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color Volume 1
A brayer is a multipurpose tool that looks similar to a paint roller.
Brayers are great for printmaking, painting, paper crafts, and muchmore. Using a brayer ensures consistent results when inking, gluing,
printing, and painting.
There are rubber, acrylic, and sponge brayers available in a number of
different sizes and handle shapes. The type and size you use depends
on what you are using it for. Be sure to choose one that is comfortable
in your hand.
getting to know yourBRAYERBY BARBARA DELANEY
types
Hard rubber brayersfeature
a high-quality rubber rollerand are perfect for embossing,
inking stamps, and gluing.
filling in stencils with paint
or ink. Elastic bands or otherelements can be wrapped or
adhered to the roller to create
1
2
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g p , g g
color Volume 1
care and cleaning
Because a brayer can be used with so many different
materials, it is especially important to clean it after each
use.
Clean the roller and handle before the paint (ink, etc.)
dries. It will be much easier to clean.
Many brayers have removable rollers (Figure 4). If
yours is removable, take the roller out for easier
cleaning.
Most brayers can be cleaned with water, but check
with the ink or paint manufacturer before doing so.
If you use products that cannot be removed with
water, check with the manufacturer before using anyspecial cleaning products.
Use a paper towel or an alcohol-free baby wipe
(so that you dont dry out the roller surface) as a
temporary fix if you cant clean the brayer well right
away.
Pay special attention to the ends of the roller as ink/
paint may build up there. Dont ever use a sharp tool to scrape paint from the
roller as you can easily damage the surface of most
4
Snap in the
acrylic brayer.
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VIDEO
VAULTenter
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TapeTransferCollagewithJulieFei-FanBalzer
NewspaperTransfer
withJeanniePalmerMoore
Image Transfers on Metalwith Robin Dudley Howes
Welcome to video vault,where we keep cool tutorials underlock and key. Just watch and learn. In this issue were bringing you some awesometransfer techniques: metal transfers, newspaper transfers onto organza, and a
collage tape transfer. Are you up to the challenge?
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TapeTransferCollagewithJulieFei-FanBalzer
NewspaperTransfer
withJeanniePalmerMoore
Image Transfers on Metalwith Robin Dudley Howes
TapeTransferCollagewithJulieFei-FanBalzer
Watch Julie Fei-Fan Balzer make a tape
transfer collage.
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TapeTransferCollagewithJulieFei-FanBalzer
NewspaperTransfer
withJeanniePalmerMoore
Image Transfers on Metalwith Robin Dudley Howes
NewspaperTransfer
withJeanniePalmerMoore
See Jeannie Palmer Moore demonstrate how
to transfer newspaper onto organza.
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TapeTransferCollagewithJulieFei-FanBalzer
NewspaperTransfer
withJeanniePalmerMoore
Image Transfers on Metalwith Robin Dudley Howes
Image Transfers on Metalwith Robin Dudley Howes
Watch Robin Dudley Howes make image
transfers onto metals.
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BY HELEN SHAFER GARCIA
Ive always loved the look and
feel of textures, especiallytextures that have an aged,
patina, antique look. There
is something wonderful
about non-perfect marks, the
subtleties of random pattern,
and liquefied hues that flow
into each other. Handprinted
watercolor monotypes give us
the expression of intriguing
texture. I took traditional
printmaking in college, and
quickly decided that traditional
printmaking methods involved
too much prep, too many rules,
watercolor
MONOPRINT for collage
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Rives BFK paper,
heavyweight (280gsm)
Water
Containers for water
(Youll need 2: 1 for
soaking papers, 1 small
one for the soap/water
mixture.)
Dishwashing soap, clear
Acrylic sheets (I use
Plexiglas or frosted
Mylar.)
Paintbrushes, including a
wide, flat brush
Drawing paper
Make the plate
1. Choose the amount of paper
you want to use for printing and
cut or tear the papers to size. The
papers should be the same size as
the acrylic sheet you use.
2. Soak the paper in water for at
least a half hour.
