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Exclusive Conference Event: A Sustainable Model for the Dutch Calf Leather Supply Chain
JOHN FLETCHER STAHL
Compliancy & Sustainability Developments in the Leather Supply Chain
Compliancy & Sustainability Developments Emerging Trends in the Leather Supply Chain
ReVeal Conference
John Fletcher, 2 November, 2016
Key Market Trends
Chemical Compliancy is now a focus at the Brand level
Brands are investing heavily in Sustainability organizations
Non Government Organizations (NGO) are quite active
Tanneries partnering with brands on ‘Environmental Projects’
Chemical Suppliers will deliver ‘Environmental Solutions’
NGO Influence is Increasing
NGO focusing on hazardous substances in consumer brands
Awareness is created, but solutions are not necessarily provided
Compliancy vs. Environmental Impact
Chemical Compliancy Focused on hazardous substances & toxicity
Strong regional regulatory component
Compliancy is one component of Environmental Impact
Environmental Impact A more inclusive term, normally capturing a complete process
Carbon footprint, water quality, energy usage, renewable resource
Compliancy - Perspective from Chemical Suppliers
Agenda
Environmental Impact - Supply Chain Developments
Compliancy has now Evolved beyond Regulatory
Regulatory Component is established on a regional basis - REACH - TSCA
Industrial Compliancy now Created -> Reaction to NGO’s
Multinational Fashion & Apparel brands form ‘ZDHC’ Foundation
- Manufacturing Restricted Substance List for chemical companies (MRSL) - More restrictive compliancy as 2020 approaches
Regulatory vs. Industrial Compliancy Differences
Regional Approach opposed to Global Approach - Regulatory compliancy is a regional or national approach (REACH/TSCA) - RSL or MRSL are intended for global supply chains
Governance and Controls Systems
- MSDS are governed by regional regulations, not MRSL - Labeling is governed by Global Harmonized System (UN), not MRSL - MRSL is a Self Declaratory System - no controls system as yet
Restricted Substances vs. Manufacturers Restricted Substances
RSL RSL MRSL
Product Compliancy Chemical Compliancy
Tannery – Textile factory Shoe – Bag – Garment factory
Leather
Fabrics Hides
Chemicals
Emissions
Effluent Raw textiles
Divergence in Compliancy Systems
Variation in Global Regulatory Systems: REACH, TSCA, IECSC
Variation in Industrial Compliancy Systems: ZDHC, CHEM-IQ, The List
Not practical for chemical suppliers to support independently
Chemical industry will offer targeted portfolios
Objective to meet ALL Regulatory & Compliancy
Compliancy - Perspective from Chemical Suppliers
Agenda
Environmental Impact - Supply Chain Developments
Cradle-to-Gate Leather Supply Chain
Feedstock for farming
Fertilizer &
Herbicide Production
Tannery Beamhouse > Tanning > Retanning > Finishing
Animal Husbandry Breeding > Grazing > Fattening
Abattoir Slaughterhouse Operations
Co-Products
(milk/ cheese)
Co-Products
(meat/ offal)
Co-Products
(fertilizer)
Land / Water / Electricity and Fuels
Emissions
Chemical Production
Cut Parts
Waste Leather
Finished Leather
Fresh or Salted Hides Livestock
Solid waste Water Soil Air
Sustainability Developments for Leather Manufacturing
Defining Environmental Impact What is the Framework? - Life Cycle Analysis as methodology - Cradle-to-Gate approach - European Commission has launched ‘category rules’
Quantifying the Variables What to Measure? - Multiple Environmental Indicators are needed - Resource consumption/renewable resources are measured - CO2 discharge and O2 depletion important
Output Systems What is Reported? - Captures the entire manufacturing process of leather - Output is an Environmental Product Declaration (EPD)
Leather Process with Key Environmental Impact
1 Raw Hides
Water usage Effluent
quality
67% effluent load
2 Beamhouse
Chroming Water usage
14% effluent load
3 Tanning
Coloring Water
usage
18% effluent load
4 Retanning
Solvents Energy Usage
1% effluent load
5 Finishing
Raw Material to Wet Hide Dyeing & Finishing
Source Salt usage
Renewable Resource Example for Suppliers
Industry Challenges & Improvement Potential
Supply Chain is moving into Closer Alignment - Information exchange has expanded - Chemicals must address both compliancy and environmental impact
Compliancy Focus will expand into Environmental Impact
- Significant will be dedicated to Compliancy, thru 2020 - A transition will occur to broader sustainability approach
Manufacturing Elements with the Highest Improvement Potential - Consumption of Energy or Natural Resources - Quality of Water and Air which is Discharged
The leading specialist in process chemicals, dyes and coatings
Together we are Stahl
Quality Assurance in the veal supply chain by independent certified organization SKV
FREDDY VAN DE SAR, ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, SKV
Quality assurance in the veal supply chain
Freddy van der Sar Associate Director
ReVeal
Dutch Veal Sector
1-12-2016
Dutch Veal Sector 2015 • 2172 Veal Farms
• 1.615.324 Calves
Zeist, September 2015 WWW.SKV.INFO
1-12-2016
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
1995 2000 2005 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013
Slau
ghte
rwei
ght
(x10
00 to
n)
Veal production biggest producing countries in Europe
France
Netherlands
Italy
Germany
Belgium
1-12-2016
100.000
110.000
120.000
130.000
140.000
150.000
160.000
170.000
180.000
2009 2010 2011 2012 2013
Export Dutch veal
1990
1-12-2016
The SKV’s objective “To guarantee the quality of calf feed and veal that has been produced according to current quality regulations, in order to better serve the interests of the consumer and to stimulate the sale of veal produced under supervision.”
