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Agatha by

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Spread your butterfly wings in the Agatha. This romantic dress has everything going for it with its fluttery sleeves, an empire waist, and an elegant fanned circle skirt with hidden side seam

pockets. Your décolleté gets the attention it deserves thanks to the high waistband, gathered top and deep V-neck. Feel l ike it's a bit too much of a good thing? Just throw on a tank top or

bikini top underneath. You could also sl ightly overlap the top pieces. Either way, it’s time to roll out the red carpet because

you're sure to be the star of the show in this dress!

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Agatha by

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finished garment measurements (in inches)

size 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26

length 42.8 43 43.2 43.4 43.6 43.9 44.9 45.1 46.6 46.9 47.2 47.5 47.8 48.2

sleeve length* 13.8 14.1 14.3 14.6 14.8 15.1 15.4 15.6 16.6 16.9 17.2 17.4 17.7 18

waistline measurement** 26.3 27.1 27.9 29.5 31 32.6 33.4 35 37.5 40.1 42.6 45.2 47.8 50.3

hips 51.6 52.3 53 54.4 55.8 57.2 57.9 59.3 61.6 63.9 66.2 68.5 70.8 73.1

* Including the shoulder length.** This is the measurement just under the bustline.

IMPORTANT The amount of fabric used may change based on the alterations.

Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or the sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces at the indicated double lines. Then either increase the distance between the cut pieces by the desired amount (to lengthen) or overlap the pieces (to shorten). Make sure that the CF and CB lines and the side seams are always straight.

size chart (in inches)

H

W

B

shorten or lengthen the pattern here

These are the pattern measurements based on the used fabric type and serve as a reference. Ease has been added to the width measurements (on top of the exact body measurements) for a more comfortable fit. Agatha is designed to be fitted at the bust and looser around the hips. Depending on the preferred cut, you could possibly go a size smaller or larger.

size 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26

body height 5’24" 5’38" 5’45" 5’48" 5’51" 5’54" 5’58" 5’61" 5’64" 5’64" 5’64" 5’64" 5’64" 5’64"

B (bust) 29.9 31.5 33.1 34.6 36.2 37.8 39.4 40.9 43.3 45.7 48 50.4 52.8 55.1

W (waist) 26 26.8 27.6 29.1 30.7 32.3 33.1 34.6 37.2 39.8 42.3 44.9 47.4 50

H (hip) 33.9 35.4 37 38.2 39.4 40.6 41.7 42.9 45.3 47.2 49.2 51.2 53.1 55.1

Choose your size based on your bust measurement. If your waist and hip measurements are wider than those in the size chart, check the waist and hip measurements in the chart below to see if there’s enough room or whether the pattern needs to be altered. It's easy to do. Simply trace the line of the chosen waist and hip size at those points and blend the lines.

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supplies

• Thread

• Iron-on interfacing: max. 1/6 yd

• Fabric: see table

fabric advice The sewing instructions for Agatha are made with jersey fabric in mind. Woven fabric is an option too, as long as you insert an invisible zip in the side seam. Avoid fabrics that are too bulky or heavy because they won’t drape nicely.

fabric 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26

fabric width 43” yd 4 1/4 4 1/4 4 1/4 4 1/4 4 1/4 4 1/2 4 3/4 4 3/4 5 1/4 5 1/4 5 1/4 5 1/2 5 1/2 5 3/4fabric width 55” yd 3 1/2 3 3/4 3 3/4 3 3/4 3 3/4 4 4 4 1/4 4 1/2 4 1/2 4 1/2 4 3/4 4 3/4 5

The corresponding fabric layout can be found on page 6 of these sewing instructions.

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pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches)

To sew the garment as described in the instructions, you must draw the illustrated seam allowances around the paper pattern pieces before cutting them out. If you are using a pdf version of the pattern, you may print it with or without seam allowances. If you print with seam allowances, the solid lines denote the cutting lines, and dashed lines denote the stitch lines. Check out the video.

1. top front piece: 2x

2. top back piece: 1x on fabric fold

3. sleeve: 2x

4. waistband front: 2x on fabric fold

5. waistband back: 2x on fabric fold

6. skirt front: 1x

7. skirt back: 1x

8. pocket: 4x

9. facing back: 1x on fabric fold

⅜"⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜" ⅜

"

⅜"

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⅜"

⅜" ⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜" ⅜"

⅜"⅜" ⅜"

⅜"

⅜" ⅜

"⅜

"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

5 9

32

4

1

8

6=7

⅝"

⅝"

⅝"

00

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

IMPORTANT

The pieces highlighted in

light yellow have iron-on interfacing

attached to the wrong side.

material type

fabric

iron-on interfacing

IMPORTANT Pattern pieces 6 and 7 are the same pattern pieces.

