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In the name of God
Frame Selection
Dr. Ali Mirzajani
Tehran University of Medical Science
Frame Selection
From an aesthetic point of view , glasses are of no small importance to the person wearing them.
The patient needs to received help, not only with sizing ,but also with the cosmetic aspects of a frame.
Frame Selection
Despite continuous changes in frame styles, there are still certain basics that can be used to arrive at an aesthetically pleasing and comfortable frame.
The wearer ultimately has the final choice of what he will wear , but he /she should not be allowed free rein in selecting his frames.
Cosmetic Dispensing
Frame selection is often:
A process of trial and error Usually time consuming Frequently extremely frustrating
Well-selected frame consists of:
A good bridge fit Proper eye size An acceptable shape
Frame Selection
Cosmetic consideration Fitting consideration Healthy consideration Visual consideration
Cosmetic consideration
Cosmetic consideration Well-selected frame shape
tends to : Exaggerate and emphasize facial
lines are complementary (more desirable aspects) to the person and make face more attractive.
Disparage and deemphasize facial lines are uncomplementary (less desirable aspects) to the person.
Cosmetic consideration
Complementary lines should be emphasized through repetition , usually by the upper and/or lower eye wires. (make face more attractive)
Reciprocally , uncomplementary lines should not repeated by the frame lines. (make face unattractive)
Cosmetic consideration
Few faces meet the artistic ideal in bone structure and conformity.
The line of the frame selected should create the effect of balancing facial planes that are not components of idealized proportions.
The idea is the same as using vertical stripes to enhance the appearance of a short or a fat person.
Cosmetic considerationfacial types
Generally ,there are seven basic facial shapes
facial types
Oval : considered to be the ideal type.
facial types
Oblong: thinner and longer than the oval.
facial types
Round: more circular than the oval.
facial types
1. Square: again, the sides of the face are more parallel than in the oval, with the face being wider and shorter than usual.
facial types
Triangular: the lower part of the face is
wider than the upper part.
facial types
Inverted triangular(base up) :
the upper part of the face ,the temple area is wider than lower
jaw area.
facial types
Diamond: the central section of the face is wider,
with the upper and lower
extremities of the face narrowing
down considerably.
Cosmetic consideration
To simplify the face shapes for the purpose of aiding in the choice of frame width and depth , the seven shapes can be condensed down to the following five shapes.
Three Keys:
Frame shape should contrast with face shape
Frame size should be in scale with face size
Eyewear should balance personal proportion
A Basic Guide to Face Shapes
The oval faces can wear any kind of shapes, big, small, strict, as it suit you.
OVAL - oval-shaped faces tend to suit many different styles
Your goal should be to keep the oval's natural balance. Look for frames that are 1 )as wide as, or wider than, the broadest part of the face ,
2 )almond or walnut-shaped frames that are neither too deep nor too narrow so that they do not upset facial balance
If you have a round face you can go for a round shape or correct the line of the face with a square shape
Your goal should be to make the face appear longer and thinner. Look for 1 )angular, narrow frames that will lengthen the face,
2 )high or mid-height temples, which help create a longer profile , 3 )a clear bridge that widens the eyes ,
4 )frames that are wider than they are deep, such as an octagonal shape
ROUND- a round face tends to suit quite angular styles and geometric shapes, which give definition to the face. Round or large eye shapes are less suitable as they will exaggerate the round shape of the face
Choose frames that are distinctive, angular, almost square, with designs that accentuate the upper part of the face. Look for frames with high temples and
up-swept "cat's eye" styles.
If you have a square face, you can go in the same shape as the face, or on the contrary to go to oval shape
Your goal should be to make the face look longer and soften the angles .Look for:
1 )curvilinear, narrow styles that soften facial angles, 2 )frames that are wider than the widest part of the face,
3 )frames that have more width than depth, and 4 )narrow ovals, which are an excellent choice.
SQUARE - soft, oval shapes work well. Thin, angular styles are less flattering
If you have a long face, you should go for a frame which cut the length of the face and enlarged the face, in respect to the interpupillary distance.
The long shape can benefit from enhancing the width of the face so try wide, large framed glasses in oval or round styles
look for softer shapes with some width; anything small and angular will tend to be less flattering
Choose frames that are deep to shorten the face. Frames can be slightly wider than the face
long face
Face Shape: OblongColoring: Cool, medium intensity
Heart or Triangular shaped
Frame shapes to try Choose angular frames with strong vertical lines. Avoid frame shapes which mirror the angle of the jaw and in doing so draw attention to it.
Triangular shaped
Triangular shaped – Try to select narrow, round or square eye shapes for these faces, which are a wider and more rounded shape than triangular ones
BASE-UP TRIANGLE FACES
Base-Up shaped faces have a very wide top third and small bottom third. Your goal should be to minimize the width of the top half of the face. Look for
1) frames that are wider at the bottom half of the frame,
2) very light colored materials are effective, and uniform in colour
3) rimless styles are an excellent choice.
Frame color
Frame color
Effective factors in frame color selection:
1. Hair color2. Skin color3. Feature size4. Eye color
Hair color
Gray hair : frames in pale tints of blue or rose are suitable.
Pure white or partially gray hair : plain gray frames are better.
Red hair: green frames is better( browns or reds should be avoided).
