Kristina and Jason Kolaczkowski

2012 HAMS Graduation Climbing Team (Group 1)

Left to right: Kelly, Dave, Dana, Aaron, Kristina, Jill, Jason, Cindy, Sharon, Chad, Derek and Joel

Overview What did we pack? (both)

Philosophy of Climbing Light (KK)

Defining Necessary (KK)

Know Your System (JK)

Tradeoffs with Comfort

Physical Comfort (KK)

Risk and Contingency Planning (JK)

Allocation of Group Gear (JK)

By the Numbers – Gear Weight Comparisons (both)

What did we pack? Packing for Rainier by the “Ten Essential Systems”…

plus one.

Packing for the airline

Philosophy of Climbing Light Andrew Skurka

Comfort hiking versus camping

Knowledge doesn’t weigh anything

Don’t pack out of fear

Gear multi-functional

Ed Viesters

Alpine ascent style of climbing

Team-based systems

Define Necessary You want me to carry 6

oz of bug spray?!?

Clothing

Sleep System

Technical Gear

Food and Hydration

First Aid

Know Your System “Knowledge doesn’t weigh anything”

Revise and improve your system as you go.

What are your necessary items versus nice to have items versus luxury items?

Don’t climb light for the first time on Rainier.

Jason 47 lbs (carrying boots and rope)

Tradeoffs with Comfort: Physical Decide how and when

you are willing to be uncomfortable

Hiking

Camping

Kristina: Comfortable Hiking (32 lbs)

Kelly: Comfortable Camping (67 lbs)

Tradeoffs with Comfort: Risk Dealing with Risk

Contingency Planning and Probability: What if you get caught in a whiteout on Grey’s and Torrey’s in August?

Facts versus myths

Don’t overly “customize”

Allocation of Group Gear Equal division of all group gear

Best when climbers are of similar size

When climbers are not comfortable identifying weight

Proportional allocation based on body weight When there is wide diversity in

the size of climbers

Distribution that will best support the success of the team Position on the rope; special skills Diversity in the fitness of the

climbing team A team member is having a bad

climbing day Rope Team + our Fearless Leader (Sharon right)

By the Numbers Item: 6' Sleeping Bags Ounces Item: Hoodless Down Jackets Ounces

Mountain Hardware 15 31 Pategonia Down Sweater 11

Mountain Hardware 0 46 Pategonia Rubicon 36

Western Mountaineering 10 degree 36 North Face Thunder Micro Down 14

Western Mountaineering 0 degree 48 North Face Nuptse 2 24

Marmot 15 degree 30 Eddie Bauer Downlight Sweater 13

Marmot 0 degree 44 Eddie Bauer Mountain Guide Down 22

Item: 2 Person Tents Ounces Item: 60m Ropes Ounces

North Face EV2 82 Petzl Nomad 9.8mm 133.3

North Face Trango 2 157 Petzl Fuse 9.4mm 118.5

Bibler Eldorado 81 Mammut Infinity 9.5mm 122.8

Bibler Fitzroy 113 Mammut Serenity 8.9mm 110.1

Hilleberg Jannu 102 Beal Diablo 9.8mm 129.1

Hilleberg Tarra 123 Beal Joker 9.1mm 91.0

Conclusion You must be comfortable with the amount of gear that you are carrying

Knowledge is power… and knowledge is weightless

Know how to use your gear in multiple ways

Know the weight of your gear

Experiment with systems

Know the route, the conditions, and the needs those dictate

Do not skimp on weight at the risk of the team

Find your balance point between comfort for travel and for camp

Set expectations for group gear ahead of time and in a way that supports you goals

Light weight isn’t a set of tricks, it’s a consistent, mental approach considering your personal preference for trade-offs

Resources

Questions?