Production Binder

PolyRacks

IT 407

Spring 2017

Table of Contents………………………………………………………………….…….......…….2

Team Mission Statement…………………………………………………………….……….........3

Production Gantt chart…………………………………………………………….…………...….4

Value Stream Map (VSM)

Callout Diagram……………………………………………………………………….…………..5

Bill of Materials (BOM)…………………………………………………………………………..5

Consumable Tooling List…………………………………………………………………….……6

Non­Consumable Tooling List……………………………………………………………………..

Safety and PPE List……………………………………………………………………………….6

Equipment and Machinery List……………………………………………………………………7

Workflow Diagram……………………………………………………………………………..…7

Solid Models and Solid Drawings……………………………………………………...…………8

Time Studies………………………………………………………….………………...…………9

Work Instructions……………………………………………………...…………………………10

Package Design……………………………………………………………………….…………76

Hours Worked……………………………………………………………………………………

Material Safety Data Sheets………………………………………………………………………

Glossary of Terms…………………………………………………………………………….....

Drawing revision control……………………………………………………...…………………

Team Mission Statement

In order to meet the criteria laid out in our IT 407 capstone class, we were tasked with designing, manufacturing, and selling a novel product. We were to invest our own money, locate our own suppliers, process our own material, and find our own customers. The idea for this project came about after many of the teammates noticed a reoccurring problem among college students. While visiting our friends' apartments, we realized that there was a void when it came to elegant, affordable, and all­inclusive bike management. There are bikes made to travel through rugged terrain and there are bikes built for a warm summer's day down at the pier. Our overall objective was to create a space­saving solution compatible with all ranges of bikes while also producing a piece that didn't seem like it belonged in the garage. The PolyRack provides consumers an aesthetic and convenient way to mount their bicycle. Built out of high­quality steel and embellished with premium wood, the rack changes the way we think of storing bikes. Instead of seeing your bike as a nuisance when it comes to putting it away, the PolyRack lets cyclists efficiently hang their bikes thanks to its built­in swivel technology. Meticulously crafted and rigorously tested, the bike rack can hold up to 100 lbs. and will secure any type of tire ­­ road, mountain, BMX, you name it.

Production Gantt Chart

No. Description Start End

Duration (Days) Who

% Complet

e

1 Final Prototype 5/1/16 5/3/16 3 PolyRacks Team 100%

2 Hook outsourcing 5/3/16 5/10/16 8

PolyRacks Team 100%

3 Backpack hook outsourcing 5/3/16 5/10/16 8

PolyRacks Team 100%

4 Production approval 5/11/16

5/11/16 1

PolyRacks Team 100%

5 Aluminum Milling 5/11/16

5/20/16 10

PolyRacks Team 100%

6 Bandsaw cutting steel, aluminum, wood

5/11/16

5/13/16 3

PolyRacks Team 100%

7 Wood chamfering 5/13/16

5/14/16 2

PolyRacks Team 100%

8 Drilling holes 5/14/16

5/15/16 2

PolyRacks Team 100%

9 Bending steel 5/13/16

5/15/16 3

PolyRacks Team 100%

10 Welding steel 5/15/16

5/18/16 4

PolyRacks Team 100%

11 Tumbling 5/18/16

5/19/16 2

PolyRacks Team 100%

12 Wire wheel steel 5/19/16

5/20/16 2

PolyRacks Team 100%

13 Staining wood 5/14/16

5/22/16 9

PolyRacks Team 100%

14 Kongsberg cut packaging 5/23/16 6/2/16 11

PolyRacks Team 100%

15 Assemble aluminum to wood 5/28/16

5/29/16 2

PolyRacks Team 100%

16 Quality inspect units 5/29/16 6/2/16 5

PolyRacks Team 100%

17 Package units 5/30/16 6/2/16 4

PolyRacks Team 100%

Callout Diagram

Bill of Materials

Part Name Part ID (External)

Part ID (Internal) Material

Est. Quantity (120 units)

Total Cost

Hook BR001 770768 (SHR26­25) Rafter Hook 118 $183.97

L Bar BR002 38HRR Steel Round Stock 48 ft $25.49

Angle Bar BR003 N/A Steel Angle Iron 87 ft $158.35

Bracket BR004 1ASQ 6061 Aluminum 44 ft $181.68

Bottom Hook (accessory hooks) BR005

B59103G­SN­C

Cast Aluminum 240 $261.58

Bottom Bracket BR006 BIL0441A Birch 30 board ft $163.50 Base Plate BR007 BIL0441A Birch 53 board ft $267.00 Wood Screws BR008 90031A255 Zinc Plated 3 packs of 100 $45.11 Wood Screws BR009 90031A199 Zinc Plated 4 packs of 100 $28.68

Total BoM Expenses $1,315.36

Value Stream Map (VSM)

Consumable Tooling List & Jigs, Fixtures, Gauges List

Consumables Item Part ID (External) Part ID (Internal) Cost Cutting Fluid BR100 15121528 $7.12 HSS Drill Bit Set (25/64") BR101 71­931 $16.64 Endmill (0.5") BR102 204­001200USA $51.53 Router chamfer bit BR103 45325743461 $1.79 Wood Stain/Sealant BR104 222204444 $12.50 Paint Brushes (Staining) BR106 F5119­4 $6.40 Wiping Cloths BR107 UFSN250CW01 $7.95 Sharpies BR108 MK301BK $0.00 Masking Tape BR109 2021BULK $6.67 Angle Iron Finish (Anti­Rust/Clear) Spray or Paint BR110 209562 $12.99 Wood Glue BR111 5063 $5.23 25/64" Drill Bit BR112 3016025 $8.21

Tooling Item Part ID (External) Part ID (Internal) Cost Bender BR300 28135 $81.17 Router Chamfer Table BR301 37599 $75.00

Jigs/Fixtures Item Part ID Angle Iron Fixture BR200 Bar Stock Fixture BR201 Welding Fixture BR202 ­­­­VOID­­­­ BR203 Back Plate Assist Fixture BR204 Bracket Mounting Drill Jig BR205 Piece 2 ­ BP Drill Jig BR206 Piece 1 ­ BP Centering Jig BR207 Bracket Vertical Drill Jig BR208 Bottom Bracket Fixture BR209 Router Bit Height Fixture BR210 Router Vertical Guide Fixture BR211 McMaster Carr Hook Fixture BR212

Grinding Chamfer Jig BR213 Grinding Hook Placement Jig BR214 Sanding Jig BR215 Garment hook jig BR216 Wood Drilling Platform BR217

Safety and PPE List

Name of Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Quantity

Facilities Tracking Number Process

Safety Glasses 10 1 All Long Pants 10 2 All Cotton Shirts 10 3 All Closed­Toed Shoes 10 4 All Face Shield 2 5 Grinding Dust Mask 2 6 Sanding Helmet 3 7 Welding Jacket 3 8 Welding Gloves 3 9 Welding

First Aid Kit 1 10 In cases of injuries

Equipment and Machinery List

Brand Price Estimate Power Supply Serial Number Part Number

Bridgeport Series I $70,000 240 V 1190161 136200366 Dewalt $599.00 120 V 45134 DWS780

Wellsaw 1316 swivel $10,790 3 Phase 208 VAC 60 Hz 6466 1316 Scotchman $5,000.00 3 Phase 208 VAC 60 Hz 11377184 4014 OT

Lincoln Electric $350 120 V 366784 K2185­1 Clausing $2,200 208 VAC 60 Hz 1689 531075 Bosch $150 120 V 100466926 RA1181

