100 of garments

8/13/2019 100 of garments

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Glossary of garments&Febrics

100's Two-Ply Broadcloth (fine)

A premium shirting fabric made with two-ply threads (two individual threads are twisted together)

which make it durable, soft, and lustrous.140's Broadcloth (very fine)

A very luxurious yarn, the higher thread count and resulting closeness of weave gives it a superior hand

and remarkable luster.

200's Two-Ply Broadcloth (extremely fine)

Woven from some of the finest cottons in the world, our 200's Two-Ply Cotton offers an extremely silky

touch and incredibly fine patterns.

" Top Stitch

A more traditional tailoring feature, stitching on the collar and cuff is " from the edge versus edge-

stitching which is flush with the edge.

5-Pocket

Modeling most commonly associated with denim jeans, five-pockets style puts a more casual spin on

your trouser with 2 front pockets, a front coin pocket and patch rear pockets.

7 fold

The ultimate in neckwear craft. Silk fabric is folded seven times for a more robust tie. The thickness and

absence of lining makes for a well balanced tie that drapes and knots perfectly.

A [back to top]Argyle

An intarsia knit characterized by colored diamond shapes. Argyle designs are common in sweaters and

socks.

B [back to top]Bamboo

A natural, renewable resource that is, much like cotton, machine washable, strong and hypoallergenic,

making it the perfect fabric for extra sensitive skin. Bamboo fabric is luxuriously soft, similar to thesoftness and look of silk. It is extremely breathable and comfortable against skin. Bamboo absorbs and

wicks moisture away from the skin, keeping you cooler and drier than synthetics or cotton. The natural

antifungal agent "bamboo kun" deters bacteria and pests from the bamboo, making the use of

pesticides or herbicides unnecessary..

Band Collar

A collar that stands up straight and encircles the neck, without any turndown collar points. Paul

Fredrick banded collars have a 1" stand.

Basketweave

A variation of a plain weave in which two or more warp (horizontal) yarns

and one or more weft (vertical) yarns are interlaced as one. These yarns are

placed into the woven construction flat and continue to run parallel to oneanother throughout. Resembles a miniature braided basket.

Bengal Stripe

A wider color stripe that alternates with a narrower white stripe.

Besom Pocket

A set-in pocket cut into the garment with access through a welted slit-type opening. Found on shirts

and trousers.


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Bias

The bias direction of the fabric is diagonally across the grain. While a true bias is cut at a 45 degree

angle to the fabric's warp (horizontal) and weft (vertical) threads, a bias cut is any direction in the fabric

which does not exactly flow in the direction of the length or width of a fabric. A bias cut also provides for

greater stretch, or give in the fabric.

Biotech

A natural process finishes the pure wool fabric without chemical components. Environmentally-

friendly, high-performance. Found in the Paul Fredrick Luxury Italian Blazer, making for a remarkably

soft and durable garment.

Bird's Eye

A weave that is comprised of small repetitive diamond shapes resembling a bird's eye. Usually found

on blazers, trousers and socks. This classic fabric also lends subtle texture to fine dress shirts and

suitings.

Blazer

A type of jacket. Although it resembles a suit jacket it is a more casual coat, often with metal buttons.

Boxer Shorts

A man'sundergarment often made in cotton or silk, based on the garment worn in the sport of boxing.

Brass

A metal alloy of copper and zinc.

Broadcloth

A dense, tightly woven fabric. It is lustrous and soft with a good texture and a smooth finish.

Broadcloth tends to wear very well and is machine washable.

Business Casual CollectionA Paul Fredrick Collection. Easy, refined garments that are traditionally considered more appropriate in

a casual business setting.

Buttondown Collar

A collar that is secured to the shirt by small buttons on both points for both a stylish and practical look.

The buttondown collar was introduced in England during the 1800s to help polo players keep their

collars in place while playing. The buttondown collar is hence considered a more sporty look.

Click here for a visual comparison of our Dress Shirt collars.

C [back to top]Cable Knit

A knitting pattern in which cables appear to twist around one another.

Calfskin

A smooth-surfaced, fine-grained, durable leather from the hide of a calf. It does not scuff easily,

stretches only moderately, and cleans well.

Camelhair

A soft and luxurious fabric made with hair sheared from a Bactrian camel. Camelhair is most often used

in the construction of suits and jackets. Similar to wool, it provides excellent warmth, but is lighter in

weight.


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Camp Shirt

A button-front shirt with a collar and no neckband. The shirt produces a casual look with its straight

hem, boxy cut, and vented sides for wear in or out.

Cap

A form of headwear. The crown of a cap fits closer than that of a hat, and they do not have a brim,although a visor is usually present. Caps are typically designed for warmth and, when including a visor,

blocking the sun from the eyes.

Cap Toe

A separate piece of material covering the toe section of a shoe for reinforcement and/or decoration;

usually used on oxford-style shoes.

Car Coat

A length coat that is historically known as comfortable option for driving since the 1950s.

Cardigan

A collarless sweater that buttons or zips down the front. Originally used as an extra layer for warmthunder military uniforms. A classic piece for any wardrobe.

Cashmere

An extremely soft and lightweight luxury fiber combed from the undercoat of the long-haired Kashmir

goat. Cashmere has a soft and silky finish and is most commonly woven or knit to produce sweaters,

suits, coats, and other winter accessories.

