BLACK

MAGAZINE WITH COOL STUFF

Volu

me

No.

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W H A T S I NTHIS ISSUE

Bleach Black Magazine Volume No. 1

1 Editorial Note2 On NYC

3 On Assorted Stuff4 On Patti Smith

6 On Home8 Peter Lindbergh

9 Dan Mountford10 On Beauty - Olivia Kim

12 On Fashion - Denin Style

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BLEACH BLACK is a bi-annual fashion and art magazine founded in Sydney, Australia. Since the launch in November 2011 it has established itself as the leading,norwegian independent magazine covering art, fashion, and culture.

The basic premise behind BLEACH BLACK is that, in a time where websites and blogs are deliveringnews minute by minute, the role of the printed medias must be re-evalueted. BLEACH BLACK offersa different take on contemporary fashion and culture by eschewing the product and newsorientated journalism that has dominated mainstream magazines for the last couple of decades.

Instead of focusing on the passing trends of popular culture, BLEACH BLACK wants to present thefaces, names and thoughts behind these trends. Artists, designers, writers and musicians aregiven space to talk about their work and vision, and instead of merely reporting from exhibitionsand happenings, BLEACH BLACK aims to be the event in itself by presenting

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ON ASSORTED STUFF

With his series “The World Inside of Us”, the artist Dan Mountford from Brighton shows us the extent of his talent around the idea of a double exposure. Playing on the faces and forms that emerge, the series of images to be discovered later in the article. More on page 6.

Seriously just wander around this place is saturated with shops, bars & restaurants, here are a few of our favorites:

Max Fish.....no need to say any more im sure you have heard about this joint the official skater hang out.

W-georgia’s bbq: Yummy bbq - www.georgiaseastsidebbq.com

Ten Balls - Awesome wine bar - www.thetenbells.com

Bario Chino - Killer jalapeno margarita - www.barriochinonyc.com/

Freemans alley restaurant: We love little secret tucked away placeslike this!! yup this place is in a secret alley!!! www.freemansrestaurant.com/

Make sure to stop into these shops :

Beacons Closet for some second hand clothing: www.beaconscloset.com/

Brooklyn Flea: www.artistsandfleas.com/

Future Perfect: www.thefutureperfect.com/

Shoe Market NYC: www.shop.shoemarketnyc.com/

Ohh and we are obsessed with the coffee at El Beit on bedford: www.yelp.com/biz/el-beit-brooklyn

There are endless boutiques along bedford ave so just wander you cant go wrong!!

lower east side//

N E W Y O R K C I T Y

williamsburg//

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B E GI NN I

NG

Editor-in-chief Grace Mirabella - shot by jakandjill.com

Diptyque Philosykos Perfume - $175Crystle Rinng - $320APC Denim tote - $229

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PATTI SMITH

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Patti Smith sounded both young and old on her 1975 debut, Horses: young because only a young punk can slink into the spotlight and sell an opening line like, “Jesus died for somebody’s sins, but not mine”; old, because she was dead serious and sophisticated, an ur-punk but also a poetess and a singer who knew to stop this close to overindulgence. Like her hero Jim Morrison she wrote absurd verses more fit for a diary than a rock ‘n’ roll record, but could also follow them with lines that genuinely terrified.

Smith is the fountainhead for the punks, grrrls, rockers, and artists that have worn the shit out of this record in their most raw, needy hours, and who study and mimic everything she does with that voice-- which is all rends, tears, and bite marks, and no clean cuts. So it feels cheap not to put this fully on a pedestal, even if “Land”’s meandering free verse makes a poor bookend for the enraged lust of “Gloria”, and “Elegie” is a turgid closer. The flaws don’t matter: Horses is an album of its time-- not because it’s dated, but because it precariously captures a phase in Smith’s life, and when all the raw elements fall in place, it feels miraculous.

Take “Birdland”. Just like in a jazz ballad, you can practically hear the band breathing in sync, and the slightest misjudgment would screw up the flow of Smith’s surreal-- but straightforwardly powerful-- poem. But Lenny Kaye’s guitar stretches effortlessly from post-funeral ballad to ecstatic, crazy fury, and Smith’s performance is fierce and horribly unbeautiful. “It was as if someone had spread butter on all the fine points of the stars/ ‘Cause when he looked up they started to slip.” Holy God is she a poet, and she hurls those words so accurately you want to scream and give up too.

