2013 NZSVO Chardonnay Workshop Proceedings

© Copyright The New Zealand Society for Viticulture and Oenology, 2013 The New Zealand Society for Viticulture and Oenology PO Box 8700 Havelock North, 4157 NEW ZEALAND Web www.nzsvo.org.nz To order additional copies of these proceedings, please contact the Society Workshop organising committee Chair Glen Creasy, Lincoln University Committee Evan Ward, Evan Ward Wine Consultancy Jenny Dobson, Winetrust Nick Sage, Executive Officer, NZSVO

http://www.nzsvo.org.nz/

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International Trends in Chardonnay

Observations and Musings from a Kiwi Perspective Tony Bish, Sacred Hill

Section 1 History Slide 2 – Introduction This presentation will focus on Chardonnay in its many guises as a dry white table wine, and is not scoped to include sparkling wine styles. Furthermore, this will not be a statistical or academic analysis derived from years of detailed research by a dedicated team of PhD students, as time and resource restraints preclude such an in depth approach. Instead, we will take a more anecdotal and general approach to ponder on what style shifts have occurred and from a questionnaire sent to various wine industry personnel, investigate cause and explanations. We will focus mainly on trends and styles that have emerged in the New World wine regions of Australia, New Zealand and California, along with some media insights from influential markets such as the UK. We will look more closely at what has been happening with Chardonnay in Australasia, as producers adapt to change in both the world wine market and domestic preferences. In order to begin somewhere, lets take a look at some historical data for NZ, and then take a snap shot look at Chardonnay from the 70’s and 80’s onwards. Slide 3 - New Zealand Production 1993 – 2012

Notes Looking at our humble beginnings, prior to 1993 data is sketchy. However the earliest records of plantings show 35 Ha existed in 1970, and it was not until the early 90’s before production area climbed over 1000 Ha nationally.

2013 NZSVO Workshop proceedings Copyright NZSVO, 2013 Page 1 of 76

Slide 4 - 1970’s Key Events

• VCR’s were invented • USA pulled out of Vietnam • Microsoft was founded • Elvis died • Nixon resigned • The first test tube baby was born

• Early bottled examples were labeled as Pinot Chardonnay, right up until the early 80’s when

the Pinot prefix was dropped. • The first of these wines was most likely Nobilo’s 1972 and a Matawhero from Denis Irwin

around the same time. These early wines had no oak, and it was not until 1978 that some experimentation with new American oak occurred.

• Across in Australia, like many grape varieties Chardonnay first came to Australia in the collection of James Busby in 1832, but it only really took off in the 1950s. However production remained small until the 1970’s.

• Murray Tyrell is accredited with starting the Australian craze for chardonnay, with a Burgundian barrel fermented style, the now famous Vat 47, in 1971. Tyrell's vineyard was planted with Chardonnay cuttings that he “borrowed" from Penfolds experimental plantings by hopping over their barb-wire fence one night and pruning their vines!

• Over in the US, Chateau Montelena won the Chardonnay tasting at the “Judgment of Paris” event hosted by Steven Spurrier in 1976. This event had a revolutionary impact on expanding the production and prestige of wine in the New World.

Slide 5 - 1980’s ..... Wine evolution

• John Lennon was assassinated • Lady Diana marries prince Charles • An apartheid selected team from South Africa tours NZ to substantial protest • The rainbow warrior was sunk by French agents • The NZ share market collapsed • The Berlin Wall falls • The ‘new romantic’ look arrived – embarrassing in retrospect • Woman took to wearing shoulder pads, a trend followed in chardonnay.

• New oak including French oak became vogue in NZ winemaking, with John Hancock & Larry

McKenna at Delegats leading the charge • Paul Mooney may well have produced NZ’s first whole bunch pressed and barrel fermented

Chardonnay in 1983. • This was followed by John Hancock’s work with Morton Estate from 1984 and their Black

Label Chardonnay • Michael Brajkovich introduced the Burgundian technique of malo-lactic fermentation in

barrel. • Te Mata Elston, Villa Maria Barrique Fermented and Babich Irongate wines added to the

quality and innovation with chardonnay • By the late 80’s, NZ chardonnays were often big, bold, yellow and buttery with alcohols

creeping from 12% up to 13.5%


Slide 6 - 1990’s – the boom years for Chardonnay

• Nelson Mandela was freed • The Soviet Union collapsed • Nelson Mandela became President of South Africa • Hong Kong returned to Chinese rule • Viagara was introduced • Bill Clinton seduced Monica Lewinsky, & got caught (not necessarily related to the

preceding event). • NZ Supermarkets began selling beer and wine

• Big chardonnays abounded on both sides of the Tasman and in the U.S. • Barrel fermentation was routine, although often without temperature control • Some refinement began to occur, with partial mlf and mix of new and used French oak • Hand picking became more common for premium wines • Across in Australia, by 1990 Chardonnay was the most widely planted white grape • Cooler areas of Australia were being planted such as Adelaide Hills and Yarra Valley • a shift in style occurred from the 1980s from deep golden, oily wines with melon and

butterscotch flavours to lighter, paler Chardonnays with more structure and notes of white peaches and nectarines

• By early 90’s chardonnay was at the height of fashion with consumers • Un-oaked chardonnay became vogue in the late 90’s • There was a new fashion, "ABC" - Anything But Chardonnay, identified by Frank Prial in 1995,

referring to Rombauer’s Napa Chardonnay. Big fat butter ball. • Oz Clarke described a view of Chardonnay as "...the ruthless coloniser and destroyer of the

world's vineyards and the world's palates,” as other varieties were pulled out to plant more chardonnay

• The problem of ‘Premox’ increases in Burgundy Slide 7 - 2000’s – the new millennium

• The human genome was first mapped • Iraq was invaded by the US • Facebook was launched, followed by YouTube and Twitter • The GFC hit in 2007 • Economic crisis hit many developed countries • Internet wine sales boom

• Sauvignon Blanc began to really boom, and in 2002 surpassed chardonnay plantings in NZ • Pinot Gris became the new kid on the block • The “ABC’ phenomenon saw tougher times for chardonnay producers • New clones of chardonnay became available • In 2004 Chardonnay was estimated to be the world's 6th most widely grown grape variety,

covering 179,300 hectares • Two Buck Chuck – Charles Shaw’s pants dropping wine phenomenon occurred in the USA • Un-oaked chardonnay dropped in popularity as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris/Grigio sales

climbed • NZ Sauvignon Blanc hit over supply issues and associated discounting from 2008 onwards


Slide 8 - 2010 to today

• The GFC still bites • The UK market is price driven and ruthless, dominated by buyers own brands • Sauvignon Blanc is the Number One selling white wine in Australia • The over supply of Sauvignon appears to be drying up, demand is high, and plantings

have resumed • New styles of chardonnay are emerging, such as the “mod Aus” leaner wines picked

earlier with no mlf, and wines showing ‘struck match’ sulphide derived complexity • There is general talk of a chardonnay comeback • Consumers have been trained to only buy wine on special • Specialist wine shops struggle to retain market share • Winemakers are at last debating various styles and techniques again • Producers try to pick the next swing in fashion – TNBT – The Next Big Thing

Section 2 Survey Slide 9 - Chardonnay Survey

• In order to try and gain insights into Trends in International Chardonnay, I developed a short questionnaire to seek answers to some basic questions, in what could be called an opinion poll format. This questionnaire was sent to an eclectic mix of wine producers, media, and retailers as a kind of ‘weather vane’ gauge to seek feedback as to what might be happening with chardonnay in today’s world.

• It must be stated this was not a scientific survey with statistically validated outcomes, but more designed to elicit commentary and feedback from participants and influencers in chardonnay.

• The first question asked was this;

Is there a shift in consumer preference for Chardonnays with less oak?


Slide 10 - Is there a shift in consumer preference for Chardonnays with less oak?

Notes • The responses to this question were emphatically in the negative, with over 70% referring to

these wines as ‘winemaker’ wines or as appealing to only aficionado's and wine judges. • All respondents however agree that it is a question of balance, however such wines are far

more likely to appeal to Burgundy drinkers and more educated palates. But the tolerance for wines with excessive sulphide complexity seems low, and many respondents were scathing of such wines. Two significant opinions emerged from protagonists;

• Firstly, introducing what can effectively be called a new genre of chardonnays with complex sulphides will confuse and deter customers, just as there is a possible resurgence of interest in the chardonnay category. There is already too much confusion around styles and expectations as many commentators describe the chardonnay class as being like a box of chocolates – you never know what you are going to get. This relates to the range of styles from oaked to un-oaked, malo usage and perceived or actual sweetness levels.

• Secondly, there is a strong view by many that elevated sulphide complexity is a fault, and similar to brettanomyces, in that these characters mask vineyard origin and fruit expression, effectively rendering the wines generic by way of sulphide fault.

• No respondents thought that consumers understood these wines. • It was acknowledged that wine show results and media profile will assist in promoting these

wines styles • Many held the view that the market for such wines was in the over $30 premium/super

premium segment • Some respondents commented that when excessive reductive characters are present, hard

palate structures can result


Slides 11 and 12 – Do you think that consumers enjoy/understand Chardonnays with reductive/struck match/complex sulphide characters, or are these winemaker wines?

• The next question asked cuts to the chase in regard to the more recent arrival of wines from

cooler areas of Australia and certain NZ producers which display more reductive, often described as ‘struck match’ sulphide characters, in varying degrees of intensity. These wines are considered ‘cutting edge’ by many commentators, and represent new and innovative ways to create complex wines with strong differentiation.

• Do you think that consumers enjoy/understand Chardonnays with reductive/struck match/complex sulphide characters, or are these winemaker wines?

Notes

• The responses to this question were emphatically in the negative, with over 70% referring to these wines as ‘winemaker’ wines or as appealing to only aficionado's and wine judges.

• All respondents however agree that it is a question of balance, however such wines are far more likely to appeal to Burgundy drinkers and more educated palates. But the tolerance for wines with excessive sulphide complexity seems low, and many respondents were scathing of such wines. Two significant opinions emerged from protagonists;

• Firstly, introducing what can effectively be called a new genre of chardonnays with complex sulphides will confuse and deter customers, just as there is a possible resurgence of interest in the chardonnay category. There is already too much confusion around styles and expectations as many commentators describe the chardonnay class as being like a box of chocolates – you never know what you are going to get. This relates to the range of styles from oaked to un-oaked, malo usage and perceived or actual sweetness levels.

• Secondly, there is a strong view by many that elevated sulphide complexity is a fault, and similar to brettanomyces, in that these characters mask vineyard origin and fruit expression, effectively rendering the wines generic by way of sulphide fault.

• No respondents thought that consumers understood these wines. • It was acknowledged that wine show results and media profile will assist in promoting these

wines styles • Many held the view that the market for such wines was in the over $30 premium/super

premium segment • Some respondents commented that when excessive reductive characters are present, hard

palate structures can result


Slides 13 and 14 - Do you agree that most consumers prefer older styles of fat buttery

Chardonnay still?

• Moving to the opposite end of the style debate, the question is asked about good old fashioned chardonnay styles. Many retailers here tell us that consumers want good old fashioned big fat buttery chardonnays. Is this true?

Do you agree that most consumers prefer older styles of fat buttery Chardonnay still?

Notes

• The responses to this question were surprising, with nearly half of respondents agreeing with the premise that most consumers still prefer fat buttery chardonnays. However there were many qualifying aspects to these responses.

• Most in the affirmative were NZ retailers and restaurateurs, whose customers are mature aged experienced wine consumers. Furthermore, consumers with preference to richer wines are not wanting wines from the 80’s with advanced colour, excessive mlf buttery notes and American oak necessarily.

• What consumers are wanting are wines with pure fruit, richness, texture and complexity, along with integrated (but evident) oak influence.

• Clearly however younger consumers are wanting fresher wines with more fruit, balanced acidity and less overt buttery characters. It is unlikely that the younger demographic will want to enjoy the same wines their parents or grandparents consumed in any case, the Generation X and Millennial’s will seek there own styles to enjoy.


Slides 15 and 16 Do you agree that Chardonnay is going to experience a revival in consumer interest over the next 5-10 years? If so, what style of Chardonnay will lead this revival?

• In terms of trends in relation to varietal options, the sixty million dollar question is what will

happen next? Do you agree that Chardonnay is going to experience a revival in consumer interest over the next 5-10 years? If so, what style of Chardonnay will lead this revival?

Notes

• Over 60% of respondents agreed that chardonnay is on the rise, which is great news for those of us here involved in chardonnay production and sales.

• The responses to the second part of this question, asking what style of chardonnay will lead this revival were extremely similar and aligned, whether coming from NZ retailers, UK Critics or wine producers. The vast majority called out for chardonnays with the following attributes;

• Cool climate fresh and pure fruit • Enhanced by subtle balanced oak • Textural palate with creaminess • Moderate alcohol • Good palate weight • Balanced acidity (not too broad and flabby) • Drinkability • From this remarkably consistent feedback, winemakers can determine strategies

and processes according to what will suit their region and fruit supply. • From NZ on premise, the current market is held by brand loyal drinkers, however education

and new styles will lead to growth of this sector • From NZ retail, the call is for partial barrel fermented styles with full malo but low diacetyl

(read texture)at $14.95 up to $19.95


Slides 17 and 18 Has the 90's and 2000's pre-recession phenomenon of mass produced ubiquitous un-oaked Chardonnay harmed the overall category, and actually pushed consumers to other more aromatic white varietals?

• We might learn what not to do by seeking reasons to the relative decline in the popularity of

chardonnay in many markets, especially in the context of booming sales in other white varietals such as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris.

• Has the 90's and 2000's pre-recession phenomenon of mass produced ubiquitous un-oaked Chardonnay harmed the overall category, and actually pushed consumers to other more aromatic white varietals?

Notes

• In response to this hypothesis, half of respondents agreed that this is indeed a key contributing factor, with many others in the ‘maybe’ category. It is no doubt far more complex than this, however we might stop and consider the macro environment consumers resided in during this period of time.

• In the key markets of UK, Australia and NZ, Sauvignon Blanc surged in popularity in spectacular fashion. Distinctive and intensely aromatic, easy to understand and recognise, and importantly, relatively homogenous in style being mainly in the range of 3-6 grams of residual sugar and no oak influence. In the main Sauvignons are consistent and reliable, and with increasing supply, also increasingly cheaper and more affordable. When the GFC hit, Marlborough experienced a huge harvest in the same year, and the commercialisation and what has been described as ‘commoditisation’ of Sauvignon Blanc occurred. Add to this the rise of clean fruity and distinctive Pinot Gris from cool climates and chardonnay with its higher cost of production and wide range of style variability found itself in a perfect storm.

