The BellBrook, bistro oz by Laris2/F, Carfield Building, 77 Wyndham Street, Central
2530 1600
Outback Oz: The BellBrook is an Australian-
themed bistro that has replaced former fine-dining
restaurant LARIS Contemporary Dining. The menu
features home-made rustic bites that highlight
Australia’s indigenous ingredients and casual-yet-
upscale bistro dining scene.
The scenery: The revamped concept is a complete
360-degree overhaul from LARIS’ stylish, swanky
design. In its place is an open, raw, fuss-free space
with wooden panels, a lengthy enclosed terrace
with high tables and bar chairs and chalk-scribbled
blackboard beams adorning the walls.
Bush-tucker fare: Yes, there are ’roos on the
menu; there’s grilled and smoked kangaroo loin
($288) served with parsnip purée, roasted kipflers
and sweet onion sauce with plump chocolate-
coated raisins. Albeit a touch too oversmoked for
our liking, the loin was still delightfully gamey,
tender and moist. Sweet and pudgy Kinkowooka
mussels seasoned with chilli and coriander and
served with tanami fire (a hot spice made from
ground native Australian plants) fries offered a
healthy kick of warm, earthy and zesty spice. We
relished the elevated tart and citrusy flavours of
the caviar-esque finger limes (also known as citrus
caviar) that garnished the barramundi cooked in
paperbark ($298), though we wished the fish was
cooked less.
Thrilling experience: The stars of this outback
are definitely the tapas-style starters and desserts.
Thinly sliced potato chips curled around a stake and
draped in melted grated Parmesan with a side of
truffle mayonnaise were salty, truffly, cheesy and
scarily addictive. We unfortunately did not find
out what exactly makes the Aussie steak tartare
($158) “Australian”, but we definitely enjoyed and
appreciated the addition of bone marrow, which
gave a richer finish to the raw meat. For desserts
(all priced at $78), sticky date pudding with slightly
salted brandy caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream
screamed ”pud” in every sense of the word – it
was comfortingly warm and indulgent – whilst the
pavlova with passion fruit and berries catered to
those who enjoy their pavs sweet, gooey
and marshmallow-y.
The verdict: While prices may look steep at
first, bear in mind that this concept is all about
sharing, and the menu is designed as such. Think
about sharing between four to six or an extremely
gluttonous two. We definitely foresee this as the
next Aussie expat hang-out; it’s a revamped Dining
Concepts undertaking that will undoubtedly thrive
in Hong Kong’s dining scene this time around. 14
of soba are made each day – with one highly
trained chef assigned to the task – and it takes
45 minutes to make just 25 portions. Not only
is the cold soba precisely cut and al dente with
that almost indescribable moreish bite, but the
soy-sauce-based dipping sauce made with bonito
and saba packs a powerful punch (if you have a
Japanese dining companion who squeals “oishii!”
with delight after her first slurp, you know you’re
in for a real treat). Everything else sampled was
equally as delicious, with special praise going to
the light and 100-per-cent-grease-free sea urchin
and snow crab tempura (fried in white sesame oil);
the hot crab roe dip with a gorgeous assortment
of seasonal veggies (the Shanghainese version of
fondue or bagna càuda) and the excellent charcoal-
grilled items – particularly the succulent Miyazaki
A5 Wagyu sirloin and minced chicken skewers
(tsukune). Make sure to order an onsen egg on the
side for dunking to your heart’s content. Since it
was a lunch tasting, we steered clear of Gonpachi’s
tempting sake selection and other alcohol-fuelled
tipples, so if you’re on the wagon like we were, we
can recommend the sweet, sour ‘n’ spicy ume-syoga
(plum-ginger) cooler.
Doing Tokyo proud: Gonpachi here in Hong Kong
has done well to match the super-high standards
and critical acclaim of the Roppongi original. The
prices are on the higher end of the spectrum (the
lunch sets average around $268, for instance),
but the quality of the ingredients and authentic
execution make the bill oh-so-worth-it.
