NAS 184: Literary and Social Movements of Chiapas

Scenes from San Cristobal de las Casasand the surrounding communities;

Excerpts from Zapatista communiques;Some of the Mayan people you will meet and get to know

San Cristobal de las Casas “The storm is letting up a bit

now. The crickets are taking advantage of the clearing and they are going back to chirping the dawn. A great black cowl covers the sky. Another rain is being readied, although the puddles down below report they are already full. The night has its own words now, and it takes out apparently forgotten histories. This is the hour of the history of those of below, the hour of the little ones.” (Sub-Comandante Marcos, October 1999)

Professor Inés Hernández-Avila, Instructor, NAS 184

“I am excited to take students to San Cristobal to become informed about the strong intellectual, cultural and social currents that are shaping Chiapas and the Mexican nation.

Professor Hernandez-Avila (Nez Perce and Tejana), interdisciplinary scholar, poet, cultural worker, artist.

Sandra Gutierrez, Ph.D. candidate, NativeAmericanStudies

Sandra J. Gutierrez is a Ph.D. Candidate in the Department of Native American Studies at UC Davis. Her research focuses on the P'urhepechaethno-peasant movement in Michoacan, Mexico, mainly concentrating on demands for the recognition and assertion of P'urhepecha autonomy and land rights. Other interests also include indigenous social movements and state reform, indigenous languages, and transnational migration.

Being a migrant woman herself, she is interested in understanding more deeply the mechanisms through which indigenous migrants recreate and reaffirm their identities and culture away from their homelands.

A street view San Cristobal de las Casas is

a valley, as the angle of this photo shows

To arrive in San Cristobal, you will fly into Tuxtla Gutierrez, then take public transportation to San Cristobal. If you are traveling in a group, you can take a cab to San Cristobal and split the cost. A cab ride from Tuxtla to the hotel will be about $60 (dollars), but split four ways, it is reasonable. Since you will be traveling with luggage, it might be the best. Other means: bus, ‘combi’ (van).

The Cathedral, historical center of political activity in Chiapas

This site in San Cristobal has been the center of many political, historical events in the recent history of Chiapas. The first dialogue between the EZLN and representatives of the government took place inside the cathedral in March 1994.

Another view of the Cathedral "The one who has a song

will have a storm,company,solitude.The one who follows a good roadwill have dangerous pointswhich will invite them to stop.But the song has worth,good stormand the companyis worth the solitude.The agony of hasteis always worth itthough the pointsare filled with truth.” (Zapatista Communiqué)

Sunset in San Cristobal de las Casas

“The wind from below once again travels the ravines and valleys; it is beginning to blow strongly. There will be a storm…”(SubcomandanteMarcos, December 1994)

Main square of San Cristobal

The cloud formation embracing the town is a daily sight during the course of our stay. Much of the summer is RAINY season.

The main square often has street vendors displaying and selling their work—musicians—performers—and more!

Centro Estatal de Literatura, Arte y Lenguas Indigenas(CELALI)

Autonomy in practice is at the base of CELALI (State Center of Literature, Art, and Indigenous Languages), the first center founded and operated by Indigenous peoples of Chiapas.

We will visit CELALI often and interact with the Director and staff.

CELALI offers classes in Mayan languages.

Histories in murals—A CELALI mural

”’Don't surrender! Resist! Resist with dignity in the lands of the true men and women! Let the mountains shelter the pain of the people of this land. Don't surrender! Resist! Don't sell-out! Resist!’ Our dead spoke these words from their hearts.’ (Zapatista Communiqué 1994)

CELALI Mural depicting Mexican history and Zapatista movement In my research I met Mayan

intellectuals from Chiapas and began to pay closer attention to the Zapatista movement and its impact on the nation of Mexico, the state of Chiapas, and indigenous communities in Chiapas and everywhere.

I am drawn to how they wage their struggle through the power of the word, through a reflective critical consciousness that is articulate, compassionate, and wise, rooted in their original teachings as Mayan people.

Professor Hernandez-Avila

Mayan Writers from CELALI we will meet:Armando Sanchez & Alberto Gomez

Writer Daniel Ochoa, CELALI Daniel Ochoa is one of the

major figures responsible for translating the San Andrés Accords into all of the Mayan languages of Chiapas, so that the communities will know exactly how the Zapatistas are articulating their struggle. Daniel is Maya Tzeltal. He will be engaging with us in the class.

Another View of San Cristobal

There are interesting spots throughout the city, one of which is the Taller Leñateros, where Mayan women and men create beautiful hand-made paper and paper products. We will visit this site and students who wish to sign up for a workshop will be able to learn from the artists.

Research Resources in San Cristobal

Biblioteca Jan de Vos, Jan de Vos Library, at CIESAS

CIESAS, Centro de Investigaciones y EstudiosSuperiores en Antropología

UNICH, Universidad Intercultural de Chiapas

UNACH, Universidad Autónoma de Chiapas

The Andador The ‘Andador’ is a street

that is closed to vehicles—it runs from the town center to the marketplace. There are shops, internet cafes, restaurants, clubs, performers, and much more along the way.

