Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
MilanFashionWeek -Survival Guide23-28 September 2015
SS 16Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana presents
Curated & Designed byCurated & Designed by
cameramoda.itmilanomodadonna.it
Cover.indd 1 11/09/15 11:28
Dear Fashion Week Survivor,
We are thrilled to welcome you back to Milan for the kick off of Milano Moda Donna. Over the past six months, we’ve extensively reviewed and revised the initiatives and programs of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana in the hopes of bringing new energy, relevance and excitement to Milan fashion week and the Italian fashion system in general. Many developments have already occurred, including the recent Milano Moda Graduate, a talent search and fashion show that unified all of Italy’s top fashion schools together for the first time.
Our strategy involves fostering best practices for Italian fashion brands in sustainability through all levels of the production chain, from primary materials to store rollout. It also involves a greater focus on promoting aspiring designers, coordinating nationwide initiatives and creating a permanent hub for this next generation, a project which we are very excited about and will share details on soon. In the meantime, I suggest you visit our temporary Fashion Hub Market at Piazza Gae Aulenti in the Porta Nuova district for a look at the 17 new designers we’re proud to support.
Another goal is to support engaging, creative projects that bring freshness and modernity to the fashion week experience. To that end, we are very pleased to present the following Fashion Week Survival Guide. In these pages, you’ll find a helpful, humorous look at the week’s brimming activity to scope out, as well as a fresh view on Milan’s coolest cultural and culinary scenes, all curated by Milan-based website LaDoubleJ.com. It’s an unusual step for us, but one of the many changes we’re happy to be ushering in to Milano Moda Donna.
Enjoy the adventure!
Carlo Capasa President of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana
Curated and Designed by LaDoubleJ.com
Tabl
e of
Con
tent
s
What’s on This WeekNew Debuts, Not-to-Miss Events and Fashion Week Extravaganzas
Baby ItaliansAre you Synched-up with the Next Generation?
The New WaveUpstart Local Labels We Love
Niche NativesMilanese Multi-brand Shops That Sell Our Favorite Small Italian Labels
New & Noteworthy in MilanCulture, Food & Shopping
Take Home a Milan OriginalOur Favorite Locally-Made Goodies
Fuel-Up Between the Runway ActionWhere To Eat Near Fashion Shows and Showrooms
Coffee & Quick FoodWhere To Grab a Bite On The Go
Where the Milanese MangianoRestaurants You Probably Don’t Know But Should Check Out!!
Beauty & Wellness S.O.S.!What To Do When Emergency Strikes!
How to Live Like an ItalianThe DO’s and DONT’s of Milanese Etiquette
Design DestinationsGet Your Dose of Milanese High Design
1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10.11.12.
5
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
Arthur Arbesser at IcebergStill a mere Milanese babe in the fashion woods, Arbesser has already lassoed his first major appointment as Creative Director at Iceberg. Let’s see what the Austrian-born designer has got up his sleeves. He’s also debuting his very first fashion show for his eponymous label in Piazza Duomo.
Iceberg Fashion ShowFriday 25th of September3 pmVia Piranesi 10
Arthur Arbesser Fashion ShowMonday 28th of September10 amPiazza Duomo - Scalone Arengario
Peter Dundas at Roberto Cavalli This season the Norwegian-born designer hops from one fabled Florentine brand to another—leaving Emilio Pucci after seven years for Roberto Cavalli, where he was previously head of womenswear. Think it’ll be sizzling? We do too.
Roberto Cavalli Fashion Show Saturday 26th of September 12.30 pm Via Senato 10
Massimo Giorgetti at PucciThe MSGM wunderkind steps into the fashion big leagues with his eagerly anticipated debut as Creative Director at Emilio Pucci. Cruise was already punched with Giorgetti’s signature sport. What will the big runway bring?
Pucci Fashion ShowThursday 24th of September3 pm Via Orobia 15
and Fashion Week ExtravaganzasNew Debuts, Not-to-Miss Events
What’s on This Week
6
Vogue Talents at Palazzo MorandoOnce again, Vogue Italia presents Vogue Talents and Who is on Next?, showcasing the latest in emerging design talent in womenswear and accessories. The 19 hot names to watch across both categories—including Ilariuss from Italy, RXP from China, Fernando Jorge from Brazil, Lolita Lorenzo from Kenya, Alexander White from the UK and Avanblanc from Italy—will have their moment to show off to the Fashion Elite in town.
Vogue TalentsPalazzo MorandoVia Sant’Andrea 6www.vogue.it/talents
Bellissima: Italy and High Fashion 1945-1968 The feted exhibition that was at Rome’s Maxxi museum last year now comes to Monza, a short distance from Milan and totally worth the trek. Over 20 years of Italian Fashion history from the period that defined what is now known as true Italian style— including gorgeous gowns and ensembles from Sorelle Fontana, Balestra, and Mila Schön—are on view alongside more familiar labels such as Pucci, Valentino and Fendi.
BellissimaVilla Reale di MonzaViale Brianza 1www.villarealedimonza.it
1. What’s on This Week
Damir Doma The Paris-based mens and womenswear label makes its Milanese debut this season. We’re curious if the Croatian designer will mix up his uncluttered, urban-minded silhouette on the Italian catwalk.
Damir Doma Fashion ShowSunday 27th of September8 pmVia Zecca Vecchia 3
Montenapoleone Association VIP LoungeThose looking to lead a life as pampered as one of Valentino’s pugs need look no further than Via Sant’Andrea 23 where the Montenapoleone Association has opened a gorgeous VIP lounge (it’s outfitted floor-to-ceiling in Molteni, Flos and AgapeCasa) for shoppers and travellers in Milan. The first of its kind in the fashion capital, it’s a concierge service on steroids. It offers everything from having your bags sent directly from the airport to your hotel (no more hassle at the MXP baggage claim!) to use of private fitting rooms in the lounge (trying on multiple looks from one of the 150 luxury brands in the fashion’s Quadralateral has never been so easy!) A tailor-made experience from landing until take-off.
Via Sant’Andrea 23www.montenapoleone.luxury
7
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
intr
oduc
es th
e Fa
shio
n H
ub M
arke
tTh
e C
amer
a Na
zion
ale
della
Mod
a Ita
liana
Press Office Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana Calling all Journos and budding bloggers! Need a space to sit down, refuel and....write!? Grazie a Dio the Camera Nazionale has set up a big, new press office inside their fabulous Fashion Hub. Shiny computers, zippy WiFi, fired- up printers and the Italian’s favorite accessory-the phone-will ensure you can file on time grab that celebratory Spritz after hitting “send.” But before you dash off to the next show, be sure to take a minute (or two!) to enjoy Panorama, a visual history of Bella Italia, projected on the front of the Fashion Hub.
