ARMANI’S FEBRUARY DATE/2 THE OVEREXPOSURE INDEX/12Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • December 16, 2005 • $2.00

WWDFRIDAYBeauty

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Hair RaisingNEW YORK — You could say hair today, hair

tomorrow is Shiseido’s credo with its newest

product, Adenogen. Designed to help men’s thinning

hair fatten up, it is already a runaway hit in Japan.

Adenogen, which will retail for $66, will hit U.S.

specialty store doors in April. For more, see page 7.

See Keeping, Page6

Beauty’s Holiday Hope:Last-Minute ShoppersSeen Saving the SeasonBy Julie Naughton and Matthew W. Evans

NEW YORK — Last year, beauty retailerswere saved on the night beforeChristmas — and they believe theprestige market is gearing up for arepeat performance. In fact, a number ofstore executives are predicting gains inthe mid- to high-single digits.

“The [holiday] business will come atleast as late as it did last year — and theswing of Hanukkah lined up withChristmas will push the business evenlater,” predicted Howard Kreitzman,vice president and divisionalmerchandise manager for cosmetics and

WWD.COM2 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2005

GENERALLast year, beauty retailers were saved on the night before Christmas — andthey believe the prestige market is gearing up for a repeat performance.

Sears will open a pop-up store at the ABC “Good Morning America”studios at Times Square Saturday featuring top-selling gifts.

EYE: Screening “Match Point,” the latest from Woody Allen…a sit-downwith Bruce Weber…and a closer look at the “Dog Sees God” cast.

Retailers predict increased beauty sales will be delivered by last-minuteshoppers this season.

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WWDFRIDAYBeauty

● P.R. CHANGES: Effective Jan. 3, Donna Karan International isrelocating its European public relations efforts to London fromMilan. The London-based agency Purple will oversee the compa-ny’s communications for Europe, and the p.r. department in DKI’sMilan offices is closing down. Chantal Theodore, the Milan-basedp.r. director, will be leaving the company. “By operating out ofLondon, our European public relations efforts are more central-ized to service Europe,” said Patti Cohen, DKI’s executive vicepresident of global marketing and communications. “Purple willallow DKI to respond quickly to local press and marketing needsand requests, as well as to explore new business opportunities.”

● PRADA APPOINTMENTS: Prada on Thursday named ArmandoTolomelli as director of group control. Tolomelli was previouslycontroller at Barilla. In a statement, Prada said it plans tostrengthen the control function in its commercial department.Prada also named Cinzia Tito as group director of human re-sources. Tito previously managed human resources at Colgate-Palmolive, first in Italy and Europe, then in the U.S. and China.

In Brief

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Ellen Tracy has reached an agreement in principle withClearVision Optical Co. to produce the Ellen Tracy EyewearCollection. The deal has not been completed yet. The status wasincorrect in an item on page 2, Wednesday.

Correction

NEW YORK — Bloomingdale’s public memorial serv-ice in memory of Kal Ruttenstein will be 11 a.m. Jan.11 at Carnegie Hall, on West 57th Street and SeventhAvenue here. The doors will open at 10:30 a.m.

Ruttenstein died of complications from canceron Dec. 8. He was 69.

Ruttenstein was Bloomingdale’s senior vice

president of fashion direction, a veteran of thestore for almost three decades and among themost influential and best-known fashion execu-tives in the country. He nurtured many young de-signers, spotted emerging trends ahead of thecompetition and brought merchandising flair tothe selling floors and windows at Bloomingdale’s.

Memorial Set for Kal Ruttenstein

PARIS — Emanuel Ungaro is poaching a design-er from Italy’s Roberto Cavalli to give the housenew creative élan.

Norwegian Peter Hyde Dundas, 39, part ofCavalli’s team for the last three years, will suc-ceed Vincent Darré as artistic director at Ungaro,sources confirmed. The house on Thursday for-mally announced Darré’s departure.

An announcement of Dundas’ appointment isexpected as early as today. WWD on Tuesday re-ported that Dundas would get the job. Dundas

worked at Jean Paul Gaultier from 1992 to 2000before moving to Cavalli.

He joins Ungaro at a moment of transition.Last month, San Francisco entrepreneur AsimAbdullah bought the firm from GruppoFerragamo with plans to give it greater globalreach.

Dundas will be the third designer — afterDarré and Giambattista Valli — to follow infounder Emanuel Ungaro’s footsteps.

— Robert Murphy

Ungaro Picks Dundas for Design Post

NEW YORK — Sears brands suchas Lands’ End, Craftsman andKenmore may play in Peoria, Ill.,but will they play in Manhattan?

That’s what Sears HoldingsCorp. wants to find out. The par-ent of Sears, Roebuck andKmart will open two 150-square-foot Sears shops at Kmart loca-tions here, at 250 West 34thStreet and 770 Broadway.

“Sears doesn’t have any storesin Manhattan at all,” aspokesman said. “We want to seethe customer reaction and re-sponse to Sears products. Wewant to introduce Sears mer-chandise into Kmart and see howit sells. We have Kenmore appli-ances and Craftsman tools insome Kmart stores and Die Hardbatteries in all Kmart stores. Thisis a further expression of that ina Manhattan location.”

If the test succeeds, it couldmean more Sears merchandiseon Kmart shelves. And a compa-ny spokesman didn’t rule outthe possibility of a full storeconversion far down the road.

The in-store Sears shopswon’t have a softline assortmentrepresentative of a Sears depart-ment store “because that wouldbe confusing,” the spokesmansaid. “We have a full assortmentof Kmart apparel and softlines.This will be more of a vignette, ifyou will, with a limited selectionof Lands’ End.”

“Sears is in a period of ex-

perimentation,” said ArnoldAronson, managing director ofretail strategies at Kurt SalmonAssociates. “For them to try tomeasure how well some of theirbest brand assets can do bycross-pollinating them withtheir other property, Kmart, isworth an experimentation.”

Sears Holdings also is lookingat The Home Depot, which aggres-sively has moved into Manhattanand is having some success. “Thatsays there’s an appetite for peoplehere who are do-it-yourselfers,”Aronson said. “Sears wants to getits share of that.”

As part of Sears’ effort toraise its New York profile, thecompany last month erected asnow globe in front of theNasdaq building in TimesSquare. In addition, a 1,500-square-foot Sears holiday pop-up shop will open in the “GoodMorning America” studios onBroadway and 44th Street onSaturday and stay open through

Dec. 22. The store will feature 25top-selling gifts such as portableDVD players; Lands’ End squalljackets, gloves, hats and scarves;Covington cashmere cardigans;Apostrophe opera jackets; terryvelour robes, and tools. Largeitems such as wide-screen TVscan be ordered through a wire-less Internet kiosk with access tosears.com and landsend.com.

The store’s hours of opera-tion, 1 p.m. to 8 p.m., “are un-usual,” the spokesman said,adding that they’re necessitatedby the ABC show’s schedule.“The store has to be taken downand reassembled every night.That’s as quickly as we get it to-gether in the morning.”

And why has the store“popped up” so late in the sea-son? “It was planned as an ex-citing finish to the season and away to attract last-minute shop-pers and procrastinators,” thespokesman said.

— Sharon Edelson

By Luisa Zargani

MILAN — Giorgio Armani will kick off MilanFashion Week, tentatively showing on Feb. 19.

Mario Boselli, head of the Italian Chamber ofFashion, praised Armani for his decision, con-sidering it a pivotal step helping to convince in-ternational editors and retailers to stay for theentire week. “We’ve never had a Giorgio Armanishow open the week on a Sunday,” said Boselli.“Mr. Armani is a major entrepreneur and de-signer, who wants to do something important forthe Italian fashion system.”

An Armani spokesman said the designer “en-

joys showing at the beginning of the week. Wehave the advantage to meet buyers and press af-terwards, and set up important appointments forthe whole week, especially now that our acces-sories business is growing.”

The spokesman noted the company has oftenopened the week with Emporio Armani.

As reported, Milan Fashion Week is goingback to a longer schedule, after a five-day weeklast September was deemed too taxing by buyersand editors. Next spring, the shows will run fromFeb. 18 to 26. Boselli said he is hoping a big-league designer will close the week, either onthe evening of Feb. 25 or the morning of Feb. 26.

Armani to Start Milan Fashion Week

“There’s energy in New York…Awhite wall in New York is not a whitewall in Paris because there’s not thesame energy.’’

— Karl Lagerfeld

Quote of the WeekThe Sears pop-up store will have a high-tech feel.

Sears Popping Up in Manhattan

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NEW YORK — After sitting throughWednesday night’s Hogan-sponsoredCinema Society screening of “Match Point,”Woody Allen’s disturbing film about anobsessive adulterous affair, many needed a

drink. Patricia Clarkson wisely took a glass of bubbly withher into the Tribeca Grand’s screening room to view theflick, but others such as Philip Seymour Hoffman, BetteMidler, Marjorie Raein and Ivanka Trump had to wait untilthe after party at the Soho Grand.

Thanks to Allen’s casting choices and a dose of luck,there was a heavy contingent of sexy men, includingMatthew Goode, Jonathan Rhys-Meyers, Josh Lucas anda very tardy Josh Hartnett. And, as one would expect,they were surrounded by ladies. Rhys-Meyers, for one,came unchaperoned and wandered through the crowdaccepting accolades for his performance as ChrisWilton, a social-climbing tennis pro. Though the filmis deeply sinister, it was actually the tennis that gaveRhys-Meyers the most trouble. He admitted to notbeing very good, and, thankfully, was never asked toplay against the more skilled Allen. “He would havekicked my ass,” he said with a smile. “And he’s myboss, so I would have let him.”