Skin color (facial tone)
Yellow or olive skin tones: colors to be avoided would be green-brown , green , yellow, or yellow-brown, because emphasize the yellow or olive tones already sufficiently present.
The recommended colors are those that draw out the colors desired, i.e. ,reds, pinks, red-browns.
Skin color (facial tone)
Overly pink skin: good colors: cool brown,
greens, and ambers. Avoided colors : shades of
blue, violet, and magenta
Skin color (facial tone)
Ageing skin : The same colors as yellow or olive
skin tones are suitable. Warm brown-red tones.
Avoided colors : gray, black, metallic frames, which only emphasize shadows caused by wrinkles.
Skin color (facial tone)
Skin irregularities: A black color frame will
emphasize skin irregularities.
Skin color (facial tone)
The smaller and more delicate the features, the lighter (thinner ) the frame should be.
The larger and broader the features, the heavier (thicker) the frame should be.
For children and women with child-like features, a light weight frame is suitable.
Using a frame too thick create a puny appearance.
Temple design
Basically temple style is indicated more by its relation to appropriate function than by appearance.
Broad temples tend to decrease the facial length.
Thin temples tend to increase the facial length.
Temple design
Small, round frame shapes are best to reduce lens thickness
Angular frames with sharp corners will accent the thickness of the lenses
Frames that look good with plano lenses may be very unattractive with high minus lenses
High-power Myopes
Fitting high plus lenses
Small, round frames .Fitting with high index aspheric lenses .Fit with a short vertex distance.
Fitting consideration
Fitting consideration General rules Sturdy construction for high power
lenses Frames with excessive curved front is
not suitable for fitting. Frames with excessive flat front is not
suitable for fitting. Frames with excessive eye size is not
suitable for small PD When the previous glasses are used
frame selection is function of the old frame.
For high minus lenses
1. Small eye size2. Frame with rounded corners3. A wide frame should be avoided.4. Excessive decentration should be
avoided (outer edge Vs inner edge) 5. Wider bridge (more DBL) Thus : less effective diameter a 50 □ 20 instead of a 52 □ 18
For high minus lenses
6.High index of refraction for reducing the edge thickness.
7.Plastic lenses for reducing the weight in the sensitive nose.
8. Using a flat bevel rather than the usual 40 º reduces reflection rings (also edge coating)
9. Thick rim of demi-amber or brown plastic is suitable. (a crystal or black frame is not suitable)
For high minus lenses
10.Front curves less than 2.00 D will result in a high reflection of light from the front.
11.Using a pink tint or antireflection coating will reduce lens reflections.
12.Minus lens and eye make up
For high plus lenses
1. Smaller eye size2. Rounded shapes3. Effective diameters ≤ eye size +
2mm4. Shapes with small “frame
differences”
For high plus lenses
5. Sturdy construction6. Short vertex distances 7. Adjustable nosepads (for regulate
BVD) 8. Cable temples
For cylindrical lenses
Rounded shapes is not suitable (rotating cylinder axis)
Frame dimension should be short in along thickness direction of the lens when it is possible.
Fitting considerationthe bridge
The appropriate bridge is determined by:
1. Bridge width2. Position of its pads3. Frontal angle of the bridge at the
pads4. Splay angle (transverse angle)5. Vertical angle (crest angle)
Frontal angle
Splay angle (transverse angle )
Vertical angle (Crest angle)
Healthy consideration
As a healthy point of view , properties that frame materials required can be listed as:
Healthy consideration
1. They must not injure –cause dermatitis2. They must take and hold a good polish 3. They must be resist attack from skin
acids (cellulose nitrate becomes yellow and crazed with time)
4. They must be light (neurotic problems)
Healthy considerationagents cause dermatitis
1.Metal frames that have a poor quality nickel alloy base metal (common)
2. Coloring agents3. Even gold can cause dermatitis
Healthy consideration
There is two type of contact dermatitis:
1. Irritant contact dermatitis (ICD)2. Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD)
Healthy considerationchildren bridges The investigations have shown that splay angle decreases from 28.2 º at ages “3 to 5” to 23 º at ages “ 16 to 18” .
The depth of the nasal bridge also changes : it increases from 14.2 mm at age 3 to 5 to 19.2 mm at age s 16 to 18.
Healthy considerationchildren bridges Thus in children:1. A larger pad splay angle2. A larger pad area3. More soft pad that does not inhibit
nasal development.4. Using different types of nasal pads.
Healthy consideration1. Selection of the wrong nasal pad can
causes deformity and malformation of child's nose.
2. An uncomfort bridge can cause neurotic problems for wearer.
3. A non-suitable bridge can cause injury of the skin.
4. A bridge pad with no good material (no skin acid resistance ) can cause contact dermatitis.
Healthy consideration In wearers with surgical process on
nose or other facial parts, a light weight frame with a good adjustable pad should be used.
With age there are pronounced physiological changes to the elasticity and fat content of the skin and therefore , the bridge fitting is important.
Visual consideration
Visual consideration
Half-eye frame for near vision Suitable eye size for size of patient's
eyes Suitable field of view No excessive change in eye size
Visual consideration
Gradually variation in frame mode (important as both visually and habitually – suppression of the old frame components)
suitable frame for bifocals and progressive corrections
No too small eye size for children ,specially in accommodative esotropia.
Frame selection inEar, nose and other facial deformities
Thank you for your attention