• The move to aromatics was a fashion shift, and mundane boring ubiquitous chardonnay drove consumers to aromatics

• Generational trends and access to wine in supermarkets played a large part. Women became the main wine buyers in NZ, and they preferred fruity accessible wines

• There were too many dilute uninteresting chardonnays, and consumers got more bang for bucks from Sauvignon Blanc


Slides 19 and 20 - What will encourage consumers back to appreciation and enjoyment of Chardonnay's?

• So, what will lead the revival of chardonnay, that much whispered about and prophesised

second coming? How does chardonnay become vogue again? What will encourage consumers back to appreciation and enjoyment of Chardonnay's? Slide 20 - What will encourage consumers back to Chardonnay

Notes

This relates back to the earlier question posed regarding what styles of chardonnay will lead a possible revival, but supporting comments from respondents added depth and context to the principle requirements for wines with pure fruit and affordable quality.

Consumers have become accustomed to fruit driven varietals with purity and fresh acidity, but many will seek alternatives that retain some of these attributes but present more depth and complexity, and importantly, that marry well with food.

This is our challenge, to produce chardonnays with character, balance, complexity and texture at a price that doesn’t inhibit volume sales.

However, there is no doubt that the high profile of the smallest category of ‘Top End’ wines places a critical role in building the categories profile. These ‘hero’ wines help cement the perception of quality and prestige that many aromatic varieties would give they’re right arm for.

From retail NZ, the request was for more information on chardonnay labels so consumers can determine what style of chardonnay they are buying.


Slide 21 – Conclusions and Trends

• Fashions change, that is a certainty. Sauvignon Blanc’s dominance in NZ and Australia may last many more years, but consumers are likely to seek alternative styles as they grow bored with this category

• Older consumers that frequent specialist wine shops and restaurants still want bold chardonnays

• New styles will develop niches with variable success, in part dependant on marketing and promotion

• Lower alcohol styles will be in increasing demand, but consumers are unwilling to pay premium prices for these

• The un-oaked chardonnay as a genre is diminishing in appeal and sales • Premium chardonnay made without oak has potential. The UK wine market adores Chablis. • Consumers want to understand what they are getting when they purchase chardonnay, so

either consistent established brands will benefit, and/or new brands and styles that clearly communicate to the consumer what's inside

• The revival of chardonnay will not happen without a significant and coordinated effort. It will not happen ‘as of right’ or be given to us on a plate

• Collective, targeted and strategic marketing aimed at switching consumers to chardonnay has a high chance of success

• ‘Liquid on lips’ is still the best way to convince consumers a product is good • Chardonnay is the best white wine to match with food. Targeted marketing to the on

premise sector and consumers will help • We live in the age of the ‘celebrity chef’. Align, associate and leverage this to promote

chardonnay with food • Work the media. Demonstrate quality and especially longevity. Longevity is a unique quality

that Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris cannot do • Balance, balance, balance!

Chardonnay is the King of White Grapes – never forget it!


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GROWING CHARDONNAY IN AUSTRALIA AND OREGON.

Brian Croser

August 2013.

Brian Croser

August 2013.

CHARDONNAY=PINOT NOIR X GOUAIS BLANC.

AMPELOGRAPHIE.P. VIALA, V. VERMOREL.1901-1910.

GROWING CHARDONNAY IN AUSTRALIA AND OREGON-HISTORY.

Pre 1950 1950s 1960s 1970s

California 1930: Armstong Vineyard U.C. Davis

Early 1950s: Chardonnay remnants in Santa Cruz Mts and Livermore at Wente Vineyards.1950s: Olmo’s Davis clones selected from Martini Carneros including I10V1 and 108.1950: Stony Hill planted.

1961: Heat treated FPS Chardonnay 1 becomes FPS 02A.1966: Robert Mondavi winery founded and Chalone purchased by

1976: The Judgement of Paris, Chateau Montelena and Chalone 1st and 3rd

1955: Olmo in WA.1956: FPS Chardonnay 1 released by Olmo originally from Armstrong Vineyard.1957: Hanzell planted by Brad Webb

founded and Chalone purchased by Dick Graff.

and 3rd.

Australia 1832: Busby collection arrives inclChardonnay

1955: Olmo in WA imports Chardonnay.

1960s: Boubals in Mudgee identifies Chardonnay at Mudgee Wines via Craigmore from Busby.1968/69: OF (FPS02A), Mendoza and I10V1 imported from Davis.

1971: First Tyrrells Vat 47 Chardonnay.1972: David Wynn planted Chardonnay in High Eden.1974: 111 tonnes of Chardonnay from all of Australia.1977: Petaluma RCAE (Charles Sturt, Wagga) produce Cowra Chardonnay, other Chardonnay brands Rosemount, Saxonvale etc.1979: Australia 2150 tonnes of Chardonnay, SA 25 tonnes. Petaluma winery first vintage.

OregonLate 1960s: Ponzi and Lett import Davis 108, Draper Ranch and Martini selections

1972‐74: Knudsen Vineyard planted –50 hectares including Chardonnay 108.


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GROWING CHARDONNAY IN AUSTRALIA AND OREGON-HISTORY.

1980s 1990s 2000s 2010s

California 1995: California 287,000 tons of Chardonnay

2012: California 736,000 tons of Chardonnay, 2.6x increase from 1995

Australia1980: Piccadilly Valley, Tiers planted with OF and Mendoza 7’ x 5’ spacing.1980‐85: 30 hectares of Chardonnay planted in Piccadilly Valley.1985: First Croser sparkling wine, 100% Chardonnay from Tiers.

1990: Petaluma’s first 100% Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay.1996: First Piccadilly Valley plantings of Dijon 76,95 and 96. Australian Chardonnay 90,000 tonnes.

2003: Replant part of Tiers with Dijon 95 and 96 on 1.5x1.5 metre spacing with 101‐14 and Teleki 5C rootstocks.

2013: Australian Chardonnay harvest 248,000 tonnes, 3.9x 1995.

Oregon 1985: Dijon clones released.1987: Argyle founded.

1996: Oregon has 600 hectares of Chardonnay. 1996: Argyle begins planting 46 hectare Lonestar Vineyard including 7’x5’ Dijon 95 and 96.

2012: Oregon has 384 hectares of Chardonnay producing.

GROWING CHARDONNAYIN AUSTRALIA.

GROWING CHARDONNAY IN AUSTRALIA.GROWING CHARDONNAY IN AUSTRALIA.

MOUNT LOFTY 727 METERS ASL, MOUNT BONYTHON 682 METERS ASL.


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TIERS VINEYARD OLD, OF AND MENDOZA, 1980, 550 METERS ASL.


PROFESSOR RAYMOND BERNARD, AUTHOR OF THE DIJON CLONES AT FOGGY HILL PARAWA IN 2004


DIJON 76 AND 95 ON101-14 AND TELEKI 5C.

TIERS VINEYARD, 1.5M X 1.5M, 2003, 550 METERS ASL.


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OF CHARDONNAY AT TIERS, PLANTED IN 1980.

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GROWING CHARDONNAY IN OREGON.GROWING CHARDONNAY IN OREGON.

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MOUNT HOOD, 3249 METERS ASL


LONESTAR VINEYARD BLOCK 10, 2.1 HECTARES, 85 METERS ASL.

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LONESTAR VINEYARD BLOCK 15, 2.2 HECTARES, 110 METERS ASL


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DIJON CLONE 96 AT LONESTAR PLNTED IN 1999.

GROWING RIESLING IN OREGON.GROWING RIESLING IN OREGON.

TUNKALILLA VINEYARD 170 METERS ASL.

GROWING PINOT NOIR IN OREGON.GROWING PINOT NOIR IN OREGON.

JORY/NEKIA SOIL ON BASALT, CRISTOM VINEYARD IN BACKGROUND.

170 METERS ASL.


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GROWING CHARDONNAY IN THE WORLD.

“Early budding and ripening, productive. Easy to grow.” “It is arguably the most versatile white wine grape. Without a dominant flavour of its own, it can take on a wide array of aromas depending on where it is grown and, particularly, how it is made.” Jancis Robinson et al. Winegrapes.

Just adding up the areas of Chardonnay in the 40 countries quoted in JancisJust adding up the areas of Chardonnay in the 40 countries quoted in JancisRobinson’s Winegrapes there are close to:

• 200,000 hectares globally, probably producing around

• 2 million tones of grapes and

• 120 million cases of wine valued at

• $5 billion at the winery and double that at retail.

• Chardonnay plantings represent 5% of global wine-grape plantings.

GROWING CHARDONNAY IN THE WORLD.

GROWING CHARDONNAY IN AUSTRALIA AND OREGON.

Fine-Wine Chardonnay.

• Chardonnay is made into a fine and floral base wine for Champagne and new world sparkling wine again providing texture to blends with Pinot Noir or as a Blanc de Blanc.

• Chardonnay is made into seriously austere, moderate alcohol, high acid age-worthy Chablis style for the fine wine, dining market.

• Chardonnay is made into the gloriously complex, ripe fruit, richly textured, usually age-worthy white Burgundy style in the new world and old.

• Chardonnay is truly versatile but it is also unique in its ability to exude complexity and to provide significant wine texture beyond any other white variety.

• Chardonnay is viticulturally unique, it is very responsive to the terroir in which it is grown and takes on the nuances of the winemaker’s art without losing its identity.

• Chardonnay is not a blank canvas to be painted by the winemaker. It does have a strong and vibrant independent varietal personality, which differs markedly with terroirs and that personality is resilient to the interferences and manipulations of the winemaker.


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GROWING CHARDONNAY IN THE PICCADILLY VALLEY.

Piccadilly Valley Terroir.

• GDD 1176°C days (1926-1964) BOM.

• GDD 1179°C days (1990-2013) Tiers Vineyard.

• GDD Range, 1001°C days(1994) to 1360°C days (2010)-1.7°C/day.

• Daily Range 11.6°C.

• Annual Rain 1153mm’s, Growing Season Rain 425 mm’s.

• Altitude 550 meters ASL.

• Geology, 700 to 1600 myo, phyllites, shales, sandstones and quartz strata.

• Soils podsolised duplex, from sandy loams to clay loams.

• Aspects mainly north and east at 10° to 20°.

GROWING CHARDONNAY IN THE EOLA HILLS.

Eola Hils Terroir.

• GDD 1090°C days (Jones extrapalation) Salem1237°C days.

• GDD 1191°C days (Gladstones, Portland)

• GDD 1359° C days (Cristom1986-2012)

• Daily Range 10.4°C (Gladstones, Portland)

• Annual Rain 1175, Growing Season Rain 357mm’s.

• Altitude 85 meters to 250 meters ASL

• Geology below 120 meters Missoula Flood eratics and sediments.

• Geology above 120 meters basalt.

• Soils alluvial silty, to clay loams formed from basalt. (Jory/Nekia)

• Aspects mainly south and east at 5° to 15°.

GROWING CHARDONNAY IN THE TIERS.

TIERS OLD.

• OF and Mendoza-own roots- planted 1980.

• Spacing 2.1m X 1.5m (3,100 vines/hectare)

• Height 0.9 to 1.2 meters.

• 62,000 buds/hectare-cane pruned, 20 buds/vine.

• Shoot separation 7.5cms.


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TIERS VINEYARD OLD, OF AND MENDOZA, 1980, 550 METERS ASL.

GROWING CHARDONNAY IN THE TIERS.

TIERS 1.5M X 1.5M.

• Dijon 76 on Teleki 5C and Dijon 95 on 101-14.


• Height 0.5 meters.

• 90,000 buds/hectare, 20 buds/ vine



DIJON 76 AND 95 ON101-14 AND TELEKI 5C.

TIERS VINEYARD, 1.5M X 1.5M, 2003, 550 METERS ASL.


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GROWING CHARDONNAY AT LONESTAR.

LONESTAR BLOCKS 10 AND 15.

• Dijon 96 on 101-14 (2000) and Dijon 95 on 3309. (1999)


• Height 0.6 meters.

• 74,000 buds/hectare, cane pruned to 24 buds/vine


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LONESTAR VINEYARD BLOCK 15, 2.2 HECTARES, 110 METERS ASL

HARVESTING CHARDONNAY AT TIERS AND LONESTAR.

PICCADILLY VALLEY.

Sparkling: Last week February to 3rd week of March

Analysis 19 to 21 Brix, pH 2.9 to 3.0 and acid 10 to 12gpl.

TIERS.

Table Wine: Middle March to first week April.

Analysis 22.5 to 23.5 Brix, pH 3.0 to 3.15, acid 6 to 9gpl.

LONESTAR.

Sparkling: 2nd week of September to 3rd week of October.

Analysis 19.5 to 21.5 Brix, pH 3.0 to 3.2, acid 8 to 11 gpl.

Table Wine: 3rd week of September to 3rd week of October.

Analysis 21 to 22.5 Brix, , pH 3.1 to 3.25, acid 7 to 10gpl.


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CHARDONNAY MATURITY TIERS AND LONESTAR.

VineyardAve GDD C days Year

GDD C days

Table Wine Sparkling Wine

Date Brix Acid pH Date Brix Acid pH

Tiers Old cool

1179 2011 1069 12/4 22.0 8.8 3.07 4/4 20.0 9.0 2.92

Tiers Old warm

1179 2012 1215 15/3 23.6 7.81 3.11 24/2 20.0 12.0 2.8

Tiers 1.5m warm

1179 2012 1215 15/3 23.4 5.3 3.34 21/2 20.0 9.5 2.9

Lonestarcool

1359 2010 1131 23/10 21.4 8.7 3.12 14/10 20.0 10.5 3.05

Lonestarwarm

1359 2009 1337 20/9 21.2 8.0 3.23 12/9 20.0 10.2 3.0

GROWING CHARDONNAY IN BURGUNDY.GROWING CHARDONNAY IN BURGUNDY.

Next vineyard acquisition?


20/08/2013

15

GROWING CHARDONNAY IN BURGUNDY.

GROWING CHARDONNAY ISSUES.

Issues for Consideration.

• How much lime to add to podsolised Piccadilly Valley and acidic basalt derived soils in the Willamette Valley? What is an acceptable pH?

• How much organic matter to add and other fertilizers? .

• Should the mown sward in the row contain nitrogen-fixing legumes or not? Combined with issue 2, this influences vine vigor and juice YAN and influences the glutathione content in the final winewine.

• Under-vine treatment, to spray out or not, use of Roundup and Basta and their long-term effects on soil biota?

• What spray program to use?

• When to foliage trim?

