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SEPTEMBER 2011 Heads up THE CITY’S LEADING WOMEN / BESPOKE FEMININE TAILORING / PERU: BEYOND MACHU PICCHU SHOOTING: CHOOSE YOUR WEAPON / NEW RANGE ROVER / TIME ZONE-CROSSING WATCHES THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK FOR THE CITY

Brummell Magazine September 2011

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Page 1: Brummell Magazine September 2011

SEPTEMBER 2011

Heads upTHE CITY’S LEADING WOMEN / BESPOKE FEMININE TAILORING / PERU: BEYOND MACHU PICCHU

SHOOTING: CHOOSE YOUR WEAPON / NEW RANGE ROVER / TIME ZONE-CROSSING WATCHES

THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK FOR THE CITY

Page 2: Brummell Magazine September 2011

Breguet, the innovator.Type XXII 10Hz, high-frequency chronograph

A contemporary interpretation of the legendary Type XX supplied in 1960

to the French Naval Air Force, the Type XII is the first series-produced

mechanical chronograph to feature a regulating mechanism that oscillates at

a frequency of 10Hz, enabling measurements to 1/20 th of a second. This

major technical innovation is made possible by the physical properties of

silicon and the lighter weight of the escapement components; considerably

enhancing the watch’s regulating performance. History is still being written...

www.breguet.com/inventions

Page 3: Brummell Magazine September 2011

B R E G U E T B O U T I Q U E – 1 0 A N E W B O N D S T R E E T L O N D O N W 1 S 3 S P + 4 4 2 0 7 3 5 5 17 3 5 – W W W. B R E G U E T. C O M

Page 4: Brummell Magazine September 2011

Watch in titanium ceramic, a new highly scratch-resistant material.Its unique colour and shine are obtained by the addition of titanium to ceramic and diamond powder polishing.

Self-winding mechanical movement. 42-hour power reserve. Water resistant to 200 metres.ww

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www.blancpain.com

Blancpain Boutiques aBu DHaBi · BeiJinG · cannes · DuBai · eKateRinBuRG · GeneVa · HonG KonG · Macau · MaDRiD · ManaMa

MoscoW · MuMBai · MunicH · neW YoRK · paRis · sHanGHai · sinGapoRe · taipei · toKYo · ZuRicH

0845 273 2500

Villeret collectioncomplete calendar Half-Hunter

Patented under-lugs correctorsSecured calendar and moon-phases mechanism

Ref. 6664-3642-55B

Page 9: Brummell Magazine September 2011

CONTENTS | BRUMMELL 09

Foreword

David Charters tells his male colleagues

they should put down the Cristal, step

away from the ridiculous sports car and

get in touch with their feminine side

Money no object A watch for women who care as much

about precision movements as looks

BeaumondeNews

The new Jaguar suite at 51 Buckingham

Gate; Spencer Hart’s flagship store opening;

the next-gen mobile headset and more

Bespoke dressing

One of the few tailors in London who

specialises in clothing women

Watches

Timepieces that tell you Hang Sen and

Dow times more elegantly than those

boring grey clocks on the office wall

After the City

Natalia Barbieri gave up Forex trading at

Deutsche Bank to design shoes that are

handmade in Milan and worn by the A-list

FeaturesHead for the top

Meet eight of the high-flyers who made

the 2011 FN100 Influential Women list

TravelDiscovering the treasures Peru offers away

from the crowds climbing Machu Picchu

Shooting

Make sure your commitment to over-and-

under or side-by-side is no shotgun wedding

Style

Dressing for work doesn’t mean ‘workwear’

when the fabrics are this sumptuous

By George

The new Range Rover Evoque – sporty,

luxurious but still handles a potholed track

10

13

15

18

21

24

27

37

40

44

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Contents

Show Media Brummell editorial 020 3222 0101

Editor

Joanne Glasbey

Art Director

Dominic Bell

Associate Editor

Henry Farrar-Hockley

Chief Copy Editor

Chris Madigan

Picture EditorJuliette Hedoin

Designer

Hillary Jayne

Copy Editors

Ming Liu, Sarah Evans, Gill Wing

Fashion Director

Tamara Fulton

Styling Assistant Pop Kampol

Creative Director

Ian Pendleton

Managing Director

Peter Howarth

Advertising & Events Director

Duncan McRae

[email protected]

07816 218059

showmedia.net

[email protected]

Visit Brummell’s website for

more tailor-made content:

brummellmagazine.net

Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group, wearefmg.com

Printed by The Manson Group, manson-grp.co.uk

Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd

and distributed with Financial News. All material ©

Show Media Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without

written permission is strictly prohibited. While every

effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information

contained in this publication, no responsibility can

be accepted for any errors or omissions. The information

contained in this publication is correct at the time of

going to press. £5 (where sold).

Cover illustration by Borja Bonaque

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FOReWORD | BRUMMeLL 11

Does success spoil women less than men? In the City, it is hard to draw a meaningful conclusion. The number of women in senior revenue-generating roles is not as low as it was, but still not where it should be. Those who make it are probably not representative of a broader group, and anyway we are not supposed to generalise. Labellism is the last great ‘-ism’ that needs a stake driven through its heart, so let’s bin the stereotypes and look at real people instead.

Except that the stereotypes do seem to have something going for them. When men ‘make it’, how do they react? If making it means big pay cheques, then there are certainly an awful lot of men in whom it does not bring out the best.

I went through the classic boy-trader phase myself when I broke through the million-pound-a-year barrier almost two decades (and two divorces) ago: the big country house with land and woods and lakes (yes, size does matter); the fast car – how many men do you see sitting in traffic in the Square Mile in supercars that they can barely park let alone drive properly? – and of course the expensive holidays to the places that all the other bankers go to so we can all be together on holiday the way we are at work.

But it felt good. It was tangible evidence of success, the realisation that I had made it, and who could possibly challenge me, when I could point to all the gold and silver in my trophy cabinet?

And of course there were things that we did to excess, not because we needed to, but because we could. We didn’t really need to drink Cristal all day at the Rascasse Café while we watched the Monaco Grand Prix, but when we staggered out at the end of the day to catch the helicopter back to Nice for the flight home,

My female colleagues did not

feel the need to party hard,

or drink to excess or leave their

spouse for a younger model

it showed that we were men. If it all sounds a little superficial, that’s because it was.

It was not universal. There were an awful lot of quieter, serious men who did not overdo it, stayed grounded and avoided most of the pitfalls awaiting the unwary. But I guess they were a minority.

My female colleagues were different. They were partly different because their starting points were different. For those with children, the principal source of their self-esteem seemed not to be the trading floor, but their home and family. They did not feel the need to party hard to prove their femininity, or drink to excess, or leave their spouse for a younger model to show their allure. They were more focused, more serious, and probably more conscious that success was not something they could take for granted.

