1. 1. When The Standards Dont Apply:
   Sumatra
   
2. 2. Indonesia
   
3. 3.
4. 4. Production Data
   Indonesia 2007 425,000 tons coffee
   Robusta 360,000 tons
   120,000 tons consumed domestically
   240,000 tons exported
   Arabica 65,000 tons
   All exported
   55,000 tons ( 85%) North Sumatran Provinces
   Aceh 30,000 tons, N/Sumatra 25,000 tons
   Sumatran Coffee
   
5. 5. Aceh Province
   +
   North Sumatra Province
   =
   Sumatran Arabica
   
6. 6. Production System
   Small holder production - to 2 ha farms
   600kg /Ha
   100,000 coffee farming families
   Harvest, pulp, ferment, wash,skin dry, sell at farm gate.
   Market chains to export are unregulated
   
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16. 16. Exporting
    All through Medan(Port of Belawan)
    6 to 8 large exporters over 1000 tons /year.
    Largest exporter over 6000 tons per year
    Up to 20 smaller exporters
    Must meet Indonesian Export Standards
    90% Arabicaexported as Grade 1
    Wellbelow SCAA standards.
    Uniqueness is Sumatrans key Virtue
    Inconsistency is its major Vice.
    
17. 17. North Sumatran Descriptions
    Regions:
    Lintong,Sidikalang,Mandheling ( N/Sumatra)
    Takengon, Laut Tawar(Aceh)
    Ethnic groups:
    Batak, Gayo
    Sometimes reflect true orgins.
    
18. 18. Sumatran Descriptions
    -A heavy body coffee, without any acidity with full spicy flavor and a wonderful bouquet
    -Considered one of the world's finest coffees, undoubtedly the most full-bodied coffee available. Low in acid, but rich and smooth.
    -Very full body, very concentrated flavor. Sweet, slightly earthy, herbal nuances with a gutsy richness.
    -Sumatra coffee features a full body with virtually no acidity
    -Bold and intense, with a full body and earthly aroma be prepared for unusually concentrated spicy and herbal notes
    -Ultra heavy body,earthy spice,and very low acidity. Flavor-wise, the most easily distinguishable of the world's great coffees.
    -A uniquely heavy-bodied coffee with low acidity and pleasant nutty aroma. This coffee possesses a distinctive, syrupy, exotic flavor. Truly Unusual.
    
19. 19. Sumatran Descriptions (continued)
    -This coffee has the reputation of being the most full bodied coffee in the world. It is relatively low in acidity but the flavor, like the body, is rich, smooth and full
    -Full bodied, with a rich dark chocolate bottom. This coffee has low acidity and a pleasant smokey finish
    -Sumatran Mandheling is among the world's finest coffees displaying rich flavor, extraordinary full body and distinctively vibrant, low-key acidity.
    - In this Sumatra Mandheling DP the flavors are richly low-toned, chocolate, syrupy-carmelly body, malty, penetrating aroma and slightly earthy (almost mossy) with pronounced herbal nuances.
    - Sumatra green coffee has a beautiful deep blue-green color with the appearance of jade. Deep, full flavored, full-bodied with chocolate, spice, clean earth, and caramel/butterscotch notes. Slight notes of smoke and tobacco, and big, clean, lingering finish with chocolate and a hint of butterscotch.
    
20. 20. Sumatran Character
    Complex interaction between:
    Growing environment
    Farm management
    Coffee variety
    Processing chain.
    Focus on Varieties and Processing .
    
21. 21. Aceh Variety Assessment
    Aceh recent history
    Conflict simmering for 100 years.
    Increased in 1996. Early 2000s peak.
    GAM Free Aceh Movement.
    5000 houses destroyed
    Coffee farmers caught in the middle.
    Tsunami
    180,000 people killed in coastal areas.
    Brought the conflict to an end in 2006 due to international focus on Aceh.
    Peace brought opportunity to rehaband replant coffee.
    
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26. 26. UNDP/APED funded Assessment
    Partners:
    ICCRI Indonesian Coffee and Cocoa Research Institute Jember,East Java
    Gayo Research Station Pondok Gajah in Aceh coffee area.
    Applied Research limited funding.
    
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29. 29. Trial Processing: 2 Methods
    Aceh has unique processing system.
    Full-Washed processing. Full-Washed is a well recognised standard method which would give clean acidic cup and is generally quite repeatable.
    WetHulledprocessing:Should give the Sumatran character of enhanced body and lower acidity .
    Understanding Wet-hulling
    
30. 30. What is Wet Hulling?
    Wet hulling = Giling Basah
    Hulling normally describes the process of removing dry parchment from the coffee bean.
    Wet hulling uses modified Dry Hullers
    Unique in the world. Northern Sumatra and Sulawesi.
    