• How much crop thinning is quality effective? What are the desirable crop levels for table and sparkling wines?

• How much fruit exposure for table and sparkling wines? “Next gen” Chardonnay involves more shaded fruit.

• When to harvest table wine fruit? “Next gen” Chardonnay is being harvested earlier with higher natural acids.

• To hand harvest or mechanically harvest? The cost difference is about $500/tonne and it raises the related question of whole fruit pressing or not?

THE ESSENCE OF CHARDONNAY.

• Chardonnay is not the only white wine as it was in the 1990’s and its sales growth has slowed inevitably.

This will not be reversed by trying to make Chardonnay lookmore like Sauvignon Blanc.

• Chardonnay’s real strength is its genetic traits and its future is in the handsChardonnay s real strength is its genetic traits and its future is in the hands of the viticulturists and winemakers who refine techniques to allow its best expression of those traits.

• Early harvest of Chardonnay before its essential ripe fruit qualities can be expressed and dressing it in the robes of fermentation odours is not the answer.


GROWING CHARDONNAY IN AUSTRALIA AND OREGON. BRIAN CROSER, JULY 2013.

Introduction. Chardonnay was virtually unknown as a grape variety in Australia when I started as a winemaker at Thomas Hardy and Sons in 1970. The Boehm and Tulloch ampelography called Grape Varieties of South Australia, published in 1967, makes a pedestrian leap from Carignane to Doradillo without a mention of the noble Chardonnnay in between. Ref 1. Chardonnay existed in only a few vineyards at that time in Mudgee and the Hunter Valley as remnants of the original James Busby collection of varieties imported in 1832. Ref 2. My first experience of Chardonnay, as with many things, was in California in 1972/1973 while I was studying at Davis. This was the breakout era of the Californian boutique wine business spearheaded by Robert Mondavi and Chardonnay was the glamorous white queen to Cabernet Sauvignon, the king of red varieties in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. Oak fermented and aged white wine was completely revolutionary to someone used only to making highly anaerobic, stainless steel fermented Riesling. The complexity, texture and lush fruit of Californian Chardonnay were mesmerizing. Chateau Montelena and Chalone Chardonnays (1st and 3rd in the 1976 Judgement of Paris), Hanzell, Robert Mondavi, Stony Hill, Freemark Abbey, Martin Ray, Souveraine and Mayacamas are some of the producers whose wines were an inspiration to return to Australia and find a place to grow Chardonnay. Refs 3&4. But first where to find Chardonnay? New South Wales was the first state to jump on the Chardonnay bandwagon, because that’s where the source material had persisted from the 19th century in the Hunter Valley and at Mudgee. Murray Tyrrell’s 1971 Vat 47 was the breakout wine which presaged plantings through the 1970’s in the Hunter, Upper and Lower, in the Riverina and curiously at Cowra in central New South Wales. In 1974 there were just 111 tonnes of Chardonnay harvested, virtually all in New South Wales and by the end of the decade that had grown to 2,149 tonnes, split between New South Wales and Victoria with tiny quantities from South Australia and Western Australia. South Australia’s first Chardonnay harvest was recorded in 1979 at 25 tonnes. Refs 5&6. Petaluma Chardonnay and Croser Sparkling Wine. In 1977 and 1978, Chardonnay from Cowra was harvested for Charles Sturt University (then Riverina College) and for Petaluma, which for the latter began the journey of chasing Chardonnay into the ever-cooler regions of Clare and Coonawarra and finally as the pioneer of the Adelaide Hills, into the Piccadilly Valley in 1979. The Petaluma winery was built in 1978 in time for the 1979 harvest (just) on the bottom end of the land that was destined to become the Tiers Vineyard in the wet and cool Piccadilly Valley, the first vineyard in the Adelaide Hills. In 1980 and 1982 The Tiers vineyard was planted with 5.0 hectares of Chardonnay on the then radical spacing of 7 feet between rows and 5 feet (2.13mX1.52m) between plants (3100 vines/hectare) and trellised to a one-meter vertical canopy from the fruiting wire at 0.9 meters above the ground. The Chardonnay clones used to plant The Tiers came from the Yalumba nursery identified as Chardonnay OF and Chardonnay Mendoza.


It was a very busy time as we established 7 different vineyard sites in the Piccadilly Valley through to 1985 as well as a new vineyard in Coonawarra. The Piccadilly Valley vineyards were planted to Chardonnay (30 hectares) and Pinot Noir (13 hectares) to make both table and sparkling wine. The Mendoza clone was only planted in small parts of two of the vineyards including The Tiers and the rest of the Chardonnay planted were the OF and I10V1 clones. Ref 7. Some very recent research has elucidated the OF clone as the former UC Davis, Foundation Plant Services clone FPS 02A, also described in Australia as F1V3. Foundation Plant Services’ Nancy L. Sweet describes FPS 02A being originally sourced from the UC Davis Armstrong vineyard in the 1930’s and was planted in one of the original Foundation blocks by Professor Olmo in 1956 as Chardonnay 1. The original source of Chardonnay 1 is unknown. Chardonnay 1 was different from the so-called Davis or Wente clones, which Professor Olmo selected on the basis of productivity from the Martini vineyards in Carneros in the 1950’s. It was distributed as Chardonnay 1 until 1961 when some of the material was subjected to 102 days of heat treatment and the clone was renumbered as FPS 02A. In a delicious irony for me having pruned in that block as student under Professor Olmo, the clone came to Australia in 1968. At Davis FPS 02 disappeared from the FPS source blocks after 1969 because of the detection of leaf-roll and despite being widely planted in California. It has been returned from the Wente vineyards to FPS in 1991 and after tip propagation has been distributed as FPS 72 since 2002. Dr. Jim Wolpert of UC Davis and Ralph Riva of Wente Vineyards, describe FPS 02A as “clean with uniform production and small clusters with frequent “hens and chicks” morphology”, producing “four main flavour components-apple, muscat, pineapple and fruit cocktail-which results in a very good Chardonnay.”Ref 8. The Mendoza clone was received at FPS Davis from Mendoza Argentina in 1961 and it was released in the 1960’s as Chardonnay 01A. It was discarded in 1974 because of poor fruit set. Ref 8. The I10V1 clone was the most productive clone selected by Professor Olmo from the Martini Carneros vineyard and was labeled FPS 06 as one of the ubiquitous Davis/Wente clones. Ref 8. The 30 years-old Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay vineyards are based on these three clones. Despite the intense planting program in the Piccadilly Valley in the early 1980’s Petaluma Chardonnay continued to include components from Clare and Coonawarra until 1990 which was the first 100% Petaluma Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay. Croser sparkling wine was first made in 1985 and was dominantly Chardonnay up until 1990 and always 100% Piccadilly Valley fruit. In the 1990’s, new vineyards were planted for Petaluma in the Piccadilly Valley incorporating the Dijon clones 76, 95 and 96. 1.4 hectares of the original Tiers vineyard were removed in 2001 and the area has been replanted with Dijon clones 76 and 95 on 101-14 and Teleki 5C rootstocks in 2003. This new planting is on a1.5mX1.5m spacing with the vines cane pruned at 0.5 meters above the ground. Argyle Chardonnay and Sparkling Wine. In a parallel universe in 1987, Argyle winery in Dundee Oregon began with the specific intention of emulating the Petaluma Piccadilly Valley model of using the best blocks and vintages of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for table wine and the less


suited blocks and vintages for the production of sparkling wine. Oregon at that time had a short viticultural history but one characterized by wide swings of vintage quality. The difference from the Piccadilly model was that Oregon already had available mature Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards and fruit including the large Dundee Hills vineyard of the Knudsen family planted between 1972 and 1974. In the Piccadilly Valley all of the plantings were new, the Pinot Noir was planted with the intention of making sparkling wine and the primary table wine focus was on Chardonnay. The reverse was the case in Oregon. Oregon Chardonnay was already recognized as being handicapped by the prevalence of the high yielding and late ripening so called Davis or Wente clone 108 which in truth was a mixture of two of Professor Olmo’s selections from the Martini Carneros vineyard brought into Oregon by Dick Ponzi in 1970. As well as Davis 108 there were plantings of Draper Ranch (St. Helena) and Martini Carneros selections, which were originally from the same Wente vineyard source as Davis 108 but were non-clonal and not as high yielding. Refs 8&9. Davis 108 did not make great table wine but provided a very good base for sparkling wine. In the early 1990’s, Cal Knudsen replanted some of the original wide spaced vineyard and planted newly acquired areas with the Dijon clones 76, 95 and 96 on closer spacing of 5X5 feet (4300 vines/hectare) and 7X5 feet (3,100 vines/hectare). The original plantings were 10X6 feet (1790 vines/hectare). In 1996 Argyle planted the 46-hectare Lone Star vineyard in the Eola Hills, mostly to Pinot Noir but with some closer spaced, 7 X5 feet, Dijon Chardonnay clones 95 and 96 on 101-14 and 3309 devigorating rootstocks. The quality of Oregon Chardonnay has improved enormously as the Dijon clone vineyards have matured and winemakers have focused on the appropriate wine styles. Ref 9. Why Chardonnay? We now know Chardonnay is the offspring of the commoner Gouais Blanc and the noble Pinot Noir, begat somewhere in the Burgundy/Saone et Loire region before the 18th century. Ref 10. We also know that Chardonnay is the most successful white cultivar of Vitis vinifera and is globally synonymous with high quality white wine. Just adding up the areas of Chardonnay in the 40 countries quoted in Jancis Robinson’s Winegrapes there are close to

200,000 hectares globally, probably producing around

2 million tones of grapes and

120 million cases of wine valued at

$5 billion at the winery and double that at retail. Chardonnay plantings represent 5% of global wine-grape plantings and to put a perspective on some countries/states of interest,


CHARDONNAY PRODUCTION.

Country/state Hectares Tonnes Yield (tonnes/hectare)

% of total area

France 44,600 5.5 California 38,500 736,000 19.12 17.4 Australia 25,500 348,000 13.6 17.0 New Zealand 3,120 22,855 7.3 8.7 Oregon 384 1,923 5.0 4.7

Refs, 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15. Why has Chardonnay achieved global dominance of the quality white wine market of the affluent world? In the words of Jancis Robinson et al, “Early budding and ripening, productive. Easy to grow.” “It is arguably the most versatile white wine grape. Without a dominant flavour of its own, it can take on a wide array of aromas depending on where it is grown and, particularly, how it is made.” Ref 10. Branded Commodity Chardonnay. Chardonnay is made into un-oaked or oak infused inoffensive table wine with some texture for the branded commodity table wine market’s biggest brands. We’re not here to discuss the growing of branded commodity Chardonnay, although that makes up the vast majority of the global production of Chardonnay. It’s bland, branded commodity Chardonnay that has created the overhyped ABC reaction from the market that reflects on all Chardonnay. Ref 16. Fine-Wine Chardonnay. Chardonnay is made into a fine and floral base wine for Champagne and new world sparkling wine again providing texture to blends with Pinot Noir or as a Blanc de Blanc. Chardonnay is made into seriously austere, moderate alcohol, high acid age-worthy Chablis style for the fine wine, dining market. Chardonnay is made into the gloriously complex, ripe fruit, richly textured, usually age-worthy white Burgundy style in the new world and old. Chardonnay is truly versatile but it is also unique in its ability to exude complexity and to provide significant wine texture beyond any other white variety. Chardonnay is viticulturally unique, it is very responsive to the terroir in which it is grown and takes on the nuances of the winemaker’s art without losing its identity. Chardonnay is not a blank canvas to be painted by the winemaker. It does have a strong and vibrant independent varietal personality, which differs markedly with terroirs and that personality is resilient to the interferences and manipulations of the winemaker. In the winemaking section of this seminar I will present evidence of the varietal uniqueness of Chardonnay that makes it terroir responsive and reflective. It is now time to examine the terroirs in which Chardonnay attains its best expression and the viticultural approaches to optimize its qualities. After more than 30 years of experience in each, I count the Willamette Valley, Oregon and the Piccadilly Valley in the Adelaide Hills as two of those special Chardonnay terroirs.


Chardonnay Terroirs. Temperature during the growing season is the parameter of a given terroir that most influences choice of variety for that site. Whether growing season temperature is measured in GDD (growing degree days), BEDD (biologically effective degree days) or GST (average growing season temperature) the answers are much the same for the low heat requiring Chardonnay cultivar. I shall adopt GDD for comparison purposes. Ref 17. Gladstones’ “Maturity Ranking of Grape Varieties”, Table 10.1, places Chardonnay with Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc and others in early ripening Group 3

requiring 1140C days, minimum temperature accumulation to ripen for table wine. In his “Construction of Viticultural Tables”, Table 11.1, Gladstones places Champagne, Burgundy, Marlborough NZ, and Willamette Valley in the GDD

temperature bracket from 1060 to 1272C days suitable for “Cool climate still and sparkling wines from early maturing varieties.” Ref 18. Jones et al. assign a GDD to,

Willamette Valley of 1081C days, (Salem 1278C days)

Burgundy of 1118C days. Ref 17. Piccadilly Valley. CSIRO “Soils of the Mount Lofty Botanic Garden, SA.” (1973), Table 4 quotes 38 years of BOM Stirling temperature data from 1926 to 1964, giving a GDD of

1176C days. This low GDD and the moderate daily range for the growing season

of 11.6C was why the Piccadilly Valley was chosen as a suitable terroir for Petaluma Chardonnay in 1978. Ref 19. 24 years of data from 1990 to 2013 from Petaluma’s own weather station at the Tiers Vineyard supplemented by lapse rate adjusted data from Mt Lofty for some

years, gives a GDD of 1179C days. The range of GDD in the period is from

1001C days in 1994 to 1360C days in 2010, a 1.7C average growing season temperature variation. The role of daily range in determining the style and quality of wine is underestimated and is discussed fully in Gladstones Wine, Terroir and Climate Change. Ref 18. My view is that a slightly higher diurnal range is desirable for Chardonnay, the colder nights maintaining malic acid levels and the warmer days creating the ripe fruit flavours

characteristic of Chardonnay. 11 to 12 C is an ideal range whereas Pinot Noir benefits from lower daily ranges. The average height of the Piccadilly Valley vineyards is about 550 meters ASL. Mount Lofty Botanic Gardens has recorded 1153mm’s of average annual rainfall from 2000 to 2012. Ref 20. The geology of the Piccadilly Valley consists of pre-cambrium sediments ranging from 1600 million years-old calcsilicates, to 700 million years-old phyllites, shales, sandstones and quartz rich strata. The soils are podsolised duplex, sandy to clay loams and the geology and soil has a discernible effect on the quality and style of the Chardonnay produced. The calcsilicates, phyllites and shales produce the highest clay content soils and the richest, most tactile and stonefruit complex wines better suited as table wine. The sandstone and quartz derived sandy loams produce the lighter, simpler and grapefruit, citrus Chardonnay expressions better suited to sparkling wine base. Ref 21.


