The Inside Trail◆Winter 2005◆1
RememberingJ.GordonEdwards
VoiceoftheGlacierParkFoundation■Winter2005■VolumeXIX,No.1
Alsointhisissue:•FindingOldNo.98•RunningthePBXinthe1950s
GordonisstandingonThunderbirdPeaklookingtowardKintlaPerakafterastormonAugust31,1956.(BobMegardPhoto)
2�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail
GlacierParkFoundationP.O.Box15641Minneapolis,MN55415www.glacierparkfoundation.org
BoardofDirectors:TessieBundickLauraChiharaJanetEisnerCornishCarolRepulskiDahleJoyceDaugaardGlenElvigLeeFlathDavidGilbertsonJohnHagenEinarHansonPaulHoffMarkHufstetlerJeffKuhnLindaYoungKuhnRolfLarsonLeroyLottGregNotess
MacWillemssen
TheGlacierParkFoundationwasformedbyGlacierParkemployeesandvisitorswhohaveadeeploveforthisspecialplace.TheFoundationiscommitedbothtotheimportanceofwildernesspreservationandtotheimportanceofplaceslikeGlacierasclassroomswherepeoplecanexperiencewildernessinintensemeaningfulways,learningnotonlyalovefortheland,butalsoarespectthatnurturestheskillsnecessarytopreservethatland.TheFounda-tionhasaspecialinterestinGlacierPark’shistory,traditionsandvisitorfacilities.
TheInsideTrailtakesitsnamefromthefamousoldtrailwhichconnectedGla-cierParkLodgewiththevanishedchaletsatTwoMedicine,CutBank,andSt.Mary.Thenamethusem-phasizesthepublication’sfo-cusontheloreandhistoryofGlacierNationalPark.Weinvitesubmissionofhistori-cal,scientific,oranecdotalarticles,commentary,poetry,orartworkforpublicationinfutureissues.
Officers:JohnHagen,PresidentEinarHanson,FirstVicePresidentCarolDahle,VicePresident-MembershipMacWillemssen,SecretaryTessieBundick,HistorianJimLees,TreasurerRolfLarson,InsideTrailEditor
Dr.J.GordonEdwards,authorofAClimber’sGuidetoGlacierNationalPark,diedonthetrailonAugust19,2004.Dr.Edwardswas84yearsold.
HewasalegendarymountaineerandoneofthemostdistinguishedandfamousfiguresinGlacier’shistory.
Dr.EdwardswassettingoutonaclimbofDivideMountainwhenhecol-lapsedanddied.HewaswithhiswifeAlice,hisinseparablecompaniononGlacier’strailsandpeaksformorethan55years.TheirdaughterJanewas
leadingaclimbofMt.Cannonatthetimeofherfather’sdeath.
Dr.EdwardsleavesbehindmanyhundredsofGlacierfriends.Despitehisfame,hewasunassumingandwonderfullypersonable,alwayswillingto
discussmountaineeringwiththegreenestnovice.
Dr.EdwardswasaGlacierParkFoundationmemberfromitsbeginningin1980.HefrequentlywroteforTheInsideTrail.Thisissuefeaturesaspecial
memorialsectiondedicatedtohim.
FarewelltoGordonEdwards
GordonEdwardsleadingagrouponthePtarmiganWall,asalways
theconsumatehost,freelysharingmagicalplaceswiththoseofus
whohadtheincrediblegoodfortunetosharetime
withthisgracioushost.(DaveShoup)photo
TheInsideTrail�Winter2005�3
TheInsideTrailwelcomesnotonlyarticles,butalsobrieflettersandanec-dotes.Hereareafewwhichweresenttousrecently.
FarewelltoMarkTyersMarkTyers’manyfriendsandfansfromHootenannydaysof1973-75willbesaddenedtoknowthatthisworldlostagreatmusicianlastJune,whenhesteppedoutontoHeaven’sPeaks,followin’theDrinkin’Gourd,afteralongillness.
KathyTyers(MGH1973-75)
AWeddingInvitationFellowgearjammerEmilySlagle(#87)andI(#101)willbegettingmarriedonJune25.MythankstoLeroyLottforrecruitingmetobeajammer!Anyonethatshowsupattheweddinginanoldrediswel-come.
BradDieringer(Gearjammer2000)
ReunionwithRedBus#105Ispenttwoyearsoftime-consum-inglaboracquiringgearjammerlistsandorganizingthefirst-everdecades-widereunionofdriversoftheredbussesinJune2002.IwassittinginthelobbyofGlacierParkLodgelisteningtothededicationspeecheswhenmywife,Billie,sentamessengertogetmetojoinheroutsideatthefrontdriveway.Tomygreatsurprise,theresatmybusfrom1950(number105),surroundedbyabeautiful,largeblueribboncov-eredbyalayerofthickwhitesnow.Withnocoat,wearingmyFord-is-suedlongsleeve“OnceaGearjam-mer,AlwaysaGearjammer”shirt,Icommencedthephotocelebration.WhatawonderfulChristmasinJune!
LeroyLott(Gearjammer1949-50)
GLACIERBULLETINBOARDTheUbiquitous“Reds”MywifeandIrecentlytouredNewEnglandandstayedacoupleofdaysattheTrappFamilyLodgenearStowe,Vermont.Theyhaveagiftshop(ofcourse),andamongotherthingsweboughtaCDoftheVonTrappchildren–whoarecarry-ingonthefamilymusicaltradition–singingChristmassongs.Whenwegothomeandweresortingthroughourpurchases,InoticedsomethingveryfamiliaronthebackoftheVonTrappCD.Sureenough,twopicturesofthekidssittingandstandinginfrontof–aGlacierParkredbus!We’reeverywhere!
PaulReinhard(Gearjammer1959-61)
GenerationsinGlacierOurgranddaughter,LindseyFifield,workedthefrontdeskatManyGlacierin2003-04.HermotherMarthawasatSt.Maryin1974.Betty(hergrandmother)workedthediningroomatManyin1946-47.Betty’suncle,OlieLandkamer,droveoneofthefirstbusestotheLoganPassDedicationinJuly1933.ThatisalmostfourgenerationsinGlacier!
LeoandBettySchneider.
ReunionPlansManyGlacieremployeesof1967-68-69areplanningabigreunionatManyin2007.Plantoattend–let’sbringbackanalumniHootenanny!
KeithBearden(ManyGlacier’67-’68)
ChallengingmyBusNumberI’mstillaround–now84yearsold!Ihopetomatchmybusnumber(97)beforeIleave.I’mfromtheGlacierParkclassof1942–howmanyareleft?
JoeFunk
AFatefulCoinFlipImetmyhusbandwhenhecamehitchhikingthroughGlacierin1952.HehadflippedacointodeterminewhichroutetotakebacktoVancouver,Canada.Wemarriedayearlater.
HarrietStapleton(GlacierParkLodge1952)
KudostotheInsideTrailI’velivedallovertheU.S.,relocatingwithmyhusband’sjob,andyouhavealwaysbeenabletofindmewithTheInsideTrail.ForthisIameternallygrateful.MyonesummeratGlacierwasterrificandIwouldhavecomebackbuthadalreadygraduatedfromcollegeandmyparentsthoughtitwouldbegoodtotakemeoffthedolesoIwouldbemotivatedtofindarealjob.Beingtheparentofacol-legefreshman,Inowseethewisdomoftheirways.
I’mpitchinglongandhardformykidstoworkattheparkbytellingstoriesoffriends,hikesandfreshmountainair.Thiswouldalsogivemeanexcusetocomebackandvisit.Keepupthegoodwork,keepsendinginfo,andI’llkeepreadingitwhiledreamingofthedayIretireandcantakeoneoftheredbusesintotheparkandborethepantsoffthenewdriverswithmytalesofyes-teryear.AllmybestfromMissouri(formerlyTexas(4cities),Ohio,LouisianaandAlabama).