Often musicians will come into restaurants and perform, and then pass the hat for donations.

Walking down the streets The colorful streets and

surrounding mountains make any walking trip enjoyable.

The cost of eating is very reasonable in San Cristobal, there are restaurants with a range of prices. Lots of veggie options.

There are many sites in town that support and offer resources on the Zapatistas.

Maya Tojolab’al composer, artist, activist, MaríaRoselia Jimenez Perez

Roselia is one of the writers, activists that students will meet. She is internationally known as a composer of song. Through her inspiration, the Tojolab’al people are recuperating their tradition of song.

She is a fierce, passionate cultural worker and activist for social justice.

She and her family will host us at El Chiflón for our Welcome Dinner.

Cascada (Waterfall) El Chiflón “Ajaw, Guardian of the

UniverseMake the clouds cry,The corn will drink her tears”. Adriana del Carmen Lopez Santiz, Tzeltal poet

K’intum=Rainbow A beautiful rainbow across

the waterfall of El Chiflón, where we will have our Welcome Dinner and our first overnight weekend stay (in cabanas right next to the river)—please note the tiny bridge relative to the size of the waterfall

The River at El Chiflón“In the rock of the mountain,

water is always dripping,

light stones are born;

mysterious images

form heavenly bodies

that my eyes read”,

Elvira de Imelda Gomez Diaz, Maya Zoque poet.

Another view of the waters at El Chiflón

Part of the natural beauty of the state of Chiapas

Swimming is allowed at certain parts of the river.

There is a restaurant at El Chiflón, as well as a few shops selling work by local artisans.

The sounds of nature in Chiapas “Our grandparents, parents

instill respect for nature, life. To play with the animals and protect them is a wonderful thing, saying it singing and dancing is to give continuity to the wise words of our elders in favor of life.” RoseliaJimenez Perez, Maya Tojolabal, artist, poet, singer, writer, cultural activist.

Amatenango del Valle One of the scheduled

weekend trips includes a stop in Amatenango del Valle, where the class meets with traditional pottery makers.

The pottery ranges in size from tiny to very large, all beautiful.

Amatenango del Valle Amatenango del Valle is

known as a village of potters.

“It gives the kids great joy to play with farm animals and household pets, they communicate with the animals, they know their language” Roselia Jimenez Perez, Tojolabal, artist, poet, singer, writer, cultural activist.

View from lunch spot atLagos de Montebello

On our way back from the weekend trip to the waterfall of el Chiflon, we will make a stop for lunch at one of the Lagos (Lakes) de Montebello.

It is beautiful. Students may kayak after lunch.

(the photo does not do the beauty justice!)

A Weekend in Palenque One of our two weekend

trips will be to Palenque, one of the most famous of the Mayan ancient sites.

Palenque is in the middle of a jungle, you will see monkeys, macaw, and other beauties at this sacred site.

Zapatista Autonomous Community

When we visit the autonomous communities, out of respect, we do not take photographs of the people.

The last time the class was offered, we went to a Zapatista community where….

Zapateria Primero de Enero

The shoe factory “First of January” is located…

Zapatista-Made Boots

Where these boots, sandals, bags, wallets and other leather materials are hand made by the Zapatistas, exported, and sold in San Cristobal de las Casas

There is a restaurant called Tierra Adentro where the tables are in a patio, with shops that support the Zapatistas all around.

School in rebellion

This mural is painted on the side wall of the school. In addition to teaching kids from various communities, the school also teaches Tzeltaland Tzotzil to all who are interested….

Community store in an autonomous community

The store sells products made by the Zapatistas such as T-shirts, mugs, weavings, bags, coffee, boots, belts, posters….

Women’s Cooperative—Office of Women for Dignity

“She smiles because she once admired the Zapatistas but no longer. She ended the admiration in the moment in which she learned that they were only a mirror of her rebellion, of her hope. She discovers that she is born on the first of January of 1994. From then on she feels that her life and what was always said to be a dream and a utopia, might actually be a truth. She begins to knit in silence and without pay, side by side with other men and women, that complex dream which some call hope: Everything for everyone, nothing for ourselves.” (Zapatista Communique, March 1996)

A world where many worlds fit—”Let us unite in the Other Campaign; we will struggle together until we win or we die.” Zapatista embroidery

Back in the city of San Cristobal There are many sites

that support the Zapatistas, such as Tierra Adentro (a restaurant with free wifisurrounded by shops that sell goods from the autonomous communities), internet cafés, much, much more.

Mayan people are famous for their weavings, their embroidery, their art

In the marketplace in San Cristobal, as well as many sites in the city such as Tierra Adentro, and in the autonomous communities, Mayan people will have their beautiful work, their weavings, their pottery, and other forms of art, for sale.

