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The Inside TrailWinter 20051 Remembering J.GordonEdwards VoiceoftheGlacierParkFoundationWinter2005VolumeXIX,No.1 Alsointhisissue: •FindingOldNo.98 •RunningthePBXinthe1950s GordonisstandingonThunderbird PeaklookingtowardKintlaPerak afterastormonAugust31,1956. (BobMegardPhoto)

VoiceoftheGlacierParkFoundation Winter2005 ... · JohnMauff’sFall Wed.9July1978:Thiswasoneof ourmorememorableexpeditionsin Glacier.Gordon,Jane,JohnMauff, JoeSteffen,RandyKay(theMany

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Page 1: VoiceoftheGlacierParkFoundation Winter2005 ... · JohnMauff’sFall Wed.9July1978:Thiswasoneof ourmorememorableexpeditionsin Glacier.Gordon,Jane,JohnMauff, JoeSteffen,RandyKay(theMany

The Inside Trail◆Winter 2005◆1

RememberingJ.GordonEdwards

VoiceoftheGlacierParkFoundation■Winter2005■VolumeXIX,No.1

Alsointhisissue:•FindingOldNo.98•RunningthePBXinthe1950s

GordonisstandingonThunderbirdPeaklookingtowardKintlaPerakafterastormonAugust31,1956.(BobMegardPhoto)

Page 2: VoiceoftheGlacierParkFoundation Winter2005 ... · JohnMauff’sFall Wed.9July1978:Thiswasoneof ourmorememorableexpeditionsin Glacier.Gordon,Jane,JohnMauff, JoeSteffen,RandyKay(theMany

2�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail

GlacierParkFoundationP.O.Box15641Minneapolis,MN55415www.glacierparkfoundation.org

BoardofDirectors:TessieBundickLauraChiharaJanetEisnerCornishCarolRepulskiDahleJoyceDaugaardGlenElvigLeeFlathDavidGilbertsonJohnHagenEinarHansonPaulHoffMarkHufstetlerJeffKuhnLindaYoungKuhnRolfLarsonLeroyLottGregNotess

MacWillemssen

TheGlacierParkFoundationwasformedbyGlacierParkemployeesandvisitorswhohaveadeeploveforthisspecialplace.TheFoundationiscommitedbothtotheimportanceofwildernesspreservationandtotheimportanceofplaceslikeGlacierasclassroomswherepeoplecanexperiencewildernessinintensemeaningfulways,learningnotonlyalovefortheland,butalsoarespectthatnurturestheskillsnecessarytopreservethatland.TheFounda-tionhasaspecialinterestinGlacierPark’shistory,traditionsandvisitorfacilities.

TheInsideTrailtakesitsnamefromthefamousoldtrailwhichconnectedGla-cierParkLodgewiththevanishedchaletsatTwoMedicine,CutBank,andSt.Mary.Thenamethusem-phasizesthepublication’sfo-cusontheloreandhistoryofGlacierNationalPark.Weinvitesubmissionofhistori-cal,scientific,oranecdotalarticles,commentary,poetry,orartworkforpublicationinfutureissues.

Officers:JohnHagen,PresidentEinarHanson,FirstVicePresidentCarolDahle,VicePresident-MembershipMacWillemssen,SecretaryTessieBundick,HistorianJimLees,TreasurerRolfLarson,InsideTrailEditor

Dr.J.GordonEdwards,authorofAClimber’sGuidetoGlacierNationalPark,diedonthetrailonAugust19,2004.Dr.Edwardswas84yearsold.

HewasalegendarymountaineerandoneofthemostdistinguishedandfamousfiguresinGlacier’shistory.

Dr.EdwardswassettingoutonaclimbofDivideMountainwhenhecol-lapsedanddied.HewaswithhiswifeAlice,hisinseparablecompaniononGlacier’strailsandpeaksformorethan55years.TheirdaughterJanewas

leadingaclimbofMt.Cannonatthetimeofherfather’sdeath.

Dr.EdwardsleavesbehindmanyhundredsofGlacierfriends.Despitehisfame,hewasunassumingandwonderfullypersonable,alwayswillingto

discussmountaineeringwiththegreenestnovice.

Dr.EdwardswasaGlacierParkFoundationmemberfromitsbeginningin1980.HefrequentlywroteforTheInsideTrail.Thisissuefeaturesaspecial

memorialsectiondedicatedtohim.

FarewelltoGordonEdwards

GordonEdwardsleadingagrouponthePtarmiganWall,asalways

theconsumatehost,freelysharingmagicalplaceswiththoseofus

whohadtheincrediblegoodfortunetosharetime

withthisgracioushost.(DaveShoup)photo

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TheInsideTrail�Winter2005�3

TheInsideTrailwelcomesnotonlyarticles,butalsobrieflettersandanec-dotes.Hereareafewwhichweresenttousrecently.

FarewelltoMarkTyersMarkTyers’manyfriendsandfansfromHootenannydaysof1973-75willbesaddenedtoknowthatthisworldlostagreatmusicianlastJune,whenhesteppedoutontoHeaven’sPeaks,followin’theDrinkin’Gourd,afteralongillness.

KathyTyers(MGH1973-75)

AWeddingInvitationFellowgearjammerEmilySlagle(#87)andI(#101)willbegettingmarriedonJune25.MythankstoLeroyLottforrecruitingmetobeajammer!Anyonethatshowsupattheweddinginanoldrediswel-come.

BradDieringer(Gearjammer2000)

ReunionwithRedBus#105Ispenttwoyearsoftime-consum-inglaboracquiringgearjammerlistsandorganizingthefirst-everdecades-widereunionofdriversoftheredbussesinJune2002.IwassittinginthelobbyofGlacierParkLodgelisteningtothededicationspeecheswhenmywife,Billie,sentamessengertogetmetojoinheroutsideatthefrontdriveway.Tomygreatsurprise,theresatmybusfrom1950(number105),surroundedbyabeautiful,largeblueribboncov-eredbyalayerofthickwhitesnow.Withnocoat,wearingmyFord-is-suedlongsleeve“OnceaGearjam-mer,AlwaysaGearjammer”shirt,Icommencedthephotocelebration.WhatawonderfulChristmasinJune!

LeroyLott(Gearjammer1949-50)

GLACIERBULLETINBOARDTheUbiquitous“Reds”MywifeandIrecentlytouredNewEnglandandstayedacoupleofdaysattheTrappFamilyLodgenearStowe,Vermont.Theyhaveagiftshop(ofcourse),andamongotherthingsweboughtaCDoftheVonTrappchildren–whoarecarry-ingonthefamilymusicaltradition–singingChristmassongs.Whenwegothomeandweresortingthroughourpurchases,InoticedsomethingveryfamiliaronthebackoftheVonTrappCD.Sureenough,twopicturesofthekidssittingandstandinginfrontof–aGlacierParkredbus!We’reeverywhere!

PaulReinhard(Gearjammer1959-61)

GenerationsinGlacierOurgranddaughter,LindseyFifield,workedthefrontdeskatManyGlacierin2003-04.HermotherMarthawasatSt.Maryin1974.Betty(hergrandmother)workedthediningroomatManyin1946-47.Betty’suncle,OlieLandkamer,droveoneofthefirstbusestotheLoganPassDedicationinJuly1933.ThatisalmostfourgenerationsinGlacier!

LeoandBettySchneider.

ReunionPlansManyGlacieremployeesof1967-68-69areplanningabigreunionatManyin2007.Plantoattend–let’sbringbackanalumniHootenanny!

KeithBearden(ManyGlacier’67-’68)

ChallengingmyBusNumberI’mstillaround–now84yearsold!Ihopetomatchmybusnumber(97)beforeIleave.I’mfromtheGlacierParkclassof1942–howmanyareleft?

JoeFunk

AFatefulCoinFlipImetmyhusbandwhenhecamehitchhikingthroughGlacierin1952.HehadflippedacointodeterminewhichroutetotakebacktoVancouver,Canada.Wemarriedayearlater.