Trisha(Wiggins)Lee(ManyGlacier1973)
4�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail
(PhotobyLarryBurton.1939-2004.OverlayroutemapisadrawingbyGordonEdwardsfrom“AClimber’sGuidetoGlacierNationalPark,”reprintedwithpermissionoftheGlacierNaturalHistoryAssociation)
DickSchwab
RobertMegard
JohnHagen
EdwardSanmanIII
DaveShoup
JanaHjelmsethBakerandJacquieHjelmsethFennel
RolfLarson
TheInsideTrail�Winter2005�5
ByDickSchwab(MGH1947-52)
Ithinkthebesteulogymyfamilycouldmakeforourgreatfriend,Gordon,isalreadyinmyGlacierdiary,whichrecordsthehappyandexcitingdaysofgrandadventureweenjoyedwithhim,Alice,andJaneoverthepastthirtyyears.ThefollowingselectionofdiaryentriesgiveanimmediatesenseofGor-donassomeonewhohadadventurebuiltintohimandwhogeneratedunforgettablememoriesforallwhoknewhim.Spreadoveragenera-tionofgoodtimes,thesenotesbearwitnesstothekindness,generos-ity,andhumorofGordon’slivelyspirit,whichmadeallourhourswithhimsopleasurableandmemorable.WheneverIreadthemoverIsmileandthinkhowluckyweweretohaveknownthisgreatman.
grasshoppersandGordonwithhisnetandkilljar.WepeeredovertheclifftoseethemilkycolorofCrackerLakestraightdownbelow.
JohnMauff’sFallWed.9July1978:ThiswasoneofourmorememorableexpeditionsinGlacier.Gordon,Jane,JohnMauff,JoeSteffen,RandyKay(theManyGlacierdancebandleader)andIstartedoutonabeautifulday,climb-ingtoSnowmoonfirstandthenuptheridgetotheeastoverlook-ingCrackerLake.Fromthereweascendedacliffypitchandgotonto
PerhapsitwasJane,inconjunctionwithsomeoneelse,whoknewhowtopulltheskinontheskulltogethersothetwosidesofthegashmatchedwell,andthensecuredthecutwitha“butterfly”dressingthatkeptthewoundtightlyclosed.John,withhisamazingtoleranceforpainandalmostcasualattitudetowardacci-dentsofthiskind,satquietlytalk-ingwithusforawhile,takingsomenourishmentintheformofacandybarorso,andtheninsistedweplodforwardtothesummit.
Gordon,worryingaboutgoingbackdownthecliffysideofAllentoSnowMoon,etc.,decidedweshouldcutacrossthegreatwesternscreeslopeofAllenontheJosephinesideandmakeourwaythroughthatterriblebutsafejungleofaldersalongasteepstreamthateventuallyintersectstheuppertrailontheeasternsideofLakeJosephine.John,alwaysgameandamazinglystoical,althoughperhapsnotquitewithhisusualsure-footedness,weatheredthede-scentremarkablywell.Iwentaheadcrashingthroughthealders,findingroutesaroundlittlecliffsalongthewaterfallsofthecreek.Itwasahotandsweatyoperation.Thealdersservedascushionsandobstaclestobepushedthrough,andsoalthoughitwasquitesafeitwasalsoquiteatravailtogetdownthisway.Tomakethingsabitworse,therewasa
ThefollowingselectionofdiaryentriesgiveanimmediatesenseofGordonassomeonewhohad
adventurebuiltintohimandwhogeneratedunforgettablememoriesforallwhoknewhim.
AdventureswithGordonEdwards
Thesenotesbearwitnesstothekindness,generosity,andhumorofGordon’slively
spirit,whichmadeallourhourswithhimsopleasurableandmemorable.
thelong,longupperridge.IthinkthisiswhatGordon,Alice,andJanehavecalledstrollingalongthegreat“TightropeintheSky”whichisamuchhigherridgethananyotheroneitherside,offeringmagnificentviewsalloverthePark.
Asweweregoingupafairlygentleslopewithcliffyoutcroppings,John,whowaswalkingandtalkingwithJoeSteffen,losthisfooting,toppledoverbackward,andsustainedaverynastycutonhisforehead.Weallrusheddowntoadministerfirstaid.
RedGrasshoppersandRedArgilliteWed.25July1973:Mark[ourson,12yearsold],GordonEdwards,JohnMauff,someothers,andIwentupGordon’sroutetoSchwabFalls[onthestreamflowingoutofSnowMoonLake].FromSnowMoonweclimbedupashoulderofMt.AllenthatlooksoverCrackerLake.GordonputMarktoworkcatchingtheredgrasshoppersthatmatchedtheredGrinnellargil-liteontheslope.Itwasawonderfulscene:MarkandGordoncatchingthe
6�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail
rumblingofthunderasabigstormseemedtobeapproachingusfromthewest,andoccasionallywefeltaheavydropofrain.Arealdownpourwouldhavemadeforbadfooting,butwithgoodluckwefinallybrokethroughtothetrailbeforethestormhit.Johncasuallysuggestedaswegottothetrailthatweallmakeforthegrilltohaveabeer!
The“HighRollersClub”Tues.31July1979:Thiswasoneoftheall-timegreatadventuresduringourtimeinGlacier–andnearlyamajormisadventure.Gordon,JoeSteffen,WorthandCarolynMoffat,andIsetoffwithseveralothersonabeautifuldayonGordon’sHelenLakeOverlookGoatTrail.ThisspectaculartripstartsaboveandtotherightofthePtarmiganTunnel,weavesaroundbehindthePtarmiganWall,upanddown,andalongledgesthroughsplendidcountrywiththegrandestviews.
WewereinsightoftheamazingnarrowgoattrailhighaboveHelenLakeonthewaytoAhernPass,whensuddenlyCarolyntrippedandstartedrollingdowntowardacliff.Everyonewasshoutingathertospreadherarms.Forawhile,fromtheanglewhereIstood,Icouldseethetopofherblondheadasshespedalonglikearollingpintowardacliffysection.Joewasexperiment-ingaroundlikeahumanflyonacliffaboveandwasshoutingathertospreadherarms,andWorthwasrushingalongafterher.Suddenlyshesortofflippedandendedupsittingdazedwithherbackagainstarockoutcropping.Weweresureshemusthavebrokensomebones,
RememberingGordonEdwardscontinued
GordonleadingagroupalongaGoatTrailonthePtarmigan-Ahernroute.TheEdwardscalledthisroutethe“GreatTightropeintheSky“.Gordon,asalwaysleading,isdisappearingintothemistatthefront,whileJaneisattherearwearinghertrademarkstrawhat.ThispictureisfromadifferenttripthantheonementionedinDick’sstory.However,DickandhissonMarkwerealsoonthisadventure.Youcanseetheirsilhouettesinthemiddleofthegroup.(RolfLarsonphoto)
butshesustainedonlyabrasionsandtoreafingernailorso.Ofcourseshewasprettymuchshocked.Wefedhercandiesandcheckedherout.Theproblemwashowtogetheroutofthatveryawkwardplaceonthewrongsideofthewall.