That was 30 years ago. Today, Smith is unavoidably grown up, stuck in the canon, and well defined, and that’s the artist we

hear on the bonus disc in this package, a live track-by-track recital of Horses from the Meltdown Festival in London, this past June. She took the stage with old friends Tom Verlaine and Lenny Kaye on guitar and Jay Dee Daugherty on drums.

They knocked the roof off-- but they don’t match the original. “Birdland” is fitful and noisy, the segue from “Lands” back to a “Gloria” reprise seems like a cop-out, and Smith’s wild poetess thing has settled into something a little more, hey, settled, like when she complains about how much time we spend on email and Blackberrys. “Elegie” takes far more meaning now that she has a list of loved ones to commemorate, like Robert Mapplethorpe, or her own husband. But play it back to back with the debut, and instead of a transformative force, you hear an old familiar voice cranking about George Bush.

Here’s the thing about growing up: You don’t know when it happens until later, but if you could catch it, it would be an amazingly quick moment-- like the point where you toss a ball in the air and it comes to a complete halt before it starts to fall to the ground. When we talk about youth and rock and roll, we’re looking for that moment, of not being one thing or the other but of straddling both, of making mistakes that are above and beneath us, of a crest of energy as the ball gets ready to stop. We’re talking about Smith changing from the twentysomething poet who decided to add guitar to her readings, and about an artist who can ape the last generation even as she spawns the next one. Or a performance like her old take of “My Generation”, where she and John Cale knock the shit out of the by-then-ancient Who classic and Smith wraps with the wail, “I’m so young, I’m so goddamn young”-- and she’s still, barely, right.

++

Horses 30th Anniversary

Legacy EditionArista; 2005

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THE LITTLE HOUSE IN THE CITY

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Painting floorboards white can solve many a decorating problem, particularly if you’ve bought a home with timber floors you just don’t like. For instance, this light room with a feel of lived-in glamour wouldn’t hit the same note if the flooring was jarrah, which is too red.

A DIY option is to paint the floor with white paint of your choice and then seal it with a water-based polyurethane for protection. For an even tougher finish, use a marinegrade paint such as Northane Gloss from Norglass Paints, a non-yellowing white twopac polyurethane product.

A natural material such as leather can fits with all requirements of bedroom furniture. Armchair, sofa, desk, bed, foot rest, all that furniture can dress in leather for your pleasure. Use your imagination and invite the leather in your area at night to create a unique link and very kind. Sophisticated and in tune with the times, the leather in a room provides a chic atmosphere. Distressed leather patina becomes a trend in mind both classic and modern in your room.

ON HOME

FIG AND CLEMENTINE PORT WINE POPTAIL

MAKES EIGHT 2-AND-1/4-OZ. POPSICLES

2 cups of port wine (or any dry fruity variety will work)

2 lbs clementine tangerines

1 1/2 lb figs

1/4 cup honey

1. Place wine, clementine tangerines, figs and honey in a food processor or blender and process or blend until pureed, about 1-2 minutes. Pour mixture through a medium strainer.

2. Pour strained mixture into popsicle forms and freeze for about 2 hours or until mixture starts to solidify enough to hold a popsicle stick upright. Insert popsicle sticks and finish

freezing popsicles overnight. To release popsicles run hot water on the outside of popsicle molds for a 2-3 seconds.

COLD IS COOL

Steel & Wire Frame Chairs

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In a certain kind of factory, everyone is famous for 15 minutes. But in the case of Peter Lindbergh, the images created in his factory are eternal. In fact, it is the industrial landscape — the steelworks in his hometown of Duisburg, Germany — that has shaped his romantic, humanistic eye for more than 30 years.

Cut to 1992. Linda Evangelista, one of the superest of supermodels, is flying back to the United States via the Concorde to be photographed by Lindbergh for Bazaar, soon after he was lured to the magazine by Liz Tilberis. “They put me in a limousine and I dozed off. I pull up, look around, and burst into tears. I went first-class all the way to this ugly, abandoned, filthy factory in Philadelphia! For Harper’s Bazaar!” She sighs dramatically. “The pictures were gorgeous. But after, I told him, ‘No more factories; you take me to châteaus.’”

His pictures, often rendered in black and white with their industrial guts (cameras, lights, cords) showing, exhibit a deconstructed kind of beauty. “I show elements of the set in my pictures because it’s not real,” Lindbergh explains. “When I see movies, I often love the ‘making of ’ more than the movie itself. It’s not so final.

