A voyage to the Antarctic Peninsula

Ushuaia - South Shetland Islands - Antarctic Peninsula - Ushuaia

Triplog: March 13 - 24, 2015

MV Ortelius

MV Ortelius was named after the Dutch cartographer Abraham Ortelius (1527-1598) who published the first modern world atlas, the Theatrum Orbis Terrarum (Theatre of the World) in 1570. MV Ortelius was built in 1989 in Gdynia, Poland, as a research vessel for the Russian Academy of Science and was named Marina Svetaeva. In 2011 she was purchased by Oceanwide Expeditions. The vessel was re-flagged and renamed Ortelius. Now the ship is sailing as a 125-Passenger vessel. MV Ortelius is 91 m long, 17.6 m wide and has a maximum draft of 5.8 m, with an ice strength rating of UL1/1A, top speed of 13 knots and one diesel engine generating 3200 kW.

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With:

Bridge Crew: Captain: Tuomo Leskinen (Finland) Chief Mate: Sven Haindl (Germany)

Second Mate: Sam Cook (UK) Third Mate: Janke Kingma (The Netherlands)

Deck crew: Bosun: Eli Serra (Philipines)

and Andy, Antonio, Clarence, Jayson, Lauren, Eniano.

Hotel Staff: Hotel Manager: Robert McGillivray (UK)

Assistant Hotel Manager: Dejan Nikolic (Serbia) Head Chef: Christian Gossak (Austria) Sous Chef: Matthew Crouch (Australia)

Baker: Marlon Perez (Philipines) and Alfred, Alfredo, Ana Liza, Ann, Charlotte, Maricel, Marvin, Marvin, Marjorie Ann, Mary Jane,

Noelle, Raquel, Rhoderic, Roland and Rolando

Engine room crew: Chief Engineer: Luis Patricio (Chile)

2nd engineer: Kalin Petrov Gochev (Bulgaria) 3rd engineer: Mario Latoja (Philipines) 4th engineer: James Segurp (Philipines)

Chief electrician: Vitaliy Svidersky (Russia) and Gregorio, Marino, Rogie, Vitaljis and Volodymyr

Expedition Team:

Expedition Leader: Jim Mayer (UK) Assistant Expedition Leader: Don McFadzien (New Zealand)

Guide/Lecturer: Dmitri Banin (biologist, Russia/USA) Guide/Lecturer: Carol Knott (historian, Scotland)

Guide/Lecturer: Gary Miller (biologist, USA/Australia) Guide/Lecturer: Christian Savigny (biologist, Argentina)

Guide/Lecturer: Mariela Cornejo (Argentina) Ship’s Physician: Lise van Turenhaut (The Netherlands)

Divemaster: Johan Petersson (Sweden) Dive Guide: Jerry Sutton (UK)

Dive Guide: Will Gilbertson (UK)

and 115 brave polar travellers from Australia, Austria, Canada, China, France, Germany, Great Britain, India, Italy, Japan, Mexico, The Netherlands, Singapore, South Africa, Spain and USA.

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Trip Log written by staff members as acknowledged and edited by Carol Knott. Photographs by Gary Miller, or as acknowledged.

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Friday March 13th: Ushuaia and departure

2130 position: 54º 54’S 67º 15’W; Wind ENE Force 3; Air 8.5ºC. Beagle Channel At last the day arrived which we had awaited so eagerly. We had gathered from sixteen countries all around the world (twenty-four including the crew and staff), and today we made our different ways to the wharf at Ushuaia where the Ortelius was waiting for us. Anticipation mounted as our luggage was taken on board and delivered to our cabins, and finally we boarded the ship, to be our home for the next eleven days as we explore the Antarctic Peninsula. First we found our way around the cabin, corridors, stairs and decks, familiarising ourselves with the layout and facilities of the Ortelius. But then we were called down to the lecture room for a safety briefing from Robert, the Hotel Manager, and Janke, the third officer, prior to climbing into our life jackets and practising the lifeboat drill. Then it was up to the bar, where we were welcomed by our Expedition Leader Jim, and introduced to the staff. With all the mandatory business concluded, we cast off from the quay at 1823, and watched Ushuaia slip away from us in the evening sunlight as we headed down the Beagle Channel southwards towards the Drake Passage. Then dinner and to bed, to dream of what might lie before us on the White Continent.

Photos: Gary Miller, Carol Knott

Saturday March 14th – At sea in the Drake Passage Noon position: 56º 57’S 64º 40’W; Wind NW Force 7/8; Sea state 5; Air 8ºC. by Dmitri Banin

Photos: Carol Knott, Dmitri Banin

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Today is the first morning of our voyage towards the Antarctic Peninsula. It was a very beautiful morning – grey clouds with scattered blue patches of clear sky, low sun that produced a short but thick and colourful rainbow on the horizon, about 3 m high dark-blue waves with bright white crests were created by 40 knots wind, and a pleasantly cool temperature.

Some of us were already awake long before breakfast enjoying the beginning of this new adventure and trying to identify some seabirds following our ship. We saw a few mostly immature Southern Giant petrels flying next to us. At a distance from the ship Black-browed Albatrosses were gliding in the air just above the surface of the ocean. The Antarctic prion followed our ship frequently changing direction among the waves. And finally the majestic Wandering Albatross – the largest flying bird in the world – was gradually was closing distance to our ship. The scientific name of the Wandering Albatross is Diomedea exulans. The species name means “exile”. The name of the genus derives from the Greek name of

Diomedes (Διομήδης) – the king of Argos and the youngest of the Ahaean kings, but as a warrior second only to Achilles. After breakfast Dmitri started today’s series of presentations with his lecture on “Birds of the Wind” where he talked about Procelariiformes – the seabirds that we could likely see in the Drake Passage. After lunch we had a lecture about Whales and Seals presented by Garry, where he described the species of the sea mammals that we could possibly see during our voyage. After tea time Carol gave us very interesting and well-illustrated talk about the history of exploration of the Antarctic Peninsula. Just before dinner we had recap, where we learned from our Expedition Leader Jim about our plans for the next day. After another delicious dinner we watched the BBC documentary: Frozen Planet Part 1: “To the end of the Earth”. We had very interesting and eventful day, and of course we are looking forward to the new day of our voyage tomorrow.