HarrietStapleton(GlacierParkLodge1952)

KudostotheInsideTrailI’velivedallovertheU.S.,relocatingwithmyhusband’sjob,andyouhavealwaysbeenabletofindmewithTheInsideTrail.ForthisIameternallygrateful.MyonesummeratGlacierwasterrificandIwouldhavecomebackbuthadalreadygraduatedfromcollegeandmyparentsthoughtitwouldbegoodtotakemeoffthedolesoIwouldbemotivatedtofindarealjob.Beingtheparentofacol-legefreshman,Inowseethewisdomoftheirways.

I’mpitchinglongandhardformykidstoworkattheparkbytellingstoriesoffriends,hikesandfreshmountainair.Thiswouldalsogivemeanexcusetocomebackandvisit.Keepupthegoodwork,keepsendinginfo,andI’llkeepreadingitwhiledreamingofthedayIretireandcantakeoneoftheredbusesintotheparkandborethepantsoffthenewdriverswithmytalesofyes-teryear.AllmybestfromMissouri(formerlyTexas(4cities),Ohio,LouisianaandAlabama).

Trisha(Wiggins)Lee(ManyGlacier1973)

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4�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail

(PhotobyLarryBurton.1939-2004.OverlayroutemapisadrawingbyGordonEdwardsfrom“AClimber’sGuidetoGlacierNationalPark,”reprintedwithpermissionoftheGlacierNaturalHistoryAssociation)

DickSchwab

RobertMegard

JohnHagen

EdwardSanmanIII

DaveShoup

JanaHjelmsethBakerandJacquieHjelmsethFennel

RolfLarson

Page 5: VoiceoftheGlacierParkFoundation Winter2005 ... · JohnMauff’sFall Wed.9July1978:Thiswasoneof ourmorememorableexpeditionsin Glacier.Gordon,Jane,JohnMauff, JoeSteffen,RandyKay(theMany

TheInsideTrail�Winter2005�5

ByDickSchwab(MGH1947-52)

Ithinkthebesteulogymyfamilycouldmakeforourgreatfriend,Gordon,isalreadyinmyGlacierdiary,whichrecordsthehappyandexcitingdaysofgrandadventureweenjoyedwithhim,Alice,andJaneoverthepastthirtyyears.ThefollowingselectionofdiaryentriesgiveanimmediatesenseofGor-donassomeonewhohadadventurebuiltintohimandwhogeneratedunforgettablememoriesforallwhoknewhim.Spreadoveragenera-tionofgoodtimes,thesenotesbearwitnesstothekindness,generos-ity,andhumorofGordon’slivelyspirit,whichmadeallourhourswithhimsopleasurableandmemorable.WheneverIreadthemoverIsmileandthinkhowluckyweweretohaveknownthisgreatman.

grasshoppersandGordonwithhisnetandkilljar.WepeeredovertheclifftoseethemilkycolorofCrackerLakestraightdownbelow.

JohnMauff’sFallWed.9July1978:ThiswasoneofourmorememorableexpeditionsinGlacier.Gordon,Jane,JohnMauff,JoeSteffen,RandyKay(theManyGlacierdancebandleader)andIstartedoutonabeautifulday,climb-ingtoSnowmoonfirstandthenuptheridgetotheeastoverlook-ingCrackerLake.Fromthereweascendedacliffypitchandgotonto

PerhapsitwasJane,inconjunctionwithsomeoneelse,whoknewhowtopulltheskinontheskulltogethersothetwosidesofthegashmatchedwell,andthensecuredthecutwitha“butterfly”dressingthatkeptthewoundtightlyclosed.John,withhisamazingtoleranceforpainandalmostcasualattitudetowardacci-dentsofthiskind,satquietlytalk-ingwithusforawhile,takingsomenourishmentintheformofacandybarorso,andtheninsistedweplodforwardtothesummit.

Gordon,worryingaboutgoingbackdownthecliffysideofAllentoSnowMoon,etc.,decidedweshouldcutacrossthegreatwesternscreeslopeofAllenontheJosephinesideandmakeourwaythroughthatterriblebutsafejungleofaldersalongasteepstreamthateventuallyintersectstheuppertrailontheeasternsideofLakeJosephine.John,alwaysgameandamazinglystoical,althoughperhapsnotquitewithhisusualsure-footedness,weatheredthede-scentremarkablywell.Iwentaheadcrashingthroughthealders,findingroutesaroundlittlecliffsalongthewaterfallsofthecreek.Itwasahotandsweatyoperation.Thealdersservedascushionsandobstaclestobepushedthrough,andsoalthoughitwasquitesafeitwasalsoquiteatravailtogetdownthisway.Tomakethingsabitworse,therewasa

ThefollowingselectionofdiaryentriesgiveanimmediatesenseofGordonassomeonewhohad

adventurebuiltintohimandwhogeneratedunforgettablememoriesforallwhoknewhim.

AdventureswithGordonEdwards

Thesenotesbearwitnesstothekindness,generosity,andhumorofGordon’slively

spirit,whichmadeallourhourswithhimsopleasurableandmemorable.

thelong,longupperridge.IthinkthisiswhatGordon,Alice,andJanehavecalledstrollingalongthegreat“TightropeintheSky”whichisamuchhigherridgethananyotheroneitherside,offeringmagnificentviewsalloverthePark.

Asweweregoingupafairlygentleslopewithcliffyoutcroppings,John,whowaswalkingandtalkingwithJoeSteffen,losthisfooting,toppledoverbackward,andsustainedaverynastycutonhisforehead.Weallrusheddowntoadministerfirstaid.

RedGrasshoppersandRedArgilliteWed.25July1973:Mark[ourson,12yearsold],GordonEdwards,JohnMauff,someothers,andIwentupGordon’sroutetoSchwabFalls[onthestreamflowingoutofSnowMoonLake].FromSnowMoonweclimbedupashoulderofMt.AllenthatlooksoverCrackerLake.GordonputMarktoworkcatchingtheredgrasshoppersthatmatchedtheredGrinnellargil-liteontheslope.Itwasawonderfulscene:MarkandGordoncatchingthe

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6�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail

rumblingofthunderasabigstormseemedtobeapproachingusfromthewest,andoccasionallywefeltaheavydropofrain.Arealdownpourwouldhavemadeforbadfooting,butwithgoodluckwefinallybrokethroughtothetrailbeforethestormhit.Johncasuallysuggestedaswegottothetrailthatweallmakeforthegrilltohaveabeer!

The“HighRollersClub”Tues.31July1979:Thiswasoneoftheall-timegreatadventuresduringourtimeinGlacier–andnearlyamajormisadventure.Gordon,JoeSteffen,WorthandCarolynMoffat,andIsetoffwithseveralothersonabeautifuldayonGordon’sHelenLakeOverlookGoatTrail.ThisspectaculartripstartsaboveandtotherightofthePtarmiganTunnel,weavesaroundbehindthePtarmiganWall,upanddown,andalongledgesthroughsplendidcountrywiththegrandestviews.

WewereinsightoftheamazingnarrowgoattrailhighaboveHelenLakeonthewaytoAhernPass,whensuddenlyCarolyntrippedandstartedrollingdowntowardacliff.Everyonewasshoutingathertospreadherarms.Forawhile,fromtheanglewhereIstood,Icouldseethetopofherblondheadasshespedalonglikearollingpintowardacliffysection.Joewasexperiment-ingaroundlikeahumanflyonacliffaboveandwasshoutingathertospreadherarms,andWorthwasrushingalongafterher.Suddenlyshesortofflippedandendedupsittingdazedwithherbackagainstarockoutcropping.Weweresureshemusthavebrokensomebones,

RememberingGordonEdwardscontinued

GordonleadingagroupalongaGoatTrailonthePtarmigan-Ahernroute.TheEdwardscalledthisroutethe“GreatTightropeintheSky“.Gordon,asalwaysleading,isdisappearingintothemistatthefront,whileJaneisattherearwearinghertrademarkstrawhat.ThispictureisfromadifferenttripthantheonementionedinDick’sstory.However,DickandhissonMarkwerealsoonthisadventure.Youcanseetheirsilhouettesinthemiddleofthegroup.(RolfLarsonphoto)

butshesustainedonlyabrasionsandtoreafingernailorso.Ofcourseshewasprettymuchshocked.Wefedhercandiesandcheckedherout.Theproblemwashowtogetheroutofthatveryawkwardplaceonthewrongsideofthewall.