Chalk Stripe

Evenly spaced, soft, thin white or light stripes woven into dark fabric. A classic yet elegant look.

Chevron

A pattern characterized by inverted V's. In the 1820s Chevron patterns characterized Art Nouveau

design.Chino

A type of cotton twill that can be finished with a smooth or mercerized brushed surface. Originially

used as summer uniforms for the U.S. Army because their durability. Washes and wears extremely wel l.

Club Collar

Part of Eton Colleges dress code in the 1800s, the rounded edges of the collar look best on thin faces.

The softness of the points softening sharp vertical lines.

Collar

Click here for a visual comparison of our Dress Shirt collars.

Collar Bar

A pin or a clip that secures the two ends of a dress shirt collar together and lies underneath the knot of

a necktie.

Collar StayA small tab that is inserted inside of the collar, running down to the collar points. Allows for an overall

better shape, fit and roll of a collar.

Comfort Waistband

A waistband characterized by an elastic quality that offers more give and comfort.

Continuous Collar/Cuff

A fashionable shirt style in which the fabric for the collar and cuff is cut on the cross (vertical) allowing

for the shirt pattern to flow in a continuous direction from the body to collar and cuff.


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Contrasting Collar

A shirt collar that is a different color or pattern than the rest of the shirt.

Corduroy

A fabric composed of twisted fibers that lie in distinctive vertical or horizontal rows. Each row, known

as a wale, can vary in width. Corduroy wears well, has a soft luster, and is typically used for pants, sport

coats, and shirts.

Cotton

Gathered from the seed pods of the cotton plant, the fiber is most often spun into yarn or thread and

used to make a soft, breathable textile. The most widely used natural-fiber cloth in clothing today,

cotton fibers have a high degree of strength, durability, and absorbency. There are several grades of

cotton; Egyptian cotton is considered to be the finest, with Sea Island as its domestic counterpart.

Although less expensive, Pima cotton is also of high quality due to its extra-long staple fibers.

Covered Placket

A button or zipper closure that is hidden under a fold of cloth. Also called a "Fly Front." See also

"Placket"

Crystal

A clear, colorless glass of superior quality.

Cuff

Paul Fredrick Dress Shirts have 5 different types of cuff or sleeve combinations:

Single Button Cuff Double Button Cuff Mitered Cuff French Cuff Short SleevesCummerbund

A broad waistband worn with a tuxedo The pleats, always facing up, were originally used to hold

theater tickets.

Cutaway Collar

A collar whose points are pulled back to the side to allow full view of the necktie knot. This is ideal for

wide and prominent neckwear that requires an unimpeded presentation.

D [back to top]Dash Stripes

A pattern of stripes in varying widths of two or more colors.

Deco

A style of design marked by geometrics motifs, bold colors, sharply defined outlines, curvilinear and

stylized forms.

Dobby

Refers to the dobby attachment on a weaving machine, or fabric constructed with this attachemnt.

Fabric made up of a decorative weave, usually characterized by small geometric or dot designs. Dobby

fabrics are perfect for dress shirts as they are generally fine and flat.

Donegal

Dating back to the 1800s, a knit or tweed with coarse, nubby multicolored yarns that are combined

with single-colored yarns to produce a mottled effect.


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Double Breasted

Refers to a sportscoat, jacket, or similar garment having a wide overlapping of the front flaps and two

parallel columns of buttons. A functional inner-button, called the jigger, usually is added to fasten the

over-lapped layers together, from the inside. In most double-breasted coats, one column of buttons is

decorative, the other functional. Popular double-breasted stylings are 6-on-2 in which there are six

buttons, four decorative and two functional and 6-on-1 in which only one of the six buttons is functional.

Double-Faced Fabric

Having a finished face on both sides so that either may be used as the outer, or right side. This makes

for a polished look. On sport shirts, double-faced fabric allows for a clean appearance when rolling up

sleeves or leaving the shirt unbuttoned layered over one of our comfortable tees.

Double Press Turnback Placket

The fabric on the left front panel is folded over to create the placket allowing stability and durability

without the use of interlining. Also called "French Fly Front". See also "Placket"

Double Reverse Pleats

Trousers with pleats open to the pockets. The first pleat is a 1" depth and second pleat is a " depth.

D-Ring

An adjustable ring on waistband allowing for a better fit without the need for a belt.

Driving MoccasinThis shoe is characterized by a rubber outsole that extends over the heel, usually in the form of rubber

nubs, thereby allowing the wearer to easily rest on a surface, such as while driving (hence the name),

without ruining or scuffing the leather on the heel of the shoe.

E [back to top]Edge Topstitch

There are two types of stitching for collars:

Edge Topstitch

" Topstitch.

Embedded Collar Stay

In addition to the removable collar stay, this is an added small piece of collar stay that is sewn into the

point seam of the collar to give more stability to the collar point. This added piece will prevent the collar

points from curling under after several washings. The embedded collar stay is used in the following

collars with quarter inch topstitch: Traditional Straight Collar, Windsor Spread Collar, Park Avenue

Spread Collar and Double Button Band Spread Collar

Embossed

Raised or relief patterns on the surface of the fabrics produced by using pressure in conjunction withengraved rollers and heat applications.

