, 35,

83Vörösmarty Square 82, 83Vörösmarty tér station 14

WWabisabi 79, 108Wall Street 93Wallenberg, Raoul 72Weiss, Friedrich 31Wekerle Estate 98WestEnd City Center 50,

112Wolff, Emil 76

YYbl, Miklós 12, 19, 35, 71,

84youth hostels 109

ZZala, György 69Zebrano 93, 112Zichy Palace 39Zsolnay tiles 23, 38, 96,

107Zsolnay Markabolt 15

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AcknowledgmentsThe AuthorA linguist by training, Craig Turphas spent the majority of his adultlife studying and writing about thelanguages and peoples of Centraland Eastern Europe. He has writtena number of guide books to theregion, and is a key member ofthe team that publishes the InYour Pocket series of independent,locally produced city guides. Helives in Bucharest, Romania.

Main Photographer Demetrio Carrasco

Additional PhotographyGábor Barka, Dorota and MariuszJarymowiczowie, Dave King,Eddie Lawrence

Fact Checker Ördög Ágnes

AT DK INDIA:Managing Editor Aruna GhoseArt Editor Benu JoshiProject Editor Vandana MohindraEditorial Assistance Gouri BanerjiProject Designers Shruti Singhi,Bonita VazSenior CartographerUma BhattacharyaCartographer Suresh KumarPicture Researcher TaiyabaKhatoonIndexer & Proofreader Pooja KumariDTP Co-ordinator Shailesh SharmaDTP Designer Vinod Harish

AT DK LONDON:Publisher Douglas AmrinePublishing Manager Kate PooleSenior Editor Christine StroyanSenior Art Editor Gadi FarfourSenior Cartographic Editor CasperMorrisSenior DTP Designer Jason LittleDK Picture Library RomaineWerblowProduction Inderjit Bhullar

Picture Creditst-top; tl-top left; tlc-top left centre;tc-top centre; tr-top right; cla-centre left above; ca-centre above;cra-centre right above; cl-centreleft; c-centre; cr-centre right; clb-centre left below; cb-centrebelow; crb-centre right below; bl-bottom left; b-bottom; bc-bottomcentre; bcl-bottom centre left; br-bottom right; d-detail.

Every effort has been made to tracethe copyright holders of images,and we apologize in advance for anyunintentional omissions. We wouldbe pleased to insert the appropriateacknow-ledgments in any subse-quent edition of this publication.

The publishers would also like tothank the following for their assis-tance and kind permission tophotograph at their establishments:Academy of Sciences; TímeaAdrián, Statue Park; Ba Bar;Budapest Transport Ltd; CentrálKávéház; Cotton House; Eva Fisli,Hungarian National Museum; FatMo’s; Ferenc Liszt Museum; AndrásGabányi, Hungarian Parliament;Gerbeaud Cukrászda; Katalin Gyorfi,Budapest Festival Centre; VandaHorvath, Tourism Office ofBudapest; Máté Istvánné, StStephen’s Basilica; KempinskiHotel Corvinus Budapest; KisbudaGyöngye Étterem; PoloskeyKrisztina, Mátyás Church; LaFontaine; Vásony Mihály, DanubiusHotel Gellért; Rondella Borozó;Emese Soós, State OperaHouse; St Anne’s Church; SydneyApartment Hotel; Vörös és Fehér;WestEnd City Center; and all otherchurches, museums, parks,hotels, restaurants and sights toonumerous to thank individually.

125

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Works of art have beenreproduced with the permission ofthe following copyright holders: © DACS 2005, 22tl.

The publishers would like to thank the following individuals,companies and picture libraries fortheir kind permission to reproducetheir photographs.

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126

In an EmergencyHelp! Segítség! shegeetshayg!Stop! Stop! shtop!Call a doctor Hívjon orvost! heevyon

orvosht!Call an ambulance Hívjon mentπt! heevyon menturtCall the police Hívja a heevya a ren-

rendπrséget dur shaygetCall the fire Hívja a heevya a

department t√zoltókat! tewzoltowkot!Where is the Hol van a hol von uh

nearest legköze-lebbi legkurze-telephone? telefon? lebbi telefon?

Where is the Hol van a hol von a leg-nearest hospital? legköze-lebbi kurze-lebbi

kórház? koorhahz?