Zeist, September 2015
26.431 samples
Zeist, September 2015 WWW.SKV.INFO
30
11.063 Visual Audits
33
36
Integrated Chain Control
Zeist, September 2015 WWW.SKV.INFO
Integrated Chain Control (IKB)
• Animal Welfare • Food Safety
• Law • Market demand
Zeist, September 2015 WWW.SKV.INFO
Zeist, September 2015 WWW.SKV.INFO
Zeist, September 2015 WWW.SKV.INFO
Track & Trace
Zeist, September 2015 WWW.SKV.INFO
Track & Trace
Zeist, September 2015 WWW.SKV.INFO
• Identification & registration (I&R)
• Announcement of transports international and national
before departure in GTSKV
• SKV slaughterhouses stamp an SKV logo on the
carcasses:
Zeist, September 2015 WWW.SKV.INFO
Thank you for your attention. Any questions?
Freddy van der Sar Associate Director
ReVeal
TWAN DE BIE PALI GROUP, DIRECTOR ROMPA TANNERIES
Traceability: This bag was born and raised in Holland
ReVeal
ReVeal
Traceability: “This bag was born and raised in Holland”
ReVeal
Introduction
ing. T.L.A. de Bie MBA ab
Director ROMPA Tanneries
t.de.bie@paligroup.nl
+31 6-20 53 64 81
nl.linkedin.com/in/twandebie
@paligroup
PALI Group
ReVeal
MEMBER OF PALI GROUP
• Founded 1959
• From livestock trader to veal producer
• Family business, 2nd generation
• 4 countries (Netherlands, Belgium, Germany, Poland)
• 450 employees
• € 385 mio. turnover
• 3rd largest veal slaughterhouse in Europe
ReVeal
ROMPA TANNERIES
Joint venture:
ReVeal
ROMPA TANNERIES
ReVeal
ROMPA TANNERIES
INTEGRATED CHAIN
dairy farmer
livestock trader feed producer
collection centre veal farmer slaughter
house deboning
department tannery
supermarket, wholesale
leather goods manufacturer
consumer consumer
coldstore
From calf to leather
INTEGRATED CHAIN
CONTROLLED INTEGRATED CHAIN
Concepts: Beter Leven, Vitel Oké, etc.
Traceability of leather
PALI Group: integrated chain
Every in Holland raised calf is controlled and certified by SKV
ReVeal
SUSTAINABILITY & TRACEABILITY
• More and more important in the leather industry
• Sustainability:
• Animal welfare
• Employees
• Neighborhood
• Environment
• Water / waste / biogas
ReVeal
TRACEABILITY
The NEED to know where your product came from and where it has been
2 reasons for traceability of calf leather
1. Full transparency for our customer
• Sustainability and durability
2. Feedback to our farms
• Improve quality
ReVeal
IF YOU KNOW THE CALF, YOU KNOW EVERYTHING
ReVeal
IF YOU KNOW THE CALF, YOU KNOW EVERYTHING
ReVeal
IF YOU KNOW THE CALF, YOU KNOW EVERYTHING
ReVeal
IF YOU KNOW THE CALF, YOU KNOW EVERYTHING
ReVeal
IF YOU KNOW THE CALF, YOU KNOW EVERYTHING
ReVeal
IF YOU KNOW THE CALF, YOU KNOW EVERYTHING
ReVeal
IF YOU KNOW THE CALF, YOU KNOW EVERYTHING
ReVeal
…ON OUR WAY TO A SUSTAINABLE AND TRACEABLE LEATHER INDUSTRY
“This bag was born and raised in Holland”
THANK YOU
RACHEL WALLACE PROGRAMME PROJECT MANAGER ZDHC FOUNDATION
Next Steps in Chemical Compliancy
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
Signatory Brands:
November 2, 2016 Culemborg Rachel Wallace Programme Project Manager
Value-Chain Affiliates:
Associates:
The Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals Programme
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
69
Our Vision is widespread implementation of sustainable chemistry and best practices in the textile and footwear industries to protect consumers, workers and the environment.
