THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Marc Di Duca, Kerry Christiani, Catherine Le Nevez, Donna Wheeler
Austria
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Welcome to Austria . . . . . 4Austria Map . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Austria’s Top 23 . . . . . . . . 8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 20First Time Austria . . . . . . 22If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Month by Month . . . . . . . 26Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 29Skiing & Snowboarding . . . . . . . . . 33Hiking in Austria . . . . . . . 39Cycling & Adventure Sports . . . . . . 46Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 52Regions at a Glance . . . . 56
VIENNA . . . . . . . . . . . 60
LOWER AUSTRIA & BURGENLAND . . . . .121Lower Austria . . . . . . . . 124The Danube Valley . . . . . . 124Waldviertel & Weinviertel . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Wienerwald . . . . . . . . . . . . 137March-Donauland . . . . . . . 139St Pölten . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140Süd-Alpin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Burgenland . . . . . . . . . . 147Eisenstadt . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Güssing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Lockenhaus . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Neusiedler See . . . . . . . . . 152Wiesen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
UPPER AUSTRIA . . . 158Linz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159Around Linz . . . . . . . . . . 167St Florian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167Mauthausen . . . . . . . . . . . 168The Traunviertel . . . . . . 170Steyr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170Bad Hall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Nationalpark Kalkalpen . . 172Wels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173Kremsmünster . . . . . . . . . 174The Mühlviertel . . . . . . . .175Freistadt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175The Innviertel . . . . . . . . 176Braunau am Inn . . . . . . . . 176Schärding . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Geinberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
STYRIA . . . . . . . . . . . .179Graz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .181Around Graz . . . . . . . . . 193Bärnbach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
Southern Styria . . . . . . 193Deutschlandsberg . . . . . . 193Ehrenhausen . . . . . . . . . . . 194Leutschach . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Riegersburg . . . . . . . . . . . . 195The Sausal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Northern Styria . . . . . . 196Mariazell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Bruck an der Mur . . . . . . . 198Leoben . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Eisenerz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200Nationalpark Gesäuse . . . 201Admont . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Johnsbach . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202Western Styria . . . . . . . 203Schladming . . . . . . . . . . . .203Murau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205
THE SALZKAMMERGUT . 207Bad Ischl . . . . . . . . . . . . 209Southern Salzkammergut . . . . . . .211Hallstätter See . . . . . . . . . 211Bad Aussee . . . . . . . . . . . . 215Northern Salzkammergut . . . . . . 216Traunsee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216Attersee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221Wolfgangsee . . . . . . . . . . . 221Mondsee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
SALZBURG & SALZBURGERLAND .227Salzburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229Around Salzburg . . . . . . 250Hellbrunn . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250Hallein & Around . . . . . . . 251Werfen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252Southern Salzburg Province . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254Filzmoos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
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Contents
Radstadt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255Mauterndorf . . . . . . . . . . . 255Hohe Tauern National Park . . . . . . . . 255Zell am See . . . . . . . . . . . . 257Bad Gastein . . . . . . . . . . . . 261Grossglockner Road . . . . 265Heiligenblut . . . . . . . . . . . . 265Krimml . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
CARINTHIA . . . . . . . 269Klagenfurt . . . . . . . . . . . 271Central Carinthia . . . . . 276Villach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Faaker See & Ossiacher See . . . . . . . . . . 279Dreiländereck . . . . . . . . . . 279Hermagor . . . . . . . . . . . . .280Eastern Carinthia . . . . . 280Friesach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .280Gurk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281Hüttenberg . . . . . . . . . . . . 281St Veit an der Glan . . . . . . 282Burg Hochosterwitz . . . . . 282Wörthersee . . . . . . . . . . . . 282Western Carinthia . . . . 283Gmünd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283Millstatt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .284Spittal an der Drau . . . . . 285Weissensee . . . . . . . . . . . .286Lienz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287