Gordonrememberedthatoncehe,Alice,andJanehadbeenoverthere,andthetwoladieshadsomereasontogetbackearly.Theyhadclimbedupthroughacleftinthewallthatdidnotlooktoohardtogetto,andtheymadetheirwaydownthe
othersidetothePtarmigantrail.Wedecidedthisiswhatwewouldhavetodonow,andafterabitofarestwebegantheslowascentto-wardthecleft.EveryonegatheredclosetoCarolynlikeworkerbeesaroundthequeen,guidinghereverystep.Butwedidnotknowexactlywhatitwouldbelikeontheotherside.Someonemadethemistakeofmuttering,“Idreadtothinkwhatwe’llseewhenwegettothetop.”IfCarolynheardthisshedidnotlosespirit,butseemedtopickupenergythemoreweclimbed.
TheInsideTrail�Winter2005�7
Whenwegottothetopitwasclearthatitwouldnotbeterriblydifficulttodescendifweengagedincarefulroute-finding.GordonfashionedasortofropeleashforCarolyn.Hehadhergoaheadofhim,whileothersstayedinfrontofher,andwebegantheadventureofgettingdowntothetrail.Myjobwastobetheroute-finder,anditturnedoutthattherewerequiteeasywaystogetthroughthecliffypartsandthentotraipsedownthescreeandsteepgrassy,bushyslopetothetrail.ItwasamusingtolookaroundandseeCarolyngamelymakingherwayinfrontofGordonwhowasholdingontotheropecarefullysoasnottojerkheroffbalancebuttogivehersupportifitwereneeded.
Weallwerequiteexuberantwhenwegotbacktothetrail.Andsoitturnedouttobeanunforgettableandvictoriousday.Wehada“GatorAdeOrgy”atPtarmiganFalls,whichwasthefirstgoodwatersourceonthewayback.WorthbrokeouthisendlesssupplyofGatorAdemix.WeallcongratulatedCarolynforhergrit.
Inanycase,Carolynjoinedtheranksofthe“HighRollers,”aninformalclubweestablishedforthosewhohadbeeninvolvedinepisodessuchasthis.Therearemanydistin-guishedmembersamongus.Andmostofushavequalifiedaswellforthetitleof“Rolaids,”whoarethosewhohelptheHighRollersgetdown.OnenightGordon,Alice,Jane,andIspentagoodshareoftheeveningoverintheloungeofthehotelnexttothediningroom,lookingoutat
thesunsetandthegatheringnight,dreamingupallsortsofdetails,officers,mottos,anthems,hymns,etc.,fortheHighRollersClub.ThechaplainwastobecalledtheHolyRoller,etc.,etc.Alicetooknotesonitall,andwethoughtitwasprettyamusing.Hymn:“WhentheRollisCalledUpYonder.”Drinkingsong:“RollOuttheBarrel,”etc.
MassClimbofMt.ClementsWed.18July1990:GordonledtheGlacierMountaineeringSocietyonanamazingtriptothesummitofClements,alongthenew,longer,lowercliff-hanginggoattrailonthenorthsidethathefoundtheprevi-ousyear.Therewereforty-sixpeopleonthishike,andheandJaneman-agedtogetthemallthroughingoodshape.Inoteonmycalendarthatitwasa“perfectday.”Gordonistobeseventy-oneyearsoldthisAugust,andhecouldstillwearusallout!
toprotectourselvesfromthecoldblasts.Therearegoodviewsevery-whereonthismountain,andwehadapeekatGoatLakedownbelow,approachingthelipofthecliffaboveitcarefullysoasnottogetblownoverit.
WhenwegotdowntotheroadatSunriftGorge,GordontalkedwithacouplefromMassachusettswhohadtakentheSiyehPasshikefromSiyehBend,andhegraciouslyofferedtheamazedhusbandaridebacktore-trievehiscar.IquietlylethimknowwhoGordonwasaswebothgotoutofthecaratSiyehBend,andhe,havingbeenarangerelsewhere,wasmuchimpressed.AmilkshakeandcharburgersrevivedusatSt.Mary.
SparksonMt.SiyehFri.24July1998:AgroupfromtheGlacierMountaineeringSoci-etymadethehugeexpeditionfrom
WheneverIread[mynotesofthesedays],Ismileandthinkhowluckyweweretohave
knownthisgreatman.
AGaleonGoatMountainTues.26July1995:Ihadawonder-fulfirstclimbofGoatMountainwithGordon,Alice,andJaneinbrightbutexceptionallywindyweather.Wehadahappytimetalk-ingandjokingallday.Thewindwassointenseitnearlyblewusflatattimes.Wehadlunchbehindalittlefortofstonesnearthesummit
WynntoSiyeh–includingGordonandAlice.Gordonsoonwillbeseventy-nine!Theyranintoavarydiceyelectricalstorm,withlotsofsparksandcracklingandbuzzingonthesummitofSiyeh,butnoharmwasdonetothem.
8�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail
ByRobertMegard(ManyGlacier1953-57)
ThunderbirdMountain,anisolatedrockspireinnorthwesternGlacierPark,attractedGordonEdwardsattentionasarareopportunityfora“firstascent”inGlacier.Hethoughtitmayhavebeenoverlooked,notclimbedpreviouslybecauseitislocatedinsucharemotepartoftheparkand,at8,800ft,notespe-ciallyhigh.Fromvantagepointsonneighboringpeaks,healsosawthatitmightbeachallengingclimb,withnoeasyroutestothetop;otherclimbersmayhavebeenrepelledbysteepcliffsthatsupportthesummitridgeonallsidesandthreatensevereexposureonpotentialclimbingroutes.
Theweatherwasawful,butweweresurprisedtofindthattheascentofThunderbirdwaseasy.Thelastpart,throughmistandfog,wasalong
agoattrailthatfollowedascree-coveredledgeallthewayacrossthemountain’seastface.Wefollowedituntilwefoundawide,steepgullythroughthecliffs,andweresurprisedagainwhenwescrambledtothetopofthegullyandfoundourselvesonthesummitridge.Wehadpersistedduringanexceedinglyunpleasantday,enticedbytheprospectofafirstascent.Ourenthusiasmfadedasweapproachedthesummit,wherewecouldseeacairnbuiltbypreviousclimbers.
Suddenly,wewereinbrightsun-light.Thewetrocks,crustedwithcolorfullichens,sparkledaroundus.Belowus,ThunderbirdGlacieralsowasbathedinsunlight,butfarthereast,towardMt.Cleveland,allpeakswerestillshroudedinblackclouds.Alightningflashandaninstanta-neousthunderclapmadeuscrouchlownearthesummitcairn.Northof
us,beyondBoulderPass,twoofthehighestmountainsinGlacierPark,KintlaandKinnerlypeaks,wereemergingfromthemist.Snowfieldsontheirsouthernflanksweresunlit,buttheirsummitswerestillshroud-ed.Kinnerlyresembledanerupt-ingvolcanoascloudappearedtobespewingfromitsconicalsummit.Allwassunlitstillfarthernorth,asthewaningstormmovedeastward.Wetriedourbesttocapturethespectaclearoundusonfilm.
GordonalsothoughtourascentofThunderbirdwasespeciallymemora-ble,butfordifferentreasons,whichherecountedinissue21oftheJournaloftheGlacierMountaineer-ingSocietypublishedin1990,withwordscopiedfromhisfieldnotesforAugust31andSeptember1,1956.Heledthemorningnaturalist’shiketoGrinnellGlacieronAugust31
AnAscentofThunderbirdMountainSuddenly,wewereinbrightsunlight.Thewetrocks,crustedwithcolorfullichens,sparkledaroundus.(BobMegardphoto)
TheInsideTrail�Winter2005�9
andranallthewayfromtheglacierbacktohiscabinattheSwiftcurrentRangerStation.HepickedupTomLandis(afireguard)atSwiftcurrentandme(abellhop)atManyGlacierHotelandweheadednorthinhiscar,acrosstheInternationalBor-dertoWaterton,forourassaultonThunderbird.Thedistributorfailedandthecarstalled,butwefixeditandarrivedatWatertontoolatefortheafternoonboatweplannedtotaketoGoatHaunt,atthefarendofWatertonLake.WeplannedtospendthenightattheGoatHauntRangerStationandgetanearlystartthenextmorningforthehiketoBrownPassandtheclimbupThun-derbird.Instead,wetookinamovieandcampedatWaterton.Thenwetookthemorninglaunch,whichbattledfiercewindandwhitecapsfor10milesallthewaytotheheadofthelake.Wewerenowfarbehindschedulebutdeterminedtoattempttheclimb,sowe“hikedeightmilestoBrownPassandclimbedThun-derbirdinsnowsquallsandtremen-douswinds”,aswereconnoiteredtheroutehedescribedlaterinhisClimber’sGuide.