Our Mission is to advance towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals in the global textile and footwear value-chain and act to improve the environment and people's well being.
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
Brief History:
70
2011
2016
The ZDHC Group begins as a coalition of six brands who form as a response to a collective call for action.
ZDHC committed brands publish the Joint Roadmap and commit to zero discharge of
hazardous chemicals by 2020. In 2013, ZDHC issues a Framework for the Prioritisation of Hazardous Chemicals. 11 new contributors join.
2015
In 2014, MRSL V.1 released; Chemical Guidance Sheets developed to assist suppliers
and mills in phasing out chemicals; Research list defined and developed.
In 2015, ZDHC’s updated Joint Roadmap is released - the Programme’s scope is refined to focus on six areas.
Wastewater Quality is added as an area of focus. ZDHC releases Textile Industry Wastewater Discharge Quality Standards Literature Review.
In 2015, Chemical Management Guidance System released, MRSL V.1.1 released (updated to include Leather).
ZDHC Transitions to management under the ZDHC Foundation. Programme’s First Executive Director, Board of
Directors, and ZDHC implementing team appointed.
ZDHC contributor base grown to include 22 Signatory Brands, 13 Value Chain affiliates and 7 Associates.
ZDHC Director of Asia appointed. ZDHC expands presence in China with CNTAC collaboration.
Industry Leaders Commit to ZERO
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
The ZDHC Team
71
Frank Michel, Executive Director
Annie Francis, Operations Director
Scott Echols, Technical Director
Lydia Lin, Asia Director
Rachel Wallace, Programme Project Manager
Lucy von Sturmer, Head of Communications
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
Focus / Cross – Cutting Area Updates
72
Focus Area: MRSL & Conformity Guidance
Focus Area: Research
Focus Area: Audit Protocol
Focus Area: Wastewater Quality
Cross-cutting Area: Data and Disclosure
Cross-cutting Area: Training
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
Our Approach
73
The operational plans for each focus area covers three types of work:
1. Standard setting: Creating and maintaining MRSL, Research, Audit
Protocol, Wastewater Quality and Training standards to achieve acceptance and use of these ZDHC tools and processes as industry standard.
2. Collaborative Implementation: Creating action plans to ensure implementation, adoption and widespread industry acceptance of ZDHC standards and processes.
3. Engagement – Identifying who and how we engage with key stakeholders to maintain the credibility of ZDHC standards and ensure adoption, implementation and widespread use of these standards.
Harmonising standards to support safer chemical management across the global textile and footwear value-chain.
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL)
74
The MRSL is a list of chemical substances banned from intentional use in facilities that process textile materials and trim parts in textile and footwear. It establishes acceptable concentration limits for these substances as impurities or by-products in chemical formulations used within manufacturing facilities.
Limits defined by the MRSL are designed to eliminate the possibility of intentional use of listed substances. Our goal is to have the ZDHC MRSL and conformity process guidance adopted as the global textile and footwear industry standard.
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
MRSL and Chemical Gateway
75
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
MRSL and Chemical Gateway
76
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
MRSL & Conformity Guidance
77
In 2015, ZDHC published the MRSL Version 1.1 (updated from 2014 to include Leather). The MRSL assists brands and organisations throughout value-chains and the broader industry to phase out or substitute hazardous substances potentially used and discharged into the environment during manufacturing and related processes. The MRSL is available in both English and Simplified Chinese via www.roadmaptozero.com We are working on our MRSL Conformance Guidance and will publish this later this year. It will describe how the value-chain can assess claims of conformance with the MRSL by chemical suppliers.
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
Research
78
Our research list is a list of prioritised chemical substances for which there are no safer alternatives in the market today. It lists priority chemical substances that require additional research or substitution. 2014 - Framework for the Prioritisation of Hazardous Chemicals. 2015 - Research List for substitution. 2016 – Development of Research Process / Aligning to MRSL Focus Area. Our goal is to phase out harmful substances by finding appropriate substitutions for key chemicals.
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
Wastewater Quality
79
Well-designed, properly functioning wastewater treatment plants, good process controls and effective chemicals management are key to minimising chemical, physical and biological pollutants discharged into the environment. In 2015, we published a literature review of current wastewater discharge quality standards applicable to the textile industry. Later this month, we plan to release new Wastewater Quality Guidelines to coordinate industry efforts, reduce duplication and clarify requirements throughout the global value-chain. Our Wastewater Guidelines present a single, unified wastewater discharge standard for the industry, that goes beyond regulatory compliance. Our goal is to minimise chemical pollutants discharged into the environment through good process controls.