Enamel

Protective and decorative. An opaque, glass-like composite fused to metal, glass or pottery. Used on

select Paul Fredrick cufflinks.

End-on-End

A shirting fabric where a colored yarn is woven in one direction and white yarn is woven in the other to

produce a textured effect


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English Spread Collar

A wider spread than the Windsor Spread Collar with longer points.

English Tab Collar

The tab collar holds the tie perfectly in place using a snap or button that brings the collar points closer

together, creating an always neat appearance. Click here for a visual comparison of Dress Shirt collars.

Epaulet (Epaulette)

French for "little shoulder", epaulettes are bands of fabric, often attached with a button, that adorn

the shoulders of a jacket or coat. They were originally used as insignia or rank by the military and other

organizations.

Essentials Collection

A Paul Fredrick Collection. A collection of business wardrobe classics every well-dressed man should

have in his closet.

European Straight Collar

An edge stitched straight collar for a slightly more modern look. Click here for a visual comparison of

Dress Shirt collars.

Eyelet Collar

Reminiscent of the Gatsby years, the eyelet collar allows for the use of a collar pin to hold the points in

place.Fabric Care

Click here for detailed fabric care instructions.

Fedora

Classic hat style traditionally made of soft felt, however straw and twill fabrics can also be used. The

hat is creased lengthwise down the crown and pinched in the front on both sides. For added interest

some fedoras include small feathers which are inserted in the band around the crown.

Fiber

The basic element from which yarns are made.

Field Jacket

Of military origin, the Paul Fredrick field jacket is characterized by large lower bellowed pockets and

two breast pockets.Five-Pocket

See "5-Pocket"

Flannel

A soft woven fabric. Usually a twill weave that is slightly napped, or brushed on both sides for

additional warmth and comfort.

Flat Front

Trousers without pleats. A sleek, clean look.

Fly Front

See "Covered Placket"

French Facing

See "Scalloped Facing"

French Fly

Paul Fredrick uses a one-piece fly used in dress pants. The French fly helps to ensure that the pant front

lies flat for a neater, cleaner appearance.


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Fully Fashioned

A fully fashioned knit is an indication of a better quality. Compared to a cut-and-sewn knit where the

separate pieces are sewn together, fully fashioned is a method of knitting a garment in which the

complete unit is shaped and knit on the machine as it is formed. A fully fashioned knit is characterized

by fashion marks around the armhole (shoulder) and neckline. The portions of a garment are shaped by

increasing or decreasing the number of loops in the width of the fabric, such a narrowing and widening

produces the shape of the garment. This results in an overall better fit.

Fully Lined

See "Lining"

Gabardine

A tightly woven combed yarn characterized by vertical twill lines created by using more threads in the

warp (horizontal) than weft (vertical.)

Gauge

A unit of measure abbreviated as GG. Expressed by the number of needles of a knitting machine in a

1"-1.5" area in the production of a knit garment or fabric. As a general rule, the higher the gauge, the

finer the fabric, whereas the lower the gauge, the bulkier the knit. Commonly used gauges range from

9GG-16GG.

Gingham

A plain woven fabric typically of a checked pattern in white and

another color. Usually made of cotton, gingham is associated with check,

plaid or stripe patterns.

Glen Plaid

A fabric featuring a design of small and large woven checks.

Gold Plated

A thin coating of gold over an alloy metal.

Grosgrain

A type of fabric characterized by its ribbed appearance. It is most often used to refer to ribbon.

GuabelloDistinguished Italian Mill. The finest materials, refined finishing techniques, Lanificio Gaubello's over

150 years of experience give their fabric a unique and exceptional quality. Singular comfort. Remarkable

softness. Quite possibly the finest wool in the world.

Guage

A unit of measure abbreviated as GG. Expressed by the number of needles of a knitting machine in a

1"-1. " area in the production of a knit garment or fabric. As a general rule, the higher the gauge, the


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finer the fabric, whereas the lower the gauge, the bulkier the knit. Commonly used gauges range from

9GG-16GG.

H [back to top]Half Canvas Construction

The inner canvas layer of the suit that gives it shape, structure, and strength. While

you can't see it, this all important part not only shapes the suit from the start, but also has a memory for

your shape, giving you a better fit. This feature really does separate one suit from another.Half-Lining

A half lined jacket is lined on the top half and sleeve, but the bottom half is not lined and the seams are

taped for a clean finish. Half lined is usually done on jackets with lightweight fabric, so the lining doesn't

add weight to the jacket.

Half-Rimmed

Eyeglasses rimmed only on the top or only on the bottom of the lens.

Hand

The hand describes the overall qualities of a fabric. Such qualities as softness, silkiness, etc are revealed

through the sense of touch.

Handcrafted

A work produced by hand labor. A selection of our cufflinks are skillfully handcrafted in a small mill in

Florence, Italy. The mill is home to some of the most creative designers and skilled cufflink craftsman

who take tremendous pride in creating the best quality cufflinks in Italy. Each Swarovski stone is

carefully hand placed while the enameling, also done by hand, is placed with absolute precision. From

creating the first mold of solid brass to the beautifully polished finish, these Italian individually

handcrafted elegant cufflinks are perfect for the guy looking for true quality at an affordable price. All of

our shoes come directly from small mills in Italy, where skilled craftsmen oversee the construction of our

shoes in every step of the finishing process through the final polish. We work with these mills to design

the most exquisite and unique shoes possible, offering our customer nothing but the best quality and

value.