TYROL & VORARLBERG . . . . . 291Tyrol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293Innsbruck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293Hall in Tirol . . . . . . . . . . . .302Wattens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .303Schwaz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .303The Zillertal . . . . . . . . . . . .304Achensee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
Kitzbühel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311Kufstein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314Söll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315Seefeld . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316Stams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317The Ötztal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317Imst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .320Ehrwald . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .320Landeck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321Inntal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Ischgl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Arlberg Region . . . . . . . . . 324Vorarlberg . . . . . . . . . . . 330Bregenz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331Dornbirn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335Bregenzerwald . . . . . . . . . 336Feldkirch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339Bludenz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341Montafon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342
Austria Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348Architecture . . . . . . . . . 364Visual Arts & Music . . . 370Kaffeehäuser – Austria’s Living Rooms . . . . . . . . 376The Austrian Alps . . . . . 378
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 384Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 393Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 402Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 415
UNDERSTAND
SPECIAL FEATURES
Skiing & Snowboarding 33Hiking in Austria . . . . . . 39Cycling & Adventure Sports . . . . . . 46Kunsthistorishces Museum Illustrated Map . . . . . . . . 74
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Main Entrance
West Wing West WingEast Wing
Dutch, Flemish & German Painting
Italian, Spanish & French Painting
Kunstkammer Wien(Cabinet of Curiosities)
Greek & Roman Antiquities
Egyptian & Near Eastern Collection
East Wing
Administration Administration
Adoration of the Trinity
Dutch, Flemish & German Painting,
Room XVDürer’s magnum
opus altarpiece was commissioned by
Nuremberg merchant Matthäus Landauer
in 1511. Angels, saints and earthly believers
surround the Holy Trinity, while Dürer
hides in the bottom right-hand corner.
Madonna of the Rosary
Italian, Spanish & French Painting,
Room VCaravaggio’s trademark
chiaroscuro style brings depth, richness
and feeling to this 1607 masterpiece.
Holding infant Jesus, the Madonna asks St Dominic to distribute
rosaries to the barefooted poor who
kneel before her.
Offering Chapel of Ka-ni-nisutEgyptian & Near Eastern Collection,
Room IIReliefs and hieroglyphs depict the life of high-
ranking 5th-dynasty offi cial Ka-ni-nisut, together with his wife, children and entourage of mortuary
priests and servants . This 4500-year-old tomb chamber is a spectacular leap into the afterlife.
SalieraKunstkammer
Wien, Room XXIXBenvenuto Cellini’s hand-wrought gold
salt cellar (1543) is a dazzling allegorical
portrayal of Sea and Earth, personi ed by
Tellus and trident-bearing Neptune. They recline on a
base showing the four winds, times of day
and human activities.
The Tower of Babel
Dutch, Flemish & German Painting,
Room XThe futile attempts of
industrial souls to reach godly heights are magni ed
in the painstaking detail of Bruegel’s The Tower
of Babel (1563) . Rome’s Colosseum provided
inspiration.
Madonna of the Meadow
Italian, Spanish & French Painting, Room 4
The Virgin Mary, pictured with infants Christ and St John the
Baptist, has an almost iridescent quality in Raphael’s seminal High Renaissance 1506 masterpiece,
set against the backdrop of a Tuscan meadow.
Gemma Augustea CameoGreek & Roman Antiquities, Room XVIPossibly the handiwork of imperial gem-cutter Dioscurides, this sardonyx cameo from the 1st century AD shows in exquisite bas-relief the dei cation of Augustus, in the guise of Jupiter, who sits next to Roma. The defeated barbarians occupy the lower tier.
SummerItalian, Spanish &
French Painting, Room 7
Italian court painter Giuseppe Arcimboldo’s
Summer (1563) was a hit with the Habsburgs. The most striking of his four seasons cycle, this masterwork celebrates seasonal abundance in
the form of a portrait composed of fruit and
vegetables.
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spirit-lifting Adoration of the Trinity 4 in room XV, takes in meaty Rubens and Rembrandt works en route, and climaxes with Pieter Bruegel the Elder’s absorbingly detailed The Tower of Babel 5 in room X. Allocate equal time to the Italian, Spanish and French masters in the halls opposite. Masterpieces including Raphael’s Madonna of the Meadow 6 in room 4, Caravaggio’s merciful Madonna of the Rosary 7 in room V and Giuseppe Arcimboldo’s Summer 8 in room 7 steal the show.
HALF-DAY TOUR OFTHE HIGHLIGHTSThe Kunsthistorisches Museum’s scale can seem daunting; this half-day itinerary will help you make the most of your visit.