3. While the paper is soaking
in the water, mix the dish soapand the water in a 2:1 mix in the
other container. Keep in mind
that you need enough soap and
water mixture to cover the acrylic
printing plate.
4. Paint the acrylic sheet
(printing plate) surface with the
soap mixture using the wide flat
brush. The soap will release thewatercolor pigment that will
be painted onto the surface
later. Allow the plate to dry
completely.
5. Draw out your design on a
sheet of paper that is at least 1
(on each side) smaller than your
acrylic printing surface and place
your drawing under the printingplate.
6. Use your drawing as a guide
and paint directly onto the dry
soap surface of the printing plate
with watercolors.
Finished collage on monoprint.
WATCH LEARN
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Rives BFK paper,
heavyweight (280gsm)
Water
Containers for water
(Youll need 2: 1 for
soaking papers, 1 small
one for the soap/water
mixture.)
Dishwashing soap, clear
Acrylic sheets (I use
Plexiglas or frosted
Mylar.)
Paintbrushes, including a
wide, flat brush
Drawing paper
Make the plate
1. Choose the amount of paper
you want to use for printing and
cut or tear the papers to size. The
papers should be the same size as
the acrylic sheet you use.
2. Soak the paper in water for at
least a half hour.
3. While the paper is soaking
in the water, mix the dish soapand the water in a 2:1 mix in the
other container. Keep in mind
that you need enough soap and
water mixture to cover the acrylic
printing plate.
4. Paint the acrylic sheet
(printing plate) surface with the
soap mixture using the wide flat
brush. The soap will release thewatercolor pigment that will
be painted onto the surface
later. Allow the plate to dry
completely.
5. Draw out your design on a
sheet of paper that is at least 1
(on each side) smaller than your
acrylic printing surface and place
your drawing under the printingplate.
6. Use your drawing as a guide
and paint directly onto the dry
soap surface of the printing plate
with watercolors.
Finished collage on monoprint.
To save time, I like to prepare
more than 1 printing plate
at a time. You can also usea hair dryer to speed up the
drying process, if desired.
WATCH LEARN
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7. Use water-soluble crayons to
add details, drawing into the wet
watercolor surface or into dryareas. Allow the paint and crayon
to dry.
Printing
1. When you are ready to print,
take 1 sheet of paper out of the
water at a time and place on a dry
towel to absorb the extra water.
The paper should have a damp,
non-shiny surface.
2. Carefully place the Rives
paper over the top of the dried
watercolor printing plate. Being
careful not to shift the paper, use
the baren or a wooden spoon and,
gently rub over the back of the
paper to transfer the image.3. Lift a corner of the paper
to check that the image has
transferred. If the image has fully
transferred, pull the print by
lifting the paper off of the plate in
one gesture. If the image has not
fully transferred, continue to rub
it with the spoon or baren until it
has. Allow to dry.4. If enough watercolor remains
on the printing plate, a second
print or ghost print may be
pulled following the steps 13.
Plate ready for printing.
color
PlatePreparation
Adding Color Pulling a Print
Adding theBackground
WATCH LEARN
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7. Use water-soluble crayons to
add details, drawing into the wet
watercolor surface or into dryareas. Allow the paint and crayon
to dry.
Printing
1. When you are ready to print,
take 1 sheet of paper out of the
water at a time and place on a dry
towel to absorb the extra water.
The paper should have a damp,
non-shiny surface.
2. Carefully place the Rives
paper over the top of the dried
watercolor printing plate. Being
careful not to shift the paper, use
the baren or a wooden spoon and,
gently rub over the back of the
paper to transfer the image.3. Lift a corner of the paper
to check that the image has
transferred. If the image has fully
transferred, pull the print by
lifting the paper off of the plate in
one gesture. If the image has not
fully transferred, continue to rub
it with the spoon or baren until it
has. Allow to dry.4. If enough watercolor remains
on the printing plate, a second
print or ghost print may be
pulled following the steps 13.
