(1901) Clothes Dictionary

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iClothes Dictionary


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Copyrighted 1901By Cahn, Wampold & Co

CHICAGO


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The Gist-of-Things Library Vol. IICLOTHESDICTIONARYQuickly stated definitions gleaned fromtechnical dictionaries and other books,and that current trade lingo that nobook has yet set forth.

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PUBLISHED BYCAHN, WAMPOLD & CO.CHICAGO, ILL., U.S.A., 190^--H A


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Preface'T'HE first thing that a

business man shouldknow, isthe little things of hisbusiness.There is nothing scholarly inthis book of short easy helpsto that which every clothingmaker, buyer, seller and handlershould know, but nine timesout of ten does not know.

This is only a book intendedfor quick reference rather thanthoroughness; it is not evencomplete; but, such as it is,the compilation is reliable. Goto the encyclopedia forexhaustiveness: weVeaccomplished a great deal if thissends you to the encyclopedia.Not one of us knows as muchas we might upon the familiaraspects of our trade.The Editor.

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AAcid TestA general term employed to

designate a means of determining thequality of anything, fabrics for instanceas boiling a piece of suspected cloth ina solution of potash, in which the woolor silk is consumed, but any cottontherein remains ; testing the color ofindigo with a mixture of acetic andsulphuric acids ; etc. For moreexhaustive explanations see any goodencyclopedia.AgraffeAn ornamental clasp, loop orlock.AlbertSee Prince Albert.

Albert ClothReversible all-woolmaterials, each side of different colors,and so finished that no lining isrequired ; used chiefly for overcoats ;better known as "golf cloth," "plaid-backcoverts," etc.

AlizarineAn absolutely fast color dyesubstance, formerly obtained frommadder root, but now in large quantitiesfrom anthracene, a coal-tar product.AlpacaA thin, glistening, double-foldfabric, with a fine cotton warp ; madefrom the curly hair of an animal of thecamel tribe, found in South America.ArmureA cloth woven in miniatureimitation of feudal metal armor plates,

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Hheraldic devices, diamonds, birdseye andseeded effects.AstrakhanA woolen or silk materialwith a long and closely curled pile inimitation of the fur.

BBacked ClothWorsteds or other fabricswhich are woven with an extra layer ofwarp or filling underneath the facefabric, usually for increased weight andbulk.BackshopA tailor's workshop.BannockburnA sort of tweed.BarrackanIn Mediterranean countries acamel's-hair cloth for men's wear ; inEngland a sort of moleskin. Alsospelled barragon.Basket WeaveCloth woven in imitationof basket work.

BastardAny fabric woven in imitationof better and more expensive.Bath RobeA long gown for wearbetween bath room and dressing room.BattingCotton or wool prepared in sheetsfor quilting or interlining ; see padding,BeaverSimilar to Kersey, but withlonger nap ; soft, thick nap inside.BeauA man devoted to the care andadornment of his person and to mattersof social etiquette ; a dandy ; a fop.

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DICTIONARYBeaverteenA sort of heavy cotton terrycloth used for men's hunting garments.Bedford CordA close-woven woolen

cloth, having a raised corded surface,similar to pique.BeltA strap or band worn around thewaist.Belt StrapsLoops or straps sewn atintervals around the waist of trousers,for the insertion and the holding inplace of a belt, the object being todispense with suspenders.

BiasDiagonally.BishopTrade term for extra lengthovercoats for tall men.BlazerA light summer coat, mostfrequently of flannel and in brightcolors.Blind-EyeA practically indistinguishableloop, hand made of thread.BloodA gallant.BlouseA sort of loose overshirt orjacket.

Body CoatA dress coat ; a close-fittingcoat ; a livery coat.BoucleA loosely woven fabric with acurly hair surface, frequently made withjersey or stockinet body.BouretteAn effect of weaving producedby fancy yarns showing in lumps atintervals over the face of the cloth.BournousA long woolen cloak, withhood, worn by men in the Orient.

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HBowLEGGEDParenthetical.BoxcLOTHSimilar to Pilot cloth, thickand fulled, with Kersey face.Box CoatA short, loose-fitting topcoat;

coachman's driving coat.BraidA narrow band or tape made of

plaited silk, wool or cotton ; of variouspatterns.BrandenburgsLong, narrow, ornamentalbuttons, of silk or wool, on a woodenmold ; used chiefly on military overcoats.BreechesKnee trousers.