Yes, most people would let Allen do whatever hewants, including skippinghis own screening. Thedirector has never reallyseen the virtue ofwatching one of his filmsin front of an audience.“It doesn’t interest me atall,” he said. “I’ve beenworking on this film for a longtime. I made it two years ago andI’ve done two movies since then. It’sold for me now.”

What’s likely new for the director,however, is his close proximity to afashion plate. Scarlett Johanssonhad him pinned against the wall fora portion of the evening, procuringfashion advice. “How long have you had thatcoat?” she asked him after he critiqued herMoschino frock.

“Longer than the shoes,” he saidunapologetically.

“And you’re giving me fashion advice,” shelaughed, though she later admitted the simpleblack Moschino was actually the first dress Allenhad approved of during their publicity rounds.

The starlet didn’t have him cornered for toolong, though, as the notoriously shy director triedto make a subtle exit with his wife, Soon-Yi.“You’re going to miss me dancing on the bar,”Johansson cooed.

WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 20054WWD.COM

NEW YORK — After being translated into 21 languages, immortalizedin the musical “You’re a Good Man, Charlie Brown” and analyzedendlessly by academics, who saw it as everything from an extensionof existentialist philosophy to a parable about Christian ethics, the“Peanuts” comic strip is being reinvented yet again. Today, an“unauthorized parody,” called “Dog Sees God: Confessions of aTeenage Blockhead,” opens off-Broadway at the Century Center forthe Performing Arts at 111 East 15th Street. The play features a leadnamed CB, a dog that has terminal rabies and enough “on the verge”actors to fill an entire entertainment issue of Teen People. Here’s acheat sheet about four of its young stars. — J.B.

Eddie Kaye Thomas, 25Character: CBBegan acting: “When I was seven, I did a play called ‘New Jersey, NewYork,’” says the actor, who starred as Finch in the “American Pie” series. Relationship to his character: He never owned a dog, but he found

much to identify with in the play. “It’s a love story,” he says, “alittle ‘Catcher in the Rye’-esque, about that thing that happenswhen you realize your parents aren’t superheroes.”

Eliza Dushku, 24Character: Van’s sister, a takeoff on Lucy.Began acting: At the age of 10, she got the lead in a movie called“That Night,” but she’s better known for playing Faith on thetelevision show “Buffy the Vampire Slayer,” and Missy Pantone inthe cheerleading flick “Bring It On.” Relationship to her character: “I was driven, tyrannical, precocious andas loud as it gets. I was always therapizing other people’s problems.”

America Ferrera, 21Character: CB’s sister, based on Sally.Began acting: At age seven in a production of “Romeo and Juliet.” “Iplayed the apothecary,” says Ferrera, whose career has been on the ascentsince her role as Carmen in this year’s “Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants.”Relationship to her character: “I’m the youngest of six kids, so Iknow what it’s like to be the younger sibling. She’s searching byherself and doesn’t fit in at all.”

Ian Somerhalder, 27Character: MattBegan acting: At the age of six as Rolfe in a school production of“The Sound of Music.” Then he got his break in 2004 on the ABCdrama “Lost,” playing Boone Carlyle, a guy who eventually dies aparticularly grisly death before the end of season one. Relationship to his character: “He’s based on Pigpen. Now he’s a completegerma-phobe. I’m totally OCD.” To say the least, it’s a stretch from “Lost,”on which he played a character whose only baths were in the ocean, butwho never lost the gym body. “They’re eating fruit and pork. It’s only oneday an episode,” he laughs. “So after one season, it’s only day 35.”

NEW YORK — He’s photographed adcampaigns for Versace, Calvin Klein andRalph Lauren and been a contributor to Vogueand Vanity Fair for years. Now, Bruce Weber’sfashion photography has been compiled in a450-page coffee-table book called “Blood,Sweat and Tears: How I Stopped Worryingand Learned to Love Fashion,” published byteNeues. WWD caught up with him before hisbook signing at Bergdorf Goodman Wednesdaynight to discuss his work, magazines and hislove for Helmut Newton. — Jacob Bernstein

WWD: The title of the book is “Blood, Sweatand Tears: How I Stopped Worrying andLearned to Love Fashion.” Yet it seems in manyways that your obsession with physicalperfection makes you perfectly suited to thefashion world.

Bruce Weber:Thanks. I take that asa major complimentbecause most peoplethink I like to throwthe clothes right outthe window. Editorssay to me, “Whereare the clothes?” andI say, “The dog hasthem in its mouth.”I’m always getting introuble becausepeople wanted to see the clothes from headto toe on the models.

WWD: By everybody, whom do you mean?B.W.: Everybody [big laugh]. One time,

when I first started, I was doing a job forGlamour, with Patti Hansen and this young guynamed Keith. I was on a farm and I got reallyinvolved with this horse, and I thought,“Wouldn’t it be great if you just got a glimpse of[the people] from the side?” Because I thought,“The jeans aren’t new.” Then I came back withthe pictures and they said, “Where are theclothes?” And I said, “They’re in your mind oryour spirit.” I like to look at fashion reportagepictures in the newspapers, because there’s afreeness to it. They’re not so concerned aboutit in the way people selling clothes need to be.Maybe it’d be better if clothes weren’t sold, ifthey were just given away.

WWD: It’s also about having a sense ofhumor, correct?

B.W.: Yes. I always felt a sense of humorallows you to get away with a lot.

WWD: Toward the end of the book, youwrite about growing up near a woman namedLypsinka, who taught you how to wear highheels and couture. Then you show the dragqueen Lypsinka on the next page.

B.W.: I wanted to do a make-believe story,sort of like the kind my parents read to me asa child. I kind of imagined a neighbor likethat because I wished I’d had one. Maybethen I’d see the world in a different way.

WWD: What’s wrong with your world viewnow? Do you think you’re too square?

B.W.: I grew up in a small town in theMidwest, I went to boarding school and BaptistCollege. That seems pretty square to me.

WWD: One of the book’s most surprisingimages is Helmut Newton with his wife, June.She’s dressed in men’s drag and his hand ison her breast. Were you a big fan of his?

B.W.: Yeah. Helmut and June were sort of myadoptive parents. I spent so much time withthem at the Chateau Marmont. I loved that heloved women so much and so one day, I thought,“Why not dress June up like a guy?” Partlybecause Helmut was always teasing me aboutphotographing all these good-looking men.

WWD: What other photographers inspiredyour work?

B.W.: Lisette Model, my teacher at TheNew School. I found out about her throughDiane Arbus. I really admired her so much.Also, Edward Weston and August Sander.

eye®

FASHION VICTIM

Scarlett

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Moschino.

Emily

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Jonathan Rhys-MeyersJonathan Rhys-Meyers

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fragrances at Bloomingdale’s. The standouts so far in fragrance include the scents

from the celebrity trio of Sarah Jessica Parker, BritneySpears and Jennifer Lopez, as well as the designer fra-grances Calvin Klein’s Euphoria, Youth Dew AmberNude, Miss Dior Cherie and Viktor & Rolf ’sFlowerbomb. Newsmakers on the men’s side includedRalph Lauren’s Polo Black, Armani Code by GiorgioArmani and Canali.

Retailers are banking on an extra day betweenThanksgiving and Christmas, plus an extra push fromHanukkah, which starts on Dec. 26, compared withDec. 8 last year.

“The business will continue to be late, late, late,”agreed a major department store retailer, who request-ed anonymity. “We really won’t know how we did untilwe all wake up on the 26th.”

And, said the retailer, business will continue to belate going forward.

“Every year, Black Friday has less and less of an im-pact overall,” said the department store retailer. “Thebusiness was OK, because of the newness and heavysales promotions, but it’s becoming less and less of anindicator as far as holiday business, at least for beauty.”While business is currently “relatively flat” in beauty,the additional day between Thanksgiving and Christmasis expected to give the business a lift. “However, we’renot anticipating a huge windfall,” said the retailer.

But many say they are prepared for the last-minuterush.

“We still see the final weekend before Christmas asthe strongest weekend of the season, even though shop-pers have a full week — including Saturday — after-wards,” said Betsy Olum, senior vice president of mar-keting for Sephora. “But we do expect to be busy in thefinal week, as the procrastinators spread the shoppingseason out to its last days. We are also optimistic forthe final week of December. We have a lot of new andexclusive products to launch on 12/26, and the fact thatHanukkah falls immediately after Christmas suggestsan extra strong post-Christmas week.”

“Business was strong the entire week preceding theholiday and throughout the Thanksgiving weekend,with particularly strong online sales,” continued Olum.“The strong momentum we’ve experienced year-to-date,including Thanksgiving, bodes well for holiday sales.”

At Saks Fifth Avenue, Bulgari’s Red Tea fragrancewill be launched exclusively on Sunday, noted KateOldham, the retailer’s vice president and dmm of cos-

metics accessories and fragrances. On Dec. 1, Sean“Diddy” Combs hand-delivered the first shipment ofthe so-called “couture” version of his new men’s fra-grance for the Estée Lauder Cos., which will be carriedat Saks’ Manhattan; Beverly Hills, Calif.; Atlanta; BalHarbour, Fla., and Dadeland, Fla., stores.

Saks launched five scents this fall. “We are veryhappy with all of our new fragrances,” Oldham re-marked. “We are very optimistic for our Christmas sea-son. Our fragrance business has been enjoying a strongperformance this fall.”

Versus Thanksgiving last year, Belk’s fragrance busi-ness was up in the high-double digits, according to JonPollack, executive vice president and general merchan-dise manager for cosmetics and fragrances. “The

strength was really on the women’s side,” saidPollack. “We’re very bullish on the fragrancepart of the business. It should end Decemberwith a double-digit increase in total.”

Pollack said he anticipates women’s willbe stronger than men’s, with women’s expect-ed to be up in the high-double digits andmen’s up in the high-single digits. “There’s somuch more news and animation in the mar-keting efforts [on the women’s side].”