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6=7 6=7

fabric layout – solid fabrics fabric width 43"

0 - 14FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

+

1

2445 5

8

8

9

3

SELVEDGE

6=7 6=7

16 - 26 FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

1

2 5

8

9

3

5 448

SELVEDGE

+

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1

24 45 5

8

9

3 8

fabric layout – solid fabrics fabric width 55"

marking pattern pieces

notch the pattern paper and fabric at the following points

single notch

double notch

V notch

mark the following points using marking thread

centre point

6=7 6=7

0 - 26 FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

+

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sewing instructions

The method used to finish sewing the garment depends on the fabric used. The pieces are always sewn together with the right

sides of the fabric facing together, unless stated otherwise.

1Pin and sew the neckline of the top back (2) and back facing (9) together.

F front

B back

CF centre front

CB centre back

right side

wrong side

iron-on interfacing

When sewing jersey, use a stretch stitch or overlock (4-threads).NOTE

2

9

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Snip into the seam allowance of the neckline to create a nice curve.

Fold the facing and the underlying seam allowance up. Sew the facing through all layers, right next to the seam.

2Sew 2 parallel rows of stitching at the top and bottom of the top front (1) using a long stitch length at a low thread tension. Always sew just slightly past the notch-es. Leave a length of thread at the start and end of the rows.

Carefully tug the ends of the threads to gather the fabric into ruffles.

2

9

9

9

2

2

1

1

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3Pin and sew the top of the top front to the top of the top back (2). Remember: the back facing should still be folded up. Distribute until the ruffles and notches on both sides are matching. Sew into place.

Finish the raw edges together with overlock stitching. Press the seam allowance towards the front.

Finish the bottom of the back facing and the interfaced side of the front together in one line with overlock stitching.

Fold the facing and interfaced portion of the fronts neatly onto the wrong side of the top. Pin the interfaced side temporarily into place at the bottom.

9

21 2

9

21 2

2

1

9

2

1

9

2

1

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4Finish the sleeve hem (3) with one of the following options:

1. with a rolled hem (if your overlocker has that option)

2. or with overlock stitching. Press the overlock stitching over and sew into place.

Pin and sew the sleeves to the armhole, matching the notches. The top should have 3/8" of seam allowance left on either side of the sleeve.

Finish the raw edges together with overlock stitching.

3

3 3

1.

2.

2

2

1

3

3/8”

3/8”

2

2

1

3

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Sew the small ends of the side seam.

Finish the raw edges together with overlock stitching.

5Pin and sew all the side seams of the front waistband (4) and back waistband (5) pieces together.

Turn one waistband the right way out and slide it into the other waistband so that the right sides are touching. Line up the tops of both waistbands with notches matching.

Slide the bodice so it is in between both waistbands.

2

2

45

45

4

4

4

4

5

5

5

4

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Distribute the gathers at the bottom of the top front so the notches match those on the waistband. Make sure the V notches match. Pin and sew into place.

Finish the raw edges together with overlock stitching.

6Finish the side seams of the skirt front (6) and skirt back (7) pieces and the straight ends of the pocket pieces (8) with overlock stitching.

Pin and sew the pocket pieces to the side seams between the marking threads.

Fold over the pocket pieces that you sewed to the front, sew the pocket piece through all the layers of fabric (pock-et + seam allowances) right next to the seam. (You'll omit this step for the back.)

5

4

5

4

6=7

8

86=7

8

6 8 8 7

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8

6=7

8

6=7

Pin and sew the side seams above and below the pock-et openings together, always sewing up to the marking threads.

Pin and sew the marked edges of the pocket pieces to-gether.

Finish the raw edges together with overlock stitching.

Place the raw edge of the pocket (closest to the CF) at the notch. Pin the top of the pocket to the waistline.

7Slide the bodice into the skirt as shown, right sides togeth-er. Match the V notches and the side seams. Pin and sew.

6=7

8

6

8

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Finish the raw edges together with overlock stitching.

8Finish the hem with overlock stitching.

Press the hem allowance over and sew into place.

9Hand sew the shoulder seams together with just a few stitches (along the inside) to hold the facing into place.

9

2

11 1