Gordonrememberedthatoncehe,Alice,andJanehadbeenoverthere,andthetwoladieshadsomereasontogetbackearly.Theyhadclimbedupthroughacleftinthewallthatdidnotlooktoohardtogetto,andtheymadetheirwaydownthe

othersidetothePtarmigantrail.Wedecidedthisiswhatwewouldhavetodonow,andafterabitofarestwebegantheslowascentto-wardthecleft.EveryonegatheredclosetoCarolynlikeworkerbeesaroundthequeen,guidinghereverystep.Butwedidnotknowexactlywhatitwouldbelikeontheotherside.Someonemadethemistakeofmuttering,“Idreadtothinkwhatwe’llseewhenwegettothetop.”IfCarolynheardthisshedidnotlosespirit,butseemedtopickupenergythemoreweclimbed.

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TheInsideTrail�Winter2005�7

Whenwegottothetopitwasclearthatitwouldnotbeterriblydifficulttodescendifweengagedincarefulroute-finding.GordonfashionedasortofropeleashforCarolyn.Hehadhergoaheadofhim,whileothersstayedinfrontofher,andwebegantheadventureofgettingdowntothetrail.Myjobwastobetheroute-finder,anditturnedoutthattherewerequiteeasywaystogetthroughthecliffypartsandthentotraipsedownthescreeandsteepgrassy,bushyslopetothetrail.ItwasamusingtolookaroundandseeCarolyngamelymakingherwayinfrontofGordonwhowasholdingontotheropecarefullysoasnottojerkheroffbalancebuttogivehersupportifitwereneeded.

Weallwerequiteexuberantwhenwegotbacktothetrail.Andsoitturnedouttobeanunforgettableandvictoriousday.Wehada“GatorAdeOrgy”atPtarmiganFalls,whichwasthefirstgoodwatersourceonthewayback.WorthbrokeouthisendlesssupplyofGatorAdemix.WeallcongratulatedCarolynforhergrit.

Inanycase,Carolynjoinedtheranksofthe“HighRollers,”aninformalclubweestablishedforthosewhohadbeeninvolvedinepisodessuchasthis.Therearemanydistin-guishedmembersamongus.Andmostofushavequalifiedaswellforthetitleof“Rolaids,”whoarethosewhohelptheHighRollersgetdown.OnenightGordon,Alice,Jane,andIspentagoodshareoftheeveningoverintheloungeofthehotelnexttothediningroom,lookingoutat

thesunsetandthegatheringnight,dreamingupallsortsofdetails,officers,mottos,anthems,hymns,etc.,fortheHighRollersClub.ThechaplainwastobecalledtheHolyRoller,etc.,etc.Alicetooknotesonitall,andwethoughtitwasprettyamusing.Hymn:“WhentheRollisCalledUpYonder.”Drinkingsong:“RollOuttheBarrel,”etc.

MassClimbofMt.ClementsWed.18July1990:GordonledtheGlacierMountaineeringSocietyonanamazingtriptothesummitofClements,alongthenew,longer,lowercliff-hanginggoattrailonthenorthsidethathefoundtheprevi-ousyear.Therewereforty-sixpeopleonthishike,andheandJaneman-agedtogetthemallthroughingoodshape.Inoteonmycalendarthatitwasa“perfectday.”Gordonistobeseventy-oneyearsoldthisAugust,andhecouldstillwearusallout!

toprotectourselvesfromthecoldblasts.Therearegoodviewsevery-whereonthismountain,andwehadapeekatGoatLakedownbelow,approachingthelipofthecliffaboveitcarefullysoasnottogetblownoverit.

WhenwegotdowntotheroadatSunriftGorge,GordontalkedwithacouplefromMassachusettswhohadtakentheSiyehPasshikefromSiyehBend,andhegraciouslyofferedtheamazedhusbandaridebacktore-trievehiscar.IquietlylethimknowwhoGordonwasaswebothgotoutofthecaratSiyehBend,andhe,havingbeenarangerelsewhere,wasmuchimpressed.AmilkshakeandcharburgersrevivedusatSt.Mary.

SparksonMt.SiyehFri.24July1998:AgroupfromtheGlacierMountaineeringSoci-etymadethehugeexpeditionfrom

WheneverIread[mynotesofthesedays],Ismileandthinkhowluckyweweretohave

knownthisgreatman.

AGaleonGoatMountainTues.26July1995:Ihadawonder-fulfirstclimbofGoatMountainwithGordon,Alice,andJaneinbrightbutexceptionallywindyweather.Wehadahappytimetalk-ingandjokingallday.Thewindwassointenseitnearlyblewusflatattimes.Wehadlunchbehindalittlefortofstonesnearthesummit

WynntoSiyeh–includingGordonandAlice.Gordonsoonwillbeseventy-nine!Theyranintoavarydiceyelectricalstorm,withlotsofsparksandcracklingandbuzzingonthesummitofSiyeh,butnoharmwasdonetothem.

Page 8: VoiceoftheGlacierParkFoundation Winter2005 ... · JohnMauff’sFall Wed.9July1978:Thiswasoneof ourmorememorableexpeditionsin Glacier.Gordon,Jane,JohnMauff, JoeSteffen,RandyKay(theMany

8�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail

ByRobertMegard(ManyGlacier1953-57)

ThunderbirdMountain,anisolatedrockspireinnorthwesternGlacierPark,attractedGordonEdwardsattentionasarareopportunityfora“firstascent”inGlacier.Hethoughtitmayhavebeenoverlooked,notclimbedpreviouslybecauseitislocatedinsucharemotepartoftheparkand,at8,800ft,notespe-ciallyhigh.Fromvantagepointsonneighboringpeaks,healsosawthatitmightbeachallengingclimb,withnoeasyroutestothetop;otherclimbersmayhavebeenrepelledbysteepcliffsthatsupportthesummitridgeonallsidesandthreatensevereexposureonpotentialclimbingroutes.

Theweatherwasawful,butweweresurprisedtofindthattheascentofThunderbirdwaseasy.Thelastpart,throughmistandfog,wasalong

agoattrailthatfollowedascree-coveredledgeallthewayacrossthemountain’seastface.Wefollowedituntilwefoundawide,steepgullythroughthecliffs,andweresurprisedagainwhenwescrambledtothetopofthegullyandfoundourselvesonthesummitridge.Wehadpersistedduringanexceedinglyunpleasantday,enticedbytheprospectofafirstascent.Ourenthusiasmfadedasweapproachedthesummit,wherewecouldseeacairnbuiltbypreviousclimbers.

Suddenly,wewereinbrightsun-light.Thewetrocks,crustedwithcolorfullichens,sparkledaroundus.Belowus,ThunderbirdGlacieralsowasbathedinsunlight,butfarthereast,towardMt.Cleveland,allpeakswerestillshroudedinblackclouds.Alightningflashandaninstanta-neousthunderclapmadeuscrouchlownearthesummitcairn.Northof

us,beyondBoulderPass,twoofthehighestmountainsinGlacierPark,KintlaandKinnerlypeaks,wereemergingfromthemist.Snowfieldsontheirsouthernflanksweresunlit,buttheirsummitswerestillshroud-ed.Kinnerlyresembledanerupt-ingvolcanoascloudappearedtobespewingfromitsconicalsummit.Allwassunlitstillfarthernorth,asthewaningstormmovedeastward.Wetriedourbesttocapturethespectaclearoundusonfilm.

