The Travel & Leisure Magazine Sept/Oct 2009

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In this edition of The Travel & Leisure Magazine you have the chance of winning a fantastic holiday to the Azores worth 1,500. Also discover Sri Lanka, The Lake District, The Canary Islands, Toronto and Middle East cruises.For more information on The Travel & Leisure Magazine visit


<ul><li>1.SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2009 2 where sold SRI LANKA Small miracleLAKE DISTRICT In praise of poets cornerVOLCANIC WONDERS The Canary IslandsTAKING THE PLUNGE Learn to dive holidaysTORONTO Maple leaf metropolisARABIAN NIGHTS Middle East cruisesWIN# A 1,500 Azores holiday for two and a Bournemouth boutique hotel stay# Moccis slippers, soup and canal books, Flip video cameras and netbook sleevesPLUS: Hunting for bargains in Londons markets,Halloween hang-outs and Lisbons Golf Coast </li></ul><p>2. T R A V E L FROM THE EDITORSUNNY OUTLOOKWelcome to thelatest issue ofToronto TourismThe Travel &amp; Leisure Magazine. WithSunvil the children back at school the summer seems a dis- tant memory now, espe- cially as it didnt live up to GETTING TO KNOW The Canary Islands 6 the barbeque summer billing the Met Office hadESCAPE TO Toronto and Niagara Falls 15 originally predicted and then had to sheepishly retract. OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Sri Lanka20 But we can help you get back into the holi- day spirit with lots of ideas for where to go and what to do, whether you are looking for some- TRAVEL UPDATE Travel news 25 where to spend a day with the family, take aWIN one of five copies of the Cool Canals guide break or really push the boat out on a cruise or exotic, long-haul beach vacation. ALL ABOARD Middle East/Indian Ocean cruises + news 28 In this issue, we explore the Canaries, Spains sunny Atlantic islands which make an ideal get- away destination any time of year. We visit the IN YOUR FLIGHT BAG33 enchanting island of Sri Lanka, back in favourWIN one of two pairs of stylish adult Moccis moccasins with holidaymakers now that its civil war has WIN grab one of four Be.ez netbook sleeves we are giving away ended. Canadas cosmopolitan and easily- accessible city of Toronto comes under the microscope for short-break holidays, while IN YOUR SUITCASE34 Wordsworths Lake District is the option for those wanting a staycation the years buzz- LETS TRY Learn to Dive holidays36 word. Other topics cover golf around Portugals PACK YOUR CLUBS Lisbon Golf Coast + news43 capital, Lisbon, cruises in the Middle East and Indian Ocean, holidays where you can learn to dive, plus Londons street markets. ON YOUR DOORSTEP The Lake District49 As the nights draw in, we hope it will help give you a sunnier outlook. BEST FOR Hotel review 65Peter Ellegard READER OFFER half-price stays at Tankersley Manor4 The Travel &amp; Leisure Magazine September/October 2009 3. uises Celebrity Cr L E I S U R E COMPETITION 41 WIN a 1,500 holiday for two to the Azores Islands READER OFFER special offer on Sunvil holidays to the Azores OUT &amp; ABOUT Whats on outside London54 WIN one of 10 copies of Soup for All Occasions COMPETITIONS56Turespana WIN a two-night stay at Bournemouths Urban Beach hotel WIN one of two Canada-branded Flip Ultra video camerasEDITORIAL TEAMEditor Peter Ellegard LONDON REVIEW Londons markets + London news58 Writers Peter Ellegard, Keeley Gordon, JulieStevens, Sara Macefield, Dave Richardson,Stephanie Sparrow and Adam Coulter COMING NEXT Whats in store in the next issue 68 Design Nick BlaxillAdvertising Team Jeannette Cumbers, BeverleySennett &amp; Elaine SmithAdmin/Accounts Wendy BarfootFREE BOOKS for newsubscribers see page 68 READERS Production Keeley Gordon, Loretta PrincePublisher Terry StaffordDigital Publisher Peter LewseyThe next issue of LETTERSPublished bi-monthly byTravel &amp; Leisure Magazines LtdThe Travel &amp; Leisure Magazine First Floor, 103 Cranbrook Road,Ilford, Essex, IG1 4PUwill be out in November 2009.We want to hear from you.Tel: 020 8477 1529 Fax: 020 8514 4536 Let us have your Email: info@tlmags.comPrinted by Wyndeham Heron Subscribe now and getthoughts on Travel &amp; Leisure Magazines Limited 2009 a FREE travel book. The Travel &amp;MAY/JUNE 20092 where soldThe publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or Leisureomissions. MagazinesTimeless wonderWhilst every care is taken, all material submitted to TravelTake out a subscriptionREYKJAVIKCool and affordab ROCK STAR le CALYPSOCRUISING&amp; Leisure Magazines Limited is done so at its ownersnew look, or The Isle of Wight Call 020 8477 1529 TRAVELLING IN STYLEMagical railway TEE TIME INSCOTLAND Caribbeanisland hoppingrisk and neither Travel &amp; Leisure Magazines Limited norjourneysPerfect days in its agents can accept any liability for loss or damage.6 issues just 6, inc postage.on any topic.NEWFOUNDLANDthe home of golfNatures playgrou nd Travel &amp; Leisure Magazines Limited is a completely inde-WINThe best letter# #A weeks holiday 1,500 of Pride for twoCanadas Newfoundla worth 4,000 to PLUS: Steam HeritageRoyal Albert Hallndof Britain hotelGuide 2009 vouchers tours and