The fragrance business at BergdorfGoodman has been “extremely robust for theseason,” said Ed Burstell, senior vice presi-dent and gmm of cosmetics, accessories andfootwear, “and we’re exceeding plan for sea-son-to-date so far.” He noted both women’sand men’s were trending up.

Shelley Rozenwald, senior vice presidentof cosmetics, skin care, fragrance and beautyservices at Holt Renfrew, said, “We had agreat November.” She added that fragrancehas been a strong business for the past 18months, with women’s scents up 15 percentyear-over-year for November and men’s up 7percent. The retailer launched seven newscents this season. As for the rest of the year,Rozenwald said she was anticipating an in-crease of 18 percent on the women’s sidecompared with last year and a 7 percent riseon the men’s side. “So far, it looks reallypromising.”

“Since Studio is not promotionally driven,this date is less critical to us than to other typesof retailers,” said Robin Coe-Hutshing, founderand creative director for the Studio at FredSegal. “However, it is the beginning of the sea-son, and we can use it as a litmus to gauge sea-

sonal business. The first weekend of December is a wake-up call for shoppers and we usually see a sharp rise insales and traffic beginning at that point. [However] peopleare just dipping their toe in at this point. Our real holidaybusiness tends to hit a bit later — and once it begins, it isnonstop. That said, we were very pleased with the trendand anticipate a very good response to our holiday offer-ing.” Coe-Hutshing added that she expects holiday salesto be “about even” with last year.

Shawn Tavakoli, owner of Los Angeles-based BeautyCollection boutique, believes that the surge will come lateagain this year. “I don’t think it is going to be any differentthis year,” said Tavakoli. “People have more on theirplate every year and they procrastinate. Also, everyonewants to take advantage of the last-minute sales.”

That was somewhat apparent on Black Friday,Tavakoli added: “Since most of our customers are hit-ting the mall on Black Friday, we really do not get a bighit. Most of beauty business is done through depart-ment stores rather than specialty beauty boutiquestores like ours. Our biggest increase in sales [on BlackFriday] was through our Internet sales.”

While fragrances traditionally perform well duringthe holiday season, the skin care and color cosmeticscategories are gaining strength for gift-giving. “Thewhole skin care category — especially the sets — areseeing excellent sell-through,” said the unnamed retail-er. “And in makeup — and the eye category in particular— we’re also seeing strong sell-through. Eye shadowkits are doing well, and there seems to be a resurgencein lipstick, as opposed to lip gloss. Clinique’s ButterShine lipstick is doing especially well, and their holidaycolor story has done particularly good business.Lancôme mascaras are another standout. In general,kits or items where there’s newness and novelty aredoing well.” Color and skin care items from Shiseido,Clarins, Chanel, BeneFit and Bobbi Brown also are per-forming very well, said the retailer.

“At Sephora, we offer many exclusive gift sets andunique products across all beauty categories and ourbrand partners have really stepped up with excitingmerchandise this season,” said Olum. “Our exclusivesets from Bare Escentuals, Smashbox, Fusion Beautyand T3 are doing extremely well. Products that can’t befound anywhere else from Philosophy, Dior and GoSmile are also doing well this holiday season.

“In makeup, our Lip category is being driven bysome great lip-plumping and lip gloss gift sets. The LipFusion plumping set from Fusion Beauty is a top seller,along with sets from City Lips and Too Faced. Glosssets from Lorac, Dior and our own Sephora brand alsohave been well received.

The Beauty Report

Keeping the Faith: Retailers Hop

WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 20056

Shoppers on the selling

floor at Macy’s Thursday.

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“Bath sales usually don’t kick in until later in the season, but weare very encouraged by the strong performance in these categoriesthis early on, driven in part by gift sets from Philosophy, L’Occitaneand our own Sephora label.”

Studio’s Coe-Hutshing also is seeing strength in high-end skincare. “Luxury creams — such as Crème de la Mer, Taer Icelandicand Freeze 24/7 — are becoming a great holiday gift,” she said.

As far as fragrances go, Saks’ Oldham said bright spots on thewomen’s side this fall have been Viktor & Rolf ’s Flowerbomb, BondNo. 9, Estée Lauder’s Youth Dew Amber Nude, the Jo Malone busi-ness, Creed and Miss Dior Cherie. Standouts on Saks’ men’s side in-clude Canali, Armani Code and Bulgari Aqua Pour Homme. Oldhamadded, “John Varvatos and Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label continue tobe strong.”

Belk’s has introduced 20 scents for this fall and standouts in-clude Euphoria by Calvin Klein, Lovely Sarah Jessica Parker andFantasy Britney Spears. On the men’s side, “Polo Black has beenterrific and [Liz Claiborne Cosmetics’] Soul has done very well forus,” said Pollack, who noted Armani Code and the designer’s Acquadi Giò scents have been tremendous. Pollack added that both clas-sic and recent entries have seen strength, including TommyBahama fragrances, and Live Jennifer Lopez, Estée Lauder’sPleasures, Donna Karan’s Cashmere Mist and Chanel’s CocoMademoiselle and No.5.

The unnamed department store retailer named Lovely SarahJessica Parker and Fantasy Britney Spears as two standout fra-grances, and noted that other strong sellers include Calvin Klein’sEuphoria, DKNY’s Be Delicious, Donna Karan’s Cashmere Mist anda good part of Chanel’s fragrance portfolio, with Coco Mademoiselleespecially strong. Estée Lauder’s Pleasures also is doing well, “es-pecially with the addition of Pleasures Exotic.”

On the men’s side, the retailer observed that “L’Oréal seems tohave the men’s side sewn up.” Among the standouts for men areGiorgio Armani’s perennial bestseller, Acqua di Giò Pour Homme,as well as Armani Code, Ralph Lauren’s Polo Black and Polo Blueand Calvin Klein’s Obsession for Men.

Bergdorf ’s Burstell noted that a number of scents and brandshave highlighted the retailer’s fragrance business this season,which saw the introduction of five new scents and a number of lineextensions. Standout performers include Creed’s Love in White,Etro, L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Fleur d’Oranger, Guerlain, CliveChristian, Jo Malone, Agraria, Santa Maria Novella and Anthousa.

For Holt Renfrew’s Rozenwald, “Jo Malone was the leader of thepack.” Thierry Mugler’s Angel assortment has been particularlystrong, as well. Other highlights in women’s include Prada’s fra-grance and Tom Ford’s Youth Dew Amber Nude for Lauder. On themen’s side, standouts include Canali, Armani Code and Acqua di Giò.

Donna Karan’s Essence also has been a bright spot, because“people don’t want to smell like everyone else,” said Rozenwald,who contended Armani Privé was experiencing success for thesame reason — like Essence, Privé features four different scents.Matthew Williamson’s scent has been a standout, Rozenwald noted,adding she’s looking forward to the January or February launch ofJean Paul Gaultier’s Power of Two masterbrand.

Sephora’s Olum noted, “The early read on fragrance suggests astrong December. Our list of top sellers for the holiday season sofar includes Pink Sugar, Stella McCartney, Philosophy’s Graceand Prada. For holiday, we’ve teamed up with our brand partnersto create Sephora’s most exciting gift set yet — our customFragrance Gift for Her. This set includes nine samples of our top-selling women’s fragrances to try, plus a gift voucher of equalvalue that can be redeemed at any Sephora store for a full-sizebottle of any one of the samples included. Gift sets from Dolce &Gabbana Light Blue, DKNY Be Delicious and Burberry are alsodoing very well so far.”

Fragrance standouts at Bloomingdale’s include NarcisoRodriguez for Her, Alien by Thierry Mugler, Calvin Klein Euphoriaand Vera Wang on the women’s side, and Ralph Lauren Polo Black,“the entire house” of Cartier scents, Canali and Giorgio Armani’sCode on the men’s side. Color and treatment also is trending strongfor the holidays, Kreitzman said.

At Studio, a number of categories, including fragrances, candles,accessories, sachets and fragrance diffusers, are “all continuing astrong performance,” said Coe-Hutshing, with standout scents in-cluding Nanadebary; L’Artisan Parfumeur Moodswings five-fra-grance set, $110; Serge Lutens Cedre Fragrance; Molinard Nirmala,and exclusive limited-edition dramming silver vials of our signatureLiquid scents from Burn [Coe-Hutshing’s candle line] such asHinoki Temple Incense.”

“This year, we have put a lot of effort in preparing for the holi-days,” said Tavakoli. “We are anticipating increased sales com-pared to last year. Beauty Collection specializes in specialty fra-grances such as Bond No. 9, Creed and L’Artisan, and we have seenincreased sales in our Creed fragrances. Usually during the holi-days, our bath, body and candle categories outperform the rest ofour personal care categories. We also see a big increase in cosmet-ics mirrors and flat irons.”

WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2005 7

WWD.COM

NEW YORK — Shiseido is planning forrapid growth this spring — not just in itscore business, but also in an entirely newcategory. The company that is synonymouswith women’s skin care is attempting tohelp men with one of life’s most persistentand inescapable problems: thinning hair.

In April, the brand will launch AdenogenHair Energizing Formula, a product aimedat helping men retain their hair, which is al-ready a top seller in Japan.

“We’ve had a great season and a greatyear,” said Heidi Manheimer, president ofU.S. operations for Shiseido Cosmetics(America) Ltd. Among the standouts, shenamed Future Solution eye and lip productsand the brand’s Benefiance line.

“We’re up more than 7 percent year-to-date at both Federated and Nordstrom, andwe’re seeing double-digit growth in someother doors, including Sephora,” addedManheimer, who was recently named chiefexecutive officer of Shiseido Cosmetics(America) Ltd., effective Jan. 1. “We’replanning to keep the momentum going intothe spring.”

