SHINING LIGHT ON SKIN TONE

Independent Lighting Research Presented by Claire Hamill and Anna Sandgren ILP Summit, Brighton 2016

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Lighting for cosmetic concessions within retail environments

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Multiple Lighting Design requirements

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Shinning light on skintone

Claire Hamill Lighting designer Multiple Lighting design requirements

Seeing true colours is simply essential.

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Multi billion pound industry world wide.

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The importance of foundation

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Investigating artificial lighting in cosmetic departments

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Investigating artificial lighting in cosmetic departments Where did it start?

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Lighting was not adequate for seeing colours or matching foundations

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Lighting was not adequate for seeing colours or matching foundations Product displays did not stand out from there surroundings

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Lighting was not adequate for seeing colours or matching foundations Biggest customer complaint

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Physical and emotional connection within the retail space

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A global retail lighting issue What LED light source can enhance and improve the experience of skin and skin care products within the cosmetic retail environment?

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A global retail lighting issue What LED light source can enhance and improve the experience of skin and skin care products within the cosmetic retail environment?

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PHASE I FIELD RESEARCHUndertaken in 5 flagship department stores in central London

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Key considerations:

Colour Matching of foundation

Emotional connection in the space to encourage dwell time

Illumination of merchandise

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Key findings were: Each department store reported various difficulties with matching colour foundation and choosing colours due to the overhead lighting.

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Key findings were:

Consultants stated that a common practice is to send customers outside with a hand held mirrors, to review colour matching in daylight, in order to secure a best match colour for the costumer.

*Consultants stated that a common practice is to send customers outside with a hand held mirrors, to review colour matching in daylight, in order to secure a best match colour for the costumer.

This is obviously not idela since in some consessions are tucked away on the retail floor and many costumers will have to embark on this journey to the daylight without the consultant that will have to stay on the shopfloor.

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Mounting mirrors next to window to utilise daylight

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Colour shift of conventional metal halide lighting

*We also found a lot of inconsistencies of light sources used and a shift in colour temperature in some areas which caused an uneven rendering of the merchandise*

Missed visual merchandise opportunities

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The lighting is so poor in certain areas that the product are either not illuminated at all or not completing of the merchandise or the other brand VM opportunities. . *

Lighting that makes you look unhealthy and unwell

*As you can see in the images some lighting conditions can almost make you look unhealthy and at least feel vey unwell. Here Claire is looking almost a bit red while Im in a different part of the store is looking green almost blueis. .

This is obviously not a great start when you are in the store to buy products, the cosmetic industry try to encourage dwell time but in these current lighting conditions you are likely to leave the store before youve made your purchase. *

PHASE II FOCUS GROUP

Industry feedback; 30 visual merchandiser, store designers and make up consultants from 8 leading cosmetic brands.

*Taking info from fields research

Phase 2: Focus group research workshop 30 visual merchandiser and store designers, 8 leading cosmetic brands discussion group / workshop.

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LED modules with different spectral power disruptions for further testing PHASE III PILOT DAYExperiment in real life set up conditions Cosmetic company London HQ

*Phase 3. Experiment results of the field research and the focus group.

The objective was to determine which of the six light sources was best suited for 1. colour matching 2 customer dwell time 3 making mercgindise stand out *

The experiment room setup.

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Location : HQ labs in central London. Layout : Designed to correlate with the three key lighting issues and to accommodate proper testing of the 6 selected light sources.

Room divided into 4 stations:Station 1 consisted of initial participant briefing and colour consultation.Station 2 was initial observation of colour matching under daylight. Stations 3 and 4 comprised of the testing of the 3 key lighting issues which were colour matching, product display and emotional connection under the 6 selected light sources. *

LED modules with different spectral power disruptions for further testing

*AND THE Light Sources THAT WE USED The six light sources selected for the pilot day consisted of 3 Xicato Artist series modules, each at 2700K, 3000K and 4000K respectively, all with CRI of 97. Two others were from the Xicato Vibrant series at 2700K and 3000K, with larger gamut area both with a CRI of 97 and the last source was a CREE module at 6500K, with CRI of 85.*

6 Different Light Sources

*The six light sources selected for the pilot day consisted of

3 Xicato Artist series modules, 2700K, 3000K and 4000K respectively, all with CRI of 97.

One Xicato Vibrant series at 3000K, CRI of 97

One addational module with larger gamut 2700k CRI of 97

the last source was a CREE module at 6500K six thousand five hundred, with CRI of 85.