Camera Nazionale della Moda Italian Press OfficeUniCredit PavilionPiazza Gae Aulenti 10Open every day of Fashion Week from 9am-7pm
8
§
Designers on Show:
Anna KBouguessaC.J. YaoDamiano MariniEDITHMARCELEmanuele BicocchiflavialaroccaJ MoonL’F SHOESles petits joueursLiselore FrowijnSchieldSolovièreStudiopretzelTF Twins FlorenceUjohVoodoo Jewels
Fashion Hub Market UniCredit Pavilion Piazza Gae Aulenti 10www.cameramoda.it
Jazz hands, people! The Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana inaugurates their new talent-showcasing pavilion in Porta Nuova’s impressive Piazza Gae Aulenti. A panel of judges including Camera president Carlo Capasa have curated a group of 17 homegrown and international designers less than five years old, which will be on show for buyers and press interested in discovering next-gen names. It is set to become a long-term incubator, with the Camera mentoring the talent. Bring your wallets too—the aspiring designers will be selling their collections. While in the city’s new urban, off-center hot-spot (where brands like Costume National, Les Hommes and Maison Margiela have opened shop) grab a bite at chic Italian bistro Rataná or indulge in a high-end dinner at Ristorante Berton.
8
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com1. What’s on This Week
New to Fashion Week
9
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
§
Nicolò Beretta, GiannicoYoung shoe designer Nicolò Beretta’s gamut of flats and heels often come festooned with everything from gold-plated deer heads to plastic pills and leather lips.“It’s not difficult to find shoes that are made well, but Giannico’s are modern and ironic in fresh and new way. Aside from being objets d’art, they are also extremely comfortable.”
www.giannicoofficial.com
Martina Grasselli, ColiacBefore launching her shoe line, architect and designer by trade Grasselli was creating poppy, textured costume jewelry that now takes center stage in her footwear.“Wearing brogues is not a new trend, but Grasselli designs a range of comfortable day-to-day shoes adorned with pearls, metal studs and plastic jewels that offer a fresh way to wear go-to classics.”21
Vogue Italia’s Sara Maino Reports…Head of Vogue Talents for the past eight years, Sara Maino is a passionate, Milan-based talent
scout for Vogue Italia. Here she shares top success stories of Italian-based brands from her worldwide initiative. Do you know all of them? If not, get with the program! And be sure to
check out this year’s edition of Vogue Italia’s twin talent incubator initiatives Vogue Talents and Who’s on Next at Palazzo Morando.
Baby Italianswith the Next Generation?
Are you Synched-up
www.coliac.com
10
Matteo Gioli, Veronica and Ilaria Cornacchini, SuperDuper HatsGioli and the Cornacchini sisters use traditional, Made-in-Italy techniques for their extensive line of hats, ranging from fedoras and bowlers to visors and turbans.“You don’t really see young people doing hats, so it’s refreshing to watch this trio showcase artisan craftsmanship through the eyes of a new generation.”
www.superduperhats.com
3Francesco Ferrari and Tomaso Anfossi, CO|TEAvant-garde yet refined, futuristic but modern, CO|TE is inspired by Japanese and urban cultures, yielding minimal, feminine designs that are highly geometric and colorful.“Francesco and Tomaso create futuristic silhouettes for casual daywear (not street-wear!) that feels young but grown up.”
4
2. Baby Italians
www.co-te.com
11
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
Daizy ShelyIsraeli-born, Milan-based Shely has been a game-changer in the sphere of womenswear, presenting wild, unconventional shapes structured from fringed silk, buttery leathers and fluffy feathers. She’s also been selected as this year’s upcoming designer to show at Armani’s Teatro.“Daizy isn’t scared to present fashion from a different point of view. She uses many different colors and textures, which can be a lot to process, but when you examine the individual pieces you appreciate their high quality.”
5Edgardo Osorio, Aquazzura The lush, hand-worked decoration on each and every pair of Aquazurra heels, booties, flats and sandals has catapulted this brand to fame from Tokyo to Rome. “Edgardo really loves women to be elegant and sexy. His designs are super feminine and not just because of his sky-high heels.”6www.daizyshely.com
www.aquazzura.com
12
Antonio Romano and Francesco Alagna, ComeforbreakfastThis design-duo draws on the dynamism and playful minimalism of urban cultures to produce complex silhouettes that are nonetheless intelligent. The multi-layers and cutting-edge materials seal the deal.“These two designers have strong Japanese street-style influence, and you can tell right away from their image that they know who they are and who they want to be.”
Christian Pellizzari Known for menswear that merges classic textiles such as cashmere and jacquard with easygoing designs, Christian Pellizzari’s newer womenswear line combines couture craftsmanship with the comfort of sportswear. Bonus: it’s affordable!“Christian is spending more time dedicated on women’s, which has evolved into a series of highly feminine silhouettes.”
78www.christianpellizzari.it
www.comeforbreakfast.it
2. Baby Italians
13
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
Lee Wood, L72After 16 years with Versace, Wood launched a collection of bags, shoes and clothes inspired by the non-gender elements of uniforms featuring simplistic, yet sensual shapes. Technical and classical materials such as leather and silk mix seamlessly to define the structural volumes of his silhouette.“It takes a lot of nerve to launch your own line at age 42, but Wood has created a multi-faceted collection that focuses on materials over shape. He works with the best Italian textile companies and is a complete perfectionist.” Fabio Sasso and
Juan Caro, LeitmotivSasso and Caro combine their art history backgrounds to generate and produce digitally generated, decorative designs for their highly feminine womenswear collections.“Leitmotiv were the first new-generation designers in Italy who really explored prints and did it really well and despite experimentation they have not changed direction. Prints are in their DNA.”
910
2. Baby Italians
www.studiol72.com
www.leit-motiv.com
14
Àlvaro GonzalezAfter a stint at Valextra, Spanish-born, Florence-based designer Gonzalez has consolidated his time and creative bandwidth on his own line of hand-crafted leather sandals, belts and bags, all made by Florentine artisans.
www.alvarogonzalez.co
GEM Fashion duo Paolo Battaglia and Antonio Ponte have made their mark over the last decade at Missoni and Iceberg. Their newest pursuit is a line of crunch-tastic embroidered pieces that glow with gumball-sized crystals, massive plastic petals and all manner of luxurious embellishment.
www.gem-official.com
The New Wave
12
Upstart Local Labels We Love
15
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
Super-girl stylist trio Corrada Rodriguez D’Acri, Delfina Pinardi and Sole Torlonia are keeping things modern with their razor-sharp, made-to-order blazers that have become a cult insider’s favorite since the brand’s launch at the end of 2013. They go just as well with a pair of jeans as they do over an evening gown.