Ascend the grand marble staircase, marvelling at the impact of Antonio Canova’s Theseus Slaying the Centaur. Turn right into the Egyptian and Near Eastern Collection, where you can decipher the reliefs of the Offering
Chapel of Ka-ni-nisut 1 in room II. Skip through millennia to Ancient Rome, where the intricacy of the Gemma Augustea Cameo 2 in room XVI is captivating. The other wing of this floor is devoted to the Kunstkammer Wien, hiding rarities such as Benvenuto Cellini’s golden Saliera 3 in room XXIX.
Head up a level to the Picture Gallery, a veritable orgy of Renaissance and baroque art. Bearing to the East Wing brings you to Dutch, Flemish and German Painting, which starts with Dürer’s
TOP TIPS » Pick up an audio guide and a floor
plan in the entrance hall to orientate yourself. » Skip to the front of the queue by
booking your ticket online. » Visit between 6pm and 9pm on
Thursday for fewer crowds. » Flash photography is not permitted.
Kunsthistorisches Museum
kunsthistorisches-museum-IH.indd All Pages 12/12/2016 2:11:29 PM
Itineraries
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This itinerary is Austria in a nutshell, winging you from Vienna’s opulent palaces and coffee houses to the vine-stitched Wachau Valley, and west to the Alps in Salzburgerland. Mozart, Maria and landscapes no well-orchestrated symphony or yodelling nun could ever quite capture – this one has the lot.
Devote a couple of cultural days to swanning around Habsburg palaces, world-class galleries hung with Klimts and sumptuous coffee houses in Vienna.
A breezy hour’s train ride west and you’re in the heart of wine country and on the Danube in the picture-book Wachau. Linger for a day or two to lap up the castles, ab-beys and local rieslings.
Swing west now for two days to the Salzkammergut, where cinematic mountain backdrops rim lakes of bluest blue. Base yourself in ludicrously pretty Hallstatt for peak-gazing swims and a visit to Dachstein’s astonishing ice caves. From here, head west to Salzburg for a feast of baroque art, prince-archbishop palaces, Mozart and more. After a couple of days, tag on a day in Werfen with its high-on-a-hill castle and extraordinary Eisriesenwelt – all backdropped by the Tennengebirge’s jagged limestone peaks.
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Launch your trip in Salzburg, with three days combing the back alleys and clamber-ing up to the castle to outpomp all castles in Mozart’s hometown. You might want to hook onto a Sound of Music tour or whizz up to the Alps from here. Or detour to Italianate Schloss Hellbrunn or Hallein’s salt works.
From Salzburg, the road dips south to the most gently picturesque of the lakes in the Salzkammergut, the Wolfgangsee, where summertime swimming, walking and cycling are splendid. Tick off some the lesser-known towns on hikes or rides over the next few days.
From lakeside St Wolfgang or St Gilgen, it’s a short bus hop to Bad Ischl, a crack-ing base for exploring other lakes in the Salzkammergut over the next three days. The most dramatic of these is the Hallstät-ter See, with Hallstatt or more laid back (but less historic) Obertraun perfect for overnighting. Near Obertraun, take in Dachstein’s surreal ice caves on a cable-car ride and tack on a hike in the area.
Salzburgerland & Salzkammergut
10 DAYS
This is the grand tour of Austria’s cities, loaded with culture and with a tantalising pinch of the alpine landscapes.
Kick start your trip with three days of cultural immersion in Vienna, lapping up Habsburg life in Klimt-crammed Schloss Belvedere or opulent Schloss Schönbrunn, before heading west along the Danube Val-ley to Krems an der Donau. Pause here for cutting-edge galleries and wine tast-ings, factoring in a trip to the spirit-lifting Benedictine abbey-fortress in Melk, slung high above the Danube.
On day seven (a day or two earlier in winter), head on to Linz, an industrial city with edgy galleries like Lentos and Ars Electronica. The trail to mountain-rimmed Hallstatt and the lakes of the Salzkammer-gut are soothingly beautiful on day eight.
