Comprehensive Bearded Dragon Care Guide

Detailed reference for Pogona vitticeps husbandry

Gnarly Dragons: April Payne

5/6/2019

This document details the care practices of Gnarly Dragons. Other care information may compare or contradict the information found in this guide.

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Table of Contents

Forward -------------------------------- 2

Enclosure ----------------------------- 3

Heating & Lighting ------------------ 3-4

Humidity ------------------------------- 4

Substrate ------------------------------ 4

Accessories -------------------------- 4-5

Housing Multiple Dragons -------- 5

Cleaning ------------------------------- 5-6

Diet ------------------------------------- 6-8

Supplements ------------------------- 8

Health ---------------------------------- 8-11

Safety ---------------------------------- 12

Helpful Resources ------------------ 12

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Forward

This Comprehensive Bearded Dragon Care Guide aims to provide dragon owners with a

reference which they can use throughout their pet’s lifetime. This guide contains detailed

information on all aspects of bearded dragon care and reflects the practices of the author.

However, the industry of reptile husbandry is always changing, thus this guide is likely to

change as we are constantly learning new and better ways to improve the lives of our animals.

The layout of this guide is a work in progress. If you feel that something is missing or

needs more explanation, please let us know.

Thank You

April P.

Gnarly Dragons

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Comprehensive Bearded Dragon Care Guide

5 fun facts about your bearded dragon

1. Bearded dragons are native to Australia. 2. Your bearded dragon can live an average of 10 years in captivity. 3. Your bearded dragon may grow up to 24 inches. 4. Bearded dragons are named for their scaly neck that they can puff out and turn black to

ward off predators or show dominance over other bearded dragons. 5. Bearded dragons head bob and stomp to show dominance and is mostly displayed by

males; slow pushups and hand waving shows subordination and is mostly displayed by females.

Enclosure Once fully grown, your beardie will need at least a 40 gallon ―breeder‖ tank. The term ―breeder‖ tank refers to its dimensions (36‖ x 18‖ x 16‖). It is best to get this size first so you don’t buy several progressively larger tanks as it grows. However, if you are unable to get one then keep in mind that the smallest tank a baby can comfortably live in is a 20 gallon. Custom enclosures can also be purchased or made, just be sure they are large enough for adult dragons. Bigger is always better! Place your dragon’s enclosure away from windows and air vents. While windows offer your dragon a great view, depending on where the window faces it may also let in extra heat that will make it difficult maintaining a temperature gradient within the tank. Windows are not a replacement for UVA/UVB! Air vents cause drafts and dryness in your dragon’s enclosure which in turn will lower their temperature and cause dehydration.

Heating & Lighting Your bearded dragon is an ectotherm from a warm, dry environment with a lot of sun exposure. The term ectotherm means they need both a source of heat and a cooler area to stay healthy. This temperature gradient allows beardies to regulate their temperature and metabolize food. Bearded dragons require two types of bulbs UVA and UVB. Here are some important tips on heating and lighting:

Heating

Thermometers: To help you control your dragon’s habitat, you should have a thermometer at each end of their tank. The warm side of the tank (not the basking spot) should be 80-90 degrees while the cool side should be about 75 to 85 F (24 to 29 C).

Basking Spot: Place your heat light over the basking spot. This should be the warmest area in the habitat during the day: 100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit (38 to 49 Centigrade). You may need to adjust the lamp’s distance to the basking platform to achieve proper temperatures.

Do NOT use red bulbs for heat. Dragons cannot see in red light. They need the white light spectrum in order to experience natural daytime activities.

Heating Pads: Lights need to be turned off at night. Darkness and cool temperatures tell your dragon it is time for bed. Only use a ceramic heat emitter or heat pad if your night time temperatures get lower than 65 degrees F (18 C) in the winter. If you are using a heat pad, place it on the side of the tank to prevent the possibility of your dragon getting burnt. NEVER USE HEAT ROCKS.

Lighting

Cycle: Bearded dragons are active during the day and sleep at night — just like you! It is important that your dragon’s lights match the yearly light cycle to keep them healthy.

Summer: 14 hours on; 10 hours off.

Winter: 12 hours on; 12 hours off.