When you have a woman just standing there, it doesn’t mean much.”

Lindbergh’s success is due to one thing: His pictures mean a lot. He originally studied art in Berlin, beginning his photography career almost by accident. “Someone I knew needed an assistant. But I could have easily been a baker or worked in a flower shop.” In 1973, he started shooting monochromatic advertising campaigns. (“Black and white, you see under the skin, no?”) Today Lindbergh’s imagery is instantly recognizable: from British Vogue to Harper’s Bazaar; in campaigns for Dior, Giorgio Armani, Prada, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, and Lancôme; numerous exhibitions; and five books. And sometimes, when arriving in New York from his home in Paris, he drives past his epic portraits of Kate Moss or Daria Werbowy on billboards for jeweler David Yurman.

After all, Lindbergh loves women. Most famously, his eye is responsible for defining the era of the supermodel. The inception: the January 1990 cover of British Vogue (commissioned by Tilberis, then the editor in chief, and styled by Brana Wolf, both of whom later came to Bazaar), where he

assembled Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, and Tatjana Patitz in downtown New York. “It was a new generation, and that new generation came with a new interpretation of women,” he explains. “It was the first picture of them together as a group.”

That cover, of course, also inspired George Michael’s “Freedom 90” video, directed by David Fincher. “Yah!” says Lindbergh. “I heard George Michael say that it was the most beautiful picture of women he’d ever seen. Funny, I have never met George Michael.” Crawford says, “It was definitely a moment. That photograph plus the video plus Gianni Versace — the stars were all in alignment.” Turlington, famously the most earnest of the bunch, observes, “Those pictures that Peter captured are definitely some of the most incriminating of the supermodel era.” ++

ON PHOTOGRAPHY

// INTERVIEW //

PETER LINDBERGHThe photographer and his supermodel subjects recall some of the

greatest shoots in history.

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D A N

M O U N T F O R D

Brighton University Graphic Design student Dan Mountford has an incredible series of

portraits titled The Worlds Inside of Us. Dan describes this series as “a visual journey

through our minds by calm and tidy means which the reality of everyday life does not show.” He explores the use of double exposure in his photographs, successfully isolating parts of an image in camera with no help from our friend Photoshop. His images are captivating

with their thoughtful execution and composition, and there’s no doubt that we

will be seeing more exciting work from him in the future.

T H E W O R L D I N S I D E U S //

D O U B L E E X P O S U R E

P O R TR A I T

S

helena christensen shot by peter lindbergh

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“I love tattoos—I love the idea that it’s permanent, and I love the idea that it really marks where you are in your life at that time. I think people are scared of that permanence but I feel like, it’s ok, you can always move on, you can cover it, you can take it off if you don’t like it. I remember everything about each one. I got the first one when I was 14. My mom went out to dinner and my sister and I had a party, and as soon as all the people came, I left with a friend who was older and had a car—he was a senior and I was a freshman—and we went to a tattoo parlor in middle-of-nowhere New Jersey and I got a butterfly on my stomach. So then after that, I got a Jenny Holzer phrase along the bottom of my stomach, and then I just started going from there. I have, like, the gross tramp stamp…and then I started getting into this idea that I wanted things that were really pretty—I didn’t care if they matched or not, and I met Scott Campbell who’s one of my really good friends. We would just hang out and play. Another friend of mine, C-Jay, focuses on miniature tattoos—he puts on these gemologist goggles and looks up and his eyes are HUGE, and he uses really tiny needles. I have so many tattoos. They’re everywhere but my legs—my best friend Carol won’t let me do my legs. I also want some on my feet but I’m not allowed…so I think I’m going to sneak them. I always wear socks, even in the summertime. But

I love pedicures—I go all the time with Jen [Brill]; we go once a week together at Spazio. My hands are really chipped right now—but it’s all OPI, and she just laid it on really thick.