Buying directly from them or from their stores is a good way to support them.

La Virgen ZapatistaThe Zapatista Virgen

Chiapas Media Project: A Project of the Americas Media Initiative—teaching indigenous communities how to create their own media—a site we will visit in San Cristobal

Inauguration of Majana’Num, Community Museum in Napite, Las Margaritas, Chiapas

This community museum was converted from a fallen down hacienda where the ancestors of the community people worked and suffered as peons in the past. It now belongs to their descendants.

“Boys and girls, men and women, a song from the true word for you” Maria RoseliaJimenez Perez, Tojolabal, artist, poet, singer, writer, cultural activist.

We will visit this community museum, if possible.

Chiapas countrysideOutskirts of Napité

Las Margaritas, Zapatista Territory

This is where MaríaRoselia Jimenez Perez is from.

Tojolab’alotik=We are Tojolab’ales: Scenes and Words from the inauguration of the museum Majana’Num

“We make a call to mother earth, to hear of the universe through the music of the flutes. We are Tojolab’ales, we are our language.”

María Roselia Jimenez Perez, Maya Tojolabal, artist/activist, was the driving force behind this center becoming a reality.

Majana’Num: Napité Community Museum in the heart of Las Margaritas, ZapatistaTerritory

“We the Zapatistas want everything for Everyone, and nothing for ourselves. For us, everyone who, with arms and without, with or without face, indigenous or not indigenous, makes our dream of a better country their dream are Zapatistas.” (Marcos, 1995)

Library of the Napite community museum

“I shape words that cryFor the true human beings,Those who pray to the four corners of heavenAnd walk in the groove of the story.” Adriana del Carmen Lopez Santiz, Tzeltal poet

FOMMA performance at the inauguration of the Napité Museum

FOMMA [the Strength of Mayan Women] is a theater troupe and a cultural center in San Cristobal de las Casas. The two founders of FOMMA began their lives as domestic servants, but they rose to create an incredible space for the empowerment of women. They perform in Spanish, and in Tzeltal and Tzotzil.

We will visit them at their center in San Cristobal.

FOMMA: Fortaleza de la Mujer Maya Mayan women’s theater

“Women, you were born with the song of the mockingbird…we welcome you with the sacred elements of the universe, the flowers, our mother maize, and a celebration of rainbows, hope in the life of Maya-Tojolab’alpeoples” Roselia Jimenez Perez, Tojolabal, artist, poet, singer, writer, cultural activist.

FOMMA: Fortaleza de la Mujer Maya

FOMMA is a women’s center, a research center, a space where women can come to learn vocational skills that will help them to find better jobs than domestic service, and a space for creativity through the elaboration of theater pieces that address the contemporary reality of Mayan women’s lives.

FOMMA center in San Cristobal FOMMA has a wonderful

center in San Cristobal. They are affiliated with the Hemispheric Institute of Performance and Politics at NYU.

These are my students from July 2012 with the FOMMA women at their center, which has this great multi-layered stage.

Painting a MURAL in Zinacantan

In July 2012, my students and I were invited to paint a mural at the Cultural Center of Zinacantan, Chiapas.

We worked with the Art Instructor who helped us with the main design. He and two of the staff at the center helped us with the painting as well. It was a wondefulexperience!

Learning how to develop the grid With the Art Instructor, we

came up with the design, which included the surrounding mountains as well as symbols that are important in their Tzotzilculture.

Once we had our drawing, we drew a grid on the wall of the stage, so that we could match our work on the wall with the design.

Painting the MuraL It is incredible to believe, but

we finished the mural in one week and one day.

We had to take taxis every day, M-F, in the afternoon, after class, to paint.

We would finish in the evening and then return to San Cristobal.

Collective Action with a community It was an amazing experience.

The community at the cultural center trusted us and we became friends with them.

They gave us their main stage for the mural, which was an honor and a challenge.

We held our final dinner with them at the site.

Irene Sanchez, UNICHUniversidad Intercultural de Chiapas

Irene Sanchez is studying at the Intercultural University of Chiapas. She is an activist who focuses on land and ecological issues, and on issues pertaining to women. She leads a circle of Mayan women who are learning how to counteract domestic violence.

She will meet with us and introduce us to her circle of women.

“Don’t stop mobilizing for peace…” I invite you to join me

celebrate the resurgence of Indigenous activism of Maya peoples of Chiapas, an activism that continues to connect the long legacy of creative, intellectual and activist work of Mesoamerica.

“The ‘New Human’ is the Old Human come back renewed and ready.” paraphrase from a conversation between Daniel Ochoa and Inés Hernández-Avila

Thanks for viewing!Deadline for registration for the course is April 3, 2015. Information can be found at https://summer-abroad.ucdavis.edu/programs/current-programs/program.aspx?program=2094

Summer Abroad/Chiapas Program Coordinator: Christina Siracusa,casiracusa@ucdavis.edu