While Manheimer declined to commenton sales figures, industry sources estimatedthat the Shiseido brand could do as much as$210 million in retail sales in the U.S. in2006. Sources estimate that it will havedone about $200 million in retail by year-end 2005.

Manheimer expects Adenogen to be oneof the drivers behind growth in 2006. Whilethe product won’t grow hair on a scalp that is already bald, it is designed to encourage existinghair follicles to produce thicker hair, Manheimer said — and it also will draw in a largely un-tapped pool of consumers: aging men. Shiseido entered the men’s business in the first half ofthis year.

Adenogen’s key ingredient is a bio-engineered version of adenosine. Adenosine is a naturalcomponent of nucleic acid, which is said to encourage the production of Fibroblast GrowthFactor 7 (FGF-7) — a protein that is a major component of hair growth, said Manheimer.

In the U.S., Adenogen Hair Energizing Formula will be available in about 200 doors, includingBarneys New York. It will retail for $66 for 150 ml.

Several women’s products also are slated for spring launches. Key among them is ShimmeringLipstick, intended to be a cross between lipstick and lip gloss, noted Tomoko Yamagishi-Dressler,vice president of marketing for Shiseido Prestige Brands. The formula includes the proprietaryUltra-Refractive Oil, an ingredient that is said to combine the luster look of a gloss with thelonger wear time of a traditional lipstick, as well as hydroxyapatite, which is intended to concealrough lip surfaces and vertical lines. Six shades, each priced at $22, will be offered, beginning inFebruary. A national ad will break in March fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, and upwardof 50,000 lipstick samples are slated to be distributed at counter.

The brand’s best-selling Benefiance skin care line will get two new products in February: PureRetinol Intensive Revitalizing Mask, at $60 for four masks, and Concentrated Neck ContourTreatment, at $48 for 50 ml. The revitalizing mask has potency equal to half a bottle of the brand’santiaging serum — about 50 applications, said Yamagishi-Dressler. The product includes pure liq-uid retinol, vitamin C derivative, hesperidin (a compound derived from citrus fruits that is said toenhance microcirculation) and ginseng. It is intended as a 15-minute, once-a-week nighttimetreatment and will be available in February.

Concentrated Neck Contour Treatment, also coming in February, is intended for daily use.“The skin on the neck is not adhered to any muscle, so it is prone to deep wrinkling, especially asyou age,” said Yamagishi-Dressler. “This product forms a film that supports skin, almost like acorset.” It does so with the proprietary Firm Support Formula, which uses polymers to accom-plish that goal. The neck product also uses the proprietary Anti-Photowrinkle System withchlorella extract, said to reduce damage to the skin’s elastic fibers.

The brand also will add a ninth stockkeeping unit, White Lucent Brightening Toning Lotion, toits White Lucent line in March. The new skin brightener, $44 for 150 ml., is intended to cool andrefresh skin, and to visually reduce pore size on the face. “Shiseido is the leader in whitening —it’s a category we have been in since 1917 and one that has only gained popularity in the U.S.,”said Manheimer. Sku’s in the line range from $30 to $115; they are carried in about 250 U.S. de-partment and specialty store doors, although that number will rise to 400 this spring.

Of the new toner, Manheimer noted that it is intended to be used after cleansing and moisturiz-ing, and “seals the deal” by locking in moisture to the skin. Ingredients include witch hazel ex-tract and menthol, as well as the brand’s Spot Deacti-Complex, said Yamagishi-Dressler. A nation-al print ad spotlighting the White Lucent brand as a whole will break in April fashion, beauty andlifestyle magazines, and about 50,000 samples will be distributed at counter.

Color creator Tom Pécheux also has devised six new eye shadow colors in shades such asgranite and gold. They will be sold, beginning in February, as contrasting duos retailing for $27.The formula, intended to be long-wearing, contains such ingredients as 3-D powder and Hydro-Wrap Vitalizing DE, a proprietary ingredient said to moisturize eyelids and allow color to stayon longer.

— Julie Naughton

Shiseido Turns to Hair ProductTo Cultivate Its Profit Growth

e for LateYule

Shiseido’s new Benefiance neck cream.

NEW YORK — The mass market holiday rush started early, thanks to price-slashingdiscounts on high-ticket items, such as DVD players and computers, which steeredconsumers straight to the electronics department. While there’s a danger that thestampede will stop short of the beauty department, some retailers are hoping for aruboff effect that will benefit cosmetics.

One industry observer who thinks that any traffic swell will bode well for beautyis Carrie Bonner Mellage, industry manager for Kline & Co. She asserted that massretailers are off to a strong start, getting more aggressiveearlier to beat last year’s results.

Early promotions managed to bolster retail sales.The National Retail Federation reported Novembersales increased 6.7 percent in health and personal carestores from November 2004, and 7.1 percent in generalmerchandise stores. NRF expects total holiday sales,which includes the period of November throughDecember, to rise 6 percent to $438.5 billion.

In terms of beauty sales, retailers expect this holi-day’s results to be flat with 2004 sales. However, sincemany bought for a flat year, retail buyers expect acleaner sell-through. One downside of 2005, however,has been consumer interest in holding out for bargains,which dig into overall profits of holiday merchandise.

Although board members of the National Associationof Chain Drug Stores met last week to discuss pharmacyissues, during session breaks, many chatted about theholiday season.

“The hallway chatter is that it is a robust selling sea-son,” said Anthony Civello, chairman, president andchief executive officer of Kerr Drug Inc., and chairmanof NACDS. He continued: “Black Friday was good, butwe all made every effort to make it so, such as openingearlier and offering hot specials….We are also doingwell with gift cards. When I hear we are out of stock al-ready, I know we are having a lot of movement. It is goodto hear since we had been worried with all the talk ofthe gas crisis,” he said during a press briefing.

Mark Griffin, president and ceo of Lewis Drugs, saidhis chain has seen sales strength since Black Friday, aswell. He commented that the nearly 10 inches of snow blan-keting South Dakota, where Lewis stores are located, havespiked holiday spirit.

Still, many of the beauty sales in the mass market still are transacted in the wan-ing days before Christmas, and this year, Hanukkah, which begins on the heels ofChristmas. However, true-to-form, Wal-Mart got in the game early and very aggres-sively, influencing the whole season, said Griffin.

He added that in Lewis’ stores, Adidas men’s fragrances and Stetson gift sets,such as Shania by Stetson and Stetson Black fronted by Matthew McConaughey, areoff to a robust start. Mary-kateandashley scentsand imported gift sets, sold at steep discounts,are expected to appeal to Lewis’ younger shop-pers, while prestige offerings like CliniqueHappy and Davidoff Cool Water will likely appealto adult consumers, said Griffin.

That last-minute rush in the mass channel iswhy Jim Koeppl, the newly minted president ofMarkwins North America, said it is still too earlyto predict the strength of the holiday 2005 season.“We do think we are pretty much on target and weare seeing good movement with items like Bratz,”he said of the children’s beauty line.

Retailers, as usual, said Markwins is one of thedrivers of their holiday sales. One buyer said shebought a closeout item from Markwins that is sell-ing like “hot cakes” because it is a good deal.“Everyone is waiting for the deals and they will bestarting this week,” she added.

Another retailer agreed that the last-minute pushis vital for the mass market. However, she has seenmomentum in men’s fragrance with AXE. Also, as ex-pected by many buyers, Curious by Britney Spears is the biggest gift a chain couldever want for Christmas. “It is doing well and pulling fragrance up in general,” saidone source.

Kathy Steirly, the divisional manager for Walgreens, said her chain continues tobenefit from its strong heritage in fragrances. “We have excellent beauty consult-ants and they are always important for our fragrance sales,” she said. Steirly addedthat value gift sets are moving well at Walgreens along with the celebrity scents.But it isn’t all about fragrances at Walgreens. “We are also doing well with colorand our exclusive brand IsaDora, which is now in line and performing very well.”

Coty Beauty, which expects its Stetson fragrances and The Healing GardenOrganics franchise to fuel brisk sales this season, is collaborating with mass retail-ers to spiff up their departments. “We have worked with retailers to create beauti-ful, high-impact displays, which show off our brands and celebrity stars with pres-tige-quality imagery,” said John Galantic, president of Coty Beauty U.S.

The company anticipates its sell-through to be ahead of last year, due to its“strong launch pipeline and major advertising investment,” noted Galantic.

He added that diverted prestige fragrance gift sets and Asian imports in thebath category present a challenge again this year for branded manufacturers.

Galantic said that both Calgon and The Healing Garden’s holiday sales are off to afast start and ahead of last year’s sales, confirming that consumers prefer national-ly branded product.

He added that innovation, such as The Healing Garden Organics Wild Honey,backed by national advertising, stimulates category sales and gives the consumer abrand they can repurchase on a regular basis.

Griffin of Lewis Drugs said the consumer is looking for both no-name importsand branded gift sets. In his view the imports cater tovalue shoppers, while brand names reinforce a retailers’own brand equity.

Several electronic retailers, such as Drugstore.-com/Beauty.com, QVC and Amazon.com, are looking to

cap off a successful year with an equally robust holidayseason.

“This has been a great year for us overall, particu-larly in beauty and home accessories,” said SarahMunson, general manager of both Drugstore.com andBeauty.com.

A pre-holiday survey conducted by the e-tailer of1,000 consumers nationwide revealed that “skin carefor a flawless complexion” ranked number one onwish lists. Reflecting that survey finding, one ofBeauty.com’s bestsellers is Clarisonic Skin Care

Brush, an accessory designed to deep clean and unclogpores.

“It’s more effective than a wash cloth,” said Munson,adding the $195 item is also gentler than microdermabra-sion. In terms of holiday collections, Fresh’s Memoirs of aGeisha gift sets are selling briskly.