Handmade

Made by hand or hand process. Seven fold ties set themselves apart from a standard tie with their

superior construction. Roughly a square yard of silk (usually two or more pieces sewn together) is foldedto create seven sections of silk between the folds. The weight and body of this tie are derived from the

layering of silk and typically requires an hour or more to construct. Every section is hand stitched with

exquisite detail and constructed entirely out of the same silk fabric front to back. Seven fold ties are

untipped or unlined, as they are made completely out of luxurious silk. These handmade ties were once

a traditional craft that is now nearly all but forgotten in an effort for most tie makers to cut costs. All of

our other handmade ties are cut by hand from generous amounts of silk. The generous pieces of silk

allow all three parts of the tie to be cut fully on the bias (or diagonal) and also ensures that there is


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sufficient silk to create a deep fold at the back of the tie, which gives the tie a more luxurious feel. After

cutting the three silk tie parts, the blade, neck and tail are joined together and tipping is then sewn into

the blade and the tail of the tie. The Paul Fredrick label is then hand-stitched on the back as the finishing

touch.

Heather Yarns

A yarn consisting of differently colored fibers that are blended together to give a soft, muted look.

Heathered yarns got their name because of the purple color they portrayed when used in early tweeds

which resembled heather-covered moors.

Herringbone

A variation on a twill weave fabric, in which the twill is reversed, or broken

at regular intervals, producing a distinctive V pattern resembling the skeleton

of a herring fish.

Hidden Buttondown Collar

Similar in appearance to the straight collar, buttons hidden underneath the points hold the collar in

place.

High TwistFabric with the sense of cool touch and superb surface by using high twist yarn; good drape,excellent elasticity.Unparalleled drape and wrinkle resistance.

Houndstooth

A fabric with distinctive broken checks that resembles the jagged back teeth

of a hound. This staple pattern, once popular with hunting clothing, is often

found in shirts, sportcoats, suits and trousers.

I [back to top]Imperial 100's cotton broadcloth

A premium shirting fabric made with two-ply threads (two individual threads are twisted together)

which make it durable, soft, and lustrous.Inside Pockets

Paul Fredrick sportcoats and suit jackets are constructed with four inside pockets: two breast pockets,

one on each side, with a security flap on wearer's right side pocket, one pen and one cell phone pocket

on left inside.

Intarsia

A design created by knitting colored yarns on both sides of a fabric. Intarsia designs are usually isolated

forms, not repeat patterns.

Interlock

Knitted with closely interlocking stitches, this fabric maintains an exceptionally smooth hand, good

drape and provides a little extra stretch for increased comfort.

Ivy Cap

See "Cap"

Jacquard

A fabric with a design woven into it. The word jacquard comes from the nineteenth-century French

inventor of the special loom this elaborate fabric is woven on, Joseph Marie Jacquard. The jacquard

attachment allows for any pattern, no matter how large, small or intricate to be woven in a fabric.

Jersey

Jersey was first made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast and used for fisherman's clothing.


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Today it is commonly found in t-shirts and is very resilient with fine draping qualities and crease-

resistance. Jersey wears and washes well.

Keyhole Buttonhole

Found on all Paul Fredrick jackets and sportcoats. Characterized by a round hole at the end of the slit to

accommodate all types of buttons without distorting the fabric.

Knit

A process of making a fabric or garment with hand- or machine-made interlocking looped stitches, first

used for making stockings. Although knitting was not a common use for making clothing until the 19th

Century, they are now a comfortable, easy wardrobe staple.

Lambswool

A soft, smooth, resilient wool yarn from the first shearing of a sheep younger than eight months old.

Fine grade wool.

Lapel

The turned-back front section of a jacket or coat that connects to the collar and forms a "V" where the

jacket or coat closes. See also Notch Lapel and Peak Lapel

Leather

A material created through the tanning of the skin or hide of an animal. There are many different

finishes which can be used including sueding, glazing, embossing, etc.Linen

A natrual fiber produced from the stem of the flax plant. Stronger, stiffer, and more lustrous than

cotton, it yields cool absorbent fabrics that wrinkle easily. An easy and ideal summertime fabric with its

breathable qualities.

Lining

Jackets can be fully lined or half lined. A fully lined jacket is lined on the entire inside so no seams

show. A half lined jacket is lined on the top half and sleeve, but the bottom half is not lined and the

seams are taped for a clean finish. Half lined is usually done on jackets with lightweight fabric, so the

lining doesn't add weight to the jacket.

Loafer

Loafers are low, step-in shoes with no shoelaces or buckles, often made of leather or suede. The loaferis a classic style with a broad flat heel. Variations would include the penny loafer and tassel loafer.

Long Staple Cotton

Cotton whose fibers are over 1 1/8 inches long. Longer staples cottons create increased durability and

hand (how pleasing the fabric feels) of the garment because they can be spun into finer threads than

shorter lengths of cotton.

Luxury 140's Cotton Broadcloth

A very luxurious yarn, the higher thread count and resulting closeness of weave gives it a superior hand

and remarkable luster.