BrilliantineSee Mohair.BroadclothA very fine woolen clothwith a glossy finished surface, the bettergrades being made with a twilled back.BroadfallsSee "front falls."BuckA dandy.

BuckleA fastening device.BuckramA coarse, heavy, plain-wovenlinen or cotton material used forstiffening.BuckskinA stout doeskin with a moredefined twill.

BushelmanA tailor or workman whodoes alteration and repair work.ButternutThe coarse brown homespuncloths and jeans woven prior to thecivil war. Colored brown with dyefrom the butternut tree.

ButtonA catch of various forms andmaterials for fastening the various partsof a garment. See encyclopedia.[ 8 ]


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D ICTIONARYCamelshairAn extremely soft and silky

fabric usually woven like cheviot.CanonicalsClergymen's official clothing,

as prescribed by canon.Canton FlannelA stout twilled cottoncloth with a nap on one or both sides.CanvasA heavy linen or cotton cloth ofplain weave.

CapeCircular covering for the shouldersthe inside yoke of a coat.Cape CoatAn overcoat with a cape andwith or without sleeves. See Inverness.

Cardigan JacketA close fitting ribbedwoolen or worsted body jacket, with orwithout sleeves.CardTo comb out or dress.CardingThe process of opening up thefibre of wool, flax, hemp, silk, etc., forthe purpose of cleaning them of foreignmatter and rendering the material fineand soft preparatory to spinning it intoyarn.CassimereA general term for all-woolfabrics woven either plain or twilled,coarse or fine, of "woolen" yarn. Thepattern is always woven in plain anddistinct, and the cloth is never napped.CassockA long clerical coat ; a militarycloak.

Castor BeaverA heavy, milled,


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CLOTHESface-finished, all-wool cloth, a littlelighter in weight than ordinary beaver.CheckA small plaid design made bydifferent colors, crossing at right angles.

ChesterfieldA single-breasted, fly-frontovercoat, of medium length, plain backalso a cutaway frock coat for stout men,with four buttons, the top one only used.CheviotA twill-woven, rough-finishedwoolen fabric.ChevronIn weaving, a patterncharacterized by zigzag lines or stripesherringbone.ChinchillaA thick, heavy, doublewoven fabric, with a long napped surface"Curled up into little tufts in imitation ofChinchilla fur.Chin-LatchA small placket for closingthe aperture of a turned-up coat collar.Clan TartanThe plaids of the varioushighland clans of Scotland.ClawhammerSee full dress.ClayA name given to serges, worstedsand diagonals woven after the process ofJ. & B. Clay, of Huddersfield, England.ClerkAn absolutely impeccableindividual.

ClothierOne who sells ready-to-wearclothing.

CoatThe principal garment of men'sattire.CoatingThose woolen and worstedfabrics most particularly adapted to


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DICTIONARYmen's dress and overcoats.

CollarThe neckband of a coat ; adetachable linen neckpiece, etc.

Color TestGeneral term for the variousmeans of determining the purity orfastness of colors, which may be bymeans of exposure, washing, chemicalprocesses, etc. See encyclopedia.CombingThe process of arranging thefibers of wool, mohair, silk, cotton, etc.,into a parallel condition and of equallength, preparatory to spinning into asmooth, even and regular yarn ; theperfected application of the cardingprinciple.

CopeAn ecclesiastical vestment of silkor brocade.

CorduroyA thick cotton pile material,corded or ribbed on the surface.Corkscrew WorstedSo called from itsfancied resemblance to the twists of thecorkscrew.Cotton TestSee Acid Test. There arealso microscopic and other tests. Seeencyclopedia.Cotton WorstedAll cotton or partcotton worsted-wove cloth.CoTTONADEStout cotton cloth in imitationof woolen or worsted trousering.

CountIn spinning, the number given toany thread or yarn (except silk) toindicate its relative fineness, based onthe number of yards required to weigh


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CLOTHESone pound.Counting GlassA magnifying glass withan aperture of defined size, which is amultiple for counting the number ofthreads to the inch or other unit.CovertA twill-woven woolen cloth,sometimes with fulled face, sometimessheared to imitate whipcorda short top coat.CowES CoatSee Dinner Jacket.CoxcombA pretentious, conceited dandy.

CrapeSee Crepe.Crape ClothA stout worsted fabric withsurface in imitation of silk crepe ; mostused for dress coats.CrashA strong, coarse linen cloth. 'CravatA necktie or scarf.