QVC had a stellar year, as well, attracting more pres-tige brands to its mix and launching exclusives such asMally Beauty.

“QVC had a great year in beauty and that is certainlythe case this holiday season,” said Allen Burke, directorof beauty and cosmetics for QVC. “For us, it’s the brandsthat have been doing great all year long that are having anexceptional holiday season.” Several of those brands in-clude Bare Escentuals and Philosophy, which on Dec. 4

aired QVC’s most successfully beauty show in history.Unlike its bricks-and-mortar competitors, QVC wraps up its

holiday selling season by Dec. 18, which is the last day it can guarantee delivery byChristmas. This year, QVC shifted some beauty air time from October to November,to make more of an impact, which proved to be a good move, noted Burke. It alsoran ads for QVC on other cable channels and, for the first time, this fall mailed outa catalogue to a select group of its beauty customers.

Amazon.com’s holiday sales have so far been spurred by Oprah Winfrey’s “fa-vorite things” episode, which aired the Monday before Thanksgiving, featuring

beauty items such as Lovely by Sara Jessica Parkerand Philosophy skin care. “We saw sales of themspike the day they aired,” said Maria Renz, the di-rector of Amazon.com’s Beauty and Health &Personal Care stores. “It’s just fascinating the con-nection and power she has with our audience.”For its part, Amazon is aiming to drive holidaysales by offering its online customers gift certifi-cates with purchases. Customers who spend $50get a $15 Amazon gift certificate; a $100 purchasergets a $30 gift certificate. Also selling well onAmazon’s beauty store during the Holiday season isZeno, the acne clearing device formerly only avail-able at the dermatologist’s office. It costs $225 anduses heat and light to zap away pimples in 24 hours.Britney Spears’ Fantasy is doing well, as is the“overall celebrity fragrance trend,” Renz said. Lipitems, such as Lip Fusion, the $36 lip plumper avail-able only at Sephora, are also popular. Pricy profes-sional hair tools, such as the T3 Tourmaline blowdryer are “taking off,” too.

In the midtier arena, The Estée Lauder Cos.’BeautyBank brands are in the midst of their first full-fledged holiday program atKohl’s Department Stores. BeautyBank has rolled out four brands to more than 600Kohl’s stores, and this fall added gift sets to the mix, said BeautyBank presidentJane Hudis. The gift sets range in price from $12 to $45 each and include three ofits four brands, namely American Beauty, Flirt and Grassroots.

Hudis reported that American Beauty’s Wonderful fragrance is doing “excep-tional.” So much so that BeautyBank created a Wonderful gift set, which includes a1.7-oz. perfume spray and a 3.4-oz body lotion for $45. Hudis said Kohl’s is support-ing its new beauty brands through its store circulars, with in-store signage and bycreating table-top displays.

“The Kohl’s consumer is still in the process of discovering beauty,” said Hudis. This coming week will be pivotal for mass retailers, which will aim to take ad-

vantage of a flurry of last-minute holiday shopping. “There does seem to be some life in the fragrance department,” noted Wendy

Liebmann, president of WSL Strategic Retail. “But most retailers are still holdingtheir breath.”

— Molly Prior and Faye Brookman, with contributions from Andrea Nagel

Mass Retailers Bet on Last-Minute RushThe Beauty Report WWD.COM

WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 20058

The Healing Garden Relax Therapy kit.

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By Andrea Nagel

NEW YORK — Clairol executives acknowledge that accelerating the pace of innova-tion in the hair color category will ensure sales growth next year. That was the com-pany’s aim in 2005 with the introduction of Nice ’n Easy Root Touch Up, along withnew conditioning technology on the Nice ’n Easy and Herbal Essences hair colorbrands, additions they said helped propel category sales to its current 3 percentgain over last year.

For 2006, the division of Procter & Gamble plans to maintain its product launchpace by continuing to address consumers’ unmet hair color needs, which will bedemonstrated with innovations designed to touch all four of its core brands: Nice ’nEasy, Natural Instincts, Hydrience and Herbal Essences.

“The category over the past three months endingNovember is up 3 percent,” said Patrice Louvet, generalmanager of P&G Global Retail Haircolor. “At least it is notdeclining anymore like it was last year.”

Louvet added that Clairol’s new items are growing sales. “We are driving growth with Root Touch Up by getting

salon users into the category. The way we think about it iswe really want to convert hair color from a chore to a fre-quent delight. That is our vision for this category and wewant Clairol to lead that transformation.”

Retailers are open to any new launches in hair color,which they unanimously agree is what drives the category.

One regional drugstore buyer said he is looking for-ward to Clairol’s new lineup, which lands on shelves inMarch, specifically Natural Instincts Shine Happy, a color-less hair treatment to revive shine, and Hydrience’s baserestage, which takes packaging to a more beauty image, andimplements Pantene Pro-V technology within the three-stepcolor system. The buyer added that Clairol discontinuedUltress and is supporting retailers with “markdown funds tohelp get it out of the store since [P&G] is not taking it back.”

Within the Nice ’n Easy franchise — the third best-selling hair color brand withsales of $88.7 million, according to Information Resources Inc., excluding Wal-Mart— are several new items, not just for the company, but for the industry. Nice 'n Easyhas developed the first Color Boosting Glaze designed to deposit color in betweencolor jobs. The glaze, which is available in seven shades, is meant to be used at thefirst sign of color fading or for an extra color and shine boost. It will be merchan-dised in the hair color aisle. It is different than other glazes on the market in that itis a one-time use product that deposits color immediatley, not over time. The five-minute, ammonia-free formula is meant for colored, as well as natural, hair. Whilethe glaze will not cover gray and is not recommended on highlighted manes, formu-las are designed to be gentle with aloe vera, jojoba oil and vitamin E. The glaze

lasts up to six shampoos and will cost $7.99. Also within Nice ’n Easy is GraySolution, a collection of 10 shades targeting stubborn grays and those with morethan 50 percent gray hair. A pretreatment in the box preps hair for color coverage,while ColorSeal Conditioning technology aims to lock in color. Gray Solution willretail for $8.99. Nice ’n Easy Root Touch Up, which has garnered nearly $19 millionin sales this year, excluding Wal-Mart, sports a new textured and curved brush, andfour shades have been added to the range. Root Touch Up retails for $6.99. All Nice’n Easy products will receive new packaging to help consumers better find theirshade and tone. And, a weekly Conditioning Gloss is included in boxes to help keep

hair smooth, shiny and manageable. Natural Instincts, the firm’s semipermanent color brand that grew

almost 9 percent this year, has undergone a base restage with newconditioning technology and 30 percent more damage protection.Natural Instincts sales in 2006 could continue to grow with the intro-duction of Shine Happy, a colorless hair treatment Clairol likens to ashampoo, to revive dull hair color. Shine Happy includes a weeklyColor Conditioning Treatment and will retail for $7.99. “We think itwill bring something fresh and new to the market,” said Louvet.

Hydrience, which realized nearly 9 percent sales decreas-es this year, according to IRI, is getting a total makeover.

“On Hydrience, we are reinventing the brand, frankly,with new packaging, new concept, new products and newmarketing support,” Louvet said. And in another move,P&G is marrying existing technology with one of its sisterbrands: Hydrience’s three-step moisturizing color systemutilizes Pantene Pro-V technology in its one-minute pre-treatment, to prep hair for color. Following the color step, aPantene Pro-V Moisturizing After Color Therapy treatmentis applied to lock in color. A six-week supply of this treat-ment is included in boxes, which retails for $8.99.

Herbal Essences, Clairol’s youngest hair color brand, istargeting its twentysomething customer with cheeky

mantras to express the experimentation factor in its newestproducts. For example, ColorFlirt Mousse is being marketed as “color you can datebut don’t have to marry.” The mousse, which colors hair in just minutes, lasts up to12 shampoos and does not contain ammonia or peroxide. Available in six shades, itwill retail for $5.99. Three Herbal Essences Highlights kits hit shelves in June, com-plete with a dual-chambered comb to make crafting highlights easier, especiallyfrom root to tip. Each kit retails for $3.99.

Louvet is expecting to see growth “across the portfolio” because of these latestefforts, especially within Nice ’n Easy, which he said is “growing at a very highpace, clearly more than double digits. We expect that to continue for next year be-cause of the Color Boosting Glaze and Gray Solutions and because of the continuedpush on Root Touch Up, which is expanding into a wider choice of shades.”

The Beauty Report

By Molly Prior

NEW YORK — A year into its sprawl across the U.S.,Rimmel London plans to shake up the beauty estab-lishment and become the number-two cosmeticsbrand in the mass channel.

It’s a feat the Coty-owned brand has already achievedin Europe, where it is second only to Maybelline NewYork. And it’s a mission, Coty executives say, that Rimmelexpects to complete within the next several years.

Rimmel already ranks within the top-five cosmet-ics brands at Wal-Mart, noted Rick Goldberg, vicepresident of color cosmetics for Coty Beauty U.S.

Since expanding beyond Wal-Mart, where it madeits U.S. debut in 2000, Rimmel has set up shop in 1,300doors — ranging from regional drugstores such asLongs Drug Stores and national chains, like Target.

This spring, Rimmel will be rolled out to Kmartdoors as well. “The goal is to add a major retailer [toits distribution] each season,” said Goldberg.

Over the last four years, Rimmel’s U.S. sales havequadrupled, growing from $25 million in 2001 to $100million this year. Its global sales are growing at a fastclip as well, increasing from $199 million in 2001 tomore than $300 million in 2005. Rimmel’s continualgrowth spurt makes it the fastest growing brand inthe entire Coty Inc. portfolio.

At a time when the leaders in the category are all try-ing to expand their reach with new products, and in sev-eral cases, new lines, Rimmel executives assert that theirbrand can carve out a viable point of difference for retail-ers through its edgy, “made in the U.K.” positioning.