And the pressures on women are different. Men can be themselves. Aggressive, sharp-elbowed, single-minded and determined. If women show similar characteristics they risk being viewed as pushy, unfeminine and shrill. Double standards? Sure, but it is a competitive world out there, the prizes are huge, and anything that holds back a potential competitor is fair game.

High-powered City women who have children are condemned to juggling, because they never forget they are mothers. High- powered men have their wives to delegate to.

Gender stereotypes may be misleading, but personal experience would

suggest that female financiers react better to success than their

male counterparts. Would the City benefit from fewer men behaving madly?

Words David Charters Illustration Jack Hudson

Sanity, thyname is woman

Of course, we are all modern fathers now, we put in face time at speech day and nativity plays (if only we could delegate those…) and we are proud of the number of nappies we change at weekends when the nanny is off – though quite why she is off at weekends when I get home and need to relax is beyond me.

The difference is that women carry it round in their heads all the time. Most men are not capable of multitasking, especially if they are doing the equivalent of flying a fast jet in combat on the trading floor already.

And there are those exceptional husbands who stay at home. Other men praise them, pay lip service to their achievement, cite them as examples of modern men overturning stereotypes, but after a few beers in the car park at Twickenham, when real men are comparing notes, no one says they wish they were a househusband.

The reality is that only a thin veneer of civilisation covers the brute nature of man, and the pressures of the City – huge risk, huge reward and, in professional terms, sudden death at any time – tend to make it wear thin. We are primitive, status-conscious and selfish. Modern technology adds to our problems – a short attention span, low boredom threshold, the need for instant gratification.

Yet we still demand unconditional love. And who can provide it? That’s right. And they do, while still competing head to head with us at work and often winning. I have a troublesome feeling that I may be on the wrong side of evolution. Perhaps the innate superiority of women is going to make us all redundant. Perhaps it is time it did.

‘The Ego’s Nest’, the fifth novel in the Dave Hart series about life in the City by David Charters, is published by Elliott and Thompson, price £6.99

Page 12: Brummell Magazine September 2011

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126-127 New Bond Street, Tel. 0207 2903 500

[email protected]

Page 13: Brummell Magazine September 2011

bRUMMELL 13

It is because women are so often practically minded

that the majority of watches aimed at them contain

quartz movements. They keep better time than

mechanical ones, are cheaper, are usually more

robust and will run for years on one tiny battery.

But no true horolophile would give a quartz

movement wrist room: mechanical movements

are all to do with the heart of the machine,

the components that turn and mesh and pulse

and that ultimately lend soul to a watch.

And now more women are demanding

mechanical-movement watches, which is why

Omega has introduced a new range of Ladymatic

The Omega Ladymatic contains the best mechanical

movement found in any woman’s watch, with beauty to match

Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter

MONEY NO

OBJECT

models containing the groundbreaking 'Co-Axial'

movement, one of the most accurate on the market.

Invented by English horologist Dr George

Daniels and first used by Omega in 1999,

the Co-Axial is designed to keep superb time and,

to quote the original spiel, ‘remain unaffected by

the deterioration of its lubricant.’

Each Ladymatic comes with a four-year

warranty and, even better, has a transparent case

back so you can see everything working. Far more

interesting than looking at a boring old battery.

Omega Ladymatic in rose gold and diamonds,

£22,300; omegawatches.com

Page 14: Brummell Magazine September 2011

Glashütte Original – 165 years of German watchmaking art.

Seventies Panorama Date

The Seventies Panorama Date. Flowing curves capture the spirit of the Seventies in a fascinating, iconic design. The domed sapphire crystal case

back and easily-adjustable bracelet offer the ultimate in wearability. Discover the art of fine German watchmaking at www.glashuette-original.com.

Download our new iPhone Application in the App store.

London W1S 2SA 43-44 New Bond Street T: 020.7493 2299

Paris Vienna Madrid New York Hamburg Berlin Munich www.wempe.com

Page 15: Brummell Magazine September 2011

15news | beAumonde

A Parisian debut, whisky masterclasses and an invitation to an exclusive event

exclusive invitation: unsung Heroes eventbrummell has joined up with Leica, bremont and Piper-Heidsieck Champagne for an exclusive event celebrating ‘unsung Heroes’ on Tuesday, 4 october (6.30-9pm) at the Leica studio, 34 bruton Place, w1. expedition photographer martin Hartley will speak about his experiences photographing some of the world’s most remote and challenging environments. Leica is offering the opportunity to attend a photography workshop at the Leica Akademie on using its new m9 camera. And bremont will celebrate the release of the P-51 limited edition chronograph chronometer (right) with a prize draw to fly with one of the brand’s founders, nick and Giles english, in their Fifties broussard plane. Champagne will be provided courtesy of Piper-Heidsieck. To request your ticket, email your name and address to [email protected]

Hearing aide ↑One of the downsides of using your mobile as

a personal organiser is how you check your

calendar while simultaneously taking a call.

The Jawbone ERA eradicates such multitasking

conundrums courtesy of its military-endorsed,

Bluetooth-based wireless technology. Not only

does this discreet earpiece automatically

adjust volume levels to accommodate external

interference, it also lets you dictate text

messages and receive a spoken caller ID on

incoming phone calls. Using it is simple too.

Shake the ERA to pair it with your phone, then

tap anywhere on the device to answer – and end

– calls. Now we're talking. £99.99; jawbone.com

one-stop shoe shop ↑This summer saw the welcome

opening of the Harrods men’s shoe

department – the largest in Europe.

Visit the lower ground floor to take

advantage of all the best footwear

brands in one place – bringing

together the traditional masters of

handcrafted footwear, sought-after

designers and upcoming names.

Take your pick from the latest

styles by Grenson, Church’s, Paul

Smith, Balenciaga and Ralph

Lauren, to name a few. Or order

from the bespoke service which

will personalise shoes in any

chosen colour, leather and finish,

and visit the Exotic Room for

footwear and accessories in an

array of colours and skins, including

snake, ostrich and stingray.

harrods.com/mens-shoe-salon

Dedicated drams

Whisky aficionados should mark their

diaries to drop by The Whisky Exchange

Whisky Show at Vinopolis, SE1 (7–8

October). Examples of the master distiller’s

art are available for all to taste with an

all-inclusive ticket, so visitors can sample

whiskies from around the world: Japanese,

Indian, even English. As much for novices

as for collectors and connoisseurs, the show

also offers masterclasses and a dinner

designed by whisky and food pairing

expert Martine Nouet.

whisky-show.com

Page 16: Brummell Magazine September 2011

16 beaumonde | news

man made Mass-market fragrance is a little bit like the

Hollywood studio system: too often, too many

people get a say in how it all ends, and the

outcome is a product that lacks originality and

soon fades. Independent fragrance brands, on

the other hand, have far more creative freedom.