The vineyards in the Piccadilly Valley are on small internal undulations, with slopes

from 10 to 20 that give aspects to many points of the compass. The amount of heat received by a site is very orientation dependent and the warm northeast slopes are preferred for table wine and the cool south to southeast slopes for sparkling wine. There are very few western oriented slopes. Eola Hills-Willamette Valley. The Eola Hills portion of the Willamette Valley is perched above Salem, the capital of Oregon, to the south and is truncated by the Van Duzer Corridor cutting through the coastal range to the Pacific to the west. The Lone Star Vineyard, which was planted betwen 1996 and 2000 is south-southeastern facing and is 80 to 120 meters ASL. Because of its relatively low altitude it is composed of a mixture of basalt derived soils, Jory, Nekia, Ritner and alluvial silty sediments, Helvetia and Woodburn. Ref 22. There are erratics introduced by the Missoula floods as Lone star is below the 120 meter flood-line and most of the alluvium relates to these legendary floods. The heat summation for this part of the Eola Hills-Amity AVA is contradictory. A recording station adjacent to Lonestar Vineyard at Seven Springs and another

nearby at Cristom Jessie Vineyard are consistent and give an average of 1359C days from 1986 to 2012. Ref 23.

Jones et al. using the PRISM Climate Group, Oregon State University data,

extrapolates a summation of 1090C days, although he quotes nearby Salem at

1237C days. The Jones calculated BEDD is closer to the actual recorded data at

1221C days. Ref 17.

Gladstones calculates Portland Oregon GDD as 1179 C days and after eliminating

his 19C cutoff the summation is 1191C days. Gladstones also calculates the Daily

Range of Portland at a very moderate 10.4C. Ref 24. In the Lonestar vineyard the Chardonnay is planted on 7 by 5 feet (3100 vines/hectare) and the fruiting wire is at 0.6 meters above ground level, similar to the original Tiers plantings. Viticultural Decisions. In both the Tiers Vineyard in the Piccadilly Valley and Lonestar in the Eola Hills a similar viticultural philosophy has decided vineyard design and management. Vineyard Capacity/Vigor and Vine Spacing. The vineyards have been designed around the capacity of the site that dictates the bud number required to keep foliage in balance with crop. For the Tiers vineyard, a relatively vigorous site, this number is 90,000 buds/hectare in young vines planted in 2003 dropping away in the devigorated 30 years-old vines to 62,000 buds/hectare. The young vines are on 1.5mX1.5m spacing (4,444 vines/hectare) so there are 20 buds/vine or 1 shoot every 7.4cms. This provides an open canopy. The young vines are only 0.5m above the ground and the 24-hour ground warmth combined with the precocious Dijon clones and devigorating rootstocks promote harvest at significantly lower acids than in the old vineyard. On the old vines at 3100 vines/hectare there are also 20 buds/vine and the buds are 7.4 cms apart, again adequate separation for an open canopy. The old vines are 0.9 meters and 1.2 meters above the ground and relatively insulated from the warming effect of the ground. At Lonestar the bud number is 74,000/hectare and the shoot spacing is 6.4cms.


Pruning. At the Tiers all vines are cane pruned although old Tiers was originally spur pruned for the first 20 years and has undergone a massive conversion and retrellising. The crop level averages 7 tonnes/hectare in the old vineyard and 10 tonnes/hectare in the close spaced young vineyard planted in 2003. These yields are higher and more reliable than had been previously achieved with spur pruning. Cane pruning has slightly delayed harvest and produces grapes at lower sugars and higher acids and I think better flavours. Lonestar is cane pruned at 2 X 10 bud canes and 2 X 2 bud replacement spurs/vine or 24 buds/vine (74,000 buds/hectare). The fruiting cane is 0.6 meters from the ground. Shoot and Crop Thinning. Consistent with the overarching aim to keep a balanced and open canopy with significant fruit exposure, all water-shoots at the head of the vine are removed when the shots are 200 mms long in mid November. Shoot thinning is performed in both table and sparkling wine blocks. In most table wine blocks the fruit is thinned to 7 tonnes/hectare at veraison and the sparkling wine blocks are left un-thinned. Irrigation Management. With a growing season rainfall of 333 mm’s (October to March) and an afternoon relative humidity of 52%, the need for irrigation in the Piccadilly Valley is not great. Ideally water would not be applied at all and if it is required not before veraison and the cessation of growth in January. After veraison enough water is applied to keep the vine canopy healthy and to avoid yellowing of basal leaves. A dry season might require 4 irrigations of 10mm’s each between the middle of January and the middle of March. A normal to wet season will require no irrigation at all. Total irrigation is always less than 0.5 ML/hectare. There is much the same irrigation requirement at Lonestar Vineyard in Oregon. Portland records 323mm’s of growing season rain and 52% average afternoon humidity. Ref 24. Harvest Timing. For the Piccadilly Valley, the spread of harvest for sparkling wine is usually from the last week in February to about the third week of March and harvest analysis is from 19 to 21 Brix, pH 2.9 to 3.0 and acid from 12 to 10 gpl. Table wine Chardonnay is usually harvested from the middle of March to the first week of April again very dependent on the GDD of the season. The analysis at harvest is from 22.5 to 23.5 Brix, pH 3.0 to 3.15, acid 6 to 9gpl. All fruit is hand harvested, the sparkling wine fruit into 400 kilogram slotted bins to allow fruit cooling before processing.


Issues for Consideration.

How much lime to add to podsolised Piccadilly Valley and acidic basalt derived soils in the Willamette Valley? What is an acceptable pH? –pH 6 to 6.5. Maintained by 2.0 tonnes/hectare of lime every 3 to 4 years.

How much organic matter to add and other fertilizers? 1 tonne/hectare of sterilized chicken manure every 2 years.

Should the mown sward in the row contain nitrogen-fixing legumes or not? Combined with issue 2, this influences vine vigor and juice YAN and influences the glutathione content in the final wine. Vine vigour is balanced and YAN is 235ppm.

Under-vine treatment, to spray out or not, use of Roundup and Basta and their long-term effects on soil biota? No long term effects.

What spray program to use? Essentially Cu and S with a pre-bunch closure Botrytis preventative spray and a situation dependent systemic powdery mildew control. Limited to 5 to 8 sprays a year. BT spray only for LBAM control.

When to foliage trim? In January when growth has stopped and the abscisic trigger has been pulled and lateral growth is unlikely.

How much crop thinning is quality effective? What are the desirable crop levels for table and sparkling wines? 7 tonnes/hectare for table wine and 10 tonnes/hectare for sparkling wine.

How much fruit exposure for table and sparkling wines? The same for sparkling and table wine fruit, the test being able to see most bunches on the vine without moving foliage. “Next gen” Chardonnay involves more shaded fruit.

When to harvest table wine fruit? We harvest flavour ripe fruit at malic acid levels of less than 2gpl. “Next gen” Chardonnay is being harvested earlier with higher natural acids.

To hand harvest or mechanically harvest? The cost difference is about $500/tonne and it raises the related question of whole fruit pressing or not? All hand harvested.

Finally:The Essence of Chardonnay. Chardonnay is truly a noble cultivar of Viitis vinifera. Its versatility is unequalled, providing the bland but textured base, like no other variety can provide, of the globe’s favourite branded commodity white wines as well as the glory of the world’s greatest, most complex fine white wines from Montrachet, Sonoma Coast, Willamette Valley, Adelaide Hills and Marlborough. Within the fine wine envelope, Chardonnay exhibits the terroir (mostly climate) driven differentiation between the high acid, fine base wine for Champagne and new world equivalents, the cooler region austere table wine expression of Chablis and new world examples and finally at its apotheosis, the great, textured, complex, intense, ripe fruit resplendent White Burgundy style. Chardonnay appears in so many roles, unique among its peers at being the best at what it does. That makes it its own worst enemy as naysayers gather to lament the passing of fashion for one or other of its expressions. What Chardonnay can’t be is a simple, fresh fruit intense, highly varietally recognizable, low texture refreshing wine as Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling are. Where does Chardonnay go from here? It is no longer the only white wine as it was in the 1990’s. The educated market expresses preference for one or other of the two main white wine types, complex


and textured or vibrant fresh and simple. Personal and occasional preference between the two, have evened up over the past decade and quite rightly there has been an evening up of sales of each type and a predictable slowing of Chardonnay sales growth. Ref 25. This will not be reversed by trying to make Chardonnay look more like Sauvignon Blanc. Chardonnay’s real strength is its genetic traits and its future is in the hands of the viticulturists and winemakers who refine techniques to allow its best expression of those traits. Early harvest of Chardonnay before its essential ripe fruit qualities can be expressed and dressing it in the robes of fermentation odours is not the answer. BJC.14/7/2013.

References.

1) Boehm, E. W., Tulloch, H. W. (1967) Grape Varieties of South Australia. 2) Busby, J. (1832). Journal of a Tour. 3) Thompson, B. (1973) California Wine, A Sunset Pictorial. 4) Hannum, H., Blumberg, R. S., (1971) The Fine Wines of California. 5) Paterson, T. (MW). (2004) Australian Chardonnay: Past, Present and

Future. Journal of Wine Research Vol. 15, No 2. 6) The Australian Wine and Brandy Producing Industry, Annual Report 1980

and Annual Report 1981. 7) National Register of Grapevine Varieties and Clones (2006), Australian Vine

Improvement Society, National ID 580, 591 and 602. 8) Sweet, N. L. (2007) Chardonnay History and Selections at FPS. Foundation

Plant Services, UC Davis. 9) Cossey, J. (2012). Art of Chardonnay, Oregon Wine Press. 10) Robinson J., Harding J., Vouillamoz J. (2012) Winegrapes. 11) OIV (2012) Statistical report on world vitiviniculture 2012. 12) Wine Institute (2013) California Chardonnay 13) Wine Australia (2013) Winefacts Chardonnay Varietal Snapshot. 14) New Zealand Winegrowers (2012) Vineyard Register Report 2012. 15) National Agricultural Statistics Service (2012), 2011 Oregon Vineyard

Report. 16) Croser B. (2004) Brand or Authenticity, Wine and Spirit Education Trust

Annual Lecture 2004. 17) Jones G., Duff A., Hall A., Myers J. (2010) Spatial Analysis of Climate in

Winegrape Growing Regions in the Western United States, AJEV 61:3, 313-326.

18) Gladstones J. (2011) Wine Terroir and Climate Change. Wakefield Press Adelaide.

19) Wright M. (1973) CSIRO Soils of the Mount Lofty Gardens SA., Table 4. 20) Bureau of Meteorology, Australian Government (2013) Monthly Rainfall,

Piccadilly (Mount Lofty Botanic Garden), Station Number 23788. 21) McKenzie D. (2002) Influence of Geology on Chardonnay From the

Vineyards of the Piccadilly Valley, S.A. (Private research for Petaluma by Terroir Australia).

22) www.everyine.com Argyle Lone Star Vineyard. 23) Gladstones J. (1992) Viticulture and Environment 24) Gerrie T. (2013) Cristom Winery, Personal Communication. 25) Saliba A. (2012) Attitudes, Drivers of Consumption and Taste Preferences: a

Focus on Chardonnay. Project NWG 1103.


http://www.everyvine.com/

20/08/2013

1

Chardonnay the Queen of all Grape Varieties

Dave Jordan (DJ)

[email protected]

Chardonnay: Saluting our Queen

• Last year I spoke about Pinot noir and compared it to Sauvignon blanc:

– “Particular Peter” Pinot noir

vs.

– “Surfer” Sauvignon blanc

• In similar vein:

– “Queen” Chardonnay

Chardonnay: Saluting our Queen

• “Queen” Chardonnay

– Sister (Twin?) to Pinot noir

• Quieter but demands attention

• Sensitive to wind• Sensitive to wind

– Raw natural beauty but better noticed with make‐up (oak/MLF/….)

– Structure with a soft side


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Outline

• Why me?

• What detail?

– Chardonnay’s royal past

Ch d ’ h d– Chardonnay’s throne today

• What is new?

• Salute our world class Chardonnays

Why me?

• Long history of working with premium Chardonnay vineyards with a focus on improving wine quality

• Done the yards in many regions here and in• Done the yards in many regions here and in Australia.

Planted area: Then & Now

• Over last 20 years the area planted to Chardonnay in New Zealand has increased from 1,232 ha to 3,121 ha

• Most of growth up to the late 90s.


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Chardonnay Planted Area (ha):Then & Now

3,000

3,500

4,000

4,500

Chardonnay Area (ha)

0

500

1,000

1,500

2,000

2,500

1991 1996 2001 2006

Chardonnay Area (ha)


• Chardonnay a dominant variety in North Island Regions other than Martinborough

lb h• Minor variety in Marlborough

• Split in area between Gisborne/Hawke’s Bay/Marlborough is similar


• Chardonnay a minnow compared to Sauvignon blanc

I 2001 Ch d d S i bl b– In 2001 Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc about the same total area

– 2012 Chardonnay less than a sixth of the Sauvignon blanc total area (ha)


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Chardonnay Production (tonnes):Then & Now

• Chardonnay about 28,000 tonnes annual production over the last 10 years

“ l l ” ld f• “Volatile” yield swings from 15,500 tonnes in 2013 through to 38,800 tonnes in 2007.

– Set and bunch weights

– Frost damage

Chardonnay Production (tonnes):Then & Now

30,000

35,000

40,000

45,000

Chardonnay Tonnes

0

5,000

10,000

15,000

20,000

25,000

1991 1996 2001 2006 2011

Chardonnay Tonnes

Then & Now: Comparisons

Attribute Then Now

Site InfluenceNot an issue:

More demanding:No more thanSite Influence

Strong and ProductiveNo more than moderate growth

Clonal Choice 4, 5,6 and Mendoza 95, 15, Mendoza

Rootstock SO4/5C 101‐15, 3309


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Attribute Then Now

Yield Targets More the better Yield: Quality ImportantYield Targets More the better Yield: Quality Important

Bunch Thinning Never Yes for quality goals

Shoot Thinning No Yes: Premium blocks


Attribute Then Now

Trellis A fence: Sylvoz VSPTrellis A fence: Sylvoz VSP

Attitude Simple Demanding

Style development Winemaker lead Market lead

Quality Drivers We Can Influence:Uniformity

• Uniformity– Like with Pinot noir this is very important

– Manage the vines and the inputs to improve g p puniformity in vine growth and berry development;

• Pruning

• Soil work

• Irrigation

• Bunch thinning

• Selective harvest


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Quality Factors We can Influence:Grape Exposure

• Wide ranging debate and vine treatments differ greatly

Full sun?– Full sun?