Grace YogaA long time Art Director at Gucci during Tom Ford’s era, Karen Joyce left her high-powered corporate career life behind and is now a lotus-sitting yogi. Her new lifestyle
Blazé
www.blaze-milano.com
5La DoubleJ Editions Self-promotion, alert! In addition to putting together this guide, and running our Milan-based shoppable magazine, we here at LaDoubleJ.com are debuting a collection of silk dresses featuring vintage patterns from Mantero’s Como-based archives. Available on www.ladoublej.com and matchesfashion.com.
www.ladoublej.com 34
16
www.weargrace.com
For Restless SleepersFrancesca Ruffini is not just the better half of Moncler chairman Remo Ruffini. She’s also the brains behind a new line of lounge-y pajamas, all crafted from Como-made silk, that can be worn from morning to midnight—not to mention in bed.
www.forrestlesssleepers.com
Kyme Sunglasses Optician-turned-designer Antonello Calderoni launched his fashionable line of sunnies in 2013 under the brand Kyme. Inspired by the glamour of vintage designs, Kyme favors vivid colors, strong shapes and sartorial lines for classically modern and dynamic shades that everyone from college kids to octogenarians are vying to wear.
www.kymesunglasses.com
LodenTalClassic coats now have a cool factor thanks to a make-over by Andrea Providdenza who has taken an old-school style evergreen and revamped them in different silhouettes and in juicy, bright wools that satisfy niche style seekers. Look out for the new capsule collection for Gwyneth Paltrow’s GOOP.com coming in October.
www.lodental.it
67
8
3. The New Wave
is reflected in her gorgeous line of yoga wear that meets Milan’s high standards for workout attire (i.e. no schlubby sweatpants, ever!).
17
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
Niche Natives
That Sell Our Favorite Small Italian Labels
Check out these Milanese Multi-brand Shops Sick of the Behemoth Brands On Montenapoleone?
No. 21Vivetta
Stella JeanSara BattagliaAndrea Incontri
Paula CademartoriGentucca Bini
MSGMAndrea Pompilio
Marco de VincenzoCa&Lou
Arthur ArbesserSveva CollectionCecilia Bringheli
AquazurraFausto PuglisiAu Jour Le Jour 1
1 2
2
1 3
3
3
5 101 11
12
5 111 2 4
6
6
6
121 2
9
13
42 7
121 87
127
18
1
7
8
2
9
3
10
4
11
12
6
5
13
Via Cusani 5+39 02 86 99 83 40www.antonia.it
Antonia
Piazza del Duomo+39 02 88 52 1www.rinascente.it
La Rinascente
Via Santa Marta 14+39 02 72 08 01 95www.waitandsee.it
Wait and See
Galleria del Corso 4+39 02 76 30 73 01www.excelsiormilano.com
Excelsior
Corso Genova 16+39 02 89 40 33 59www.annaravazzoli.eu
Anna Ravazzoli
Via Morelli Angolo Viale Piave 1+39 02 76 00 52 68www.imarika.com
Imarika
Corso Sempione 88+39 02 31 31 77www.modaincontri.com
Boutique Incontri
Via Della Spiga 4+39 02 76 00 31 86www.giomoretti.com
Gio Moretti
Corso di Porta Romana 123+39 02 55 18 48 42www.suite123.it
Suite 123
Corso Garibaldi 50+39 02 36 63 91 81www.cbmadeinitaly.com
CB Made in Italy
Via Pasquale Paoli 1+39 02 36 56 64 94www.antonioli.eu
Antonioli
Corso Como 10+39 02 29 00 26 74www.10corsocomo.com
10 Corso Como
Corso Genova 6+39 02 83 11 60 1www.biffi.com
Biffi
4. Niche Natives
19
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
Fondazione Prada
New & Noteworthy in Milan
Culture, Food & Shopping
20
Fondazione PradaGood things come to those who wait, and in this case Milan finally has a vast culture compound that puts the city in the global contemporary art big leagues. Expertly exhibited across 17 striking buildings designed by Rem Koolhaas are hundreds of modern and contemporary artworks from Miuccia Prada and her husband Patrizio Bertelli’s private collection, including Damien Hirst, Louise Bourgeois and Robert Gober and pieces on loan from international art institutions. If wandering around the 19,000 square metres leaves you in need of fuel, enjoy an espresso (or cocktail) and a toasted panino at the Wes Anderson-designed canteen modeled on an old-school Milanese café.
Largo Isarco 2+39 02 56 66 26 11www.fondazioneprada.org
Viale Vincenzo Lancetti 34+39 02 36 59 08 00www.nilufar.com
Via della Spiga 32+39 02 78 01 93
Nilufar DepotWhat was once an oversized ex-industrial space that kept Milan Design Empress Nina Yashar’s most treasured overflow of design loot is now a full-on, full-sized three-story exhibition and display space spanning 1,500 square metres. Off the beaten track but well worth the trek from the city center, it will satisfy both art and design palettes that appreciate the greats like Gio Ponti and Ettore Sotsass as well as newer stars such as Martino Gamper and Massimiliano Locatelli. More central is Yashar’s beloved mainstay spot on Via Della Spiga 32, with a more limited but still brilliantly curated selection.
5. New & Noteworthy in Milan
21
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
Corso Magenta 65+39 02 48 16 150www.vignadileonardo.com
Museo Vigna di LeonardoOne of the most prestigious addresses in Milan, the Museo Vigna di Leonardo finally opened to the public this year. This hot spot is where the great master Da Vinci lived while painting The Last Supper and where remnants of his vineyard were recently uncovered. Famed mid-century Milanese architect Piero Portaluppi restored the property in the 19th century, and this year saw the first re-planting of the grape that Leonardo himself used.
Via Bergognone 40+39 02 91 63 00 10www.armanisilos.com
Armani SilosLeave it to Mr. Armani to turn a former Nestlé granary into a starkly designed, basilica-inspired space that now houses his fashion archive of over 40 years. Apart from the exhibition area currently showcasing over 300 garments and 200 accessories, the Silos has a digital archive of drawings, sketches and material dedicated to the Maestro of Minimalism, with a bespoke cataloging system.
