WHY CHEMICAL PEELS ARE AWESOME

by Valeriya Semenyuk

AGENDA

WHAT IS IT?

WHY BOTHER?

A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY

HOW DOES IT WORK?

CLASSIFICATION & TAXONOMY

HOW DO I START?

SIDE EFFECTS

WHAT ARE CHEMICAL PEELS?

Accelerated form of exfoliation

Can be performed on face, back and hands

Using destructive chemical agents or a solution

Creates a controlled wound

Speeds up the natural migration process of skin cells

Strength and depth matter

WHY BOTHER?

FAST RESULTS

ECONOMICAL & EASY, BUT…

YOU NEED TO KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING

A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY

Started 5000 years ago. Ancient Egyptian used particles of alabaster mixed with milk and honey.Cleopatra bathed in sour milk.

French women applied fermented wine to their faces to improve the quality of skin

1882: physician started to use phenol. German dermatologist reported using salicylic acid, resorcinol, phenol and TCA.

1930-40s Chemical peels come to US from France

1990s 50% salicylic acid was reported satisfactory results on hands and forearms of patient with actinic ally induced pigmentation changes.

HOW IT WORKS:

•Chemical exfoliation and peels are a way to speed up the

natural migration process of skin cells. Dissolve the bonds

between cells . The shedding skin cells send signals for more

cell division, which in turn forces keratinocytes to the top of the

stratum corneum.

• It uses an enzyme and acids to help speed up the breakdown

of keratin, which is the protein in skin

CLASSIFICATION OF CHEMICAL PEELS

Superficial peels

Medium peels

Deep peels

Buffered

Nonbuffered

SUPERFICIAL PEELS

Enzymes (Papain, pumpkin, pineapple)

AlphaHydroxyAcid agents ( Lactic, glycolic, malic, tartic, citric)

BetaHydroxyAcid agents (Salicylic acid)

Azelaic acid (15%) - lightening

Flower acid - hibiscus chalices

Jessners - salicilyc, lactic, resorcinol at 14%

Acetic acid - red wine vinegar, antioxidant

Retinol - retinoic acid

TCA - Lower %

MEDIUM TO DEEP PEELS

Baker-Gordon formula - phenol, croton oil, septisol soap

Medical TCA - Trichloracetic acid - penetrates into dermis

Phenol Acid - 88% solution

ANATOMY OF THE SKIN

SKIN ANATOMY

ENZYME PEEL:PAPAIN, PUMPKIN, PINEAPPLE

Derived from fruit juices

Very superficial stratum corneum

Good for Sensitive, dry and dehydrated skin, acneic skin

(which does not tolerate other types of peels), aging, fine

lines, superficial hyperpigemntation

Excellent for home care

LACTIC, MALIC, TARTARIC ACIDS

Lactic acid - derived from sour milk, one of the lightest in

AHA family

Malic acid - derived from apples, light peel, it can open

pores, positive effect on acne

Tartaric acid - derived from grapes

All good for dry, dehydrated skin, sensative, excellent for

home care

GLYCOLIC ACID

Derived from a fruit acid derived from sugar cane

Three basic strength: 30% (sensative, dry skin or oily),40% (dry, dehydrated, normal skin), 50% (maturing skin, faster results)

Water-soluble, great penetration due to small size molecule

Loosing up horny layer and exfoliate superficial level of skin, stimulate collagen growth

Has to be neutral to stop action because can cause irritation turn white “frosting”

Nonbuffering solution of Glycol acid only for doctors use.

“FROSTING” during using a glycolic peel or Jester peel, it happens due to keratin protein denaturation

SALICYLIC ACID

BHA : found in willow bark, wintergreen leaves, sweet birch, but manufacture synthetically from sodium phenolate

Gold standart in cosmetic enhancement of facial skin

Excellent keratolytic agent

It is oil soluble and can penetrate lipid plug in congested follicle

Less irritating then glycolic acid, doesn’t alter protective properties of the skin

Antimicrobial properties - has a strong comedolytic effect

Anti-inflammatory properties

Strength: 20%, 30%

Good for acne vulgaris,enlarged pores, rough and oily skin,photoaging, hyper pigmentation

Good for Fitzpatrick type III

Not good for people with allergy to Salicylic component

JESSNER’S PEEL

Solution combination: 14% Saliculic acid, 14% resorcinol,

14% lactic acid in ethanol base

penetrates deeper then stratum corneum

good for people who already experienced in using chemical

peels

Good for acne, oily skin.

RETINOIC ACID

Derives from retinoids, which is denatured vitamin A

Deeper peel

Used for scars as well as wrinkles and pigmentation

problems

It usually used in conjunction with other acids to a cause

peeling at deeper level

TRICHLOROACETIC ACID (TCA)

Chemical coagulant, works by coagulation of skin proteins

Can be used in deferent strength and abilities to penetrate

past papillary dermis and should be used with caution

at 25% can be used as a superficial peel. at 30-40% -

medium depth, 50%- only MD due to really high risk of

complications. at 35% used in the Obagi Blue Peels.

HOW DO I START?

1.Pick the best peeling agent and peel solution for the job:

Know all pros and cons of all agents

Analyze client’s skin (type, aging, condition or problem)

2.Use proper tools:

Woods lamp

Moisture reading device

3.Learn classification - helps choosing perfect peel.

4.Do proper pre- and post- peel job.

FITZPATRICK SKIN TYPE

Glogau

Photodamage

classification

Rubin

photodamage

classification

RUBIN PHOTODAMAGE CLASSIFICATION

SIDE EFFECTS. ERYTHEMA

Erythema an pruritus is a normal reaction to re-

epithalization.

Can be prevented with proper pre-peel action.

Persistent erythema is common

for deeper peels or combination

peels.

MORE SIDE EFFECTS

Peeling is the common on the 2nd day.

Dyspigmentation such as hypo or hyper pigmentation is

more likely to occur in patient Fitzpatrick IV-VI.

Bacterial and viral infections are rare.

Scarring is common for very deep peels.

Q&A