“We want to stay the style leader,” said Goldberg.Stephen Mormoris, senior vice president, global

marketing for Coty Beauty agreed, adding, “Rimmelis certainly an important catalyst for creativity in the

mass market. It captures trends in a way that noother mass brand does.”

To keep its image as a hip, London brand — frontedby supermodel/Brit Kate Moss — Rimmel will roll outa new display wall this spring. The display heralds thebrand’s British heritage with photographs of London’squintessential red phone booth and double-deckerbus, offset by black display headers.

Rimmel’s lip portfolio gets top billing on thedisplay, running across the length of the fixtureat eye level. The placement was prompted bythe success of Volume Boost lip color, whichwas launched this fall, said Goldberg. The wallwill also spotlight Rimmel’s spring launches,which include Vinyl Jelly Gloss Liner, VolumeFlash Mascara and Recover IlluminatingAnti-Fatigue Foundation.

Rimmel created the Vinyl Jelly Gloss Linerto blend seamlessly with its range of lip gloss-es. The gel-based liner will be available innine shades for $4.25 each.

Volume Flash Mascara,available in black, brown andblue shades for $6.68 each, adapt-ed its technology from Rimmel’s Volum’ EyesComb Mascara. However, it is applied with afour-cut brush applicator. Its formula is de-signed to fuse wax with polymers to delivermore product to the lashes, explained Goldberg.

The standout product of the line is RecoverIlluminating Anti-Fatigue Foundation. The facemakeup leverages antiaging technology and adapts itfor young women to create the antifatigue formula,explained Goldberg. The formula relies on brighten-ing ingredients, such as pearlized elements and lightdiffusers, along with vitamins C and E. Recover will

be available in six shades for $8.03 each, slightlyhigher than Rimmel’s average value price point.

The products will bow in February, with TV adssupporting both Volume Flash Mascara and Recoverbeginning in January. Print ads will break inFebruary books. After relying on print ads and its

Rimmel double-decker bus tour to buildawareness in the U.S., Rimmel launchedits first television ad campaign inJanuary. “As we expand, we hope to con-tinue to reinvest in growth through ourad support,” said Goldberg.

The display wall and advertising im-ages feature Moss, who has been aspokesmodel for the brand for five years.Despite her recent troubles with drugsand the media storm that followed,Rimmel executives say they never consid-ered dropping the model. “Kate Moss em-bodies the authentic underground Londonlook,” said Mormoris, who added Moss hascontributed personal insights to Rimmel’smarketing efforts. “Londoners and those

throughout the U.K. are very sympatheticto her personal issues.”

As for how U.S. con-sumers view the fashion

icon, Coty’s corporate communications direc-tor Hitesh Patel said: “Clearly, she’s showing self-disci-pline,” referring to her rehabilitation. “She’s only shownher commitment and professionalism to Rimmel.”

With a celebrity spokesmodel and steady productpipeline from London in place, Rimmel has its sightson new markets, such as Asia. “This is a brand thattranscends borders,” said Patel. “Its cool, urban cul-ture fits many markets.”

Rimmel’s Edgy London Vibe Powers Global Expansion

Clairol Taps Shine to Grow ’06 Sales

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Rimmel London’s

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Clairol’s 2006 hair color lineup.

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The HBA Report WWD.COM

NEW YORK — The Art of Shaving is embarking on anaggressive freestanding store-opening plan whilelaunching its most sophisticated treatmentproduct to date, a night cream designed toremedy ingrown hairs.

Eric Malka, a cofounder of the $25 mil-lion firm, began outlining retail expansionplans around the time The Art of Shavingopened a shop in Time Warner Center herenearly two years ago.

Now, the company, which operates eightstores, plans to open its 50th unit by 2008.

Plans call for 10 openings next year to befollowed by 21 more stores in 2007, at a rateof about two a month, and an additional 11 units in 2008.

The company has begun by opening three stores, inLos Angeles, Atlanta and atthe Roosevelt Field Mall inGarden City, N.Y., this fall.Next year, the firm plans toopen stores in confirmed loca-tions like Denver, Dallas,Atlantic City, N.J., and SanFrancisco. Still in negotiationsare leases for locations inBoston, Houston, Boca Raton,Fla., and San Antonio.

The company operatesstores with and without barberservices; the retail-only storeswill account for about 70 per-cent of company-owned stores.About 65 percent of the firm’srevenues are generated by its

wholesale business, a ratio Malka would like tosee at about 50-50 by next year.

Thanks to the freestanding storestrategy, Malka said he believes thebusiness can be grown by 80 to 90percent next year.

Meanwhile, Ingrown Hair NightCream will be launched in lateJanuary and then rolled out to thebrand’s full distribution network of600 doors by March, including retail-ers like Barneys New York, NeimanMarcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nord-strom and Bloomingdale’s.

“There are 10 million men in the U.S. thatsuffer from ingrown hairs,” said Malka. “They

are frustrated that there are few to no solu-tions out there for them.”

The formulation employs meadowseedextract and white willow bark, which con-tains naturally occurring salicilin to helpheal ingrown hairs. In order to soften andmoisturize the skin, the product usesAfrican shea butter and jojoba oil. The re-sults of a clinical study indicate there was a92.6 percent reduction in the appearance ofingrown hairs after six weeks of using theproduct. A 58.8 percent reduction was seenafter two weeks.

The 1.7-oz. cream is priced at $40 andcould do first-year retail sales of $1.3 million.

— Matthew W. Evans

NEW YORK — The spirit ofgiving filled the ballroom atthe Waldorf-Astoria Tuesday,as beauty executives gatheredto raise funds for Cancer andCareers at Cosmetic ExecutiveWomen Foundation’s HolidayLuncheon and Auction.

The event also recognizedL’Oréal Paris for its work withthe Ovarian Cancer ResearchFund. L’Oréal Paris presidentand general manager CarolHamilton accepted the honor,telling the crowd of more than1,000 that L’Oréal became in-volved with the OCRF eightyears ago through Liz Tilberis,the former publisher of Har-per’s Bazaar who served aspresident of the organizationuntil she lost her battle withthe disease in 1999.

Since it joined the OCRF’smission, L’Oréal Paris hasraised $10 million for thecause. Because of researchfunded by the organization, forwomen diagnosed with ovari-an cancer, the prognosis haschanged from a “death sen-tence to a chronic illness,”said Hamilton, adding L’Oréalwill continue its efforts on theOCRF’s behalf until all womenwith the disease are cured.

The auction, cohosted byWNBC anchor Jane Hanson,raised nearly $50,000 forCareers and Cancer.

The Art of Shaving Begins Retail Push

CEW Raises $50KFor Cancer Support

Ingrown Hair

Night Cream

PHOT

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ACOB

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L’Oréal’s Carol Hamilton and

CEW’s Carlotta Jacobson.

WISHING OUR RETAIL PARTNERS HAPPY HOLIDAYS AND GOD’S BLESSINGS FROM THE INTERMARK USA TEAM.Directed Produced Executive Screenplay Special Effects Sound Color Makeup

by: STEVEN FLATBERG by: ALOTTA EFFORT Producer: GRANT BERRY by: LIN E. SEAL by: PLASTIQUE by: TIM E. LESS By: INNOVATION by: STYLI-STYLENOW SHOWING IN A LOCATION NEAR YOU. Rated U for “Unbelievable.”

W E ’ R E O N A S P E C I A L M I S S I O N … S T Y L I - S T Y L E

By Sara James

NEW YORK — Think you’ve gotten tired of the same six faces on the cov-ers of the weekly tabloids? Well, guess what: they’ve taken over themonthlies, too.

In the third installment of WWD’s recurring media feature, we look atthe women who dominated newsstands in 2005. (The totals below are basedon the major women’s monthlies and teen magazines, and the two men’smagazines that have the most crossover with them, Esquire and GQ.)

So who grabbed the most monthly magazine covers this year? Formerteen queen Lindsay Lohan was on a major monthly every single monththrough August, except for May. Her total was seven, including Elle andW, making her the Jessica Simpson of 2005. (Simpson had eight coverslast year.)

Few women over the age of 30 made this year’s list — but no one canclaim it’s because women who have left their 20s behind can no longer doteen magazines. Cameron Diaz and Jennifer Lopez, both on the list, wereon the covers of Seventeen and Cosmogirl, respectively, this year. One whodidn’t make the cut was Jennifer Aniston, who avoided doing magazineinterviews until the end of 2005 and had only three covers, the same num-ber as model Kate Moss.

As for the trend toward giving covers to people who are simply famousfor being famous, it might turn out to be a smart move for the monthlies.Teen Vogue’s bestseller of the year was Nicole Richie, according to aspokeswoman for the magazine.

— With contributions from Rachelle Robinett

SEVEN COVERS IN 2005Lindsay Lohan (Jane, Cosmogirl, Ellegirl, W, Elle, Teen Vogue, Teen People).Last year: two.

SIX COVERS Jessica Alba (Cosmopolitan, GQ, Self, Marie Claire, Seventeen, Jane). Last year: none.Mischa Barton (Marie Claire, Teen People, Allure, Glamour, Cosmogirl,Ellegirl). Last year: six.Jessica Simpson (Cosmogirl, Cosmopolitan, Glamour, GQ, Elle, Seventeen,Teen People). Last year: eight.

FIVE COVERS Hilary Duff (Teen Vogue, Seventeen, Ellegirl, Jane, Cosmogirl). Last year: five.Scarlett Johansson (Harper’s Bazaar, Teen Vogue, Esquire, Allure,Cosmopolitan). Last year: two.Jennifer Lopez (Vogue, Cosmogirl, Cosmopolitan, Elle, Glamour). Last year: two.Ashlee Simpson (Allure, Cosmopolitan, Teen People, Cosmogirl, TeenPeople). Last year: one.