I buy all my makeup at the duty-free shops in airports. They have the whole range of everything so it’s like one-stop shopping. The best one is in Hong Kong. First of all, that airport is insane because they have a Prada strore, they have a Gucci store, they have a Miu Miu store, Versace, Bottega…and then their cosmetic department is bigger than, like, the whole floor of Bergdorf. And they have things you can’t find in New York—like that Chanel Jade nail polish, it’s been sold out forever, but they had it there. Best discovery ever. I think the girls are super on trend over there, so when Chanel launches the new corals, they forget about the goth-y greens or the dark reds. My new thing is liquid eyeliner. I’ve always been a smudge girl—eyeliner: smudge it. Lip gloss: smudge. Lip pencil: get it on and smudge. But I recently discovered the Chanel liquid eyeliner and it’s so amazing—it’s like a felt-tip pen so it’s really manageable. And I’m a mascara crazoid—I’ve tried everything, and I always come back to the Chanel ones…Inimitable and Exceptionnel de Chanel. And I’ve always loved fragrance; I’ve always worn perfume. I used to steal my mom’s

11"I LOVE tatoos " i love the idea that it"s permanent,

and i love the idea that it really marks where you are in your life at that time.

ON BEAUTY Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs, in a white jar with flowers around it. She would keep it in her glove compartment, so when she’d pop into a store and I stayed in the car I’d spray it. Now I love masculine scents. I’ve been wearing the same perfume for maybe six years—Comme des Garcons Kyoto. It’s a super woodsy, incense-y smell. I always go back to it; I’m a creature of habit. I also buy things three at time, like a lipstick. One to keep in my purse, one to keep at home, and another because I’ll lose it—I lose them all the time

.I wash my face in the morning—I don’t wash it at night. I’m so lazy with that. Plus I love the way you look when you wake up in the morning and you have a little eyeliner under your eyes, kind of sexy, bed-head seductress. I use Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel which is amazing, then I spritz it with a toner, and finish with Kiehl’s Daily Facial Moisturizer. And I use a sunblock every day—SPF 45 in the winter, 60 in the summer. I really like Dermalogica’s, it doesn’t have that SPF smell to it. And I always wear eye cream, year round. I use Chanel Sublimage—it’s to die for. Then once I week I run into the Dermalogica store in SoHo and go to the pod—I’m obsessed with the pod. They do a 20-minute-facial. I see Colleen, and I’m like, “Colleen, forget the mask, forget the Vitamin D, just extract my pores.” And that’s all she does for 20 minutes. And I’m lying there in the middle of the room with my feet up, with a zillion windows facing Grand Street.

My hair is a saga. Obviously I’m not a blonde, but I’ve been wanting to go blond since I was 18. I’ve never dyed it all—never Manic Panicked it, never Kool-Aided, always just kept the color natural. And then last year I said, ‘I’m just going to do it.’ I asked Jimmy Paul and he said, ‘You have to go to Maya at Bumble & Bumble, she’s an amazing Japanese colorist and she used to do her hair white.’ So I set up a consultation with her and when I got there she said, ‘Please don’t do it. You’re going to ruin your hair.’ And I was like, ‘I don’t care.’ You know how it is when you’re so set on something? I’m such a Virgo. So I leave the consultation and run right up to the appointment desk and say, ‘I need to book a triple-process.’ It took nine hours. It goes from black to orange, to orange, to orange, to white. Then I let it grow out for a really long time because I love having my roots dark. I go for touch-ups at Momotaro in midtown, it’s right next to Burger Heaven so I’ll grab a burger while the color changes. Before I changed the color I was really no-fuss about haircare—shampoo, conditioner maybe, whatever. Now I do a couple new things—there’s this amazing shampoo called Shimmer Lights for people with silver hair—its purple shampoo. You can buy it at Ricky’s or Eve’s Beauty Supply, where I always go because it’s close to the store. Or I’ll use Kiehl’s. I really like their leave-in conditioner. And I’ll just use a Japanese hair cream, to lay down some of my frizzoids and baby hairs. But I never brush it—I don’t even own a brush.”

12 StyleDENIM

ON FASHION

>> It’s in the jeans. Full-on denim looks were all over the runways for Spring 2011 — Jason Wu, Celine, Stella McCartney, and Chloe all offered up the style — and it looks like the trend is continuing for Fall. Over the past few weeks, we’ve spotted denim-on-denim on a handful of Fashion Week street style regulars — Lauren Santo Domingo even sported two separate versions of the look

at recent shows. While the record-breaking high temperatures in Europe have no doubt made this breezy style work well now, there’s no reason the look can’t be worn straight through Winter with the addition of some key styling pieces. Click through to see street-snapped double-denim inspiration and shop all the looks, here in the slideshow.

Images via - jakandjil.com/

PALM SPRINGS

Desert ScapeBen Miller

info@benmillerphoto.com

FINNISH

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