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In central Chile, between the Andes Mountains and the Pacific Ocean, extends the Colchagua Valley, an area where the best Chilean wineries are located. It’s a paradise for those seeking a heady experience around the cultivation of the grape BY RODRIGO BARRÍA REYES

Chiles wine paradise

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In central Chile, between the Andes Mountains and the Pacific Ocean, extends the Colchagua Valley, an area where the best Chilean wineries are located.

It’s a paradise for those seeking a heady experience around the cultivation of the grape

BY RODRIGO BARRÍA REYES

Page 2: Chiles wine paradise

chile

WORKERS PICKING GRAPES

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Page 3: Chiles wine paradise

64 Sawubona May 2015

he Colchagua Valley is 130km from Santiago, a terroir that extends from the foothills of the majestic Andes Mountains ���������� ���������������/�$��������The area is crossed by the waters of the Tinguiririca River, along whose course lie small, bucolic towns such as San Fernando, ����8 �*��8��� ��������������

Colchagua (the once southern boundary of the mighty Inca empire) and wine pairing have a long-standing reputation, as the Spanish conquerors who settled in the

area during the 16th������ ���� �� ������������ ������������$ ����������������������� ������[�������������� ������������������ ������ �������������������������

During the 19th century, the Colchagua Valley became the residence ��������������� ����������������������� ���+��������������made their fortune in the nitrate business in northern Chile and

��� �$������ ����������������vine plants, most of which came � ���7 �������������������������$���������������������������aristocratic castles, but also with Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, +� �������+�������� ��������exporting wine business began timidly in the early 20th century and turned the area into one of the most prestigious wine regions, not only in 8������������������� ����%���������2005, Colchagua Valley was named as the Best Wine Region of the World by Wine Enthusiast�

It’s January when I arrive, summer in Chile, and the sky over 8������������ ������������������� �� �&�������¨z©8���� ������seasons are marked clearly during the year, with cool and rainy winters, �������������� � ����������� ���The valley’s surrounded by mountain ranges to the north and south and the winds coming down from the Andes face those arriving from the sea, which makes for a formidable ���������

Central to Colchagua Valley is Santa Cruz – a small town of 30 000 inhabitants which has developed ���$�������� �������� ������������ ��������� ����������������������������8 �*������$�����building of 116 rooms reminiscent of the old houses of the Chilean ����� ����������� ��� �������������the town square and, depending on what you’re after, travellers can enjoy ���� ����������� �����$�����museum which exhibits indigenous artifacts, with a special section

dedicated to the memorable rescue in 2010 of 33 miners from the San '��������

If, like me, you’re a lover of museums, then Museum of Crafts in Lolol village and the amazing Museo Del Automovil, with over 100 car models in the Viña Santa Cruz (both about a 20-minute � ���� ������������6�������� ��������������������8 �*����� ��is surprising not only because of the wide choice of winery tours, restaurant and wine sales, but also because there exists a replica of �8�������������������������������������������� ���������� ���along with a collection of more than 50 meteorites, telescopes allow � ����� ������0��� ��������������������������

%�$����ª�������������������������� �����������������������area (15 minutes from Santa Cruz) and on the slopes of a ������������$������� ���� ��������������������� ������winery Clos Apalta, a building 25m underground with six

MONTES, COLCHAGUA VALLEY

colchagua valley

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66 Sawubona May 2015

levels. The winery was built specially for the production of the famous Clos Apalta, Lapostolle’s ������������������������most awarded at international level (elected the No 1 Wine in the World by Wine Spectator in 2008). The place is akin to ���� �������� ���� ��������� ��=���� �������������������a rocky hill with French oak barrels. Down in the shadows is the personal cellar of one of the owners of the place, Alexandra Marnier ������������ ���� �������� �������0�� ��+ �� ��� ��� ����the famous Grand Marnier liqueur.

A few metres beyond the hold, another little treasure is located. It’s Lapostolle Residence, a boutique hotel made up of four houses. This unique site, which has been named several times as the best ����<�����������8������������������������ ������������ ������ �������!�������������$ ��������� ��������� ������������������� �<�������������������������������������;__�������� ��������� ��������������������������������������� �����Lapostolle wines.

����� ����������������� ��������������8�������������������� ���������"� ����������������� ������������ ���� �������been established. One of the most recent, 6km from Santa Cruz, is ����X������������ ����������������� �����������������������mixes urban convenience with rural relaxation.

