Factors influencing osteological changes in the hands and fingers of

rock climbers

Adam D. Sylvester, Angi M. Christensen, and Patricia A.

Krame

By: Sean Kloppenburg

Three styles of rock climbing were investigated inthis study: sport climbing, traditional climbing and

bouldering.-Different grades-Difficulty varies

“This study examines the osteological changes in the hands and fingers of rock climbers that result from intense, long-

term mechanical stress placed on these bones.”

Specifically:1. Bone modelling

2. Osteoarthritis (OA).

1) Higher incidence of OA in rock climbers.

2) Climbing induces bone deposition.

•27 recreational rock climbers*• V1–V12, 5.9–5.14b.

•35 non-climbers *•Ages ranged from 18-55.•Mean height = ~ 174cm

•Mean weight = ~ 67kg

•All subjects were asked to fill out a questionnaire for height, weight, age, and climbing experience (years of participation, types of climbing, frequency and highest level of difficulty achieved).*•Measures of bone were done with X-Rays on both the left and right hands.

Osteoarthritis•Non-climbers had a higher incidence of OA comparatively. •44% of climbers compared with 82% of non-climbers had some evidence of osteoarthritis and/or joint space narrowing.

Bone dimensions and strength•Climbers had greater moment of area, cross-sectional area and total width but not for medullary width.•Correlation of highest difficulty level achieved with increased bone strength.

•Suggesting Intensity is more important than frequency.

•The results suggest that the mechanical stress generated during rock climbing is sufficient to stimulate the bone deposition.•It is possible that bone remodeling happens from high-intensity mechanical stress and not to frequent low-intensity stresses, even if maintained over long periods of time.•The results also suggest that it is possible for adults to deposit new bone, even if they have already reached skeletal maturity. •The subjects may not climb at sufficient levels to incur the joint stress necessary to cause joint damage.

•However, the four climbers with the highest achieved levels of sport climbing and bouldering (5.13b−5.14b and V9–V12, which are considered elite levels of difficulty) had no indications of OA.*

•Self reported data•Closer attention to training

•No nutrition info•Larger sample size

•Separate women and men

•Recreational vs. Non-recreational

•Warm-up/Cool-down!•Injury prevention (chronic/acute), cross training.

•Overtraining.

•If done properly climbing can be healthy.•Bone remodeling has big implications for osteoporosis—further studies would be needed.

Questions?