GordonalsothoughtourascentofThunderbirdwasespeciallymemora-ble,butfordifferentreasons,whichherecountedinissue21oftheJournaloftheGlacierMountaineer-ingSocietypublishedin1990,withwordscopiedfromhisfieldnotesforAugust31andSeptember1,1956.Heledthemorningnaturalist’shiketoGrinnellGlacieronAugust31

AnAscentofThunderbirdMountainSuddenly,wewereinbrightsunlight.Thewetrocks,crustedwithcolorfullichens,sparkledaroundus.(BobMegardphoto)

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TheInsideTrail�Winter2005�9

andranallthewayfromtheglacierbacktohiscabinattheSwiftcurrentRangerStation.HepickedupTomLandis(afireguard)atSwiftcurrentandme(abellhop)atManyGlacierHotelandweheadednorthinhiscar,acrosstheInternationalBor-dertoWaterton,forourassaultonThunderbird.Thedistributorfailedandthecarstalled,butwefixeditandarrivedatWatertontoolatefortheafternoonboatweplannedtotaketoGoatHaunt,atthefarendofWatertonLake.WeplannedtospendthenightattheGoatHauntRangerStationandgetanearlystartthenextmorningforthehiketoBrownPassandtheclimbupThun-derbird.Instead,wetookinamovieandcampedatWaterton.Thenwetookthemorninglaunch,whichbattledfiercewindandwhitecapsfor10milesallthewaytotheheadofthelake.Wewerenowfarbehindschedulebutdeterminedtoattempttheclimb,sowe“hikedeightmilestoBrownPassandclimbedThun-derbirdinsnowsquallsandtremen-douswinds”,aswereconnoiteredtheroutehedescribedlaterinhisClimber’sGuide.

WearrivedbackatGoatHauntrangerstation,soakingwet,about8pm,longafterthelastboathadleftforthereturntripacrossthelakebacktoWaterton.Theranger’swifegaveushotchocolateandcrackers.Weweretoldthattherewasanewtelephoneconnection,sotheranger

calledWatertonandlocatedamanwhohadaboat.Slimwasfoundinabar,butagreedtoretrieveusforafeeof$5.00.AfterourreturntoWaterton,wedrankcoffeeandmilkshakesatthelittlecafé.About11:00pm,weleftWatertonforthebordercrossing,whichhadclosedforthenightabouttwohoursbeforewegotthere.Everythinglookeddarkonbothsidesoftheborder,butweparkedandwentaroundtotheAmericanside,wherewesawalightinarearroom.Theboarderguardwasinhispajamas,buthedressed,unlockedthegate,andletusacrosstheborder.WegothometoManyGlacierHotelandSwiftcurrentwithmorethanenoughtimetogettoworkinthemorning.

Weprobablydidn’tneedtoworryaboutlosingourjobsifwehadbeenlateforworkafterourmiserable

ascentofThunderbird.Itwastoolateintheseason;fewtouristswerecomingnow,studentemployeeswereleaving,andthehotelwasclosingdownfortheseason,althoughtherewasalwaystheominouspossibil-itythatwewouldnotbeinvitedbacknextyear.GordonandfamilyprobablyleftforCaliforniawithinafewdaystobeginanotheracademicyearatSanJose.Ialsoleft,tobegingraduateschoolattheUniversityofNewMexico,whichIhaddecidedonpartlybecauseAlbuquerquewasmuchclosertomountainsthanwereMinneapolis,MadisonorAnnArbor.

Gordon’sphotographsofmountainsreallychangedmylifeafterIfirstsawthemduringoneofhisnaturalist’slecturesthreeyearspreviously.Iwasaphotographerforthecollegenews-paperandnewsbureau.Ihadseenmanylandscapeportraitsofmoun-tainsoncalendarsandabovesofasinmid-westernliving-rooms.OthernaturalistsinGlacierParkshowedmostlypicturesofprettymountainsviewedfromvalleys,butneverhadIseensuchfantastictopographyuntilGordon’sphotography,insuchvividkodachromecolors,fromvantagepointssohighabovetherestoftheworld.

[Gordon]ledthemorningnaturalist’shiketoGrinnellGlacier...ranalltheway...backtohiscabinattheSwiftcurrentRangerStation.HepickedupTomLandisandmeatManyGlacier

Hotelandweheadednorthinhiscar...toWaterton,forourassaultonThunderbird.

Kinnerlyresembled

aneruptingvolcanoascloud

appearedtobespewing

fromitsconical

summit.(BobMegard

photo)

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10�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail

ByJohnHagen(ManyGlacier1970-80)

IgottoknowGordonEdwardsdur-ingmyfirsttwosummersworkingasacounterhandatManyGlacierHotel.GordonoftenstoppedintheSt.MoritzRoomforanhourortwotowriteinthemanynotebooksthathekeptonmountaineeringandonalpineinsects.Hewasadistinctive

outinManyGlacier’sLowerDorm.Employeesinseveralroomsalongthefrontofthebuildingwerebeingdevouredatnightbymicroscopicpests.Gordonidentifiedthemasbirdlicewhichhadcreptinthroughthewallsfromswallows’nestsupundertheeaves.HedustedourbedswithDDT,whichpromptlyendedtheattacks.

Likethousandsofothers,I’vealsohadthepleasureofvicariousclimb-ingwithGordon.TheClimber’sGuidehassummonedupimagesofGlacieradventureformeinmanyplacesfarfromthePark.Iespeciallyrememberdaysinlawschool,op-pressedwithlonghoursofstudyingcases,whenIwouldrefreshmyselfwithfiveminutesofdiversioninGordon’sbook.

IneverlosemysenseofaweatGor-don’ssectiononMt.St.Nicholas,GlacierPark’smostdangerouspeak.Atonepointhestates:“Aledgeleadseastward…andgivesaccesstoaneasiercliffwhichis,however,aboveasheerdropofpossibly2,000feetandiscomposedofextremelyrottenrockslabsinaverticalwall.Thehandholdsherearethinslabsofquartziteandredargillitenotmorethanacoupleofinchesthick.Theywillnotstandthestrainofahori-zontalpull.Hereisaplacetoholdthemountaintogetherasyouclimbit!Keepyourelbowsagainstthecliffandmakesurethepullexertedontheholdsisstraightdownward.”

LikewisearrestingisGordon’sac-countoftheroutesupMt.Wilbur,allofwhichinvolvehair-raisingper-ilsaboveyawningchasms.Gordonfamouslygavethenameof“Thin

AdventuresRealandVicariouswithGordonEdwards

figureamongthecrowdsoftourists,withhisbarrelchest,plainwhiteT-shirt,andpleasantsmile.

IwasstruckfromtheoutsetbyGordon’sgenerosity.HisfamousClimber’sGuidewasoutofprintatthetime,anditwouldbeseveralyearsbeforeaneweditionappeared.Gordontooktimeoutofhisbusyprofessorialscheduletoxeroxandmailmeacopyduringtheoff-sea-son.Iwasimpressedthathewouldtakethistroubleforanobscureyoungemployee.

OnonedayoffinJune,afriendandIweredrenchedbyhoursofcoldrainwhiletakingahiketoRedEagleLake.ReturningfamishedtoSt.MaryLodge,weperverselyorderedmilkshakes.Gordonhappenedintotherestaurantandnoticedusthereshiveringandsippingonthoseshakes.HepromptlypackedusintohiscaranddroveusbacktoManyGlacier,curtailinghisotherplansfortheday.

Onanotheroccasion,Gordoncametotherescueinhisscientificrole.Aninfestationofwhattheemployeesbelievedtobebedbugshadbroken

IvividlyrecallthedayofGordon’sfamousgrizzlybearencounter.HewaschargedbyasowintheMorn-ingEagleValley,andmanagedtofendthefirstattackoffwithhisiceaxe.Inthesubsequentscramble,however,hisforearmwasclenchedbetweenthebear’steeth.Gordonpattedthebear’sfaceandspokegen-tly,andtheanimallethimgo.Iwasondutyasabellmanthatafternoonwhenhewalkednonchalantlyintothehotelandshowedmehisswollenandbleedingarm.