DeWalt DW758 $119.99 120V AC 4.2A 3/4HP 0049­YL0397 DW758

Eskos $150,000 3 Phase 220V 81008 Premium Line

1930

Stratasys $20,000.00 110­120 VAC, 60Hz min. 15 A

Dedicated 220­240 VAC 74686 SST 768 Ultra Vibe $300 115 V Model UV­18 THU180

Sony Vaio $800 19.5 V AC Adapter 27545635 3018603 SVE1511RFXB

Champ 3 $600.00 Single Phase 120 VAC 200 W

1.67 A 35236­A32A09

1 GM­CHAMP 3 Delta Left Tilting Unisaw Type 2 $3,000.00 Single Phase 230 V 60 Hz

36­L300 Type 2

14B000038201 409CT

Workflow Diagram

Solid Model

Time Studies

Estimated Actual Process & Component Setup (min) Cycle (min) Setup (min) Cycle (min) Aluminum Bracket Cutting ­ Horizontal Band Saw 3 2 3 1.5 Milling 10 20 8 23 Drilling 4 2 5 14 Tumbling 1 40 1 60 Bottom Bracket Preparing 2 2 3 2 Sanding, Gluing, Clamping 2 30 1 35 Cutting ­ Chop Saw 4 5 3 8 Staining/Enameling 1 60 2 77 Drilling 3 2 3 1 Birch Backplate Cutting ­ Table Saw 2 2 1 1 Cutting ­ Chop Saw 3 2 3 4 Routing 2 3 3 3 Drilling 4 2 7 2 Staining/Enamel 1 60 2 70 Installing Garment hooks 1 3 2 4 Angle Iron Cutting ­ Iron Worker 2 1 3 1.5 Grinding 3 3 2 7 Wire Wheel 2 3 1 4 Rectangular Tire Hook Cutting ­ Iron Worker 2 1 1 1.5 Bending 3 2 3 1.5 Welding 4 3 3 4 Hinge Pin Bending 2 3 3 2.5 Cutting ­ Iron Worker 2 32 3 1.5 Grinding 1 1 0.5 0.5 Welding 6 6 5 7 Subtotal 70 290 71.5 336.5 Total 360 408

6 hours 6.125 hours

Work Instructions

ALUMINUM BRACKET

PROCESS 1 ­ Cutting the Aluminum Stock ­ Horizontal Band Saw

PROCESS 2 ­ Milling the Bracket

PROCESS 3 ­ Drill Press

PROCESS 4 ­ Tumbler

BOTTOM BRACKET

PROCESS 1 ­ Preparing Wood for Assembly, Routing and Chop Saw

PROCESS 2 ­ Sanding, Gluing, Clamping

PROCESS 3 ­ Cutting Bottom Bracket to Size, Adding Secondary Chamfers

PROCESS 4 ­ Staining, Enamel

PROCESS 5 ­ Drill Press Holes

BIRCH BACKPLATE

PROCESS 1 ­ Cutting Birch to Width Using Table Saw

PROCESS 2 ­ Cutting Birch to Backplate Length Using Chop Saw

PROCESS 3 ­ Routing the Sides of the Backplate (TABLE ROUTER)

PROCESS 4 ­ Drilling Holes in Backplate (DRILL PRESS)

PROCESS 5 ­ Applying Stain Finish

PROCESS 6 ­ Applying Enamel Finish to Birch Backplate

PROCESS 7 ­ Installing Garment Hooks

WHEEL TRAY, HINGE AND HOOK

PROCESS 1 ­ Cutting the Angle Iron ­ Iron Worker

PROCESS 2 ­ Grinding Angle Iron

PROCESS 3 ­ Removing Blemishes/Rust from Angle Iron ­ Wire Wheel

PROCESS 4 ­ Cutting rectangle tire hook with Iron Worker

PROCESS 5 ­ Rectangular hook bending

PROCESS 6 ­ Hinge Pin Bending ­ Bender

PROCESS 7 ­ Cutting Hinge Pins ­ Iron Worker

PROCESS 8 ­ Hinge Pin Grinding

PROCESS 9 ­ MIG Welding ­ Hinge Pin

PROCESS 10 ­ Rectangular hook welding

ALUMINUM BRACKET

PROCESS 1 ­ Cutting the Aluminum Stock ­ Horizontal Band Saw

Setup time = 3 minutes Cycle time = 1 1/2 minutes

1. Use Fixture BR201 and the aluminum bar stock from reserve next to scrap bin 1. Use Fixture BR201 and make a line 4.6" from the end of the 1" x 1" square bar stock 2. Ensure machine is unplugged and check the speed: set it to the proper speed for

aluminum as indicated on the black chart on the yellow box to the right. Open the yellow box by unscrewing the black knob. The belt should be set to the position on the 3rd from the top alignment also as indicated by the black chart. If it's not at the correct position, on the green motor next to the yellow box, loosen the half inch bolt using a half inch socket, wrench, or pressing wrench. From there, change the location of the belt as needed. To close the green motor, have a second person pull the motor upwards until the belt has tension, while tightening the bolt back. Close the yellow box and reattach the knob.

3. On the left side of the bandsaw you will find an aluminum handle. Grab the handle and lift until the saw portion of the machine stops in up position (there should plenty of room to fit material under the blade). Ensure that the machine drop rate is left on 0 until you are ready to cut.

4. You can now insert the 1" x 1" bar stock from the rear of the machine. Make sure the stock is flush, 90 degrees, against vice. If the tube extends more than a foot off the back of the machine, place the green support bar under it. Ask for another person to help if necessary and make sure to hold the bar when adjusting its height so it doesn’t drop and pinch your fingers. Ensure that the stand is at the same height as the machine so the stock sits flat.

5. Make sure that the machine is plugged in and set to cut aluminum (follow the horizontal band saw instructions posted in lab, if you need help to change the setting ask an ISA: ), then on the control panel, located on the top middle of the machine, turn the drop to “ON” and turn the drop speed knob to between 2­3. Then slowly lower the saw until it is 3­4 inches from the workpiece. Looking down at the blade and workpiece, adjust the workpiece (using a rubber mallet to avoid cutting your fingers) until the line on your piece is in line with the saw blade.

6. Once the blade is lined up with the line you made on the piece, grab the handle on the left of the machine (attached to the wheel) and turn it clockwise to lock the vise.

7. Now to make the cut, lift the top half of the machine until it is in the up position again. Make sure the coolant knob (has a sink icon above it) is in the "I" position. Push and twist the emergency stop button clockwise until it pops out (third button from the left). Turn the drop knob to “ON” and begin to slowly lower the saw by turning the drop speed knob counter clockwise. As the blade comes into contact with the metal (your piece), your speed should be between 1.5 and 2, and once the blade is fully engaged with the part, you can increase the speed to between 2.5 and 3.

8. As the blade gets close to finishing the cut, put one hand on the work piece to make sure it does not fall or shoot off once the cut is made.

9. Once the blade is finished cutting the workpiece, hit the emergency stop, turn the speed to 0, and turn the drop knob to OFF. Lift the top half of the machine and remove your part. Check with calipers to ensure it is no less than 4.505”

10. Mark 4.5” again on the stock and slide it forward in the vise. Repeat all steps of the operation until all the stock has been cut.

11. To clean the machine, make sure it is turned off and unplugged. Put all of your materials away and store the support close to horizontal band saw. Then sweep up around the machine and throw the swept chips of materials into trash can.

12. Take the finished part to either the cage, the Sandblaster (for steel tube stock), or CNC (for aluminum stock).

PROCESS 2 ­ Milling the Bracket

Setup time = 8 minutes Cycle time = 23 minutes

1. Acquire aluminum bar stock that was cut with the horizontal band saw at 4.6” in length and two parallel bars that measure 1.5” tall. Also grab cutting fluid. Place each parallel bar on the inside of each of the vise jaws of the Bridgeport manual mill. The vise is located on the middle area of the table on the mill.

2. Place the bar stock in the vise that is located on the table of the mill so that one edge of the stock is hanging over the edge of the side of the clamp by about ½” to 1” and the length of the stock is resting on the parallel bars. Simultaneously tighten the vise by rotating the handle at the front of it while using a rubber mallet to tap on the top of the stock to make sure that the stock lays perfectly on the bottom of the clamp during tightening. The bar stock should be gripped by the vise jaws, lying on the parallel bars, with the majority of the stock protruding upward and up to an inch of the long side hanging off.

1. Turn on the manual mill by plugging the power plug into the wall on the base of the mill and turn on the coordinate display by flipping the on switch near the display.

2. Insert a 3 flute ½” flat nose end mill into a ½” R8 collet and insert the collet into the receiving part of the mill. Hold the collet and tool up into the receiving part of the mill so

that the cutting edges of the end mill are held outside of the collet and, at the same time, press the “IN” button on the top left portion of the mill. Hold the “IN” button down until the collet and mill are pulled up and held securely in the mill.

3. Measure the exact length of the stock using calipers and note the length to determine how much material to remove on both long sides of the bar stock. Two sides of the bar stock will be faced, so the total extra length of the stock divided in half will be removed from each end. For example, if the stock measures 4.600” long, then .050” must be removed from each side by facing the sides to make the length of the piece measure exactly 4.500” +\­.05”. Use cutting fluid accordingly.