16
tried & tasted
Gonpachi4/F, Lee Gardens One, 33 Hysan Ave, Causeway Bay
2787 3688
Aka the Kill Bill restaurant: Gonpachi restaurant
in Tokyo is infamous for being the inspiration for the
sword showdown scene in Kill Bill where yellow-
tracksuit-clad Uma Thurman takes down Lucy
Liu and a bunch of masked suits bearing samurai
swords. It’s recently been reinvented in Hong Kong
in a setting that’s meant to invoke the traditional
Edo period of Japan. The long, dimly lit (mysterious)
entrance corridor leads to an elegant and spacious
curved dining room and outdoor terrace featuring
a semi-open tatami area, bamboo screens, lanterns
and rustic wooden furniture, all accented in
imperial red. There’s even a room dedicated to soba
making (check out the Japanese-imported stone
mill in the corner, grinding away kilo after kilo of
buckwheat seeds).
The menus: If you order nothing else on
Gonpachi’s extensive menus (lunch, main, sushi/
sashimi, afternoon tea, drinks), make it a double
of the restaurant’s signature seiro soba, divine to
the nth degree. We’re told that about 200 portions
mousse, banana custard, popping candy and Baileys
liquid nitrogen “popcorn”, which had us from the
first glimpse of the Baileys fog.
The star atop your tree: There’s a lot to look
forward to this upcoming Christmas season at Gold,
with its festive weekday lunch and brunch menus.
The tour de force, however, will be the restaurant’s
multi-course Christmas Eve ($980) and New Year’s
Eve ($1,380) dinner menus.
Foodie’s tipsy note: Make your own
version at home by placing 100g
demerara sugar, 3 cloves, 1 stick of
cinnamon, 2 bay leaves and 1 star
anise in a pot along with a bottle of
red wine and a dash of grated nutmeg.
Add the peel of half an orange and half
a lemon. Heat gently and simmer for
15 minutes before adding a splash of
brandy or sloe gin and serving a mugful
to your favourite Santa.
Types of glögg: Versions can vary, with white
wine or spirits like brandy and whisky used
as the base instead of red wine. While it may
almost seem unimaginable to do so, there are
versions of non-alcoholic glögg or mulled wine
where fruit and berry juices (like blackcurrant)
replace the wine, or where the mixture is
brought to a rolling boil to remove most of
the alcohol content.
The pour: Glögg is always served warm. In
Nordic countries, it is often accompanied by
a sweet nibble, either gingerbread, biscuits,
sweet buns flavoured with saffron and raisin or
even rice pudding. In other parts of the world,
it doesn’t hurt serving a portion of mulled wine
with some mince pies or Chrissy pud.
Flavour notes: Infused with spices and citrus
peel, the flavours can be earthy, sugary and
zesty, with slightly bitter citrusy notes.
Where to find it: Glögg can be readily found
and drunk this month in its European form
here in Hong Kong. As per Mandarin Oriental’s
annual tradition, the hotel will be handing
out free glugs of mulled wine (and roasted
chestnuts) from 17–24 December; Peak Cafe
Bar will offer a traditional version of mulled
wine with a splash of brandy for $58; 208
Duecento Otto will serve it on two days only
(17 and 24 December) for $70 (the first serving
is complimentary), whilst The Salted Pig will be
offering their own version for $78.
18
Glögg Pronounced “glurgg”, from the Swedish etymology
meaning “to burn or mull”
What is it? Plain and simple, glögg is
the Nordic term for mulled wine, enjoyed
typically during the cooler months. Traditional
versions of glögg consist of red wine, sugar
and a handful of spices, including cinnamon,
cardamom, ginger, clove and bitter orange
fruits, plus a generous dabble of a strong
spirit – usually vodka or brandy. The mixture
is infused for at least an hour at 60–70°C. In
Europe, mulled wine was a favourite during
the Victorian times, when it was normally
made without the addition of spirits, but could
include raisins or apples in the mix, with port
or claret often used as the base. It is believed
that Charles Dickens is the man to credit for
making this tipple a traditional holiday drink,
as mulled wine is referred to in several of his
novels – most notably in A Christmas Carol.