Luxury 200's Cotton Broadcloth

Woven from some of the finest cottons in the world, our Luxury 200's Two-Ply Cotton offers an

extremely silky touch and incredibly fine patterns.

Lycra

A trademark DuPont fiber that has incredible flexibility and recovery. Lycra is a brand-name spandex

that is usually woven with other fibers to provide ease of movement in fabrics.

Madder

Refers to a natural dye used since ancient times, although it has since been translated into synthetic

dye. Most commonly used on silk, it creates beautiful deep, muted, soft colorations usually paired with

paisley and small geometric patterns in neckties.


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Madras

A bold plaid plain-weave fabric. This lightweight fabric was originally hand woven in Madras, India from

cotton yarns dyed with native vegetable colorings.

Medalian

A piece of carved or engraved metal that is usually circular in shape. Can also represent a medallion

print on fabric.

Melange

Refers to two different color threads twisted together, creating a heather effect.

Mercerized Cotton

A special kind of cotton yarn that is more lustrous than conventional cotton. It is also stronger, takes

dye easily, makes the yarn more resistant to mildew and reduces lint. Mercerized yarn stays shiny

through washing and gives a nice, somewhat fancier look to finished items. Mercerization is named for

John Mercer, who developed the process and received a patent for his work in 1851. Mercer found that

adding caustic soda or sulfuric acid to cotton made the fiber swell and straighten. However, in 1890

Horace Lowe developed a process by which caustic soda was added to the yarn under high tension,

which added the luster that mercerized cotton is famous for today.

Merino Wool

A better-quality wool yarn made from the fleece of merino sheep. Merino sheep are said to have thefinest and softest wool of any sheep.

Microfiber

Continuous filament fibers that can be spun to be thinner than a silk thread and therefore allows

manmade fibers to have an array of aesthetic and performance qualities. Microfiber is used to make

non-woven, woven and knitted fabrics. The combinations of synthetic fibers can add specific

characteristics, such as softness, durability, absorption, wicking abilities and water repellency.

Mock Neck

A knit pullover finished at the neckline with a short, fitted knit band that does not fold over. An

abbreviated version of the turtleneck.

Modal

Fiber made by spinning reconstituted cellulose from beech trees. Textiles made from Modal have soft,smooth surfaces are water-absorbent and resistant to shrinkage and fading.

Moleskin

A heavy cotton fabric, woven and then sheared to create a short soft pile on one side. Well-known for

its buttery-soft, almost suede-like hand, moleskin cotton is also long-wearing and substantial.

Monk Strap

A casual or dress shoe with a single or double strap closure, usually with an adjustable buckle.

Mother-of-Pearl

The lining of an oyster or type of mullusk which is iridescent and lustrous. This high quality, luxurious

material is often used in cufflinks.

MP3 Pocket

Found on certain sportcoats, the convenient interior MP3 pocket has a safety closure and ear bud

Nano Technology

Provides liquid and stain repellency, shape retention and resistance to creasing.

Nested Suit

A suit in which jacket and trousers are sold together. The nested suit also sometimes includes a vest.

Compare to Suit Separates in which jacket and trousers are sold separately.

Newsboy Cap

See "Cap"


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Non-Iron Cotton

Enjoy the comfort of cotton without the wrinkles for a clean, crisp presentation. Garments which are

'non-iron' have seams which are taped to prevent puckering. The completed garment is [then] treated

with an ammonia process, pressed and baked to make the entire garment wrinkle free. Paul Fredrick

dress shirts are machine washable and should not be dry cleaned.

Notch Lapel

A collar that has a triangular notch where the lapel meets the collar. This is traditional on single-

breasted suits, and is used on most Paul Fredrick suit jackets, blazers, and sportcoats.

Nylon

A synthetic fiber that is silky, strong and higly resilient. Nylon was originally introduced in the 1940s by

DuPont for women's stockings. However, it is widely used today and is often combined with other fibers

to increase durability. Nylon has definitely paved the way for easy-care garments.

O [back to top]

OltolinaOltolina produces fabrics for high quality shirts for international markets. It has a modern machinery

and 150 skilled workers subdivided between the production in Asso and the finishing in Busto Arsizio.

The classical and fancy fabrics of cotton are woven using the most precious twisted yarns in the world.

Ombre Plaid

A plaid in which the colors transition by way of fading.

Ottoman

Long staple plain weave with a horizontal cord or ribbed effect.

Oxford

A weave in which the warp (horizontal) has two fine yarns paired together and one heavier softly-spun

weft (vertical) yarn, which gives the fabric a subtle basket-weave look and a lustrous finish. Well known

for men's shirts, it is also used for summer jackets and sportswear. Originated by a Scottish mill, oxford

was one of their four shirting fabrics named after famous universities, along with Harvard, Yale and

Cambridge.

Paisley

A swirled tear-drop shape pattern commonly found in neckties.

Panama

A Panama hat is a traditional brimmed hat that is made from the plaited leaves of the panama-hat

palm (Carludovica palmata). Despite the name, genuine Panama hats are made in Ecuador, not Panama.

Park Avenue Spread CollarThe middle ground between a Traditional straight and Windsor spread collar, the Park Avenue is a bit

more spread than the straight and less than the Windsor.

Parquet

A diagonal twill dobby woven in a pattern of squares resembling a parquet

floor.