– Partial exposure?

– No exposure?

• Fruit quality vs. Disease management

Leaf plucking

• Total leaf removal from bunch zone not always the best option.

• Trade‐offs:

P i i– Positive

• Disease prevention

– Negative

• Phenolics.

• Risk of over‐exposure.

Leaf plucking

• Play it safe:

– Remove internal leaves

– Retain an “overhang”g

– Early rather than late in season

– Limit exposure to afternoon sun


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Yield

• Yield management makes a large difference to the mouth feel of Chardonnay

• Know your yield targety y g

Evaluate the “target yield”

• Target yield established by trial and error for the wine style required

• Crop thinning likely to improve wine quality• No universal figure for target yield:

– Site– Clone– Wine style

• Timing for adjustment is critical– “last day of thinning the first day of veraison”– Mechanical for commercial styles?

• Bunch removal the best approach

Avoid water stress

• Severe water stress results in loss of freshness and purity of flavour.

• Defoliation signifies water stress too severe and quality being lostand quality being lost

• Key: maintain leaf function up to harvest

– Post‐veraison water stress not ideal

– Canopies should look fresh


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Conclusion: Saluting the Queen

• Chardonnay grape production is demanding:

– Deal to the detail

– No room to relax

• Strive for uniformity

• Manage cropload

• Avoid water stress

Conclusion: Saluting the Queen

• Design vine and grape management to match desired wine style

• Chardonnay does sit well on the Throne as the Queen of grape varieties –Queen of grape varieties –– Regal

– Subtle with backbone

– But very demanding

– Looks better with a bit of make‐up

Chardonnay: which queen?


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G r o w i n g C h a r d o n n a y : N o w a n d i n t o t h e F u t u r eS t u a r t D u d l e y, V i l l a Ma r i a N e w Z e a l a n d

C h a r d o n n a y : N o w a n d i n t o t h e F u t u r e

Outline

» Introduction

» The Now

» Current Growing Strategies

» Vineyard examples» Vineyard examples

» The Future

» Canopy/trellis decisions

» Harvesting technology

» Replacement of the hand?

» Conclusion


Pleased to introduce NZ Chardonnay

» Personality

» Has a need for personal space

» Known to make a scene

» Sometimes bubbly, sometimes flatflat.

» Likes:

» Cold nights

» Warm days

» A gentle hand

» Dislikes

» Cramped spaces

» Moisture and humidity

A happy bunch

Self Destruction

Ready for the next step


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2


A few questions

» What are we trying to achieve?

» The indecisive winemaker

» Is there a typical style?

?» Are we achieving it?

» Are we hitting the targets: yield/quality?

» Where do we want to go?

» Quality, quality , quality?

» Tonnes, tonnes, tonnes?


Current Growing Strategies

» Pruning Strategies:

» Pruning to targets

» Spurs vs Canesp

» Canopy/yield Management:

» The need to breathe, fruit positioning

» Timing the work


Current Growing Strategies

» Nutrition/Irrigation:

» Keep happy but not too happy

» Our style does not stress

» Additional calcium?

» Picking Decision:

» Brix vs. Botrytis, regional variation

» Harvesting: Sacrifices made

» Hand Picking vs Machine


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Ta y l o r s P a s s V i n e ya r d : Awa t e r e , Ma r l b o r o u g h

Ta y l o r s P a s s V i n e ya r d

» Very stony alluvial soils over sandstone

» Warm site but cold nights

» Clone 95 on 101-14

» Now 100% spur pruned: 10-12 spur positions/vine

» Yield targets 7t/ha (3kg/vine).

» Thinning pre-veraison, predominantly only de-clumping

» Hand leaf plucked exposing 60% east, 40% west

» 100% hand picked.

» Picking decision typically based on flavour/acid.


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Mc D i a r m i d H i l l V i n e ya r d : P a t u t a h i , G i s b o u r n e

Mc D i a r m i d H i l l V i n e ya r d : P a t u t a h i , G i s b o u r n e

» Light pumice soils

» Coolest of our Gisbourne sites

» Mendoza and Cl 15

» 2 cane VSP

» Yield targets 8t/ha (2.5kg/vine)

» All blocks have downward shoots removed as well as a light head gthin

» Bunch thinning on 2 cane involves removal of third bunches and any bunches that are touching.

» Sheep leaf plucked at PBC exposing 80%+ of the fruit

» Reserve is 100% hand picked.

» Mendoza is picked at the first sign of rot.

» Reserve sometimes picked from multiple sites picking out the cleanest fruit.

K e l t e r n V i n e ya r d : H a wk e s B a y


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K e l t e r n V i n e ya r d : Ma r a e k a k a h o H a wk e s B a y

» On Takapau silt loam

» Inland site, has warm days and cool nights

» Clones 95 and 15 on 101-14 and SM

» Spur pruned, unilateral cordon. ( 14-16 x 2 bud spurs). Future plan is to cane prune

» Yields targets 7t/ha (3kg/vine)

» Canopy management

» Shoot thinned early

» Mechanically leaf plucked with Pellenc leaf-plucker

» Hand plucked from the morning sun side (east) of the canopy only – 1 pass. Follow-up hand leaf pluck if required later in the season.

» De-clump as required with second-set and late set fruit removed

» Cut back/switch off water 2 weeks prior to harvest to develop concentration


The Future


» Replacement of the hand?

» Leaf Plucking:

» Collard: can be uneven, good for internal removal, fruit damage issues

» Sheep: Difficult to control level of removal

» Hand: Can be difficult to control, requires good supervision

» Future: Integration of aerial or ground mapping with mechanised leaf plucking?


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Replacement of the hand?

» Harvesting

» Standard Machine:

» Cannot account for in field variabity

» Increase phenolics/more macerationp

» Picks 100% of the fruit + MOG

» 2nd set, diseased bunches

» Some MOG can help with pressing

» Hand

» Only way to retain full bunches

» As selective as the quality control put in place

» Can cool fruit overnight

» Lower Solids- Press to barrel

» Allows for reduced use of Sulphur


» Selective Machine Harvesting


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Future Directions

» What does the market want

» Affordable good quality Chardonnay. Currently very little price difference between Chardonnay and the other white wines on the same tier/label, and unlikely for this to change.

» Commercial style has to be linked to consumer preference.

» There is always will be a place for small volumes of high end wine. Increasing the volumes here is the challenge.

» What does the Vineyard/Wine company owner want

» Sustained Profitability

» Produce good wine


Future Directions: Viticulture

» Lower Tier Chardonnay

» Move to lower value, lower risk, higher potential sites

» Move to less disease prone but consistent yielding clonesbut consistent yielding clones (away from 15 and MZ)

» Move to higher density plantings (away from 3m rows) as land prices rise

» Possible moves to split canopy systems?

» Increased mechanisation /use of technology

Changes to the training system: Scott Henry



» Higher Tier Chardonnay

» Move to higher density plantings

» Lowering of yield does always mean better quality

» New plantings of high wine quality clones and rootstock p g g q ycombinations

» Continued reliance on manual work (hand plucking, harvesting etc)

» Emergence of sub-regional styles, which requires consumer awareness.


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» Improvement in quality of Chardonnay.

» Older vines: Typicity

» Better techniques (winery/vineyard)

» Better mechanical technology

» Improved disease management through practices and modelling systems


Conclusions

» Chardonnay requires a level of attention to get through in NZ conditions

» There does not appear to be a regional style, driven from the vineyard

» Management of disease is often the driving factor

» Mechanisation has come a long way and will continue to improve the quality of Chardonnay

» There is still no tool that can replace the hand

» The industry is still so very young so the best is yet to come.


Acknowledgements

» The team at Villa Maria

» Lance Nuttal (TracMap)

» Craig Thompson for the photos

» NZSVO


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ChardonnayClones

New Zealand

Ni k H ki

NZSVO Marlborough 2013

Nick Hoskins, Riversun

French Growers “Selection Massale” positive mass selection

A clone is from a single mother vine, proven to have measurable differences

M l l k b U i i i R h i i i

Development of clones

Most clonal work by Universities or Research institutions

ENTAV “Etablissement National Technique pour l’ ameleration de la Viticulture”

Selecting clones to improve poor yields mostly due to the spread of fanleaf virus

Excellent gene pool of old vine material to start their clonal selection process

France

These New ENTAV clones certified in 1971 and serious planting started around 1976


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Institut Français de la Vigne et du VinInstitut Français de la Vigne et du Vin

100000120000140000160000180000 ha

A rich and unique gene pool !

Source of diversity

Age of French vineyard - 1998

020000400006000080000

0 à 4

10 à 14

20 à 24

30 à 34

40 à 44

50 à 54

60 à 64

70 à 74

80 à 84

90 et +

years

Yield also an issue - as low as 1.25tonne per Ha mostly due to leafroll virus

Clonal selection started with Dr Harold Olmo in the late 50’s at FPMS (Foundation Plant Material Services) at UCD (University of California Davis)

Heat treatment (thermo-therapy) to remove viruses

USA California

Dr Olmo selected candidate clones from the Wente vineyard

Chardonnay Clonal Selection

Meursault Charles Wentmore 1882

Wente Vineyard Livermore Valley

Central coast USA

Stony Hill Vineyards Napa McCrea’s 1948

Louis Martini Vineyard

Napa

Montpellier Wente Family 1912

FPMS Collected by Dr Harold Olmo and heat treated

at FPMS

Long Island Vineyard New York (Old Wente)

UCD 4 FPMS 4 Heat Treated 90 Days

UCD 6 FPMS 6 Heat treated 164 days

UCD 5 FPMS 5 Heat

Treated 90 days

Australia UCD 6Also known as I1OV1

New Zealand UCD6 Imported Delegat’s 1982


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Productive clones with good acidity and fruity flavours for sparkling wines

Medium productivity and aromatic clones for un-oaked chardonnay

Lower productivity and structure and complexity for premium wines

Clones for wine styles

Mendoza• Imported from CSIRO Australia in

1971(D Sheat)

• Very important clone for New Zealand Chardonnay

• Positive for Leafroll virus

• Low crops of small hen and chicken bunches

• Good fruit characters structure and complexity

2/23• Imported from Switzerland 1978

(F Berrysmith)

• Consistent moderate to large crops

• Relatively tight bunches

• Making good wine in Martinborough


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UCD 6

• Imported from Australia 1982 (Delegats)

• Consistent moderate to large crops

• Relatively tight bunches

• Can lack intensity

UCD 15• Imported from USA UCD in 1985

(R Smart-NZGVIG)

• Moderate crops, loose bunches with some hen and chicken

• Less susceptible to botrytisp y

• Lacks the intensity of Mendoza

B 95• Imported from Beaune France 1988

(A Clarke NZGVIG)

• Big crops, quite large bunches

• Rather tight bunches that are susceptible to botrytis

• Capable of producing excellent wines with weight and complexity


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ENTAV-INRA® 121• Imported from France ENTAV-

INRA® 2005 (Riversun)

• Moderate crops

• Relatively tight bunches, moderately susceptible to botrytis

• Good acidity and fruit flavours

• Suitable for sparkling as well as table wines



• Moderate crops

• Relatively open bunches, slightly earlier harvest

• Higher sugar, intense fruit and good acidity

• Complex and weighty wines



• Moderate crops

• Moderate to large bunches with some susceptibility to botrytis

• Intense and distinctive Muscat aroma

• Can add an aromatic lift to a blend


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• Low yielding

• Medium to small open bunches with small berries

• Low susceptibility to botrytis

• Wines?

• Soils• Climate• Canopy Management

Differing opinions on the performance of various clones,

Many variables

• Yield• Irrigation• Nutrition• Winemaking

variables

Thanks to Geoff Thorpe, Janey

Fisher, the Riversun teamand

James Hillard from Indevin


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MAKING CHARDONNAY IN AUSTRALIA AND OREGON.

Brian Croser

August 2013.

Brian Croser

August 2013.


Californian Influences On Australia And Oregon.

• Supply of clones.(OF, Mendoza, I10V1, 108, Draper Ranch, Martini)

• Oak fermentation, lees stirring, mlf, (Chalone/Graff, Mondavi)

• Amerine/Winkler heat summation climatic regions.

• Olmo in Western Australia in 1955 (Mt. Barker/ Margaret River).

• Robert Mondavi at Leeuwin in the late 1970’s.

• Robert Mondavi relationship with Rosemount late 1990’s.



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OVERARCHING PHILOSOPHY.

“The dominant influence on the quality and style of wine produced is the terroir of the vineyards from which the grapes are

d d ”produced.”

Why spend the money purchasing expensive land, planting intensively at great capital cost, employing expensive hand labour and putting up with the inconsistent yields of inclement climates unless this was so and that the qualities conferred can be reflected in price?


Fundamental Winemaking Questions.

• What have we paid for from the vineyard?

• How do we make the most of what we have paid for?

CHARDONNAY VARIETAL QUALITIES.

As a grape and juice Chardonnay delivers a lot.• Chardonnay delivers moderate to high juice sugar concentrations

early in the season with moderate acid at low pH• Chardonnay has a higher total extract and is higher in phenol

potential, yeast available nitrogen (YAN), and the potential to form esters, higher alcohols and fatty acids.

• Chardonnay juice seems especially rich in norisoprenoidalbreakdown products of carotene and chlorophyll.

• Unwooded Chardonnay had more cis-oak lactone, vanillin, the guaiacols and phenols than Riesling wines.

• Chardonnay juice and wine doesn’t produce more of the grape derived monoterpenes, or thiol containing organic aromatic compounds so important to Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc but it does contain some of each.


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• From the cool to the warm climate expression, the aromatics and flavours of Chardonnay are as follows:

Cucumber, celery, mineral, flint, green apple, grapefruit, citrus, lime, perfumed, honey, apple, nectarine, white peach, pineapple, peach, melon, mango, quince, fig, hazelnut, chestnut, tobacco. (Richard Gawell)(Richard Gawell).

• The cool end of the description spectrum applies to fruit that is more shaded and the warm end to more exposed fruit.

• The cool end descriptors are more suited to sparkling wine aromas and flavours and the warm end to complex table wine.


• There is also the positive negative that Chardonnay wines do not offer the simple intensity of herbaceous and green fruit characters of Sauvignon Blanc or the slightly oily and floral qualities of Riesling.

• In the end it may be Chardonnay’s genetic strength that it offers a little of everything and not much of anything providing ultimate complexitycomplexity.