WearrivedbackatGoatHauntrangerstation,soakingwet,about8pm,longafterthelastboathadleftforthereturntripacrossthelakebacktoWaterton.Theranger’swifegaveushotchocolateandcrackers.Weweretoldthattherewasanewtelephoneconnection,sotheranger
calledWatertonandlocatedamanwhohadaboat.Slimwasfoundinabar,butagreedtoretrieveusforafeeof$5.00.AfterourreturntoWaterton,wedrankcoffeeandmilkshakesatthelittlecafé.About11:00pm,weleftWatertonforthebordercrossing,whichhadclosedforthenightabouttwohoursbeforewegotthere.Everythinglookeddarkonbothsidesoftheborder,butweparkedandwentaroundtotheAmericanside,wherewesawalightinarearroom.Theboarderguardwasinhispajamas,buthedressed,unlockedthegate,andletusacrosstheborder.WegothometoManyGlacierHotelandSwiftcurrentwithmorethanenoughtimetogettoworkinthemorning.
Weprobablydidn’tneedtoworryaboutlosingourjobsifwehadbeenlateforworkafterourmiserable
ascentofThunderbird.Itwastoolateintheseason;fewtouristswerecomingnow,studentemployeeswereleaving,andthehotelwasclosingdownfortheseason,althoughtherewasalwaystheominouspossibil-itythatwewouldnotbeinvitedbacknextyear.GordonandfamilyprobablyleftforCaliforniawithinafewdaystobeginanotheracademicyearatSanJose.Ialsoleft,tobegingraduateschoolattheUniversityofNewMexico,whichIhaddecidedonpartlybecauseAlbuquerquewasmuchclosertomountainsthanwereMinneapolis,MadisonorAnnArbor.
Gordon’sphotographsofmountainsreallychangedmylifeafterIfirstsawthemduringoneofhisnaturalist’slecturesthreeyearspreviously.Iwasaphotographerforthecollegenews-paperandnewsbureau.Ihadseenmanylandscapeportraitsofmoun-tainsoncalendarsandabovesofasinmid-westernliving-rooms.OthernaturalistsinGlacierParkshowedmostlypicturesofprettymountainsviewedfromvalleys,butneverhadIseensuchfantastictopographyuntilGordon’sphotography,insuchvividkodachromecolors,fromvantagepointssohighabovetherestoftheworld.
[Gordon]ledthemorningnaturalist’shiketoGrinnellGlacier...ranalltheway...backtohiscabinattheSwiftcurrentRangerStation.HepickedupTomLandisandmeatManyGlacier
Hotelandweheadednorthinhiscar...toWaterton,forourassaultonThunderbird.
Kinnerlyresembled
aneruptingvolcanoascloud
appearedtobespewing
fromitsconical
summit.(BobMegard
photo)
10�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail
ByJohnHagen(ManyGlacier1970-80)
IgottoknowGordonEdwardsdur-ingmyfirsttwosummersworkingasacounterhandatManyGlacierHotel.GordonoftenstoppedintheSt.MoritzRoomforanhourortwotowriteinthemanynotebooksthathekeptonmountaineeringandonalpineinsects.Hewasadistinctive
outinManyGlacier’sLowerDorm.Employeesinseveralroomsalongthefrontofthebuildingwerebeingdevouredatnightbymicroscopicpests.Gordonidentifiedthemasbirdlicewhichhadcreptinthroughthewallsfromswallows’nestsupundertheeaves.HedustedourbedswithDDT,whichpromptlyendedtheattacks.
Likethousandsofothers,I’vealsohadthepleasureofvicariousclimb-ingwithGordon.TheClimber’sGuidehassummonedupimagesofGlacieradventureformeinmanyplacesfarfromthePark.Iespeciallyrememberdaysinlawschool,op-pressedwithlonghoursofstudyingcases,whenIwouldrefreshmyselfwithfiveminutesofdiversioninGordon’sbook.
IneverlosemysenseofaweatGor-don’ssectiononMt.St.Nicholas,GlacierPark’smostdangerouspeak.Atonepointhestates:“Aledgeleadseastward…andgivesaccesstoaneasiercliffwhichis,however,aboveasheerdropofpossibly2,000feetandiscomposedofextremelyrottenrockslabsinaverticalwall.Thehandholdsherearethinslabsofquartziteandredargillitenotmorethanacoupleofinchesthick.Theywillnotstandthestrainofahori-zontalpull.Hereisaplacetoholdthemountaintogetherasyouclimbit!Keepyourelbowsagainstthecliffandmakesurethepullexertedontheholdsisstraightdownward.”
LikewisearrestingisGordon’sac-countoftheroutesupMt.Wilbur,allofwhichinvolvehair-raisingper-ilsaboveyawningchasms.Gordonfamouslygavethenameof“Thin
AdventuresRealandVicariouswithGordonEdwards
figureamongthecrowdsoftourists,withhisbarrelchest,plainwhiteT-shirt,andpleasantsmile.
IwasstruckfromtheoutsetbyGordon’sgenerosity.HisfamousClimber’sGuidewasoutofprintatthetime,anditwouldbeseveralyearsbeforeaneweditionappeared.Gordontooktimeoutofhisbusyprofessorialscheduletoxeroxandmailmeacopyduringtheoff-sea-son.Iwasimpressedthathewouldtakethistroubleforanobscureyoungemployee.
OnonedayoffinJune,afriendandIweredrenchedbyhoursofcoldrainwhiletakingahiketoRedEagleLake.ReturningfamishedtoSt.MaryLodge,weperverselyorderedmilkshakes.Gordonhappenedintotherestaurantandnoticedusthereshiveringandsippingonthoseshakes.HepromptlypackedusintohiscaranddroveusbacktoManyGlacier,curtailinghisotherplansfortheday.
Onanotheroccasion,Gordoncametotherescueinhisscientificrole.Aninfestationofwhattheemployeesbelievedtobebedbugshadbroken
IvividlyrecallthedayofGordon’sfamousgrizzlybearencounter.HewaschargedbyasowintheMorn-ingEagleValley,andmanagedtofendthefirstattackoffwithhisiceaxe.Inthesubsequentscramble,however,hisforearmwasclenchedbetweenthebear’steeth.Gordonpattedthebear’sfaceandspokegen-tly,andtheanimallethimgo.Iwasondutyasabellmanthatafternoonwhenhewalkednonchalantlyintothehotelandshowedmehisswollenandbleedingarm.
Ihadtheprivilegeofseveralout-ingswithGordon,Alice,andJane,includingahikealongthespectacu-largoattrailsaboveHelenLakeonthePtarmiganWall.Weimprovised
IwasstruckfromtheoutsetbyGordon’sgenerosity.
iceaxesoutofsharpstonestocrossasteepsnowfieldonAhernPass.Onanotheroccasion,IhadthebenefitoffollowingorangeribbonsthatGordonhadtiedontheflanksofMt.AllentomarkasaferoutetoSnowMoonLake.