Sunday March 15th – At sea in the Drake Passage

Noon position: 60º 46’S 60º 55’W; Wind WSW Force 6; Sea state 4; Air 3ºC.

By Gary Miller

Good Morning Good People!! It seemed a lazy morning when we got the call from Jim. Breakfast in the dining rooms at 08:00 seems a luxury as we anticipate an earlier schedule as we get to making landings in Antarctica. Today’s schedule is busy with things for getting ready.

Photo: Dmitri Banin

Photos: Jerry Sutton

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The first order on the agenda for today was a great gumboot giveaway. It took us most of the morning, but everyone on board was fitted with gumboots. Most of us got the flashy ‘Muck’ boots with neoprene sides, but a few of us chose a different brand for reasons of size, choice of color or just because a few common sizes ran out. I heard one remark that like Henry Ford’s model T, “you can get it in any color you like as long as it is black”. Colour choices were lacking, but I am sure that the gumboots will become our fast friends once we start traipsing around in poo covered penguin colonies and getting in and out of Zodiacs along the shore. It’s hard to give up the notion of using one’s own walking shoes, but the salt water, the penguin poo, and the disinfectant wash with every landing is very hard on boots, so the rubber ones seem the best option. Besides, I plan to step in every puddle like a joyful child when I get them on and get on shore. By the time we finished with the boots, it was time for our mandatory briefings. It seemed hard to sit and take it all in as the room seemed to get warmer and warmer. But this was important stuff. First how to act on our landings and also how to act around wildlife. Jim gave us the talk, and covered it thoroughly. It’s hard to keep a distance when the wildlife ignores the 5-meter rule! With any luck once we visit some chicks, they will visit us up close. Just as important was our operations talk. Some of us have never boarded a Zodiac from a ship like this before so it is a new experience for many. It’s good to see with pictures what to expect. We always hope that the conditions at the gangway will be nice and smooth and calm. But the important lessons are there. Keep your hands free for the gangway while climbing in and out, use the sailor’s grip instead of a handshake, and STEP ON THE SIDE OF THE BOAT PLEASE—one—two—three—gets you into the Zodiac.

Vacuuming outdoor gear in the bar. Photos: Gary Miller, Carol Knott   

Finally a little break for lunch. But the preparations did not stop there. In the afternoon we had to bring all of our outer clothing in order to vacuum it. It’s all part of the efforts to keep Antarctic pristine. It’s been shown that people carry seeds and bits of plant material in their pockets, Velcro, camera bags, hats and mitts

if they are active outdoors at home. So everyone had to vacuum those to make sure everything is in order. With so many vacuums—and so many efficient people, we finished our vacuuming in short order. It was quick enough to add a talk to the schedule. Christian told us more about penguins. He’s given us the thumbnail sketches in a recap, but now we got much more of the full story. There was big excitement in the midst of his talk though. WHALES!! WHALES!! WHALES!! Came the cry over the PA system. It was fin whales to be exact

Two fin whales Photo: Gary Miller and there were lots of them. Our bridge crew did a

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fine job of approaching slowly and quietly. We had some of the best looks at fin whales one could imagine. At least one Mother with her calf was in the group. They circulated and surfaced in a way that made us believe they must have been foraging for krill. They circled us as we hung in the water with our forward progress stopped. What excitement for an afternoon on the Drake Passage. Not to mention the fact that the Drake was very kind to us. The swells were big enough to cause us distress except for them coming from behind us. We were very pleased to have that following swell, coming from the side or from head on would have really changed the ride. In the end we let the whales have their privacy and to resume their feeding without us. Christian did manage to finish the talk on penguins and we all headed to the bar for a recap and an evening drink. Tomorrow we are hoping to make our first stop at Half Moon Island. We can just make out Livingstone Island as the evening dims into darkness. Conditions are excellent as we head for our bunks and dream of the penguins and fur seals we hope to see in the morning.

Mother and calf fin whales Photo: Gary Miller  

Monday March 16th: Half Moon Island, South Shetlands Noon position: 62º 35’S 59º 53’W; Wind W Force 4; Sea state 2; Air 3ºC. By Christian Savigny The day started with strong winds, every now and then the forecast is accurate. With Ortelius vibrating next to Half Moon Island, it was time for patience and backup plans. Two hours later, conditions improved in terms of wind, as the fog was hiding the island from the ship and vice versa. Two landing spots were chosen and guests enjoyed a walk and some wildlife spotting, seals and penguins, including the rare macaroni. In the meantime, the diver's team was focused on their activity, busy with so much gear, valves and pipes. Half Moon Island gets its name from its distinctive shape. The island is located between Greenwich and Livingston Islands which makes for a protected anchorage. It is the home of Chinstrap Penguins as well as Blue-eyed Shags, Antarctic Terns, Southern Giant Petrels, Brown Skuas and Sheathbills. During the 1952/53 Antarctic Summer Campaign, one of the major tasks assigned was to establish a Naval Detachment in the vicinity of the South Shetland Islands. Then, on Isla Medialuna (Half Moon I.), the “Media-Luna Naval Detachment” was set up. It was officially inaugurated on April 1, 1953 by the Governor of the territory of Tierra del Fuego, Argentina. Later it was renamed Destacamento Naval “Teniente Cámara” in memory of the Argentine Navy Aviator, Lieutenant Juan Ramon Cámara, killed in an air accident in Antarctica on 25 de Mayo Island (King George Island), on January 16 1955. The small base is among the most active ones during the austral summer, with a range of scientific activities that include meteorological surface observations, Glaciological, Geological and Biological studies (mostly Botanical during the 2014-15 season).

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Blond fur seal at Half Moon Island Camara Base Photos: Gary Miller

Due to an accident during a dive, one of the guests had to be taken under the Doctor's care. Patient stabilized, after some hours was evident that a medical evacuation was in order, so the Captain put Ortelius on her way to Fildes Bay (King George Island), where the Chilean stations Fildes and Frei operate a reliable medevac system from their airstrip. With winds over 55 knots, Ortelius stayed adrift during the night, with plans of completing the evacuation at 06:00 of the following day.

Tuesday March 17th: At sea – Bransfield Strait 1400 position: 62º 51’S 60º 04’W; Wind NW Force 8; Sea state 3; Air 6ºC.

