Mechanical Finishing Of woolen
and worsted suiting fabrics
Under The Guidance Of: Professor Mr. R.K.Malik
Prepared By: Vinay Indorker
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Methods Used for material
All wool material
Grey Decatizing
Singeing
Scouring
Hydro Extraction
Drying/ Padding
In process Inspection
Cropping
Pilling Test
Decatizing
Super finish
Shrinkage
Shrinkage Test
K/D
All wool LycraShrinkage
Heat settingDecatizing
K/DSingeingScouring
Hydro ExtractionPadding/ Drying
In process InspectionCropping
Pilling TestNikki PressDecatizing
Wet Heat SettingShrinkage Test
K/D
Pro
ce
ss F
low
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Poly wool
Heat-setting
Singeing
Scouring
Hydro extraction
Padding and Drying
In process inspection
Cropping
Pilling Test
Decatizing
Rotary press
KD
Super Finish
Poly wool Lycra
Shrinkage
Singeing
Scouring
Hydro Extraction
Padding/ Drying
In process Inspection
Cropping
Pilling Test
Decatizing
Rotary Press
Wet Heat Setting
Shrinkage Test
K/D
Pro
ce
ss F
low
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POLY VISCOSE BLENDED
Heat Setting
For Scouring and Drying
After drying
Singing
Scouring on Jigger M/C
Hydro Extraction
Padding
Decatizing on K/D
ALL WOOL/MILLING
Milling
Hydro Extraction
Padding/Drying
In Process Inspection
Relaxation
Loss Measurement
Cropping
Decatizing(Double)
Shrinkage
K/D
Pro
ce
ss F
low
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Process DescriptionHeat Setting and Drying:
• Mainly applied to the fabrics that contain synthetic fibres.
• Involves the elimination of the internal tensions within the fiber.
• Drying after padding with chemicals can also be done.
• Mode of Heating: Oil type heating.
• Over-feed: 0.5- 1.5%
• Speed: Varies with the Material.
• Padding chemicals: softener, anti-pill, nano finish etc.
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Singeing:
• For smoothing surfaces of fabrics by burning and removing fuzz thereon.
• Speed: 55-90m/min
Scouring:
• Removes dust, dirt, Wax, Grease and oil content caused due to earlier processes.
• Temperature, Speed, pH, & time of Scouring Plays an imp. role.
Hydro Extraction:
• Water is removed from the fabric by means of application of Centrifugal force.
• High speed rotating perforated bin is used.
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Cropping:
• Brushing and Shearing operations are done simultaneously.
• Cylinder wound with the Helical blades is used.
• Machine Gauzing is set as per the fabric Quality required.
Decatizing:
• Objectives: To stabilize lustre & to stabilize dimensional stability.
• Wrapper fabric : Cotton-PET Blend with Satin weave is used.
• Fabric is steamed in wrapped condition.
• Steaming Time: 3 min.
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Pressing:
• Creases are remove completely and the luster is increased.
• Two Types: 1. Rotary Press. 2. Flat Press
Kier Decatizing:
• Similar to the Decatizing process.
• Fabric is operated in a closed Chamber.
• Steam pressure: 0.8- 1.0 bar.
• Kier Temperature:120-125oC for 2min.
Shrinkage Machine:
• Fabric is laid over Nylon Belt.
• Allowed to pass through the steam in a relaxed condition.
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Super Finish:
• Fabric is first subjected to the Corino unit.
• The fabric is subjected to a water spraying unit.
• After this, the fabric is supplied into rotary unit.
• Thereafter it is transferred to a Decatizing unit.
• Imparts lustrous appearance along with handle to the Fabric.
• Fully automatic machine.
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References
• Wool: Science & Technology, Edited By W S Simpson and G H Crawshaw; Page 314-326.
• Technology Of Textile Finishing, By V.A.Shenai; Page 333-370.
• Mr. Swapnil Jain, Deputy Manager, Finishing Deptt., DigjamLtd.
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