more copies,pendent company and can hold no responsibility for theactions of outside agents. No part of this magazine may beOnline edition subscriptionwill win a reproduced without prior written consent.Subscribe to the online edition and saveAll private advertisers are totally responsible for their own STAR PRIZE.wording within their advertisement, and Travel &amp; Leisureup to 58%. Enjoy six issues for 6, or 12Email us atMagazines Limited can therefore take no responsibility asissues for 24. to their content. Please seek legal advice and verify all the details of your purchase in writing beforeproceeding.Front cover photo: Peter Ellegard September/October 2009The Travel &amp; Leisure Magazine5 4. Islands at the end 6 The Travel &amp; Leisure Magazine September/October 2009 5. getting to KNOW CANARY ISLANDS of the WORLDI Taking in the spectacular viewat Senderismo, La Palma Main pciture:Turespana The islands lie off the coast of NorthMillions flock to the Canary Islands every year for winter-sunAfrica with Lanzarote, the most easterly,holidays, yet as Dave Richardson reveals, there is far more tobeing only 60 miles from Morocco. Over200 miles to the west is little-visited Elthese volcanic marvels than mass tourism resortsHierro, once considered the end of theknown world. Columbus called in at some Ithought of the diary of parish Lanzarote, one of the seven Canary Islands.of the islands on his way to discover the newpriest Lorenzo Curbelo as I droveVolcanoes are one of many reasons whyworld in 1492, and by 1496 they wereto Timanfaya National Park inpeople visit the Canaries, and the Teneguiaclaimed by the Spanish crown. The originalLanzarote. An enormous moun-volcano in La Palma last erupted as recently inhabitants, the Guanches, were a primitive,tain emerged from the ground withas 1971. But the main draw for British peo-fair-skinned people who have left littleflames coming from its summit, he ple, who make over three million visits atrace, apart from mummies in museums. wrote. It continued burning for 19 days. year, is the mild climate. That has led toWith beaches, dramatic landscapes and Some days later, a new abyss developed andmass tourism development in Tenerife, Gran lots to see and do, the Canaries dont deserve an avalanche of lava rushed down over Canaria and, to a lesser extent, Lanzarote their sometimes tacky image. Avoid half a Timanfaya. All the western beaches andand Fuerteventura. But there are still plentydozen of the biggest resorts and youll start shores were covered with an incredibleof charming places away from the crowds. to discover what makes them so distinctive. number of dead fish of all species some The average temperature hovers around with shapes which islanders had never 22C year-round, making the Canaries attrac- Tenerife known before.tive for a winter break only four hours flyingWhen I visited the Casa del Vino, a wineThat volcanic eruption must have seemedtime from the UK. But sunshine isnt guaran- museum and restaurant in a dramatic like the end of the world back in 1730, espe- teed, and constant Atlantic winds mean win-clifftop setting near the town of El Sauzal, cially to farmers and fishermen living 800ter days can be wet and a little chilly. In sum- it was full of locals rather than tourists. Its miles from their motherland in Spain. The mer, however, the plus side is that you dontone of the top restaurants in Tenerife, serv- eruptions continued for six years and creat-get the baking high temperatures you might ing delicacies such as stewed rabbit accom- ed many of the 300-plus volcanic cones in experience in the Mediterranean. panied by wines from the nearby hillsides.September/October 2009The Travel &amp; Leisure Magazine 7 6. Food and wine Youll be lucky to find Canaries wine in Britain, whereas 400 years ago plenty was imported especially sweet Malvasia. Nowadays the limited production is consumed locally, but wine museums in Tenerife and Lanzarote focus on its importance.White wines are the more refined, and the islands also produce rum. Cuisine is mainly fish based but also includes stews made from pork, chicken or rabbit. Most typical dishes are served with salted new potatoes boiled in their skins, and accompanied by red or green mojo sauce made with paprika or coriander. Gofio is a cornmeal used toTurespana thicken soups and stews. Spanish and international cuisines areI Cafe culture in Las Palmas widely available, especially in resorts. Tenerifes government has introduced agastronomy plan not just for visitors but to The Canariesplenty to do rather than laze all day on abeach. Drive above the clouds to Mountkeep alive traditions for its own people, who Teide and ride a cable car to the top, thenstart learning at school rather than getting dont deservetake the steep road down to Garachico, a lit-stuck into turkey twizzlers.tle port with 18th century buildings and The largest and most popular of the Canary their sometimes great fish restaurants.Islands is only about 70 miles from north tosouth, yet it has two distinctive climates cour-tacky imageGran Canariatesy of Mount Teide which, at 12,195ft, is theThis is probably the best