Bead Embroidery Stitches - Tamil Navarasamtamilnavarasam.in/Books/Embroidery/Beadembroiderystitches.pdf · Bead Embroidery Stitches Back Stitch 1. Attach thread to the back of the

Bead Embroidery Stitches

Back Stitch

1. Attach thread to the back of the fabric by taking a few tiny shallow stitches. Pass the needle through to front and pick up 2 to 5 beads. I have used 4 beads for this example. Make sure the beads are snug against the exiting end of the thread and bring the needle straight down through the fabric right at the end of the row of beads.

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2. Bring the needle up between two of the center beads in your group, in this case between bead 2 and bead 3.

3. Insert the needle through the last half of the beads in your group, in this case through beads 3 and 4. Pull the thread through snugly.



4. Pick up more beads, from 2 to 5, and repeat from Step 1.

Tube Stitch

1. Attach thread to the back of the fabric by taking a few tiny shallow stitches. Bring the needle and thread up from the back of the fabric and pass it through an 11/0 seed bead, a tube bead, and another 11/0 seed bead.



2. Insert the needle right next to the second seed bead and pull through to the back. Add as many more tube bead clusters as you wish.

3. The seed beads on the ends of the tube beads prevent the thread from being cut. The edges of tube beads are almost always rough cut and sharp. Match the color of the 11/0 beads to the tube beads if you wish.



Flat Brick Stitch

1. Attach thread to the back of the fabric by taking a few tiny shallow stitches. Pass the needle through to the front. Insert your needle down through the center of a bead, keeping the bead hole vertical.



2. Pass the needle back up through the first hole, coming up close to where you went down. Make sure to catch enough threads to keep the bead anchored to the fabric. Pass your needle down through the next vertical bead.



3. Continue adding beads in this way, taking a small stitch on the back to anchor each one in a line.

4. This is what your row will look like from the side.



Single Loop Stitch

1. Attach thread to the back of the fabric by taking a few tiny shallow stitches. Bring the needle and thread up from the back of the fabric, pick up a 6/0 seed bead and an odd number of 11/0 seed beads. I found that thirteen worked well for me.

2. Pass the needle back down through the 6/0 bead.



3. Pull snug in the back and knot, or prepare to form the next stitch. You can also use the beads in a line of flat brick stitch to anchor your single loops.



Multiple Loop Stitch or Bouclé Stitch

1. This stitch goes by two different names and can be anchored either on the fabric itself or through a line of back stitches as shown here. Create a line of back stitches. Run your needle through several stitches and bring the thread up between two beads in the back stitch row. Pick up enough beads to create a loop. In this case I used 11. Take your needle through the right side of the back stitch bead and continue through 3 more beads.



2. Pull your loop snug around the back stitch bead.



3. Pick up more beads for the next loop. Insert your needle into the right side of the back stitch bead and pass through 3 more beads.

4. Pull each loop snug as you continue along the line of back stitching.



Simple Stacked Stitch

1. This stitch can be anchored either on the fabric itself as shown here, through a line of back stitches, or through brick stitches.

For the simple stacked stitch, attach your thread to the back of the fabric and pass the needle through to the front. Pick up as many beads as you would like to have in your stack. The last bead does not need to be a different color; I have used this to make it easier to see the stitch.



2. Skip the first bead (called the stopper bead) and pass your needle down through all of the rest. Pull the stack snug against the fabric so that no loose thread is left at the top or the bottom.



3. Pass your needle down through the fabric very close to where it came out. Repeat the steps as many times as you want to add more stacks. Anchor the thread with a knot on the back of the fabric after every couple of stitches for stability.



Stacked Stitch with a Large Bead Top

1. Follow the directions for a Simple Stacked Stitch, except that you will pick up a much larger bead and then your stopper bead.



2. Skipping the stopper bead, run the needle down through the rest of the stack of beads and pull it snug.



3. Run the needle through to the back of the fabric and anchor it with a small knot for stability.



Stacked Stitch on a Back Stitched Row

1. Run your needle through several beads and bring the thread up between two beads in the back stitch row. Follow the instructions for creating a Simple Stacked Stitch, except that you will anchor your stack by running the needle through several more back stitches instead of down through the fabric. Insert your needle into the next bead in the row so that the stitch sits between 2 beads.