The first pull off the plate is numbered
as 1/1 at the bottom left of the
monotype.
color
PlatePreparation
Adding Color Pulling a Print
Adding theBackground
WATCH LEARN
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7. Use water-soluble crayons to
add details, drawing into the wet
watercolor surface or into dryareas. Allow the paint and crayon
to dry.
Printing
1. When you are ready to print,
take 1 sheet of paper out of the
water at a time and place on a dry
towel to absorb the extra water.
The paper should have a damp,
non-shiny surface.
2. Carefully place the Rives
paper over the top of the dried
watercolor printing plate. Being
careful not to shift the paper, use
the baren or a wooden spoon and,
gently rub over the back of the
paper to transfer the image.3. Lift a corner of the paper
to check that the image has
transferred. If the image has fully
transferred, pull the print by
lifting the paper off of the plate in
one gesture. If the image has not
fully transferred, continue to rub
it with the spoon or baren until it
has. Allow to dry.4. If enough watercolor remains
on the printing plate, a second
print or ghost print may be
pulled following the steps 13.
The second pull off the plate is called a
ghost print and is the remnant of the
previous paint left on the plate.
color
PlatePreparation
Adding Color Pulling a Print
Adding theBackground
WATCH LEARN
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Embellishing and collage
I start out with watercolor washes in sections of
my monoprint that I want to enhance. After thewashes are dry, I start my collage process. I like
to use my own hand-carved stamp images for
collage. I print on white or off-white rice paper
with solvent-based ink pads and then paint
watercolor tints onto the stamped image after
the stamp ink has dried. This allows the color
on the stamped rice paper to blend with the
monotype colors. These small images are great
for interest and layering. Acrylic soft gel workswell to glue the images to the monotype.
I also add bits of handmade decorative papers
for interest. Thin bits of ephemera papers also
work well as long as the monotype textures
show through the layers in some areas.
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Embellishing and collage
I start out with watercolor washes in sections of
my monoprint that I want to enhance. After thewashes are dry, I start my collage process. I like
to use my own hand-carved stamp images for
collage. I print on white or off-white rice paper
with solvent-based ink pads and then paint
watercolor tints onto the stamped image after
the stamp ink has dried. This allows the color
on the stamped rice paper to blend with the
monotype colors. These small images are great
for interest and layering. Acrylic soft gel workswell to glue the images to the monotype.
I also add bits of handmade decorative papers
for interest. Thin bits of ephemera papers also
work well as long as the monotype textures
show through the layers in some areas.
After printing, adding collageto the monotype offers instant
gratification. Bright colors, lines,
and shapes pop with little effort.
The trick is not to go overboard
and end up covering all of the
nuances of the underlying
monotype.
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Read about it
Plate Preparation
Caption
Frost Leaves II
color
PlatePreparation
Adding Color Pulling a Print
Adding theBackground
WATCH LEARN
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Frost Leaves
Read about it
Adding Color
Caption
color
PlatePreparation
Adding Color Pulling a Print
Adding theBackground
WATCH LEARN
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Peace Artichoke
Read about it
Adding the Background
Caption
color
PlatePreparation
Adding Color Pulling a Print
Adding theBackground
WATCH LEARN
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Read about it
Life is a Dream
Pulling a Print
Caption
color
PlatePreparation
Adding Color Pulling a Print
Adding theBackground
WATCH LEARN
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Torn-PaperPaintings
BY WANDA EDWARDS
I tried to explore
collage, but never found
satisfaction in the
traditional style of cutting
images and putting them
together. It just never
clicked for me. That is,until I realized that I could
create images using papers
as my paint, resulting in
Having been a watercolorartist for years, I
suddenly developedan urge for more depth
and texture.
color
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Part of the challenge of this process
is in finding just the right pieces
to add to the work for the viewer
to find. Papers with tiny almost
unseen images, text that is partof the story of the piece, and even
personal paper bits can be added. So
much depth can be created through
layering. The viewer takes in the
image as a whole and then moves
into the piece to see the multitude of
layers that actually create the image.