We awoke to the happy news that our diving casualty had been safely evacuated from the ship before sunrise at 5.30am, carried by Zodiac to the waiting staff at Frei Chilean Base on King George Island, where a plane had been arranged to take her to hospital at Punta Arenas in Chile. All the passengers, staff and crew of the Ortelius send Perla our very best wishes for a rapid recovery. After all that excitement and activity, we now found ourselves further north in the South Shetland Islands than we had originally planned before this unforeseen event. Expedition Leader Jim and his team reviewed all the options, and came up with an

optimal plan to make the most of our current situation. The ship accordingly departed from King George Island and headed south-west along the Bransfield Strait towards our intended afternoon destination at Deception Island. Almost immediately we found ourselves escorted by a cohort of Minke whales, while penguins porpoised in and out of the waves in the bright Antarctic sunshine. Soon Fin Whales appeared on our port side only 150m off the ship as we passed Nelson Island with its shimmering glacier faces. Photos: Gary Miller Porpoising Chinstrap penguins

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At 10.30am we were treated to another talk, this time by Dmitri, on ‘Adaptions to life in Antarctica’. We learned about the intriguing variety of ways in which penguins, seabirds, seals and whales have evolved to survive and thrive in this frigid environment. Just before lunch, Carol gave us a short history of Deception Island, in anticipation of our hoped-for landing there later, and Jim briefed us on the latest expedition plans. After lunch, as we continued cruising along the spectacular snow-covered coasts of Robert Island and Livingstone Island, the water seemed to be full of whales. A pod of about eight Killer Whales lounged near the ship, while Humpback Whales blew and dived only a little further off. One group of three Humpbacks included a mother and baby. Then, to everyone’s delight, one surfaced close to the ship and thrilled us with a wonderful show of its fluke as it went for a deep dive. A few Black-browed Albatrosses and South Polar Skuas were spotted flying by the ship.

Deception Island hiding in the mist Neptune’s Bellows on the radar Photos: Gary Miller Then we were on our approach to Deception Island, but the deceptive island lived up to its name. The wind picked up to 35 knots, and visibility dropped dramatically. Soon Deception Island disappeared from our sight as snow fell in thick squalls around the ship. We waited and waited outside Neptune’s Bellows, the narrow entrance pierced by Raven Rock where the wreckage of one unfortunate ship still lies rusting. But eventually Jim and Captain Tuomo reluctantly made the decision that a landing would be impossible, and we turned southwards to pastures new, accompanied by ranks of chinstrap penguins speeding their way through the water around us, and the occasional dozing fur seal startled by the passage of the Ortelius. But spirits were not dampened in the bar at evening recap, not least because it was St Patrick’s Day! Many of our number were decked in green, and Lois Head gave a spirited rendering of ‘When Irish Eyes are Smiling’. Gary explained more about the wonderful whale sightings and behaviour we had seen today, and Expedition Leader Jim filled us in with the ever-changing plans for the remainder of the expedition. We hope for good weather and favourable conditions for tomorrow’s landings. Wednesday March 18th: Cuverville Island – Paradise Bay Noon position: 64º 40’S 62º 36’W; Wind W Force 6; Sea state 2; Air 2ºC.

By Mariela Cornejo

As we made our way out onto the decks this morning we found ourselves in the Gerlache Strait surrounded by high snowy mountains with their glaciers running right down to the sea. Right after breakfast, we were drifting off Cuverville Island in the Errera Channel. Snow was gently falling down and there was no wind. It was an Antarctic day, as we dreamt it would be.

Photo: Juan Zulueta

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Shortly after that we found ourselves being shuttled ashore where the resident Gentoo Penguins were there to meet us on the beach and surrounding snow slopes. At this time of the year, the chicks are almost done with moulting and they are starting to realise they will eventually need to go to the water! Don took some adventurous walkers with him. They headed up to the summit of the island and ended up sliding down the hill! The view from the top of the mountain was stunning. Meanwhile, Christian and Mariela were guiding the rest of the group to both ends of the beach area. As we walked along the shore, we saw some whale bones that stayed after the whaler activity in the area. Some of the penguins were chewing the pants and gloves of those patient ones sitting on the rocks. There were some Fur Seals swimming around and a juvenile chasing penguins on the south side of the island.

Gentoo Penguins Photos: Gary Miller

Photo: Juan Zulueta Snorkelling with Humpbacks at Cuverville. Photo: Will Gilbertson

Johan, Jerry and Will together with the snorkelers made their way to the steep side of the island to do their first session. They had a close encounter with some seals eating penguins and a few Humpbacks swimming underneath them! The channel was full of icebergs and the views over the Errera Channel were beautiful. As the morning went by, the rocks started to be covered by snow and all too soon it was time to head back to the ship for a warming lunch. During lunch Ortelius sailed south to Paradise Bay. Paradise Bay, so named for its protection from the prevailing winds of the Antarctic Peninsula, lived up to its billing. Waters were calmed enough for an excursion to Base Brown, previously named “Scientific

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Station Almirante Brown”. It is an Argentine base, which offers a look at vintage Antarctic constructions and a chance to go for a short climb to an overlook onto the scenic bay. It was rebuilt after a fire that burned everything but the accommodation building. Nowadays it's a Summer Station, which means that from late October up to mid March we can find Argentinians living there. We landed in front of the main building and checked for residents there but we could only find Gentoos.