Museo D’Arte Contemporanea di GallarateVia dei Magri 1+39 03 31 70 60 11www.museomaga.it
Missoni ExhibitionYou’ll be grateful for making the journey to Missoni, Art, Color, located in the town outside Milan where Ottavio and Rosita Missoni first set up their knitwear atelier over 50 years ago. The exhibition is a zigzagging, swirling and twisting celebration of color and designs that have inspired years of the family’s signature knitwear. Journalists and bloggers can email [email protected] to have their transportation arranged.
22
Viale Alemagna 6+39 02 72 43 41www.triennale.org
Triennale MuseumAfter checking out the impressive and thought-provoking Arts & Food exhibition in the museum’s main space, head upstairs for a light (and arguably pricey) meal in the fabulous new DesignCafé, which makes the entire Triennale experience a whole lot cooler. Or grab a quick but chic aperitivo on the garden terrace, where you can enjoy the view of Giorgio de Chirico’s Bagni Misteriosi, which finally has water in its fountains after 50 years.
Via Giosuè Borsi 9+39 02 83 41 33 02www.museiitaliani.org
Museo del DesignAs with many of Milan’s prized destinations, this temple of design requires a schlepp that will be duly rewarded. A total of 100 iconic design pieces from Italian and international masters tell the story of the last century, with important works from such icons as Achille Castiglioni, Arne Jacobsen and Charles Eames, and spanning movements from Art Nouveau to Memphis and Bauhaus.
Corso Concordia 8+39 02 76 02 38 73www.gongmilano.it
GONGSick of all of the pasta? This sleek spot just a stone’s throw from D&G’s HQs offers an Asian-inspired menu. The Japanese chef reinvents traditional Chinese and Italian dishes—we love the Wagyu Carpaccio and the insalata caprese made with tofu, ideal for the vegetarians.
5. New & Noteworthy in Milan
23
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
Via della Moscova 29+39 02 87 24 47 37www.wearepacifico.it
PacificoFinally, a spot hip enough even if you only want a cocktail. We recommend the classic Caipirinha, which makes a perfect companion for the inventive Peruvian-inspired food. (The ceviche-cum-dim-sum is a great alternative to all the pasta and osso bucco that dominate Milanese menus.) The colorful, jungle-inspired décor will make you feel like you’re the girl (or boy) in Ipanema.
Via Andegari 9+39 02 87 31 88 98www.mandarinoriental.com/milan/fine-dining/mandarin-bar
Mandarin Oriental BarMilan has a loyal following when it comes to posh accommodation but just as new seasons welcome new designers, there’s another player in the luxury hotel game. We love the new Mandarin Oriental not just for the sleek design but for the bar, set to become the new late-night hotspot in town. Delicious cocktails and bouncing DJ sets— all enjoyed in the lush garden—will make you feel miles outside of the city.
Via Monte Napoleone 9+39 02 86 27 70www.pasticceriamarchesi.it
MarchesiThe oldest original café in Milan—a beacon of Milanese propriety and (edible) excellence—has opened its second location in the heart of the city’s shopping center, thanks to Prada, its new owner. Expect the same traditional spirit and impeccable quality as the original, with the advantage of finally sitting down at a proper table to enjoy your frothy cappuccino, light lunch and evening Aperol spritz.
La Grande MadreMilan is saturated with praise of motherhood—hello, the bazillion Madonna and Child renderings across the city! But for something more modern, head to super-space Palazzo Reale to see the Trussardi Foundation’s latest mega-show. Among the 400 works filling the 29 exhibition rooms are gems by Frida Kahlo, Diane Arbus, Salvador Dali and Jeff Koons, all presented honestly (if not brutally!)
Palazzo RealePiazza del Duomo 12www.artpalazzoreale.it
24
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II+39 02 45 47 82 83www.usapavilion2015.net/schedule
James Beard American RestaurantEXPO is a hike, and there’s no time (or elastic waistlines) to sample all 100+ pavilions of food. Instead, pop into the terrace restaurant of this temporary but refined space in the Seven Stars Galleria Hotel to sample curated dishes from a roster of rotating chefs. All have been flown over from American hot spots spanning New York to New Orleans and promise to deliver the best in American cuisine.
Via Borgospesso 5+39 02 76 00 99 34www.bottegaveneta.com
Bottega Veneta Home StoreBottega Veneta’s third Milanese outpost is dedicated exclusively to its indulgent home collection—the only BV home shop in the world. Set within the coffered ceilings and 18th century frescoes of a former palazzo, the shop appeals as much for its historical location and soaring interiors as for its impeccably crafted beds, leather desks, lamps and hand-blown glass tabletop objects.
Piazza San Marco 3+39 02 89 01 16 46www.richardginori1735.com
Richard GinoriIf you ever wanted to see how a proper Milanese lunch or dinner spread should be laid out, look no further than Richard Ginori, whose porcelain housewares have been perfectly kept and maintained in Milanese pantries and china cabinets for years. The first new boutique since the brand was re-booted by Gucci, this place feels more museum than shop—but everything is for sale so get buying.
5. New & Noteworthy in Milan
25
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
Piazza Velasca 5+39 393 88 19 191www.livingdivani.it
Living Divani at Torre VelascaPiero Lissoni has designed a temporary terrace around architectural gem Torre Velasca’s perimeter. Visitors can pop by and not only view (and lounge in!) Lissoni’s custom-designed plywood benches and his iconic Frog Chair that he created for Living Divani, but also participate in what is part café, part Urban Zen forest smack in the city center. Check out the historical exhibit dedicated to the Torre on the ground floor.
Via Matteo Bandello 14+39 02 48 19 86 22www.martabibendum.it
MartaFor gorgeous, small plates in a setting that feels more like a home than a trattoria, head to Design Queen Rossana Orlandi’s new foodie spot next to her eponymous gallery and shop. Paola Navone spearheaded the design, so expect Nacho Carbonell with your plate of grilled octopus over the freshest vegetables. When you’re done with your meal, wander through Orlandi’s not-to-miss gallery interiors.
5. New & Noteworthy in Milan
26
Take Homea Milan Original
Our Favorite Locally-Made Goodies
Altalen
27
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
Via Sant’Orsola 4+39 32017 29 516, +39 335233963www.martaferri.it
Marta FerriFerri runs her couture atelier in the heart of 5Vie where she dreams up her bridal gowns and custom-made dresses for cool girls (take a close look at Beatrice Borromeo’s royal wedding for evidence), as well as jewelry and handbags. Make an appointment so you don’t leave Milan without one of her whimsical skirts in fabrics covered in cupcakes and oversized flowers.