Most of my subject matter comes
from the coastal New England areawhere I live. I am minutes away
from the ocean and my home sits
by a lovely little pond, so it is no
wonder that beaches, fish, coastal
birds, and summer nostalgia are all
part of what I create. My watercolor
background draws me to a mostly
light and airy palette.
Much of my work is created
outdoors on warm sunny days when
I take all of my rice papers, book
pages, and sheet music outside
with my paints to create the colored
papers I need for my work. I also
make some handmade papers as
well so that I have a wide range of
textures.
color
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CollagePaintingStep-by-step
1. Paint the entire surface of the
canvas with the main body color. I
also paint the sides of the canvas
with this color.
2. Once the initial color is dry,
create a pencil sketch of your
chosen subject on your canvas.
This gives you placement for the
foreground and background.
Step 1
Stretched canvas
Acrylic paints
Paintbrush
Pencil
Gel medium (I use
Liquitex matte Gel
Medium for my glue.)
Varnish (I use Liquitex
Matte Varnish.)
Papers: pre-painted rice
papers, book pages, found
and purchased papers,
Washi papers, handmade
papers, etc.
color
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CollagePaintingStep-by-step
1. Paint the entire surface of the
canvas with the main body color. I
also paint the sides of the canvaswith this color.
2. Once the initial color is dry,
create a pencil sketch of your
chosen subject on your canvas.
This gives you placement for the
foreground and background.
Step 2
Stretched canvas
Acrylic paints
Paintbrush
Pencil
Gel medium (I use
Liquitex matte Gel
Medium for my glue.)
Varnish (I use Liquitex
Matte Varnish.)
Papers: pre-painted rice
papers, book pages, found
and purchased papers,
Washi papers, handmade
papers, etc.
color
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CollagePaintingStep-by-step
1. Paint the entire surface of the
canvas with the main body color. I
also paint the sides of the canvaswith this color.
2. Once the initial color is dry,
create a pencil sketch of your
chosen subject on your canvas.
This gives you placement for the
foreground and background.
Step 3
Stretched canvas
Acrylic paints
Paintbrush
Pencil
Gel medium (I use
Liquitex matte Gel
Medium for my glue.)
Varnish (I use Liquitex
Matte Varnish.)
Papers: pre-painted rice
papers, book pages, found
and purchased papers,
Washi papers, handmade
papers, etc.
color
l
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CollagePaintingStep-by-step
1. Paint the entire surface of the
canvas with the main body color. I
also paint the sides of the canvaswith this color.
2. Once the initial color is dry,
create a pencil sketch of your
chosen subject on your canvas.
This gives you placement for the
foreground and background.
Step 4
Stretched canvas
Acrylic paints
Paintbrush
Pencil
Gel medium (I use
Liquitex matte Gel
Medium for my glue.)
Varnish (I use Liquitex
Matte Varnish.)
Papers: pre-painted rice
papers, book pages, found
and purchased papers,
Washi papers, handmade
papers, etc.
color
l
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CollagePaintingStep-by-step
1. Paint the entire surface of the
canvas with the main body color. I
also paint the sides of the canvaswith this color.
2. Once the initial color is dry,
create a pencil sketch of your
chosen subject on your canvas.
This gives you placement for the
foreground and background.
Step 5
Stretched canvas
Acrylic paints
Paintbrush
Pencil
Gel medium (I use
Liquitex matte Gel
Medium for my glue.)
Varnish (I use Liquitex
Matte Varnish.)
Papers: pre-painted rice
papers, book pages, found
and purchased papers,
Washi papers, handmade
papers, etc.
color
l
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CollagePaintingStep-by-step
1. Paint the entire surface of the
canvas with the main body color. I
also paint the sides of the canvaswith this color.
2. Once the initial color is dry,
create a pencil sketch of your
chosen subject on your canvas.
This gives you placement for the
foreground and background.
Step 6
Stretched canvas
Acrylic paints
Paintbrush
Pencil
Gel medium (I use
Liquitex matte Gel
Medium for my glue.)