Skontorp Bay, Paradise Harbour Photo: Gary Miller Half of us started to walk to the vantage point while the other half went for a Zodiac cruise through the bay and into Skontorp Cove, where we found a small sail yacht called “Spirit of Sydney”. Snorkelers went for another session and took amazing pictures of seals and penguins. After more than an hour, we swapped out groups and we were lucky enough to see, for the second time in the day, Leopard Seals sleeping on icebergs and Crabeater Seals playing around. Paradise Bay offered us the chance to see metamorphic rocks with its facets really clear, lichens, moss, stunning glaciers and beautiful Shags. After a busy day, we all came back to the ship eager to share tales from the day and anticipating the next Antarctic adventure. Thursday March 19th: Lemaire Channel, Port Charcot, Petermann Island

Noon position: 65º 05’S 64º 02’W; Wind SSW Force 4; Sea state 1; Air 4ºC. Dear Mum and Dad, I am writing from the wilds of the Antarctic Peninsula. I am on a boot camp ship called Ortelius. It has been a really tough day. The management here does not let us rest at all. I was hoping for a sleep in this morning but the voice from the ceiling woke us all at the ungodly hour of 6-30. Just to look at a narrow bit of water between a couple of mountains. It turned out to be really neat: huge ice cliffs towering over us up to one thousand meters high; the narrow three hundred meter deep channel filled with bits of ice called ‘brash’, and lots of turquoise blue ice bergs. The temperature was bloody freezing and the wind-chill made it all totally intolerable, but the scenery was the best ever, and we all enjoyed the spectacular ride. Even better than Yellow Stone. And all before breakfast.

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Approaching Lemaire Channel Photos: Gary Miller

I could have gone back to bed as the scenic entrée was unbeatable, but the boot camp managers had other ideas. They steered the ship into a small bay filled with more spectacular ice bergs, some bigger than a city block. It was really windy, too windy to go outside I reckon but the manager pushed the limits to get us all off the ship, into the flimsy rubber boats, and dumped us all on shore. This dirty great big leopard seal was there to greet us. I didn’t notice much about him except the ginormous teeth. Ye gods the penguins don’t stand a chance. Later on we saw him demolish a penguin in a single swipe. Ouch. We wandered around Port Charcot; named after a French explorer from years ago; even before Grandma was born. What a great place. Some scientists tried to study magnetic stuff, and built a rock house. We also saw lots of penguins. There would have been more if not for the Leopard Seal!

Port Charcot: penguins

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Port Charcot: stone hut built for magnetic observations; icebergs; penguin parade. Photos: Gary Miller

Also saw some weird Japanese cartoon character skiing down the hill. This part of the world is full of surprises.

‘Funassyi’swimming at Cuverville

On the way back to the boot camp accommodation unit we found some neat ice sculptures, and seals all over the place. The boot camp sergeant major called them all Crab eaters. That is the most prolific species. I still reckon some looked different with all those spots. They gave us some lunch, and time for a 30 minute siesta. Then back into battle. This time it was to a small island called Petermann. Another excellent place although I would have liked to have a cup of tea and a lie down after the long and strenuous walk they made us do. It was lucky the scenery was really fantastic. We slogged our way to top of a huge cliff, where the view was extraordinary. A bay full of ice bergs that may have travelled thousands of miles to get here. Seemed a waste really as there were plenty here to start with. And the swags of penguins called Gentoos. It is a surprise to learn they came from India as it is quite hot there. Some of us were really lucky and saw an Adélie penguin as well. Adélies are named after another French explorer’s girlfriend. It looked the same as the Gentoo except for a black beak, black feet and a white ring around his eye. He was the only one there. I wonder why?

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Port Charcot panorama Photo: Gary Miller

The other thing we saw was a Weddell Seal. It is a bit spotty like granddads face, and lay in the sun all afternoon, and farted lots. It was even lying in its own poo! Yuk. We also saw pointy nosed seals called Fur Seals. They were the ones killed for their fur ages ago, and have now recovered to epidemic numbers again on the Island of South Georgia. There were several of them running round chasing penguins. So, there are other seals than Crabeaters. I wanted to see an Elephant Seal but they reckoned they had all gone north for the winter. I don’t think they come this far south as it gets very cold here. You would have enjoyed the birds. Saw South Polar Skuas. Their table manners are atrocious as they tear up dead penguins, and fight over the scraps. Giant Petrels come in two colours… blackish and white ones. The white ones are supposed to be rare but we saw several of them. Also saw tiny Wilsons Storm Petrels skimming over the water eating really small stuff off the surface. We did see a grubby little white land bird called a Sheathbill, but they will never win any beauty contests in this place. Penguins are just way too cute. We got back onto the base camp ship, and got ready to go to the bar for a well-earned pre dinner snort. No such luck. They dragged us back outside again for the return cruise through the Lemaire Channel. I thought this morning’s trip was good but going north was even better. The sun was fighting against the clouds and snow giving some wonderful colours and textures that even Mr Picasso would have liked. The other main challenge here on Ortelius Boot Camp is conforming to the food demands. They keep lining us up in the dining rooms and making us eat all this calorific food. It is all fantastic stuff, but two or three courses, three times a day is exactly what I am trying avoid. What if I get fat? And then they temp us further with cakes and bikkies in the bar beside the 24 hour coffee/hot chocolate machine. Oh dear life on board is such a challenge. Having a great time so far. Hope I can get some sleep sometime but it is all go, go, go. I would hate to get caught out sleeping or not being enthusiastic about the stuff going on. They would probably punish you by making you marry some-one. That happened to the passengers in cabin 428. Fortunately they do like each other. Phew. I think I need a lie down…. But no! It is time for more food. Your loving son, Percival Montgomery Thwaites

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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Our warmest congratulations to Alexander and Kayla on their engagement! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Friday March 20th: Port Lockroy and Jougla Point – Neko Harbour Noon position: 64º 49’S 63º 31’W; Wind WSW Force 6; Sea state 2; Air 2ºC.

By Mariela Cornejo

It was 7 in the morning when we heard our Expedition Leader saying Good Morning. The sea was calm, we were slowing approaching to Goudier Island while the sun was starting to show. We started to load the Zodiacs and the wind speeded up to 30 knots, but of course that wasn't the kind of thing that wouldn't allow us to enjoy the landing.

The first 5 Zodiacs took passengers ashore at Port Lockroy while the rest of the passengers went around the corner to Jougla Point, home to more Gentoo Penguins. At Port Lockroy everyone enjoyed visiting the museum (Former British Antarctic Base A) and sending postcards (that will pick up the Postman next November!!) but also spent time just watching the penguins going about their business completely unconcerned by our presence.