Via Benvenuto Cellini 21+39 87 03 44 35www.altalen.it
AltalenBefore Kate Moss turned her head in a turban, there was Sophia Loren, who took a simple piece of cloth and made it into the chic fashion accessory. If you prefer something bespoke, Altalen is a dreamland of creativity where you can spend hours picking out your preferred fabric for the best cut, fit and look for you.
Via Lorenzo Mascheroni 12+39 02 46 33 25www.pupisolari.com
Corso Venezia 43+39 02 76 00 24 12www.pettinaroli.it
Pupi SolariDitta Raimondi di Pettinaroli Every Milanese wardrobe has something
from octogenarian oracle Pupi Solari’s eponymous shop, which includes closet staples from Massimo Alba and Alberto Biani and the favorite of the city’s social set: Aspesi. Visit the other two jewels in Solari’s crown: Host, for men, and her children’s shop under the Solari name proves good dressing in this town starts at a very young age.
For something quintessentially Milanese that will fit in your carry-on luggage home, swing by stationary staple Pettinaroli. Choose from a wide but curated range of paper goods including small diaries, folding cards and full-blown letterhead. Cartography buffs will appreciate the strong selection of antique maps for sale.
28
Piazza Paolo Ferrari 6+39 02 60 81 43 9www.porselli.it
Porselli Every ballerina from London to St. Petersburg knows the importance of a quality shoe, and this Milanese outpost has been outfitting La Scala’s ballerinas for years. Those who don’t know their plié from their pirouette, fear not: Porselli make a range of ballerina flats for normal life, and there’s no pre-requisite for being on point.
Via Augusto Anfossi 10+39 02 55 19 44 48www.eknam.com
Ernst Knam While you’re deciding which fetta di torta to have with your caffé (we love the pear-and- rosemary combo), have a look around this sugar-wonderland of a pasticceria and grab some snack-sized bags of dark cocoa-and-cherry or milk-and-hazelnut chocolates to bring home. The finest selection you will find outside of Switzerland.
Via Palermo 1+39 02 72 08 04 53www.societylimonta.com
Society Those convinced that a good night’s sleep is as crucial to the anti-aging process as a good night cream should head over to Society, where you can own the same linens and bedding preferred by the chicest women (and men!) in Milan. There’s a super soft range of bath towels and throw blankets to boot. Perfect for post Fashion Month Netflix Marathons on the sofa—just be prepared for sticker shock.
6. Take Home a Milan Original
29
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
Fuel-Up Between the Runway Action
Where to Eat Near Fashion Shows and Showrooms
T’A
30
Giorgio Armani…
Viale Piave, 17+39 02 76 34 05 04www.riadfoodgarden.com
Riad Garden CaféThis tiny, adorable café adjacent to the Hotel Diana and just across from the Metropol Theater show venue is a sweet refuelling spot if you want something healthy on-the-go. Cut back on the caffeine with their herbal teas and range of juices—the green goddess smoothie is our top pick.
To and from
Via Tortona 34+39 02 22 22 94 40www.godsavethefood.it
God Save the Food It’s hard to find anywhere that will serve you a fruity smoothie, let alone one in a plastic to-go cup. God Save the Food has that, as well as strong lattes and pocket-sized sandwiches to keep you going. Those with half an hour to spare before Armani can sit down for a salad and other non-panino options.
Max Mara show...Before or after the
7. Fuel-Up Between the Runway Action
31
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
presentation…
Via Monte Napoleone 13+39 02 76 39 48 32 www.ilsambuco.it
Bacaro del SambucoThis elegant lunch hub is not cheap, but it’s a favorite (semi-) hidden oasis for those busy shuffling up and down Montenapoleone. The tortelli di erbette and tuna carpaccio are two dishes you can count on to sustain you until you can pass out in your hotel room. Feel a cold coming on? The minestrone with fresh pesto is Italian penicillin.
Via Tortona 56+39 02 84 29 37 01www.mudecrestaurant.it
Mudec Hurrah! A proper meeting-and-eating spot finally comes to Zona Tortona, presenting top-notch, beautifully designed interiors and a stellar cocktail bar on the penthouse level of Milan’s new culture museum. Mudec’s got more than just looks, though: The on-site restaurant run by the folks at Da Giacomo is perfect for a business lunch or dinner. If you’re in a rush, try the casual café downstairs.
Missoni or Stella Jean…
Gianvito Rossi’s
On your way to Fendi,
Right after
32
Via Agostino Bertani 16+39 02 33 60 50 57www.piscomilano.com
PiscoThe menu here is limited but you have enough to keep track of with your hectic fashion week schedule. Sit back, take one of the daily specials and enjoy. Evergreens include the tuna tartare or the polpo con patate. All dishes pair beautifully with a chilled glass of Vermentino—so best if you’re not in a super-duper rush.
Via Alessandro Manzoni 5+39 02 89 09 69 50www.lartemilano.com
LARTEHead to this fancypants lunch place where the handsome businessman in the city choose to chow down between meetings. It’s high-end, divine Italian cuisine set in a bright but formal dining room—i.e., ideal if you have an expense account or a generous date.
presentation…
Post Versace...
After Valextra’s
7. Fuel-Up Between the Runway Action
33
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
En route to Marni…
Via Giuseppe Ponzio 82+39 02 23 60 29 6www.cuccagna.org
Cascina CuccagnaSavor a light lunch at this former farmstead turned family-friendly spot dating back to the 1700s. On a nice day, order a seasonal salad or fresh pasta outside on the wrap-around terrace. Come 6pm, they do a nice aperitivo—you’ll feel miles outside of Milan.
Via Clerici 1+39 02 87 38 61 30www.tamilano.com
T’AOwned by the two charming grandsons of historic patisserie family Alemagna, centrally located and divinely decorated by of-the-moment architect Vincenzo de Cotiis, T’A does first-rate modern Italian cuisine for lunch and dinner and desserts that will destroy your diet plans. It’s a crime to skip the homemade chocolates with your afternoon macchiato.
Palazzo Morando…the young designers in
After hitting up one of
34
After Alberta Ferretti…
Via Giuseppe Sirtori 34+39 02 27 72 34 44www.mimmomilano.it
Mimmo Tucked behind bustling Viale Premuda, elegant and sophisticated Mimmo can easily be mistaken for a private home. It’s a choice spot to linger over a range of Italian favorites such as beef tartare and pesce crudo. If the weather allows, take a pre-dinner (gin-based) cocktail on the patio.