Varnish (I use Liquitex
Matte Varnish.)
Papers: pre-painted rice
papers, book pages, found
and purchased papers,
Washi papers, handmade
papers, etc.
color
l
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3. Start tearing and placing
papers to create the background.
I start with the sky. For this part I
normally look for imagery and text
that relate to the subject.
Apply the papers with gel medium,
spreading it both under and over
the papers as you apply them.
Make sure there are no air bubbles.
4. Brush on a light wash of the
same acrylic color you used to
initially cover the canvas. This
unifies the papers and pushesthem further into the background.
5. Using acrylics, paint the
subject onto the canvas. Keep it
simple, with few details, since it
is mainly to create a road map for
the application of the papers, and
to help establish the lights and
darks and color variations. Allow
the paint to dry.
note:This will look very different once
its covered in bits of papers, so dont
worry about creating a work of art at
this stage.
color
l
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Torn-paper paintings
Watch Wandas time-lapsed video of her torn-paper process.
6. Apply the papers. As with
traditional painting, work from
the background to the foreground.This also makes it easier to
overlap some of the papers as you
work forward.
Let your finished piece dry for a
day or two, and then brush on a
thin coat (or two) of matte varnish
to strengthen and protect the
piece.
Watch how you tear your papers.
When you tear some papers it
leaves a white edge. Tearing these
papers in the opposite direction will
reduce this. When tearing a piece
for a curved area I tear in the arc ofthe curve. I plan the placement of
text and design around my tearing
as well.
tearing tip
color
l
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color
BY JENN MASON
If I had to pick any job in
the world other than the
one I have now, Id be a
color namer. I just lovecolors. Have you been to
the paint department at
the hardware store lately?
Its like color heaven! It
takes all of my willpower
to keep me from leavingthe store with 200 paint
swatches.
Complem
enta
rycolors [ Select a color to see
its complement]
View All
Primary Colors
Secondary Colors
color
l
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color
BY JENN MASON
If I had to pick any job in
the world other than the
one I have now, Id be a
color namer. I just lovecolors. Have you been to
the paint department at
the hardware store lately?
Its like color heaven! It
takes all of my willpower
to keep me from leavingthe store with 200 paint
swatches.
Complem
enta
rycolors [ Select a color to see
its complement]
View All
Primary Colors
Secondary Colors
color
l
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color
BY JENN MASON
If I had to pick any job in
the world other than the
one I have now, Id be a
color namer. I just lovecolors. Have you been to
the paint department at
the hardware store lately?
Its like color heaven! It
takes all of my willpower
to keep me from leavingthe store with 200 paint
swatches.
Complem
enta
rycolors [ Select a color to see
its complement]
View All
Primary Colors
Secondary Colors
color
l
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color
BY JENN MASON
If I had to pick any job in
the world other than the
one I have now, Id be a
color namer. I just lovecolors. Have you been to
the paint department at
the hardware store lately?
Its like color heaven! It
takes all of my willpower
to keep me from leavingthe store with 200 paint
swatches.
Complem
enta
rycolors [ Select a color to see
its complement]
View All
Primary Colors
Secondary Colors
Red-GreenCompleme
nt
color
l
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color
BY JENN MASON
If I had to pick any job in
the world other than the
one I have now, Id be a
color namer. I just love
colors. Have you been to
the paint department at
the hardware store lately?
Its like color heaven! It
takes all of my willpower
to keep me from leavingthe store with 200 paint
swatches.
Complem
enta
rycolors [ Select a color to see
its complement]
View All
Primary Colors
Secondary Colors
Orange-BlueComplement
color
l
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color
BY JENN MASON
If I had to pick any job in
the world other than the
one I have now, Id be a
color namer. I just love
colors. Have you been to
the paint department at
the hardware store lately?
Its like color heaven! It
takes all of my willpower
to keep me from leavingthe store with 200 paint
swatches.