CravenetteCloths treated and finishedbefore weaving by an improved processwhich renders them rainproofa secretprocess owned by the CravenetteCompany and B, Priestley & Co. ofEngland and United States.

CrepeA light weight silk, silk-and-wool,or all-wool cloth of slightly irregularweave.CrotchJuncture of the two halves of atrouser.CrowsfeetA three-pointed embroiderystitch, sometimes used in finishingpockets.CummerbundA broad sash.Cutaway (Frock)A single-breasted coat


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Htwilled fabric of wool, or silk and wool,finished on but one side.Drap d'EteA fine, light worsted fabric,woven in longitudinal cords.DraperA dealer in cloths ; also aclothier, haberdasher or dry goodsmerchant.DrawersUndertrousers.DressIndicating the manner in which aman disposes himself in his trousersas right and left dress.

Dress CoatSee Full Dress,DrillingGeneral term for varioustwilled cotton stuffs used for lining.Sometimes called "drill."

Driving CoatA coat designed forprotection or "style" when driving.A "duster."DuckA sort of fine, firm canvas.DudeIndescribable.DusterA light overcoat of linen, mohairor other thin fabric, once extensivelyworn when traveling or driving.

DyeingThe art and operation of coloringtextile fabrics by immersion in aproperly prepared bath ; dyes are chieflyvegetable or aniline. See encyclopedia.

EEll I % yards.ElvsianOvercoat cloth something like


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D ICTIONARYbut rougher than Chinchilla, straighthair.

EpaulettesShoulder-straps.EsTAMENESimilar to Serge, but having arough, nappy face resembling cheviot.EtamineA light woolen cloth similar toBatiste and Nun's Cloth.Eton JacketA scant sack coat worn bystudents at Eton.Evening DressSee Full Dress.

Faille FrancaiseA soft, lustrous silkfabric of wider cord than grosgrain, butnarrower than ottoman.

Farmer SatinA lining of cotton chainand wool filling, finished with highlustre. Also called Italian cloth.Fast ColorApplied to colors supposednot to fade in washing or throughexposure.

FearnoughtA heavy filled woolen fabricused for sailors' overcoats and clothingsometimes called dreadnought.FellTo turn in a seam.FeltA cloth of wool, hair, fur, etc., notwoven, but matted together.FilibegThe Highland kilt.FillingThe woof or weft threads of awoven fabric.FlannelA soft, light-weight woolen

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Hfabric of which the yarn is but slightlytwisted.FlanneletteA half-cotton or all-cottonflannel-like fabric.

FlapA limber hanging part.Flap PadSee pad and looney.Flat BoundBound with flat braid.FlockFinely powdered woolen waste

used in finishing cheap woolens.FlyThe front opening of a coat ortrousers, so made that the buttons do notshow through the outer face.FopCross between dandy and dude.French BackA false back worn to aworsted-face fabric.French FacingThe inside facing of acoat, extending around the armholes.

French SeamsFirst sewed out the wrongway and then turned in the right wayFriezeA thick, shaggy, heavy nap woolenovercoat cloth.Frock CoatProperly the Prince Albertcoat ; also the cutaway.

FrogOrnamental braided loop-and-button.Front FallsTrousers, not made with asingle fly opening, but with a wide frontflap, buttoning on both sides.Full BoxTrade term for a very looseeffect in overcoats.

Full-DressBlack "claw-hammer" coat,low cut vest and trousers to match.FulledMade thicker and more compactby shrinking.

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DICTIONARYFur BeaverA long-napped clothimitating fur.

GGiggingGiving a nap to woolen cloths,such as broadcloth, beaver, chinchilla,melton, etc.Golf CoatA red flannel coat for golfplaying, single breasted sack style.

GooseA tailor's iron.GoreA triangular piece of cloth let intoa garment ; a gusset.Great CoatA heavy overcoat.

GrosgrainA close-woven, finely ribbedor corded silk fabric with but littleluster.GuaranteedSee Warranted Clothing.GuernseyA close-fitting knitted woolenshirt.GussetSee gore.

HHaberdasherA dealer in men'sfurnishings.HairclothA lining woven of horsehairfor weft with cotton or linen warp.HairlineVery fine lines.HavelockThe light covering, worn bysoldiers and tourists in hot countries.


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Hhanging from a cap, behind the neck.HalflinedTerm applied to garmentsonly partially lined and partially"skeleton."