Photo: Gary Miller Over at Jougla the penguins were playing around and it was a relaxing morning just watching them making their way to and from the water. There was also a lone Fur seal playing with the penguins near the landing that kept everyone entertained for a while. It had been a great morning of postal therapy and penguins at the Penguin Post Office and we all made our way back to the ship to reposition at Neko Harbour. Neko Harbour was named for Christian Salvesen’s floating whaling factory ship, Neko, which operated in the South

Jougla Point Photo: Jerry Sutton

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Shetlands and Antarctic Peninsula from 1911-2 to 1923-4, and often used this protected bay to escape the storms. We cruised into Andvord Bay to our landing spot. The sun was shining and there were plenty of icebergs around. In order to get there, we had to maneuver around and through the ice. The Captain did a great job of taking the ship quite close to the glacier enabling the Zodiacs to be launched for our second continental landing. For some it was their 7th continent... congratulations!

Once we arrived on shore, some of us took a hike to the top of the hill where a number of us had the thrill of sliding down the luge runs to the amazement of the penguins. The rest of us watched the Gentoo Penguin chicks run around hysterically, chasing their parents for more food. We all patiently stared out at the glacier face hoping for a calving to occur, which happened twice. Some brave passengers went for a Polar Plunge to the beach next to the landing site. The water was cold but the sun was shining and helped warming up again after the swim. We came back to the ship where Robert was

waiting for us with a lovely dinner. After a long day of adventures, was time to go to the bar to enjoy Rolando's amazing drinks!

Photo: Will Gilbertson

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Saturday March 21st: Wilhelmina Bay 0800 position: 64º 39’S 62º 67’W; Wind SSE Force 2; Sea state ice; Air 1ºC. By Jerry Sutton

Today, our last day in Antarctica, began with an early wake up call and spectacular sunrise as we sailed slowly amongst the islands of Wilhelmina Bay.

Curious Leopard Seal and Humpback Whale Photos: Gary Miller

With a sun drenched backdrop and calm seas, the zodiacs headed into the cool morning air, wandering in all directions between the brash and bergs in search whales and other local inhabitants.

The serenity of the bay and near silence on the radios belied the activity around the cruising boats. Humpbacks were the order of the day. Fins and flukes abounded as every one of our zodiacs managed to search out some of these gentle giants, whilst Leopard, Weddell and Fur Seals added to the encounter list.

With time running short and the Drake beckoning, after a final check of the tag board, Ortelius slowly turned and began the journey north from Wilhelmina bay out into the wider channels of the peninsular islands, finally hitting open sea mid afternoon.

A few Humpback and Minke sightings kept those on the bridge happy as the mist settled and Antarctica gradually faded from view.

In the afternoon, Dmitri delved into the origins of some of the whale species we had seen over the course of the trip whilst those relaxing around the ship shared photos and reminisced over what they had seen. A great final day in Antarctica.

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Sunday March 22nd: Drake Passage

noon position: 60º 23’S 69º 32’W; Wind WSW Force 7/8; Sea state 4; Air 4ºC.

Through the night the Ortelius made her way steadily northwards through the first section of the infamous Drake Passage. Fortunately for us, conditions were reasonably good and, seasoned sailors as we now all are, our new sea legs served us well on this first day of our homeward journey. Ever-vigilant Dmitri was among the early birds strolling the decks in the pre-breakfast morning light, and came across two bewildered Cape petrels that had made an unexpected landing on the ship. Gently he collected them and released them back into the air where these seabirds belong.

Third officer Janke on the bridge ‘Funassyi’ and friends Photos: Gary Miller

A day at sea can be relaxing and leisurely, but a busy day in the lecture room was also on the schedule. The programme started with a talk by Carol about Shackleton’s ill-fated Endurance expedition in 1914-1916, and the theme was continued by Jim, with his inspiring presentation about the importance of poetry in Shackleton’s life, and the use he made of it at times of crisis, based on Jim’s new book ‘Shackleton: a Life in Poetry’. After lunch we had a most unusual audience with ‘Funassyi’, the Japanese character (actually a Pear Fairy) whose team have been filming a television episode of our travels in Antarctica. Slightly bemused over the days, we have glimpsed Funassyi skiing in the snow, dancing on an iceberg and even snorkelling, but now we were shown an entertaining preview of their television film to be screened in May 2015, which may be watched by ten million people in Japan alone. The afternoon was concluded by Gary, rather more soberly, with his nonetheless fascinating account of his year in Antarctica with emperor penguins.

Monday March 23rd: Drake Passage, Cape Horn, Beagle Channel

1030 position: 56º 26’S 66º 18’W; Wind SW Force 6; Sea state 4; Air 7.5ºC.

One of the great delights of an ocean voyage like ours is to spend time on the bridge and watch the ship plough along at an easy eleven knots across the Southern Ocean. The officers and crew stand watchfully at their posts, but always have time to chat with us about the day, the conditions, the succession of seabirds winging by, or perhaps something quite different altogether. Our naturalists are poised with their binoculars, ready to point out anything of interest. But soon the call comes from above – it’s time to part with our gumboots. We might not have been too sure about them at first, all black and chunky, but over our voyage together they have proved their inestimable worth, keeping our feet dry and usually warm as we dunked them in and out of the bucket of disinfectant before and after landings, as we boarded swaying Zodiacs at the bottom of the gangways and fearlessly accomplished one wet landing after another. They came with us as we tramped over snowfields, gripping undaunted on the icy patches, and as we negotiated soggy areas of pink and pungent penguin poo. Only when that reckless number amongst us decided to plunge into the frigid

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water for a swim were they temporarily discarded on the beach. But now these old and reliable friends could be put away.

Sea conditions had been very favourable this morning. Wandering Albatross and Grey-headed Albatross accompanied the ship as, through the haze, we approached Cape Horn. Continuing onwards towards the Beagle Channel, there was time for a look at some of Oceanwide’s other destinations with Expedition Leader Jim, especially the sub-Antarctic Island of South Georgia, abounding in wildlife as no other, and Svalbard, the home of the Polar Bear. Where shall we find ourselves next time? Then there was the more mundane matter of settling our shipboard accounts, before being treated to a presentation by Mariela, giving us her unique insight into the rich culture of the native peoples of southern South America. Soon we would be ready to enter the Beagle Channel again and make our final approach to Ushuaia. The final event of the day, after our disembarkation briefing, was a farewell toast with Captain Tuomo, before preparing for bed and our departure in the morning.