Complem
enta
rycolors [ Select a color to see
its complement]
View All
Primary Colors
Secondary Colors
Yellow
-Purple
Comp
lement
color
lo
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Veiled Woman By Becky Anzelone
(orange-blue)
Complementary colors are the
colors just opposite each other on
the color wheel. They can be tricky
to use together. When used in the
right proportions they produce
a lovely vividness of color, butmixing them together in paint
form can make mud.
The basic complementary color
sets are red and green, blue and
orange, and yellow and purple.
You can use these colors as is,
or tweak their saturation to get
infinite combinations. Using red
and green together, a piece of
art can immediately take on a
Christmas tone, but if you shift
your colors to pink (a shade of red)
and spring green, you get a classiccombination that doesnt make
you think of sleigh bells.
Another great use for
complementary colors is to
help make other colors in your
composition pop. If you had a
collage with mostly lemon-yellow
A red and green complement is not limited to a traditional holiday theme,try varying the colors with the use of white or black.
color
lor
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Veiled Woman By Becky Anzelone
(orange-blue)
Complementary colors are the
colors just opposite each other on
the color wheel. They can be tricky
to use together. When used in the
right proportions they produce
a lovely vividness of color, butmixing them together in paint
form can make mud.
The basic complementary color
sets are red and green, blue and
orange, and yellow and purple.
You can use these colors as is,
or tweak their saturation to get
infinite combinations. Using red
and green together, a piece of
art can immediately take on a
Christmas tone, but if you shift
your colors to pink (a shade of red)
and spring green, you get a classiccombination that doesnt make
you think of sleigh bells.
Another great use for
complementary colors is to
help make other colors in your
composition pop. If you had a
collage with mostly lemon-yellow
In any color complement, there is a wide range of possibilties to explore.This combination shows a reddish-orange paired with aqua blue.
color
olor
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Veiled Woman By Becky Anzelone
(orange-blue)
Complementary colors are the
colors just opposite each other on
the color wheel. They can be tricky
to use together. When used in the
right proportions they produce
a lovely vividness of color, butmixing them together in paint
form can make mud.
The basic complementary color
sets are red and green, blue and
orange, and yellow and purple.
You can use these colors as is,
or tweak their saturation to get
infinite combinations. Using red
and green together, a piece of
art can immediately take on a
Christmas tone, but if you shift
your colors to pink (a shade of red)
and spring green, you get a classiccombination that doesnt make
you think of sleigh bells.
Another great use for
complementary colors is to
help make other colors in your
composition pop. If you had a
collage with mostly lemon-yellow
In this yellow-purple complement, the yellow takes the form ofa deep ochre, and the purple hints at blue-black.
color
olor
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tones, adding just a touch of deep purple in the
shadows or to the focal point of your piece can
magically make the yellow come alive.
The images in this article are provided by
our Facebook fansand past contributors to
C P S.
We All Have Stories
to Tell by Loretta
Benedetto Marvel
(red-orange and
blue-green)
Florescense by Karen Isaacson
(orange and blue)
colorCOMPLEMENTS
gallery
color
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Cross Perforated
Metals by Abby
Glassenberg
(red and green)
Untitled by Magaly
Ohika (dark red and
olive green)
Fly By Seth Apter (orange and blue)
colorCOMPLEMENTS
gallery
color
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Our Lady of Perpetual Debt II by
Dae Rebec Sanchez (red/coral andlight green)
Piterskoie Okno by Natalya Aikens
(lavender and yellow )
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I love using paint, paper,and oil pastels together
when making collage art.
Birds on Buntings
BY MANDY RUSSELL
Throw in a little modeling
paste and you have the
perfect combination of art
ingredients! The modeling
paste and paint layers
combined create an
overall aged and imperfect
look while giving these
chunky pieces quite a bit
of texture.
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1. Use sandpaper to quickly
remove any splinters or rough
edges on the wood pieces. Then
prime the front and all 4 sides
with gesso. Let dry completely.