Communications EssentialsYes/No Igen/Nem igen/nemPlease (offering) Tessék teshaykPlease (asking) Kérem kayremThank you Köszönöm kurssurnurmNo, thank you Köszönöm kurssurnurm

nem nemExcuse me, please Bocsánatot bochanutot

kérek kayrekHello Jó napot yow nopotGoodbye Viszontlátásra vissont-

latashruhWhat? Mi? mi?When? Mikor? mikor?Why? Miért? miayrt?Where? Hol? hol?

Useful PhrasesHow are you? Hogy van? hod-yuh vun?Very well, köszönöm kurssurnurm

thank you nagyon jól nojjon yowlPleased to Örülök hogy ur-rewlurk hod-

meet you megis- yuh megish-merhettem merhettem

Where can I get…? Hol kaphatok hol kuphutok …-t? …-t?

How do you Hogy lehet hod-yuh lehetget to? ...-ba eljutni? ...-buh el-

yootni?Do you speak Beszél bessayl

English? angolul? ungolool?I can’t speak Nem beszélek nem bessaylek

Hungarian magyarul mud-yaroolI don’t understand Nem értem nem ayrtemCan you help me? Kérhetem a kayrhetem uh

segítségét? sheg-eechaygayt

Please speak Tessék teshayk slowly lassabban lushubbun

beszélni bessaylniSorry! Elnézést! elnayzaysht!

Useful Wordsbig nagy nojsmall kicsi kichihot forró forowcold hideg hideggood jó yowbad rossz rossopen nyitva nyitvaclosed zárva zarvaleft bal bolright jobb yob

entrance bejárat beh-yarutexit kijárat ki-yaruttoilet WC vaytsayfree/unoccupied szabad sobbodfree/no charge ingyen injen

Making a Telephone CallCan I call abroad Telefonálhatok telefonalhutok

from here? innen inen külföldre? kewlfurldreh?

Could I leave Hagyhatnék egy hud-yuhutnayka message? üzenetet? ed-yuh

ewzenetet?Hold on Várjon! vahr-yon!

ShoppingHow much is this? Ez mennyibe ez menn-

kerül? yibeh kerewl?Do you have…? Kapható kuphutaw

önöknél…? urnurknayl?Do you take credit Elfogadják a elfogud-yak uh

cards? hitelkártyákat? hitelkart-yakut?What time do you Hány kor Hahn kor

open/close? nyitnak/zárnak? nyitnak/zárnak?this one ez ezexpensive drága drahgacheap olcsó olchowsize méret mayretwhite fehér feheerblack fekete feketehred piros piroshyellow sárga shargagreen zöld zurldblue kék cakebrown barna borna

Types of Shopantiques dealer antikvárius ontikvahriooshbank bank bonkbookshop könyvesbolt kurn-

yuveshboltcake shop cukrászda tsookrassduhchemist patika putikuhdepartment store áruház aroo-hazflorist virágüzlet virag-ewzletmarket piac pi-utsnewsagent újságos oo-yushagoshpost office postahivatal poshta-hivatalshoe shop cipπbolt tsipurboltsouvenir shop ajándékbolt uy-yandaykboltsupermarket ábécé/ABC abaytsaytobacconist trafikos trafikostravel agent utazási iroda ootuzashi iroduh

Staying in a HotelHave you any Van kiadó vun ki-udaw

vacancies? szobájuk? soba-yook?double room with francia-ágyas frontsia-ahjosh

double bed szoba sobuh twin room kétágyas kaytad-yush

szoba sobuhsingle room egyágyas ed-yad-yush

szoba sobuhroom with a fürdπszobás/ fewrdur-

bath/shower zuhanyzós sobahsh/zoo-szoba honzahsh soba

porter portás portahshkey kulcs koolchI have a reservation Foglaltam egy foglultum ed-

szobát yuh sobat

Phrase Book

Ph

rase

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127

Sightseeingbus autóbusz owtawboosstram villamos villumoshtrain vonat vonutunderground metró metrawbus stop buszmegálló booss

megallawart gallery képcsarnok kayp-chornokpalace palota pololachurch templom templomgarden kert kertlibrary könyvtár kurnvtarmuseum múzeum moozayoomtourist túristahivatal toorishta-