Our tried and tasted tipples: this month, we feature one of our Christmas faves, glögg
&triedtipsy
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Pantone Blue 072C
Pantone 032C
100C/100M
100Y100M
w
24
food war
Unappealingly sour For those (like us) who prefer things extremely bitter
foodOrange Marmalade
WAR
Hero – $33.90/340g
great Food Hall, Basement, Two Pacific Place,
88 Queensway, Admiralty 2918 9986
A Swiss brand, Hero’s lovely, wobbly marmalade
was the most jelly-like in consistency; but looks
more like honey than a chunky fruit spread. This
marmalade provided the strongest (and most
pleasing) scent – pungent peel – and it was also
the sharpest tasting of the lot. Personally, we’re
fans of bitter tastes, and we couldn’t get enough of
this marmalade’s tangy flavour with its lingering
piquant aftertaste. When it comes to spreads for
toast, it doesn’t get much better than (our) Hero.
FOODIE RATING
Bonne Maman – $24.90/225g
great Food Hall, Basement, Two Pacific Place,
88 Queensway, Admiralty 2918 9986
This well-known French maker of fruit spreads
(whose mini jars with their iconic gingham-
patterned lids have been nicked from many an
aeroplane and room service meal tray) was a
surprising taste-test disappointment. Its texture
was thin and watery, with few orange-y bits,
and the taste was overwhelmingly sour from the
addition of lemon juice. In fact, it was difficult to
detect much orange flavour whatsoever. We’ll
pass on this mama.
FOODIE RATING
Typically not as sweet as other fruit spreads, orange marmalade should pack a bitter punch from the addition of rind to a jam-like base. Straddling the sweet/sour
divide, a dollop or two of this intensely flavoured zero-fat spread would make a great accompaniment to your breakfast or teatime spread this Christmas. We’ve helped to
narrow down your purchasing decision with this mega marmalade showdown
One of your first culinary roles was as the
captain’s pastry chef for the French Navy.
What were the biggest challenges baking at
sea? After I finished my apprenticeship, I had to do
one year of national service. Because I had done
very well in my pastry chef exams, I got offered the
position on the flagship of the French Navy, which
was an amazing position for my age – I was only
20. We travelled around the world for five months,
entertaining diplomats, presidents, ambassadors and
VIPs every time we arrived in a different country.
Even as glamorous as the captain’s apartments
were, the bottom line is that it was still a Navy
ship, and there was no air conditioning. There were
high expectations; we were representing legendary
French cuisine. One time we arrived in the Caribbean
at Christmas, and
we were asked to do
chocolate sculptures
for the dessert table.
The temperature
inside my kitchen
was around 45°C. So
I went to the main
kitchen and locked
myself in the freezer,
and I made all the
chocolate sculptures
there and then!
Which other patissiers do you admire? There are
pastry chefs who I grew up looking up to, like Gaston
Lenôtre. He had a patisserie empire around the world
and was one of the godfathers of modern patisserie.
Another who is more contemporary, and has moved
patisserie to another level, is Pierre Hermé. There’s a
new guy in Paris who’s very creative with flavours –
Philippe Conticini. His shop (La Pâtisserie des Rêves)
is completely different from what you would expect
from a traditional French patisserie.
If you could eat only one cake or pastry every
day for a year, which one would you choose?
chewin' the fat
Chewin’ the Fat with...
French patissier Eric Lanlard has taken pastry and cake making to the next level in his adopted home of the UK, where he relocated in 1989 to work
for chefs Albert and Michel Roux. In addition to opening his own cake boutique – Cake Boy – in London in 2005, Eric has twice been the recipient of the Continental Patissier of the Year title at the British Baking Awards, written numerous best-selling cookbooks and baked up a storm on our screens with the series Glamour Puds and Baking Mad with Eric Lanlard
What were some of your favourite pastries
and cakes to eat while growing up in France?
In France, going to the patisserie is part of life. On
a Sunday, every family would make a trip to the
patisserie to buy cakes for their lunch or dinner.