Ihadtheprivilegeofseveralout-ingswithGordon,Alice,andJane,includingahikealongthespectacu-largoattrailsaboveHelenLakeonthePtarmiganWall.Weimprovised

IwasstruckfromtheoutsetbyGordon’sgenerosity.

iceaxesoutofsharpstonestocrossasteepsnowfieldonAhernPass.Onanotheroccasion,IhadthebenefitoffollowingorangeribbonsthatGordonhadtiedontheflanksofMt.AllentomarkasaferoutetoSnowMoonLake.

Man’sPleasure”tooneoftheseroutes.Ashedescribesit:“[Climbthesmall,openchimneyjustsouthoftheprominentridge…About80feetup,thischimneypinchestogeth-erandendsinapeculiarcavitybe-neathanoverhang.Intheceilingof

WeimprovisediceaxesoutofsharpstonestocrossasteepsnowfieldonAhernPass.

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TheInsideTrail�Winter2005�11

thiscaveisaholeabout2feetsquarethatgivesaccesstoaprotectedgullyaboveit.Theclimberswhofollowtheleaderhereshouldberoped,andwillcertainlybeexposedtoatrickleofgravelduringtheirordealinthecavity.”

TheClimber’sGuideisfullofcolor-fuldetails:thelightning-mangled

canthatheldthesummitregisteronGoing-to-the-SunMountain;thewhimperingporcupinesthatmakeitdifficulttosleepatGunsightLake;therockyblotchlikeabackwardsEthatmarkstherouteoverIcebergNotch;themysteriousswarmingofladybirdbeetlesontopofMountAllen.Especiallymemorableishisaccountof“theSpecteroftheBrock-

en”inthesectiononHeaven’sPeak.Thisrareapparition(namedafteramountaininGermany)occurswhenthewesteringsuncastsaclimber’sshadow,withasurroundingrainbowhalo,ontolowlyingclouds.

Gordon’sdepartureiswrenchingforfamilyandfriends,buthislegacycertainlywillcontinuetoenrichtheGlacierParkexperienceforcount-lesspeople.AndIhopetoseehimagain.TheprophetIsaiahdescribestheKingdomofHeavenwithim-agesofamountain.It’spleasanttoimagineclimbingwithGordononceagainoncelestialpeaks.

RememberingGordonEdwardscontinued

TheClimber’sGuidehassummonedupimagesofGlacieradventureformeinmany

placesfarfromthePark.

GordonascendingagullyonGoing-to-theSunMountain.Hewasalwaysathomewhenonamountain.(RolfLarsonphoto)

GordonandJanetraversingoneofthemanygoattrailshe‘sniffed’outoverhishalf-centuryofexplorationinGlacierPark.(RolfLarsonphoto)

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12�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail

ByEdwardSanmanIII(ManyGla-cier,Swiftcurrent,andGPIAuditor,1964-72)

IfirstmetGordonEdwardsinJune1954attheManyGlacierRangerStation.HewasaseasonalRangerNaturalistandmyfatherwasaseasonalRangerattheManyGlacierEntranceStation.Iwas7yearsoldandthiswasourfamily’s3rdsum-merinGlacierand1stsummeratManyGlacier.TheEdwardsfamilywerelivinginthe2ndcabintotherightoftheRangerStation,andwewerelivinginthe1stcabintotheleft.TheirdaughterJanewasonlyabout1or2yearsold.

Thecabinwelivedinhad3rooms(bedroom/livingroom,bathroom,andkitchen).Thekitchenhadawoodburningstovewithovenandasmallrefrigerator.Thestovepro-videdheatforthecabinandhadaspecialsetofwaterpipesthatcon-nectedthestovetoawatertanktoprovidehotwater.

WhenwearrivedinManyGlacierandfoundoutaboutthishousingassignment,wethoughtwewereinheaven.Theprevioustwosum-merswehadbeeninApgarintheoldNybergCabinCamp.Thosecabinsonlyhadoneroom,atapwithcoldrunningwater(nosink,throwtherinsewateroutthefrontdoor),woodstove,norefrigerator,andacommunalouthouse(withseparatemen’sandwomen’ssides),2washtubs(forbathingandwashingclothes),and2electriclightsononeswitch.OurcabinatManyGlacierevenhadatelephone(handcrank)connectedtotheManyGlacierHotelswitchboard.Thephonewas

rightovertheheadofmybed.Eachofthe3roomshadanelectriclightpoweredbythehotelgeneratorbe-lowSwiftcurrentFalls.

Giventheroomlayoutofthecabins,entertaininghadtobeafamilyaffair—therewasnoseparateroomthatthechildrencouldbesentto.WhentheEdwardsentertained,theyfoundthattheverysmallpantry(offofthekitchenandnexttothebackdoor)wasbigenoughforamakeshiftcradlefortheirdaughter.

IrememberthatGordonwasanavidhikerandmountainclimber.HikingwasafamilyaffairandtheEdwardshadanearlyversionofabackpackforcarryinganinfant.Ievenre-memberaPostcardforsaleintheHotelsshowingtheEdwardshikinginGlacier(IthinkitwasalongtheGardenWall)carryingtheirdaughterinthebackpack.

GordonwasbestrememberedforhismountainclimbinginGlacier.Each

From1955to1959,myfatherwasstationedatotherlocationsaroundGlacierandsoIlosttrackofGor-don.Imethimagainin1968whenIwasworkingatSwiftcurrentMotorInnastheNightAuditor.GordonwouldvisitGlacierforseveralweekseachsummer,usuallystayingintheManyGlacierCampground.HewouldcomeovertothelobbyofSwiftcurrentMotorInnintheeveningsanduseoneofthewritingtablesforseveralhours.IalsosawGordonoccasionallyin1971and1972atSwiftcurrentMotorInnwhenIwasworkingastheRoving(Raving)Auditor.

IntalkingtoGordon,Ilearnedthattherewasanextensivenetworkofanimaltrailsatthehighereleva-tionsthatcouldbeusedbypeople.GordonofferedtoshowmeapathbetweenManyGlacierHotelandthecirquewhichheldSnowMoonandFallingLeafLakes.Ihadstudiedthegovernmenttopographicalmapand

ChildhoodMemoriesofGordonEdwards

summerhewouldclimbvariousmountainsandpeaksinGlacier.Hekeptnotesaboutvariousroutestothetopsandwhichoneswereprefer-able.HisenthusiasmforclimbinginGlaciergothimintotroublewhenhepainteda“THISWAYUP”signonthesideofamountain.TheParkServicewasnotamusedandmadehimremovethesign.Afewyearslater,GordonpublishedhisGlacierParkClimber’sGuide.

lookedattheterrainandcouldnotseeanyeasywaytogettotheselakes.GordonindicatedthattherewasamountainsheeptrailalongaledgeonthesideofMtAllenleadingintothehighcirque.

Iregretthatweneverfoundthetimetotakethathike.IwillalwaysrememberGordonasapersonwhoenjoyedtalkingwithpeople,lovedGlacierNationalParkandwasalwaysenthusedabouthikinginGlacier.

HewouldcomeovertothelobbyofSwiftcurrentMotorInnintheeveningsanduse

oneofthewritingtablesforseveralhours.

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TheInsideTrail�Winter2005�13

ByJanaHjelmsethBaker(ManyGla-cier1980-81)andJacquieHjelmsethFennel(ManyGlacier1981)

DearDr.Edwards,

Youmaynotrememberus,butwearetwosistersfromMissoula,MontanawhomyougraciouslyinvitedtoclimbMt.ReynoldswithyouandyourlovelydaughterJaneinthesummerof1981.Weknowwe’vebeenremissinthoroughlyandproperlythankingyouforthehonorofmakingourfirstGlaciermountainascentsomemorable.Andyet,we’requitesurewereallyhadnoideathenhowfortunateandblessedweweretoaccompanyyouthatday.