4. Locate the Digital Read Out (DRO) machine hanging to the right of the mill. Adjust the face of the DRO so that it can be easily read while rotating the X and Y axis handles. Locate the power cord on the back of the DRO and plug the cord into a nearby AC 120 outlet. Locate the metallic ON/OFF switch on the front face of the DRO and flip the switch to the ON position, the face of the DRO should light up. Next, locate the Inches/Millimeter metallic switch directly opposite of the ON/OFF switch. Flip the Inches/Millimeter switch to the Inches setting.

5. To begin facing one of the ends, zero the X­axis with touch paper by moving the end mill very close to the side of the bar stock that is hanging over the edge of the vise and hold touch paper in between the stock and tool. Move the touch paper around while moving the X­axis to move the tool into contact with the touch paper. Once contact has been made and the touch paper stops moving, press the “X select” button near the display and then press “CLR” to set the X coordinate to 0.000”. Move the tool off of the bar stock using the X­axis and use the Y­axis to move the tool away in the perpendicular direction. Move the Z­axis so the end of the tool is about halfway down the height of the bar stock.

1. To make the first facing cut, move the tool in the X­axis direction to the specified length that was determined through measuring the bar stock. For example, if the bar stock was

measured to be 4.5900” in length, then move the X­axis so that the display reads “0.0450”. Apply cutting fluid to the end of the bar stock by rubbing or spraying it out of the cutting fluid bottle onto the workpiece. Now start the mill by flipping the black switch located near the “IN” and “OUT” buttons to the “LOW RANGE” setting. The end mill will begin to spin. Once it has sped up, turn the knob on the right side of the speed indication display (which is located directly above the cutting tool) to set the speed of the tool to 2200 rpm. The speed of the tool can only be adjusted while the mill is running. Now move the Y­axis so that the tool moves toward and through the bar stock which will shave off the appropriate amount from the side of the stock.

2. Once the tool has moved all the way past the width of the bar stock, the first cut is complete. Now move the Z­axis so the tool moves down to reach the bottom of the bar stock. Next, move the Y­axis so the tool makes another pass and shaves off the the rest of the protruding material.

3. Turn the mill off and remove the piece from the vise. Rotate it so that the opposite end is now hanging out of the vise and repeat the above process to face the other side. Remember to keep applying cutting fluid whenever a new cut will be made.

4. Once the ends are faced, re­zero the x­axis in the same fashion described in the previous steps, and zero the Z­axis. To zero the Z­axis, rotate the knobs to move the Z­axis above the bar stock and slowly lower the Z­axis towards it. Use touch paper between the aluminum bar and the tool. Once the touch paper is slightly trapped between the bar and tool, the axis can be zeroed by loosening the dial and manually rotating the dial to read “0”. Then tighten the dial. After, back the tool off on the Y­axis so it is clear of the bar,

and rotate the Z­axis clockwise 7 times in order to move the tool up into the cutting area to create a .7” deep cut.

5. When ready to cut the channel: Use cutting fluid accordingly and rotate the Y­axis to move the tool to begin cutting at X= 1.000” and Z=0.700”. For the first and last cuts, use the locking mechanism for X­axis (located under the platform) to get precise cuts as the axis may move due to vibration. Repeat the same horizontal cuts moving down the workpiece by setting the X­axis on the display to: 1.3”, 1.6”, 1.9”, 2.2”, 2.5”, 2.8”, 3.1” 3.4”, 3.7”, a little more or little less is fine for middle cuts, but make sure to make a cut at 4” exactly for final cut.

6. Remove the completed piece from the vise and move it to stock shelf above the label “Milled Bracket”.

PROCESS 3 ­ Drill Press

Setup time = 5 minutes Cycle time = 19 minutes

1. Grab the jig labeled BR 205, the other jig labeled BR 208, a newly bracket that has been tumbled and milled, a 11/64” drill bit, a 25/64” drill bit, a center punch, and a hammer.

2. Align the BR 205 bracket with the inside of the milled part of the bracket so that the holes are vertical with the length of the bracket, the holes press up against the bottom of the milled edge, and the perpendicular part of the jig is pressed against either the right or left sides of the bracket.

3. Now, push the BR 208 bracket all the way on to one of the top or bottom ends of the bracket so that the side of the bracket labeled “back side” is on the same side as the back

side of the bracket and the top or bottom of the bracket is pressed all the way into the jig.

4. Mark the bracket holes using the center punch and hammer. For the top and bottom

marks, remove the jig after marking one and use it to repeat the steps to make another mark for the opposite side.

5. Place a 11/64” drill bit into the chuck jaws so that it hangs down to be pushed into a part. To open the chuck jaws, use the red chuck key that hangs off of the drill press and insert it into the hole near the teeth of the chuck. Turn the key counterclockwise to open the chuck, put the drill bit in so that the jaws will tighten onto the side without flutes, and rotate the chuck key clockwise to tighten the jaws down snugly onto the drill bit.

6. Place the bracket into a vise so that the vertical line side is facing upward and tighten the vise by pulling the lever on the side of it. Place the vise with clamp on top of the drill press table so that the drill bit lines up with one of the etched holes on the bracket. Clamp the vise to the table using a clamp.

7. Turn the drill press on by plugging it in and pressing the green START button located above the chuck area but below the speed adjust.

8. While drill press is on, adjust the speed to be between 900­1000 rpm by turning the handle above the on and off buttons. Make sure that the drill stop to the right is moved all the way to the top. Turn machine off by pressing the STOP button below the start button.

9. Align one of the previously etched areas on the inside of the bracket with the bottom of the drill bit by moving the vise around on the table.

10. Apply cutting fluid to the location that the drill will plunge into the bracket. 11. Using your free hand, rotate the handle on the right side of the drill press by pulling down

on one of the large handles on the pilot feed lever. The drill bit will lower and eventually plunge into the bracket.

12. Keep lowering the handle until the drill bit plunges all the way through the bracket. Release the pilot feed lever and turn the machine off by pressing the red button that is near the start button.

13. Repeat the above steps for the final two etched areas on the bracket. 14. Replace the drill bit with the 25/64” drill bit by following the above steps. Slow the speed

down to around 300 rpm using the above steps. 15. Reposition the bracket in the vise so that it points up vertically and align the center

punched or marked parts with the drill bit. Repeat the above steps to plunge the drill bit into the bracket.

16. After drilling, turn the bracket 90 degrees in the vise to repeat the process for the opposite side.

17. Remove the bracket from drill press and vice for countersinking. Before leaving the drill press area make sure the machine is off, vice is removed from drill press table and placed on the foot of machine and drill press table is brushed off.

18. Retrieve the 18v cordless drill from inventory locker and ¼’’ countersink tool and place at a workstation with drilled aluminum bracket.

19. Instal the battery by sliding the 18v battery pack onto the base of the cordless drill with the white button facing forward.

20. Locate the oval directional drive button above the trigger of the driver but below the branding. Find the side on the serial number side with the arrow on the button pointed forward. Press the button down for clockwise rotation of the ¼’’ countersink.

21. Push the black knurled tool holder away from the driver and hold to install the countersink bit. Insert the ¼’’ countersink bit into the driver with the hexagonal end going in first. Once the bit is seated to the back of the cordless driver chuck, the black knurled sleeve can be released. Slightly pull on the countersink to ensure it is properly secured.

22. Place the aluminum bracket in a vice with aluminum soft jaws in place and tighten. If aluminum soft jaws are not in the vice already, they can be retrieved from a nearby vice or tooling room.

23. Countersink the three middle 11/64” holes by slowly loweringf the countersink tool into the drilled holes in the most perpendicular angle possible.

24. Slowly squeeze the trigger between ¼ to ½ of a pull. Do not fully squeeze the trigger. 25. Countersink until approximately 3­5mm of radial countersink shows. Use the following

picture for referance. Measuring with a ruler is not necessary. Instead put a number 8 fastening screw in the hole, the screw head should be flush to slightly recessed with the aluminum bracket

26. Repeat until all three middle 11/64” holes have been countersunk. 27. Remove the finished bracket from the vise and place into the “finished brackets” box.

PROCESS 4 ­ Tumbler

Setup time = 1 minuteCycle time = 60 minutes

1. Locate the Tumbler and remove the lid by unscrewing counter­clockwise the center locking knob on top of the lid. The locking knob may be loosened by turning the knob in the counterclockwise direction.

2. Remove any aluminum parts inside the tumbler but leave the dark, cylindrical chips. Place any found aluminum parts in a secure location.