FOUR COVERS Rachel Bilson (Ellegirl, Teen Vogue, Lucky, Ellegirl). Last year: one.Cameron Diaz (Marie Claire, Cosmopolitan, GQ, Seventeen). Last year: one.Paris Hilton (Jane, Seventeen, Vanity Fair, Shop Etc.). Last year: one.Keira Knightley (Elle, Esquire, Marie Claire, Vogue). Last year: two.Nicole Richie (Cosmogirl, Teen Vogue, Jane, Seventeen). Last year: none.

Media/Advertising

12WWD.COM

WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2005

EYE ON JANN: It looks like Jann Wenner will get his shot atreality TV stardom. According to two Wenner Media sources,the Rolling Stone founder has signed a deal with MTV to starin an “Apprentice”-type reality show about aspiring musicjournalists. The New York Post reported in July that Wennerwas in early talks with the network, but the long silence sincethen made it seem as if the project was stalled. One sourcesaid the show will begin production in the spring, with plansto air it next fall. A Wenner Media spokesman declined tocomment Thursday, and an MTV spokesman did not returncalls. — Jeff Bercovici

LIVING ON: Budget Living is on the block. OK, so that’s notexactly news. (To date, Meredith, Hachette Filipacchi,American Media, Rodale, Hearst and Newsweek — which

previously bought Budget Travel from Budget Living founderDon Welsh — are said to have all looked at the title andpassed.) But now Welsh seems to be becoming a moremotivated seller, according to sources with ties to BudgetLiving. The magazine did not return calls for comment.Meanwhile, staff turnover continues to be an issue for thetitle, which just went monthly this fall. Photo director GregGarry is leaving for a job at Weekend, and Real Simple hashired away Budget Living’s art director Sung Choi and itsdeputy editor, Alexa Yablonski, a Time Inc. spokeswomanconfirmed. — Sara James

NO SIGNAL: If the news that Radar magazine was folding afterjust three issues came as a surprise, it was largely because ithad been widely reported that Mort Zuckerman had pledged$25 million in funding. How, media watchers wondered, coulda small start-up have burned through so much money so fast?

Easy: They never had it to begin with. “The agreementspecifically limited the financing to $10 million,” saidZuckerman Thursday, a day after Radar’s staff found out

about the shutdown. “I don’t know where that [$25 millionfigure] came from.”

In fact, Zuckerman said he will have spent a total of $12million by the time he is through with Radar, and would havebeen prepared to spend more had the prospects seemedbrighter, particularly on the ad front. “The issue was we couldnot foresee the proverbial light at the end of the tunnel,”Zuckerman said.

Of course, some might say he wasn’t looking hard enough.“Mort always gets cold feet,” said one longtime associate. “Heshould have gotten New York magazine, but he’s so obsessedwith reducing his downside risk that he lost it.” (The sourcewas referring to the 2003 auction in which Bruce Wassersteinended up outbidding a consortium led by Zuckerman.)

The New York Daily News owner is apparently less aversein his recreational pursuits. As Radar’s staff collectsseverance and starts looking for other jobs, Zuckerman isheading off on a ski vacation — despite having broken hiscollarbone twice in falls. He blamed the spills on whiteoutconditions, saying, “I am a good skier.” — J.B.

MEMO PAD

The Overexposure Index:

Covers Edition

14 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2005

By Evan Clark

WASHINGTON — Retail prices forwomen’s apparel rose a seasonallyadjusted 1.6 percent in November,but were still 1.5 percent belowyear-ago levels, according to theLabor Department’s ConsumerPrice Index, released Thursday.

In the broader economy, re-treating energy prices led to a0.6 percent drop in retail pricesfor all goods and services lastmonth, the sharpest declinesince 1949. Excluding energyand food items, a closelywatched measure of inflation,prices inched up 0.2 percent.

Carl Steidtmann, chief econ-omist at Deloitte Research, saidthat, while the overall economyis “pretty strong,” there is aslate of issues that might holdback the consumer over thecoming months. These include arise in energy prices, increasingdebt levels and changes in cred-it card laws requiring higherminimum payments.

“Probably the biggest un-known and the one that can haveat least the biggest short-term im-pact is energy prices,” he said.

Ken Goldstein, an economist at

the Conference Board, agreed con-sumers could tighten up, especial-ly as they’re paying more not onlyto heat their homes but also to filltheir carts at the grocery store.

“Don’t expect the consumerto be out there spending a wholelot of money in January,February or March on anythingbut keeping the house warm,”said Goldstein. “Don’t expect allthose women to be running intostores to buy clothing…it’s notgoing to be that great a season.”

Apparel prices have beentrending down for some timeand are lower in absolute termsthan they were a decade ago,said Goldstein.

“It’s a bargain to begin withand if you have to discount abargain, what’s that telling youabout the market for appareloverall?” he said.

The steepest price decreaseswithin the women’s apparel cate-gory came in outerwear, whichsaw a 1.4 percent drop inNovember and a 3.9 percent de-crease against a year ago. Suitsand separate prices were on theupswing for the month, rising 2.3percent, though that level was still3.1 percent below a year earlier.

Apparel Prices Rise in Nov.By Luisa Zargani

MILAN — A new five-year license with Italy’sCiwifurs will provide Roberto Cavalli with afull-fledged fur collection under the design-er’s signature brand, starting with the pre-fall 2006 season.

The collection, which will be made up of 50designs, will be available in stores next June.Animal prints and flamboyant furs are corner-stones of Cavalli’s fashion and the expression ofhis passion for nature, which last year spurredhim to support the “Wild: Fashion Untamed” ex-hibition at New York’s Metropolitan Museum.

“This license will allow me to enrich myready-to-wear collection, which has alwaysbeen peppered with fur details and a few furpieces,” said Cavalli. “Furs are part of myworld and Ciwifurs’ technique and technologyare uniquely superior. I think Ciwifurs [chiefexecutive officer Gianni Castiglioni] was in-trigued by my style as the company experi-ments continuously to develop new designs.”

Cavalli said he is confident Ciwifurs willnever make his designs “banal or too over thetop.” Among the highlights, Cavalli mentioneda chinchilla fur printed with a tiger-skin ef-fect and a large selection of vests and stoles.

“Fur vests are a must for next fall,” he said. Cavalli’s furs had been produced in-house.“We believe the Roberto Cavalli brand

has still ample potential to develop interna-tionally,” said a Ciwifurs spokesman. “Itsstrong style and identity is a stimulatingchallenge for us.”

Ciwifurs also works with Fendi, Prada, JilSander, Valentino, Dior, Louis Vuitton andMarni. Both Cavalli and Ciwifurs declined toreveal sales projections for the new collection.

Cavalli Inks Fur Deal With Ciwifurs

By Vicki Rothrock

HONG KONG — U.S. TradeRepresentative Rob Portman onThursday offered some of theworld’s poorest countries addi-tional access to the Americanmarket in the areas of cotton,apparel and textiles as part ofan effort to push World TradeOrganization talks forward.

The moves gave apparel andtextile issues some time in thespotlight, but the larger free-trade agenda remained dead-locked over agriculture. The six-day talks of trade ministers is toend Sunday.

Portman said the U.S. waswilling to give cotton fromBenin, Mali, Burkina Faso andChad, collectively known as theC4 (Cotton 4 Countries), duty-free access. “We are hopeful tohave some kind of resolutionthis week,” he said.

The four West African nationsplayed a key role in the collapseof the last major WTO meeting inCancún, Mexico, two years ago.

A senior U.S. trade officialsaid the commitment would givethe West African nations accessto the U.S. market faster than abroader agreement.

Woods Eastland, chairman ofthe National Cotton Council, ex-pressed concern over the pro-posal since it is unclear if othermajor cotton-producing coun-tries, such as China and India,would respond in kind.

“This appears to be unilater-al action by the U.S. in what

should be multilateral negotia-tions,” Eastland said in a state-ment. “If improved market ac-cess for cotton produced in thetruly least developed countrieswill provide meaningful eco-nomic gains, then all cotton-im-porting countries should be ex-pected to match the reportedU.S. proposal.”

The European Commissionsaid the U.S. plan was a “step inthe right direction, but it is clearmore needs to be done.”

The EU and the U.S. havebeen at odds over how much thedeveloped world should cut do-mestic farm subsidies in thecurrent talks, known as theDoha Round.

The U.S. also has signaled awillingness to extend duty-freeand quota-free treatment togoods from the WTO’s 32 leastdeveloped countries, with someexceptions, such as apparel andtextiles from Bangladesh andCambodia.

“Last year, Bangladesh im-ports to the United States were$2.5 billion [in] textiles and ap-parel, that’s a 20 percent in-crease,” Portman said.

He added that not all of thosegoods from Bangladesh wouldnecessarily get duty-free access.

“In some of those cases, it’sgoing to be very, very difficult forme to make the argument whenobviously Bangladesh is incredi-bly competitive,” Portman said.

Bangladesh gets two-thirds ofall of its cotton fabric at subsi-dized rates from China and is,

therefore, able to undercutother countries that might havespecial relationships and pref-erential treatment from theU.S., said Auggie Tantillo, exec-utive director of the AmericanManufacturing Trade ActionCoalition.

Once a certain group is givenpreferential treatment, othersare going to expect it, as well, hesaid. “Eventually, people aregoing to say, ‘I’m not going to liveby some structured system madeby bureaucrats in Geneva.’”

Julia Hughes, vice presidentof international trade and gov-ernment relations for theUnited States Association ofImporters of Textiles andApparel, said it appearedPortman was excludingBangladesh and Cambodia fromdesignation as least developedcountries. There are very fewareas in which these countriesare competitive, she said,adding it would be “a real disap-pointment to say the LDCs aretoo successful to get aid.”