• Chardonnay provides a white wine texture, mouth-feel, viscosity, weight, substance; whatever you wish to call it, beyond other white varieties.

• Chardonnay is not a blank canvas upon which the fermentation odors and oak treatments are painted. It has its own very distinct and unique varietal qualities and that’s why we grow so much of it.

CHARDONNAY AND PHENOLS.

PHENOLS IN JUICE EXTRACTION.

Flavonoids in skins seeds and stalks

• can be avoided by must chilling, no SO2 contact and soft pressing.

Non-flavonoids-hydroxcinnamic acids, in juice and pulp

• Cannot be avoided,

• Can be reduced/eliminated by poly phenol oxidase (PPO) activity, by accidental O2 or hyperoxidation,

• Can be trapped by chilling or SO2 deactivation of PPO.

• Can be oxidised to quinones.

• Quinones react with glutathione to form Grape Reduction Product (GRP)


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CHARDONNAY HARVEST.

CHARDONNAY HARVEST.

AY

HA

RV

ES

T.C

HA

RD

ON

NA


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CHARDONNAY CRUSHING, CHILLING AND PRESSING.

CHARDONNAY AND GLUTATHIONE.

• Role of phenols in Chardonnay mouth feel and flavour?

• Phenols/Quinone formation key to Premature Oxidation (premox).

• Glutathione (most powerful antioxidant) capable of reversing quinone formation.

• Glutathione in wine in proportion to YAN in grapes and juice.

• Lees contact/yeast autolysis essential for release of glutathione into wine.

CHARDONNAY, PIVOTAL ROLE OF NITROGEN.

• Glutathione content of wine directly proportional to juice YAN.

• Untypical Ageing (UTA), due to formation of aminoacetophenone

(AAP) (moth balls, wet wool) breakdown product of auxin, indole

acetic acid (IAA), in proportion to N fertilisation.

• AWRI, “Nitrogen management is critical for wine flavour and style.”Low N status juices - more higher alcohols (masking fruity aromas)

- more H2S and mercaptans.

Wines less fruity, more complex.

Moderate N status and moderate addition of DAP to low N status juices

- more fatty acid ethyl esters

- more varietal compounds, monoterpenes and isoprenoids.

- less higher alcohols

- less acetic acid and ethyl acetate

Wines more fruity and varietal.

High N status juices - more acetic acid and ethyl acetate.


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CHARDONNAY “Next Gen” or Moral Panic.

Harnessing AWRI’s yeast and bacterial research to shape “ next gen” Chardonnay-Parts 1 and 2.

“It’s astounding that Chardonnay has in recent years become relatively unpopular”.

“Next-gen” Chardonnays

“Fresher, lighter bodied, less oaky, and more textured, the Chardonnays now entering the market are higher in complexity and “minerality” with hints of so-called “struck-match-flint” attributes.”

“NEXT GEN” CHARDONNAY.“WORD-CLOUD”? (my first).

CHARDONNAY: WILD, NATURAL AND ACCIDENTAL YEASTS.


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CHARDONNAY: UNCONVENTIONAL

YEASTS.

CHARDONNAY AND S. bayanus YEAST

CHARDONNAY: DEATH AND RESURRECTION.

Kongsgaard Chardonnay - Napa Valley.

• Kongsgaard relies on the quality of low crop, fully ripe, fully exposed fruit from selected sites upon which to wrought his “death and resurrection” approach.

• After a small addition of SO2 (30ppm) the wine is allowed to ferment with the accidental yeast flora and to sit in barrique for nearly twowith the accidental yeast flora and to sit in barrique for nearly two years with occasional stirring. After the first year the wine is “dull and murky” and smelling of “that four in the morning bakery smell.”

• Then in the course of the second year “the wine bounces back-turning a glinting yellow, shedding its yeasty character, revealing its true power.”

• Here is a demonstration of the role of time and oxygen getting rid of phenols and of the reducing effect of lees and yeast autolysis to restore freshness.


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CHARDONNAY: MAKING ISSUESFRUIT & JUICE.

• How much grape exposure to obtain higher norisoprenoids and lower malic acids and green flavours?

– Open canopy, able to see every bunch in dappled or full light.

• What ripeness for harvest?– For sparkling wine usually 19 to 21 Brix, total acid 10 to 12 gpl, pH 2.9 to 3.0 and

flavours not fully developed to the ripe stage but no green characters. y p p g g

– For table wine usually 22.5 to 23.5 Brix, total acid 6 to 9 gpl, pH 3.0 to 3.15, malicacid less than 2gpl and fully ripe fruit flavours.

• Hand harvest or machine? – For both table and sparkling wine hand harvested.

• Fruit chilling prior to processing or not?– For sparkling whole fruit chilling in 400 kilogram slotted bins to less than 5 C

before whole fruit pressing.

– For table wine de-stem and crush then must chill to less than 5C. No SO2 addition to either table or sparkling.

CHARDONNAY: MAKING ISSUESFRUIT & JUICE.

• What pressing regime?– Wilmess tank press filled in both cases before draining and pressing starts.

Usually only 4 to 5 tonnes of crushed and chilled fruit per press load, 20 to 30 minute filling time. Lots of rolling and draining and press only to 0.7 bar for table wine.

• SO2 addition timing and extent?– 50 ppm SO2 at the juice tray for table wine and nothing for sparkling wine.

– N2 sparge juices to tank to eliminate O2.

• Juice additions and settling time?– No enzymes, in hot years judicious tartaric acid addition and settling time at less

than 5C for about a week.

• Racking clarity? – For both sparkling and table wine take all of the light lees to a racked juice

turbidity of NTU 150 to 250 or 0.3 to 0.5% solids by volume.

CHARDONNAY: MAKING ISSUES FERMENTATION AND AGEING.

• Pre-fermentation additions?– 100 ppm DAP, 0.5 gpl bentonite, wet yeast culture of choice (usually QA23 or

similar) at 3% with 300 million cells/ml, T14W Lactobacillus culture at 1.5%.

• Fermentation vessels and temperature?– Gravitate immediately to barriques (mostly Vosges oak) to allow to warm and

begin fermentation always maintaining temperature at less than 20C.

– Sparkling wine in old oak, nothing younger than 5 years.

– Table wine Chardonnay in 2 use, 1 use and new barriques, about a third each.

• Fermentation, lees time and stirring or not? – Fermentation, usually about 2 weeks to dryness, then allowed to sit on lees with

topping until MLF is complete in spring.

– No lees stirring.

• Post fermentation treatments. – After MLF, rack to tank with lees.

– For sparkling wine begin blending and preparation for tiraging.

– For table wine add SO2 to 30ppm free, usually to 80ppm total and return to barrique.


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CHARDONNAY: MAKING ISSUES FERMENTATION AND AGEING.

• Prebottling treatments.– Table wine clear racked from barrique to tank in January (10 months in barrique),

adjust SO2 to 30ppm free, casein fine at 150ppm.

– After 2 to 3 weeks settling at 10C clear rack and cross flow filter to 0.45 micron before bottling.

• Cork or screw cap?– Screw cap but not without a fight.

CHARDONNAY: FINALLY.

To reiterate the philosophy that defines this winegrowing pathway,

“The dominant influence on the quality and style of wine produced is the terroir of the vineyards from which the grapes are produced.”

• Vineyard N-adequate YAN.

Si ifi t b h• Significant bunch exposure

• Avoid flavonoid extraction-retain non flavonoids.

• Reliable yeast accenting fruit.

• MLF strain low aroma influence

• Tight grain Vosges oak-low char

• 10 months on lees

• Casein fining before bottle


MAKING CHARDONNAY IN AUSTRALIA AND OREGON. BRIAN CROSER JULY 2013.

Introduction: The Californian Influence. The Californian Chardonnay experience beginning in the 1960’s had a huge influence on the slightly later but parallel development of the Chardonnay juggernaut in Australia. California provided Australia with nearly all of its early Chardonnay clones. California also pioneered the learning curve for fine wine Chardonnay by moving from oak maturation of steel fermented wine to fermenting in oak, to malo-lactic fermentation in oak, accidental (aka natural) yeast fermentation, lees stirring and bottling without fining or filtration. This pathway to ever increasing complexity began with Dick Graff in California and the Chalone barrique fermented Chardonnays of the late 1960’s and was given momentum by Robert Mondavi and his restless quest for more complex wines through the 1970’s. The influence of the Winkler GDD classification of regions has been the measuring stick of Australia’s quest for more appropriate cool terroirs for Chardonnay beginning with Professor Olmo from UC Davis in Western Australia in 1955. Professor Olmo’s influence in Western Australia in the 1950’s led to the identification of Mount Barker as a new cool climate Australian wine terroir and influenced by Olmo, John Gladstones defined the winegrowing qualities of Margaret River. Robert Mondavi and his son Tim were directly involved in the establishment of Leeuwin Estate in Margaret River and most particularly in the methodology for producing a complex oak fermented Chardonnay that has stood that estate in such good stead for nearly 4 decades. It is no accident that California and Australia are the two wine producing countries where Chardonnay dominates white wine production at more than 17% of total red and white varieties planted area in each. Thank you California. The much smaller Chardonnay journey in Oregon also owes its clones, rootstocks and making techniques to the precedent established down the coast in California. Again thank you California. Petaluma and Argyle. The winemaking approach for both table wine and sparkling wine at Petaluma in the Piccadilly Valley and Argyle in the Willamette Valley are based on the same philosophy and technology. One grew out of the other in the mid 1980’s. Since 2002 there may have been some divergence and that won’t be explored in this paper. The core of the winemaking philosophy is that, “The dominant influence on the quality and style of wine produced is the terroir of the vineyards from which the grapes are produced.” That is given that both vineyard and winery management are competent and protective or enhancing of those terroir qualities. Why spend the money purchasing expensive land, planting intensively at great capital cost, employing expensive hand labour and putting up with the inconsistent yields of inclement climates unless this was so and that the qualities conferred can be reflected in price? The fundamental winemaking questions then become

What have we paid for from the vineyard?


How do we make the most of what we have paid for? What we pay for. As a grape and juice Chardonnay delivers a lot. Grown in the right terroir Chardonnay delivers moderate to high juice sugar concentrations early in the season with moderate acid at low pH. In marginal climatic regions with the threat of early rain and cold temperature onset, these are big varietal advantages. It is difficult to pin down academic research support for what I am about to say but having read as many papers as I could find on Chardonnay grape, juice and wine composition and combining these with empirical experience, I would contend that Chardonnay has a higher total extract and is higher in phenol potential, yeast available nitrogen (YAN), and the potential to form esters, higher alcohols, fatty acids and maybe norisoprenoid precursors than other white varieties grown in the same circumstances. I put that out there as a challenge to prove me wrong. There is plenty of evidence that Chardonnay juice and wine doesn’t produce more of the grape derived monoterpenes, or sulph-hydral containing organic aromatic compounds so important to Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc but it does contain some of each. Ref 1. Chardonnay juice seems especially rich in norisoprenoidal breakdown products of carotene and chlorophyll. Refs 2 and 3. Unwooded Chardonnay had more cis-oak lactone, vanillin, the guaiacols and phenols than Riesling wines. These are grape component precursor derived aromatics that are augmented by time in oak. Ref 1. We all know there exists definitive Chardonnay varietal wine character that doesn’t just relate to the ubiquitous range of fermentation derived esters or sulph-hydral compounds and that the Chardonnay grape expression depends on terroir and vintage. From the cool to the warm climate expression from Richard Gawel, the aromatics and flavours of Chardonnay are as follows: Cucumber, celery, mineral, flint, green apple, grapefruit, citrus, lime, perfumed, honey, apple, nectarine, white peach, pineapple, peach, melon, mango, quince, fig, hazelnut, chestnut, tobacco. Ref 4. This list contains some contentious descriptors and no doubt some can be argued out and others added but I think it is relevant. As grape-grower/winemakers we also know that the cool end of the description spectrum applies to fruit that is more shaded and the warm end to more exposed fruit. I would contend the cool end descriptors are more suited to sparkling wine aromas and flavours and the warm end to complex table wine. There are many positives that Chardonnay grape and fruit composition offers to the aroma and flavour potential of the wines made from the variety. There is also the positive negative that Chardonnay wines do not offer the simple intensity of herbaceous and green fruit characters of Sauvignon Blanc or the slightly oily and floral qualities of Riesling. In the end it may be Chardonnay’s genetic strength that it offers a little of everything and not much of anything providing ultimate complexity. However Chardonnay’s qualities as a grape confers uniqueness on its wines beyond the aromas and flavours. Chardonnay provides a white wine texture, mouth-feel, viscosity, weight, substance; whatever you wish to call it, beyond other white varieties. It is true that juice extraction and winemaking techniques mightily affect the quantities and qualities of phenols in white wine and Chardonnay is generally made


with more extractive processing than the delicate, varietally aromatic and more oxygen vulnerable varieties. On top of that we ferment Chardonnay in oak and impose malo-lactic fermentation and lees contact to increase the range of phenol related aromatics and increase the flavour complexity and weight of the wine. Regardless Chardonnay fermented simply in stainless steel in a comparable way to Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling still has more weight and mouth-feel. Conversely Sauvignon Blanc and even Riesling fermented in oak with lees contact are more complex and weightier than the simple steel versions but the problem is always having enough varietal palate weight and aromatic complexity to match the phenolic influence of the oak in a way that Chardonnay effortlessly does. There are of course successful examples but they are not the rule. Chardonnay is not a blank canvas upon which the fermentation odours and oak treatments are painted. It has its own very distinct and unique varietal qualities and that’s why we grow so much of it. How do we make the most of what we pay for? Phenol Management. Let’s begin with juice extraction. Juice extraction may well be the deciding factor in whether or not a Chardonnay wine suffers premature oxidation in bottle or not. The chemistry of white wine phenol extraction is well known from the seminal research of Dave Ramey et al at Simi in California in 1986 and the many papers written on hyperoxidation of must. Ref 5. We all know to avoid the extraction of the flavonoid phenols which have a bitter taste, make the wine mouth-feel and flavour “phenolic” but also are very active substrates for the formation of the quinones and associated oxidation products which so detrimentally affect white wine colour aroma and flavour. The flavonoids are in the seeds, skins and stalks and can be avoided most effectively by extraction of juice from chilled must and secondly by avoiding SO2 contact with these grape components and by avoiding hard pressing. However the non-flavonoid phenols, mainly hydroxy-cinnamic acids are impossible to avoid, as they are a component of the grape pulp and juice. These also have the oxidative propensity to form quinones and polymerise to the brown pigments and associated oxidized wine characters. The non-flavonoid phenols can be removed completely by the action of polyphenol oxidase enzyme (PPO) in the unsulphited, unchilled must with the judicious addition of oxygen and there are varying reports on the effect of this hyperoxidation on the varietal character and quality of the wines produced this way. Refs 6,7 and 8. SO2 addition to the juice effectively inhibits the PPO enzyme as does must chilling. This creates the dilemma at the press of to chill to avoid extraction of flavonoid phenols but at the cost of protecting and retaining the non-flavonoid phenols. This is not necessarily a detriment if the unoxidised non-flavonoid phenols are an important contributor to Chardonnay mouth feel. Chilling helps overcome the potential oxidation problems in the press inherent in not adding SO2 until the juice is separated from the skins. How then to avoid the formation of quinones and oxidized by-products in juice and wine? N2 sparing of the chilled juice in tank removes the O2 before it can react and then it is simply a matter of keeping juice, fermenting wine and finished wine away from oxygen. We all know the problems with this seemingly simple solution.