Take the family-run Sisley, whose first men’s

fragrance has been over 20 years in the

making. And Eau d’Ikar is certainly worth the

wait. It is first and foremost a lush green scent,

but gradually becomes a heartier accord of

wood, leather and spice that’s deserving of

lasting star status. From £57; sisley.com

sweater savant Nestled in the hills of Solomeo in central Italy,

a renovated medieval fort seems a most unusual

home for a factory. But then, Brunello Cucinelli

is a most unusual man. A cashmere expert who

first introduced colour to the fabric, and whose

brand is today sold worldwide, the self-professed

businessman-philosopher has also devised the

‘Humanistic Company’, vowing to always put

human values first and to encourage creativity.

In the tiny hamlet of Solomeo he has carefully

restored the fort where his factory is based, the

old parish church and also the 17th-century Villa

Antinori. In 2000, he expanded this to include

an amphitheatre to host outdoor cultural events

along with a restored academy building where

young people can study art, English and philosophy.

A company with ethics you can get behind – and

gorgeous cashmere to boot. brunellocucinelli.com

spoon feeding ↓The Silver Spoon – first published in 1950 and the most successful Italian cookbook of all time – is now being relaunched with over 2,000 revised and updated recipes from throughout the country, including new dishes from the likes of City favourites Giorgio Locatelli and Ruth Rogers. If you’re keen to know your bavette from your bucatini, your ciabatta from your focaccia, accept no (food) substitute. £29.95; phaidon.co.uk

East meets west

One of the latest clutch of Paris hotel openings and revamps, the Shangri-La fuses aristocratic history with Asian art and service and intoxicating Parisian views. The Hong Kong group’s first European foray has unleashed Pierre-Yves Rochon, interiors guru for the new Savoy, and Richard Martinet, the architect behind the George V’s refurbishment, on the elegant period building, once the gaff of Roland Bonaparte, Napoleon’s grandnephew. With a 16th arrondissement location, the restoration is surrounded by private gardens and sports glorious Belle Époque interiors alongside Asian artwork, plus the latest whiz-bang technology. Doubles from €650; shangri-la.com

Page 17: Brummell Magazine September 2011
Page 18: Brummell Magazine September 2011

beAumonde | women's tAiloring18

There is a reason why Katherine Hooker is one

of the only tailors in London who specialises

in dressing women. When she made her first

‘Braid’ coat, now a popular staple of her brand,

she took it to a Savile Row tailor to help her

with the final adjustments.

‘He admired the coat’s cut, then suggested

I move a front seam left and down by a quarter

of an inch,’ says Hooker. ‘It perfected the coat,

so I rang to thank him and asked why he didn’t

make women’s clothes. He laughed, “One

reason and one reason only: boobs!”’

It is to Hooker’s advantage that tailors shy

away from the various shapes that women

come in. ‘There are only about three male body

types and mostly we’re dealing with bellies,

which just means altering the circumference,’

says Hooker. ‘But look at women! They come in

a hundred different forms, so you have to worry

about balance as well as width and height.

What’s more, women are very sensitive about

their bodies and most want clothes that make

them look 10 pounds thinner.’

The secret to Hooker's cut is that her

clothes are narrow-shouldered and fitted under

the armpits, providing a long, lean and

flattering silhouette. Those of us who own

a Katherine Hooker jacket are used to spotting

each other in the street and smiling

conspiratorially, or being stopped constantly

and asked where our coats come from.

Eight years on, her sunny, unassuming

shop stands on a quiet street off Lots Road in

Fulham. It is to here that customers flock to

have their unique coat or jacket made, and

to choose material, linings, trims and buttons

from an array of British tweed, cashmere,

wool, linen and silk. ‘I source everything in

Britain,’ says Hooker. ‘That way, I have total

control over quality and a reliable connection

with my suppliers.’

This month, Hooker is launching an online

shop, katherinehookernow.com, selling seven

styles in sizes 8 to 14 at a lower price, along

with accessories, including bags, snoods,

scarves, belts and mittens. Her clothes are

already being sought after by exclusive

boutiques in Manhattan, Cincinnati, Miami and

Washington, following a series of sell-out

‘trunk shows’ in the US, at which she presented

her designs direct to buyers. Hooker is

sanguine about her success, appreciating that

though many women may want to wear beautiful

bespoke clothes, not all can afford them. ‘What

I’m offering is virtually an haute couture coat

but at an affordable price,’ she says.

Hooker is American, although she has no

trace of an accent. She understands intuitively

that busy, working women on both sides of the

Atlantic want to look classic, elegant and

smart, but that they also want to stand out

confidently as possessing their own style. Her

clothes are enabling women from Wall Street

to Kensington Palace to do just that.

Katherine Hooker bespoke jackets are priced

from £470 to £970 and coats from £520 to

£1,175; katherinehooker.com

Katherine Hooker has an instinct for tailoring

that flatters the female form, and her new online

store means bespoke need not be off limitswords Charlotte Metcalf Photography Joakim Blockström

Fit forpurpose

Page 19: Brummell Magazine September 2011

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Page 20: Brummell Magazine September 2011
Page 21: Brummell Magazine September 2011

You could just mentally add eight hours

when you land in Hong Kong, but it is

so much more stylish to consult a

beautiful watch with a choice of times

Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter

Girard-Perregaux WW.TC Chronograph As if making a watch capable of simultaneously displaying 24 different time zones isn't tricky enough, Girard- Perregaux has added chronograph and date functions to this version of its covetable WW.TC (‘worldwide time co-ordinated’) watch. The central 24-hours ring is divided into light and dark halves to indicate day or night, while the left-hand crown is used for toggling between time zones. £9,950; girard-perregaux.com

Linde Werdelin Two Timer The USP of Linde Werdelin watches is that they can all be married up to a clip-on sports computer, designed either for diving (the ‘Reef’) or land-based sports (the ‘Rock’). Further versatility comes with the Two Timer watch, which features an extra GMT hand providing a second time-zone reading. A Three Timer version, giving a reading in three different zones simultaneously, is also available. €3,709; lindewerdelin.com

WaTChes | beaumonde 21

Zonerangers

Page 22: Brummell Magazine September 2011

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time If you’re seeking the ultimate in world-time wristwatches, this is currently it: while most can simultaneously show the time in 24 cities, the Patrimony Traditionnelle does so in a remarkable 37, including some that are off-set by 30 or 15 minutes. The watch includes many ingenious features, such as a central sapphire dial, half clear for day and half tinted for night in different locations. £31,100; vacheron-constantin.com