JaquiehappenedtowaitonyouandJaneintheManyG.diningroomthenightbeforetheclimb.She

AThankYoutoGordonEdwardsrecallsyoubothbeingsokindandinteresting.Janewasespeciallyen-couragingofJacquieandhermusic.Beforeyouleft,youinvitedherandthetag-alonglittlesistertojoinyou.Whatluck–wehappenedtobeoffthenextday.Weacceptedwithoutathoughtthatwehadneverreallyclimbedamountainthattookmorethanjustwalkingtothesummit.

Somanyofthedetailsarefoggyforbothofusnowbuttheoveralldayisetchedinourmemories–glori-ous!We’resurethereweremomentsofinternalpanicatvariousdifficultspotsweencountered–chimneychutesthatwehadtoscrambleupanddownandextremelynarrowgoattrails,tonameafew.Butweprimarilyrememberthedaybeingdominatedbygreatconversation,

laughterandaneasethatwehaven’texperiencedsince.Dr.Edwards,youmadeourclimbfeellikeaniceeasywalktoRedRockFalls.Thatwasyourgifttousandtosomanyyouclimbedwithinyourlife.Youlovedyourcraftanddiditsoseem-inglywithoutmucheffortthatyouinspiredgenerationstodothesame.

Wecontinuetohaveapassionforhikingandclimbingwithourfamiliesandfriends.ItismarveloustomakeourwayoverthepasswhenwegettoGlacierandfeastoureyesonMt.Reynolds.Wedelightintherichexperienceyousogenerouslygavetous.Wedidn’tknowhowfor-tunatewewerethen,butwedonow.Thankyouforyourextraordinarylifeandhowittouchedusall.

JanaandJacquiejoinGordonandJaneon

thetraverseacrossthefaceofMountReynolds.

(PhotocourtesyofJanaHjelmsethBakerandJacquieHjelmseth

Fennell)

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14�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail

ByRolfLarson(MGH1975,1977-80,NPS1981-1985)

GordonEdwardwaslargerthanlife.GlacierNationalParkdefinedhimforbetterthan50yearsofhislife,andinturn,hedefineduswhosharedhispassionforGlacier’smountains.Inall,heinfluencedthreegenerationsofclimbers.AstrongcasecanbemadethathedefinedthesportofclimbinginGla-cier.Hedefinedhowweseemoun-tains,howwerelatetothelandscapeandhowwerelatetoeachotheraspeoplewhouseGlacier’sbackcoun-try,especiallyclimbers.

Heexhibitedextraordinarypowersofobservation,intensepowersofunderstandingandasubtleabilityto

ByDaveShoup(Swiftcurrent,ManyGlacier1973-76)

AsawaiterfortwosummersatSwiftcurrentMotorInnin1974and1975,IfondlyrememberGordondrinkingcoffeemostmorningswiththelocal“mountaineeringgang,”talkingaboutthenextclimborhikeorpastexperience.Gordonalwayshadtimetogiveemployeesadviceonourclimbingexpeditions.MymostnotablememorywashikingwithAliceandGordononthePtarmiganWallgoattrailfromthePtarmiganTunneltoAhernPass.Hetookparticularinterestinaclimbseveral

ofusmadeupMt.Merrittin1974,givingusanewcanisterforclimberregistrationtoleaveatthesummit.

Oneevening,GordonheldaGlacierslideshowintheSwiftcurrentCoffeeShop.Ivividlyrecallhimdetail-inghisencounterwithabearnearMorningEagleFalls—talkinggen-tlytocalmthebearasitbitdeeply

GordonatSwiftcurrent

IfondlyrememberGordondrinkingcoffeemostmorningswiththelocal“mountaineeringgang,”

talkingaboutthenextclimborhikeorpastexperience.

understandandcommunicatewiththecreaturesandnaturalelementsthatsurroundedhiminGlacier.“Lookforgoattrails,”hewouldtellus.

ImetGordonduringmyfirstsum-merworkinginGlacier.IwasjustanotheryoungpersoncaughtbythelureofGlacier’smagicalpeaks.Thoughsurroundedbythrongsoffriends,whenhesensedmypassionforclimbing,hewelcomedme,ashedidhundredsofothersduringhishalfcenturyinGlacier.

Itreasurethememoriesoftimesspentwithhimandhisfamily.Iwillalwaysremembertheexpand-ingmealsatSwiftcurrentMotorInn

whenallwerewelcometojointhegroupandshareinlivelyconversa-tions.Iwillrememberthethrillofwatchinghimontheslopes.Hehadatendencytoalwayslookupslope,savoringtheadventureandassessingpossibilitiesateachledgeorturn.Iwillalwaysmarvelatthewayheknewwhatwasgoingtohappennext,beitapendingstormorapotentialhazard.Itwasasifheknewsomethingtherestofuscouldonlyguessat.

TheoverridingperceptionthatGor-donbroughttothesportofclimb-inginGlacierNationalParkwashisloveofGlacierandhispassionforthesportofclimbing.Heenjoyedtheentiremountainenvironmentandattemptedtosharethatbroaderenthusiasmwithallofuswhoseekguidancefromhisclimbingguide.Heguidedbothourheartsaswellasourhandsandfeet,sharingwithusnotonlysecretsofGlacier’shigh

intohishand.Onhishikeout,hetookapictureofhisenormouslyswollenhand,whichhesharedwiththeaudiencethatevening.

Healwayshadtimetohearstoriesofour“adventures”.(Iknowminecer-tainlypaledincomparison).Weallowemany,manythankstoGordonforhisClimber’sGuide.

PayingTributetoGordonEdwards

AstrongcasecanbemadethathedefinedthesportofclimbinginGlacier.

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TheInsideTrail�Winter2005�15

placesbutawealthofmythandhis-torythathavebeenattachedtothisspecialplacebypeoplewhoseliveswerealsotouchedbythispassiontoexploreandexuberancetocelebrate.Nomatterhowsignificantorimpres-siveourpersonalaccomplishments,weasbackcountryusersinGlacierParkareonlyfollowinginGordon’s

footsteps.Withouthisintuition,in-telligenceandgraciousspirit,many,ifnotmostofuswouldneverhaveexperiencedthethrillandcamarade-rieofmanygreatdaysspentinthemountains,andmemoriesworthyofbeingpassedontoanyonewhowilllistentoourpersonaltales.

Iwouldpersonallyliketothankhim.Hemadeabetterpersonofme.Ithinktherearemanyofuswhosharethisfeeling.Wewereprivilegedtoknowthisman.

Wenowexperiencethepassingofthetorch.TheworldofclimbersinGlacierhasmovedfromthoseofuswhoknowthismantothosewhoknewhim.Itisatragedythatnobodyelsewillhavetheprivilegetoexperiencethisveryspecialmanaswedid.

Mayweallhavethestrengthandwisdomtopassonthelessonsthismansharedwithus.

Hedefinedhowweseemountains,howwerelatetothelandscapeandhowwerelatetoeachotheraspeoplewhouseGlacier’s

backcountry,especiallyclimbers.