Full Speed Ahead (Gary Miller)

Tuesday March 24th. Beagle Channel and Ushuaia Position: 54º 48’S 68º 20’W

We have arrived! We have completed an epic journey of 1824 nautical miles and, as the light broke over the snow-capped mountains of Ushuaia, we made our approach into the port and after breakfast are ready to depart. We are full of reflection on the wonderful experiences we have had in Antarctica, the breathtaking landscapes, the wildlife on land and in the water, the icebergs, the history, the romance of the place. We have a morning of leave-taking of our many new friends amongst our fellow passengers and the staff and the crew of the Ortelius. And perhaps, one day, some of us will return .........

AU REVOIR ANTARCTICA!

Photo: Gary Miller

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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Oceanwide staff OTL27

Jim Mayer Percival Montgomery Thwaites Lise Turenhaut Expedition Leader AKA Don Ship’s Doctor Assistant Expedition Leader

           Gary Miller (Naturalist) Christian Savigny (Naturalist) Dmitri Banin (Naturalist)

                  Carol Knott Mariela Cornejo Johan Petersson Jerry Sutton Historian Guide/lecturer Divemaster Dive Guide 

 

 

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       Will Gilbertson Robert McGillivray Dejan (DJ) Nikolic Dive Guide Hotel Manager Assistant Hotel Manager  

 

 

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References: 

1. Half Moon Island 

2. King George Island 

3. Cuverville Island 

4. Paradise Bay 

5. Port Charcot (Booth Island) 

6. Petermann Island 

7. Port Lockroy and Jougla Point 

8. Neko Harbour 

9. Whihelmina Bay 

1

2 

4 5 6 

7 

8 

9 3 

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BIRDS AVES

Mar

-13

Mar

-14

Mar

-15

Mar

-16

Mar

-17

Mar

-18

Mar

-19

Mar

-20

Mar

-21

Mar

-22

Mar

-23

Mar

-24

Gentoo Penguin Pygoscelis papua X X X X X XAdélie Penguin Pygoscelis adeliae X XChinstrap Penguin Pygoscelis antarctica X XMagellanic Penguin Spheniscus magellanicus X

Wandering Albatross Diomedea exulans X X XLight-mantled Sooty Albatross Phoebetria palpebrata XGrey-headed Albatross Diomedea chrysostoma X XBlack-browed Albatross Diomedea melanophris X X X X X X

Southern Giant Petrel Macronectes giganteus X X X X X XNorthern Giant Petrel Macronecets hallii X XSouthern Fulmar Fulmarus glacialoides X X XCape Petrel Daption capense X X X XAntarctic Prion Pachyptila desolata X XSooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus X XWhite-chinned Petrel Procellaria aequinoctialis X X

Wilson’s Storm-Petrel Oceanites oceanicus X X X X X X X X

South Polar Skua Catharacta maccormicki X X X X XBrown Skua Catharacta antarctica X X X

Antarctic Shag Phalacrocorax bransfieldensis X X X X XKing Shag Phalacrocorax albiventer X XRock Shag Phalacrocorax magellanicus X

Dolphin Gull Larus scoresbii X XKelp Gull Larus dominicanus X X X X X X XAntarctic Tern Sterna vittata X X X XSouth American Tern Sterna hirundinacea X X

Pale-faced Sheathbill Chionis alba X X

Crabeater Seal Lobodon carcinophagus X X XWeddell Seal Leptonychotes weddellii X XLeopard Seal Hydrurga leptonyx X X X XSouthern Fur Seal Arctocephalus gazella X X X X X XSouthern Elephant Seal Mirounga leonina X

Humpback Whale Megaptera novaeangliae X X X XFin Whale Balaenoptera physalus XAntarctic Minke Whale Balaeonptera bonaerensis X X X

Orca Orcinus orca X X

Skuas

Shags

Wildlife List – Antarctic Peninsulaaboard M/V ORTELIUS / March 13 - 24, 2015

Penguins

Albatrosses

Petrels

Storm Petrels

Dolphins

Gulls and Terns

Sheathbills

Seals

Baleen Whales - Rorquals

MAMMALS MAMMALIA

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Recommended wildlife book on the Antarctic Shirihai, Hadoram. 2007. A Complete Guide to Antarctic Wildlife. 2nd Edition. A. & C. Black, London. The definitive guide for Antarctic wildlife. Has descriptions of popular sites too. Excellent in all respects. Recommended history books on the Antarctic Peninsula • The Storied Ice: Exploration, Discovery, and Adventure in Antarctica’s Peninsula Region, by Joan N. Boothe (2011). The only detailed book focusing exclusively on the Antarctic Peninsula. Very thorough and complete; can be a bit heavy-going! • Let Heroes Speak: Antarctic Explorers 1772 – 1922, by Michael H. Rosove (2000). This covers the entire Heroic Age (1895 – 1917; also before & slightly after) in Antarctica and uses direct quotations from explorers’ diaries. Strongly recommended. • Frozen Footprints, by John Harrison. The author has visited many sites in the Antarctic Peninsula region and describes how they are today, accompanied by detailed flashbacks to the days of discovery and exploration. • Through the First Antarctic Night, by Dr. Frederick Cook (1900). Cook (& Amundsen) kept nearly all of Gerlache’s men alive for the 13 months they were stuck in the ice on Belgica, drifting south of the Antarctic Circle. • Quinze Mois dans l’Antarctique (Fifteen Months in the Antarctic, 1902), by Adrien de Gerlache. Gerlache was leader of the Belgian Antarctic expedition (1897 – 99). • Antarctica, by Otto Nordenskjold and Johan Gunnar Andersson. Written immediately after Nordenskjöld’s 1901–03 expedition; the title is taken from the name of his ship. • Le ‘Français’ au Pole Sud (The ‘Français’ at the South Pole, 1906), by Jean Baptiste Charcot. This is a lively account of Charcot’s first Antarctic expedition (1903 – 05) on Français. • Southern Lights, by John Rymill, about his British Graham Land Expedition, 1934-37. Original edition published in 1939, reprints in 1986 and 2011 (available from the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust, www.ukaht.org/) Shackleton Reading List Suggestions From the Heroic Age of exploration: • The Heart of the Antarctic – Ernest Shackleton. Ghost-written account of Shackleton’s Nimrod expedition of 1907. • South: The Endurance – Ernest Shackleton. Ghost-written account of Endurance expedition. • Endurance – F.A. Worsley. A very readable account of the Endurance expedition by Shackleton’s great friend and navigator, Frank Worsley. • Shackleton’s Boat Journey – F.A. Worsley. Focus on the rescue mission of the James Caird – Elephant Island to South Georgia. • Shackleton A Life in Poetry – by a certain Jim Mayer, a well-known character on this ship. Tells the story of the explorer through the verses he loved, used to motivate his men and wrote home to his wife and mistresses. This new biography reveals previously un-published material. (Editor’s recommendation!) • Scott, Shackleton and Amundsen – David Thomson. An easy and refreshing read, comparing these three very different men’s exploration styles. • Endurance – Alfred Lansing. Another easy and interesting read, specifically on the Endurance expedition. • Shackleton – Roland Huntford. Somewhat heavyweight, but definitive tome on Shackleton the man, as well as Shackleton the Explorer. Worth reading both for its serious analysis and juicy anecdotes! • The Endurance – Caroline Alexander. A lively read – be cautious about factual details however. • Mrs Chippy’s Last Expedition: The Remarkable Journal of Shackleton’s Polar-Bound Cat – Caroline Alexander. This is wonderful! A fictional account of the Endurance expedition told by the ship’s cat…Surprising insights into the behaviour of the humans on board. • Shackleton’s Forgotten Men – Lennard Bickel. An excellent account of what was going on in the Ross Sea region during Endurance’s adventures. The Aurora took down a group of men to lay depots for Shackleton’s trans-Antarctic crossing; of course, he never came. This is their tragic and moving story.