3. Replace the lid but do not fully tighten the center locking knob. 4. Retrieve 1­5 milled Aluminum bracket from stock shelf labeled “Milled Bracket”. 5. Remove the lid again by unscrewing the center locking knob on the top of the lid and

place 1­5 milled aluminum brackets into Tumbler hopper. 6. Place the lid back on top of the Tumbler and tighten the center locking knob. The knob

may be tightened by spinning it in the clockwise direction. Tighten the knob to full hand strength, do not use tools to over tighten the knob.

7. Plug in the Tumbler to AC 120 wall outlet. To turn the Tumbler on, locate the ON/OFF wheel on the power cord. Roll the wheel in a clockwise direction to turn the machine ON. Leave machine running for approximately 60 minutes.

8. Once time is up, check to see if bracket is finished by making sure there are no sharp edges and the finish is an even matte. If the finish is not matte, place the bracket back in the Tumbler for another 60 minutes.

9. Once an even matte finish covers the bracket. Remove the aluminum bracket and return the bracket to the stock shelf.

BOTTOM BRACKET

PROCESS 1 ­ Preparing Wood for Assembly, Routing and Chop Saw

Setup time = 3 minutes Cycle time = 2 minutes

1. Select two 2.4” width pieces of birch from stockpile. Select one 3” width piece.

2. Adding the top chamfer ­ Table Router a. SETUP

i. Make sure routing table is on a sturdy surface; if possible, clamp legs down or secure in some other method

ii. Dimension setup: Retrieve Fixture BR210 and BR211 iii. Vertical Guide Distance (FIXTURE BR211)

1. Loosen vertical guide knobs (2) so that it can move freely. Do not over loosen the knobs.

2. Install fixture BR211 in horizontal channel located on router table on either left or right side (process will need to be repeated for other side).

3. Move the vertical guide towards the end of Fixture BR211 until it touches. Tighten the knob on the corresponding side you have measured.

4. Remove Fixture BR211 and place in channel on other side that has not been measured.

5. Repeat steps ii and iii. 6. Remove Fixture BR211.

iv. Router Bit Height Setup (FIXTURE BR 210) 1. Install Fixture BR210 in Router

a. If Fixture does not fit between top of router and vertical guide, the router bit must be lowered.

b. If Fixture has extra space between the router bit and the fixture, the router bit must be raised.

2. To change router bit position, locate the knob on the rear of the router housing and turn left until loose enough; make sure the router body is supported with a hand (5 lb. load).

3. Raise router bit until it makes contact with the Fixture. 4. Tighten the knob on the rear of the router so that the bit is securely

in place. 5. Remove Fixture BR210.

b. Turning on the router i. Underneath the table, locate the left handle of the router. Support the

bottom of the router with a hand. ii. Turn the router on by pulling the trigger. iii. To keep router continuously on, simultaneously pull the trigger and push

the button located next to the trigger. iv. The router should now be running continuously.

c. Creating the chamfer. i. Using the 2.4” wood pieces, Place the desired edge downwards on the

router table with the desired edge against the vertical guide on the RIGHT side of the router.

ii. Move the wood from RIGHT to LEFT across the router bit slowly and carefully.

iii. Repeat this for the other 2.4” wood piece.

PROCESS 2 ­ Sanding, Gluing, Clamping

Setup time = 1 minuteCycle time = 5 minutes

1. Sand each piece of wood so that surface is smooth and there are no rough edges. 2. Place 2.4” piece of wood on flat surface with the chamfer side down. 3. With the 3” piece, add small layer of glue to edge and carefully place 3” piece along the

same length of the 2.4” making sure that the unchamfered edge is not glued.

4. Clamp the wood together at both ends and in the middle. 5. Wipe excess glue from joints using scrap wood edge.

6. Allow the glue to cure for 10 minutes before adding the second 2.4” piece. 7. Repeat for the second 2.4” piece. Allow 30 minutes for glue to fully cure and 24 hours

before stress is applied to joints.

PROCESS 3 ­ Cutting Bottom Bracket to Size, Adding Secondary Chamfers

Setup time = 3 minutes Cycle time = 1 minute

1. Using Fixture BR209, mark every three inches along the top of the bracket (horizontal edge next to chamfer).

2. Using chop saw, cut at every line marked to create an individual part. a. NOTE: Chop saw’s current clamp is not wide enough. Remove and use C­clamp

or Quick­Grip clamp to secure wood. 3. Repeat this process until all parts are completed.

4. Adding the smaller chamfers (4 total) a. Using the table router, add a chamfer to each of the 4 edges perpendicular to the

original chamfer. 5. Sand any rough edges or chips. 6. Sand faces in grain direction to prepare for staining.

PROCESS 4 ­ Staining, Enamel

Setup time = 2 minutes Cycle time = 77 minutes

1. Make sure stain is stirred well. 2. Using a paintbrush, apply a small amount of stain to the surface. Make sure strokes are in

grain direction to ensure optimal stain absorption. 3. Allow stain to penetrate the wood for a minimum of 5 minutes. 4. Reapply stain and allow to sit for 1 hour. 5. With bottom bracket facing upwards, spray one layer of satin finish, making sure it is

evenly coated and not too thick. 6. Allow to sit for 10 minutes before moving or touching.

PROCESS 5 ­ Drill Press Holes

Setup time = 3 minutes Cycle time = 1 minute

1. Using Fixture BR209, place between walls of bottom bracket. 2. Punch holes that are labeled on fixture. 3. Install 11/64” bit into drill press. Make sure drill press is on a lower speed setting, around

1000 RPM. 4. Drill through­all holes at indicated places.

BIRCH BACKPLATE

PROCESS 1 ­ Cutting Birch to Width Using Table Saw

Setup time = 1 minutes Cycle time = 1 minutes

1. Select birch piece that is at least 4.5 inches wide. 2. On table saw, set guide to 4 inch width. 3. IMPORTANT: Make sure there are no staples or other metals embedded in wood piece.

This will cause an emergency stop in the table saw and it will be unusable until a new safety brake is installed.

4. To turn on saw, make sure there is nothing on the table and pull the red lever towards you. Table saw should be running.

5. Carefully place the wood face down on the table against the guide. If wood is not flush or there are gaps, turn it over to use the squarest face possible.

6. Slowly move the wood forward to engage the blade. Continue pushing until the wood has gone all the way through the blade.

a. NOTE: Make sure you use a push stick and that the wood is in contact with the table at all times. DO NOT put hands near or around the table saw as this is a very dangerous tool.

PROCESS 2 ­ Cutting Birch to Backplate Length Using Chop Saw

Setup time = 3 minutes Cycle time = 4 minutes

1. From raw materials, select birch plank that is 4 inches wide.

2. MEASURING

a. Measure 1 inch from end of wood ­ this is a buffer from the ends of the wood (may contain defects) and the zero from which the measurements will be taken. Use a square to draw a line across the width of the board.

b. Using a ruler, mark every 10 inches from the zero until the end of the board is reached. Use a square to draw a line across the width of the board.

1. CHOP SAW a. NOTE: Make sure to choose the side with the best finish. Avoid choosing wood

that has many blemishes or cut around the blemish if possible.

b. Slightly push down chop saw and pull out chop saw safety pin. Push the handle down approximately ¼” to pull out the pin, do not push the handle all the way down. Saw blade should raise on its own.

c. Plug chop saw into outlet. DO NOT PULL TRIGGER UNTIL WOOD SECURED.

d. Move wood under blade so that the width of the wood is in contact with the horizontal surface and the vertical edge of the wood is in contact with the vertical stop on the chop saw.

e. Align the drawn lines with the saw blade by lowering the blade until it touches the wood ­ make sure the pencil markings are directly underneath the blade.

f. Grab the clamp and put it into the hole (if necessary).

g. Secure the wood by turning the clamp clockwise until it cannot be turned any

more.

h. Raise the blade roughly 2”­3” off the wood and pull the trigger to engage the saw. i. Check the angled cut area under the saw blade. It should be set to 0 degrees.

Adjust as necessary by loosening the front knob. j. Check the saw blade angle. It should also be set to 0 degrees. Adjust this by

loosening the knob to the rear of the saw and pulling/pushing the saw top handle along the track until the saw reaches the desired angle.

k. Slowly lower the saw blade to begin cut. Continue cutting until complete separation and continue to keep the blade spinning and raise the chop saw until it is no longer in contact with the wood.

l. Release the trigger to end the cutting. m. Repeat until wood is fully cut. n. Unplug chop saw from outlet. o. Push down the handle until the blade is secured in the sheath while pushing the

safety pin back into it's secured position. p. Measure the final cut for quality using a measuring device, the part should be 10”

+/­ ¼”. q. Place the cut 10 inch wood in the designated storage space.