The Role of Glutathione. Enter the ubiquitous tripeptide glutathione (GSH), which exists in relatively high concentration in grape and yeast, the most powerful antioxidant in the mix. There is good evidence that this potent natural antioxidant ends up in the wine in proportion to the amount of Yeast Available Nitrogen (YAN) in the grape and juice. The journey in between juice and wine is less predictable as GSH concentration in the grape asymptotes at about 16Brix and then decreases as the GSH reacts with quinones formed during juice extraction to form the reduced conjugate Grape Reduction Product (GRP). The yeast assimilates most of the GSH during fermentation but then gives it back to the finishing wine at the end of fermentation and during contact between the yeast lees and the wine. Refs 9 and 10. It is my forming view that this extremely potent antioxidant and quinone reverser, plays an important role in the prevention of premature oxidation in bottle and that the reduction in nitrogen status of vineyard soils as a reaction to the excesses of the post war years of viticulture may have a role in the prevalence of premature oxidation in bottle. Fermentation, the Role of Nitrogen, Yeast Strain and Fermentation Conditions. The AWRI is one of if not the world’s greatest oenological research institutions. It has also become a marketing tool for the so-called “next gen” Chardonnay. To quote some of the two papers by Christopher Curtin et al. “Harnessing AWRI’s yeast and bacterial research to shape “next-gen” Chardonnay”-Parts 1 and 2, “It is astounding” that Chardonnay “has in recent years, become relatively unpopular”, and that the answer to this averred unpopularity is next “gen-chardonnays”, “Fresher, lighter bodied, less oaky, and more textured, the Chardonnays now entering the market are higher in complexity and “minerality” with hints of so-called “struck-match-flint” attributes.” Ref 11. There seem to be some contradictory qualities within this description of “next-gen” Chardonnay. The secret to producing wines of this style are revealed in these two papers and the associated “word-cloud”, my first experience with one, where complexity is writ large followed by minerality and texture then struck-match-flint and finally the appearance of a grape related term in small writing, fruit intensity and in very small letters dry peach. Contrary to the lead assertion, Chardonnay sales and plantings are increasing, albeit not at the same rate as the 90’s. Ref 14.I would postulate Chardonnay’s continued popularity is not because it is being harvested before full flavour maturity at higher natural acids from more shaded fruit, or because malo-lactic has been avoided and the oak regime has much less new oak and that nitrogen deficient musts and accidental yeasts are producing match-struck-flint sulphide compounds which become defining in the aroma and flavour of the wines. This is not grape quality derived complexity. It is highly transferable microbiological complexity so why bother with expensive distinctive terroir vineyards? The minerality and lighter bodies of these wines made from premature grapes is more typical of Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling and are less textured than wines made from fully ripe Chardonnay grapes. We are in the middle of a “moral panic” about Chardonnay and the answer to moral panic is always irrational. The reality is that Chardonnay has wonderful ripe fruit varietal attributes that need to be protected and enhanced by good viticulture and


empathetic winemaking. Chardonnay does not need the artifacts of green fruit leanness and yeast sulphides as the secrets to reinvention. In defense of the two AWRI papers and another by Maurizio Ugliano et al. titled “Nitrogen management is critical for wine flavour and style.“, the AWRI does distinguish itself with some very practical findings about the influence of yeast strains and exogenous nitrogen on the fermentation characters of Chardonnay wines in particular. Ref 12. It is found that low nitrogen status juices produce more higher-alcohols, which in low concentration increase complexity but at higher concentrations mask the fruity odours of grape and fermentation. Moderate levels of added DAP increase production of fatty acid ethyl esters which are fruity and decrease production of acetic acid and ethyl acetate. High additions of DAP produce excess ethyl acetate which is detrimental to aroma quality. Low nitrogen juices produce more H2S and mercaptans, maybe an advantage in “next-gen” Chardonnay? Moderate DAP addition was also found to produce “wines with the highest concentration of varietal compounds, including free monoterpenes and norisoprenoids. All fingers point to adequate juice YAN and moderate additions of DAP to low nitrogen status juices to produce the cleanest, fruitiest wines. Ref 13. Finally the AWRI has aroma profiled “”wild” and “non conventional yeasts””. Candida species contribute to wines at higher glycerol and lower alcohol. “Wild yeast” fermentations produce distinctive volatile aroma profiles compared to Saccharomyces cerevisiae inoculated fermentations, including more sulphides, more acetic acid and ethyl acetate and more cooked apricot characters. Saccharomyces bayanus contributes more rose and banana characters. As would be expected there is a very wide diversity of volatiles produced by non-Saccharomyces and S. bayanus yeasts that are different from one another and from Saccharomyces cerevisiae but in summary they contribute to non fruity complexity more than fruity and there is some thought they contribute to greater mouth-feel compared to conventional S. cerevisiae strains. Ref 11. Chardonnay making is so complex my brain hurts. The Role of Time on Lees (sur lies). For both table and sparkling wine made from Chardonnay it is standard practice to leave the maturing wine on lees in the oak container in which it is fermented until the wine is ready for bottling or blending and tirage. Usually the length of time on lees is less than 12 months but more than 6 months and during this time the lees can be stirred (battonage) more or less frequently or not at all. The autolysis of the yeast cells helps keep the wine in reduced condition and releases texture improving compounds such as mannoprotiens and other polysaccharides and protiens. Ref 15. The tripeptide glutathione is also released in significant quantities in proportion to the original juice YAN. The strong reducing properties of glutathione and its ability to prevent quinone browning and associated oxidized aromas have already been discussed. This brings into focus a particular type of Chardonnay winemaking technique. Borrowing the term from the Californian winemaker John Kongsgaard quoted in a recent article in the San Francisco Chronicle, this technique can be described as the “death and resurrection approach”. After a small addition of SO2 (30ppm) the wine is allowed to ferment with the accidental yeast flora and to sit in barrique for nearly two years with occasional


stirring. After the first year the wine is “dull and murky” and smelling of “that four in the morning bakery smell.” Then in the course of the second year “the wine bounces back-turning a glinting yellow, shedding its yeasty character, revealing its true power.” Here is a demonstration of the role of time and oxygen getting rid of phenols and of the reducing effect of lees and yeast autolysis to restore freshness. Kongsgaard does make the point that he relies on the quality of low crop, fully ripe, fully exposed fruit from selected sites upon which to wrought his “death and resurrection” approach. Ref 16. The role of yeast lees and barrel age in the formation of the “curry powder” aroma of the oxidation product sotolon was discussed in a recent paper. Again yeast lees protected against the formation of this aroma and new barrels enhanced its production. Sotolon was also seen to accumulate in white wine in bottle by oxygen permeation of the cork. Ref 17. Issues of Consideration.

1. How much grape exposure to obtain higher norisoprenoids and lower malic acids and green flavours? –Open canopy, able to see every bunch in dappled or full light.

2. What ripeness for harvest? –For sparkling wine usually 19 to 21 Brix, total acid 10 to 12 gpl, pH 2.9 to 3.0 and flavours not fully developed to the ripe stage but no green characters. For table wine usually 22.5 to 23.5 Brix, total acid 6 to 9 gpl, pH 3.0 to 3.15, malic acid less than 2gpl and fully ripe fruit flavours.

3. Hand harvest or machine? –For both table and sparkling wine hand harvested. 4. Fruit chilling prior to processing or not? –For sparkling whole fruit chilling in

400 kilogram slotted bins to less than 5 C before whole fruit pressing. For table

wine de-stem and crush then must chill to less than 5C. No SO2 addition to either table or sparkling.

5. What pressing regime? –Wilmess tank press filled in both cases before draining and pressing starts. Usually only 4 to 5 tonnes of crushed and chilled fruit per press load, 20 to 30 minute filling time. Lots of rolling and draining and press only to 0.7 bar for table wine.

6. SO2 addition timing and extent? – 50 ppm SO2 at the juice tray for table wine and nothing for sparkling wine. N2 sparge juices to tank to eliminate O2.

7. Juice additions and settling time? –No enzymes, in hot years judicious tartaric

acid addition and settling time at less than 5C for about a week. 8. Racking clarity? For both sparkling and table wine take all of the light lees to a

racked juice turbidity of NTU 150 to 250 or 0.3 to 0.5% solids by volume. 9. Pre-fermentation additions? -100 ppm DAP, 0.5 gpl bentonite, wet yeast culture

of choice (usually QA23 or similar) at 3% with 300 million cells/ml, T14W Lactobacillus culture at 1.5%.

10. Fermentation vessels and temperature? –gravitate immediately to barriques (mostly Vosges oak) to allow to warm and begin fermentation always maintaining

temperature at less than 20C. Sparkling wine in old oak, nothing younger than 5 years, and table wine Chardonnay in 2 use, 1 use and new barriques, about a third each.

11. Fermentation, lees time and stirring or not? –fermentation, usually about 2 weeks to dryness, then allowed to sit on lees with topping until MLF is complete in spring. No lees stirring.


12. Post fermentation treatments. -After MLF, rack to tank with lees. For sparkling wine begin blending and preparation for tiraging. For table wine add SO2 to 30ppm free, usually to 80ppm total and return to barrique.

13. Prebottling treatments. Table wine clear racked from barrique to tank in January (10 months in barrique), adjust SO2 to 30ppm free, casein fine at 150ppm. After 2 to

3 weeks settling at 10C clear rack and cross flow filter to 0.45 micron before bottling.

14. Cork or screw cap? –Screw cap but not without a fight. Finally. The issues and decisions described are all connected by logic based on the known science of grape growing and winemaking described in the two papers. The final approach could be described as considered, conservative, controlled and careful. To reiterate the philosophy that defines this winegrowing pathway, “The dominant influence on the quality and style of wine produced is the terroir of the vineyards from which the grapes are produced.” With respect to the winemaking process we don’t know it all and the role of glutathione is a case in point where vineyard nitrogen being in the adequate range to create adequate YAN and good fermentation conditions could also be helpful for wine resistance to oxidation by the presence of significant glutathione in the bottled wine. Similarly the degree of bunch exposure to create ripe fruit aromatics is based on empiricism as much as carotenoid chemistry. The phenol chemistry at fruit processing and juice separation is much better understood and the approach adopted is to limit flavonoid extraction by chilling grapes and must, avoiding SO2 contact with skins, seeds and stems and soft pressing. These protocols also limit the oxidation and lowering of non-flavonoid phenol content in juice draining and pressing. The non-flavonoid content is fixed after pressing by sparging out the O2 and adding SO2 to terminate PPO function. The considered part of this conservative decision is that some phenol is part of the varietal contribution to Chardonnay wine attributes and that other aromatic attributes of Chardonnay are conserved in the cold anaerobic juice condition. The fermentation process is managed in a controlled and careful fashion. The choice of cultured yeast and the strain used are made to ensure complete fermentation with no sulphide, low volatile acid and evident fruity esters to complement the ripe varietal fruit aromas and flavours. Malo lactic fermentation with a very low aroma influencing strain, is to decrease acid in cool years and to introduce some complexity and a changed mouth feel at a slightly higher pH in all years. Bentonite fining in fermentation is the most efficient way to protein stabilise. Time on yeast lees is very important to the wine’s final freshness, complexity, texture and resistance to oxidation. Les stirring may accelerate autolysis but is itself an oxygen introducing process. Casein fining prior to bottling is an insurance against “premox” by complexing and removing phenols. The emerging allergen regulations virtually mandate the cross-flow filtration of casein fined wine. Screw cap is part of the “premox” insurance but I believe the root cause of “premox” which is triggered by poor corks and O2 ingression into the bottle, is more


fundamentally based on the grape composition from the vineyard and the way we go about our viticulture and winemaking in this age compared to the past. As always, I wish I knew more! BJC. 22/7/2013.

REFERENCES.

1. Smyth H. (2005), The compositional basis of the aroma of Riesling and unwooded Chardonnay wine. PhD thesis, University of Adelaide and AWRI.

2. Sefton M., Francis I., Williams P., (1993) The Volatile Composition of Chardonnay Juices. A Study of Flavour Precursor Analysis. Am. J. Enol. Vitic., Vol. 44, No. 4.

3. Crupi P., Coletta A., Antonacci D., (2010) Analysis of Caratonoids in Grapes to Predict Norisoprenoid Varietal Aroma of Wines from Apulia.

4. Gawel R. (2002), Sniffing out the Secrets of White Wine Aromas. www.aromadictionary.com

5. Ramey D., Bertrand A., Ough C., Singleton V., Sanders E., (1986) Effects of Skin Contact Temperature on Chardonnay Must and Wine Composition. Am. J. Enol. Vitic., Vol. 37, No. 2, 99-106.

6. Schneider V. (1998) Must Hyperoxidation: A Review. Am. J. Enol. Vitic., Vol. 49, No. 1, 65-73.

7. Cejudo-Bastante M., Hermosin-Gutierrez I., Castro-Vazquez L., Perez-Coella M., (2011) Hyperoxidation and bottle storage of Chardonnay white wines: effects on color-related phenolics, volatile composition, and sensory characteristics. J. Agric. Food Chem. 59 (8): 4171-82.

8. Cheynier V., Souquet J-M., Samson A., Moutounet M., (1991) Hyperoxidation: influence of various oxygen supply levels on oxidation kinetics of phenolic compounds and wine quality. Vitis 30, 107-115.

9. Kritzinger E. (2012) Winemaking practices affecting glutathione concentrations in white wine. Thesis for Master of Agricultural Sciences, Stellenbosch University.

10. Park S., Boulton R., Noble A., (2000) Formation of hydrogen sulfide and glutathione during fermentation of white musts. Am. J. Enol. Vit. 51 (2) 91-97.