Hand-paddedTerm referring to under-collars, lapels and inside wadding workedby hand instead of by machine.HerringboneA fishbone woven cloth.HiGH-RisETerm applied to trousers cuthigh in the waist.Hip BootsBoots reaching to the hips.

HollandA fine, stout, plain-wovenunbleached linen cloth, used for linings,etc.HomespunCloth woven at home onhand-looms, or cloth made in imitationof such cloth.

HopsACKiNGA sort of home-spun"in-and-out" woven fabric.HousE-CoATA fancy lounging coat.Hunting CoatA short red cutaway;English.

IIndigoA deep blue dye obtained from

several plants of the genus Indigofera,native of India and Asia and also foundin Africa and South America ; knownfrom most remote times.

IngrainDyed in the yarn with fastcolors.


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HJob LotTerm applied to odd lots of

merchandise set apart for sale at areduced price.

Join-UpThe process of sewing the twohalves of the coat or trousers together.

JourWorkshop abbreviation forjourneyman ; q. v.JourneymanA graduate apprentice ; aworking tailor.JouRYA local familiar name applied to

fellow jours.JumperA workman's loose outerjacket orblouse. KKaikaiA thin, cheap Japanese silkfabric.KerseyA heavy, closely woven cloth

with a smooth face and glossy finish.KerseymereA fine twilled woolen clothof peculiar texture, one thread of warpand two of weft being always above.KhakiA light yellow-brown colored clothused for army service uniforms in hotcountries.

KiltsA plaited skirt, like a Highlander's.Knee BreechesKnickerbockers.KnickerbockerIn weaving an effectproduced by rough knotted yarnssimilar to boucle and bourette.KnickerbockersKnee breeches.


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DICTIONARYKnock-KneedKnees that turn inwardand rub against each other in walking.Ladies-ClothA fine, wide flannel,

slightly napped ; similar to broadcloth.Lap-BoardAn oblong board, round atthe ends, laid on the lap of the workman,upon which the seams and other parts ofthe garment are pressed in the processof making.Lap SeamsSeams made by overlappingor laying on, instead of turning in.LapelThe length of a dress-coat infront, or from the gorge seam in front,down to the waist seam ; the narrowstripsquare at the lower end andangular at the upper endwhich issewed to the front of double-breastedcoats ; the roll or "lay-over" of the frontof a coat.Lapel-SeamThe seam caused by sewingthe back edge of the lapel strip to thefront edge of the fore part becomes the"lapel-seam."

LastingA strong, closely woven doubletwill worsted fabric, mostly used forbuttons and shoe tops.LaventineA thin silk used for sleevelinings.

Left-DressSee Dress.


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HLegginA covering for the leg like a long

gaiter. A protector in cold or wetweather or out-door sports.LevantineA stout twilled silk, each sidefinished equally but of different colors.

LinenGeneral name for yarn spun andcloth woven from the fiber of flax.LiningGeneral term for materials usedfor covering the inner side of a garmentor anything. In men's clothing usuallysilk, Italian cloth, farmer's satin, serge,silesia, brilliantine, etc.Linsey-WoolseyA stout flannel madewith linen warp and wool filling.

ListSelvedge.LiveryThe dress or uniform of servants.Livery ClothSee Boxcloth.LogwoodThe blue-black dye obtainedfrom the tree of that name.Long RollLapels pressed long and low

instead of high.LongsTrade term for ready-madeclothing cut to fit tall, thin men,LooneyAn oblong, flattened pad, used inpressing and giving form to the collar,lapels and shoulders of a coat.Lounge SuitA sack suit.Lounging RobeA long, loose housegown.Low-NeckedA garment is said to be"low-necked" or "long-necked" when thegorge in front is cut low.Low-ShoulderedThe extreme opposite


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DICTIONARYof "high-shouldered."LusTERiNGProcess for giving to woolencloth a smooth, glossy surface that willnot roughen in wear.LusTRENEA thin twilled cotton liningmaterial ; finished with high luster inimitation of silk.M

MacaroniLittle better than a dude.MackintoshA long, loose overcoat ofwaterproof material ; for wear in stormyweather.MacoEgyptian cotton.MadderA vegetable red dye.ManipulatedTerm applied to fabricswhich in weaving are mixed with someinferior substance, as wool and cotton,silk and cotton, etc.