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic This beautifully designed time-zone watch features a power-reserve indicator and date, with the second time zone being displayed on a small sub dial at the six o’clock position. All of the world’s important cities are marked on the disc below, so it’s just a matter of aligning the relevant one with the arrowhead when you arrive at your destination in order to set local time. Home time, meanwhile, continues to be read from the main dial. £8,050; jaeger-lecoultre.com

Zenith Captain Dual Time Time-zone watches don’t come much more simple or elegant than Zenith’s latest take on its Captain Dual Time, from its recently introduced range of retro-look ‘legacy’ watches. The small dial at the nine o’olock position counts the seconds, while the blued steel hand with arrow tip indicates the time at destination. Quick and easy adjustment is carried out using the push piece at the 10 o’clock position on the 40mm case. £8,500; zenith-watches.com

beauMonDe | WaTChes22

Page 23: Brummell Magazine September 2011
Page 24: Brummell Magazine September 2011

beAumonde | After the city24

Described by one fashion editor as ‘the kind of

shoes that make women stop strangers in the

street’, Bionda Castana shoes have won the

approval of fashion bible Italian Vogue and are

worn by some of the world’s most glamorous

women, including Kate Moss, Keira Knightley

and Rihanna. To their number, add Natalia

Barbieri, who is certainly glamorous and can

usually be seen wearing her favourite pair of

Bionda Castana cheetah ponyskin ankle boots.

Barbieri is also one half of the brand, the

‘castana’, or brunette, to business partner

Jennifer Portman’s ‘bionda’ (blonde). The pair

met 14 years ago on an International Business

with Languages course at London University,

where they bonded over a shared Italian

heritage and an interest in fashion. ‘We had

a culture in common, we went on similar

holidays as children,’ says Barbieri, ‘and

we both loved fashion. In particular, shoes.’

On graduation, Barbieri worked in

foreign-exchange trading for Deutsche Bank

as a sales assistant. She was, she says, ‘just

following what I was told I should be doing. They

Trading Deutsche Bank for

shoe design, Natalia Barbieri

put her business skills to use

when she decided to turn heel

Words James Medd

Photography Joakim Blockström

Step

change

wanted someone who spoke Italian and Spanish

and so I went for it.’ She learned a lot – ‘how

to network, how to deal with stressful situations’

– but wasn’t fulfilled. Meanwhile, Portman was

working in marketing and felt exactly the same:

‘Jennifer and I were constantly going on about

working with accessories and creating our

own brand. It niggled us, so after three years we

said, “If we don’t do what we want to do with

our lives now, we never will.”’

That was in 2004. After two years running

an online business importing selected Italian

shoes, they finally decided to take the plunge

into designing their own, launching the company

in September 2007. The crucial part was

finding the factory that could make, by hand,

their designs to the quality they were looking

for. ‘Without good production, you’re nothing,’

she says. ‘We struck gold with a family-run

factory – the dad is 85 years old and he still

cuts the patterns. It’s just outside Milan, where

all of the great designers make their shoes.

You can’t beat the craftsmanship there.’

Portman now spends half the year in Italy,

overseeing production, while Barbieri remains

in London looking after the marketing, but they

both design. Their signature look – glamorous,

handmade statement shoes with a stiletto heel

and metallic detailing – has expanded now they’ve

made their mark, but the vision remains the

same: ‘When we sit down together and work

through all the designs each of us have come up

with over the year, we find about 50 per cent of it

is exactly the same as the other’s. I’ll say, “I really

want to do a nice big block heel,” and Jennifer

will whip out a design with a fat block heel.’

Although they’re always moving forward, they

don’t expect their designs to be discarded at the

end of the season. ‘Our shoes are investment

pieces,’ says Barbieri. ‘You could wear a style

from 2008 and it would still look great. Fashion’s

fun, that’s the point of it, but we do regard our

shoes as works of art. I know people who don’t

wear heels but buy them just to put on display.’

From here, the plan is to open their

own shop in London within 18 months, and then

progress steadily, with the ultimate ambition

of reaching the status of an international luxury

brand. They’d also like to branch into bags

and maybe even jewellery. Men’s shoes

is another area under consideration, although

that might seem a little dull after the glamour

of their women’s designs. ‘Oh no,’ says Barbieri

confidently. ‘We’d make it fun.’

Prices start at £385; biondacastana.com

stAnding tAllWith Kate, Keira and Rihanna wearing their heels, Natalia Barbieri and partner Jennifer Portman plainly have a talent for taste

Page 25: Brummell Magazine September 2011
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FN100 womeN | BRUmmeLL 27

In the wake of a global financial crisis, in which

the sector was criticised for macho risk-taking,

there have been increasing calls for greater

representation of women at the highest levels of

decision-making. Banks have a long way to go –

Financial News found that, of the 220 bankers on

executive committees at 20 of the biggest investment

banks, only 17 are women. But the industry has

taken note and momentum is building to identify

and support female talent to follow in the footsteps

of those listed on the fifth annual FN100 list of

the most influential women in European financial

markets. From a list of 250 nominees, assessed

for their influence, leadership of their company

and market sector, and career performance,

a final 100 were selected, eight of whom we profile

here. To read profiles of all the FN100 Influential

Women, visit efinancialnews.com/fn100

Photography Philip Sinden

words Yasmine Chinwala

Page 28: Brummell Magazine September 2011

Haurie openly admits that she was ‘a lousy

employee’ so she plotted a course to be her own

boss. Ten years ago, she started running the

advisory business at newly founded alternative

investment specialist Dexion, and was promoted

to lead the group in 2006. Since inception,

Dexion has raised nearly $1 trillion in assets,

and in the past year Haurie has worked on deals

for some of Europe’s biggest hedge funds,

including GSO Capital Partners, Brevan

Howard and BlueCrest Capital Management.

She is now intent on broadening Dexion’s

activities, and by the end of this year hopes to

have a boutique investment banking capability in

place. Her longer term plans are to grow

Dexion’s distribution platform beyond hedge

funds into private equity, infrastructure and

renewables. She says the best piece of advice

she has been given is: ‘Don’t be afraid of making

mistakes and relish change.’

Ana Haurie ↑Group managing director,

Dexion Capital

Kay Swinburne, meP ↓Coordinator of the Economic

and Monetary Affairs Committee

The forthcoming review of the markets in

financial instruments directive is set to have the

biggest impact on financial markets since Big Bang

in 1986. Swinburne’s influence over Mifid II

reaches far and wide. Her report on the subject,

drawing on market operators, participants

and regulators, has shaped the European

Commission’s thinking and she will continue

to feed into the legislative process.