31. 31. WhyWet Hulling?
    Faster drying in wet climates.
    12 day drying process reduced to 3 or 4 days.
    Notintended to change quality.
    
32. 32. Pumpkin Coffee / Kopi Labu
    
33. 33. Reviewof Full-WashedWetHulled Steps
    Thecoffee fruit or cherry itself has four distinctlayers around the bean.
    1. The fleshy, grape-like outer red skin (exocarp or epicarp),
    2. The slimy pulp or mucilage (mesocarp),
    3. The parchment (endocarp)
    4. The silver skin.(integument)
    Bean (Endosperm)
    Embryo
    Sumatran CoffeeProcess
    good fresh ripe cherry,
    pulped promptly, fermented for a maximum of 2 days
    washed well and skin dried.
    All Sumatran wet parchment should be clean and well washed.
    
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38. 38. Wet Hulling
    Parchment dried no longer turgid flexible.
    Operators play a key role.
    Hullers are modified dry hullers.
    Parchment can be hulled at different moisture levels. different results.
    If too wet or too dry Goats Hoof or kuku kambing
    Wet hulled coffee must be dried quickly to stop mould.
    
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50. 50. Wet Hulling Experiences
    All very interesting, but does it make a difference? - Toraja, Sulawesi in 1999.
    Toraja case study:
    Sulawesi AA WetProcess Toarco Toarco Jaya
    Sulawesi Toraja Sapan-Minaga - CBI
    
51. 51. Wet-Hulling Conclusions
    At its simplest is a fast drying process that enhances body and reduces acidity.
    This is wherethe Sumatran story only begins.
    Alwaysa wide variation in individual farmer batches, but a wider range in Sumatrans
    1 in 20 coffee.
    Where does it come from?
    Why is it so illusive?
    
52. 52. Aceh Variety Trial
    Aceh- more than 10 varieties in commercial production.
    Dutch project 1980-92 brought over 25varieties to Gayo Research Centre.
    ICCRIbrought in more varieties.
    Farmers hedge their bets and often have 6 to 8 varieties on their farm.
    
53. 53. Aceh Coffee Variety Groups
    4 majorgenetic groups of coffee in Aceh.
    Typicaselections (pure old Arabica) Bergendal,Sidikalang, Rambung,BelawanPusumah
    Hybrido de Timor (HdT) Tim Tim natural crossTypicaxRobusta.
    Catimor Varieties.- AtengJeluk,KartikaAndung Sari
    S-795 / S-288. linie S from India, Arabicax Liberica. Kent then back cross S-288 to S-795.
    
54. 54. Variety Sampling Process
    Evaluated 9 promising Arabica coffee varieties which were well established and showed promise in Aceh.
    3 varieties were evaluated at 3 altitudes, as suitable populations of between 100 and 300 trees were found.
    6 varieties were evaluated from single sites.
    15 sample plots in total.
    Difficult to find large plots of a few hundred trees of the same variety.
    
55. 55. Variety Sampling Process
    3 cherry harvests from the same plot of coffee trees (100 to 300 trees identified as a specific variety) over 2 months.
    Each harvest replication from each sample plot was processed two ways (Full-washed and Wet-hulled)
    90 samples comprising 30 x 3 sets(reps)samples ( about 15kg each) of dried green bean were taken from Aceh to ICCRI in Jember, East Java for assessment.
    
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58. 58. 9 Varieties for Assessment
    Ateng Jeluk ( locally selected Catimor), 3 locations(1520m, 1300m, 900m)
    Tim Tim (Hybrido de Timor)3 locations (1520m, 1350m, 1240m)
    Bor Bor (a local selection ofHybrido de Timor), 3 locations, (1520m, 900m,1300m)
    S-795, (1350m)
    S-288, (1,240m)
    BP- 524 ( ICCRI selected Catimor) ( 1,300m)
    P-88 (Catimorfrom Thailand) (1,400m)
    C-50 (Catimorfrom Australia) ( 1,400m)
    Bergendal(local Typica) (1,480m)
    
59. 59. Ateng Jeluk
    
60. 60. Tim Tim / HdT
    
61. 61. Bor Bor
    
62. 62. S-795
    
63. 63. S-288
    
64. 64. BP-524
    
65. 65. P-88
    
66. 66. C-50
    
67. 67. Bergendal / Typica
    
68. 68. Pulping and Fermenting
    
69. 69. Drying
    
70. 70. Variety Assessment Process
    The ICCRI cupping team evaluated and scored each of the 90 samples.
    They then compared each set of 3 replications from each sample plot (by each process)
    Once individually tested, the 3 replicationsfor each treatment were combined to make 30 Composite samples for further testing.
    
71. 71. ICCRI Cupped Each Samples
    
72. 72. ICCRI Cupping TeamDr Surip Mawardi, Mr Yusianto, Ms Sulistyawati
    
73. 73. Variety Assessment Process
    20 setscomposite sample prepared of (30 samples sets) with blind coding.
    Tested twice by the ICCRI cupping team.
    Assessment by ICCRI formed the basis for the recommendations to the Government of Aceh and Indonesia.
    