choice for lovers ofhighest peak on Spanish soil. The high vol- beach resorts, as the south has great expans-canic crater surrounding the mountain traps es of golden sand including the vast dunes ofthe clouds, giving the north a mild but dampMaspalomas. But beaches inevitably attractclimate with lush vegetation, as in the Orotava big development, and the few miles runningvalley with its banana plantations. from San Agustin to Playa del Ingles and In the north are the elegant resort of Maspalomas are highly urbanised.Puerto de la Cruz (no beach but an attractive Raucous nightlife makes Playa del Ingleslido) and the modern capital, Santa Cruz, especially popular with young people andwhich stages a chaotic and colourful carni- gays. If you are neither and not broad mindedval claimed to be the largest in the worldthen choose another area the dunes areafter Rio (February 12-21 next year). The described as very cruisey by one website,former capital of La Laguna is nearby, with and were not talking about ships. Quietera church dating from 1502 and some lovely resorts in the south include Puerto Rico and the18th century mansions and convent.more-recently developed Puerto de Mogan. A motorway takes you from Puerto de la Gran Canaria has a similar but less-Cruz or Santa Cruz to the south in less thanmarked north/south climatic split to Tenerife,an hour, passing Tenerife South airport,but its worth visiting the north if only to seewhich is used by all flights from the UK. Las Palmas; the largest city and port in theThe south is dry, absolutely barren and Canaries, it is home to about 375,000 people.much hotter than the north, with most massIts good for shopping, and most of the histo-tourism concentrated in the big resorts ofry is in the Barrio Vegueta district, which hasPlaya de las Americas and Los Cristianos. a 16th century cathedral, the Canary IslandsMore up-market resorts include Adeje andMuseum and Columbus Museum.Los Gigantes, and throughout the south areThe mountainous interior is traversed byfive-star hotels, often with spas and some- one main route, which is well worth takingtimes golf courses discover a variety of landscapes that has Tenerife is the most diverse island but itsgiven Gran Canaria the moniker continentbeaches are a disappointment, being mainlyin miniature. Deep ravines, fertile valleys,small and of dark volcanic sand. The golden artificial lakes and the Bandama crater areTurespanabeach at Teresitas, near Santa Cruz, uses the highlights, with pretty villages such as I Timanfaya National Park on Lanzarotesand shipped in from the Sahara, but theresTafira and Tejada. You can take an organised8 The Travel &amp; Leisure Magazine September/October 2009 7. 4x4 trip to go off-road, or a walking holidaystaying at small, rural hotels a world awayfrom the coast. LanzaroteDespite reading what the priest had to sayabout the 1730 eruption, nothing preparedme for the bleakly-impressive TimanfayaNational Park, or Fire Mountain. The well-worn lunar landscape clich is actually agood way of describing the devastationwrought by the volcano, as much of theisland is covered by black lava which isused for buildings and walls and contrastspleasantly with whitewashed houses andblue sky. Timanfaya is not an experience you canenjoy in solitude, however, as its Lanzarotesleading attraction. You drive up a mountainto a visitor centre and restaurant where meatsare grilled over the intense heat still comingTurespanaI Camel riding on Lanzarotes Fire Mountain up from the earth, and where water pouredinto a hole shoots up as a plume of scaldingsteam just seconds later. The temperature justbelow the surface is 350C more than I Puerto Mogan, Gran Canariaenough to do your sausages nicely. But to view the most impressive volcanoyou have to pile into a bus with dozens ofothers, and listen to a recorded commentarywhile weird music such as the soundtrackto 2001: A Space Odyssey is played.Although its more atmospheric to trek partof the way up on a camel, the views aremore impressive on the bus tour. Dont think Lanzarote is a wasteland, asthere is some greenery in the north and thevolcanic grit is very fertile; it is used to growvines and vegetables around villages of theinterior such as Yaiza and Teguise. Plants areprotected from the prevailing winds by littlesemi-circular walls made from lava, ofcourse. Lava flows also created the Jameosde Agua caves, another major attraction. Lanzarote also has golden sandy beaches,the main resorts being Puerto del Carmen,TurespanaPlaya Blanca and Costa Teguise. There areno huge tourist complexes or high-rises Activitiescomparable with Tenerife or Gran Canaria,but development is marching steadilySea sports are popular, Gran Canaria and Fuerteventura being famous for windsurfing towards the virgin beaches of Papagayo,with world championships held in both islands. Fuerteventura is the best choice for near Playa Blanca on the southern tip. Adiving, from Barlovento and Sotavento, with up to 400 species of fish on the coastalcourt ruled last year that 22 of the islandsshelf.major hotels had been built i...</p>


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