Man’sPleasure”tooneoftheseroutes.Ashedescribesit:“[Climbthesmall,openchimneyjustsouthoftheprominentridge…About80feetup,thischimneypinchestogeth-erandendsinapeculiarcavitybe-neathanoverhang.Intheceilingof
WeimprovisediceaxesoutofsharpstonestocrossasteepsnowfieldonAhernPass.
TheInsideTrail�Winter2005�11
thiscaveisaholeabout2feetsquarethatgivesaccesstoaprotectedgullyaboveit.Theclimberswhofollowtheleaderhereshouldberoped,andwillcertainlybeexposedtoatrickleofgravelduringtheirordealinthecavity.”
TheClimber’sGuideisfullofcolor-fuldetails:thelightning-mangled
canthatheldthesummitregisteronGoing-to-the-SunMountain;thewhimperingporcupinesthatmakeitdifficulttosleepatGunsightLake;therockyblotchlikeabackwardsEthatmarkstherouteoverIcebergNotch;themysteriousswarmingofladybirdbeetlesontopofMountAllen.Especiallymemorableishisaccountof“theSpecteroftheBrock-
en”inthesectiononHeaven’sPeak.Thisrareapparition(namedafteramountaininGermany)occurswhenthewesteringsuncastsaclimber’sshadow,withasurroundingrainbowhalo,ontolowlyingclouds.
Gordon’sdepartureiswrenchingforfamilyandfriends,buthislegacycertainlywillcontinuetoenrichtheGlacierParkexperienceforcount-lesspeople.AndIhopetoseehimagain.TheprophetIsaiahdescribestheKingdomofHeavenwithim-agesofamountain.It’spleasanttoimagineclimbingwithGordononceagainoncelestialpeaks.
RememberingGordonEdwardscontinued
TheClimber’sGuidehassummonedupimagesofGlacieradventureformeinmany
placesfarfromthePark.
GordonascendingagullyonGoing-to-theSunMountain.Hewasalwaysathomewhenonamountain.(RolfLarsonphoto)
GordonandJanetraversingoneofthemanygoattrailshe‘sniffed’outoverhishalf-centuryofexplorationinGlacierPark.(RolfLarsonphoto)
12�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail
ByEdwardSanmanIII(ManyGla-cier,Swiftcurrent,andGPIAuditor,1964-72)
IfirstmetGordonEdwardsinJune1954attheManyGlacierRangerStation.HewasaseasonalRangerNaturalistandmyfatherwasaseasonalRangerattheManyGlacierEntranceStation.Iwas7yearsoldandthiswasourfamily’s3rdsum-merinGlacierand1stsummeratManyGlacier.TheEdwardsfamilywerelivinginthe2ndcabintotherightoftheRangerStation,andwewerelivinginthe1stcabintotheleft.TheirdaughterJanewasonlyabout1or2yearsold.
Thecabinwelivedinhad3rooms(bedroom/livingroom,bathroom,andkitchen).Thekitchenhadawoodburningstovewithovenandasmallrefrigerator.Thestovepro-videdheatforthecabinandhadaspecialsetofwaterpipesthatcon-nectedthestovetoawatertanktoprovidehotwater.
WhenwearrivedinManyGlacierandfoundoutaboutthishousingassignment,wethoughtwewereinheaven.Theprevioustwosum-merswehadbeeninApgarintheoldNybergCabinCamp.Thosecabinsonlyhadoneroom,atapwithcoldrunningwater(nosink,throwtherinsewateroutthefrontdoor),woodstove,norefrigerator,andacommunalouthouse(withseparatemen’sandwomen’ssides),2washtubs(forbathingandwashingclothes),and2electriclightsononeswitch.OurcabinatManyGlacierevenhadatelephone(handcrank)connectedtotheManyGlacierHotelswitchboard.Thephonewas
rightovertheheadofmybed.Eachofthe3roomshadanelectriclightpoweredbythehotelgeneratorbe-lowSwiftcurrentFalls.
Giventheroomlayoutofthecabins,entertaininghadtobeafamilyaffair—therewasnoseparateroomthatthechildrencouldbesentto.WhentheEdwardsentertained,theyfoundthattheverysmallpantry(offofthekitchenandnexttothebackdoor)wasbigenoughforamakeshiftcradlefortheirdaughter.
IrememberthatGordonwasanavidhikerandmountainclimber.HikingwasafamilyaffairandtheEdwardshadanearlyversionofabackpackforcarryinganinfant.Ievenre-memberaPostcardforsaleintheHotelsshowingtheEdwardshikinginGlacier(IthinkitwasalongtheGardenWall)carryingtheirdaughterinthebackpack.
GordonwasbestrememberedforhismountainclimbinginGlacier.Each
From1955to1959,myfatherwasstationedatotherlocationsaroundGlacierandsoIlosttrackofGor-don.Imethimagainin1968whenIwasworkingatSwiftcurrentMotorInnastheNightAuditor.GordonwouldvisitGlacierforseveralweekseachsummer,usuallystayingintheManyGlacierCampground.HewouldcomeovertothelobbyofSwiftcurrentMotorInnintheeveningsanduseoneofthewritingtablesforseveralhours.IalsosawGordonoccasionallyin1971and1972atSwiftcurrentMotorInnwhenIwasworkingastheRoving(Raving)Auditor.
IntalkingtoGordon,Ilearnedthattherewasanextensivenetworkofanimaltrailsatthehighereleva-tionsthatcouldbeusedbypeople.GordonofferedtoshowmeapathbetweenManyGlacierHotelandthecirquewhichheldSnowMoonandFallingLeafLakes.Ihadstudiedthegovernmenttopographicalmapand
ChildhoodMemoriesofGordonEdwards
summerhewouldclimbvariousmountainsandpeaksinGlacier.Hekeptnotesaboutvariousroutestothetopsandwhichoneswereprefer-able.HisenthusiasmforclimbinginGlaciergothimintotroublewhenhepainteda“THISWAYUP”signonthesideofamountain.TheParkServicewasnotamusedandmadehimremovethesign.Afewyearslater,GordonpublishedhisGlacierParkClimber’sGuide.
lookedattheterrainandcouldnotseeanyeasywaytogettotheselakes.GordonindicatedthattherewasamountainsheeptrailalongaledgeonthesideofMtAllenleadingintothehighcirque.
Iregretthatweneverfoundthetimetotakethathike.IwillalwaysrememberGordonasapersonwhoenjoyedtalkingwithpeople,lovedGlacierNationalParkandwasalwaysenthusedabouthikinginGlacier.
HewouldcomeovertothelobbyofSwiftcurrentMotorInnintheeveningsanduse
oneofthewritingtablesforseveralhours.
TheInsideTrail�Winter2005�13
ByJanaHjelmsethBaker(ManyGla-cier1980-81)andJacquieHjelmsethFennel(ManyGlacier1981)
DearDr.Edwards,
Youmaynotrememberus,butwearetwosistersfromMissoula,MontanawhomyougraciouslyinvitedtoclimbMt.ReynoldswithyouandyourlovelydaughterJaneinthesummerof1981.Weknowwe’vebeenremissinthoroughlyandproperlythankingyouforthehonorofmakingourfirstGlaciermountainascentsomemorable.Andyet,we’requitesurewereallyhadnoideathenhowfortunateandblessedweweretoaccompanyyouthatday.