Born and raised in Aberystwyth, Wales,

Swinburne has a PhD in medical research and

worked in corporate finance. When she became

an MEP in June 2009, it was the first time

since 1918 the Conservatives had won the

largest share of the vote in Wales, which

Swinburne says is a highlight of her career.

In her constituency, she ‘spends a lot of time

in wellies’, and spent the summer talking to farmers

about reforms to the Common Agricultural Policy

and protecting the local bee population.

Page 29: Brummell Magazine September 2011

Fn100 Women | BRUmmeLL 29

RBS is three years into its five-year turnaround

plan, but for Rose it has been business as

usual. She leads a team of 300 staff and is

responsible for coverage of more than 600

corporate clients as well as financial sponsors

and infrastructure finance, globally. She is

among the bank’s top executives and a member

of RBS’s global banking management

committee, Emea executive committee and

board-level credit approver authority.

Coming from a military family, Rose learnt

a lot from moving every year. She is driving the

bank’s diversity initiative and, as a mother of

two, says it’s important not to ‘sweat the small

stuff’, nor to feel guilty about your kids while you

are working and vice versa. She is taking

inspiration from Letters from Leaders: Personal

Advice for Tomorrow's Leaders from the

World's Most Influential People, compiled by

Henry O Dormann.

Alison Rose ↑Head of Emea corporate

coverage and client

management, global banking

and markets, RBS

Page 30: Brummell Magazine September 2011

BRUMMELL | FN100 woMEN30

Curtis joined HSBC three years ago with

a remit to address the voice of its research.

Drawing on her experience as European

managing editor of Bloomberg, she has pushed

to raise the profile of HSBC’s research both

within the bank and to its clients by producing

analysis quickly and using multimedia to

increase accessibility. When HSBC’s chief

executive Stuart Gulliver presented the bank’s

strategic review in May, it was informed by her

team’s research, particularly reports focused

on changing dynamics in emerging markets.

One of a handful of top female executives

who support boardroom quotas, this year Curtis

became a co-sponsor of HSBC’s diversity

programme. She previously worked in senior

roles at Deutsche Bank and Nomura and is an

economic commentator on television. She was

awarded an OBE for services to business

economics in 2008.

Bronwyn CurtisChairman of global research, HSBC

Page 31: Brummell Magazine September 2011

33 BRUTON STREET, LONDON W1J 6HH TEL: +44 (0) 20 7499 4411

[email protected] WWW.HOLLANDANDHOLLAND.COM

Page 32: Brummell Magazine September 2011

At the age of two, Chan left communist China on

a fishing boat with her grandmother in search of

a better life in Hong Kong. After graduating, she

went straight into the world of finance, first at

JP Morgan and then at Citigroup. She joined

EuroCCP in 2007, growing it from a start-up to

an established clearing house with a team of 30.

EuroCCP is well positioned to benefit from

important new interoperability rules, for which

Chan has been actively lobbying for several

years. By allowing market participants to choose

their preferred clearer when trading on an

exchange, the rules will encourage competition

and reduce clearing costs. EuroCCP has already

been selected as the preferred clearer by several

banks and trading venues, and is expected to pick

up more custom.

In her spare time, Chan enjoys cooking,

turning her hand to ‘new and delicious things

that have a high ratio of pleasure to effort’.

Diana Chan ↑Chief executive, EuroCCP

Lisa Rabbe ↓Head of public policy for

Europe, the Middle East and

Africa, Credit Suisse

While many girls dream of being a ballerina, Rabbe,

whose parents were both dancers, decided at

the age of 12 that the ballet was not for her. Instead

she is proud to have built a career in public policy

without working for the government. She started

the public policy group at Goldman Sachs 18 years

ago, just as EU banking regulation came into

existence, and joined Credit Suisse last year.

Rabbe describes EU rulemaking as ‘three-

dimensional chess’, with conflicting nationalities,

political parties and perspectives. Her role involves

advocacy on behalf of the bank as well as a pivotal

role advising senior management on the bank’s

strategic response to rapidly changing regulation.

At the top of her agenda is the review of

Mifid and initiatives to end ‘too big to fail’. In her

spare time, Rabbe enjoys Russian literature and,

of course, the ballet.

Page 33: Brummell Magazine September 2011

Fn100 Women | BRUmmeLL 31

Dörte Höppner ↑Secretary General,

European Private Equity and

Venture Capital Association

Höppner is the new kid on the block in the EU. She

took over at EVCA, the private equity industry’s

trade body, this year, having led Germany’s buyout

association BVK since 2007. Armed with a

guidebook and The History of Belgium, she has

been shuttling back and forth from Berlin, where

her family live, to Brussels, her weekday home,

and getting stuck into EU politics.

Her priority is ensuring the right regulatory

framework for the buyout industry and

hammering out the technical details of the

alternative investment fund managers directive.

She is a seasoned lobbyist – last year she was

involved in an effort to fight moves in Germany

to prevent foreigners buying more than a

quarter of local companies, and has been a

vocal critic of Germany’s tax regime.

Höppner previously worked in public

relations for the German Institute for Economic

Research, and was also a journalist.

Fn100 Women | BRUmmeLL 33

Page 34: Brummell Magazine September 2011

BRUMMELL | fn100 WoMEn34

Jeff Blumberg, 35Chief executive,

Egerton Capital

Blumberg says the greatest

achievement of his career so far

is joining Goldman Sachs as an

analyst in 2000 and leaving 10 years

later as a managing director – one

of four MDs responsible for running

Goldman’s $20bn fund of hedge

funds business. He was also co-chief

operating officer of the bank’s

hedge fund strategies group and

a member of its global manager

strategies investment committee.

Last summer he joined European

equities specialist Egerton, where

founder John Armitage’s flagship

fund has returned 16 per cent

annually since inception in 1994.

Although Blumberg doesn’t manage

money himself, under his leadership

assets under management have

grown from $3.9bn when he joined

last June to $5.3bn.

Polina KurdyavkoSenior portfolio manager,

BlueBay Asset Management

Of Armenian descent, Kurdyavko grew up in

Moscow, but she is a far cry from the Russian

princesses strutting around Chelsea. With no

connections to help her get a foot in the

corporate door, she was inspired to work hard,

learn and persevere by her ‘driven and optimistic’

mother. She began teaching English to fund her

education at the age of 14, then went to the US

as a dishwasher to perfect her English and

worked as a travel agent in Paris to learn French.