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• Polar Castaways: The Ross Sea Party of Sir Ernest Shackleton - Richard McElrea. • The Ross Sea Shore Party 1914 – 17- Richard W. Richards. Dick Richard’s account (important member of Ross Sea Shore Party). • The Lost Men: The Harrowing Saga of Shackleton’s Ross Sea Party -Kelly Tyler-Lewis. German Translations: • The Endurance – Caroline Alexander = Die Endurance - Shackletons legendäre Expedition in die Antarktis • Endurance – Alfred Lansing = 635 Tage im Eis: Die Shackleton-Expedition von Alfred Lansing, Franca Fritz, Heinrich Koop und Kristian Lutze. • Mrs Chippy’s Last Expedition: The Remarkable Journal of Shackleton’s Polar-Bound Cat – Caroline Alexander = Mrs. Chippys letzte Fahrt in die Antarktis. Das bisher unentdeckte Tagebuch von Shackletons Schiffskatze. Amundsen & Scott • The last Viking – the Life of Roald Amundsen by Stephen R. Brown. • The South Pole – an Account of the Norwegian Antarctic Expedition in the ‘Fram’, 1910-1912. By Roald Amundsen (translated by A.G. Charter). 1912. • Scott’s Last Expedition/The Voyage of the Discovery – very well-written and readable account by Scott himself. • The Last place on Earth/Scott and Amundsen by Roland Huntford – very detailed and well-researched account of Scott and Amundsen’s famous race to the Pole. A great supporter of Amundsen and a great debunker of Scott. • Captain Scott by Ranulph Fiennes – A much easier read than Huntford’s tome; sets out to debunk the debunking of Scott and vindicate his heroic reputation. • The Worst Journey in the World by Apsley Cherry-Garrard – A wonderfully written account of Scott’s last expedition, with emphasis on Cherry-Garrard/Wilson/Bowers’ winter journey to Cape Crozier for emperor penguin eggs. Novels and first-person modern accounts on Antarctica • The Nature of Ice by Robyn Mundy. Two interwoven tales of a modern photographer who spends a summer on an Antarctic Station. The author uses Frank Hurley’s photos for inspiration, so the story alternates with a true telling of Douglas Mawson’s 1911-1914 expedition. • Antarctica by Kim Stanley-Robinson – a sci-fi, futuristic, political novel set against a backdrop of one version of a future Antarctica. Highly recommended. • Skating to Antarctica by Jenny Diski – a compelling account of a journey to Antarctica and an inner journey of the spirit. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 

JIM MAYER: Jim has been travelling in the Arctic and Antarctic for many years. His first polar adventure was to Spitsbergen as a student in 1990 to catch and ring Barnacle Geese. Later, Jim attempted to ski the length of Svalbard from south to north but had to give up when all his food was eaten by polar bears!

In 2000 he made the mistake of skiing 560km across the Greenland Icecap with a man he’d met in the pub. Jim worked for the British Antarctic Survey at Rothera Research Station and on the Rutford Ice Stream. He was responsible for waste management at the base. Jim enjoys driving the Zodiacs and has clocked–up over 4,000 nautical miles in Antarctica, Svalbard and Greenland Specialising in the history of polar exploration, Jim’s first book will be published this autumn. It is a biography of Sir Ernest Shackleton, based on the explorer’s love of poetry, and contains many previously unpublished writings. For Oceanwide, Jim has been part of the expedition team since the maiden voyages of the Plancius to South Georgia and the Antarctic in January 2010 and is pleased to be on board again!

Don McFadzien – Assistant Expedition Leader Mountain Guide.

Don has led voyages to the Falklands, South Georgia, the Antarctic Peninsula, New Zealand’s sub-Antarctic Islands, Macquarie Island, the Ross Sea and East Antarctica. He has been visiting the Antarctic regularly since 2002, when he first attempted the Shackleton’s crossing on South Georgia. These magnificent destinations are for those who enjoy the challenges and wonders of an expedition to the wilds of the high latitudes where one’s plans are at the mercy of the sea, the ice and the weather.

Don has also spent a considerable amount of time in Spitsbergen and Greenland. Don is an experienced mountain and ski guide. He has instructed at New Zealand's Outward Bound School, and spent many years guiding in the Mount Cook region in New Zealand's Southern Alps. For a brief time, he was a teacher. He has trekked in Nepal, taught skiing in Austria, climbed and skied in Canada and the USA, windsurfed in Maui, and trekked in Patagonia. Don and his partner Gill live in the delightful city of Nelson at the top of the South Island in New Zealand.

Christian Savigny - Guide and Lecturer

A birder and illustrator, Christian

holds a degree in Natural Sciences

and is widely considered

Argentina’s “pelagics guru”.