information hivotolclosed for public ünnepnap ewn-nepnap

holiday zárva zarva

Eating OutA table for... Egy asztalt ed-yuh usstult

please szeretnék... seretnayk...személyre semayreh

I want to reserve Szeretnék egy seretnayk ed-a table asztalt foglalni yuh usstult

foglolniThe bill please Kérem a szamlát kayrem uh

samlatI am a vegetarian Vegetáriánnus vegetari-

vagyok ahnoosh vojokI’d like… Szeret nék seret nayk ed-

egy…-t yuh…-twaiter/waitress pincér/pincérnπ pintsayr/

pintsayrnurmenu étlap aytlupwine list itallap itullupglass pohár poharbottle üveg ewvegknife kés kayshfork villa villuhspoon kanál kunalbreakfast reggeli reg-gelilunch ebéd ebayddinner vacsora vochoramain courses fπételek fur-aytelekstarters elπételek elur-aytelekdesserts édességek aydesh-

shaydekrare angolosan ongoloshanwell done átsütve ahtshewtveh

Menu Decoderásványvíz ahshvahnveez mineral waterbárány bahrahn lambbors borsh peppercsirke cheerkeh chickencsokoládé chokolahday chocolatecukor tsookor sugarecet etset vinegarfagylalt fodyuhloot ice creamfehérbor feheerbor white winefokhagyma fokhodyuhma garlicfπtt furt boiledgomba gomba mushroomsgyümölcs dyewmurlch fruitgyümölcslé dyewmurlch-lay fruit juicehagyma hojma onionshal hol fishhús hoosh meatkávé kavay coffeekenyér ken-yeer breadkrumpli kroompli potatoeskolbász kolbahss sausage

leves levesh soupmarha marha beefmustár mooshtahr mustardparadicsom porodichom tomatoespárolt pahrolt steamedpsertéshús shertaysh-hoosh porkrizs rizh ricebifsztek bifstek steakroston roshton grilledsajt shoyt cheesesaláta sholahta saladsó shaw saltsonka shonka hamsör shur beersült shewlt fried/roastedsült burgonya shewlt boorgonya chipssütemény shewtemayn-yuh cake, pastrytea tay-uh teatej tay milktejszín taysseen creamtengeri hal tengeri hol seafoodtojás toyahsh eggvörösbor vur-rurshbor red winezsemle zhemleh rollzsemlegombóc zhemleh- dumplings

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Numbers0 nulla noolluh1 egy ed-yuh2 kettπ, két kettur, kayt3 három harom4 négy nayd-yuh5 öt urt6 hat hut7 hét hayt8 nyolc n-yolts9 kilenc kilents10 tíz teez11 tizenegy tizened-yuh12 tizenkettπ tizenkettur13 tizenhárom tizenharom14 tizennégy tizen-nayd-yuh15 tizenöt tizenurt16 tizenhat tizenhut17 tizenhét tizenhayt18 tizennyolc tizenn-yolts19 tizenkilenc tizenkilents20 húsz hooss30 harminc hurmints40 negyven ned-yuven50 ötven urtven60 hatvan hutvun70 hetven hetven80 nyolcvan n-yoltsvun90 kilencven kilentsven100 száz saz1,000 ezer ezer10,000 tízezer teezezer1,000,000 millió milliaw

Timeone minute egy perc ed-yuh pertshour óra awruhhalf an hour félóra faylawruhSunday vasárnap vusharnupMonday hétfπ haytfurTuesday kedd keddWednesday szerda serduhThursday csütörtök chewturturkFriday péntek payntekSaturday szombat sombut

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HadtörténetiMúzeumMuseum of Military History

Mária Magdolna templom tornyaChurch of St MaryMagdalene

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Tudományos AkadémAcademy of Scienc

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Rác GyógyfürdπRác Baths

Tabániplébániatemplom

Tabán Parish Church

Kapucinus templomCapuchin Church

Szent Anna templomSt Anne's Church

Budavári palotaRoyal Palace

Gellért emlékm√Gellért Monument

Budapesti TörténetiMúzeum

Budapest HistoryMuseum

Entrances to theLabyrinth of Budavár

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OrszágházHungarian Parliament

Magyar Nemzeti Galéria Hungarian National Gallery

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Operett SzínházOperetta Theatre