Kurdyavko got her break in fund management

at Alliance Capital, where she worked full time

while she continued studying for a Master’s

degree. She moved to London in 2001 and

joined BlueBay in 2005 as a credit analyst. In

2008 she launched the firm’s emerging market

corporate bond fund with just $20m. It is now

one of the largest funds in the sector at $5bn.

To unwind, Kurdyavko enjoys reading

poetry, as she finds it ‘soothing and beautiful’.

PhotogRaPhER’s assistant

James McNaught

haiR & MaKE-UP Caroline Sims at

DWM Management,

assisted by Lucy Flower

Page 35: Brummell Magazine September 2011

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Page 36: Brummell Magazine September 2011
Page 37: Brummell Magazine September 2011

I’m haggling with a huaquero (tomb robber to you) in a dark and frankly disturbing Peruvian market surrounded by iguana carcasses, dead Amazonian monkeys and sprigs of shamanic herbs. Ruben wants $50 for the rusting ceremonial dagger stolen from an ancient burial site. ‘I’ll take 40,’ he says, reaching under the counter for a ceramic vessel with a face staring proudly from its side. ‘And I’ve got this. They’re both from the Moche graves at Batán Grande.’

I’m easy prey. Appalled yet fascinated, I'm also clueless about genuine artefacts from the Moche civilization, which thrived in Peru 1,000 years before the Incas. But my companion, the renowned archaeologist Guillermo Cock, is unimpressed. He taps the pot, notes the

resonance and nods. ‘Original,’ he confirms. ‘Fine clay sand fired at high temperature. These men aren’t professionals. And even if you got the price down, you’d be arrested at the airport.’

Arrested for smuggling hot cultural contraband? It’s wrong. Horribly wrong. But also, I have to admit, slightly thrilling. Problem is, I’m alone with a khaki-clad archaeologist and a villain straight out of Hollywood central casting. I make my excuses and leave, passing huge blue butterflies poached from the rainforest, dark liquid sexual tonics and lurid religious amulets, finally emerging into the sunshine of Chiclayo, 500 miles up the coast from Lima.

Hundreds of miles inland from the capital, you can enjoy a less edgy – although much more

precipitous – South American adventure. Tourists – 2,800 of them a day – are swarming around the iconic ruins of Machu Picchu. Some have arrived on foot, others on horseback, but most came on trains, switching to a bus for the final climb along hair-raising switchbacks. It’s dramatic, of course, and perhaps the most multidimensional tourist attraction on earth. But as Peru celebrates the centenary of the Inca citadel’s rediscovery, it’s a bigger draw than ever, attracting huge numbers of Western visitors to Peru. Ruben and his like inhabit a vastly different, near-undiscovered world.

It’s obvious why huaqueros have prospered around Chiclayo. Rather than the elegant yet austere Incas, the northern coastal desert was

TiTle here

CIn henisit alm er ssdi eugait volum zriure facilla

feuis niat utpat pratuae dolore te te consed tat at

autatio el in ut nonseel

Travel | BrUMMell 37

As the crowds celebrate the centenary of the discovery of the Incan city Machu Picchu,

a trip to Peru’s deserted north yields treasures from an older, more brutal civilisationWords Ian Belcher

DARKEST PERU

Page 38: Brummell Magazine September 2011

Ala

my

home to the flamboyantly artistic Moche from 200 to 850AD. ‘Their high lords used jewellery and possessions to enhance their powerful image,’ explains Guillermo. ‘An Inca governor wore a few hundred grams of gold and silver; a Moche several kilograms.’

That difference has meant rich pickings for commercial looters supplying overseas collectors, as well as for locals, who regard grave robbing as a traditional Easter holiday pastime. But many treasures have survived the onslaught, including the astonishing haul discovered in the graves of a fourth-century warrior and his ancestor buried underneath him, collectively known as the Lords of Sipán.

These are now displayed in a wonderful neo-pyramid in nearby Lambayeque. The collection contains gold necklaces linking giant peanuts, intricate human faces and feline heads, and sit alongside gold earrings and belt buckles decorated with the Decapitator – a bug-eyed Moche deity holding a knife and severed head. But the highlight is a glorious gold sceptre, suspended and spotlit on a black background.

‘The older Lord of Sipán had more possessions on him,’ Guillermo explains. ‘So much so that he looked like a loaf of bread at first. It took six months to uncover the body. The tombs are one of the most spectacular finds in world archaeology, only comparable with Tutankhamun or Troy.’

Having also witnessed the treasures of Egypt’s boy pharaoh, I can tell you that’s not hyperbole. Yet compared to the Valley of the Kings, the Huaca Rajada (‘cracked pyramid’ )where the bodies were actually excavated, is virtually deserted. Apart from the archaeologists toiling away on the latest of the site’s 16 tombs, my only company is a vulture wheeling overhead and a blood-red setting sun. When it comes to ambience, less is definitely more.

It’s exactly the same story when I’m driven three hours down the Pan-American Highway, passing the grey Andean foothills and turn down a remote track towards the coast. The El Brujo’s complex of worn adobe pyramids, where witch

doctors are believed to have performed gory sacrifices, punctuate an other-worldly landscape where desert, Pacific Ocean and sky reach a hazy neutrality that fleetingly casts my mind back home to a Farrow & Ball catalogue.

One of the pyramids has a section missing, like a freshly-cut cake – the legacy of treasure-hunting Spanish conquistadors – but, as with the Lords of Sipán, they missed the ultimate treasure: Señora de Cao, a warrior princess and Peru’s very own Joan of Arc. The pyramid where the princess was unearthed in 2005 alongside magnificent friezes now sits under an enormous sloping roof of curved canvas, as if Zaha Hadid had designed a ski jump for sand surfers.

Now housed in the on-site Cao museum, the mummified body of the Señora de Cao lies in a dimly lit, temperature-controlled tomb, an ethereal form reflected in a mirror for viewers. On the day I visit, the princess and her eye-popping trove of weaponry and gold and silver ornaments receive just two other visitors.

I could have picked at least three other near-deserted sites to visit, including Cerro Chepen’s as-yet unexcavated, mountain-top fortress. Instead I opt for a bloodstained climax at Huaca de la Luna, a vertiginous temple

constructed from five million building blocks in the Moche Valley, near Trujillo. On its high altar, priests once sacrificed humans to halt the flooding caused by El Niño. The sacrificed skeletons were caked in thick layers of sediment, allowing one to picture the scene of priests cutting the throats of victims and casting them down into the mud at the foot of the temple.

The archaeologists are still hard at work here, brushing away at the 2,500m of exquisite paintings that decorate Huaca de la Luna’s seven-tiered façade. ‘They are perhaps the greatest murals of any ancient non-Western civilisation,’ Guillermo claims. ‘They’re up there with the Sistine Chapel’s paintings.’