PROCESS 3 ­ Routing the Sides of the Backplate (TABLE ROUTER)

Setup time = 3 minutes Cycle time = 3 minutes

1. SETUP a. Make sure routing table is on a sturdy surface b. Dimension setup: Retrieve Fixture BR210 and BR211 c. Vertical Guide Distance (FIXTURE BR211)

i. Loosen vertical guide knobs (2) so that it can move freely. Do not over loosen the knobs.

ii. Install fixture BR211 in horizontal channel located on router table on either left or right side (process will need to be repeated for other side).

iii. Move the vertical guide towards the end of Fixture BR211 until it touches. Tighten the knob on the corresponding side you have measured.

iv. Remove Fixture BR211 and place in channel on other side that has not been measured.

v. Repeat steps ii and iii. vi. Remove Fixture BR211.

d. Router Bit Height Setup (FIXTURE BR 210) i. Install Fixture BR210 in Router

1. If Fixture does not fit between top of router bit and vertical guide, the router bit must be lowered.

2. If Fixture has extra space between the router bit and the fixture, the router bit must be raised.

ii. To change router bit position, locate the knob on the rear of the router housing and turn left until loose enough; make sure the router body is supported with a hand.

iii. Raise router bit until it makes contact with the Fixture.

iv. Tighten the knob on the rear of the router so that the bit is securely in place.

v. Remove Fixture BR210. 2. Turning on the router

a. Underneath the table, locate the left handle of the router.

b. Turn the router on by pulling the trigger. c. To keep router continuously on, simultaneously pull the trigger and push the

button located next to the trigger. d. The router should now be running continuously.

3. Creating the chamfer. a. Place the desired front face downwards on the router table with one of the edges

against the vertical guide on the RIGHT side of the router.

b. Move the wood from RIGHT to LEFT across the router bit slowly and carefully.

c. Repeat for each side.

PROCESS 4 ­ Drilling Holes in Backplate (DRILL PRESS)

Setup time = 7 minutes Cycle time = 2 minutes

1. Marking the holes a. Retrieve Fixture BR206 and BR207.

b. Place BR207 over the workpiece top left corner. It should be clearly marked on the fixture. Place BR206 in the internal corner of Fixture BR207.

c. BR207 should be in contact with the top and left side of the workpiece.

d. Using a punch and ball peen hammer, punch each hole marked with a green (through all) and red (marked to 0.7” depth) (5 total). Make sure to secure the fixture each time as it might shift during the punch.

M

2. SETUP FOR 7/64” HOLES a. Ensure that the machine is plugged in. If using the 220V drill press, make sure

the teeth are aligned correctly with the electrical socket. b. Drill stop ­ the drill stop is unnecessary for this process and the operator should

ensure that the stop should not be set within 6 inches minimum. c. Retrieve BR 628 (wood block) and make sure that the surface is clean and free of

oil. Clamp this to the work surface using a C­clamp. d. Retrieve 3/16” and 7/64” drill bits. Use calipers to ensure the drill bits are the

correct sizes. Measure the top of the drill bits not the flutes. e. 7/64” bit must be marked to drill at 0.6” depth +/­ 0.1. This can be done by

setting the depth limit or by using masking tape to indicate the appropriate depth of cut. For the tape method, measure 0.6” from the tip of the bit and wrap a piece of tape around it. The operator should not plunge below this depth when cutting.

f. Install 7/64” bit into drill chuck. Loosen chuck by rotating counter clockwise and tighten by rotating it clockwise. Once chuck cannot be hand tightened further, use the chuck key and rotate clockwise to properly secure the bit.

g. Ensure there is wood (BR628) underneath the workpiece to ensure that the bit does not come in contact with the steel work surface.

h. Clamps are unnecessary for this process. 3. Drilling 7/64” holes (middle three punches only)

a. While the drill press is OFF, align drill bit with punch by plunging until it barely makes contact with wood (bit should be centered directly above first punch). If the plunge motion is impeded bt

i. TIP ­ bit should “fall” or be assisted in alignment by the punch. If this does not occur and the bit does not fall into the punch, make sure the punch is deep enough to facilitate the bit falling into place. Repunch the hole and make sure the bit is aligned properly.

b. Turn on drill press and make sure speed is around 1000­1200 RPM. If speed is not correct, while drill press is on slowly turn the knob at the top of the machine to the corresponding speed.

c. Slowly plunge bit down into wood until the marker is reached. d. Slowly raise the bit to finish the cut while making sure the wood is secure. e. Repeat for other two middle holes.

4. Drilling 3/16” holes (top and bottom punches only) a. Install 3/16” bit into drill press. Tighten with chuck key. b. Align drill bit with punch by plunging (while drill press is off) until it barely

makes contact with wood (bit should be centered directly above first punch)

c. Turn on drill press and make sure speed is around 1000­1200 RPM. If speed is not correct, while drill press is on slowly turn the knob at the top of the machine to the corresponding speed.

d. Align bit and punch hole. e. Turn on drill press. Make sure wood has not moved. f. Slowly plunge bit down into wood until it has gone through the workpiece. g. Slowly raise the bit to finish the cut while making sure the wood is secure.

PROCESS 5 ­ Applying Stain Finish

Setup time = 4 minutes Cycle time = 15 minutes

1. Sand each piece of wood in the grain direction with 220 grit sandpaper. 2. Make sure stain is stirred and fully mixed. 3. Using a paint brush, apply small amount of stain to workpiece until it is fully covered

except for the back (back only needs one coat). 4. Allow to sit for a minimum of 5 minutes. 5. Wipe excess stain off of workpiece. 6. Apply second layer of stain; apply stain to back of piece and allow to sit for minimum of

5 minutes. 7. Wipe excess stain off of workpiece. 8. Allow stain to fully penetrate for at least an hour before moving to enamel finish. 9. If there are still blotchy areas, apply a small amount of stain to those areas and wipe after

5 minutes of contact. 10. Stain backside using one coat and allow to sit for 5 minutes. 11. Wipe excess stain when finished.

PROCESS 6 ­ Applying Enamel Finish to Birch Backplate

Setup time = 3 minutes Cycle time = 62 minutes

1. Shake can 5­14 times or until the operator can hear the mixing ball inside the can rattle around to ensure enamel is fully mixed.

2. Inspect the wood piece with clean hands. Rub fingers across the wood to check for smoothness from sanding. If the workpiece has not been sanded, sand with 110 or 220 grit sandpaper until smooth finish is achieved.

3. Remove any debris from wood piece using a clean shop rag or paper towel. Be careful as to not leave behind any fibers from cleaning cloth, rag or paper.

4. Place the workpiece so that the front face is facing upwards on the on a clean surface. Surface should be clean cement, workbench that can be painted on or disposable paper.

5. Remove the cap from clear satin finish. Inspect label to ensure it is the correct finish for wood and not the rust­oleum for metal.

6. Align index finger with arrow atop the spray cap for alignment of spray finish. 7. Depress spry button holding can 12­14 inches away from surface. First spray

horizontally, then repeat vertically waiting 1­3 minutes between coats. The first coat should be light, this is the base all other coats will stick to. The Second coat should moderate. The third coat should be another light coat.

8. Allow to dry for 1 hour before stacking parts for storage.

PROCESS 7 ­ Installing Garment Hooks

Setup time = 4 minutes Cycle time = 4 minutes

1. Retrieve Fixture BR216. 2. Align Fixture BR216 on bottom of backplate so that the edges line up with each other. 3. Punch holes in designated holes. 4. Retrieve a 3/32” drill bit and use masking tape and calipers to mark cutting depth to 0.5”. 5. Using handheld drill, drill perpendicular to surface of backplate to designated depth. 6. Do this for all 4 marked areas. 7. Align garment hook with holes over the drilled holes. 8. Install the screws to secure the garment hook.

WHEEL TRAY, HINGE AND HOOK

PROCESS 1 ­ Cutting the Angle Iron ­ Iron Worker

Setup time = 3 minutes Cycle time = 1 1/2 minutes

1. Slide the angle iron into the Iron Worker in the V­section with piece being cut facing towards you and the extra material resting on a level support.

2. Using fixture BR­200, line up the edge of the fixture to the angle iron to make a shearing mark to cut a 9” piece. Use a marking pen to make line at the end of BR­200 or keep BR­200 in the angle iron until ready to cut.