MarseillesA sort of figured pique.MatelasseA silk and wool or all-woolbrocade, usually employed for waistcoats.MauveA reddish purple aniline dye.MelangeA French word signifyingmixture.MeltonA stout woolen cloth, fulled,sheared and finished without a naplikeKersey but without the gloss.MercerizedA term applied to cottonfabrics of which the yarn is chemicallytreated and the fabric finished by a

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Hmechanical process, obtaining theappearance and many of the qualities ofsilk, more or less permanent. Namedafter Mercer, discoverer of process.MerchantOne who buys and sellscommercial commodities.Merchant TailorSee Tailor.MerinoA thin woolen fabric made of thefine wool of the Merino sheep, generallyused for ladies' wear, but also made intovestings and underclothing for men'swear.MerveilleuxA twilled silk, of rathersoft texture, used for linings.Mill EndsTrade term referring to shortlengths, seconds, damaged pieces, etc.,that accumulate in mills and are usuallysold at a nominal price.MillingThe process of fulling orthickening cloth.

MisfitThe term is a terror to tailors.MixtureGeneral term for any melangeweave or effect.MocadoThe mock velvet of the sixteenthand seventeenth centuries ; not nowmade.ModeThe prevailing fashion or custom ;a sort of ecru or tan color.MohairA light, thin, shiny fabric ofenormous durability ; from the wool ofthe Angora goat, found in Asia.MoireThe watered effect produced uponsilk, moreen, etc.

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DICTIONARYMoleskinA medium heavy twilled cotton

cloth, napped inside and printed outside.MoMiEFrench for mummy. A cloth ofpuckered or fluted appearance.MoN key-JacketA short jacket cutin the sack form, fitting closeto the waist and flaring out at thebottom. ,MoNTAGNACA heavy napped cloth, aportion of the nap being woolly lobs, therest straight napped.

MoseyAn under-jacket, usually madeof baize or flannel, and worn instead ofan undershirt, usually under the vest,but over the shirt in cold weather, but inmoderate or warm weather as an outsidegarment, and is also called a "wammus."MothsPests that make business for theclothier and tailor, or disaster, accordingto where they work.MuNGoSee Shoddy.MuslinA cotton fabric of variousclasses and names, all as bleached,unbleached, twilled, cambric, book, mull,longcloth, silesia and a number ofothers ; used extensively in tailoring forlinings and interlinings.

NNail2% inches.NankeenA peculiar fabric of a pale,^5 ]


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DICTIONARYdull orange color, woven outof the fibrous tissue whichlies between the epidermis and thesapwood of a tree or shrub which growsin the East Indies and especially inChina. The name is derived from theimperial city of Nankin or from the treeor shrub which yields the tissue. Animitation is made out of cotton andcolored with aleutta. The genuinenankin is never more than eighteen ortwenty inches wide, and is used generallyfor light summer trousers or forchildren's clothing.NapThe woolly surface of a fabric.NapeThe starting point from which thelength and the shoulder measures aretaken for a coat. A vertebralprotuberance located on the back centralpart of the neck at its junction with thethorax or trunk.

Napier ClothA once-popular double-facecloth for women's wraps, one side wool,the other of hair.Narrow ClothTrade term for fabricsless than 29 inches wide ; wider clothscalled broad.Narrow-FallA small flap closing theopening in the front of trousers, withtwo or three button holes at the top andcorresponding buttons sewed on thewaist-bands, to which it was buttoned.See Front-Falls.

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HNarrow-BoundVery narrow binding,

distinguished from "medium-bound" or"broad-bound."NatteFrench name for basket-weaveeffects.

NeckclothCravat.NecktieCorrectly, a narrow band to betied in front.NeckwearGeneral term for all sorts ofneck dressings.NeedleThey are of various kinds, knownamong tailors as silk-needles, thread-needles, button-needles, basting-needles,etc., and these again are known assharps, blunts, betweens, etc.NegligeEasy and informal dress ; asummer shirt.NewmarketA long, close-fitting overcoatcut in the style of a frock coat ; asurtout.NoilKnots and short bits of wool takenfrom the long staple in combing; wastesilk.Norfolk JacketA single breasted sackcoat having two or three box plaits inback, two in front and a belt of material.Most used for hunting and outdoorsports.Notch-CollarThe distinguishing collarof sack coats.Nun's ClothA soft, firm, clingingwoolen fabric, light and strong ; entiresuit weighs but thirty-two ounces on anaverage.

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DICTIONARYOOil-BoiledTrade term for colors so

treated, to insure permanence.Oiled SilkThe plain silk boiled in oiland dried, becoming translucent and

waterproof ; largely used as a perspirationguard.