There also has been somemovement on efforts to strike upseparate negotiations to coverthe apparel and textiles sector.

Turkey’s state minister incharge of foreign trade and cus-toms, Kürsad Tüzmen, said hiscountry believes “a sectoral ap-proach leading to harmonizationof tariffs by all members would bethe most appropriate way to gen-erate new market opportunities.”

— With contributions fromEvan Clark, Washington

U.S. Makes Cotton ConcessionTo C4 Countries at Doha Talks

NEW YORK — The Estée LauderCos. is expected to announcetoday that Maureen Case, cur-rently president of the BobbiBrown Worldwide division, willbe named president of the LaMer and Jo Malone brands,while continuing to serve aspresident of Bobbi Brown.

This follows the announce-ment on Dec. 3 that LynneGreene, formerly president ofLauder’s specialty store group— which includes these brandsand Prescriptives — will takeover as president of Lauder’sClinique division in January.Case’s responsibilities will notinclude Prescriptives. The com-pany declined to say who wouldhead up Prescriptives, but saidan announcement is expectedearly next year.

Case will continue to reportto Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne,the group president at Lauderwho oversees these brands. Herappointment is effective Jan.1.

“Maureen Case is an excep-tional prestige brand builder andcreative thinker who truly under-stands the nuances of culturalvalues around the world,” statedBousquet-Chavanne. “Just as im-portant, she has a unique set ofinterpersonal skills that allowher to achieve results with a col-laborative style. Her strong rela-tionships with our retail partnersworldwide will allow her to cata-pult the brands to the next level.”

Case, a Lauder veteran,joined the company in 1975 as amember of the finance depart-ment and also served as region-al finance manager for the trav-el retail group before becomingexecutive director of marketing,travel retailing, for Estée

Lauder International in 1989.She was promoted to vice presi-dent of marketing for travel re-tailing in 1995. In 1996, she leftto become senior vice presidentand general merchandisingmanager for World Duty Free,the duty-free retailer. She re-turned to Lauder in 1999 as vicepresident and general managerof Bobbi Brown’s internationalbusiness before being namedgeneral manager of the brand inMarch 2002. She was namedpresident of Bobbi Brown inSeptember 2003.

Since taking over her role ashead of Bobbi Brown, Case hasidentified and implementednew channels of distribution forthe brand, including the brand’srecent entry into China.

“I’m honored and thrilledabout these brands — they'reone of a kind,” Case stated. “Ifeel we’ve just scratched thesurface of their full potential.”

— Julie Naughton

Lauder’s Case Tapped to HeadLa Mer and Jo Malone Brands

WWD.COM

Maureen Case

15WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2005

Purchasing AgentCarol’s Daughter is seeking a highlymotivated individual with 1 - 5 yearspurchasing experience in the cosmetics /packaging & beauty field, preferablywith a college degree. The ideal candidateshould have great inter-personal andcommunication skills. Please Fax orE-mail all resumes (as a MicrosoftWord attachment) to Alix Baudin at:718-857-1910 / hr@carolsdaughter.com

57th St. - Full Floor - 3000 ft.Soho Penthouse live / work skylightsBryant Park Duplex - All Great DealsPrime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043

For Space in Garment Center

Helmsley-Spear, Inc.212-880-0414

Showrooms & LoftsBWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS

Great ’New’ Office Space AvailADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500

39th Street & B’way, 1600 sq/ft +/- 3 Offices, Showroom, ReceptionistArea w/ furniture, 4 large closets.

1-2 yr. sub-lease w/elevator.Fax inquiry to (212) 921-0541

PATTERNS, SAMPLES,PRODUCTIONS

All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service.Call Sherry 212-719-0622.

PATTERNS, SAMPLES,PRODUCTIONS

Full service shop to the trade.Fine fast work. 212-869-2699.

SAMPLE SALERandi Rahm,

Red Carpet Designer to the Stars!Up to 75% off !

To be a star, you must dress like a star!Walk-ins welcome or Schedule an

appointment to get priority treatment!Friday, December 16, 2005 10am- 5pmMonday, December 19, 2005 10am - 5pm

Call: 212-869-2296

Admin Since 1967

W-I-N-S-T-O-NAPPAREL STAFFING

DESIGN * SALES * MERCHADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION

(212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437

Designer AssistantDesigner collection seeks creative,detail oriented team player to assistEvening designer in all aspects of linedevelopment. Computer literacy is amust.

Please fax resume at: 212 563 6215

Designer

BETTER SPORTSWEARFast paced womens sportswear co. lookingfor creative designer at least 4 yrs exp,organized, self starter & detail oriented.Candidate needs to be able to managedesign staff and a team player.

Pls fax resume - att: sc 212 768 7651

Order Entry/InvoicingApparel manufacturer seeks orderentry and invoicing individual. 2 yearsindustry experience required.

Fax resume to: (212) 382-3623

Prod PatternmakerAnna Sui

5+ yrs. Skilled in draping, fitting, tech.accuracy from sample to productionprototype.

Fax res and sal req to (212)768-3051

Production CoordinatorApparel mfg seeks Coord fluent inTurkish/English. Send resume only:SGA (USA) Inc., 570 7 Ave #2100, NY,NY 10018

Production /Merchandising

Leading tween cosmetics companyseeks a Production Manager with aminimum of two years experience toact as liaison w/ design/sales/factories.Other responsibilities include ordertracking and coordination overseasimport/export. The ideal candidate willbe a team player, w/strong organiza-tional and follow up skills. We offer agreat work environment with excellentopportunities for growth.

Please e-mail resume to:helpwanted@compuserve.com

LADIES ASSISTANTTECHNICAL DESIGNERLeading ladies outerwearco. looking for highly organ-ized and detailed individualw/1-3 years exp. in techni-cal design. Must have greatverbal and written communi-cation skills. Exp w/ prepar-ing tech. packs to overseasfactories + pre-productionfittings.

Ladies AssociateDesigner

Designer outerwear co.seeking design assistant w/2-4 yrs exp. Must be highlyorganized, detailed, able toprovide technical sketches &specs to overseas factories.Must be MAC literate.Please e-mail all resumes to:designhr@andrewmarc.com

Production Person KnitsExp’d person needed for domestic/import knit co. Resp. include: Produc-tion orders, fabric and trim sourcingand purchasing; production cut & sewtracking, lab dip approvals, mainte-nance of cost sheets, all pre-production& follow-up till delivery. Fax resume to:

212-382-2549

Retail Management

Lester’sJr/Contemporary Dept. Mgr.

Do you ’get’ the trendy Jr/Contemp re-tail bus? Do you have at least 2 yrsexp.in Retail Mgmt? We’re seeking anindividual for our Roslyn location whoexcels in cust service, sales, m’dsing,and ops and is excited and enthusias-tic about this business. Join a greatworking environment, with growthoppt’y, top salary, benefits, & incentiveplan. email us atmerylk@lestersclothing.com fax to718-627-3974

Sales AssistantSTEVEN ALAN SHOWROOMEst’d. designers representative seeks SalesAssistant for their Los Angeles location.Excellent entry level position. PleaseFax resume to: 213-629-2644

Tech Designer Asst.Men’s & Women’s Contemporary Sports-wear Co. seeks a Tech Designer Asst. forN.Y. office. Minimum 3 years exp. req’d.Must be able to spec garments and haveknowledge of grading, fit, and garmentconstruction. Will approve/send out tech-packs/sewing instructions & follow-upw/overseas factories, etc. Fax or E-mail:212-819-1699 / aspirationinc@yahoo.com

A.B.Sby Allen Schwartz

A.B.S., a leader in contemporary/designercasual lifestyle clothing, has an incredible opportunity for an

aggressive, self-motivated Account Executive to join oursportswear sales team in New York. Established relation-ships with better contemporary/designer and Interna-

tional specialty stores a must.Excellent benefits, salary and commission.

All replies kept confidential.Email: Lsinger@absstyle.com

Established contemporary missy casualsportswear mfr seeks exp’d Sales Repwith established accounts in midtier /specialty stores & private label. Pleasefax resume 954.499.2260 or 954.499.1906.

Marithé + François Girbaud ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

Department Store SalesSeeking an experienced Account Exec-utive specializing in department storesales for its women’s young contempo-rary division. Ideal candidate musthave 5 - 10 years sales experience indesigner, contemporary or youngcontemporary. Premium denim salesexperience a plus. Strong backgroundin sales projections, gross margins andretail math. Must have a flair for mer-chandising, store assortments andgood sales presentation skills.

Please Fax or Email your resume to:LMacfarlane@ICISAACS.com or

Fax # 646-459-2633

Textile Design StudioSeeking Sales Reps • Must be experienced

SALARY + COMMISSIONCall or E-mail resumes to Sam at:

212-563-8046 / sam@theused.com

COUNTER MANAGERTracie Martyn Skincare

Position available for high-end skincareline that has a celebrity cult following.Experience in skincare sales a must;highly organized, great with people,and must have the ability to grow andbuild a business. Amazing opportunityto move a business to the next level, aswe are experiencing great success, andlooking to promote from within. To famil

-iarize yourself with our products andpress prior to application, please viewour website at: www.traciemartyn.comREQUIREMENTS:•Skincare sales experience•Energy and Enthusiasm•Available full-time•Managerial skills•Also hiring for other positions with great opportunity

Please contact Dawn Cukierwar at:59 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10003

Tel: 212-206-7315 / Fax: 212-206-8399E-mail: dawn@traciemartyn.com

Broker/Sales RepSeeking representation for a US fullyintegrated designer, marketer and distrib-utor of high quality cosmetic brushes atprestige cosmetic accounts in N.Y.C.Please E-mail your qualifications to:humanresources@ divdist.com

It’s all about who you DON’T know.

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