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
Audit Protocol
80
This focus area was developed to ensure consistency in environmental auditing across the supply chain and sharing of audit findings. The Audit Protocol is supported by the ZDHC Chemical Management System (CMS) Guidance Manual, released in 2015. The CMS Guidance Manual provides guidelines for suppliers to develop, evolve and maintain their own chemical management system. The Audit Tool enables in-depth assessment of chemical management practices by suppliers. It sets the complete audit process for use by brands/retailers, facilities and their auditors when planning and carrying out a self-assessment or an environmental audit. A Memorandum of Understanding with the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) has been signed, with the aim of harmonising the ZDHC Audit Tool with relevant parts of the SAC HIGG Facilities Environment Module (FEM). Our goal is widespread adoption of the ZDHC Audit Tool.
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
Training
81
ZDHC Training is designed to support implementation of ZDHC standards throughout the value-chain. Training is aimed at all parts of the value-chain, including, brands, chemical suppliers, manufacturers and other intermediaries to adopt ambitious chemical management standards.
Later this month, we launch the ZDHC Academy – online portal for Chemical Management Training. Training will be conducted in-person and online, and in a range of local languages. Our six priority countries for training are: China, Bangladesh, India, Vietnam and Turkey & Italy.
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
Data & Disclosure
82
Data touches all parts of the work we do, from MRSL and conformance within formulations, to measuring improvement in water quality by elimination and substitution. Data drives decisions on what successes have been obtained and where work still needs to be done.
We have been developing a universal set of standards to organise the way key chemical data should be collected and shared for the benefit of all stakeholders. We are developing an online portal to drive conformance towards the MRSL. This is called the ZDHC Chemical Gateway. Let’s explore this further….
“You can’t manage what you can’t measure”
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
83
The ZDHC Chemical Gateway will include a comprehensive list of chemical products and an MRSL conformance assessment for each. It will map products against existing chemical accreditation and provide textile manufacturers with documentation to determine the level that a chemical product conforms with the ZDHC MRSL. From November, 30 suppliers will be invited to apply to volunteer to join and help us refine the platform. The Chemical Gateway will be publicly release early 2017.
The ZDHC Chemical Gateway The Chemical Gateway is an open, flexible data portal to assist brands, suppliers and chemical companies assess a chemical’s compliance against the MRSL. Without this type of portal, each textile manufacturer would need to assess every product from each of their chemical suppliers against the ZDHC MRSL to ensure conformance.
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
The 4th ZDHC – CNTAC Conference on Hazardous Chemical Control & Sustainable Manufacturing
84
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
Collaboration is KEY!
85
Join us, and work as part of an exciting collaboration, developing and implementing ZDHC products and tools. We have three contributor categories open to a range of organisations. 1. Signatory Brands – Open to brands and retailers. 2. Value-Chain Affiliates – Open to the textile/footwear industries and related chemical
industry and other solution providers. 3. Associates – Open to industry associations, NGOs and institutional partners such as
government, institutions or academia.
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
But don’t take our word for it….
86
“We joined ZDHC because we knew one brand cannot solve this issue alone. It’s exciting brands and chemical companies are coming together with NGOs to solve this issue and really make a difference. The power of the collaboration of ZDHC has proven itself over the past few years, and it’s now gaining momentum.” - Charles Dickinson, ZDHC Board Treasurer and Primark's Environmental Sustainability Controller
“In the past, we were working in silos within our brands; this is our effort to come together and work more effectively towards the elimination of hazardous chemicals. The ZDHC Programme is about collaborative implementation – speaking to the valuechain with one common voice.” Nathaniel Sponsler, – Sr. Manager Sustainable Chemistry and Policy, Gap Inc. and ZDHC Board Chairman
“It’s one thing to have a standard on a piece of paper; it’s another to have 20 different ways of implementing it. With ZDHC, we are working to demystify some of the complexity around chemical management.” - Anna Walker, Senior Director, Government Affairs and Public Policy, Levi Strauss & Co
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
Find out more…
87
Manufacturing Restricted Substances List V 1.1
Chemical Management System Guidance Manual
Chemical Guidance Sheets
Textile Industry Wastewater Discharge Quality Standards Literature Review
www.roadmaptozero.com
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
Discussion & Questions
© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved
89
To achieve our goal, we need your support.
We all have a role to play in moving the
industry towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals to create a better future for workers, consumers, and the
planet.
Join Us
www.roadmaptozero.com
Exclusive Conference Event: A Sustainable Model for the Dutch Calf Leather Supply Chain
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