Also See Dobby


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Patch Pocket

A flat, outside pocket stitched onto a garment with a straight hem opening. Paul Fredrick offers four

types of patch pockets: Triangle Round, Straight Round, Mitered Pocket, and Button-Throught Pocket.

Patchwork

A fabric design consisting of squares, or patches, of varying pattern or color.

Peak Lapel

A lapel in which a v-shaped seam is formed where the collar meets it. This is the most formal and is

found on Paul Fradrick double-breasted jackets and some single-breasted styles.

Penny Loafer

See "Loafer"

Performance Collection

A Paul Fredrick Collection. Travel-friendly, easy care. Polished good looks withstand the rigor of travel

with style. Wrinkle-free and stain resistant garments are a staple of this collection.

Pick Stitching

A large stitch that simulates a hand stitch. The pick stitch is done around the lapel and pockets of a

jacket.

Pima Cotton

A high-quality, very strong, exrta-long staple cotton named after the Pima Native Americans, who first

cultivated the plant in Arizona in the early 1900s. Pima cotton is considered one of the most superior

blends of cotton.

Pinpoint Oxford

A finer yarn and tighter weave than oxford. A weave in which the warp (horizontal) has two fine yarns

paired together and one heavier softly-spun weft (vertical) yarn, which gives the fabric a subtle basket-

weave look and a lustrous finish.Pinstripe

A pattern of very thin, crisp lines, usually in gray or white, evenly woven into fabric. The pinstripe suit

has become associated with conservative business attire, but is easily updated for a more refreshing

look.

Piping

A narrow fold of fabric in a seam to provide decorative embellishment. Usually seen in sport coats, suit

jackets, and blazers in a contrasting color.

Pique

A durable woven or knit fabric that is characterized by an allover textured pattern of raised parallel

cords or fine ribbing. Generally cotton yarn, the most popular patterns are birdseye, diamond, waffle

and honeycomb.Placket

A strip of fabric running along a closure, used to provide support for fasteners such as buttons, snaps,

or a zipper. Almost always used to facilitate putting on or taking off of a garment, but are sometimes

used as a design element as well. Paul Fredrick uses three different types of plackets: Top Center,

Double Press Turnback and Covered.


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Plaid

A fabric with a pattern of bars and stripes that cross each other at right angles. Plaid fabrics may be

printed or woven and come in a variety of colors.

Plain Weave

A basic weave, utilizing a simple alternate interlacing of length and crosswise yarns over and under,

alternately. Any type of yarn and fiber can be manufactured into a plain weave fabric.

Pleats

A fold of fabric made by doubling material over on itself. Pleating provides more volume to a garment

and is often used as a decoartive feature. Different types of pleats can be seen on Paul Fredrick trousers

and shirts.

Trousers:Double reverse pleats and single reverse pleats on trousers open to the pockets. Box pleats areformed by two folded edges facing away from each other.Shirts:Back pleats are on woven shirts to allow ease of movement. Paul Fredrick offers two types ofback pleats: box pleat and side pleat. Box pleats are in the center back of the shirt and are usedon all buttondown collar dress shirts, except trim fit. Side pleats are located on each side of the

shirt back. They are used to allow greater ease of movement in the shoulders compared to abox pleat. All sport shirts, trim fit dress shirts and all other dress shirts, except the buttondowncollar styles have side pleats.

Pockets

Paul Fredrick offers 5 types of pockets: Triangle Round, Straight Round, Mitered, Button-Thru and

Besom.Triangle Round Pockets:

Triangle round pockets have a triangle hem at the top of the pocket withrounded edges at the bottom. Only used on solid dress shirts.

Straight Round Pockets:

Straight round pockets have a straight hem at the top of the pocket withrounded edges at the bottom. Used on patterned shirts.

Mitered Pockets:

Mitered pockets have a straight hem at the top with mitered edges at thebottom. All shirts with a mitered cuff have a mitered pocket.

Button-thru Pockets:

Button-thru pockets are rounded pockets with a functional button. Only used


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for sportshirts.

Besom Pockets:

Button-thru pockets are rounded pockets with a functional button. Only usedfor sportshirts.

Polyester

A man-made fiber resistant to shrinkage and wrinkling. Polyester is often combined with other fibers

such as wool and cotton as a way to provide low-maintenance dressing options.

Polynosic

Known for luxurious softness and superior drape, polynosic is a type of natural microfiber. Considered

finer quality than regular rayon yarns, it resists stretching to maintain shape over time.

Poplin

A plain-weave, tightly woven, durable fabric with a crosswise rib, creating a slight ridge effect.

Print

A fabric or garment with a dyed pattern that has been pressed onto it. Prints date back thousands ofyears, but technology has allowed prints to be developed more simply and in a variety of effects. A

printed garment always helps to bring an outfit to life.

Q [back to top]

Quarter Top Pockets

Front trouser pockets starting a quater of the way in from the side seam

R [back to top]Readers

Paul Fredrick's eyewear collection is distinctive in color and style. These high quality reading glasses

come in a variety of shapes and colors with strengths of +1.5, +2.0 and +2.5. Each frame can be

converted into prescription glasses with help from a qualified optician.

Reda

Since 1865, Reda wool has been world renowned for quality, luxury and refinement. The finest fleece,

decades of artisan experience, technological innovation and Italian mastery converge to form a truly

superior fabric.