Új SzínházNew Theatre

Gresham palotaGresham Palace

Postatakarék PénztárPost Office Savings Bank

miaces

Néprajzi MúzeumEthnographical Museum

EvangélikustemplomLutheran Church

Rudas Gyógyfürdπ Rudas Baths

CitadellaCitadel

Budapesti CorvinusEgyetem

Corvinus Universityof Budapest

Erzsébet Királyné szobraQueen Elizabeth Monument

Felszabadulási emlékm√Liberation Monument

Szerb templomSerbian Church

Belvárosi Ferences templomFranciscan Church

Belvárosi plébánia templomInner City Parish Church

SziklatemplomCave Church

ZsinagógaGreat Synagogue

Magyar Nemzeti BankHungarian

National Bank

Zsidó MúzeumJewish

Museum

Klotild palotákKlotild Palaces

Angolkisaszonyoktemplom

St Michael City Church

Központi VásárcsarnokCentral Market Hall

Gellért Szálló és FürdπGellért Hotel and Baths

Szent IstvánBazilika

St Stephen'sBasilica

Állami OperaházState Opera House

Magyar NemzetiMúzeum


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Vörösmarty tér

Bajcsy-Zs. út

Arany J.u.

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Ferenciek tere

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Batthyány tér

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Dózsa Györgyút

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KözvágóhídKelenföldi pu.

Móricz Zs. körtér

Szent Gellért tér

Fπvam tér

Bocskai út Népliget

Határ út

Ecseri út

Tétényi út

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Bajcsy-Zs. útBlaha

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Metro line M1

Metro line M2

Metro line M3

M4 under construction

HÉV train line

Interchange station

Train station

XV

XIX

XVIIIXX

III

XII

I

XXII XXI

IX

VIII

VII

XVI

XIV

X

XI

XIII

KEY

Top 10 place of interest

Other place of interest

Airport

Train station

Metro station

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Major road

Minor road

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Újpest-Városkapu

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Határ útKelenföldi pu.

Ferihegy

Zsidó TemetπJewish Cemetery

NépligetPeople's Park

Törley MauzoleumTörley Mausoleum

Szemlπ-hegyi-barlang ésPál-völgyi-cseppkπbarlang

Szemlπ-hegy andPál-völgy Caves

Aquincum

Vasútörténeti ParkRailway History Park

Vasarely MúzeumVasarely Museum

Földtani IntézetGeology Institute

Ludwig MúzeumBudapest –

Kotárs M√vészeti MúzeumLudwig Museum Budapest –

Museum ofContemporary Art

Duna (Danube)

Szilas-patak

Rák os- pa tak

Háros

Albert-falva

BudafokKamaererdπ

Budatétény

Nagytétény

Csepel

Királyerdπ

Kispest

Erzsébettelep

Pesterzsébet

Kelenföld

Pest-újhely

Rákos-szentmihály

Mátyásföld

SashalomZugló

Angyalföld

Kπbánya

Zugliget

Sasad

Gazdagrét

Újpest

Újpalota

Árpádföld

Istenhegy

Csillebérc

Csömör

Budaörs

Diósd

Óbuda

SzoborparkStatue Park

Budapest

See Budapest mapon front flap

E60 4

E75 M0

E71 M7

7

6

10

11

31

E71

M3

E77

2

Greater Budapest

YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHINGYOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHINGYOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL


TOP 10

Whether you are travelling first class or on a limited budget, this Eyewitness Top 10 guide will lead you straight

to the very best Budapest has to offer.

Dozens of Top 10 lists – from the Top 10 Hungarian dishesto the Top 10 festivals, bars, cafés and shops – provide theinsider knowledge every visitor needs. And to save you timeand money, there are budget and shopping tips, as well as

a list of the Top 10 Things to Avoid.

Find your way effortlessly using the detailed maps which fold out from the front and back covers, plus

many smaller maps inside.

£6.99Printed in Italy

Discover more atwww.dk.com

BUDAPEST

Voted Best Guide Book by Guardian andObserver readers

Documents

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL TOP 10 BUDAPESTstatic.nationalromacentrum.org/pdf/Budapest.pdf · g y i Ú t g y Ö r i u zrÍnyi u dorottya u apÁczai u k ir Á l y u ady endre u szem l∏ h eg