11. Curtin C., Bellon J., Bartowski E., Henschke P., Chambers P., Herderich M., Pretorius I., (2011) Harnessing AWRI’s yeast and bacterial research to shape “next-gen” Chardonnay Part 1: “Wild” and “non-conventional” yeast. Part 2: Influence of yeast , nutritional management and malolactic fermentation. AWRI Reports.

12. Ugliano M., Henschke P., Hererich M., Pretorius I., (2007) Nitrogen management is critical for wine flavour and style. AWRI Report.

13. Henschke P., Varela C., Schmidt S., Siebert T., Kalouchova R., Curtin C,. Francis L., Torrea D., Ancin-Azpilicueta C., Vilanova M., Ugliano M., (2012) Modulaing Wine Style with DAP. Practical Winery and Vineyard Journal.

14. Saliba A., (2012) Attitudes, Drivers of Consumption and Taste preferences: a Focus on Chardonnay. Project NWG 1103.

15. Howard C., (2013) Revisiting extended maturation of white wines “sur lies”. Wine and Viticulture Journal, Vol. 28, No. 4.

16. Bonne J., (2013) How John Kongsgaard rewrote the rules of white wine. San Francisco Chronicle, July 22, 2013.

17. Lavigne V., Pons A., Darriet P., Dubordieu D., (2013) Incidence of some oenological parameters on the content of sotolon in white wines. Wine and Viticulture Journal, Vol. 28 No.4.


http://www.aromadictionary.com/

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Innovative Techniques in the Winery for Chardonnay productiony p

August 2013 Warren Gibson

1

Quotes from Lisa Perrotti‐Brown MW

• You taste a lot of wines from Australia and New Zealand. Is there anything that’s particularly exciting you?

• Chardonnay in Australia continues to excite, and New Zealand’s getting a little bit better but it’s only a handful of producers. There are some producers – not just in New Zealand – where you swear they taste nothing but their own wine and they are working in a vacuum!

• And Australian Chardonnay?• What I am excited about is that Australians have bounced back from

that really lean style, and they’ve reached a middle ground that’s actually very exciting and really interesting. I’m glad that some people have held their ground – like Leeuwin Estate that still makes big, full‐bodied, chunky chardonnay. There is such a market for that style. I’d still call it old school, but it’s good school

2

Innovative Chardonnay productionSome thoughts:

• Leaf exposure/reductive potential of the fruit

• Picking times

• Yeast – indigenous from the winery or vineyard

• Timing of the phase of the vintage on fermentation dynamics/yeast species

• Pre‐pressing techniques to modify phenolic levels/solids/turbidity

• Whole‐bunch fermentation

• SO2 versus no SO2 additions pre‐fermentation

• Direct to barrel from the press versus tank settling (sequential barrel filling)

• Various turbidity of the juices pre‐fermentation (Range 100‐500 NTU?)

• Pressing cuts

• No use of Yeast supplements

• Use of bigger format vessels for balance/integration (e.g. 500 litre Puncheons)

• Ageing of some components with elevated FSO2 to keep tight/reductive

• Lees stirring (yes/no) and frequency/timing

• 2 o’clock barrel aging

• Diacetyl management

• Cherry‐picking of components to suit style

• Avoiding use of CuSO4

• Elevated FSO2 at bottling including decline in bottle over time

• Closure (no‐brainer)

• Bottle ageing

• Ascorbic acid as an anti‐oxidant 3

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What these 6 wines are:

• 100% Hand picked

• 100% Indigenous alcoholic/MLF fermentation

• Un‐chaptalized

• No acidity modification

4

What these 6 wines are attempting to be:

• Powerful but restrained

• Positively complex

• Age‐worthy

• Tight but uncoiling over time

• Moving away from “jungle‐juice”

5

What these 6 wines are not:

• Big , fat and blowsy

• High in alcohol

• High input in the cellar

• Expensive to make in the winery

• Full of new oak, particularly small form

6

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Basic Vineyard considerations affecting winemaking paths

• Site (warm/cool)?

• Soil (Vigour in a wet/dry season)?

• Leaf removal (big style changer)

• Bunch morphology

• Harvest date (reductive potential)

7

8

9

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10

Harvesting and pre‐pressing techniques to manipulate phenolic levels and turbidity

• Hand‐pick/whole bunch press

• Hand‐pick and crush to press

• Hand pick and direct press (must pump)• Hand‐pick and direct press (must pump)

• Machine harvest and skin contact

• Press directly to barrel for fermentation

• Settle in a tank/homogenise after pressing

11

Wine 1 2013 Hawkes Bay Chardonnay

• Whole bunch pressed

• Direct to 500 litre puncheon (this is barrel 1 of 8)

• New Puncheon (Chassin)

• Barrel completely filled

• 40ppm PMS added

• Wait for fermentation to begin

• SO2 added after ferment on taste (160ppm PMS)

• Stirred as deemed appropriate

• Tight, mineral, flinty blending component

12

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• Whole bunch pressed

• Direct to 500 litre puncheon (this is barrel 8 of 8)

• New Puncheon (Mercurey)

• Barrel completely filled• Barrel completely filled

• 40ppm PMS added

• Wait for fermentation/MLF to begin

• Leave with no SO2 post fermentation

• Stirred/SO2 when deemed appropriate

• Fatter, rich complex blending component

13


• Whole bunch pressed• Direct to 228 litre barriques, • Numbered sequentially, each with various turbidity• 1, 2 year and older barriques • Barrels completely filled• Barrels completely filled • 40 ppm PMS added• Wait for indigenous fermentation to begin• SO2(160 ppm) immediately post fermentation• No MLF• 10 months barrel aging. • Minimal stirring• Barrel selection based on style/complexity/reduction

14

Wine 42011 Yarra Valley Chardonnay

• 80% Whole‐bunch pressed, then overnight settling, racked to puncheon. Lees re‐integrated if clean and attractive.

• 30ppm TSO at juice tray• 30ppm TSO2 at juice tray.

• 20% whole‐bunch fermented (pigeage)

Pressed at approximately 6 brix, direct to barrel.

• 50% MLF

• No additions/fining agents

15

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Chardonnay In North Canterbury

Greystone Vineyard

• B95 / 3309 on low lying river terrace• Frost prone (sprinklers)• Heavy fertile soils• Some protection from the windp

• Mend / RG on steep north facing hillside• Approx. 140 m ASL so relatively “safe” from spring frosts

• Low soil fertility, rapid drainage• Extremely exposed to the elements

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Challenges

• Susceptible to everything!

• Frost damage, wind damage, hail damage, bronze beetles

i f i / i / h li• Managing fruit exposure / ripeness / phenolic development / acid management

• Powdery and botrytis

• Mendoza’s cropping level

• Small berries – sometimes unripe, sometimes over ripe / raisained

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Winemaking

• Handpick, cool fruit

• Whole bunch press, light settle

• Into barrel for wild ferment. Minimal stirring l l i h 20% k b iunless sluggish. 20% new oak barriques

• 12‐18 months depending on the wine

• RS possible issues

• Malo approx. 50%

Rewards – why do this to ourselves?!

• When we get it right! A great Chardonnay expresses all the complexity of a vineyard and the personality of the winemaker as well as Pinot Noir.

• There are so many different paths for the winemaker to explore so the wine showcases the vineyard and creates a brand style.

• Profitable!! Mostly – the main problem is crop level in the low to medium priced wines

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An anathema?

”There is no place in earth as well suited to the Burgundy varieties than Otago”

Romeo Bragato 1892

Pinot Noir 76 %

Pinot Gris 12 %

Riesling 4%

Pinot Gris218 Ha

Chardonnay 46 Ha.

1.4% of national plantings

g %

Chardonnay 3 %

Sauvignon Blanc 2 %

Gewurztraminer 1%

Syrah 0.2 %

Pinot Blanc 0.1 %

Others 0.7 %

Pinot Noir1366 Ha

Total in Grapes 1786 Ha.

Source: NZ Winegrowers Vineyard Register Report 2012.

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Mendoza UCD6 UCD15

Experimental plantings of B95 548 1066 121 809 Photo: Riversun Nursery Ltd

Bendigo

Pisa

Bannockburn

Alexandra

Budburst Late Sept/early Oct Bloom Mid-late Dec Veraison Early Feb

d h d l Maturity Mid-March – mid-April

Bloom harvest normally 110 days

Typical analysis 22.5-23.5 Bx, 8 - 9 g/L TA, 3.0 – 3.2 pH, 3 – 4 g/L malic

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Mainly UCD clones, Harvested early 18-22 Brix, mid March High TA’s 10-14 g/L Better in Cromwell basin but possible in cooler

h d d lregions harvested mid April Tank fermented, partial or full malo Usually blended with Pinot Noir Occasionally Blanc des Blancs

Eg Quartz Reef, Amisfield, Akarua, Aurum

Cromwell, Alexandra, Wanaka, Gibbston Most use Mendoza, B95, UCD6 Harvested late March-mid-April, 21-22 Brix Limited/subtle use of oak Usually tank fermented sometime on beans Usually tank fermented, sometime on beans Occasionally micro-oxygenated Limited lees contact Bottled early

Eg Chard Farm Closeburn, Carrick, Davishon

Almost exclusively Cromwell & Alexandra Generally Mendoza, UCD 15,B95, 548 Hand harvested, whole bunch pressed, some de-

stem & press to raise solids, Low SO2stem & press to raise solids, Low SO2

Range if wild & cultured yeast usually in mix of new & old oak

New oak ranges from 10-20% Lees contact 8-10 months, stirred 1-3 x

Eg. Felton Rd, Kawarau Estate, Maude, Mt Difficulty.

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Searching for balanced, linear styles

Through:

Clonal diversity Better site specificity More complexity Lower alcohol Careful use of lees Less obviously oaked

Analyses of the wines tasted

Vintage Alcohol pHTitratable

acidityResidual

Sugar(% v/v) (g/L) (g/L)

Morning Session

Flight 1 – Clonal SelectionMicrovin examples from Riversun.Clone 548 2013 13.32 3.37 8.1Clone 1066 2013 13.7 2.88 8.33Clone 121 2013 12.98 3.49 6.54Clone 809 2013 12.89 3.38 6.84Commercial example of barrel fermented 548 from Villa Maria 2013 14.2 3.47 6.28

Flight 2 – 2 wines chosen by Brian Croser to illustrate points covered in his address. 3 wines to show different expressions of Chardonnay from Hawkes Bay and 1 from Australia.Tapanappa Tiers 2010. 2010 13.2 3.15 7Argyle Nuthouse Oregon Chardonnay 2010 2010 12.5 3.32 7.2Coldstream Deer Farm 2011 2011 12.5 3.18 7.3 1.4Villa Maria Keltern Chardonnay 2010 2010 13.5 3.2 6.83 1.2Clearview Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2011 2011 14 3.3 7.1 3Sacred Hill Virgin Chardonnay 2011 (no oak) 2011 12 3.05 7.7 2.51

Afternoon Session

Flight 1 – Winemaking “techniques”

Warren Gibson Selection of 6 wines, Barrels samples from 2013 + bottled examples from 2011 and 2012.Wine 1 (2013) 2013 13.4 3.14 8 0.5Wine 2 (2013) 2013 13.4 3.35 5.5 2Wine 3 (2011) 2011 12.8 3.13 6.8 1.2Wine 4 (2011) 2011 12.8 3.32 6.3 0.5Wine 5 (2012) 2012 12.8 3.32 6.3 0.9Wine 6 (2010) 2010 13.5 3 7.4 1

Flight 2 – Regional Selection.

Villa Maria Gisborne Barrique Fermented 2010 Chardonnay 2010 14 3.23 6.7 1Ashwood Estate 2010 Chardonnay 2010 13.8 6.7 2.2Martinborough Vineyards Chardonnay 2010 2010 13.5 3.45 6.7 0Nautilus 2010 2010 14 3.34 7.5 dryFromm Clayvin Chardonnay 2010 2010 13.5 3.12 5.6 <1Auntsfield 2010 Cob Cottage Chardonnay 2010 14 3.34 7.4

Flight 3 – Continuation of New Zealand Regions and Australia

Auckland, Nelson, Hawkes Bay, Yarra and Western Australia Kumeu River Hunting Hill 2010 2010 13.4 3.16 6.8Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay 2009 2009 13.5 7 drySacred Hill Riflemans 2010 2010 14 3.41 5.8 <2Penfolds Reserve Bin A 2010 2010 13.2 3.18 5.7 0.5Oakridge 864 2011Voyager Chardonnay 2010 ANALYSES FOR 2009 ** 2009 12.8 3.1 7.9


6/09/2013

6

Wine 52012 Hawkes Bay Chardonnay

• 50% Whole bunch pressed• 50% Direct to press via must pump • Direct to 500 litre puncheons, 30% new• Numbered sequentially, each with various turbidities• Barrels completely filled• Barrels completely filled • 40 ppm PMS added• Wait for indigenous fermentation to begin• 100% MLF• SO2 on taste/freshness/diacetyl• 12 months barrel ageing• Fortnightly stirring• Barrel selection based on style/complexity/reduction

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Wine 62010 Puligny‐Montrachet

• 100% Whole‐bunch pressed

• 12‐18 hours settling in tank

• Racked to 228 litre barriques 15 to 20% new• Racked to 228 litre barriques, 15 to 20% new

• Aged on lees in barrel for 12 months

• 50% MLF

• High FSO2 at bottling

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Wine 1 Wine 2 Wine 3 Wine 4 Wine 5 Wine 6

Vintage 2013 2013 2011 2011 2012 2010

Alcohol % 13.4 13.4 12.8 12.8 12.8 13.5

pH 3.14 3.35 3.13 3.32 3.26 3.00

TA (g/l) 8.0 5.5 6.8 6.3 6.5 7.4

MLF 5% 100% None 50% 95% 50%

Residual Sugar (g/l) 0.5 2.0 1.2 0.5 0.9 1.0

FSO2 @ bottling (ppm) 40.0 low 30.0 34.0 42.0 31.0(in bottle)(in bottle)

Dissolved CO2 (g/l) High High 0.9 0.75 0.69 ?

New oak % 100% 1 Puncheon

100% 1 Puncheon

0% 20% Puncheon

30% Puncheon

15% barrique

Average vine age (years) 8 8 8 25 8 38

Clones 15 15 15 + 95 110V1 95,15,Mendoza

?

Soil Sandy silt loam on gravel

Sandy silt loam on gravel

Sandy loam on red

metal gravel

Red Basalt Sandy silt loam on/and

gravel

Calcareousclay

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Technology

2013 NZSVO Chardonnay Workshop Proceedings