Rhodium

Rhodium is a silvery-white element that does not tarnish. It is a hard metal and is a member of the

platinum family. It is one of the most valuable precious metals. Often used in cufflinks.

Rib Knit

A knitted fabric characterized by lengthwise ribs formed by wales alternating on the face and back of

the cloth. Rib knits have greater elasticity in the width than in the length and tend to fit to the body.

They are durable and do not stretch out of shape after wear.

Rise

Distance from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband in pants.

S [back to top]


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Sandwashed Silk

A process by which the silk is treated to give it an even softer surface, almost suede-like in feel. This

fabric is incredibly soft, has a matte surface and drapes beautifully.

Satin Weave

A basic weave, characterized by long floats of yarn on the face of the fabric. The yarns are interlaced in

such a manner that there is no definite, visible pattern of interlacing and, in this manner, a smooth and

somewhat shiny surface effect is achieved. The shiny surface effect is further increased through the use

of high luster filament fibers in yarns which also have a low amount of twist. A true satin weave fabric

always has the warp yarns floating over filling yarns.

Scalloped Facing

A border that contains continuous curves. All Paul Fredrick jackets and sportcoats have scalloped

interior facings, also known as French facing. Many jackets also have the added detail of contrast piping

along the finished edge of the lining.

Seersucker

A mid to lightweight fabric that has a characteristic permanent puckered striped effect created through

releasing the tension on the loom during weaving.

Seven FoldSee "7-Fold"

Shadow Stripe

An easy stripe pattern composed of elegant, tonal hues. Shadow stripes create an interesting pattern

that easily pairs for dressy or casual occasions

Sharkskin

Smooth wool in a twill weave that has a characteristic alternating black-and-white pattern for a grayed

effect. The surface is said to resemble a skin of a shark. Commonly found in suitings.

Shawl Collar

A one-piece collar which is turned down to form a continuous line around the back of the neck to the

front.

Shirt JacketJacket designed in the style of a shirt with a button-front closure, shirt collar and often a two-button

adjustable cuff.

Side Pleats

See "Pleats"

Signature Collection

A Paul Fredrick Collection. Exclusive. Distinctive yet timeless. Polished elegance with a more singular

attitude.


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Silk

A fiber produced by the silkworm Bombyx mori, also known as the mulberry silkworm, with which the

worm weaves its cocoon. Silk is soft, has a brilliant sheen, and is very strong and absorbent. A luxurious

fabric, silk is lush to the touch.

Silk Shantung

Medium weight, plain weave fabric made of raw silk. Known for its irregular surface created by slubbed

yarns in the warp or filling direction. The slubs that appear randomly are part of the character and rustic

beauty of this precious cloth. See "Slub"

Soft Collar

Edge-stitched for a more European attitude, the soft collar is best suited to sport shirts. It is a shorter

length than our typical straight collar with a softer interlining giving it a more casual presentation.

Soft Coat Construction

Softer findings used inside for construction that drapes rather than traditional firm construction which

hugs the body. Counterintuitively, a less constructed sportcoat actually takes longer to tailor. Exposed

seams require precision inside and out.

Silver Plated

A thin coating of silver over an alloy metal.Single Breasted

A jacket having one row of buttons on a narrow overlap. Paul Fredrick single-breasted jackets and

sportcoats are offered in two- or three-button s. These buttons are generally uncovered, or can be

covered on a fly front model.

Single Needle Tailoring

Refers to a lockstitch which has two rows of single needle stitching locking the seam together as

opposed to chain stitch.


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Single Pleat

See "Pleats"

Slub

Yarns produced by uneven twisting of fibers. At even, or uneven intervals the yarn is reduced,

producing a soft, bulky area inbetween.

Spectator

These stylish, retro shoes are known for their two-tone color, similar to saddle shoes. Most spectators

are wingtips, however they can also have cap toe or even loafer stying. They are predominantly seen in

black and white but other color combinations update this classic style.

Sportcoat

Of the same cut as a suit jacket, a sportcoat is more casual and designed to be worn on its own, not as

part of a suit.

Split Toe

Usually a lace-up shoe that has a seam coming down the center toe box that splits the shoe (or

pieces of leather) in two.

Spun Silk

Fibers shorter than the traditional filament silk are spun together creating a full bodied fabric with

exceptional luster and texture. Spun silks superior shape retention and a natural resistance to pilling willkeep you looking great all day.

Stain Resistant

Treated so that moisture rolls off instantly, locked out

Sterling Silver

An alloy of silver containing 92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals, usually copper. This gives the soft

silver extra strength.

Stretch Armhole

A piece of stretch fabric that is sewn in the back of the jacket lining around the armhole. The stretch

fabric allows for better ease of movement.

Suede

Suede is a type of finish which creates a napped surface on various types of materials such as wool,cotton, leather, and various synthetic materials. The short, close nap provides a smooth, soft hand.

Super Wools

The story of this thread is the numbering system used to describe the new breed of super-lightweight,

high-twist wools. Pioneered by Italian mills, these fabrics are made using high-tech machines that spin

wool lighter and finer than it's ever been spun before. The various grades of cloth are referred to as

Super 100s, Super 120s, Super 150s and so on, up to Super 200s. Make Super 100s and Super 120s the

mainstay of your wardrobe. They are durable, resilient, and today's fabrics are superb. Treat the Super

150s and Super 180s as caviar, wonderful, but not to be worn every day, for these really are

connoisseurs' suits.