UVA: This is the visible wavelength that also emits heat. Many pet stores and online markets carry a variety of heat bulbs specifically for desert dwelling reptiles. Choose one

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that works with your set up. Make sure to read the instructions and pay attention to the temperature range on the side before setting it up.

UVB: This is a nonvisible wavelength similar to that of the sun and is imperative to their overall health as it helps them synthesize calcium into vitamin D to build bone. Without it, your beardie is at risk of developing Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). UVB bulbs are sold at pet stores and online markets. Their strength fades over time so this bulb will need to be replaced every 9 -12 months or as recommended by the instructions that come with the bulb.

According to ZooMed, bearded dragons are considered mid-day baskers that require high UVB exposure. To ensure the best exposure, read the bulb’s instructions and pay attention to the recommended distance from the bulb to your animal.

Tube bulbs are better due to their ability to emit UVB across the entire enclosure. Coil bulbs tend to only emit a concentrated cone of UVB. Thus, if your animal is not within that cone, it is not receiving any UVB.

Keep in mind that screen lids filter out around 30% of the light’s rays and glass or plastic tops filter out 100% of the rays.

Humidity Hygrometers: In addition to thermometers, you should also have a hygrometer—a device that measures humidity. Your bearded dragon thrives when humidity is between 30% and 50%.

If humidity is less than 30%, a light misting once day is sufficient, otherwise they are at a risk of dehydration and difficulty shedding.

If humidity is more than 50%, do not mist and remove the water dish, otherwise they are at risk of an upper respiratory infection or contracting yellow fungus.

Substrate

The best substrate is no substrate. Sand, like any loose substrate, is messy and can cause a number of health issues if you are not careful, so it is best to avoid it. Instead choose a reptile carpet or linoleum tiles to line the bottom of the enclosure. These bare bottom floors allow for easy clean up and do not pose as many health risks. With every pro, there is a con. Bearded dragons are not germaphobes and will walk through any feces left in the tank. It is best to pick up any feces with a paper towel immediately otherwise you may be scrubbing down the tank and bathing your beardie.

Accessories Décor

Climbing and Hiding: Bearded dragons are not picky about their décor but they do love to climb. Accent the enclosure with a variety of objects for your beardie to climb and hide under. Make sure whatever is put in the tank is sanitized and free of any sharp points or edges. Common accessories include drift wood, fake rock, and beardie hammocks. Rough objects such as brick or rough wood can help file your beardie’s nails.

Basking Platform: It is best to have an elevated basking spot. This allows the dragon to get close to the heat bulb enough to reach that 100-110 F temperature while maintaining the 80-90 F for the warm side of the tank.

Fake Plants: These should be avoided for the simple fact that your dragon may try to eat them. Depending on the shape, it may have the potential to cause bodily harm to your pet such as poking their eye.

Dishes

Food Dish: Shallow dishes let dragons of all sizes easily access their food. Metal, glass, or lipped dishes are good for keeping bugs in one easy to catch spot. These are helpful in keeping the bugs out of any fresh droppings from your dragon which can make them sick.

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Water Dish: Water dishes should never be filled deeper than the beardie’s elbow so it does not pose the risk of drowning. Clean the water dish once a day or every other day. You may need to introduce the water dish to your beardie by splashing the water around. Some beardies don’t take to water dishes so it is important that you as the owner get the beardie to drink.

Below is a diagram of a typical beardie enclosure provided by Exotic Bearded Dragons. Note that this is a custom built enclosure, so it has ventilation ports and lights mounted inside. Plant décor is not often recommended due to the beardie’s inability to distinguish it from a real plant and may succeed in eating it.

Housing Multiple Dragons Your beardie prefers the solitary life so it is best to keep them in their own tank. Position their enclosures so that they are out of eyesight of each other at all times, otherwise they may experience stress.

Males: Males should NEVER be housed together as they will constantly fight, injure, and kill one another.

Males and Females: Likewise, males and females should NEVER be housed together. The male will terrorize the female, injure her, over breed with her, and potentially kill her by causing too much stress.

Females: Although it is not recommended, under certain circumstances females can be housed together. This can only be done if they are similar in size, the enclosure is large enough for both of them, and you keep a close eye on their behavior at all times to make sure they get along. Some females will display male behavior when trying to establish dominance over the other female. If this happens, separate them immediately and make arrangements for a second enclosure. For these same reasons you should never house more than two females together.