���������������������������������z«¬3��������������� �� �/ �������7��� ���Z *� *����������� ���������� �����remodelled into what’s now a boutique hotel with just 13 rooms,

�����������������"� �����������8����������� ������X������������������� ��0������� �����&���$����������������������� ������������������������� �� ����������$ ��� ��������������� ���������������������������!����� ����������������������������� ���� �� �������� �������������������

������� ����������� ��� ���� �����������������������������!������%������������ ��������������� ��� ������� ��������+���¦ ������ ���������������������¦��*����������������������������������X�<������������ ��%���������������$�����������������8��������������

'�����$���������� ������� ���X����������������������������������������� �[�����8��8����������� ��������������� ��������� ����������� ����������������������������������������������������� ��������������������� ��������\¦���������������������������������&�������������������&���� ���D��������$��������������������� ��̂ �����7 �������������� ��� �������������

7�����������������������������������8������������� �$ ��������������������������0�� ���������� �������������8�������The hallmark of this vineyard has to do with its equestrian spirit. As you partake in the delectable cuisine, you’ll have �������������������������$����=�����������$�������8��

DOWN IN THE SHADOWS IS THE PERSONAL CELLAR OF ONE OF THE OWNERS OF THE PLACE, ALEXANDRA MARNIER LAPOSTOLLE,

GREAT-GRANDDAUGHTER OF ALEXANDRE MARNIER, CREATOR OF THE FAMOUS GRAND MARNIER LIQUEUR.

LAPOSTOLLE RESIDENCE BOUTIQUE HOTEL

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INVEST IN PEOPLE COMMITTED TO GROWTH.

AR

LIE

BR

AVO

#39

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We’re not landlords. We’re people.

While we strive to be the best, not necessarily the biggest, we understand that growth enables our business. So we’re always alert for new opportunities in our highly competitive

world, yet never lose focus on enhancing the value of our portfolio and creating new world-class developments.We’ve invested in people who share our vision and our

commitment. Shouldn’t you invest in them too?

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68 Sawubona May 2015

Silva, one of the best polo teams in the country. If you’re lucky, you can catch them in action.

If you’re up to a cooking class and learning from the best, then the Food & Wine Studio is worth a visit. Pilar Rodríguez is a chef trained in the famous Cordon Bleu culinary programme in Paris and, for a decade, has been charged with visitors coming to her little gourmet haunt within the Viña Viu Manet. The simple white furniture becomes your learning ground for a few hours as you discover some of the signature dishes of Chilean cuisine. “The wine is always the main protagonist,” Pilar remarks.

Another vineyard not to be missed is Montes, one of the most prestigious in the country. Its large building, designed using Feng Shui principles, gives it an air of mystique and relaxation. The greatest impact is on the lowest level, where hundreds of barrels rest under the watchful eyes of angels (the symbol representing the vineyard on their bottles) and Gregorian chants that continue 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. Entering the cellar feels both overwhelming and mystical. I feel more as if I’m inside a church than in a wine cellar. I taste the M and Folly, probably two of the best red wines made in Chile.

'�����������������$�����building is the Bistró Alfredo, where you can eat lamb, pasta or king crab while relishing the unforgettable view of the valley. For those who want something more relaxed, the vineyard �"� ���������������������������gardens: an experience accompanied by a good wine, cheese and baguette.

GETTING THEREIn addition to travelling by road from Santiago, another attractive way to get there is on the Colchagua Valley Train. It departs from the Central Station in Santiago designed by the famous Gustav Eiffel. On board there’s Chilean cuisine, folk music and wine-tasting. The train travels once a month.

There are also more daring options to get to Colchagua. One is offered by the company

Santiago FBO, an air charter service which allows wine-lovers to fly above the extensive plantations. The offer includes the option of landing in one of the vineyards, lunch on the property and then a continuation of the flight. Rates start at R24 372 using the AW Augusta 119 Koala seven-seater.

ESSENTIAL INFOCava Colchagua Hotel, Barreales s/n, Santa Cruz (+56-9 8963 9862;

www.cavacolchagua.cl)Santiago FBO (+56-2 2674 4000; www.santiagofbo.cl)Restaurant & Polo Viña Casa Silva, Hijuelas norte s/n (+56-9 6847 5786; www.casasilva.cl)Viña Lapostolle & Residence, Ruta I-50, Camino San Fernando a Pichilemu. Km 36, Cunaquito, Santa Cruz (+56-72 295 3350; www.lapostolle.com)Noi Blend Hotel, Hijuela La Viña s/n, Palmilla (+56-2 2432 6800;

www.noihotels.com)Colchagua Camp, El Arrayán s/n, Palmilla (+56-9 9812 0068; www.colchaguacamp.cl)Colchagua Valley Train (www.trencentral.cl)Pilar Rodríguez Studio (+56-9 6899 0441; www.pilarrodriguez.cl)Santa Cruz Plaza Hotel, Plaza de Armas 286, Santa Cruz (+56-72 220 9600; www.hotelsantacruzplaza.cl)Viña Montes & Bistró Alfredo, Parcela 15, Millahue de

Apalta, Santa Cruz (+56-2 2248 4805; www.monteswines.com)Colchagua Museum (www.museodecolchagua.cl)Hacienda Los Lingues, Panamericana Sur, Km 124 (+56-72 297 7080; www.loslingues.com)

TOURS & OUTDOORSNatural Wine Tours (+56-9 8790 5666; www.naturalwinetours.cl)

PILAR RODRÍGUEZ STUDIO

VIÑA MONTES CELLAR