FINISHING OF GARMENTS

Durable press finish

Wash –n-wear finish

Different types of finishing parameters and controlling factors (padding, curing, permanent set, surface property after finishing)

Presented by:Ms. T. Srivani, Asst. Professor, DFT

Cellulose fibres and especially cotton are still important fibres

due to various advantages. However, one of their main

disadvantages is wrinkling after washing which can be

overcome by a very special kind of finish. These are called as

Drip-dry, Wash & Wear, Easy care, Easy to iron, no-iron,

crease resistant, durable press, permanent press, shrink

proof, wrinkle free finishes

WASH & WEAR FINISHES:

These are also referred to as drip-dry finishes. They are of the same type as wrinkle resistant finishes.

Garments made of fabrics with wash and wear finishes will dry smooth and need little or no ironing after washing. The fabrics have a good soft hand and a neat appearance.

Wash and wear finishes have been primarily used on broad cloth and oxford shirting and applied to other cotton fabrics.

Each company has its own trade mark for its drip-dry finish.Garments made of fabrics treated with this finish may beCommercially laundered.

The primary advantage is that such garments launder easily at home and need no ironing. This tends to increase their wear since home laundering is less harsh as a mild soap is used.

In some cases, wash and wear finishes cause yellowing when a chlorine bleach is used, labels should therefore be read carefully.

Do not wring the garments or spin dry them in washing machine or in a dryer.

Rinse them well, hang them on wooden or plastic hangers, buttoned and straightened out and allow them to drip dry.

Finishes: Resin pre condensates are sued for finishing fabrics for this effect.

Durable or Permanent press finishes:

The development of permanent press, also referred to as PP & durable press finishing techniques is s great achievement for manufacturers to overcome difficulties in making wrinkle resistant goods in to garments.

This finish gave the fabrics a built- in memory which interfered with shaping garments to conform to body contours, pressing creases into trousers and putting pleats in skirts.

Wash and wear finishes described earlier is a pre cured process, i.e., before the goods are cut and sewn into garments.

The permanent press finishes are post cured.

I. Fabric Resin Cross linking Dry at open width

Cure at open widthCut, sew and pressPre cured

Ex: Shirting, Draparies etc. which require C/P blends not set in creases.

II. Post cured or permanent press:

Fabric Resin cross linking Dry at open width

Cut, sew and pressCure products at 300-400o F

Post cured

Ex: Used for skirts, slacks and other products.Common with cotton and polyester blends.

Methods of application on garments:

1.Immersion process:

Dye and finish the product for a specific fashion look

Immerse the garment or product in the finishing agent and extract excess finish and dry the product.

Hand and performance are modified with fabric softeners and other compounds so that the finished product will appeal to consumers.

Press desired features-like creases, pleats etc. in to garment with special press

Cure product in curing oven at 300o F for 5-15 min

Used for fashion apparel of 100% cotton

Also known as the garment or product dip process

2. Metered-Addition process:

Dye and finish the product for a specific fashion look

Spray the garments or product with finishing agent in a rotating chamber. Tumble till uniformly processed

Hand and performance can be adjusted with fabric softeners and other compounds

Press desired features

Cure at 300o F for 5-15 min.

Used for fashion apparel and furnishings, bed linens and towels of 100% cotton

3. Vapour phase process:

Dye and finish the product for a specific fashion look

Press desired features into garment with a hot press

Hand and performance can be adjusted with softeners and other compounds

Apply finish in a vapour form to the product in a closed chamber and cure while in chamber

Used for cotton and other natural fibres

Uses less finishing chemicals so the effect on hand, abrasion resistance and staining is less

Keraton, Super crease, Dan-press, Cone press,

Sharp shape, Kara set, Never-press, Ameri-set

are some of the trade names for permanent

press or durable press finish fabrics.

Durable press wool:

It is achieved by a combination of resin treatmentWhich controls wool’s excessive shrinkage.

Si-Ro-Set is a trade name.

1. Flat fabric is treated with 1-2% of durable press resin and steamed for 3-5 minutes

2. Item is made up, sprayed with more durable press resin and pressed

Shrink resistance resin is mixed with a dry cleaning solvent and item is dry cleaned

The resin is cured 3-7 days before laundering

Durable-press Silk:

Since silk wrinkles easily when wet, poly carboxylic acid is used to produce durable press or wrinkle resistant silk.

This finish is durable to launderings but looses 20 % loss of strength, increase in stiffness and decrease in whiteness.

Requirements:

1.No iron or easy to iron

2.Durable press performance

3.Dimensional stability

4.Soft and pleasant handle

5.High abrasion stability

6.Tare strength

Chemicals used:

Urea Formaldehyde

DMU-Dimethylol urea

Melamine formaldehyde

TMM – Tri –to hexamethylol melamine

DHEU – Di hydroxy ethylene urea

DMDHEU- Di methylol ethylene urea

Care:

Wash items frequently because resins have a strongAffinity for oil and grease

Pre treat stains, collars and cuffs.

Use spot removal agent on grease spots

Keep wash loads small to minimize wrinkling

Avoid setting in wrinkles with heat

Keep washing temperature cool

Remove items promptly when dry

THANK YOU