When it was time to choose the cakes, I always
went for the eclairs or anything with choux pastry.
When I first starting baking on my own – I was six
at the time – eclairs were the first thing I tried to
make, and it was a disaster…
26
Eric Lanlard
Foodie’s round-up of this year’s most sumptuous, decadent and squeal-worthy dishes from the
latest dining hotspots
d i s h e sY e A Ro f the
28
dishes of the year
36
future dining
CandiCe Suen, Bite Limited
The director of Bite Limited,
Candice Suen is the woman
behind concepts such as frozen
yoghurt chain Yo Mama,
hamburger franchise Triple O’s
and hot dog outlet The Frank.
Food trends that have made an impact on
you: Bite Limited has always been proud of
providing good comfort foods with the freshest
ingredients. We discovered the Panino Giusto
concept in Italy, and this is the kind of concept
we like to bring to Hong Kong. At Panino Giusto,
we offer an affordable luxury, where diners can
savour the best Italian ingredients in a casual
environment. I think Hong Kong customers
appreciate food with high quality that can fit
into their busy lives. We notice what is going on
around the world and work out if it is feasible to
bring it here.
2014 food trend prediction: I think high-end
healthy foods will continue to grow and become
more mainstream in Hong Kong and around the
world. Today, we have become more aware of
what we consume.
A food trend you would like to start in Hong
Kong: Bite Limited has always been thinking of
bringing food carts to Hong Kong! It is a big trend
in the US, and it makes so much sense in Hong
Kong with the high rents nowadays. However, it is
not feasible, as we are told that it is not possible
to get new mobile food licensing.
maLCoLm Wood, maximaL ConCeptS
A big believer that food
should highlight the best
ingredients, Malcolm
says that a restaurant
menu should also
feature “something that you
can eat week in, week out
and are hungry for again
when you wake up the next
morning”.
Food trends that have made an impact on
you: We have seen a rise in new independent
concepts that have really focused their menus on
small niches; restaurants that focus on doing a
small menu but executing it at a very high level.
For me, this is what a real restaurant experience
is all about. Lots of new “hipster joints” have
opened up too, with some home-grown concepts
and others imported from cities like NYC. Hong
Kong is a very competitive market, and diners
are very educated here, so it’s important to keep
creative at all times. It means you can’t be lazy
and get away with things that have not been
properly thought through. The city has turned a
corner, and there is a lot of talent in the market.
If you want to get noticed these days, you really
have to make an effort, not just in your food, but
also your concept, service and philosophy, to truly
stand out.
2014 food trend prediction: I think we are just
about to see some very interesting things happen
to Chinese food. There are a few new concepts
that I have heard will be opening in the new year,
and people are realising that it’s not just Western
concepts that can really focus on ingredients.
There is a lot of room for home-cooked Chinese
food to shine through. I hope that what we have
seen happen with South East Asian cuisine takes
place with specific regional Chinese food.
A food trend you would like to start in
Hong Kong: As a company, we have one key
philosophy: simple, down-to-earth food that is
ingredient focused. I think both the restaurant
and the customer should care about where the
meat comes from, whether the fish is from a
sustainable source and what sorts of vegetables
are in season. If this could become a trend
in Hong Kong, we would be up for some very
interesting meals!
On upcoming launches: I am working with
Jason Atherton to open a jamón and sherry bar
on Ship Street called HAM AND SHERRY, and
I have another restaurant/lifestyle concept at
the upcoming PMQ (Police Married Quarters
in Central) opening in April 2014. I’m also developing a concept with an ex-Barrafina chef.
42
Lardo-Braised BrusseLs sprouts witH MaLt Vinegar
Chef Lauria’s tip: if lardo is not available, you may
substitute with bacon.
For 6 people
Prep time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Ingredients:
+ 600g Brussels sprouts
+ 30g olive oil
+ 100g lardo, cubed
+ 80g rendered lardo fat
+ 12g garlic, minced finely
+ 3g fresh oregano, chopped
+ 20g brown sugar
+ 120g malt vinegar
+ sea salt, to taste
Method:
1 Par-cook the Brussels sprouts in salted
boiling water. When they are tender but still
crunchy, plunge them into ice water. Strain
and slice in half lengthwise.