Jil Sander…On your way to
Via Porlezza 2+39 02 87 51 07www.ristorantelabrisa.it/cucina-del-toro
Cucina del ToroNot far from the Castello Sforzesco, this uber-Italian locale recalls the charm and minimal-chicness of a modern country locanda. It’s all about tradition plates such as gnocchi, salted codfish, and Piedmont beef and cheeses complemented by a simple but curated wine list.
7. Fuel-Up Between the Runway Action
35
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
Coffee & Quick FoodWhere To Grab a Bite On-The-Go
Pavé
36
Via Felice Casati 27+39 02 94 39 22 59www.pavemilano.com
Corso Concordia 11+39 02 91 76 08 75www.pandenus.it
Via Perugino 1+39 02 36 51 52 88www.isaevane.wix.com/isaevane
Pavé
Pandenus
Isa e Vane
Not only the spot for the best cappuccino in town, Pavé never fails for a fresh lunch of big salads and substantial mains, and is equally reliable for a laid-back aperitivo. Passing on the homemade chocolates and pastries would be as bad skipping the Prada show.
In the ongoing, Best Brioche Debate in Milan, Pandenus always makes the list, despite being new (and a chain). It’s great for breakfast and equally appetizing for lunch (try the Greek salad). They also joined the juicing bandwagon if you need a vitamin boost.
This all-day café offers a little bit of everything, from small bites to big plates, and its cute décor and varied menu is the result of a young Argentine and an Italian woman at the helm. Take a fresh juice and some muesli for a kick-start breakfast or pop by later for an offbeat aperitivo spread of mixed mezze and robust selection of vino.
8. Coffee & Quick Food
37
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
Via Ludovico Muratori 11+39 02 45 49 10 88www.abbottega.com
Abbottega
Via Larga 19+39 02 39 81 17 50www.californiabakery.it
California BakeryDesperate times call for desperate measures and sometimes you just need a big, fat chocolate chip cookie while you dash from one show to the next. For the dairy averse this is one of the few Milanese places that let you order a soy latte to go. If time allows, the Caesar salad is killer.
With the feel of a mom-and-pop trattoria but contemporary like a mini-market (they take credit cards!), Abbottega is a convenient stop for fast, fresh food that tastes like grandma’s but looks like something that grand cuoco Cracco could cook up.
Corso Italia 6+39 02 84 56 05 30www.fluidfreshfood.it
FluidFluid has brought the dearly beloved New York-style salad bar to Milan. The freshness doesn’t end there: sushi, soups and fruit and veggie smoothies are all on offer and available to go in a range of sizes for the not-so-hungry (XS) to those with an appetite as big as a Giambattista Valli ball gown (XL).
38
Via Ponte Vetero 10+39 02 72 01 60 67www.princi.it
Princi Those looking to avoid carbs, beware: Princi is a treasure trove of dough-based delights, from morning brioche to that olive baton breadstick you crave at 3pm. We also love the thin-crusted focaccia. One of the few places in Milan that also sells single apples and oranges—fast snacks for the fashionista.
Via Panfilo Castaldi 21+39 02 89 05 85 75www.mantrarawvegan.com
Mantra Raw VeganStop the presses! Kale has come to Milan, and it’s in a variety of plates. Open from breakfast through dinner, this vegan rarity serves uber-healthy foods including a spaghetti substitute, zoodles, made from zucchini. Beyond the wide range of herbal teas, they even sell coal to add to your water for a total cleansing situation.
Via Durini 26+39 02 76 02 42 37www.paninidurini.it
Panini Durini The Matcha cappuccino has arrived to Milan—snag one at this otherwise tiny and easy-to-miss spot within the madness of San Babila. In an area overrun by crowds, tourists and a McDonald’s (the horror!) thank God you can bag a fresh sandwich or simple salad here.
8. Coffee & Quick Food
39
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
Trattoria Arlati
Where the MilaneseMangiano
But Should Check Out!! Restaurants You Probably Don’t Know
40
Via Savona 23+39 02 89 40 49 78www.trattoriaauroramilano.it
Via Savona 50+39 02 49 53 36 30www.alfrescomilano.it
Trattoria Aurora
Al Fresco
For those who didn’t secure a table at the fashion-packed and over-priced Langosteria, there’s a simple and elegant alternative just down the street, complete with starched white tablecloths. Traditional Italian dishes like bollito and cotoletta come with an extensive wine list served by waiters from another era.
This old factory is now a sleek design conversion serving small plates for lunch and dinner in a glass-walled interior and on an extensive back terrace in the heart of Zona Tortona (a.k.a., Armani-Zegna land). A good bottle of Ribolla Gialla goes with the fish and pasta-centric menu, which changes with the season.
Via Mercato 14+39 02 39 66 35 61
Sibilla PizzeriaApart from this week’s glorious High Fashion, let us not forget Italy’s other realm of excellence: pizza. Indulge in it at this wallet-friendly local favorite in otherwise upmarket Brera. Enjoy hot, wood-fired oven classics such as a margherita or the diavola. If you’re feeling extra cheese-y take one of the massive calzoni.
9. Where the Milanese Mangiano
41
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.comVia San Marco 5+39 02 29 06 10 51www.ristorantetime.it
Timé Café Owned by one of Brera’s best-dressed proprietors, Italo Manca, Timé offers sophisticated options such as a filet of beef or a slab of fresh fish. A dedicated vegetarian menu includes a banging burrata served with fresh plum tomatoes alongside ravioli di magro. A perfect civilized lunch spot.
Via Alberto Nota 47+39 02 64 33 27www.trattoriaarlati.it
Trattoria Arlati This cozy trattoria is a mix of bric-a-brac art and taxidermy that contrast with the white tablecloths and otherwise sleek table design. The food is old school—rabbit thighs are served alongside pappardelle with porcini and buttery snails—but it hits the nail on the head of Milanese classics.
Via Pietro Moscati 13+39 02 36 74 41 72Menu is available via facebook page
Aromando BistrotYou have to ring a bell to enter this vintage-inspired restaurant where no two plates, cups, glasses or forks are the same. It’s a bit pricey for what it is- simple, traditional, Italian food- and it is a bit offpieced from the city center but the experience is totally worth it.