3. If the angle iron extends more than a foot off the front of the machine, place the green support bar underneath the material and ensure that the support is properly set up so that it doesn’t move while you're cutting.

4. Firmly grip the stock that extends on the operator’s side. 5. Press the green START button located by your left knee. You should hear the machine

turn on. All hands should be away from the machine at this point. If the machine does not turn on, find the power cord and make sure it is plugged into a AC 220v socket. The Iron Worker and horizontal bandsaw share one socket, so the plugs may have to be switched out if you or someone else was just using the other saw. The socket prongs must be aligned such that the key way prong goes in its mating female prong.

6. Check the lever located next to the power supply labeled with S and P positions, make sure the lever is in the upright position S for shear.

7. With a firm grip on the 9” measured piece of angle iron and fixture BR 200 removed, use your foot to press and hold the pedal under the START/STOP buttons. This will lower the shear. Release the pedal once you hear the metal cut and the shear will automatically return to its home position.

8. Press the red STOP button located just below the green START button to turn off the machine.

9. Your cut piece should be at the back of the machine on either the ramp, floor, or wedged under the ramp. Once the piece is cut, use calipers, BR 200 or a measuring tape to ensure it is between 9.1” +/­ .2”.

10. Repeat the above steps to cut the rest of the wheel trays. 11. To clean the Iron Worker, make sure it’s unplugged, that you’ve put your stock back in

the pile, and the supports are put back where you found them (usually tucked around Iron Worker and horizontal band saw). Sweep the area around ironworker.

12. Then put your work pieces away on stock shelf labeled “Angle Iron W.I.P.”.

PROCESS 2 ­ Grinding Angle Iron

Setup Time: 2 minutesCycle Time: 7 minutes

1. On a 9” piece of angle iron, make a ⅜” mark down the spine of the angle iron. Connect this mark using a straight edge left most corner of the angle iron completing a 30­60­90 triangle with fixture BR 213

2. Mark a 0.5” radius on the inside corners of the three remaining sides using fixture BR214 0.5” radius tool.

3. Once marked, move to the grinding wheel. 4. Put on a face shield to protect from any sparks during the grinding process. 5. Before turning the grinding wheel on, check that the grinding platform is level and no

more than 0.125” from the grinding wheel. If the wheel appears to be more than 0.125” use a measuring device to check and adjust platform as necessary.

6. Locate the power cord to the rear of the motor. Ensure it is plugged into the appropriate wall socket or extension cord. If using an extension cord, ensure it is energized.

7. Turn the switch, located in the center of the machine at waist level, to the on position. Always turn off the machine if you walk away from it for any reason ( i.e. quenching).

8. Wait 5 seconds for the wheel to reach its operating speed. 9. Place the angle iron flush against the grinding platform with the top left marked section

towards the grinding wheel. 10. Push the angle iron against the wheel, removing a layer following the angle of the mark.

Use the center of the outer portions of the wheel perpendicular to the grinding platform. Do not use the sides of the wheel to grind material.

11. Continue this process until all material within the marked region has been removed. 12. Quench in water.

13. Flip the angle iron to the top right side, flush against the grinding platform. 14. Using a smooth rounding motion, grind off material until the edges follow the 0.25”

radius mark

15. Continue this process for all three marked edges to eliminate any sharp corners. 16. Quench hot parts in water as necessary. 17. To deburr, flip the angle iron over such that the spine is facing the operator. Round the

edges using the same motion as the above steps. 18. After grinding is completed, quench the piece in water a final time. Dry with paper

towels or shop rag.

19. Turn off the grinder after the top triangle has been removed and corners rounded. Wait next to the grinding wheel until its rotation has reached a safe speed, do not use hands or tools to slow its rotation.

PROCESS 3 ­ Removing Blemishes/Rust from Angle Iron ­ Wire Wheel

Setup time: 1 minute Cycle time: 4 minutes

1. After the grinding process has been completed inspect the angle iron for rust and grime. If rust and/or grime is present, move to the wire wheel for removal.

2. Put on a face shield for protection from sparks. Remove all jewelry and place in a secure location, do not wear gloves.

3. Locate the plug to the rear of the wire wheel motor, plug into the appropriate socket. 4. Turn on the wire wheel with the switch located on the center of the machine at waist

height. 5. Orient the angle iron downwards along the rotation of the wire wheel. Use care in

avoided direct contact with the wire wheel while it is in motion.

6. Using consistent pressure and movement, move the four faces of the angle iron along the wire wheel to remove any visible rust and polish the surface.

7. Next, orient the edges of the angle iron towards the wire wheel to be deburred. 8. Use constant pressure and movement to ensure an even finish. 9. Repeat process for every wheel tray

10. Move switch located at waist height to the off position and remain by machine until rotation stops.

11. Take angle iron to bench vise and clamp as shown.

12. Grab red, hand held wire wheel from tool cabinet in tool room and plug in.

13. Turn on wire wheel with hand trigger and finish removing remaining rust along the spine of the angle iron.

14. Once finished, return the angle iron to the cage. Be careful as the angle iron may become warm.

15. Unplug and return handheld wire wheel to cabinet in tool room.

PROCESS 4 ­ Cutting rectangle tire hook with Iron Worker

Setup time = 1 minuteCycle time = 1 minute

1. Slide the rectangular tire hook into the V­section of the Iron Worker with the elbow in the center of the shear line.

2. Press the green button located by your left knee. You should hear the machine turn on. All hands should be away from the machine at this point. If the machine does not turn on, find the power cord and make sure it is plugged into a 220v socket. The Iron Worker and horizontal bandsaw share one socket, so the plugs may have to be switched out if you or someone else was just using the other saw.

3. Firmly grip the hook that extends on the operator’s side.

4. Using your foot, press and hold the pedal. This will lower the shear. Release the pedal once you hear the metal cut and the shear will automatically return to its home position.

5. Remove the Rectangular tire hook from the Iron Worker. 6. Using an angle ruler, measure an overall length of 7” on the hooks arm using a pencil.

7. Slide the tire hook into the V­section of the ironworker and line the mark you made up with the edge of the shear line closest to you.

8. Firmly grip the hook that extends on the operator’s side.

9. Make sure there is no excess scrap material near the zone where the blade makes the cut. 10. Using your foot, press and hold the pedal. This will lower the shear. Release the pedal

once you hear the metal cut and the shear will automatically return to its home position.

11. Press the red button located just below the green button to turn off the machine. 12. Your cut piece should be in your hand, using the angle ruler ensure the overall length is

within a tolerance of 7” +/­ .1” 13. Repeat the above steps to cut the rest of the tire hooks. 14. To clean the Iron Worker once all tire hooks are cut, make sure it’s unplugged, that

you’ve put your stock back in the pile, and the supports are put back where you found them (usually tucked around Iron Worker and horizontal band saw). Sweep the area around ironworker.

PROCESS 5 ­ Rectangular hook bending

Setup time= 3 minutesCycle time= 1.5 minutes

1. Mount the Harbor Freight bender in the appropriate mounting holes using the two steel bolts and washers with the 9/16” wrench, see pictures below.

2. Using a ruler measure 1.75” from the end of the rectangular hook arm end without rubber, make a mark with marker or pencil.

3. Rotate the Harbor Freight bender arm counter clockwise to its limit. Ensure the die­holding pins are out of the way. Make sure the pins and die are installed according to the pictures below. Die A should be used for this process

4. While the bending arm is at its limit in the counterclockwise direction. Insert the arm of the rectangular hook with the mark resting against the pins in the configuration below. Align the 1.75” mark you made on the inside of the pivot pin.

5. Make sure the contour of the hook is pointing clockwise and parallel to the flat bending stand and apply pressure using the bending arm to stop any movement.

6. Pull the bender arm firmly and steadily toward you (clockwise) until the arm completely covers the drawn line on the bender before the Line labeled HP. Be careful not to bend past the drawn line as this will make the part unacceptable. The drawn line should be in between the 5th and 6th holes clockwise from the 12 o'clock position.

7. Stop and hold for 3 seconds once the line is completely covered. 8. Return arm to starting position. 9. Remove the bent hook and use a protractor to measure the angle of the bend is 30 degrees

+/­ 2 degrees. 10. Repeat the above steps to bend the rest of the hook arms.

PROCESS 6 ­ Hinge Pin Bending ­ Bender

Setup time= 3 minutesCycle time= 2.5 minutes

1. Mount the Harbor Freight bender in the appropriate mounting holes using the two steel bolts and washers with the 9/16” wrench, see pictures below.