2 Drizzle the olive oil in a large sauté pan and
place all the halved Brussels sprouts, cut
side down, in the pan. Place the cubed lardo
green tea seMifreddo, raspBerry sorBet, green tea CHiffon Cake and yogHurt
Pastry Chef Tracey’s tip: make a simple syrup by
heating equal quantities of water and sugar, stirring
until the sugar has dissolved. This can be kept for up
to one month.
For 8 people
Prep time: 1 hour, plus 4 hours freezing/
refrigeration time
Cooking time: 1 hour
Ingredients:
Green tea semifreddo:
+ 130g milk
+ 130g double cream
recipes
and rendered lardo fat on top of the sprouts.
3 Caramelise the sprouts on high heat until they
are browned and charred.
4 Take the pan off the heat and add the minced
garlic and oregano. Toss together so that
everything is thoroughly mixed.
5 Place the pan back on the heat and add the
brown sugar and malt vinegar. Allow the
vinegar to reduce for 1 minute. Season with
salt to taste.
Lardo-braised Brussels sprouts with malt vinegar
The Entertainer
– providing
close to 1,000
“buy-one-
get-one-free”
vouchers from
Hong Kong’s
most exclusive
dining, leisure,
wellness and
entertainment
venues (think
Gold by Harlan Goldstein, Alfie’s by
KEE, French Window and The Landmark
Mandarin Oriental spa), this successful
Dubai-based app and voucher book
was recently launched in Hong Kong.
The Entertainer also includes hotel
accommodation offers from Banyan Tree,
Angsana and Sofitel across luxe holiday
destinations from the Maldives through
to Bali. It is priced at $595 and available
on iTunes, Blackberry and Google Play.
Champagne house Krug has released their third edition of The Hunter & The Hunted series, this time pairing effervescence
with a hardy, versatile crustacean: the crab. This third edition features interviews with renowned executive chefs such as Uwe Opocensky and Umberto Bombana, with recipes highlighting this delish decapod. We’ve perused all three editions (including those on truffle and tomato), and we can say this is definitely an undrinkable but very enjoyable collectible champagne item. It is available in all the featured restaurants in the book as a complimentary gift to diners until the end of the year. They are 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana, Amber, Dragon Seal, Island Tang, Libery Private Works, Mandarin Grill + Bar and Wagyu Takumi.
A wine house with over 400 labels of wine and champagne, including more than 60 that are exclusively supplied to this shop in Hong Kong, Winebeast opened its doors in late October, offering a personalised kind of wine service. Their experienced sommeliers are on hand to guide consumers in selecting the perfect drops of wine for individual taste buds and occasions. Also available in their wine repertoire are eco-friendly and biodynamic wines featuring labels such as Domaine Oliver Guyot and Domaine Vacheron. Look out for a host of wine-tasting events paired with individual themes, as well as their online store, set to launch soon.49 Johnston Road, Wanchai 2804 1318
The culinary and cultural destination that is Duddell’s has scored what we consider the art exhibition of the year: Chinese contemporary artist and human rights activist Ai Weiwei’s
first curated exhibition in Hong Kong. Framed: Ai Weiwei and Hong Kong Artists, on display until 15 February 2014, is a dynamic collaboration with 13 local artists, including Kitty Chou, anothermountainman, Kingsley Ng and MAP Office. Before or after immersing yourself in Ai Weiwei’s inspiring “visual dialogue”, be sure to book a table at Duddell’s for its Michelin-starred chef's Cantonese cuisine and vintage cocktails. Level 3 and 4, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell Street, Central 2525 9191
48
On the huntA BOutique WineBeAst
Ai Weiwei at Duddell’s
App of the monthOur fave foodie app this month!
the inspired foodie
the cultured foodie Our round-up of the best wine, arts and entertainment happenings this month
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