42
Via Pier Candido Decembrio 33+39 02 45 48 70 32www.ubarba.it
Via Laura Solera Mantegazza 2+39 02 65 42 04
U Barba
Al Matarel
Via Solferino 33+39 02 63 79 34 14www.drymilano.it
Dry Those looking for a drinks menu as colorful as a Dolce & Gabbana cocktail dress, should head to Dry. We love the French 75 and the Hanky Panky and the crispy flatbreads are a lifesaver when you’re already half way through your second.
Via Bernardino Corio 8+39 02 55 19 00 20
Pasta MadreAs the name suggests, this is where to give into your pasta cravings. Six different tempting versions are served daily, such as chitarre con zucchine, pesto and shrimp and ravioli filled with eggplant and ricotta. The soft-as-a-pillow panettone may put you over the edge but cut it with a grappa and a caffé.
If you’re looking to dodge dough-ball city, this casual charmer isn’t for you. Otherwise, indulge in rich deliciousness like trofie con pesto, and then waddle out to the bocce court in the back garden-meets-terrace area.
If you wish you had Italian grandparents who cooked for you, head on over to this Brera favorite. Make room for filling portions of osso buco with saffron risotto as well as polpo con patate—there’s nothing stylish about the presentation but after all of those miniscule nibbles throughout the week you’ll want something that tastes like the equivalent of a big, fat, Italian hug.
9. Where the Milanese Mangiano
43
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
Beauty & Wellness S.O.S.!
Sugar Wax Via Legnano 6+39 02 89 28 30 81www.sugarwax.it
I need a lipwax!Head on over to Sugar Wax, where the “peel off” approach from Brazil is popular with the young, sporty crowd and is much gentler than the hot wax and cotton strip situation. It’s fast and cheap, so ignore the less-than-dapper décor.
Four Seasons Spa MilanoVia Gesù 6/8+39 02 77 0 88www.fourseasons.com/it/milan/spa
I need more than just my lip waxed! For some solitude in the city center, ask for Jasmin at the Four Seasons hotel, who will sort you out in no time. The services aren’t cheap but the herbal teas, fresh fruit and overall Zen atmosphere will be just the boost you need.
Hohm Street Yoga Via San Calocero 3+39 338 17 48 044www.hohmstreetyoga.com
Christina Curry +39 334 28 94 186 www.christinacurry-yoga.com
Where can I find a good Vinyasa Flow? Hop in a taxi to Hohm Street Yoga for a session with Marco that will get you focused and feeling great. For private lessons, call our go-to American girl Christina Curry for Hatha, Meditation and a range of other invaluable services.
What To Do When Emergency Strikes
44
Bahama Mama Via Col di Lana 1+39 02 89 40 45 38www.bahamamama.it
Oditza- Manicures on Demand+39 334 227 46 30
I broke a nail!If you need a manicure and feel like staying for a pedicure in a proper poltrona (i.e., massaging armchair like you find stateside), make your way to Bahama Mama. There’s a coffee and juice bar to stave off those low-blood-sugar cravings. And if you cannot make it out of your hotel room and have an hour and a half to spare, give Oditza a call—she will sort you out!
Milanimal Via Lodovico Muratori [email protected]
I’m used to getting my butt kicked every day in New York… where do I go in Milan?You may be in a different time zone but that doesn’t mean you’re on exercise vacation. Milanimal offers a wide range of classes that include kickboxing, Jiu Jitsui, Cross Fit and weight lifting. Warning: Most of the instructors look like The Rock so prepare to be worked to the bone.
Davide Diodovich StudioVia Torquato Tasso 4+39 02 89 28 34 20www.davidediodovich.it
I thought I arrived perfectly coiffed but then I saw at Caroline Issa and now I feel totally lame!Look no further than The Hair Godfather, Davide Diodovich, whose gorgeous apartment-turned-studio space will make you never want to leave. For color emergencies, ask for Susanna. You’ll leave looking cover girl ready.
10. Beauty & Wellness S.O.S.!
Scuola di Ashtanga Yoga Viale Emilio Caldara 9+39 02 55 19 10 17www.astangamilano.it
How do I get a rockin’ bod and tan like Anna Dello Russo’s pronto?Hop on over to Scuola di Ashtanga Yoga and start saluting the sun with vigor. Meanwhile, for the tan look no further than a bottle of Clarins Crème Solari, ladies (yep, that’s the brand she uses!). Available at just about every farmacia from here to Monza.
45
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
Ceresio7Via Ceresio 7+39 02 31 03 92 21www.ceresio7.com
I’m exhausted and want to pass out in front of a pool.SoHo house has not arrived in Milan just yet, but we’ll let you in on a little secret: head on up to Ceresio7 where you can lounge at the rooftop pool all day while being served fresh fruit and snacks to accompany a range of cocktails. Your bar and food tab will thankfully be deducted from the 100 euro entrance fee.
BullFrog Barber ShopVia Dante 4+39 02 89 09 61 63www.bullfrogbarbershop.it
Antica Barbieria CollaVia Gerolamo Morone 3+39 02 87 43 12www.anticabarbieriacolla.it
I used to fancy a man with facial hair but then I saw Justin O’Shea with a face as smooth as a baby’s bottom!
Send your man (or any man) over to Bull Frog for a hip trim or shave.A more classic alternative is Antica Barbieria Colla, where all of the bearded (and scruffy sorts) go.
10. Beauty & Wellness S.O.S.!
Mazzolari Corso Monforte 2+39 02 76 00 00 63www.mazzolari.info
I left my hairdryer and tweezers back in New York! Super close to San Babila, highly curated, underground beauty supply haven Mazzolari has everything from industry insider-approved tools to quality conditioners and Mason Pearson brushes. There’s also high-end night creams and make-up to help conceal jetlag.
46
Get Your Dose of Milanese High Design
Design Destinations
Dimore Studio
46
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
47
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
Dimore Studio
BassamFellows at Exits Gallery
Britt Moran and Emiliano Salci are the young darlings of Milan’s design scene. Everything they touch—from highly collectible mid-century furniture by Gio Ponti and Albini to their own furniture, lighting and carpet designs—comes to brilliant life in their former apartment-turned-hot-design-gallery in the heart of Brera. It’s easy to forget this is a place of business, but everything you see or sit on is for sale, so bring your Amex and don’t count the number of zeros on the price tag.
Connecticut-based designers Scott Fellow and Craig Bassam have set up their first gallery shop dedicated to their modern vision of good old-fashioned timber. Here you’ll find their signature tractor stools as well as footwear and eyewear for men. Metal objects, lighting and intriguing glassware is produced by Produzione Privata, the niche label from their architect neighbor Michele de Lucchi.