JaquiehappenedtowaitonyouandJaneintheManyG.diningroomthenightbeforetheclimb.She
AThankYoutoGordonEdwardsrecallsyoubothbeingsokindandinteresting.Janewasespeciallyen-couragingofJacquieandhermusic.Beforeyouleft,youinvitedherandthetag-alonglittlesistertojoinyou.Whatluck–wehappenedtobeoffthenextday.Weacceptedwithoutathoughtthatwehadneverreallyclimbedamountainthattookmorethanjustwalkingtothesummit.
Somanyofthedetailsarefoggyforbothofusnowbuttheoveralldayisetchedinourmemories–glori-ous!We’resurethereweremomentsofinternalpanicatvariousdifficultspotsweencountered–chimneychutesthatwehadtoscrambleupanddownandextremelynarrowgoattrails,tonameafew.Butweprimarilyrememberthedaybeingdominatedbygreatconversation,
laughterandaneasethatwehaven’texperiencedsince.Dr.Edwards,youmadeourclimbfeellikeaniceeasywalktoRedRockFalls.Thatwasyourgifttousandtosomanyyouclimbedwithinyourlife.Youlovedyourcraftanddiditsoseem-inglywithoutmucheffortthatyouinspiredgenerationstodothesame.
Wecontinuetohaveapassionforhikingandclimbingwithourfamiliesandfriends.ItismarveloustomakeourwayoverthepasswhenwegettoGlacierandfeastoureyesonMt.Reynolds.Wedelightintherichexperienceyousogenerouslygavetous.Wedidn’tknowhowfor-tunatewewerethen,butwedonow.Thankyouforyourextraordinarylifeandhowittouchedusall.
JanaandJacquiejoinGordonandJaneon
thetraverseacrossthefaceofMountReynolds.
(PhotocourtesyofJanaHjelmsethBakerandJacquieHjelmseth
Fennell)
14�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail
ByRolfLarson(MGH1975,1977-80,NPS1981-1985)
GordonEdwardwaslargerthanlife.GlacierNationalParkdefinedhimforbetterthan50yearsofhislife,andinturn,hedefineduswhosharedhispassionforGlacier’smountains.Inall,heinfluencedthreegenerationsofclimbers.AstrongcasecanbemadethathedefinedthesportofclimbinginGla-cier.Hedefinedhowweseemoun-tains,howwerelatetothelandscapeandhowwerelatetoeachotheraspeoplewhouseGlacier’sbackcoun-try,especiallyclimbers.
Heexhibitedextraordinarypowersofobservation,intensepowersofunderstandingandasubtleabilityto
ByDaveShoup(Swiftcurrent,ManyGlacier1973-76)
AsawaiterfortwosummersatSwiftcurrentMotorInnin1974and1975,IfondlyrememberGordondrinkingcoffeemostmorningswiththelocal“mountaineeringgang,”talkingaboutthenextclimborhikeorpastexperience.Gordonalwayshadtimetogiveemployeesadviceonourclimbingexpeditions.MymostnotablememorywashikingwithAliceandGordononthePtarmiganWallgoattrailfromthePtarmiganTunneltoAhernPass.Hetookparticularinterestinaclimbseveral
ofusmadeupMt.Merrittin1974,givingusanewcanisterforclimberregistrationtoleaveatthesummit.
Oneevening,GordonheldaGlacierslideshowintheSwiftcurrentCoffeeShop.Ivividlyrecallhimdetail-inghisencounterwithabearnearMorningEagleFalls—talkinggen-tlytocalmthebearasitbitdeeply
GordonatSwiftcurrent
IfondlyrememberGordondrinkingcoffeemostmorningswiththelocal“mountaineeringgang,”
talkingaboutthenextclimborhikeorpastexperience.
understandandcommunicatewiththecreaturesandnaturalelementsthatsurroundedhiminGlacier.“Lookforgoattrails,”hewouldtellus.
ImetGordonduringmyfirstsum-merworkinginGlacier.IwasjustanotheryoungpersoncaughtbythelureofGlacier’smagicalpeaks.Thoughsurroundedbythrongsoffriends,whenhesensedmypassionforclimbing,hewelcomedme,ashedidhundredsofothersduringhishalfcenturyinGlacier.
Itreasurethememoriesoftimesspentwithhimandhisfamily.Iwillalwaysremembertheexpand-ingmealsatSwiftcurrentMotorInn
whenallwerewelcometojointhegroupandshareinlivelyconversa-tions.Iwillrememberthethrillofwatchinghimontheslopes.Hehadatendencytoalwayslookupslope,savoringtheadventureandassessingpossibilitiesateachledgeorturn.Iwillalwaysmarvelatthewayheknewwhatwasgoingtohappennext,beitapendingstormorapotentialhazard.Itwasasifheknewsomethingtherestofuscouldonlyguessat.
TheoverridingperceptionthatGor-donbroughttothesportofclimb-inginGlacierNationalParkwashisloveofGlacierandhispassionforthesportofclimbing.Heenjoyedtheentiremountainenvironmentandattemptedtosharethatbroaderenthusiasmwithallofuswhoseekguidancefromhisclimbingguide.Heguidedbothourheartsaswellasourhandsandfeet,sharingwithusnotonlysecretsofGlacier’shigh
intohishand.Onhishikeout,hetookapictureofhisenormouslyswollenhand,whichhesharedwiththeaudiencethatevening.
Healwayshadtimetohearstoriesofour“adventures”.(Iknowminecer-tainlypaledincomparison).Weallowemany,manythankstoGordonforhisClimber’sGuide.
PayingTributetoGordonEdwards
AstrongcasecanbemadethathedefinedthesportofclimbinginGlacier.
TheInsideTrail�Winter2005�15
placesbutawealthofmythandhis-torythathavebeenattachedtothisspecialplacebypeoplewhoseliveswerealsotouchedbythispassiontoexploreandexuberancetocelebrate.Nomatterhowsignificantorimpres-siveourpersonalaccomplishments,weasbackcountryusersinGlacierParkareonlyfollowinginGordon’s
footsteps.Withouthisintuition,in-telligenceandgraciousspirit,many,ifnotmostofuswouldneverhaveexperiencedthethrillandcamarade-rieofmanygreatdaysspentinthemountains,andmemoriesworthyofbeingpassedontoanyonewhowilllistentoourpersonaltales.
Iwouldpersonallyliketothankhim.Hemadeabetterpersonofme.Ithinktherearemanyofuswhosharethisfeeling.Wewereprivilegedtoknowthisman.
Wenowexperiencethepassingofthetorch.TheworldofclimbersinGlacierhasmovedfromthoseofuswhoknowthismantothosewhoknewhim.Itisatragedythatnobodyelsewillhavetheprivilegetoexperiencethisveryspecialmanaswedid.
Mayweallhavethestrengthandwisdomtopassonthelessonsthismansharedwithus.
Hedefinedhowweseemountains,howwerelatetothelandscapeandhowwerelatetoeachotheraspeoplewhouseGlacier’s
backcountry,especiallyclimbers.