The Sistine Chapel? Perhaps. But without the crowds to spoil the magic. Incredulous that these wildly evocative sites can attract such little attention, I head down to the nearby Pacific beaches. It’s time to wash the desert dust from my hands, and the Moche blood from my mind. Abercrombie & Kent (abercrombiekent.co.uk; 0845 618 2121) offers a 10-night trip that includes the north with Guillermo Cock, Machu Picchu with archaeologist Alfredo Mormontoy, Cusco and Lake Titicaca, along with flights, transfers, B&B accommodation and guiding from £4,950pp

lost KINGDoM

The flamboyant Moche wore elaborate treasures like this figurative nose ornament, right, discovered at the Lords of Sipán tomb at Huaca Rajada (pictured, previous page)

Brightly-painted friezes, left, adorned the Moche temple site Huaca de la Luna, below, near Trujillo

BRUMMEll | tRavEl38

Page 39: Brummell Magazine September 2011

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to be invited to a traditional Geisha tea ceremony was a real privilege.

A cultural infusion indeed.

Page 40: Brummell Magazine September 2011

James Purdey & sons 020 7499 1801; purdey.com

Bespoke side-by-side from £72,600

Bespoke over-and-under from £85,200

Holland and Holland020 7499 4411; hollandandholland.com

The ‘royal’ side-by-side from £60,000

standard ‘royal’ over-and-under from £70,000

Brummell | sHooTing40

Page 41: Brummell Magazine September 2011

in the lineof fire

century. Clay discs and glass balls were catapulted into the air for the guns of the late Victorian and Edwardian era to brush up on their shooting skills. Boss & Co patented a new gun, the over-and-under, in 1909, and it soon proved to have infinitely more advantages on its faux target than the traditional side-by-side. In the meantime, shooting schools had opened and as the sport of clay-shooting developed over the decades, the o/u gun took supremacy in the sport over its rival. Looking

There is little doubt that if you saw someone unsheathing an over-under shotgun on Downton Abbey, many viewers would scream ‘disgrace!’ or ‘parvenu’ at best. But these days, surely, our egalitarian shooting field focuses on prestige of a nobler variety – efficiency – and the o/u is arguably a better bet. Dead-eyed dick no doubt needs top tools but will you stand out in a field for your shooting or your gun?

The debate kicked off with the advent of clay pigeon shooting at the turn of the 20th

down one barrel instead of two, easier handling and high scores had benefits on real quarry, too.

The West London Shooting School (020 8845 1377; shootingschool.co.uk), the oldest independent institution of its kind in the country, was established in 1901 by the Richmond-Watson family. Today, the director, Roddy Richmond-Watson, says, ‘The over-and-under is a good model for novices because of its single sighting plane – and it absorbs the recoil better than a side-by-side. Its

A side-by-side or an over-under: when choosing your shotgun for

game shoots do you follow tradition or break the mould?

Words Jane Pruden

Page 42: Brummell Magazine September 2011

BRUMMELL | shooting42

popularity grew with the prominence of competitive clay pigeon shooting in the Seventies and has continued to do so. Many clients starting with an o/u will continue with it on game shoots.’ The school’s gun shop sells both, with o/u’s tipping the balance for choice. Prices for a new Beretta or Browning start from an affordable £1,350, and the respected Beretta Silver Pigeon is £1,695 for the new Game Scene gun.

British gunmakers are also producing some relatively cheaper models courtesy of state-of-the-art technology. Longthorne Guns in Lancashire (01772 811215; longthorneguns.com) has built The Hesketh, an entirely English-made, 12-bore sidelock o/u, available as a game gun or sporter for under £13,000. For slightly less, at £12,000, William Evans (020 7493 0415; williamevans.com) sells the well-reviewed St James. It is made by Guerini gunmakers in Italy but based on a traditional side-by-side finish, with the engraving copied from a gun that William Evans made for Prince Arthur, Duke of Connaught, in 1910. The ‘St James’ comes in a 12-, 20- or 28-bore with 28in or 30in barrels, and also features multi-choke barrels – an added benefit. The fixed choke on a side- by-side is great for lowland birds but many new o/u’s with multi-chokes can aspire to much higher targets as well.

By contrast, the exclusive gunmaker Boss & Co (020 7493 1127; bossguns.co.uk), established in 1812, still makes an o/u based on its original design. The company has always claimed to build the best guns – but the best comes at a price. King George VI was once asked if he had considered a Boss and he retorted, ‘A Boss gun, a Boss gun, bloody beautiful, but too bloody expensive!’ Yet still, argues Roy Lyu, Boss’s gunroom manager, ‘There has always been plenty of demand and not least for the Boss o/u. It is easier to use than the side-by-side and its popularity is growing.’

With only a handful produced a year, and a two-and-a-half-year waiting list, a Boss gun is indeed a prized possession and a good investment. A popular bespoke choice for high partridges and pheasants is the 29in barrelled model with a tighter choke, commanding a price tag of over £84,500. A side-by-side, handcrafted to the same high standards, will cost over £65,000. The difference in price reflects the time it takes to make the gun. The mechanics and configuration of an o/u requires about 1,200 hours as opposed to 850 to 900 hours for a side-by-side.

There is no shortage of o/u clients at Holland and Holland either. In general, says

Patrick Murphy, the gunroom manager, ‘Most shooting schools start people off with over- and-unders because they are an easier gun and more economical to buy and maintain.’ Interestingly, the bulk of the company’s o/u gun sales are to the US, where it is far more acceptable for game shooting than in the UK. ‘Sales in the last 10 years works out at about 1.5 to 1 in favour of the over-unders,’ adds Murphy, although the last couple of years has seen a slight increase in side-by-side purchases. ‘Many of our clients have inherited a pair of guns but first-time buyers purchasing an over-under is not uncommon. At the end of the day it’s individual choice.’ The base price for the Holland and Holland standard ‘Royal’ o/u with their traditional scroll engraving is £70,000 for 12-, 16- and 20-bore, and £75,000 for a 28 bore and cal .410.

To the outsider, an o/u has as many, if not more, advantages as the side-by-side, so where’s the rub? Put simply, it appears there are some who honed their skills when they were knee-high to their father’s hip flask and only used a side-by-side; some who stick to their o/u from shooting school, and many who are indifferent, subject to price or preference. So are we likely to see as many o/u’s as side-by-sides in the field?