74. 74. Variety Assessment Process
    Twocupping forms used based on a SCAA scoring format.
    1 form compared each pair of samples processed two ways.
    1form compared the 15 samples processed the same way to determine varietal difference .
    6 International and 6 Domestic companiesparticipated.
    Finally, 27 separate cup evaluations were received.
    Results:numerical scores and cupping notesand comments.
    ICCRI also assessed bean size, defect and abnormality levels.
    Cupping results were considered along with the field data(growth, productivity, disease levels and farmer preferences.)
    
75. 75. Main Findings
    1. 2 x Hdt( Tim Tim and Bor Bor) plus Catimor were best options for Aceh.
    2. P-88 wasequally good.Recommended for planting.
    3.BP 542,high yielding Catimor had very poor cup.Astringent / Bitter. A good example of why so many people hate catimors!!!
    4.Typica rated well as Full-washed but lower as wet- hulled.
    
76. 76. Main Findings (continued)
    5.S-795 and S-288 cupped well as Full-washed and wet hulled but not Aceh. Torajan!! Appears to have a unique variety linked flavour profile.
    6. Ateng Jelukcupped well, particularly as wet-hulled. However not rust resistant.
    7.C-50 cuppedwell but is not rust resistant.
    
77. 77. Main Findings (continued)
    1.Wet-hulling gave enhanced body and reduce acidity.
    2.Wet-hulling gave more variable results than Full-washed within replicates.
    3.Wet-Hulling was preferredfor many varieties.
    4. Longer drying times (not planned) gave more acidity in both Wet-hulled and Full-washed.
    5. Catimors and HdT appearto benefit from Wet-Hulling.
    
78. 78. Bor Bor
    Introduced by Dutch Project to 1 farmer in 1982.4 seedlings in a package of 19 varieties.
    Originof 19thvariety unknown.
    Called Bor Bor by farmer lots of fruit
    Dutch Projectabruptly stopped in 1992.
    ICCRI believe it might be a selection of Tim Tim from their seed garden of selected Tim Tim.
    
79. 79. Mr Maisir with Original Bor Bor
    
80. 80. Tim Tim/ HdT
    Many introductions starting in 1980
    Dept of Estate Crops:1980 direct from East Timor.
    Dutch Project: 1984 and 1989 - direct from East Timor
    ICCRI introduced better selections in early late 1990s.Less variable.
    
81. 81. P-88
    AColumbian Catimor
    Sent to Kenyan Research Station -1975
    Sent from Kenya to Thai research station -1984
    Sent from Thailand to Aceh -1988.
    Planted by Dutch project but never released to farmers.
    1 single Plot of this in Aceh.
    
82. 82. Bergendal/ Typica
    Very susceptible to leaf rust.
    Small holder yields of rust resistant varieties.
    Estimated only 5% of coffee in Aceh.
    Cupped no better than HdT or best Catimors
    
83. 83. BP-542
    Not released no common name.
    Selected by ICCRI from Costa Rica Catimor stock.
    High yielding and good rust resistance.
    Very poor cup astringent, bitter
    Typical of why many cuppers hate Catimor.
    
84. 84. BP-542
    
85. 85. Ateng Jeluk
    Mistakenly brought toAceh in 1980.
    1 seedling in 100 HdT seeds given to a farmer.
    Farmer nurtured this seedling and planted awhole seed garden from this tree.
    Spread like wild fire through Aceh.
    The first Catimor.
    Probably and early CIFC being trial in East Timor in the 1960s.
    
86. 86. Ateng Jeluk (continued)
    Now out of favor by farmers as
    Rust resistance has broken down .
    Beans become smaller as tree ages.
    Trees susceptibleto overbearing stress.
    
87. 87. Ateng - Jeluk
    
88. 88. S-795
    Only 1 planting in Aceh
    Sweetsugar and baggy flavour.
    Nottypical Acehflavour profile.
    Blind cupping identified this as Torajan.
    Old selections had 10% elephant ear
    ICCRI selection in Aceh had normal abnormality levels.
    
89. 89. North Sumatra
    New variety Sigarar Utang (repay the debt) has appeared!!
    Source unknown probably a Catimor.
    ICCRI has evaluated and cup tested it.
    Very similar in cup and physical appearance toP-88.
    Reports of it now becoming affected by Coffee Rust.
    It may go the same way as Ateng Jeluk!!
    