Via Solferino 11+39 02 36 53 70 88www.dimorestudio.eu
Via Varese 14+39 02 36 79 91 06 3www.bassamfellows.com
48
Spazio 900 Unlike its more stylish and sleek design-shop counterparts, this is an un-slick warehouse off the beaten track but chocker-block full of mid-century goods. You have to be willing to roll up your sleeves and weed through the selection, but there’s always a gem to be found amongst the loot. Brian Atwood and Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s studios are just around the corner.
Viale Campania 51+39 02 70 12 57 37www.spazio900.net Memphis Post Design
Gallery This shop is the Minimalist’s Kryptonite—brimming with brilliantly colored glass pieces from super designer and Memphis leader Ettore Sottsass as well as blindingly-bright furniture from his contemporaries. It feels like a playground but design aficionados will appreciate the extent to which important pieces like the Carlton table and Rivolo chair are celebrated here as re-editions.
Via della Moscova 27+39 02 65 54 47 31www.memphis-milano.it
11. Design Destination
49
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
Il Valore Aggiunto
Raimondo Garau
Managed by two chic Italian sisters, this loft conversion opens onto a quintessentially Milanese courtyard and is full of seductive antique and modern furniture, lamps and decorative objects. It is more private lounge than dusty, over-crowded shop, and the vast selection of textiles could easily keep you busy shopping for the entire day.
Antique, vintage and modern furnishings come together in a large, bright showroom that will inspire even ardent feng shui believers to re-do their entire home or office in the stile Italiano. Owner Garau has impeccable taste and presents jumbles of mixed-style chairs, tables, lamps and carpets in intriguing tableaux.
Via Mameli 3+39 02 74 40 76www.ilvaloreaggiunto.it
Via Varese 20+39 02 65 99 91 3www.raimondogarau.com
50
Azucena
FornasettiFornasetti is stuffed like an Aladdin’s cave, with re-edition booty from the surreal designer’s glittering mid-century career as well as newly designed items from his son Barnaba. There is pattern and product everywhere you look—let yourself get dizzy over the swirling cloud wallpaper, butterfly covered tables and trompe l’oeil umbrella stands.
Founded in 1947 by mid-century architectural gods Ignazio Gardella and Luigi Caccia Dominioni, this sophisticated little shop carries re-editions of classic pieces from the ’50s and ’60s. Known for iconic pieces from crescent-shaped velvet side chairs to sensationally simple brass doorknobs that populate top Milanese homes, Azucena is a humble altar for some of Italy’s most coveted design objects.
Corso Giacomo Matteotti 1/A+39 02 89 65 80 40www.fornasetti.com
Via Manzoni 23+39 02 78 19 26www.azucena.it
11. Design Destination
51
Curated by LaD
oubleJ.com
How
to L
ive
Like
an
Italia
n On Cappuccinos: Don’t order one after 11am. It’s a total no-no. Most Milanese drink them standing up at the bar, not at a table or else they (and you) pay double. Also, a Milanese only drinks 1 per day. The rest are shots of espresso or macchiattos only.
On Ordering: There’s only one correct way to order in a café: Check out the pastries or sandwiches in the display, order and pay at the cashier, then bring your receipt to the barman, who will serve you at the bar.
On Lunch: Don’t try to have lunch during the off-hours of 2:30 to 7:30 p.m. No one wants to serve you then. The good news is that most of the city’s classic cafés such as Cova, Bastianello, St. Ambroeus and Cucchi all serve a mean lunch in addition to coffee.
On Service: These are Latin men you are dealing with, so flirt your ass off ladies! You will be astounded by the results.
On Tipping: A proper Milanese will leave a 10 euro bill at the end of a meal (a proper one, not a quick bite at a café when the service has been good or they know the owner). If you’re euro-less, don’t sweat it—an Italian is happy to be flashed a big smile and engaged in some witty conversation on your way out the door.
The
DO
’s a
nd D
ONT
’s o
f Mila
nese
Etiq
uett
e
52
On the Aperitivo: The Milanese invented the mini-meal before dinner. Order any drink from 6pm onwards and it comes with a complimentary plate piled high with small portions of risotto, prosciutto, mozzarella, crudité and olives.
On the Farmacia: It’s almost impossible to buy milk or bread past 6pm but you can buy anti-cellulite cream at 10pm on a Tuesday. Be sure to ask the farmacista to whip you up some of their house specialties, which range from night creams and anti-wrinkle cures to homemade perfumes and bath salts.
On Naming: It’s perfectly acceptable to refer to people by their last names. If it’s a female, add a “la” for extra local oomph. For example: “The show won’t start until La Sozzani is settled with her blonde locks in the front row.”
On Driving: Don’t freak out on your driver. Don’t be alarmed if he parks on the sidewalk or guns it down the wrong way of a one-way street. Italians are creative but excellent drivers.
On Gym Clothes: The reason the Milanese are all staring at you is because you’re wearing gym clothes in broad daylight. Do as the natives do and change into and out of your workout gear at the gym.
On Smoking: Everyone here does it. Everywhere. Get over it.
On Pasta: Put Parmiggiano on any pasta you like except those with seafood. Italians never mix seafood and cheese.
On Wine: Proper Milanese women always let the men pour and serve the vino. Remember to make eye contact with everyone you clink your glasses with. Duh.
On Wi-Fi: Don’t ask the 90-year-old café owner if he’s got Wi-Fi. He doesn’t. Do what the Italians do and spend 10 minutes without your computer and chitchat with the barman instead.
On Take-away: The Milanese do not appreciate doggie bags or coffee to-go. You can ask for either, but be prepared to raise more than a few eyebrows. It’s much better to go home satisfied with the food you managed to finish at the table or be late (in which case you can always blame it on the slow barman who made your espresso).
Your Fail-Safe Key Phrase During Fashion Week: Che Casino! To be used when chaos strikes, whether bad traffic or 1,000 people trying to shove into the Philipp Plein show.
12. How to Live Like an Italian
Editor-in-Chief / Creative Director: J.J. MartinConsulting Editor: Zoe Wolff
Art Director: Beatriz Lamarca, Frank StudioIllustrations: Liselotte Watkins
Writer / Content Coordinator: Meredith NicholsGraphic Designer: Ziqi HU, Frank Studio
Intern: Elisa Carassai
LaDoubleJ.com!
Brought to you byContent and Creativity