GordonEdwardsdescribestherouteupIcebergNotch.Healwaysfoundtimetobothsharehisknowledgeandtolistentotheexperiencesofothers.(RolfLarsonphoto)

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16�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail

byKayDohertyRoam(GlacierParkLodge1958,ManyGlacierHotel1959)

IdidnotwanttoworkatGlacierNa-tionalParkthatsummerof1958,after

WesternStar.Thedealwasthatyouhadtoworkthroughthesummertobegiventhereturnhalf—ifyouleftearlyyoupaidforityourself.Irecallthatcompensationforworkingsixdaysper

Onaboutthethirdmorning,whiledoingmydutyinthedormbathroom,Ioverheardthehotelmanager’ssecre-tarytellafriendthattheyweregoingtohavetosendbacktoSt.PaulforanewPBXoperatorbecauseonethattheyhadhiredwasalreadyhomesickandheadedforthebarn—hangthecostofthetick-et.Icameboilingoutofthestallandhollered,“No,no,IamatrainedPBXoperatorandwouldlovetohavethejob!”Shelookedmeupanddownandtheninstructedmetoreportfordutyat7:00thenextmorning.Itwasabsolutelythebestjobinthepark.Youwererightinthemiddleofeverything,seatednexttotheroomclerkatthefrontdesk.Youwerethefirsttoknoweverybody’sbusi-

IdidnotwanttoworkatGlacierNationalParkthatsummerof1958,afterfinishingmy

sophomoreyearattheUniversityofMinnesota.

finishingmysophomoreyearattheUniversityofMinnesota.Itwouldmeangivingupmycushyroom-and-boardjobworkingontheswitchboardinthedorm,andthatwouldmeanmov-ingbackhome—perishthethought.Butstressedbytwojobsandaseven-teencredithourloadasachemistrymajor,ItwicethatspringendedupintheUniversityHospital.ThatdiditforMomandDad.OneofDad’sgoodfriendswasagolfbuddyofDonKnutson,whosecompanythenman-agedtheparkhotels.DadhauledmetoMr.Knutson’sofficeforaninterview—didn’ttrustmetogoonmyown—andIwalkedawaywithasignedcontracttobeahallcleaneratGlacierParkLodgeandone-halfofaroundtriptickettoEastGlacierontheGreatNorthern’s

IwalkedawaywithasignedcontracttobeahallcleaneratGlacierParkLodgeandone-half

ofaroundtriptickettoEastGlacierontheGreatNorthern’sWesternStar.

weekwas85centsanhour,plusroomandboardandtheticket.

UponarrivalIwastoldthatIhadbeenupgradedtoroomcleaner—noad-ditionalmoney,alas.Mytrainingtookjustlongenoughtocleanoneroom,

withemphasisonhospitalsheetcornersonthebeds.Istillrememberthatthedrinkingglassesinthebathroomwereencasedintidylittleglassinebags—afterhavingbeenrinsedoutinthesink.Somuchforsanitation.

ness.Thesplitshiftswere7-noonand6-11PMonedayandnoon-6PMthenext,whichwereidealforstudyingonthejobandexploringtheareawhenoff.

RunningthePBXinthe1950’sCarolynAnderson

Woodbury,KayDohertyRoamandLisaAmbrose

atManyGlacierfrontdesk,1959.(Kay

DohertyRoamphoto)

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TheInsideTrail�Winter2005�17

RunningthePBXcontinued

“No,no,IamatrainedPBXoperatorandwouldlovetohavethejob!”Shelooked

meupanddownandtheninstructedmetoreportfordutyat7:00thenextmorning.

WhenshewasbusyIwouldassisttheroomclerkandthemostfamouspersonIcheckedinwasTennesseeErnieFord,whomIrecallasalovelygentleman.Whenitwasn’tbusyIcouldwatchwhatwasgoingoninthelobbyandwasoc-casionallyknowntopickbarkofftheponderosalogpillarlocatednexttothePBXboard.

Lifeintheparkwasarevelation.Idiscoveredmountains,hiking,freshair,hitchhiking,theabilitytomakefriends.IgainedsomuchweightonthegoodfoodthatIhadtosendMomanSOSforsomelargerclothes.Ilearnedthattheultimatestatussymbolwastohaveagearjammerboyfriendandtoproveitbyironinghisredcowboyshirtinthedormfrontroom,preferablyintheeveningwhentherewerethemostto

notice.IknewIhadarrivedwhenIwashandedashirtthatneededattention.

Ilovedbeingabletorideonthebussesondaysoffwhentheyweren’tfull,andinshortorderhadvisitedalltheotherhotelsintheparkandPrinceofWalesatWaterton.TwoorthreeofuscouldridethebustoLoganPass,hikeoverSwift-currentPasstoMany,andthensafelyhitcharidebackhome.Ineverdidgetstrandedormisshavingmyownwheels.Ifellinlovewiththesmellofthepineswhentheyweredampandyearslaterboughtahousemostlybecausethepinesintheyardhadbeenrainedonthenightbefore.Ihadnevernoticedwildflowers,andtheircolorandvarietyandprofu-sionwereoverwhelming.

Thatsummerwasoverinflash,butbeforecollectingmytrainticketIsignedacontracttoworktheboardthenextsummeratManyGlacier.Oh,my—evenbetter,deepintheheartofthepark.OneofmybestManymemorieswasthosetalentedfolkswhopresentedthemusicalshowsintheevening.WhocouldeverforgetDeAnnaDoughertybeltingout“I’mjustagirlwhocan’tsayno”in“Oklahoma!”Orthethreebell-menwho,intheirlederhosen,intro-ducedustothetunesoftheKingstonTrio.Ormyroommate,MargieLadd,abagpiperfromtheUniversityofIowawhoseplaintivetonescouldmakeamagpiecry.Me,too,becauseitusuallytookthetwoofusthebetterpartofanhourtogetherintoherregalia,withtimeouttocrawlaroundonthefloorforthemissingcontactlensortwo.

CarolynAndersonwastheroomclerkIworkedwithandIlookedonwithapprovalasBillWoodbury,boatmanforMr.Burch,courtedher.Istillamincontactwiththemand,infact,itwastheythatintroducedmetotheGlacierParkFoundation.BecausetheUofMbeganclasseslaterintheyearthanmostschools,Iwasabletostayontohelpclosedownthehotels.OnedayIreceivedacallthattherewasafiresomewherenearthehotelwithheavysmoke.DoingsomeresearchIfoundthatMr.Burchhadorderedanewboatforthenextyearandhaddecidedthatthebestwaytogetridoftheoldonewassimplytoburnitoutonthelake.Sosubsequentcallerscouldsimplybetoldthattheboatwasbeingdeliberatelyburned.Istillthinktherearesomewhodisbelievedme.

Myred-cowboy-shirtedjammeroftheprevioussummer,RhodesPerry(anyonehaveanyideawhatbecameofhim?—hewasamedicalstudentatBaylorUni-versityinTexaswhileatGlacier)camebackforavisitandgatheredagroupoffriendsforamoresoberandsedatere-RedbusatChiefMountainCustoms;JanFranke,KayDoherty

Roam,JohnDuchow,JeanneStokes.(KayDohertyRoamphoto)

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18�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail

unionattheSwiftcurrentcampground.HeandIwereatonepointleaningagainsthiscarwhilewaitingforthecoffeepotonthecampfiretoboil,whensuddenlythecarbegantoshake.Think-ingmaybeabearwaspushingonit,wepulledoutourflashlightsandexploredtheareatonoavail.Whenwereturnedtothedorm,welearnedoftheHebgenearthquakedowninYellowstone.

Ihadafunnyexperienceduringthelate1960’s.IendedupmarryingmyhighschoolboyfriendandonesummerwhilewewerelivinginOregonweheadedtoMinneapolistovisitthefolks.WedecidedtoreallysplurgewithanightatMany,ratherthanstayinginthecamp-ground.Afterdinnerwegotthethreelittleboystosleepandthendecidedto

RunningthePBXcontinued

slipdowntothebarjustoffthelobbyforanightcap.ItwasdarkandcrowdedandasIplowedmywaythroughthethronglookingforacoupleofemptychairsahandreachedoutandgrabbedmyslacks.ReadytoswatwhomeverwasbeingsofreshIlookeddownandtomyutteramazementsawmyoldbagpiperroommateMargiesittingtheregrinning.OfcoursewejoinedherandherdentisthusbandandthenexchangedChristmascardsforyears.