Swarovski Crystal

The luxury brand name for the range of precision-cut lead crystal glass and related products produced

by Swarovski AG of Wattens, Austria.

T [back to top]Tassel Loafer

See "Loafer"

Tencel / Lyocell

Tencel is the trademarked brand name for Lyocell, a cellulose fabric that is achieved through an

organic solvent spinning process. Lyocell has good moisture absorption and static resistance. It is also

very durable and provides as subtle luster.


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Tessitura Monti

Based in the north of Italy, Tessitura Monti is known for high quality 100% Egyptian cotton shirtings. In

business for over 98 years, Monti is proud to be contiuing in their belief of providing superb quality of

design and production.

Textured Solid

A solid, one color fabric with a textured weave, creating a pattern.

Top Center Placket

Also called a "Traditional Front," a top center placket uses a separate piece of fabric and a fused lining

to give it additional durabiliy. See also "Placket"

Top Stitch

See " Top Stitch

Traditional Straight Collar

A universal collar; the most versatile, easy to wear style. Click here for a visual comparison of Dress

Shirt collars.

Tred Stripe

Stripe resembling the tred marks of a tire.

Trilby

A Trilby hat is a soft felt men's hat with a narrow, flexible brim and a deeply indented crown.Traditionally it was made from rabbit hair felt, but now it is sometimes made from other materials, such

as tweed, or wool. They are similar to fedoras, but with a narrower brim. See "Fedora"

Trim Fit

Also referred to as a slim cut, the body of the shirt is 5 narrower in the chest tapering to 6 narrower

at the waist. A perfect fit for those who do not need the full body cut of a regular fit dress shirt.

Tropical Weight Wool

A smooth wool fabric made from two-ply yarns in an open plain weave. Lightweight and airy, this fabric

is great for summer wear.

Twill

Fabrics created by interlacing the warp and weft so that the fabric hasa diagonal slant or twill line. Twill fabrics have a front and a back side,

unlike plain weave, where the two sides are the same. The face side ofa twill fabric is the side with the most pronounced wale and is usuallymore durable, more attractive, and used as the fashion side of thefabric.

U [back to top]Unsolid Solid

Solid, one color fabric in which a pattern is created by varying the weave.

V [back to top]


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Varsity Spread Collar

A shorter version of the Windsor Spread, updated with slightly curved lines. Click here for a visual

comparison of Dress Shirt collars.

Variegated Stripe

A stripe with streaks, marks or distinguished by a variety of different colors.

Velvet

Fabric that has a pile, which is usually cut and brushed for a plush surface effect, offering a rich texture.

Vent

A vent is a slit in the bottom rear (tail) of the jacket. There are three vent options in a jacket: center

vent, side vents or no vent.

Vermeil

A durable and tarnish-resistant overlay of gold on sterling silver.

Virgin Wool

Wool spun for the first time. Not recycled. See "Wool"

W [back to top]Warp

Lengthwise threads of a woven fabric.

Water ResistantA fabric finish that allows the garment to resist the penetration of water. This finish is commonly found

in Paul Fredrick performance garments.

Weft or Fill

Thread that is woven across the warp at a right angle.

Windowpane

A pattern of thin lines forming large squares on a background of a different color. Windowpane was a

very popular pattern at the height of Savile Row style and is very common today for men's suits,

trousers, and sport coats.

Windsor Spread Collar

A conservative spread collar appropriate for any occassion. Click here for a visual comparison of Dress

Shirt collars.Wing Tip

A wing tip shoe has a decorative toe cap that is usually perforated and covers the toe of the shoe and

extends backward along the sides of the shoe from a point at the center.

Wool

A fiber obtained from the fleece of a sheep. It is a resilient and wrinkle resistant fabric. Wool can hold

up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling wet. A great fabric for keeping warm in the cold

winter months.

Worsted Wool

A carded, combed, tightly twisted yarn that produces crisp, smooth woolens.

Wrinkle Resistant

Treated to resist wrinkles. Although not non-iron, these treated fabrics will keep you looking polished

all day long.

X [back to top]

Y [back to top]Yarn

A strand of textile fibers joined together, used for weaving or knitting into fabric.


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Yoke

The shaped section at the shoulders that connects all the other parts of the shirt. One-piece yokes

allow for greater ease of movement where split yokes provide a more tailored look. Paul Fredrick one-

piece yokes are 4", starting at the neckband and are found on all sportshirts and European collection

dress shirts. Paul fredrick split yokes are 2", starting at the neckband and have a seam in the center of

the yoke. All dress shirts, except the European collection have a split yoke. Paul Fredrick also offers a

mitered yoke on select dress shirts. Similar to a split yoke, a the side panels of a mitered yoke are cut on

the bias (diagonal) creating a mitered effect along the center back seam on of the yoke.

Z [back to top]Zegna Baruffa Yarns

A wide range of yarns that appear clean and smooth, flowing and extremely light. Zegna Baruffa is an

Italian firm with a long tradition of high quality and excellence.

Documents

100 of garments