Mechanical Finishing Of woolen

and worsted suiting fabrics

Under The Guidance Of: Professor Mr. R.K.Malik

Prepared By: Vinay Indorker

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Methods Used for material

All wool material

Grey Decatizing

Singeing

Scouring

Hydro Extraction

Drying/ Padding

In process Inspection

Cropping

Pilling Test

Decatizing

Super finish

Shrinkage

Shrinkage Test

K/D

All wool LycraShrinkage

Heat settingDecatizing

K/DSingeingScouring

Hydro ExtractionPadding/ Drying

In process InspectionCropping

Pilling TestNikki PressDecatizing

Wet Heat SettingShrinkage Test

K/D

Pro

ce

ss F

low

2

Poly wool

Heat-setting

Singeing

Scouring

Hydro extraction

Padding and Drying

In process inspection

Cropping

Pilling Test

Decatizing

Rotary press

KD

Super Finish

Poly wool Lycra

Shrinkage

Singeing

Scouring

Hydro Extraction

Padding/ Drying

In process Inspection

Cropping

Pilling Test

Decatizing

Rotary Press

Wet Heat Setting

Shrinkage Test

K/D

Pro

ce

ss F

low

3

POLY VISCOSE BLENDED

Heat Setting

For Scouring and Drying

After drying

Singing

Scouring on Jigger M/C

Hydro Extraction

Padding

Decatizing on K/D

ALL WOOL/MILLING

Milling

Hydro Extraction

Padding/Drying

In Process Inspection

Relaxation

Loss Measurement

Cropping

Decatizing(Double)

Shrinkage

K/D

Pro

ce

ss F

low

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Process DescriptionHeat Setting and Drying:

• Mainly applied to the fabrics that contain synthetic fibres.

• Involves the elimination of the internal tensions within the fiber.

• Drying after padding with chemicals can also be done.

• Mode of Heating: Oil type heating.

• Over-feed: 0.5- 1.5%

• Speed: Varies with the Material.

• Padding chemicals: softener, anti-pill, nano finish etc.

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Singeing:

• For smoothing surfaces of fabrics by burning and removing fuzz thereon.

• Speed: 55-90m/min

Scouring:

• Removes dust, dirt, Wax, Grease and oil content caused due to earlier processes.

• Temperature, Speed, pH, & time of Scouring Plays an imp. role.

Hydro Extraction:

• Water is removed from the fabric by means of application of Centrifugal force.

• High speed rotating perforated bin is used.

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Cropping:

• Brushing and Shearing operations are done simultaneously.

• Cylinder wound with the Helical blades is used.

• Machine Gauzing is set as per the fabric Quality required.

Decatizing:

• Objectives: To stabilize lustre & to stabilize dimensional stability.

• Wrapper fabric : Cotton-PET Blend with Satin weave is used.

• Fabric is steamed in wrapped condition.

• Steaming Time: 3 min.

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Pressing:

• Creases are remove completely and the luster is increased.

• Two Types: 1. Rotary Press. 2. Flat Press

Kier Decatizing:

• Similar to the Decatizing process.

• Fabric is operated in a closed Chamber.

• Steam pressure: 0.8- 1.0 bar.

• Kier Temperature:120-125oC for 2min.

Shrinkage Machine:

• Fabric is laid over Nylon Belt.

• Allowed to pass through the steam in a relaxed condition.

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Super Finish:

• Fabric is first subjected to the Corino unit.

• The fabric is subjected to a water spraying unit.

• After this, the fabric is supplied into rotary unit.

• Thereafter it is transferred to a Decatizing unit.

• Imparts lustrous appearance along with handle to the Fabric.

• Fully automatic machine.

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References

• Wool: Science & Technology, Edited By W S Simpson and G H Crawshaw; Page 314-326.

• Technology Of Textile Finishing, By V.A.Shenai; Page 333-370.

• Mr. Swapnil Jain, Deputy Manager, Finishing Deptt., DigjamLtd.

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