GordonEdwardsdescribestherouteupIcebergNotch.Healwaysfoundtimetobothsharehisknowledgeandtolistentotheexperiencesofothers.(RolfLarsonphoto)
16�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail
byKayDohertyRoam(GlacierParkLodge1958,ManyGlacierHotel1959)
IdidnotwanttoworkatGlacierNa-tionalParkthatsummerof1958,after
WesternStar.Thedealwasthatyouhadtoworkthroughthesummertobegiventhereturnhalf—ifyouleftearlyyoupaidforityourself.Irecallthatcompensationforworkingsixdaysper
Onaboutthethirdmorning,whiledoingmydutyinthedormbathroom,Ioverheardthehotelmanager’ssecre-tarytellafriendthattheyweregoingtohavetosendbacktoSt.PaulforanewPBXoperatorbecauseonethattheyhadhiredwasalreadyhomesickandheadedforthebarn—hangthecostofthetick-et.Icameboilingoutofthestallandhollered,“No,no,IamatrainedPBXoperatorandwouldlovetohavethejob!”Shelookedmeupanddownandtheninstructedmetoreportfordutyat7:00thenextmorning.Itwasabsolutelythebestjobinthepark.Youwererightinthemiddleofeverything,seatednexttotheroomclerkatthefrontdesk.Youwerethefirsttoknoweverybody’sbusi-
IdidnotwanttoworkatGlacierNationalParkthatsummerof1958,afterfinishingmy
sophomoreyearattheUniversityofMinnesota.
finishingmysophomoreyearattheUniversityofMinnesota.Itwouldmeangivingupmycushyroom-and-boardjobworkingontheswitchboardinthedorm,andthatwouldmeanmov-ingbackhome—perishthethought.Butstressedbytwojobsandaseven-teencredithourloadasachemistrymajor,ItwicethatspringendedupintheUniversityHospital.ThatdiditforMomandDad.OneofDad’sgoodfriendswasagolfbuddyofDonKnutson,whosecompanythenman-agedtheparkhotels.DadhauledmetoMr.Knutson’sofficeforaninterview—didn’ttrustmetogoonmyown—andIwalkedawaywithasignedcontracttobeahallcleaneratGlacierParkLodgeandone-halfofaroundtriptickettoEastGlacierontheGreatNorthern’s
IwalkedawaywithasignedcontracttobeahallcleaneratGlacierParkLodgeandone-half
ofaroundtriptickettoEastGlacierontheGreatNorthern’sWesternStar.
weekwas85centsanhour,plusroomandboardandtheticket.
UponarrivalIwastoldthatIhadbeenupgradedtoroomcleaner—noad-ditionalmoney,alas.Mytrainingtookjustlongenoughtocleanoneroom,
withemphasisonhospitalsheetcornersonthebeds.Istillrememberthatthedrinkingglassesinthebathroomwereencasedintidylittleglassinebags—afterhavingbeenrinsedoutinthesink.Somuchforsanitation.
ness.Thesplitshiftswere7-noonand6-11PMonedayandnoon-6PMthenext,whichwereidealforstudyingonthejobandexploringtheareawhenoff.
RunningthePBXinthe1950’sCarolynAnderson
Woodbury,KayDohertyRoamandLisaAmbrose
atManyGlacierfrontdesk,1959.(Kay
DohertyRoamphoto)
TheInsideTrail�Winter2005�17
RunningthePBXcontinued
“No,no,IamatrainedPBXoperatorandwouldlovetohavethejob!”Shelooked
meupanddownandtheninstructedmetoreportfordutyat7:00thenextmorning.
WhenshewasbusyIwouldassisttheroomclerkandthemostfamouspersonIcheckedinwasTennesseeErnieFord,whomIrecallasalovelygentleman.Whenitwasn’tbusyIcouldwatchwhatwasgoingoninthelobbyandwasoc-casionallyknowntopickbarkofftheponderosalogpillarlocatednexttothePBXboard.
Lifeintheparkwasarevelation.Idiscoveredmountains,hiking,freshair,hitchhiking,theabilitytomakefriends.IgainedsomuchweightonthegoodfoodthatIhadtosendMomanSOSforsomelargerclothes.Ilearnedthattheultimatestatussymbolwastohaveagearjammerboyfriendandtoproveitbyironinghisredcowboyshirtinthedormfrontroom,preferablyintheeveningwhentherewerethemostto
notice.IknewIhadarrivedwhenIwashandedashirtthatneededattention.
Ilovedbeingabletorideonthebussesondaysoffwhentheyweren’tfull,andinshortorderhadvisitedalltheotherhotelsintheparkandPrinceofWalesatWaterton.TwoorthreeofuscouldridethebustoLoganPass,hikeoverSwift-currentPasstoMany,andthensafelyhitcharidebackhome.Ineverdidgetstrandedormisshavingmyownwheels.Ifellinlovewiththesmellofthepineswhentheyweredampandyearslaterboughtahousemostlybecausethepinesintheyardhadbeenrainedonthenightbefore.Ihadnevernoticedwildflowers,andtheircolorandvarietyandprofu-sionwereoverwhelming.
Thatsummerwasoverinflash,butbeforecollectingmytrainticketIsignedacontracttoworktheboardthenextsummeratManyGlacier.Oh,my—evenbetter,deepintheheartofthepark.OneofmybestManymemorieswasthosetalentedfolkswhopresentedthemusicalshowsintheevening.WhocouldeverforgetDeAnnaDoughertybeltingout“I’mjustagirlwhocan’tsayno”in“Oklahoma!”Orthethreebell-menwho,intheirlederhosen,intro-ducedustothetunesoftheKingstonTrio.Ormyroommate,MargieLadd,abagpiperfromtheUniversityofIowawhoseplaintivetonescouldmakeamagpiecry.Me,too,becauseitusuallytookthetwoofusthebetterpartofanhourtogetherintoherregalia,withtimeouttocrawlaroundonthefloorforthemissingcontactlensortwo.
CarolynAndersonwastheroomclerkIworkedwithandIlookedonwithapprovalasBillWoodbury,boatmanforMr.Burch,courtedher.Istillamincontactwiththemand,infact,itwastheythatintroducedmetotheGlacierParkFoundation.BecausetheUofMbeganclasseslaterintheyearthanmostschools,Iwasabletostayontohelpclosedownthehotels.OnedayIreceivedacallthattherewasafiresomewherenearthehotelwithheavysmoke.DoingsomeresearchIfoundthatMr.Burchhadorderedanewboatforthenextyearandhaddecidedthatthebestwaytogetridoftheoldonewassimplytoburnitoutonthelake.Sosubsequentcallerscouldsimplybetoldthattheboatwasbeingdeliberatelyburned.Istillthinktherearesomewhodisbelievedme.
Myred-cowboy-shirtedjammeroftheprevioussummer,RhodesPerry(anyonehaveanyideawhatbecameofhim?—hewasamedicalstudentatBaylorUni-versityinTexaswhileatGlacier)camebackforavisitandgatheredagroupoffriendsforamoresoberandsedatere-RedbusatChiefMountainCustoms;JanFranke,KayDoherty
Roam,JohnDuchow,JeanneStokes.(KayDohertyRoamphoto)
18�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail
unionattheSwiftcurrentcampground.HeandIwereatonepointleaningagainsthiscarwhilewaitingforthecoffeepotonthecampfiretoboil,whensuddenlythecarbegantoshake.Think-ingmaybeabearwaspushingonit,wepulledoutourflashlightsandexploredtheareatonoavail.Whenwereturnedtothedorm,welearnedoftheHebgenearthquakedowninYellowstone.
Ihadafunnyexperienceduringthelate1960’s.IendedupmarryingmyhighschoolboyfriendandonesummerwhilewewerelivinginOregonweheadedtoMinneapolistovisitthefolks.WedecidedtoreallysplurgewithanightatMany,ratherthanstayinginthecamp-ground.Afterdinnerwegotthethreelittleboystosleepandthendecidedto
RunningthePBXcontinued
slipdowntothebarjustoffthelobbyforanightcap.ItwasdarkandcrowdedandasIplowedmywaythroughthethronglookingforacoupleofemptychairsahandreachedoutandgrabbedmyslacks.ReadytoswatwhomeverwasbeingsofreshIlookeddownandtomyutteramazementsawmyoldbagpiperroommateMargiesittingtheregrinning.OfcoursewejoinedherandherdentisthusbandandthenexchangedChristmascardsforyears.