OilskinCotton or linen prepared with oilto make it waterproof ; a "slicker."

Old Man's FrockA one-buton cutawayfrock coat, cut rather full in front.OttomanA stout, lustrous silk fabric ofheavier cord than faille.OunceIn woolen trade refers to theweight of a yard of cloth.

Outing ClothA sort of gingham.Outing SuitA lightweight summer suit,usually of flannel.OutletAllowance in seams forincreasing size of garments.OverallsLoose-fitting over-trousers ofduck, denim, etc.OvercoatA coat worn over one's otherclothes ; a top coat ; a great coat.OvercoatingFabrics woven specially forovercoats i. e., covert, kersey, melton,beaver, frieze, vicuna, whipcord, cheviot,chinchilla, montagnac, Shetland, elysian,thibet, etc.

OvERGAiTERA cloth covcring for theupper part of the foot ; "spats."

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HOvERPLAiDApparently a larger plaidwoven on top of a smaller plaid or stripe

design.OvERSACKAn overcoat.OvERSHiRTAn outer or top shirt.OversleeveSeparate sleeves of almostany material worn by bookkeepers,

clerks, etc., to protect shirt or coatsleeves.Oxford MixtureA black-and-whitemixed effect of varying shades ofdarkness.

PadA flat, compact cushion or mattress-shaped implement laid upon thelap-board or any other press-boardand used in "pressing-off" and givingform and finish to a garment. Itselasticity accommodates it to anyinequalities of the garment and thereforethe whole surface is reached by thepressure of the iron and made smootherand solider than it could be withoutits use. See looney.

PaddingFelt, cotton or wool used forgiving shape to garments.PaddockA rather long, slightly form-fitting overcoat, somewhat similar tothe Newmarket.PajamasLoose trousers and blouse of

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DICTIONARYthin material, worn for sleeping orlounging.

PaletotA long, loose overcoat.Paneled BackThe inside back of acoat made with broad facings of thegoods around seams and edges, andfilled in with (panels of) silk or otherlining.PantaloonsTight-fitting trousersbuttoned at the ankles.PantingCloth suitable for trousers.

Paring-OffThe process of paring-offthe surplus cloth along the margin ofa garment, when the edges are maderaw.Paring-ShearsShears or scissors madeexpressly for paring the edges ofgarments.PasteFormerly used to stiffen coats,but now entirely obsolete.Patch PocketsPockets made whollyon the outside of a garment.Patent BeaverSimilar to CastorBeaver with more of a cloth finish.Pea JacketA short coat of thickclosely woven cloth, worn in roughweather.Peau de SoieHeavy, soft finished, plaincolored silk, woven in very fine ribs.

PeddlerA peripatetic merchant.PegtopTrousers cut wide and fullaround the hips and narrowing sharplydown to the ankle.

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CLOTHESPepper-and-SaltA black-and-white orgrayish mixture, effected in weaving.PercalineA fine light-weight cotton

lining material.PerchingExamining and correctingraw woolen cloth for and of knots, burs,holes and other imperfections beforefilling.PetershamA heavy woolen, woven orfelted kind of cloth for overcoating.It has a rough, knotty surface, and issometimes called "nigger-head." Avery heavy, close-felted kind of thiscloth is also called "cordington" ; thefiner, softer kinds "chinchilla."PickThe number of threads within agiven space.

PiEciNG-OuTThe act of sewing togetherthe pieces, which sometimes occur inthe facings of garments, is called"piecing them out." "Dograbbiting."

PiGEON-ToEDThe toes inclining orpointing inward.

Pilot ClothA medium heavy, smooth,blue cloth similar to Kersey or Beaver,minus the nap.Pink CoatEnglish name for red huntingand golf coats.Pin CheckA very fine small check.

Pin RibA very delicate rib or cord.PipingA covered cord for trimming,applied along edges and seams.

PiqueA heavy cotton fabric having a[ 3^ ]


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DICTIONARYsurface that is corded or having araised lozenge pattern.

PlaidColored bars or stripes crossingeach other at right angles ; a tartan, akilt.

PlaitA flattened fold or gather.PlyA fold or thickness.P. M.Premium money given clerks for

disposing of slow-selling goods.PocketsThings to carry things in.PongeeA homewoven plain silk.PopinjayA chattering coxcomb.Pricked EdgesBackstitched by hand so

that no seam is apparent.Prince AlbertA double-breasted, frock

coat, cut form-fitting.PrunellaLasting cloth.PutteeA legging that looks like asurgical bandage.