2. Using the credit card, spread
the modeling paste over the
primed front and sides of the
wood, as if you were frosting
a cake. While the paste is still
wet, very lightly rake the short
edge of the card over the front
side of the wood in a top-to-
bottom direction, repeating this
motion every inch or so across
the entire front of the piece. The
goal is to create irregular, top-
to-bottom line-like peaks while
smoothing out any major globs
of modeling paste. (Figure 1)
3. Repeat for each of the sides
except rake in a right-to-left
direction. Let the paste dry
completely.
4. Make a wash by mixing
1 part brown paint to 3 parts
water. Using the foam brush,
paint the wash over the front
and sides of the wood covering
the modeling paste completely.
Let dry.(Figure 2)
Sandpaper
Gesso, one tub
Modeling paste, one
946 ml tub is enough
for 14 pieces
(I used Liquitex
modeling paste.)
Decorative papers,a variety to share
Acrylic paint, brown,
one 4 oz. tube
Water
Container for mixing
paint
Solvent ink pad,black, to share
(I used Sta_
zOn
jet black.)
Cotton Swabs, one
small box to share
Light blue and/or aqua
acrylic paint, two or
three 4 oz. bottles
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1. Use sandpaper to quickly
remove any splinters or rough
edges on the wood pieces. Then
prime the front and all 4 sides
with gesso. Let dry completely.
2. Using the credit card, spread
the modeling paste over the
primed front and sides of the
wood, as if you were frosting
a cake. While the paste is still
wet, very lightly rake the short
edge of the card over the front
side of the wood in a top-to-
bottom direction, repeating this
motion every inch or so across
the entire front of the piece. The
goal is to create irregular, top-
to-bottom line-like peaks while
smoothing out any major globs
of modeling paste. (Figure 1)
3. Repeat for each of the sides
except rake in a right-to-left
direction. Let the paste dry
completely.
4. Make a wash by mixing
1 part brown paint to 3 parts
water. Using the foam brush,
paint the wash over the front
and sides of the wood covering
the modeling paste completely.
Let dry. (Figure 2)
Sandpaper
Gesso, one tub
Modeling paste, one
946 ml tub is enough
for 14 pieces
(I used Liquitex
modeling paste.)
Decorative papers,a variety to share
Acrylic paint, brown,
one 4 oz. tube
Water
Container for mixing
paint
Solvent ink pad,black, to share
(I used Sta_
zOn
jet black.)
Cotton Swabs, one
small box to share
Light blue and/or aqua
acrylic paint, two or
three 4 oz. bottles
To eliminate some wait time at the art party, I suggest
Step One be completed beforehand, that way partygoers
can start by rolling up their sleeves and frosting their piece
with the modeling paste.
While you are waiting
for the paste to dry, its a
good time to work on yourbunting. Place the decorative
papers in the middle of the
work table for your guests
to choose from. Cut out an
uneven number of triangles
for the bunting, I usually
use 59 triangles, measuring
about 114" top to bottom and
approximately 1" wide at thebase.
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5. While your wash is drying,
choose the birds you want to add
to your line, from the selection
provided (last page of this article)or
draw your own, and cut them out
using sharp scissors. Take eachbird, one at a time, and place it,
front-side down, on the black ink
pad. Tap all over the cutout with
a cotton swab until the paper
is saturated with ink. Carefully
remove the bird from the ink pad
and let it dry thoroughly.
6. Pour a few big puddles of the
light blue or aqua paint onto thefront of the wood piece. Using
only the credit card (no brushes
allowed!), spread the paint all over
the front and sides, working it
into any crevices. Then, using light
pressure and the short edge of the
credit card, smooth out the paint
in a top-to-bottom direction across
the front of the piece, wiping offthe excess paint from the credit
card as you go. You will see the
brown under-paint pop through the
blue paint along any raised areas.
Repeat for the 4 sides, working in a
right-to-left direction. Let dry. Once
the blue paint has dried, the collage
fun begins!
Waiting for your paint to dry is a great time to break for snacks.
Make this up beforehand, or give each person a
cup and some ingredients, and let them create
their own!