Beguiled by birds since the late

80’s, he worked and volunteered

for several NGO’s in conservation

projects and worked as a Fisheries

Observer / Instructor. Christian

started sailing south in 1998,

becoming familiar with all

seabirds of the SW Atlantic. In

2005 he started lecturing and

leading expeditions to Antarctica ,

Islas Malvinas (Falklands), South

Georgia and the Ross Sea area, logging over 100 trips as Guide, Lecturer, Zodiac

driver, Helicopter Ops field Assistant, Asst. EL and Expedition Leader. Having

found some rarities, including several albatrosses and petrels new to Argentina

and/or the SW Atlantic, he has written many papers and articles, authored and

contributed to several books. During three years he lived and birded in Europe

and has explored many South American and Southern African wild areas. Based

in Mar del Plata, Christian is finishing a profusely illustrated handbook on the

“Birds of the Southwest Atlantic & Antarctica”. Christian lectures on Wildlife,

Conservation, History of Exploration and basic Geology.

Mariela Cornejo - Guide and Lecturer

I was born in Ushuaia, in 1985, and ever since I've been wishing to work within the tourism activity carried on cruise ships and larger vessels. Since 1998, I've been sailing and I have participated in sports and classical Welcome Regatta Racing to the Fragata Libertad.

Raised in the middle of a valley, I've been practicing winter sports my whole life. Having Fitness Instructors as parents, I had the opportunity of trying as many sports as you can imagine. Being in love with Ushuaia's landscapes and geography, we decided to run an Adventure Sports and Winter Activities Center in a valley 25 kilometers away from the city, where I trained Nordic Ski and Biathlon. This gave me the chance of improving my performance and participate in

Biathlon World championships in Poland and France. I also took part in several international competitions in Spain, Italy, Croatia, Slovakia and Germany.

Life gave me the chance of discovering that I love to lead groups in outdoors activities. So many years sharing different experiences with people all over the world taught me the importance of the concept of synergy, which we'll develop naturally throughout the expedition.

Being part of the Staff in Expedition Cruises to Antarctica it's been my dream since I was six years old, when my father had the chance on going as a teacher to an Argentinian base, Marambio, carrying with him his first child, ME! Finally he couldn't do it and ever since I had the sureness one day I will do it.

Johan Petersson

Johan is from the south of Sweden where he has dived for twenty seven years. He has worked as an instructor and as a crew member on a dive boat exploring the wrecks of the south Baltic Sea. Though wreck diving is his main interest, Johan has taken part in other dive projects such as coral reef monitoring and marine archaeology. In 2010 he joined Oceanwide as a dive guide in Antarctica. After diving in various waters over the world, Johan prefers cold waters to any coral reef. When not diving or messing about with boats, Johan works as a carpenter. He is married and has two daughters.

Jerry Sutton Dive Guide

Jerry grew up running around the country side, reading Tintin & Famous Five and watching Jacques Cousteau on the TV, all of which spawned a taste for outdoor adventure. University was the springboard into many activities that involved leaving the safety net of modern society, and he’s is just as happy rummaging through a wreck, squeezing through a cave, scaling a mountain cliff or jumping out of a perfectly serviceable aeroplane. Having had a career that spans the scientific, academic and engineering fields, in real life Jerry is currently an engineer with the oil and gas industry, living in the granite city of Aberdeen. Always hankering for adventure and something a bit different, a love for extremes has lead from the wettest of bug infested rain forests, to the highest & driest of deserts, and on to the ice of the polar regions. Trying to fit all this round a working life has not been easy, but Jerry has found that being really really nice to your boss helps go a long way.

Jerry has also been lucky enough to work on several expeditions over the years. He has built bridges & cut trails in the Bornean rain forests, carried out coral reef surveys in the South China Sea, and worked directly and indirectly with the BBC natural History Unit in both Borneo, trekking in search of various seeds & plants, and in Gabon, fixing ropes, platforms and cameramen into the forest canopy whilst filming the elusive mandrill. Jerry has taught scuba diving since university, just for fun, and holds instructor ratings through the British Sub Aqua Club across many diving related activities. He is involved on a regional level in the North of Scotland, has been Diving Officer for Aberdeen University’s alumni sub aqua club for some years and is well versed in the organisation of expedition style excursions. Diving has led to many interesting activities from hacking through solid ice, to supervising music videos and even snorting vodka in remote Scottish bars with well known TV personalities. The love for adventure, and the chance to head to Antarctica in 2012 has brought Jerry back since as a guide in both the Arctic and Antarctic. Back at home, Jerry has a wife and young family who in no way take the constant wish to leave home personally (yet).

Will Gilbertson – Dive Guide

Will grew up near St Andrews in Scotland, the “home of golf”. However, having never had much interest in the game, he enjoyed growing up with more energetic activities, going hillwalking, sailing and generally messing around outdoors from an early age. Will now lives in Aberdeen and currently works as a survival instructor in the oil and gas industry, training offshore workers in sea survival, fire-fighting and

underwater helicopter escape skills.

At university Will studied marine biology and afterwards went on to complete a research degree in ecology. Whilst his initial motivation for studying marine biology was probably for the charismatic large animals, over time interest broadened to include the smaller creatures and how they interact to affect the wider marine ecology. In the end, the theme of Will’s research was how burrowing invertebrates (such as worms, shrimps and snails) affect the single-celled microbes living on the sea floor and the impact this has on the rate at which nutrients are recycled in ecosystems.

Given his interest in marine life, Will naturally jumped at the chance to learn to dive with the University dive club, nearly 10 years ago now. Most of his diving has been of the cold water variety, getting to know the underwater scenery around Scotland and some of the fantastic wrecks it has to offer. However, this trip is the first time Will has ventured south to Antarctica – the highest latitude he has reached so far is the North coast of Iceland, where there was some great diving to be had on some unusually shallow hydrothermal chimney. Also in Iceland, he dived the famous Silfra rift between the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates, filled with clear glacial meltwater. Will has always had an interest in Polar wildlife and exploration, to the extent of naming his rather determined cat ‘Shackleton’ – though he is generally known as Shacks for short, which also sounds a bit more normal being called across the garden.