Inthesummerof2003,Isignedupforaten-daytourofLewisandClarksites
“Oh,they’reevenbiggerthanIremembered.”
tripmateswerewellawarethatthiswasamuch-anticipatedhomecomingforme.WhenthebusturnedwestatBabbandthebelovedmountainsbegantocomeintoview,Ibreathed“Oh,they’reevenbiggerthanIremembered.”Whatawonderfulmoment!Compoundedbythefactthatthetourdirectorhadaskedthehoteltogivemethebestroomintheplaceratherthantheoldcoalbinusuallyassignedtosingletravelers.AbigcornerroomwithwonderfulviewsoverSwiftcurrentLake.Ihaddiedandgonetoheaven.ButImanagedtowake
inMontana.ThedecidingfactorwastherideoverLoganPassinoneofthenewjammerbussesandanightatManyGlacier.Bythetimewegottheremy
upearlyenoughthenextmorningtoheadoutwiththetrustycamerainhandandtakeacoupleofrollsofthesunrise.
Thechorusof“Oklahoma!”in1959,DeeDaughertyinstripes.(KayDohertyRoamphoto)
MargieLaddin1959.(KayDohertyRoamphoto)
TheInsideTrail�Winter2005�19
ByJohnB.Turner
Iwouldliketosharewithyourreadersmyfamily’smemorableexperiencesatGlacier,whichspanmorethan60years.
Myparents,JohnF.Turner,ofTexas,andMaryT.TurnerofMinnesota,metatGlacierwhileworkingsummerjobsinthepark.DadwasaGearjammerfrom1936to1939,andhewasthefirstdriverofbus#99whenthenewfleetwasfirstintroducedinthesummerof1937.HelaterbecametheDispatchAgentatEastGlacier,duringthesum-mersof1940and1941.AsDadfondlyremembers,henoticedthename“MaryTreacy”ofMinnesotaontheincomingtrainmanifest,andbecamedeterminedtomeether.Asfatewouldhaveit,Momgotajobacrossthelobbyasacashier,andsotheirfriendshipbegan.HeeventuallyproposedtoherattheEastGlaciertrainstation,andtheyweremarriedin1942.TheymovedtoCali-fornia,wheretheyraisedfivechildren:Byron,Ann,Judy,SaraandDavid.TheyhavereturnedtotheParkafewtimesovertheyears,includingthememorablesummerof1989whenourfamilyheldareunionatWaterton.Duringthe’89reunion,welookedeverywhereforDad’sbelovedbus#99,butalaswithnoluck,andwefinallysettledontakingourfamilyphotoinfrontofadifferentredbus.
Formanymonths,allfivesiblingsandthegrandkidshadbeenplanninganotherreunionatourbrotherDavid’shouseinnearbyWhitefish,MT.Mom’shealthhadbeenfailingforseveralyears,andDadhadbeenhouseboundformuchofthattimecaringforher,soitwasnotanoptionforthemtoattend
the2004gathering.Asthereunionapproached,Mom’shealthdeterio-rated,andsadly,shepassedawayinJune,bringingusalltogetheramonthearlyforamoresomberreunion.Afterthefuneral,wealldecidedtofollowthroughwiththeplannedJulyreunionandtriedtoencourageDadtojoinus,sincehisburdenofcaregivinghadcometoanend.Butduetohis89yearsandafewnaggingailments,hetoldushedidnotthinkitwaswisetomakethetrip.
InJuly,weallcongregatedinWhite-fishasplanned,onlytounexpectedlydiscoverthatonhisowninitiative,Dadhadgoneon-line,bookedhisownticketandflowntothereunion,muchtothesurpriseanddelightofusall.Toaccom-modatethishappydevelopment,wedecidedtochangethewholefocusofthesiblingreunion:westartedtoplanatriptoGlacierinhopesoffindingDad’soldbus#99.Wewantedtorecreateourfamilyphotofrom15yearsago,onlythistimeinfrontoftherightredbus.
WeleftWhitefishandbeganoursearchfor#99attheWestGlacierLodge,whereweencounteredseveraloftheoldbuses.Dadreminiscedwithsomeofthecurrent“Jammers”whileourcamerasclicked.WethensetoutoverLoganPassasDadtoldtalesalongtheway,stoppingforlunchandmorestoriesatSt.Mary’sJunction,butnosight-ingof#99.Afterlunch,wewenttoManyGlacierandmet“Jammer”DavidEglsaer(alsofromTexas)andJoeandGeriKendall,whohaveworkedattheparksince1949.WewereallspellboundasthefourofthemexchangedstoriesoftheiryearsworkingatGlacier.Duringtheconversationtheysuggestedthatold#99
After67years...
FindingOldNo.99mightbeatEastGlacier,sodowntheroadwealleagerlywent.
ArrivingatEastGlacier,wesoondiscoveredthe75thanniversarydisplayinthelobby,andwerethrilledtofindDadinthegroupphotooftheoriginal1937Gearjammers!Allofthe
otherpicturesandmemorabiliaondis-playbroughtoutmanymorestoriesandmemoriesfromDad.Bythen,wewereallstunnedatthesequenceofeventsthatwasmakingthissuchamagicaldayforthefamily.Buttherewasstillnosignofold#99.
Aswewereabouttowrapuptheday,onefinalsurprisefoundusinfrontoftheLodge:oneofDad’sgranddaughtersmetanotherdrivernamedBrockHaley(fromAtlanta).Asitturnsout,Brockisthecurrentdriverofbus#99,andsoourmagicaldayimprobablycontinuedasDadandBrockexchangedmorewon-derfulstories.BrockgraciouslylistenedtoDad,andhisloveandprideforthePark,andhiswillingnesstoshareitwithhispassengers,wereevidentinallhiswords.Brocktoldushecouldarrangeforashuttlebustotakeusalldowntothelotwhere#99wasparkedfortherestoftheday.BrockopeneditupandletDadsitinthedriversseatasweallposedforphotos...Brocktookturnsshootingwithaboutadozendifferentcamerassothatwecouldallgohomewithourownmemories.
Itwasatrulymemorableday,andwecannotthanktheParkanditsemploy-eesenoughforgoingoutoftheirwaytomakeitsospecialforDadandhisfamily.HehasravedabouthisdaysatGlacierforsomanyyears,anditwassoheartwarmingtoencounteryourpresentdayemployeeswhostilltakesuchprideintheirworkandinsharingtheParkwithitsmanyvisitors.WelookforwardtovisitingtheParkagaininyearstocome.Pleasepassoursincerethanksalongtoeveryonewhomadeour2004reunionsomemorable.
(PhotocourtesyofJohnB.Turner)
20�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail
AllfriendsofGlacierParkareinvitedtojointheGlacierParkFoundation.MembershipincludesasubscriptiontoTheInsideTrailandtherighttovotefordirectors.PleasedownloadamembershipformfromourWebSite(www.glacierparkfoundation.org)orsendyourname,address,phonenumber,andparkexperiencetoGlacierParkFoundation,Box15641,Minneapolis,MN55415.
AnannualmembershipintheFoundationcosts$10.A“FriendofthePark”membershipcosts$25annually,cumulatingtoaLifetimemembershipinfiveinstallments.ALifetimemembershippaidinoneinstallmentcosts$100.
TheGlacierParkFoundationisa§501(c)(3)nonprofitcorporation.Contributionsaretaxdeductibletotheextentpermittedbylaw.
JOINTHEGLACIERPARKFOUNDATION
(PanoramabyChristineBaker)
GordonEdwardswasbyprofessionascientist.Bystylehewasanaturalistandteacher.Inthispicture,hetakesamomenttorestandenjoyahard-earnedperchatopthePtarmiganWall.(RolfLarsonphoto)