Fruit & Cake TrifleIngredients
Serves 12
5 cups cut-up fresh fruit
such as berries, peaches,
nectarines, and/or mangoes
cup sugar
1 cup water
2 Sara Lee frozen pound
cakes (thawed), cut into
1 cubes
Cool Whip, or can of
whipped cream
Directions
1. Place the cut-up fruit
in a medium-sized mixingbowl. Add the sugar and
water and stir well.
Let it sit for 20
minutes.
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7. Choose an oil pastel and
draw the sagging line for the
buntingacross the front of the
wood. Begin just under the top-leftcorner and swoop down, almost
touching the midline center, and
then swoop up again, almost to the
top-right corner.
8. Following the line from left
to right, apply slight pressure
with your pointer finger or a
cotton swab and smudge the line,
smoothing out any little bits ofoil pastel along the way, and then
smudge upwards, in short little
motions, all along the line.
9. Place the bunting triangles
along the line you just made,
beginning with a triangle in the
very center. You may need to
trim the edges of the triangles a
bit or adjust their placement tofind the most visually appealing
arrangement. Keep in mind that
you want to be able to see some
of the smudged line above the
triangles.
colo
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7. Choose an oil pastel and
draw the sagging line for the
buntingacross the front of the
wood. Begin just under the top-leftcorner and swoop down, almost
touching the midline center, and
then swoop up again, almost to the
top-right corner.
8. Following the line from left
to right, apply slight pressure
with your pointer finger or a
cotton swab and smudge the line,
smoothing out any little bits ofoil pastel along the way, and then
smudge upwards, in short little
motions, all along the line.
9. Place the bunting triangles
along the line you just made,
beginning with a triangle in the
very center. You may need to
trim the edges of the triangles a
bit or adjust their placement tofind the most visually appealing
arrangement. Keep in mind that
you want to be able to see some
of the smudged line above the
triangles.
If drawing the line freehand makes
you uncomfortable, use painters tape
to map out the line beforehand.
co
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10. When you are satisfied with
the look of your bunting, use
Mod Podge and a foam brush
to adhere the triangles to thefront of the wood piece. Always
start in the center and work
outwards, remembering to cover
each triangle with Mod Podge
immediately after sticking it down.
Make sure to cover the oil pastel
line with the Mod Podge as well.
Let dry. (Figure 3)
11. Use the Souffle pen, or anotherdimensional pen, to draw a thin
line along the bunting, barely
touching the tops of the triangles.
12. Place the birds on the
bunting (download the PDF on the
right), playing around with their
arrangement until you like what
you see, then adhere the birds with
the Mod Podge using the foambrush. Cover the entire front and
sides of the wood with the Mod
Podge to seal it, and then let it dry.
13. Paint the back of the piece and
let it dry. I used brown for this.Use a ruler to center the sawtooth
hanger on the back of the wood,
1" down from the top, and nail it
in place. Dont forget to sign your
name with the permanent
marker.
Download theinvitation
Download theBird Illustration
co
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10. When you are satisfied with
the look of your bunting, use
Mod Podge and a foam brush
to adhere the triangles to thefront of the wood piece. Always
start in the center and work
outwards, remembering to cover
each triangle with Mod Podge
immediately after sticking it down.
Make sure to cover the oil pastel
line with the Mod Podge as well.
Let dry. (Figure 3)
11. Use the Souffle pen, or anotherdimensional pen, to draw a thin
line along the bunting, barely
touching the tops of the triangles.
12. Place the birds on the
bunting (download the PDF on the
right), playing around with their
arrangement until you like what
you see, then adhere the birds with
the Mod Podge using the foambrush. Cover the entire front and
sides of the wood with the Mod
Podge to seal it, and then let it dry.
13. Paint the back of the piece and
let it dry. I used brown for this.Use a ruler to center the sawtooth
hanger on the back of the wood,
1" down from the top, and nail it
in place. Dont forget to sign your
name with the permanent
marker.
Download theinvitation
Download theBird Illustration
c