Mike Barnes, editor of Fieldsports magazine, says, ‘Over-unders have become much more commonplace since the advent of shooting very high pheasants (notably in the West Country, Wales, the Borders and Yorkshire). Their single-sighting plane helps with the more measured shooting required at very long ranges. And, most importantly, their extra weight helps absorb the recoil which results from the "big load" cartridges required for shooting pheasants at extreme ranges.’ It is also possible, he adds, to buy a very good o/u for much less money than a side-by-side. Then again, it also depends on your target. ‘Side-by-side is still the gun for driven grouse shooting,’ he says. ‘Its lesser weight and responsive feel is perfect for fast, low targets.’

The general consensus is that the o/u is undoubtedly easier to shoot in various situations. But, as Paul West from William & Son says, ‘For the price, they are reliable: they are easier to pick up a line with and they do what they say on the tin. But generally, an over-under isn’t a gun that you would oil in your gun room and covet like a British side-by-side shotgun, which has more character. It’s a gun for the enthusiast.’ Some traditions, it seems, are hard to break.

WiLLiAM & son020 7493 8385; williamandson.com

Bespoke over-and-under from £55,000

Bespoke side-by-side from £45,000

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my

Page 43: Brummell Magazine September 2011

57 – 58 South Audley Street london W1K 2ed +44 (0)20 7499 1801 www.purdey.com

Page 44: Brummell Magazine September 2011

BRUMMELL | FEATURE TITLE00

LASTING

IMPRESSIONBe picture perfect this season, dressing for work in

sumptuous fabrics, enhanced by luxe accessories

Photography Rebecca Pierce styling Tamara Fulton

BRUMMELL | sTyLE44

Page 45: Brummell Magazine September 2011

nEw MAsTERsOpposite: Blouse, £595; overskirt, £420; and knee-length skirt, £540, all Miu Miu. Shoes, £475, Rupert sanderson. 'Agatha' bag, £700, smythson. Ebony, pearl and yellow-gold earrings, £4,860, Belmacz

This page: Jacket, £395, Daks. Dress, £340, Paul smith Black Label. Tights, £8.25, Pamela Mann at mytights.com. Shoes, £175, Russell & Bromley. Bag, £700, smythson. Earrings, as before. Onyx and gold pendant, £2,600, Belmacz

Page 46: Brummell Magazine September 2011
Page 47: Brummell Magazine September 2011

private view

Opposite: Dress, £345, Daks. Earrings, as before

This page: Blouse, £550, Chloé at Harrods. Skirt, £999, Lanvin at Harrods. Earrings, as before. Necklace, £22,000, and bracelet, £18,675, both Chanel Fine Jewellery

Page 48: Brummell Magazine September 2011

BRUMMELL | FEATURE TITLE00

MUsE ovERAbove: Cape, £600, sportmax at selfridges. Top (just seen), model's own. Skirt (just seen), £540, Miu Miu. Scarf, £165, Paul smith. Gloves, £215, Jane Carr. Umbrella, £135, Burberry. Earrings, as before

Right: Jacket, £885; chiffon top, £495; and skirt, £445, all Bottega veneta. Tights, £8.25, Pamela Mann at mytights.com. Earrings, as before. White agate, jet and yellow-gold necklace, £980, Belmacz

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STOCKISTS DETAILS ON PAGE 50

Page 49: Brummell Magazine September 2011

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Pocket Watch VINTAGE PW1 49 mm

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Page 50: Brummell Magazine September 2011

BRUMMELL | BY GEORGE50

Launching this month, the

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It was back in 2008 that I first saw the original

Land Rover LRX concept in an underground car

park beneath one of Geneva’s swankier hotels.

Designer Gerry McGovern had just penned it

and it was like no Land Rover we had ever seen,

with a coupé roof, pimp-tastic 20-inch wheels

and a luxurious leather-clad cabin with front

seats that ‘floated’ on individual plinths.

Three years later and the concept has

become a reality, only it is now called the Range

Rover Evoque. Although the first cars are not due

to hit showrooms until this month (it will be sold

in 160 countries), 18,000 have already been

ordered and there seems little doubt that the

Evoque will be the crossover in which to be seen.

Those floating seats may have gone, but

surprisingly little else has changed between the

unveiling of the original LRX mock-up and the

arrival of the production Evoque, the most

significant difference being the addition of a more

practical, five-door body style to complement

the meaner-looking coupé. There’s no doubting

that most Evoques will remain captive in the urban

jungle, but that doesn’t mean the off-road ability

has been compromised. Thanks to decent ground

clearance, Range Rover’s clever Terrain

Response system, hill-descent control and plenty

of torque from the diesel engine options, the

smallest Range Rover seems capable of following

its full-sized stablemates just about anywhere.

Subjected to a long and fairly challenging

track in rugged Snowdonia, the Evoque I drove

took everything in its stride and its relatively small

size and user-friendliness made it more adept on

some of the tricky bits than the properly rugged

Defender – the difference is that you might think

twice about chucking a pile of rocks into the back

before heading off for a day’s dry stone walling.

Realistically, however, not many Evoques

will be used as forestry or farm vehicles – this

car is more about style and bringing scaled-down

Range Rover luxury to town than getting down and

dirty in the countryside. In fact, it’s predicted

that up to 50 per cent of buyers will be women.

You can choose from 12 different exterior

colours, three contrasting roof colours, eight

alternative alloy wheel designs and 16 tailored

‘designer’ interiors. Combine these with the three

overall themes: minimalist ‘Pure’, upmarket

‘Prestige’ and sporty ‘Dynamic’ – and it’s likely

you'll be able to create a bespoke Evoque with a

look that’s yours and yours alone. And if you can’t

be bothered to do it yourself, you’ll be pleased

to hear that Victoria Beckham is on board as

Range Rover’s ‘creative design executive’ with

the promise of a ‘Posh’ interior due shortly.

Turning to more practical matters, the Evoque

can be had with either 150- or 90-horsepower

turbo diesel engines or a 240-horsepower,

turbocharged petrol unit. You can also opt for

sportier suspension and a ‘panoramic’ glass

roof – a bargain at just £450, and really worth

having, especially on the chop-top coupé which

doesn’t let that much light in through its narrow

rear passenger windows.

Other handy extras are ‘Park Assist’ (it

judges whether or not a gap is big enough and

takes control of the steering – you just press the

pedals), a ‘surround’ camera set-up, ambient

interior lighting and a truly kicking Meridian audio

system to complement the excellent touch-screen

satnav and communications panel, which includes

a digital and satellite TV and a DVD player.

There seems little doubt that all the hype

over this car has been justified – it really is

good, and the coupé version is a breath of fresh

air in a sector where design has begun to

become rather too predictable.

The Evoque costs from £27,995 to £44,320,

depending on specification; helloevoque.com

Words Simon de Burton

Page 51: Brummell Magazine September 2011
Page 52: Brummell Magazine September 2011