QQuadrilleSmall squares or checks ;shepherd checks.Quilted LiningA layer of cotton battingfaced on one or both sides with silk,satin or other cloth, and sewed togetheror quilted in fancy patterns.

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HRRaglanA loose overcoat, the sleeves of

which are continued over the shouldersup to the collar. Named after LordRaglan, who devised a similar garmentfor the protection of his soldiersduring the Crimean war, the idea beingto increase their fighting efficiency bythe greater freedom of action affordedby the peculiar shoulder.Rain CoatA mackintosh or waterproofgarment.Raw EdgesOpen edges of the goodsnot turned in.Raw SeamsSee Raw Edges.RayeFrench textile term for pattern ofdelicate stripes or narrow lines.

RedingoteA double breasted outsidecoat with long plain skirts ; a Frenchcorruption of the English riding coat.

ReeferA short round coat or jacket.RegularClothing trade term for normalor standard sizes, from which longs,stouts, slims, etc., are variations.

RepellentA sort of waterproof clothof wool, wool-and-cotton or all cotton.

ReverA turned back lapel or cuff.RiGBY ClothA sort of waterproof cloth,chemically treated.

Right DressSee Dress.Roll CollarA plain collar without

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DICTIONARYpeak or notch ; a show collar.RoundaboutA short jacket reaching tothe waist.Rowing ShirtA low-necked shirt withvery large deep armholes.Rubber ClothUsually cotton sheetingor drilling with a coating of rubberon one side ; used for mackintoshes andsometimes for interlining ulsters.RugA traveling shawl or blanket.

SabretacheA leather pocket hung fromthe left side of the sword hilt ; apopinjay ornament.SackA business coat with pockets,made single and double breasted ; aloose Chesterfield overcoat.

Saddle SeamsSewn as saddlers sewleather.

SalesmanMasculine of saleslady.SashA waist-scarf.SateenA close twilled cotton fabric,soft and glossy ; used for linings, etc.

SatinA silk fabric having a very highluster on its face.

Satin RhadameA lustrous silk satin,the face crossed and broken by finetwilled lines, extending diagonallyacross the web.

SatinetA cheap clothing material35


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Hsimilar to cassimere, made with acotton warp and a filling of short,inferior or shoddy wool, which is mixedwith enough long wool to enable it tobe spun and woven in a way to bringthe filling to the surface of the clothafterwards fulled, sheared and thepattern printed on the face.

ScarfA cravat.ScHAPPESilk fabrics woven of wasteand damaged cocoons.Schooner PantsSpring bottoms, afterthe sailor style.Scotch MixturesHard to describe ; ifyou don't know ask a woolen housefor samples.

ScYEThe arm hole of a garment.SeamsThat part of the fabric used insewing together.SelvedgeThe web edge of cloth ; list.SergeA fine diagonal twilled worsted

both all-worsted and with a worstedwarp and "woolen" filling.SergeA lining of cotton or linen warpand wool or mohair filling, woventhree-leaf twill.ShawlA square cloth wrap.Shawl CollarA rounding collarwithout notches ; see roll-collar.Shepherd CheckTiny checks, usuallyblack and white.ShetlandsVery shaggy overcoating,named from the Shetland pony, the coat

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DICTIONARYof which it is supposed to imitate inappearance.

ShirtwaistA test of masculinefortitude during the summer of 1901.ShoddyWaste thrown off in spinning;shredded rags and bits of cloth to bemanipulated into new cloth ; a cheapinferior cloth.Shooting CoatA sack coat of corduroy,duck, etc., with capacious pockets,used by sportsmen.

Shooting JacketSee shooting coat.ShopStore.Short StoutTrade term for garmentsbuilt for short, stout people.ShrinkTo contract or take up all lossof length ; to sponge.

ShroudThe last garment we wear.SicilianA plain-woven mohair fabricsee Brilliantine ; Mohair.

SilesiaA light close-woven fine-twilledcotton lining fabric.

SingeTo remove the warp from textilefabrics by fire or heat.

SizesTrade term for an assortment ora range of sizes and shapes.Skating JacketA short snug-fitting coat.SkeletonTerm applied to a coatmade without lining.

SkirtThe lower or hanging part of acoat.SlimsTrade term for garments designedfor slim people.