2. Create as many stacked stitches as you desire along the row of back stitches.

Edging Brick Stitch

1. This stitch is used to cover the raw edges of two pieces of fabric being joined,



usually the foundation fabric and the backing. Attach the thread to the inside of one piece of fabric, up near the top where you will start stitching by taking several tiny and shallow stitches. Pick up two beads and let the first slide down to the fabric edges.

2. Stitch from back to front through both pieces of fabric directly underneath the second bead. Catch about 1/8 inch of fabric. Do not pull too snugly; you want both beads to sit with their holes facing away from the edge.



3. Run your needle up through the second bead and gently snug it into place.

4. From now on you will add just one bead at a time, stitching from back to front after each addition.



5. After each stitch, needle up through the bead you just added to get into position to add the next bead.

6. This is what the stitches look like from the side. When you get back around to the beginning, you will take your needle down through the first bead you added and take a small 1/8 inch stitch back to front to straighten up the first bead.



Picot Stitch

1. Picot stitch is a good way to hide the threads that show at the top of the edging brick stitch. Working in either direction that is comfortable for you, bring your needle up through one edging bead. Add 1, 3, or 5 beads and stitch down through the next edging bead without catching the fabric.



2. Still without catching the fabric, pass the needle up through the next edging bead and repeat the first step. You can add a picot between every bead pair this way, or you can make a second pass to place another picot between the pairs so that there is a picot between every edging bead.

Fringe Stitch, aka Stacked Stitch on Edging Brick Stitch

This stitch is the same as a stacked stitch, except that you will be anchoring it through edging beads instead of fabric. Bring your needle up through the first edging brick stitch and add the beads for a stacked stitch. Skipping the stopper bead, run your needle back down the stack and through the edging bead.



2. Pull snug and take your needle up through the next edging bead to repeat the first step. After every couple of fringe stitches, stitch into the fabric, following the thread path that already exists to help create stability and security.



ProjectSunShower Necklace

Take the warm colors of a sunny day with you all year round! This project shows you step-by-step how to combine many of the basic bead embroidery stitches that I've shared with you in this e-book into a necklace medallion that will brighten up any day. I have included a pattern that you can use if you'd like to make a necklace just like this one, but feel free to experiment with the design, and the colors too! Would you prefer a blue background for the sun? Go for it! Would you like to mix red and orange into your sun? Please do :-)



In the future you can easily continue to apply the basic flow of these directions to designs of your own. This project also covers how to finish off the medallion with strung neck straps, adjustable so that you can get maximum use from your new necklace. I love to see what people have made, so I hope you'll consider contacting me through Beading Arts and sharing your work!

Materials and Tools

ScissorsBeading needles, size 12Fine tip marker penMeasuring tapeRound nose pliersWire cuttersFlat nose pliersFile2 pieces of ultra-suede, each 4” squareCabochon face, approximately 7/8” across (mine came from Earthenwood Studio) E6000 adhesiveWhite Nymo beading thread, size OMixture of yellow 11/0 seed beads (my mix included transparent light and medium yellow, and opaque yellow)Mixture of brown and gold 11/0 seed beads (my mix included gold hex cuts, light bronze, copper, transparent rootbeer, and iris bronze)Size 8/0 seed beads in opaque yellow, iris bronze, and goldAmber chips (with holes)2 soldered gold rings or figure eights24” of beading wire, 0.019” diameter2” of gold French wire (aka bullion wire)4 gold crimp beadsAssorted beads, 4mm to 10mm, approximately 17 to 18” strung3” of gold chainGold hook clasp with loopGold head pin




http://www.earthenwoodstudio.com/

http://www.earthenwoodstudio.com/

Instructions

1. Glue the cabochon to one of the pieces of ultra-suede using E6000. Let it dry thoroughly.

2. Back stitch two rows of mixed yellow 11/0 seed beads around the cabochon. Make the inner row a multiple of 4 if possible. As each circular row is completed, run your thread through all the beads and pull snugly.



3. Create loop stitches all along the inner circular row of back stitches with the same mixture of yellow 11/0 seed beads. The outer row will cause the loops to stand up well.



4. Still working on the inner row, add stacked stitches between each pair of loop stitches. Pass your needle through 3 beads in the inner row after each stitch. Use the same mixture of yellow 11/0 seed beads, with an opaque yellow bead at the top of each stack.