1. Using a ruler, measure 2.5” from the end of the ⅜” steel bar stock. Mark a line with a sharpie.

2. Rotate the Harbor Freight bender arm counterclockwise to its limit. Ensure the die­holding pins are out of the way. Make sure the pins and die are installed according to the pictures below. Die A should be used for this process.

3. While the bending arm is at its limit in the counterclockwise direction, insert the stock from left to right, leaving the long end of the stock on your left. Make sure the stock is resting against the flat, bottom surface of the bender arm.

4. Align the 2.5” mark you made with the outside of the left pin. 5. Pull the bender arm firmly and steadily toward you (clockwise) until the arm completely

covers the drawn line on the bender (labeled “HP”). Be careful not to bend past the drawn line as this will make the part unacceptable. The drawn line should be in between the 8th and 9th holes clockwise from the 12 o'clock position

6. Stop and hold for 3 seconds once the line is completely covered. 7. Return arm to starting position. 8. Using a square ruler, ensure the angle of the bend is 90 degrees +/­ 2 degrees. If the pin is

less than 90 degrees, reinsert into the bender and keep bending until it reaches 90 degrees.

9. Take the bent bar stock to the Iron Worker and follow its directions of use. 10. Align the 2.5” mark you made earlier with the middle of the two blades. If you must, err

towards the blade that is farther from you. If the piece is cut shorter than it will not be an acceptable part.

11. Repeat the above steps to bend the rest of hinge pins.

PROCESS 7 ­ Cutting Hinge Pins ­ Iron Worker

Setup time = 3 minutes Cycle time = 1 1/2 minutes

1. Using a ruler measure 2.5” increments on the ⅜” steel bar stock, then make a line with a sharpie.

2. Slide the ⅜” bar stock into the Iron Worker in the V­section and line the mark you made up with the edge of the cutting table below the shear using a flashlight to help ensure mark is centered.

3. If the angle iron extends more than one foot off the front of the machine, place the green support bar underneath the material ensuring that the feet are spread apart so it does not move while you are cutting.

4. Firmly grip the ⅜” bar stock that extends on the operator’s side. 5. Press the green button located by your left knee. You should hear the machine turn on.

All hands should be away from the machine at this point. If the machine does not turn on, find the power cord and make sure it is plugged into a 220v socket. The Iron Worker and horizontal bandsaw share one socket, so the plugs may have to be switched out if you or someone else was just using the other saw.

6. Using your foot, press and hold the pedal. This will lower the shear. Release the pedal once you hear the metal cut and the shear will automatically return to its home position.

7. Press the red button located just below the green button to turn off the machine. 8. Your cut piece should be at the back of the machine on either the ramp, floor, or wedged

under the ramp. Once the piece is cut, using calipers ensure it is between the tolerance of 2.5” +/­ 0.1”.

9. Repeat the above steps to cut the rest of the hinge pins. 10. To clean the Iron Worker, make sure it’s unplugged, that you’ve put your stock back in

the pile, and the supports are put back where you found them (usually tucked around Iron Worker and horizontal band saw). Sweep the area around ironworker.

PROCESS 8 ­ Hinge Pin Grinding

Setup time= 30 seconds Cycle time= 30 seconds

1. Plug in the yellow bench grinder.

2. Grip the hinge pin using vise grips along the long side, leaving approximately ½”.

3. Make sure to wear appropriate PPE, face shield is located on the wall behind the belt sander.

4. Turn on bench grinder using OFF/ON switch on front of grinder. 5. Hold hinge pin against the bench grinder at an angle and rotate along that angle until

there is an even chamfer around the hinge pin. There is no exact measurement or size, the goal is to remove all the sharp edges.

6. Quench hinge pin in water cup mounted in red bench grinder. 7. Move to vertical belt sander and make sure it is plugged in. 8. Hold short end of of the hinge pin flat against the belt sander’s platform.

9. Turn belt sander on using ON/OFF switch on front of sander. 10. Sand the hinge pin until the short end becomes a flat surface. Be careful of the hinge pin

becoming hot. 11. Quench the hinge pin in water cup mounted in red bench grinder. 12. Return pin to box labeled “hinge pins” in cage.

PROCESS 9 ­ MIG Welding ­ Hinge Pin

Setup time= 5 minutesCycle time= 7 minutes

1. Using a clamp, attach fixture BR203 to the bottom left of the spine with a locking vice grip so the edges of the fixture and angle iron are flush and the rectangular hook grove is on the right side.

2. Place the short side of the hinge pin (1”) on the fixture so that it is just to the right of the designated mark and touching the spine of the angle iron.

3. Line up the hinge pin to the designated mark and clamp it to the fixture using a locking vice grip.

4. Repeat this process for the second hinge pin, and use a ruler to ensure they are both equidistant from the top edge of the welding fixture and 4” from each other. This ensures that the hinge pins are 90 degrees from the angle iron.

5. Retrieve a long sleeve welding jacket from the hangers outside the welding area. Retrieve welding gloves from the storage cart next to the welding jackets. Put jacket on. Wear the gloves when entering the welding area and handling parts that may be hot.

6. Retrieve a welding helmet. Check the dials and gauges on the interior of the helmet. Set sensitivity to H for high, shade to 12 and delay to S for short. Set the dials by twisting the pointed arrow dials in rotary motion until the dial points at the aforementioned settings. Next press the test button, the view glass should flash its darkest setting signaling that the

batteries are good. Lastly push the Weld/Grind switch to weld by pushing the switch in the vertical direction.

7. Before entering the welding area turn on the ventilation hood by pressing the black

START button on the wall above the welding jacket hooks. Press and hold this button for approximately one second.

8. To the right of the exhaust switches is the overhead light switch, turn the lights on by flipping the switch up. You will be able to read ON under the switch and see light inside the welding area.

9. Set up the MIG welder. Plug in the 220v power cord into the outlet, plug the key way prong into its proper female socket.

10. Take the ground and clamp it to the welding table you are working on. 11. On the Argon tank, turn the wheel counterclockwise to open the tank. Turn it until it is all

the way open. The gauges should shoot up. The gauge on the left is the regulator. DO NOT touch this valve. The gauge on the right is how much PSI is left in the tank. Ensure that the regulator reads between 18­22 CHF, and the PSI reads above 500 psi.

12. Make sure your wire speed is between 25­30 and you amperage is on 3. The wire speed is the dial on the left and the amperage is the dial on the right. If you are still confused, the wire speed has numbers in increments of 20, 30, 40 and the amperage has increments 1, 2, 3, 4. Make sure amperage is set on a specific number and not between two numbers. An experienced welder may adjust wire speed and voltage to better suit their welding style, however novice welders should use the recommended settings.

13. Grab the gun and check out the wire. It should be sticking out about a quarter of an inch. If it is sticking out more, cut the wire to the desired length. If not enough wire is protruding from the gun, pointed the gun away from any metal and turn on the machine using the main power switch on the front.

14. Press the button on the gun to release more wire and let go when wire is at the desired length. Turn the machine off.

15. Orient the clamped fixture so the contact point of the hinge pins and angle iron spine are facing you.

16. Turn on the welding using the power switch on the front of the machine. 17. Make sure our welding helmet is on and check that it is functioning by pressing test or on

and make sure you yell cover. 18. Point the gun at your part so that the protruding wire is close, but not touching the metal.

19. Place a small tack weld between the hinge pin and angle iron spine. 20. Pull the trigger until a weld pool begins to form.

21. Repeat this process for the second hinge pin. 22. Remove the fixture from the wheel tray. 23. Using a square, check to make sure the hinge pins are at a 90 degree angle to the angle

iron spine and aligned properly. 24. If not properly aligned bring the part to the vise and insert the side with the hinge pins

into the vise and tighten to fix alignment issues 25. Double check fitment by inserting the welded part into an aluminum hinge. If fitment is

not correct repeat step 23 and 24. If those steps do not correct the alignment, grab a hammer and persuade the hinge pin to the right position using an anvil.

26. After the hinge pins’ alignment is correct, return to the welding are to complete the welds.

27. Pull the trigger and begin welding once a pool forms, push that pool around the base of the joint (creating a bridge between the two parts) using little cursive S’s over and over.

28. Repeat this process for the second hinge pin.

29. When finished, turn the machine off. Quench your part using a pair of pliers since the metal will be hot.

30. With the machine still off, close the Argon tank by turning the handle clockwise. Turn the machine back on and lower the wire feed all the way down.