Inthesummerof2003,Isignedupforaten-daytourofLewisandClarksites

“Oh,they’reevenbiggerthanIremembered.”

tripmateswerewellawarethatthiswasamuch-anticipatedhomecomingforme.WhenthebusturnedwestatBabbandthebelovedmountainsbegantocomeintoview,Ibreathed“Oh,they’reevenbiggerthanIremembered.”Whatawonderfulmoment!Compoundedbythefactthatthetourdirectorhadaskedthehoteltogivemethebestroomintheplaceratherthantheoldcoalbinusuallyassignedtosingletravelers.AbigcornerroomwithwonderfulviewsoverSwiftcurrentLake.Ihaddiedandgonetoheaven.ButImanagedtowake

inMontana.ThedecidingfactorwastherideoverLoganPassinoneofthenewjammerbussesandanightatManyGlacier.Bythetimewegottheremy

upearlyenoughthenextmorningtoheadoutwiththetrustycamerainhandandtakeacoupleofrollsofthesunrise.

Thechorusof“Oklahoma!”in1959,DeeDaughertyinstripes.(KayDohertyRoamphoto)

MargieLaddin1959.(KayDohertyRoamphoto)

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TheInsideTrail�Winter2005�19

ByJohnB.Turner

Iwouldliketosharewithyourreadersmyfamily’smemorableexperiencesatGlacier,whichspanmorethan60years.

Myparents,JohnF.Turner,ofTexas,andMaryT.TurnerofMinnesota,metatGlacierwhileworkingsummerjobsinthepark.DadwasaGearjammerfrom1936to1939,andhewasthefirstdriverofbus#99whenthenewfleetwasfirstintroducedinthesummerof1937.HelaterbecametheDispatchAgentatEastGlacier,duringthesum-mersof1940and1941.AsDadfondlyremembers,henoticedthename“MaryTreacy”ofMinnesotaontheincomingtrainmanifest,andbecamedeterminedtomeether.Asfatewouldhaveit,Momgotajobacrossthelobbyasacashier,andsotheirfriendshipbegan.HeeventuallyproposedtoherattheEastGlaciertrainstation,andtheyweremarriedin1942.TheymovedtoCali-fornia,wheretheyraisedfivechildren:Byron,Ann,Judy,SaraandDavid.TheyhavereturnedtotheParkafewtimesovertheyears,includingthememorablesummerof1989whenourfamilyheldareunionatWaterton.Duringthe’89reunion,welookedeverywhereforDad’sbelovedbus#99,butalaswithnoluck,andwefinallysettledontakingourfamilyphotoinfrontofadifferentredbus.

Formanymonths,allfivesiblingsandthegrandkidshadbeenplanninganotherreunionatourbrotherDavid’shouseinnearbyWhitefish,MT.Mom’shealthhadbeenfailingforseveralyears,andDadhadbeenhouseboundformuchofthattimecaringforher,soitwasnotanoptionforthemtoattend

the2004gathering.Asthereunionapproached,Mom’shealthdeterio-rated,andsadly,shepassedawayinJune,bringingusalltogetheramonthearlyforamoresomberreunion.Afterthefuneral,wealldecidedtofollowthroughwiththeplannedJulyreunionandtriedtoencourageDadtojoinus,sincehisburdenofcaregivinghadcometoanend.Butduetohis89yearsandafewnaggingailments,hetoldushedidnotthinkitwaswisetomakethetrip.

InJuly,weallcongregatedinWhite-fishasplanned,onlytounexpectedlydiscoverthatonhisowninitiative,Dadhadgoneon-line,bookedhisownticketandflowntothereunion,muchtothesurpriseanddelightofusall.Toaccom-modatethishappydevelopment,wedecidedtochangethewholefocusofthesiblingreunion:westartedtoplanatriptoGlacierinhopesoffindingDad’soldbus#99.Wewantedtorecreateourfamilyphotofrom15yearsago,onlythistimeinfrontoftherightredbus.

WeleftWhitefishandbeganoursearchfor#99attheWestGlacierLodge,whereweencounteredseveraloftheoldbuses.Dadreminiscedwithsomeofthecurrent“Jammers”whileourcamerasclicked.WethensetoutoverLoganPassasDadtoldtalesalongtheway,stoppingforlunchandmorestoriesatSt.Mary’sJunction,butnosight-ingof#99.Afterlunch,wewenttoManyGlacierandmet“Jammer”DavidEglsaer(alsofromTexas)andJoeandGeriKendall,whohaveworkedattheparksince1949.WewereallspellboundasthefourofthemexchangedstoriesoftheiryearsworkingatGlacier.Duringtheconversationtheysuggestedthatold#99

After67years...

FindingOldNo.99mightbeatEastGlacier,sodowntheroadwealleagerlywent.

ArrivingatEastGlacier,wesoondiscoveredthe75thanniversarydisplayinthelobby,andwerethrilledtofindDadinthegroupphotooftheoriginal1937Gearjammers!Allofthe

otherpicturesandmemorabiliaondis-playbroughtoutmanymorestoriesandmemoriesfromDad.Bythen,wewereallstunnedatthesequenceofeventsthatwasmakingthissuchamagicaldayforthefamily.Buttherewasstillnosignofold#99.

Aswewereabouttowrapuptheday,onefinalsurprisefoundusinfrontoftheLodge:oneofDad’sgranddaughtersmetanotherdrivernamedBrockHaley(fromAtlanta).Asitturnsout,Brockisthecurrentdriverofbus#99,andsoourmagicaldayimprobablycontinuedasDadandBrockexchangedmorewon-derfulstories.BrockgraciouslylistenedtoDad,andhisloveandprideforthePark,andhiswillingnesstoshareitwithhispassengers,wereevidentinallhiswords.Brocktoldushecouldarrangeforashuttlebustotakeusalldowntothelotwhere#99wasparkedfortherestoftheday.BrockopeneditupandletDadsitinthedriversseatasweallposedforphotos...Brocktookturnsshootingwithaboutadozendifferentcamerassothatwecouldallgohomewithourownmemories.

Itwasatrulymemorableday,andwecannotthanktheParkanditsemploy-eesenoughforgoingoutoftheirwaytomakeitsospecialforDadandhisfamily.HehasravedabouthisdaysatGlacierforsomanyyears,anditwassoheartwarmingtoencounteryourpresentdayemployeeswhostilltakesuchprideintheirworkandinsharingtheParkwithitsmanyvisitors.WelookforwardtovisitingtheParkagaininyearstocome.Pleasepassoursincerethanksalongtoeveryonewhomadeour2004reunionsomemorable.

(PhotocourtesyofJohnB.Turner)

Page 20: VoiceoftheGlacierParkFoundation Winter2005 ... · JohnMauff’sFall Wed.9July1978:Thiswasoneof ourmorememorableexpeditionsin Glacier.Gordon,Jane,JohnMauff, JoeSteffen,RandyKay(theMany

20�Winter2005�TheInsideTrail

AllfriendsofGlacierParkareinvitedtojointheGlacierParkFoundation.MembershipincludesasubscriptiontoTheInsideTrailandtherighttovotefordirectors.PleasedownloadamembershipformfromourWebSite(www.glacierparkfoundation.org)orsendyourname,address,phonenumber,andparkexperiencetoGlacierParkFoundation,Box15641,Minneapolis,MN55415.

AnannualmembershipintheFoundationcosts$10.A“FriendofthePark”membershipcosts$25annually,cumulatingtoaLifetimemembershipinfiveinstallments.ALifetimemembershippaidinoneinstallmentcosts$100.

TheGlacierParkFoundationisa§501(c)(3)nonprofitcorporation.Contributionsaretaxdeductibletotheextentpermittedbylaw.

JOINTHEGLACIERPARKFOUNDATION

(PanoramabyChristineBaker)

GordonEdwardswasbyprofessionascientist.Bystylehewasanaturalistandteacher.Inthispicture,hetakesamomenttorestandenjoyahard-earnedperchatopthePtarmiganWall.(RolfLarsonphoto)