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Cleaning Always remove your animal from the enclosure before cleaning. Make sure the enclosure is either completely dry or rinsed to avoid exposure to strong chemicals that have the potential to be harmful. Cleaning Solutions

Ammonium Chloride: Bleach and chlorohexidine solutions are not enough to kill the bacteria associated with reptiles. Disinfectants that contain ammonia or ammonium chloride are the only cleaners that kill coccidia and its mutated form. Some soaps contain small amounts of ammonium chloride but they aren’t as effective as more concentrated brands such as the coccicidal concentrated disinfectant made by beardeddragon.co or wipeout 1 by ZooMed.

Ammonia: Diluting 1 part ammonia to 10 parts water is a great every day spot cleaning solution. It kills coccida but must be rinsed well before putting your dragon back.

Bleach: Use bleach to sterilize new décor items, specifically those that are very porous like wood or some rocks. This is especially important when introducing new items found outside to kill off any unwanted bugs, bacteria, or fungus. Make sure to slightly dilute it the bleach 1:10 before use. Rinse the item well before introducing it to your animal. Remember, bleach does not kill coccida!

Enclosure

Spot Clean: The tank should be spot cleaned every day. This means cleaning up the individual piles of feces your dragon leaves for you as well as removing any leftover food and washing the water dish. Use the ammonium chloride soap to wipe the spot where the feces was removed.

Deep Clean: A deep clean should be done once a week or every other week depending on how dirty the tank is. This means removing everything from the tank and scrubbing/ wiping down the floor and walls of the tank with the coccicidal concentrated disinfectant and let it dry. The same should also be done to any dirty tank accessories except for the food and water dishes which need to be rinsed after being washed. A tank dirty with feces poses many health risks such as respiratory infection, scale rot, eye infections, and bacterial infections.

Bearded Dragon

Regular Baths: Bearded dragons should be soaked in luke warm water up to their shoulders twice a week for babies/ juveniles and once a week for sub adults and adults. This allows them to drink, go to the bathroom, hydrate their skin, help them shed, and get some exercise. Use a soft toothbrush or something similar to scrub off any messes.

Deep Clean: In cases where the beardie is extremely dirty and smelly, soap can be used. Only use soaps with natural ingredients like Dragon Wash or Dragon Detox by beardeddragon.co. Other soaps or shampoos contain chemicals that may harm your pet. Do not create a bubble bath for the beardie by adding soap to the bath water. First allow them to drink and go about their business in the water. Crate a small cup of soap and water to dip the brush in. Remove the dragon from the water and scrub them up. Avoid the eyes and mouth! Rinse them in fresh water and dry them in a clean towel before returning them to their tank.

Nail Clipping: Bearded dragon nails can become very long and sharp. Rough objects in their tank help to file them down but they can also be clipped. It is a good idea to use specialized reptile clippers to do this. Human clippers can be used but may cause cracking of the nail or can cut other toes on accident. Trim off the very tip of the nail as seen in the diagram provided by Beautiful Dragons Reptile Rescue. This is the sharp needle point that comes off the end of the bulk of the nail. Occasionally the nail needs to be trimmed further up past the needle point. Only do this when their nails get too long and start to curl to prevent damaging the toes. The quick can sometimes be seen with the naked eye but a flashlight can be used to shine through the nail. If you are not comfortable cutting your beardie’s nails, don’t. Take them to a professional, skilled reptile handler, or your local vet.

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Diet Bearded dragons are omnivores, meaning they eat both plants and insects. Their age and size largely dictates what they eat and how much. Here is a quick rundown of age, length, and average daily meals.

Category Age (months) Length (inches) Meals a day

Baby

0-1 3-4

2-3

2 5-9

3 8-11

4 9-12

Juvenile 5 11-16

6 11-18

Sub-adult 8 13-20

2 11 16-22

Adult 12+ 22-24 1-2

NOTE: If your dragon’s size does not match its age in the above chart, feed them more than what is suggested for their age. Below is a basic list of acceptable foods and when to feed them. Variety is key so switch up what you feed your beardie every week. If you are unsure what specific foods they can eat, always look it up. The internet is full of great food guides on what and how often to feed greens and veggies. Rule of thumb – never feed your beardie anything larger than the space between their eyes. The * symbol designates staple foods that should be given regularly. All other foods should be given sparingly. Insects

Baby/ Juvenile = Once or twice a day.