31. Pointing away from any metals, turn the machine back on and look at the gauges. Pull the trigger until both gauges reach zero. Cut whatever wire is sticking out.

32. Turn off the machine again, put the gun away and disconnect your negative.

PROCESS 10 ­ Rectangular hook welding

Setup time= 5 minutesCycle time= 7 minutes

1. On a piece of prepared angle iron, place a bent rectangular hook into the grinded groove on the top left of the angle iron.

2. With locking vice grips, clamp the arm of the rectangular hook to the grinded groove so that its edge is fully seated.

3. Using the flat surface of the table, adjust the angle of the hook so that it is square with the angle iron.

4. A good way to reference this is by placing the hook and angle iron on the table and moving the entire wheel tray side to side to show any alignment issues

5. Retrieve a long sleeve welding jacket from the hangers outside the welding area. Retrieve welding gloves from the storage cart next to the welding jackets. Put jacket on. Wear the gloves when entering the welding area and handling parts that may be hot.

6. Retrieve a welding helmet. Check the dials and gauges on the interior of the helmet. Set sensitivity to H for high, shade to 12 and delay to S for short. Set the dials by twisting the pointed arrow dials in rotary motion until the dial points at the aforementioned settings. Next press the test button, the view glass should fish its darkest setting signaling that the

batteries are good. Lastly push the Weld/Grind switch to weld by pushing the switch in

the vertical direction. 7. Before entering the welding area turn on the ventilation hood by pressing the black

START button on the wall above the welding jacket hooks. Press and hold this button for approximately one second.

8. To the right of the exhaust switches is the overhead light switch, turn the lights on by flipping the switch up. You will be able to read ON under the switch and see light inside the welding area.

9. Set up the MIG welder. Plug in the 220v power cord into the outlet, plug the key way prong into its proper female socket.

10. Take the ground and clamp it to the welding table you are working on. 11. On the Argon tank, turn the wheel counterclockwise to open the tank. Turn it until it is all

the way open. The gauges should shoot up. The gauge on the left is the regulator. DO

NOT touch this valve. The gauge on the right is how much PSI is left in the tank. Ensure that the regulator reads between 18­22 CHF, and the PSI reads above 500 psi.

12. Make sure your wire speed is between 25­30 and you amperage is on 3. The wire speed is the dial on the left and the amperage is the dial on the right. If you are still confused, the wire speed has numbers in increments of 20, 30, 40 and the amperage has increments 1, 2, 3, 4. Make sure amperage is set on a specific number and not between two numbers. An experienced welder may adjust wire speed and voltage to better suit their welding style, however novice welders should use the recommended settings.

13. Grab the gun and check out the wire. It should be sticking out about a quarter of an inch. If it is sticking out more, cut the wire to the desired length. If not enough wire is protruding from the gun, pointed the gun away from any metal and turn on the machine using the main power switch on the front.

14. Press the button on the gun to release more wire and let go when wire is at the desired length. Turn the machine off.

15. Orient the clamped angle iron and tire hook towards you so the spine of the angle iron is pointed up.

16. Turn on the welding using the power switch on the front of the machine. 17. Make sure our welding helmet is on and check that it is functioning by pressing test or on

and make sure you yell cover. 18. Point the gun at your part so that the protruding wire is close, but not touching the metal. 19. Place a small tack weld between the tire hook and angle iron

20. Pull the trigger until a weld pool begins to form.

21. Remove the vice grips from the angle iron and tire hook. 22. Check if the tire hook and angle iron are lined up properly by placing it on a flat surface

face down without any rocking movement if pushed 23. If not properly aligned bring the part to the vise and insert tire hook into the vise and

slowly persuade the hook into the correct position 24. After the tire hook alignment is correct, return to the welding are to complete the welds. 25. Pull the trigger and begin welding once a pool forms, push that pool along the joint

(creating a bridge between the two parts) using little cursive S’s over and over. 26. Quench the weld and dry it off to prevent the rubber up the arm from melting. 27. Repeat this process for the opposite side of the angle iron and tire hook joint. 28. When finished, turn the machine off. Quench your part using a pair of pliers since the

metal will be hot. 29. With the machine still off, close the Argon tank by turning the handle clockwise. Turn

the machine back on and lower the wire feed all the way down. 30. Pointing away from any metals, turn the machine back on and look at the gauges. Pull the

trigger until both gauges reach zero. Cut whatever wire is sticking out. 31. Turn off the machine again, put the gun away and disconnect your negative.

PROCESS 6 ­ Applying Enamel Finish to Angle Iron Assembly

Setup time = 8 minutes Cycle time = 70 minutes

1. Inspect the Angle Iron Assembly for rust. If rust or debris are present, wire wheel the Angle Iron Assembly until rust has been removed.

2. Locate a suitable solvent to clean all oils from Angle iron assembly. Acetone solvent can be applied once operator has put on gloves and face mask.

3. Apply acetone solvent to clean shop rag or paper towel. Rub moist towel along entire surface of Angle Iron Assembly. Ensure Angle Iron Assembly is not touched with bare hands and not fibers remain on surface before enamel is applied. ****** how to dispose of acetone covered rag????????*********

4. Shake Rust­oleum clear matte enamel can 5­14 times or until the operator can hear the mixing ball inside the can rattle around to ensure enamel is fully mixed.

5. Place the workpiece so that the front face is facing upwards on the on a clean surface. Surface should be clean cement, workbench that can be painted on or disposable paper.

6. Remove the cap from clear satin finish. Inspect label to ensure it is the correct finish for wood and not the rust­oleum for metal.

7. Align index finger with arrow atop the spray cap for alignment of spray finish. 8. Depress spry button holding can 6­8 inches away from surface. First spray horizontally,

then repeat vertically waiting 2­3 minutes between coats. The first coat should be light, this is the base all other coats will stick to. The Second coat should moderate. The third coat should be another light coat.

9. Allow to dry for 1 hour before stacking parts for storage.

Package Design

Figure 1: Final Dieline with dimensions Figure 2: 3D Model

Containment Holds the products in place. There are slots which hold the products in place to

ensure that the products do not fall out. Another added feature is that a part of the box folds inwards which snaps the bottom bracket in place. This is all part of the dieline and does not require any extra material.

Communication Pull out tab on the top. This is communicates with the consumer without having

instructions on how to open the box. The tab perfectly allows easy access to opening the box. The package has a sleeve to communicate with the consumer on what is inside. Another way of communicating with the consumer is through the window. After removing the sleeve, the consumer can easily see what is inside of the box.

Protection

The box protects the product from scuffing while being shipped from one location to another. The package spaces the products out enough to prevent impact from one another as well as protection from the outside environment.

Convenience The bike rack package is easy to hold and is very sturdy. The box can easily stack

several other package­product on top and still hold. Another great feature is that the package is great for display so when the consumer is moving or does not plan on using the bike rack, he/she can leave the bike rack in the package to display in his/her room.

Environmental All on one single die line, made of corrugate and solid bleached sulfate. These

materials are commonly recycled and reused. Hours Worked By Team

Glossary of Terms Adhere ­ Stick fast to a surface or substance.

Artios CAD ­ the most popular structural packaging design program utilized in industry.

Back­plate ­ a piece of birch wood used to mount the bracket to the wall.

Bottom Bracket ­ A U shaped wooden mount used to hold the bottom wheel while the rack pivots.

Bracket ­ Hinge pin receiver mounted to the back­plate.

Calipers ­ Measurement tool down to the 1/1000t

Countersink ­ Enlarge and bevel the rim of (a drilled hole) so that a screw, nail or bolt can be inserted flush with the surface.

Fixture ­ Supportive device that securely orientates the work and ensures that all parts are uniformly made.

Hinge Pin­ 3/8 steel rod bent to 90 degrees that are inserted on the bracket, creating a hinge.

Peck Drilling ­ Involves plunging the drill part way through the work piece, no more than five times the diameter of the drill, and then retracting it to the surface. This is repeated until the hole is finished.

Rafter Rectangular Hook­ Hook that holds the tire in the wheel tray.

Router ­ a rotating cutting tool often used for cutting wood.

Stock ­ Original shape/form material came in.

Touch off Paper ­ About .0001”, used to get very close to a material with an end mill/drill­bit etc.

Welding ­ Fabrication or sculptural process that joins materials together.

Wheel Tray ­ Angle iron that holds the wheel and rotates on hinge pins and bracket access.

Drawing Revision Control