From Hallstatt, either venture to Salz-burg, a pristine, castle-topped baroque city, for a Mozart and Maria fix, or stop off in lakeside Zell am See, where hiking trails thread among some of Austria’s high-est peaks, before continuing to Innsbruck for a dose of culture, hiking, skiing – what-ever takes your fancy.
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This spin of the south takes you to chilled-out, culture-packed Graz, the vineyards of Styria, the astonishingly turquoise Wörthersee and many other lakes, villages and little-known trails besides.
Factor in three or four days to slip under the surface of Graz, Austria’s friendly, easygoing second city, where space-age galleries, Renaissance courtyards and a spirited food and nightlife scene rival for your attention. On the third day, venture out along the south Styrian wine roads, a Tuscan-like landscape hugging the Slove-nian border with vineyards at every bend.
A train takes you to Klagenfurt via Leo-ben where you can break the journey for a few hours and check out its Museums-Centre Leoben. The remaining five days can be divided between Klagenfurt and Wörthersee, Villach or Spittal an der Drau, all towns with a sprinkling of sights and plenty of outdoor activities. Towns such as Hermagor in the Gail Valley have great cycling, hiking and (in winter) skiing possibilities at Nassfeld.
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Wherever you go in Tyrol you’ll be con-fronted by mountains. Grab your hiking boots or skis and dive into these incredible alpine valleys.
Start with a few days in laid-back Inns-bruck. Stroll the historic Altstadt (old town), taking in its galleries, Habsburg treasures and upbeat nightlife, or take the futuristic funicular to the Nordkette. From Innsbruck, go south for scenic skiing in the Stubai Glacier or west to the exquisite baroque abbey in Stams.
On day five head to the spectacularly rugged Ötztal, where you can dip into pre-history at Ötzi Dorf and thermal waters at Aqua Dome spa. Spend the next couple of days rafting near Landeck, exploring the Rosengartenschlucht gorge at Imst, or hik-ing and skiing in St Anton am Arlberg.
In week two, return to Innsbruck and swing east. Factor in a day for the pristine medieval town of Hall, and the crystal-studded Swarovski Kristallwelten in Wat-tens. The alpine scenery of the Zillertal will have you itching to head outdoors. Round out at fortress-topped Kufstein and the legendary mountains of Kitzbühel.
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Map Legend
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541538th edition – May 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 440 4© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERSMarc Di DucaA travel author for the last decade, Marc has worked for Lonely Planet in Siberia, Slovakia, Bavaria, England, Ukraine, Austria, Poland, Croatia, Portugal, Madeira and on the Trans-Siberian Railway, as well as writing and updating tens of other guides for other publishers. When not on the road, Marc lives between Sandwich, Kent, and Mariánské Láznĕ in the Czech Republic with his wife and two sons.
Kerry ChristianiVienna, Salzburg & Salzburgerland, Tyrol & Vorarlberg, Plan Your Trip, Under-stand Austria, Surivival Guide Kerry’s first encounter with real snow in Tyrol more than 15 years ago sparked her enduring love affair with the Austrian Alps – and she’s been returning ever since. For this edition, she sweated out a heatwave in the Hohe Tauern Alps, grappled with white-water rapids in Tyrol, tested out radon cures and climbed (almost) every mountain. Kerry is an award-winning
travel writer, and has authored/co-authored many of Lonely Planet’s central and southern Europe-an titles. Follow her travels on her website https://its-a-small-world.com and tweets @kerrychristiani.
Catherine Le NevezVienna, Upper Austria Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she roadtripped across Europe from her Parisian base aged four, and she’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, travelling to around 60 countries and completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing along the way. She’s written scores of Lone-ly Planet guides and articles covering Paris, France, Europe and far beyond. Her work has also appeared in numerous online and print publications.
Donna WheelerVienna, Lower Austria & Burgenland, Styria, The Salzkammergut Carinthia Donna has written for Lonely Planet’s Italy, Norway, Belgium, Africa, Tunisia, Algeria, France, Austria and Melbourne guidebooks. Born and bred in Sydney, Australia, Donna fell in love with Melbourne’s moody bluestone streets as a teenage art student. She has divided her time between there and her home town for over two decades, along with residential stints in Turin, Paris, Bordeaux, New
York, London and rural Ireland. Donna travels widely (and deeply) in Europe, North Africa, the US and Asia.
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