Sub-adult = Once every other day.

Adult = Couple times a week.

o Dubia or Discoid roaches*, black soldier fly larva, superworms, crickets, mealworms, hornworms and wax worms; always dust with calcium supplement.

o Note that Dubia roaches are illegal in Florida. Florida has very strict rules on feeder insects. Always check if a feeder

insect is legal before purchasing from online markets or private sellers. Other Live Food

Baby/ Juvenile/ Sub-adult = Never

Adult = Rare treat, once every few months

o Pinky Mice or minnows. o These should be fed only to adults who are very healthy and only on rare

occasions as treats.

Greens/Vegetables

Baby/ Juvenile = Once a day.

Sub-adult/ Adult = Once a day. (Majority of diet)

o Chopped dark leafy greens* (collard, turnip, mustard, dandelion), squash (butternut, yellow, acorn, spaghetti, etc.), carrots, green beans, cactus leaf, and

Table 1: Age categories with corresponding months, average length, and suggested

meals per day. Average length was provided by thebeardeddragon.org.

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red/yellow/ green peppers. Comprehensive lists of good veggies for your beardie can be found online.

o Spinach, Kale, and broccoli are all calcium binders and should be fed very rarely. Fruits

Baby/ Juvenile/ Sub-Adult/ Adult = Rare treat, once every other month

o Apples, bananas, watermelon, strawberry, blueberry, etc. o No citrus, anything with too many seeds, or skins/ rinds.

Prepared diets

Baby/ Juvenile = Once a day.

Sub-adult / Adult = Once every other day.

o Repashy Super Foods* This company offers a wide variety of products that suit many different

nutritional needs. Babies and juveniles need a lot of protein to grow so feed them Repashy’s Grub Pie. Sub-adults and adults don’t require as much protein so feed them Repashy’s Beardie Buffet. Read each product’s description and try them out. Don’t be afraid to mix and match; beardies like variety!

Big No-no’s!

Dairy, raw meat, avocado, grain, wild caught insects, and ―human food‖.

Supplements Feeding the correct food does not always provide pet bearded dragons with the proper amount of vitamins or calcium they need. It is important to powder their greens and insects with calcium and vitamin powder regularly to keep them healthy. Calcium Powder

Baby/ Juvenile = Once a day.

Sub-adult = Five times a week.

Adult = Three times a week.

o This powder supplies the beardie with calcium which their body uses to make vitamin D in conjunction with their UVB bulb.

o There are two types of calcium powders; the most common is with D3, the harder to find one is without D3. It is best to alternate using both powders but the type of UVB also plays a factor.

Use mostly calcium without D3 if your UVB bulb is mercury vapor. Use mostly calcium with D3 if your UVB bulb is anything other than

mercury vapor. o Dust insects and/ or greens with this powder according to their age. o Good brands include Rep-cal Calcium with/ without Vitamin D3, calcium complex

by beardeddragon.co, and Sticky Tongue Farms Miner-All Calcium. Multivitamin Powder

Baby/ Juvenile = Five times a week

Sub-adult = Three times a week

Adult = Two times a week.

o This powder supplies the beardie with important vitamins they need but can’t get from their normal food.

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o Good brands include Rep-cal Herptivite Multivitamin, and Zoo Med’s Reptivite. Two in One

Baby/ Juvenile = Once a day

Sub-adult = Once every other day.

Adult = Three times a week.

o Brands that are marketed as both calcium and vitamin powders such as Repashy Calcium Plus are formulated for frequent use.

o Use these to dust every meal of bugs.