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Colour Matching

*Station 1.

(1.) Best match (2.) Second best match (3.) Third best match. Best match was then agreed between colour consultant and Participant in day light conditions, this would then identify any changes or distortions of foundation shade against skin tone under artificial light, for example. Third best match in daylight may change to best match under light source 2. due to colour discrimination. In turn this will highlight what light source is best and worst for the task. *

Emotional connections, How you feel under each light source.

*To understand the importance of emotional connection, the participants were each given a mirror to review how they looked and felt in daylight. This step was also repeated in Zones 3 & 4.*

Product display: how they feel the merchandise display looks under each scene. .

*Merchandise Appearance

Subjects were asked to rate the appearance of the products under different light sources. *

The Questionnaire

*Not to go in to too much detail however I would like to point a few key elements on how we designed the questionnaire

The questionnaire was designed to cover three different subjects; foundation-skin colour matching, general mood and skin appearance and merchandise appearance under different light conditions.*

ANALYSIS STATISTICS

*Following the pilot day,

the results of the questionnaires where collated and analysis by satiations at UCL.

The light source that came out best over all in all sections was the 2700K gumet area high cri 97 plus

Our initial intension was to define the existing problems and try to find a solution that would better improve the current lighting howeverresults far exceeded our expectations which was the introduction of a new LED module by Xicatio

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COLOUR MATCHING RESULTS .

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Question 1:2700 K 95+ and 2700 K Beauty are significantly more preferred than other sources by subjects, p0.05.6500 K 85 and 4000 K 95+ are the least preferred of lamps in this category, p

2700 K 95+ and 2700 K Vib are significantly more preferred than other sources by subjects, p

GENERAL MOOD AND APPEARANCE RESULTS

*The second set of questions aimed to assess subjects mood and judgment of skin appearance under different lighting conditions. *

How does the light make your skin feel?

The results have been categorised into positive and negative points. The results are significantly different between all light sources except two least preferred light sources.

Best Worst2700 K 95+ Beauty > 2700 K 95+ > 3000 K 95+ > 3000 K Vib > (6500 K 85 & 4000 K 95+)

*Subjects were asked regarding the impact of light on their skin appearance. The data have been categorised into positive and negative points (Figure 4). The results show that 2700 K Vibrant is the best light according to the subjects, p0.05.*

MERCHANDISE APPEARANCE RESULTS

*Merchandise Appearance

Subjects were asked to rate the appearance of the products under different light sources. *

Figure 8 rating of product appearance under the different light sourcesHow do the products appear under the light source?6500 K 85 is the best preferred and 4000 K 95+ the least preferred, p 2700 K 95+ Beauty & 3000 K Vib & 3000 K 95+ > 2700 K Vib > 4000 K 95+

*The results show that 6500 K 85 is the best preferred and 4000 K 95+ the least preferred light source, p

Figure 9 : Impact of light source on appearance of the colours of the packaging of the productsAgain 6500 K 85 is the best preferred but 3000 K 95+ is the least preferred, p 2700 K 95+ Beauty > 3000 K Vib > 2700 K Vib > 4000 K 95+ > 3000 K 95+

*Subjects were asked to describe the colour of packaging and products using multiple choice answers. The results were divided into positive and negative points. 6500 K 85 was reported the most preferred gaining 54% positive points and 3000 K 95+ was reported the least preferred gaining only 20% positive points, p

Color Vector DiagramRf = 91Rg = 107Ra = 95 100% Beauty 50% Beauty / 50% Artist 100% ArtistBlending Beauty Series with Artist 3,000K

PHASE IV LONGITUDINAL STUDY

*After months of development, with constant dialog and testing between the team,

a set of LED modules were created that allowed for final testing with the same 3 step criteria as the pilot day, these again were colour matching, merchandise display and emotional connection.

The final module was collectively chosen by the team resulting in the conceptualization of Xicatos Beauty module. *

Lighting that attracts customers in the first place

*a new concept store in Covent Garden,

Installated LED Module using design skill for appication lighting

1. Lighting that attracts customers in the first place Welcoming .engaging *

Merchandise that stands out against its surroundings

*2. Merchandise that stands out against its surroundings *

Lighting that creates an emotional connection within the space

*A lighting design that evokes an emotional connection within the space and the brand

that stimulates a feeling of health and wellbeing, encouraging dwell time and engaging the customer*

Lighting that aids correct colour matching

*A lighting design that that aids colour matching with an improved quality of light , creating a flawless brand experience.