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CLOTHESSmall FallsSee narrow-falls and

front tails.SmallsClose fitting knee breeches.Smoking JacketA fancy coat forhouse (smoking) wear.

SockMuch less euphonious than hose,Soft RollLapel or front of coat madewithout stiffening and lightly pressedinto a long roll.

SpatterdashA sort of overgaiter orlegging.

SpencerA very short overcoat notfully covering the undercoat.SpiffPremium or bonus.Splay-FootedToes turning outward.SpongeTo dampen for ironing, pressing

or cleaning or preparatory to cutting;to shrink.

Stable SuitA stable uniform.StapleThe fibre of any material, as

long or short, staple, wool or cotton.StaysCorsets.StockA twice around the neck dressing.StockinetA plain, elastic texturemade on a knitting frame.StockingHose.Storm CoatA rain-proof coat

mackintosh, ulster.StoutsTrade term for garments madefor stout persons.Strap SeamsSeams with a strip of

cloth laid over.Surah SilkTwilled similar to woolen[ 38 ]


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CLOTHE!a tuck and a plait.Turn-OverThe turned in extremityof trouser legs and sleeves.Turn-UpThe bottom of trousers.TuxedoSee Dinner Jacket.

Tw^EEDAn open, soft, flexible twilledcloth, closely spun and finely woven,but slightly fulled.TwilledWoven in such manner asto produce lines or ribs diagonally oracross the surface of the fabric.u

UlsterA long, loose, heavy overcoatfor rough weather wear.

UndercoatThe body-coat.UndercollarThe under side of acollar ; usually, but not necessarily, ofsofter material.Unfinished WorstedA soft dullfinished cloth, slight nap.

UniformLivery distinguishing themembers of some military, naval orcivil body, or employes of clubs,corporations, etc.Uniform ClothCloth suitable foruniforms ; usually a stout fulled woolencloth, similar to Kersey.Union CassimereOf a quality withsatinet, but with a woven instead ofprinted pattern.

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DICTIONARYVVelvetA closely woven silk material

with short thick pile on one side.VelveteenCotton velvet.VenetianA cloth milled and croppedbare in finishing.VentAn outlet ; q. v.VestSee waistcoat.VestmentAn ecclesiastical garment.VicunaA soft twilled cloth similarto Cheviot, made of the wool of theAndes vicugna.

wWaddingThe tailor's expedient formaking a lanky customer look well inthe eyes of his girl and fellowcreatures ; see Padding.

WaistcoatVulgarly a "vest."WaleA ridge or streak rising abovesurface of cloth, running entire lengthor width.Walking CoatA compromise betweena single breasted sack and a cutawayfrock, more nearly resembling thelatter, but shorter and with pocketflaps on hips.WammusA sort of Cardigan jacket,

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DICTIONARYX YYacht ClothA flannel heavier than

ordinary flannel or serge, price dyed.YarnThread for knitting or weaving.YokeA band or cross piece to whichother parts of garment are attached.Yoke CoatA coat with a yoke.

Zouave JacketA short jacket reachingabout to the waist, and cutaway infront.

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This being incomplete the Editor is desirousof hearing from those who know of otherdefinitions overlooked, or of errors in thiscompilation.Some credit is due to "Cole's Dictionary of

Dry Goods," some to "The American Tailorand Cutter," some to Mrs. Alice Morse Earle,et al, but most largely to the people in the storeand in the work shopthe people who make anduse the lingo. The Editor.

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THEGIST-OF-THINGSLIBRARYConsists of a series of brief booklets onclothes making, clothes knowledge andclothes selling, of which this is thesecond issue, the same preceded by

/. Warranted ClothingA new edition of a little book of whichwe have already distributed over 20,000copies; contains much new matter.And these will be followed by

///. Advertising PhrasesBy William Henry Baker, manager ofour advertising department.Reprinted from Chat^ with variousadditions^ and properly classified.

IF. Sartor HistoricusHistorical matter from Chat and otherpublications, illustrated.

V. Good Thingsfrom ChatA republication of some of the bestoriginal and reprint matter thatappeared in Chat from November 1900to October 1901.Other issues will be announced laterPrice 5 Cents Per Copy

except volume i which is sent freeOne copy of each volume will be sent free of

charge to customers, as issued. Others desiringthem are requested to send the price.Cahn, Wampold & Co.CHICAGO


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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

Documents

(1901) Clothes Dictionary