90. 90. Wet Hulling In search of the 1 in 20
    Wet hulling fast processing, fast drying, enhanced body and lower acidity.
    Does not explain the range of flavour profiles in Sumatrans.
    Wethulling opens a Pandoras box of potential flavour precursors.
    Bean Germination
    Mould
    Bean Damage
    Bean Heating
    
91. 91. Bean Germination and Nutrient Mobilization
    Coffee is a recalcitrant seed no dormancy before germination.
    Seeds in coffee fruit are inhibited by some unknown mechanism(s).
    4 main coatings around coffee seed hold the key to inhibition. - unclear
    Skin (Exocarp)
    Pulp (Mesocarp
    Parchment (Endocarp)
    Silver skin (Integument)
    
92. 92. Coffee Bean (from Selmar and Bytof)
    
93. 93. Bean Germination and Nutrient Mobilization (continued)
    Selmar and Bytof (2000 to 2008) have demonstrated that full-washing(removing 2 layers) initiates germination and influences cup flavour.
    Wet-hulling removes all 4 layers.
    Standard nursery practice remove parchmentto halve germination time.
    Germinationcauses the mobilization and metabolizing ofsugars, fats, proteins.
    Many of these are likely to be flavour precursors.
    
94. 94. Mould, Fungi, Yeasts
    Normally try to stop mould in coffee processing.
    Dr Taniwaki and her Brazilian colleagues have infected coffee beans with specific moulds.
    Stinker , woody,rancid,mouldy,rioy
    Also Caramel, Chocolateand Floral
    Descriptors like Earthy,Forest floor, Herbal, Spice are probably Mould.
    
95. 95. Mould, Fungi, Yeasts
    Anecdotes from Coffee Factory Managers cleaning up moulded coffee.
    Sometimes produces great coffee.
    Enough evidence that mould plays a large part in Sumatran flavours
    Perhaps we can suppress the bad moulds and inoculate with good moulds
    Wine wild yeasts are suppressed and cultured yeasts are introduced.
    
96. 96. Wet Hulling Physical Damage
    Very physical process.Beans are brutally massaged!!
    Macro level:damage is clear Kuku Kambing
    Micro-level:large amounts of cellular damage. Breakdown and rupturing of cell compartments.
    Living plant tissue response to damage isoften production of Phenolic compounds.
    Phenolic compounds are well know flavour precursors.
    
97. 97. Heating During Hulling
    Wet-hulling is a high energy process.
    Friction createsheat.The wetter the coffee the more friction.
    Heating has 2 likely effects
    Hot coffee moulds very quickly.
    Heating will have a profound effect on the metabolic activity of living coffee seed that has just had germination inhibitors removed.
    Coffee comes out of hullers at 30 degrees or over 60 degrees ( too hot to hold!!)
    
98. 98. Wet Hulling Summary
    Fast, clean, controlled wet-hulling and rapid drying enhances Body and reduces Acidity.
    The further we move away from this controlled situation the more wild Sumatran flavours appear.
    Understanding these processes will allow the industry to consistently produce batches of Mild Sumatrans through to Wild Earthy, Spicy Forest floor Sumatrans
    
99. 99. When is a Defect not a Defect?
    Sumatran Coffee should meet SCAA Physical Defect standards.
    Exception Kuku Kambing
    SCAI is assessing ifKuku Kambing affects cup quality.
    Sumatran Cup defects:
    Where to draw the line?
    Cup defects before Wet-hulling not acceptable;
    green grassyfruityfermentedstinker.
    Flavours created after Wet -Hulling need more discussion.
    Often disappointment at lack of expected flavour.
    
100. 100. When is a Defect not a Defect
     To improve Sumatran quality issues we need:
     Standardized vocabulary to describe and quantify Sumatran flavours.
     Higher Indonesian industry level cupping skills to be able to assess Sumatran quality before export.SCAIis promotingIndonesian Q-cupping program.
     A better understanding ofthe processes that create these flavours.
     
101. 101. Successful Sourcing of Sumatrans
     Fast efficient process chains are best.
     Sourcing direct from farmers or reliable collectors.
     Control at the Factory door bag by bag.
     Blending to create consistent lots.
     Hand sorting DP Double Pick and TP Triple Pick.What is the value?
     
102. 102. Individual Sacks Numbered
     Photo : Jeff Neilson
     
103. 103. Assessing Coffee Bag by Bag
     Photo: Jeff Neilson
     
104. 104. Conclusions
     Northern Sumatra has a dynamic Coffee industry.
     Quality often attributed to conveniently uncontrollable factors.
     Environment,Farm management.
     Varieties are important.
     Processing is probably the single major factor that influences quality and the unique flavour of Sumatrans.
     
105. 105. The Naked Coffee Bean(The key to Sumatran character)
     Stripped bare of germination inhibitors
     Heated
     Brutally massaged
     Exposed to Moulds and Yeasts
     The science behind Wet-hulling is not understood.
     We are justbeginning to understand how much we dont know.
     
106. 106. When the Standards Dont Apply:Sumatran Coffee
     Thank You