Our research identified that in environments where you look in the mirror and reflect on yourself and inner being, for example changing rooms, toilets in public spaces, restaurants were you have mirrors, cosmetic counters, you become emotionally connected to the environment and self aware of your presents with in the space

Creating an emotional connection with the environment, through lighting as a responsive tool, to build connection with your surroundings. Previously lighting reaching and technologies has looked at who to the build environment but what about the human factor, what about us now are looking at also light on humans with in the space and we best light them making lighting personalhopfully this research will help other designers and retails better improve the lighting condtionssharing of information will not just help us but help improve the industry in stores

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Thank you

Independent lighting research conducted by NultyIn collaboration with Clinique and UCLSupported by Xicatio and Mike Stoane Lighting

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**Consultants stated that a common practice is to send customers outside with a hand held mirrors, to review colour matching in daylight, in order to secure a best match colour for the costumer.

This is obviously not idela since in some consessions are tucked away on the retail floor and many costumers will have to embark on this journey to the daylight without the consultant that will have to stay on the shopfloor.

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**We also found a lot of inconsistencies of light sources used and a shift in colour temperature in some areas which caused an uneven rendering of the merchandise**

The lighting is so poor in certain areas that the product are either not illuminated at all or not completing of the merchandise or the other brand VM opportunities. . **As you can see in the images some lighting conditions can almost make you look unhealthy and at least feel vey unwell. Here Claire is looking almost a bit red while Im in a different part of the store is looking green almost blueis. .

This is obviously not a great start when you are in the store to buy products, the cosmetic industry try to encourage dwell time but in these current lighting conditions you are likely to leave the store before youve made your purchase. **Taking info from fields research

Phase 2: Focus group research workshop 30 visual merchandiser and store designers, 8 leading cosmetic brands discussion group / workshop.

**Phase 3. Experiment results of the field research and the focus group.

The objective was to determine which of the six light sources was best suited for 1. colour matching 2 customer dwell time 3 making mercgindise stand out **

Location : HQ labs in central London. Layout : Designed to correlate with the three key lighting issues and to accommodate proper testing of the 6 selected light sources.

Room divided into 4 stations:Station 1 consisted of initial participant briefing and colour consultation.Station 2 was initial observation of colour matching under daylight. Stations 3 and 4 comprised of the testing of the 3 key lighting issues which were colour matching, product display and emotional connection under the 6 selected light sources. **AND THE Light Sources THAT WE USED The six light sources selected for the pilot day consisted of 3 Xicato Artist series modules, each at 2700K, 3000K and 4000K respectively, all with CRI of 97. Two others were from the Xicato Vibrant series at 2700K and 3000K, with larger gamut area both with a CRI of 97 and the last source was a CREE module at 6500K, with CRI of 85.**The six light sources selected for the pilot day consisted of

3 Xicato Artist series modules, 2700K, 3000K and 4000K respectively, all with CRI of 97.

One Xicato Vibrant series at 3000K, CRI of 97

One addational module with larger gamut 2700k CRI of 97

the last source was a CREE module at 6500K six thousand five hundred, with CRI of 85.

**Station 1.

(1.) Best match (2.) Second best match (3.) Third best match. Best match was then agreed between colour consultant and Participant in day light conditions, this would then identify any changes or distortions of foundation shade against skin tone under artificial light, for example. Third best match in daylight may change to best match under light source 2. due to colour discrimination. In turn this will highlight what light source is best and worst for the task. **To understand the importance of emotional connection, the participants were each given a mirror to review how they looked and felt in daylight. This step was also repeated in Zones 3 & 4.**Merchandise Appearance

Subjects were asked to rate the appearance of the products under different light sources. **Not to go in to too much detail however I would like to point a few key elements on how we designed the questionnaire

The questionnaire was designed to cover three different subjects; foundation-skin colour matching, general mood and skin appearance and merchandise appearance under different light conditions.**Following the pilot day,

the results of the questionnaires where collated and analysis by satiations at UCL.

The light source that came out best over all in all sections was the 2700K gumet area high cri 97 plus

Our initial intension was to define the existing problems and try to find a solution that would better improve the current lighting howeverresults far exceeded our expectations which was the introduction of a new LED module by Xicatio

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**The collected data was pooled and analysed statistically. The assumption of normality was denied, p