Health Below is a list of signs that your beardie is healthy

Bright eyes

Alert/ sitting upright and looking around

Well defined fat pads on head

Stools are solid and contain white urate

Maintains appetite

Full, round belly

Below is a list of symptoms that could mean your dragon is sick or has more serious issues. If you notice any of these symptoms, make an appointment with your vet:

Sleeping during day outside of winter months

Less eating and drinking; outside of winter months

Rapid weight loss

Swollen joints

Discolored patches on skin

Discharge from the eyes, nose, or mouth

Loose or runny stool for more than two bowl movements in a row

Constant black beard

Sunken in head/ eyes

Blood in stool

Coughing, puffing, or popping noise

Mouth breathing when cold

Inability to hold itself up when standing Most of the health issues listed above are related to improper lighting, heat, or diet. Revisit the guidelines under Enclosure and Diet after speaking to a vet to help remind you of the proper care and make the appropriate adjustments. Below are details on common health issues (with the exception of burmation), their potential causes, and treatments. Burmation

Bearded dragons naturally experience a period of inactivity called burmation. This is similar to hibernation where they will experience lethargy, reduced eating and drinking, and will sleep the majority of the day. This is normal behavior for the winter months and is an important part of an adult beardie’s natural cycle. Provide a dark place within their enclosure for them to sleep in. Still offer them food and water during this time.

If your beardie is displaying burmation behavior outside of winter months, does not exit burmation, or is under a year old and displaying burmation behavior, please see a veterinary professional.

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A good way to tell between burmation and being sick is to monitor the dragon’s weight. A dragon in burmation will have a lower metabolism and only loose a few grams of weight whereas a sick dragon will rapidly lose weight in a short amount of time.

Stress

Most dragons can handle stressful situations but when the stress persists, it can negatively affect their health. Keep in mind that every dragon is different and every circumstance is different. What may stress out one dragon may have no effect on another.

Not all dragons will show signs of stress. In most cases the signs will show up when the dragon is very ill and needs to see a vet. Different signs of stress include a black beard, a black tail, and lethargy. But there are exceptions. Dragons trying to show dominance will turn their beard and tail black. Dragons will be very sleepy and lethargic during burmation in the winter months.

Things that may stress out your dragon include co-habing, travel, new environments, improper temperatures, force feeding, breeding, laying eggs, reflections in enclosure, going outside, bathing, injury, and illness.

Dehydration

Dragons can become dehydrated if they are kept in drafty areas, not eating the right amount of greens, or is not introduced to water regularly. A severely dehydrated dragon will have sunken in eyes, sunken head, stiff skin, black beard, and be lethargic. To tell if your dragon is dehydrated before it gets too bad is to feel the skin on their back. If the skin feels stiff and stays in place when lightly pinched, they are dehydrated. If the skin moves freely and flattens out when lightly pinched, they are hydrated.

Baths: The best way to keep your dragon hydrated is by filling a clear container large enough for your beardie with shallow luke warm water and placing the beardie inside. Do this twice a week for beardies less than a year old and once a week for beardies over a year old. It may take some splashing around in this water to get them to notice it as well. If they don’t drink within the first five minutes and only try to escape, put them back and try again later.

Spraying: Another good way to keep your dragon hydrates is by using a spray bottle or dripper. Spray their face or drip water onto their nose so they can lick the water. You can also spray their greens and veggies.

Food: Veggies and fruit high in water content also keep your dragon hydrated. These include cucumber, celery, and watermelon. Remember, watery foods have less nutrition so do not feed them every day. A dragon taking in too much water will have very loose and watery poops that make big messes.

Severe Dehydration: A severely dehydrated dragon will die if not given treatment by a vet or experienced rehabilitator. They need close monitoring, regular treatments of electrolytes, and vitamin shots to make a full recovery.

Parasites

If you eat bugs, you get bugs! Insects carry parasites; even ones cultivated at the most prestigious facilities. A beardie fed a regular diet of crickets are at a higher risk of getting parasites. Dragons of all ages have parasites and will always test positive for them. While most of the time their body can handle these intruders in small quantities, over time they can accumulate and make them sick. Improper temperatures and UVB or stress can cause an overpopulation of parasites in a dragon as well. It is important to get your beardie checked regularly once a year for these parasites and get them de-wormed to keep them healthy.

Bacteria

Beardies have a natural culture of bacteria in their system; however these can sometimes overpopulate and make your beardie sick. The most common of these is coccidia. Over

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population is caused by dirty tanks, recycled food that has touched dragon feces, improper lighting, and stress. This can be prevented by regularly cleaning the tank with ammonium chloride or ammonia and keeping your dragon out of stressful situations.

Providing your dragon with probiotics is a great preventative for bacteria imbalances due to stress. Give them dry or liquid probiotics before and after traveling, mating, or laying eggs.

