Baby Pants Pattern

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    Baby Pants Pattern

    Pattern

    Size: approximately 16" circumference at waist, 10" longGauge: 5 st/1" on size 5 needles or size needed to get gauge

    Needles: set of 5 DPNs in size needed to get gauge

    These pants are worked in the round, with a folded hem at the top for a drawstringclosure and shaping across the backside to make room for the diaper. The cuffs of the

    pants are also worked with a folded hem, to match the top of the pants. The pocket is

    worked separately, then sewn on later.

    Hem

    CO 80 st using waste yarn and provisional crochet cast on (our tutorial is here),

    Steps 1 & 2: Make a crochet chain using waste yarn -- preferably, something smooth andin color which is readily visible against your working yarn, in approximatley the same

    weight. To make your chain, just grab the strand of yarn with your hook...

    ...and bring it through the loop. Always make the chain several chains longer than the

    number of stitches you need to pick up, so you have some room for error.

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    Step 3: When you're done making the chain as long as you need it to be (plus a few

    extra) cut the yarn, bring it through the last loop, tug gently to close (gently! You're goingto have to undo that later) and tie a knot in that end, to remind yourself that this is the end

    you'll be "unzipping" from later on. Now flip your chain over and take a gander at the

    bumps -- they kinda look like purl bumps, right? -- on the back side (assuming the frontside is the "v's" you see as you are working the chain.) You are going to pick up stitches

    through these bumps.

    Step 4: Start picking up stitches through the bumps. I "pick" at stitches to pick them up,wrapping each one around the needle...

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    Step 5: ...and bringing it through. (Leave a long tail so you can weave that end in later.)

    Step 6: Hooray! You have picked up your stitches. Now you can do whatever the heck

    you want to do -- work a short row toe, knit your sweater front, whatever.

    Step 7: I was boring and just knit a few rows of stockinette and bound off.

    Step 8: Remember how I mentioned in Step 3 that you should make a little knot so you

    will know from which end to unzip your cast on? Don't you feel smart for doing that? Pat

    yourself on the back, and maybe go pour yourself a glass of wine to prepare yourself forthe next steps, which involve stitches being all naked and loosey-goosey.

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    Step 9: Take the end with the knot in it and bring it back out through the loop you drew itthrough to close your chain -- thus re-opening your chain. Now give that end a tug (a

    gentle tug, just in case there was some snaggage when you picked up your stitches.)

    Step 10: I told you there would be naked stitches.

    Step 11: You might want to put them on a needle, for decency's sake.

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    Step 12: Yay! All done. You now have a whole whack of live stitches, ready to do yourbidding!

    change to main yarn. Join to work in the round. Round begins at side of waist.

    Knit 6 rounds

    Purl 1 round (turning round)Knit 2 rounds

    Knit 17, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, knit to end of round. (This forms the eyelets you will later

    pull the drawstring through.)Knit 2 rounds

    Unzip provisional cast on, holding live stitches on a smaller circular needle or flexible

    holders, then fold over the hem at the purl ridge andjointhe sides of the hem together in

    the next round by knitting together one stitch from each needle until all stitches havebeen worked (because of the nature of the knit stitch, there may be only 79 live stitches

    from the provisional cast-on side this is fine, if this is the case simply knit the last stitch

    plain.) The eyelets will be at the center of the front of the pants.

    Waist

    Continue in stockinette stitch (knit every round) for 5 rounds, then work increase roundas follows:

    Knit across 40 stitches (front of pants), k1, M1, k to 1 stitch from end of round, M1, k1.

    Repeat this increase round every 6th round 3 more times for a total of four increaserounds (88 stitches.) Continue in st st until work measures 5" from turning round (purl

    round) of hem, then work decrease round as follows: Knit across 40 stitches (front of

    pants), ssk, k to 2 st from end of round, k2tog. Repeat this decrease round every round a

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    further 3 times for a total of four decrease rounds (80 st). Knit 20 stitches, place next 40

    stitches on a holder. You are now ready to begin working the first pant leg.

    Legs

    40 of your stitches are on a holder. The other 40 live stitches will be used to work the first

    (right) leg. Using the working yarn, which should be at the center front of your work(remember, the eyelets are at the center front) CO 4 stitches using the backwards loop

    method, and join to work the 44 live stitches in the round (the 4 stitches you have justcast on will form the crotch seam). Continue in stockinette stitch in the round (knit every

    round) for 4 or desired length of leg. Purl one round (this is the turning round for the

    cuff of the pant leg) then work a further 5 rounds in stockinette stitch. Bind off using thesuspended bind offmethod. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for seaming the hem of the

    leg.

    To work the second (left) leg, rejoin the yarn at the center front of the work. (If you leave

    a long tail, you can use it to sew the crotch seam later.) Knit 40 stitches, then CO 4

    stitches using the backwards loop method and join to work these 44 live stitches in theround. Continue to match first leg.

    Drawstring

    Using two of your DPNs or a single circular needle, CO 3 stitches and work an i-cord

    long enough to thread through hem and tie at waist, about 32" or desired length. (To workan i-cord, knit your stitches, then -- never turning your work -- slide them down the

    needle to knit them on the following row, pulling the yarn tight across the back. Repeat

    ad infinitum.)

    Pocket

    CO 12 stitches. Work in st st for 12 rows, then bind off. Sew three sides of pocket to pant

    leg. To work pocket flap, pick up 12 stitches (Knitty tutorial here) above pocket.

    Row 1 (WS) k2, p8, k2

    Row 2 (RS) k acrossRepeat these two rows to close to desired length of flap, knit 3 rows (garter stitch), bind

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    off. You may wish to tack down the top of the sides of the flap, so that it will appear to

    lay flat over the pocket.

    Finishing

    Fold down seams on pant cuffs at purl ridge. Whip stitch hem to inside of pant cuffs.

    Thread drawstring through eyelets on waist hem (the easiest way to do this is to thread atapestry needle or large safety pin onto one of the yarn tails on the i-cord, then push this

    through an eyelet and around the hem.) Sew crotch seam. Weave in all ends. Block ifdesired.