5. Draw on lines for the “rays” of the sun. You can use this pattern if you'd like, or you can just draw them freehand until they look the way you want. All of the foundation fabric will be covered by beads, so don't worry about neatness...any mistakes with the pen will be covered!



6. Back stitch the rays with opaque yellow 8/0 seed beads.



7. Back stitch in circular rows between each ray with a mixture of gold and brown 11/0 seed beads. Pass the thread on the back side of the fabric beneath each ray; do not simply slide the needle and thread through the line of 8/0 beads.



8. Once you have filled between the rays, back stitch a row of bronze iris 8/0 seed beads all around the outside. Back stitch a second row around approximately three-quarters of the outside, leaving the bottom center quarter with only one row of back stitching.

9. Using flat brick stitch, fill in the bottom center quarter where the second row of back stitching leaves off, using the bronze iris 8/0 seed beads. Add a second row of flat brick stitch just outside of the first row. My rows were approximately 28-30 beads each.



10. Stitch up through each flat brick stitch in the outer row and add a stacked stitch with an amber chip at the top. I like to make mine graduated longer in the center. To do this, count the number of brick stitches you've got in the outer row and divide in half. Decide how many beads for the longest and shortest stacks, and graduate up and down from there. I chose to use 4 seed beads at each end and 12 in the middle. That gave me enough foundation beads for 2 of each number. That is, two stacks with 4 seed beads, two stacks with 5, etc, until I reached 12 at the center.



11. Add a second row of stacked stitches with amber chips at the top, using the flat brick stitches of the inner row as the foundation. This time I graduated my stacks from 2 to 8 seed beads.



12. Holding your scissors perpendicular to the bead work, carefully cut out your circle, being sure not to snip any threads. Try to leave a very thin strip of fabric that extends past the edge, approximately 1/8 inch.

13. Stitch either soldered rings or handmade wire figure 8s like these to the back



of the bead work, near the top where you'd like the neck straps to attach.

14. Optional - Cut a lightweight cardboard or plastic circle approximately ¼ inch smaller than the bead work. It is more important to do this step with larger pieces because it gives stability to the shape of your bead work and prevents it from bending when worn. Lightly glue it in place with E6000.



15. Keeping your glue away from the fabric edges, lightly glue your second piece of fabric to the cardboard lining as a backing. Let the glue dry well before proceeding any further. Cut the extra backing even with the top piece.

16. Start just to the right of the stacked stitch fringe and add a row of edging brick stitch with gold 8/0 seed beads all the way around the circle (including underneath the fringe). Make sure that you catch both pieces of fabric as you



add each stitch.

17. Starting at the same point as in step 16, just to the right of the fringe, stitch a picot between each pair of gold 8/0 seed beads in the edging brick stitch row, using 3 gold 11/0 seed beads for each picot stitch. Stop when you reach the fringe on the other side.

18. Flip the piece over and add one more row of stacked stitch fringe by coming up through each edging brick stitch at the bottom. I graduated this row from 4 to 12 seed beads, just like the row above it.



19. Stringing the necklace straps: Cut 2 pieces of beading wire, 12 inches long each. Cut 4 pieces of gold French wire (aka bullion wire), ½ inch long each and slide one onto the end of one wire.



20. Using a crimp bead, attach the wire to one of the exposed loops near the top of the bead work.

21. Choose beads of various sizes to use for the straps. I used beads from 4mm to 10mm, and included some bronze iris 8/0 seed beads and amber chips.



22. String them in a pattern that is pleasing to you. I alternated each bead or amber chip with seed beads and included approximately 8½ inches of beads. Slide another crimp bead and another piece of French wire onto the end of the beading wire.

23. Crimp around one end of a 3 inch length of gold chain.



24. Repeat steps 20 and 22, and crimp the wire around the loop of your hook clasp.

25. Place a few beads on a head pin and turn a loop, using your flat nose and round nose pliers.



26. Attach the dangle to the end of the chain, and wrap the loop. Cut flush and file if needed.



27. This is what your finished piece will look like. The chain gives you 3 inches of adjustment in the length so that your necklace will suit many necklines!



Gallery of Designs

Ocean Depths, 2009



Orinoco Flow, 2007



Midnight at the Oasis, 2010



Documents

Bead Embroidery Stitches - Tamil Navarasamtamilnavarasam.in/Books/Embroidery/Beadembroiderystitches.pdf · Bead Embroidery Stitches Back Stitch 1. Attach thread to the back of the