MBD

Metabolic Bone Disease is a blanket term for any ailment related to the skeletal structure. It results from lack of calcium in the diet or proper UVB lighting. Most cases of MBD can be successfully treated and in some cases (dragons under a year old) can be completely reversed. However, this can only be achieved by consultations with a licensed veterinary professional and a significant amount of effort on your part.

Symptoms: Swollen limbs, jerky movements, inability to walk or climb, loss of appetite, constipation, general weakness, paralyzed limbs, lumps or bumps in the spine, round head, and swollen or softened jaw.

Treatment: If you suspect your dragon might have MBD, take them to see a vet right away. Depending on the severity, the vet may administer a number of calcium and vitamin shots. After visiting the vet, assess your husbandry to determine what you can change to help your dragon return to health (ie; dietary supplements and/ or proper UVB lighting).

Infertile Eggs

Females can become gravid with eggs even when they haven’t mated. These eggs will be infertile and can sometimes be reabsorbed by the body or she will lay them. Infertile eggs look like skinny, floppy beans with a slight yellow tint to them or like normal, plump, oval eggs but with only yellow yolk inside. During this time, the female will become very restless, refuse to eat or drink, and will be constantly digging, scratching, and pacing.

To help your beardie lay her eggs, prepare a dig box. Fill a plastic tub or bin with damp play sand and, depending on its size, put it in the tank or take the female out and put her in the dig box. Place her in the dig box daily during this time to encourage her to lay the eggs.

After she has laid them, give her water, food, probiotics, and lots of calcium.

The eggs can be frozen and thrown away. Egg Binding

Egg binding occurs in females that are unable to lay eggs. Binding refers to eggs that sit inside the body too long and create enough pressure to make the organs stick together and hinder their natural processes. This is more common with fertilized eggs as they are larger than infertile ones.

Symptoms of egg binding are severe weight loss, sunken in head, gravid for longer than the normal period of 20 – 30 days, and the in ability to lay eggs.

If your female beardie is displaying these symptoms, take her to a vet straight away. Egg binding can be deadly if not dealt with soon enough.

Femoral Pores

Femoral pores are part of a holocrine secretory gland that releases pheromones to attract mates or mark territory.

Both male and female bearded dragons have femoral pores on the inside of their thighs. Males have more prominent/ noticeable pores that look like big zits. They are filled with a fatty/ keratinous plug that protrudes during the spring mating season. Do not attempt to squeeze or pick at these! Having a rough surface in their enclosure will help slough off these plugs and prevent them from becoming infected or overgrown.

Infected femoral pores will be noticeably swollen, red, tender to the touch, and secreting liquid. Take your beardie to the vet right away if you notice these signs.

Check-ups

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It is a good idea to take your beardie to see a licensed veterinary for a yearly checkup. They will give valuable insight to your beardie’s health that cannot be troubleshooted through the internet or other dragon owners. For instance, fecal tests are important to regularly check your beardie for parasites or bacteria before they can make them sick.

NEVER consult Facebook groups or online forums for your dragon’s health issues.

ALWAYS contact the breeder and/ or your vet the moment you notice an issue. o Note: Some vets may not be as experienced as others when it comes to bearded

dragon health. Choose a vet with exotic animal, reptile, or bearded dragon experience. Try to get second or third opinions from other vets before moving forward with any invasive treatments or procedures.

Safety

ALL ANIMALS can potentially carry viral, bacterial, fungal, and parasitic diseases contagious to humans. Thoroughly wash your hands with warm, soapy water before and after contact with any pet or its habitat. Adults should assist children with hand washing before and after contact with a pet, its habitat or water.

Be careful when taking your beardie outside. Birds of prey have been known to attack even in the company of humans. The beardie also has the potential to eat something it shouldn’t, so keep them supervised or in a secure location at all times when outdoors.

Never fill their drinking or bathing water deeper than their shoulders as they can potentially drown.

Do not feed them anything larger than the space between their eyes as they may choke.

Never leave your animal unattended in a parked car. Carriers can heat up very quickly, especially in the sun, and will kill your animal in a matter of minutes.

USE COMMON SENSE!

Helpful Resources

Rioreptiles.com

Beardeddragon.co (not a .com)

Beautifuldragons.com

Reptilesmagazine.com

Thebeardeddragon.org

Anapsid.org

Thank You!