Women’s Wear Daily • Wednesday, September 29, 2010 • $3.00

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collectionsJuicy’s New Woman

By Lisa LockwoodJUICY COUTURE, A DIVISION OF Liz Claiborne Inc., has poached LeAnn Nealz, executive vice president and chief design offi cer at American Eagle Outfi tters Inc., as its new president and chief creative offi cer. Nealz will be responsible for all creative aspects of the business, including product design, marketing and store design, and will report to Edgar Huber, chief executive offi cer of Juicy.Nealz succeeds Juicy co-founders and co-designers Gela Nash-Taylor and Pamela Skaist-Levy, who left their day-to-day responsibilities in January and took on nonoperating creative roles at the company. The duo plan to launch their own brand next year when their non-compete runs out. Last April, Juicy named Erin Fetherston as guest designer and creative consultant. Fetherston worked on a small holiday 2010 capsule collection and is completing the 2011 collections as planned. She will leave next year. Nealz’s infl uence will be evident in late 2011. “We needed a leader who could address all the future opportunities/10

Brand Taps NealzTo Oversee Design

Pierre Cardin on Pierre Cardin/Fashion: The octogenarian designer talks about his fi rst runway show in years, his plans for the American market, Lady Gaga — and why he’s still at it. !

Russell Simmons to Relaunch ArgyleCulture/News: After a series of struggles, the brand is to be reintroduced as an exclusive at Macy’s. Buyers Applaud Milan’s Mood/Retail: Fashion buyers left Milan praising the likes of Prada, Jil Sander, Giorgio Armani, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana — not to mention the upbeat mood on the runway.

Parties, from Milan to New York/Eye: The fashion set turns out for amfAR in Milan, while stars and socials fl ock to the Met for Wagner’s “Ring.”

Aloha, ParisJohn Galliano is giving Christian Dior a dose of tropical punch, as the Paris houses count down to showtime for spring. Here, his graphic Hawaiian-style top and racy crocheted skirt. For more on what’s going on in the leading ateliers of Paris, see pages 4 to 6.

John Galliano is giving Christian Dior a dose of tropical punch, as the Paris houses count down to showtime for spring. Here, his graphic Hawaiian-style top and racy crocheted skirt. For more on what’s going on in the leading ateliers of Paris, see pages 4 to 6.

Aloha, Paris

WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 20102WWD.COM

• Additional images from the Metropolitan Opera House’s

Opening Night Gala • Extra photos from the amfAR auction in Milan

• Coverage of Paris Fashion Week

• They Are Wearing: ParisPHOT

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“I’m still in good shape, I

work every day.”

— Pierre Cardin. Page 7.

QUOTEDAILY TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS

FIRSTNAME.LASTNAME@FAIRCHILDPUB.COM, USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.VOLUME 200, NO. 67. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June and December, two additional issues in March, April, August, September, October and November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg, President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President-Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or via e-mail at sales@scoopreprintsource.com. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Group magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

TODAY ON

.COMWWD

It was a week before the 1985 opening of Maxim’s de Paris in New York and party planner Pat Buckley was still behind on a number of counts. For one, the menu had yet to be finalized, although she promised to WWD, “Oh, we’ll have caviar, of course.” Plates were still packed away — “It will have to stay that way for while,” she added, “we don’t want dirty plates” — and the carpenters and electricians were still out in full force. The pressure was certainly on; this was the first American outpost for Pierre Cardin’s Maxim’s empire and the designer, who bought the original Maxim’s in 1981, was already comparing the two-story eatery to the Statue of Liberty. “To Cardin, the legendary watering hole is a symbol of the bonhomie he feels exists between France and the U.S.,” wrote WWD on Sept. 20. “‘I don’t ex-pect people to thank me for this now, but later, in years to come,’ he adds.”

The restaurant was designed to be an exact copy of its Paris counterpart, from the mirrors and the velvet banquettes to the murals and the china. Even the bathrooms were ultraposh, decorated belle epoque style. “Why not?” said Cardin. “You spend more time in there than anyplace else.”

— Venessa Lau

By Sharon Edelson

J.C. PENNEY CO. INC. ON TUESDAY SAID IT WILL OPEN THREE STORES NEXT YEAR as part of its plan to generate $1 billion in sales growth through new retail expansion over the next five years. Penney’s long term plans call for opening 75 new stores by 2014.

The first three stores are slated for Dallas; Daly City, Calif., which borders San Francisco, and Glenarden, Md., about 10 miles east of Washington. Penney’s has existing stores in all three markets, which cater to middle-income shoppers.

While Wal-Mart Stores Inc. slowed construction of SuperCenters amid the weakening economy and Gap Inc. has said it’s not planning to open new stores in the near term, Penney’s believes the markets it’s identified are underserved by its stores, so it will intensify its presence. The Daly City and Glenarden stores will open in the spring and the Dallas unit will bow in the fall.

Penney’s has an aggressive store-renovation program. By October, more than 750 units will have been renovated during 2010, including 76 major renovations, which took place in California, Florida, Illinois, Maryland, New York and Texas. Penney’s is aggressively ex-panding Sephora beauty boutiques. The retailer said stores with 1,500-square-foot Sephora installations are performing 1.5 percent better those without them. Other store improve-ments include in-store shops for new brands such as MNG by Mango, Call It Spring by Aldo, and new fixturing for the rollout of Liz Claiborne across 30 categories. Findmore interactive in-store fixtures are also making their way through the store fleet. Consumers can purchase from jcp.com using the technology.

Penney’s is investing $160 million on the improvements out of its $500 million capital- expenditure budget for the year.

The retailer hopes to complete the major renovations of more than 375 stores by 2014.

By David Moin

ARGYLECULTURE, THE THREE-YEAR-OLD MEN’S COLLECTION for the “urban graduate” moving beyond the Phat Farm, hip-hop look, hasn’t exactly set the fashion world on fire. But the breakout moment has arrived, at least according to the designer and music mogul behind the brand, Russell Simmons.

On Thursday, ArgyleCulture gets relaunched at Macy’s Herald Square with a new 750-square-foot shop, and Simmons starts his road show at Macy’s stores around the country to promote the brand.

In addition, a fall advertising campaign with Tyson Beckford as the face of ArgyleCulture launches Oct. 11, and a tuxedo-ed Simmons will be splashed across the side of city buses. After that, Simmons takes another dive into reality TV with an eight-part series beginning Nov. 2 chronicling the making of ArgyleCulture. Terry Lundgren, chair-man, chief executive and president of Macy’s Inc., which sells ArgyleCulture exclusively, will appear in several episodes with Simmons.

ArgyleCulture has been bogged down by deliv-ery problems and legal squabbles with its sourc-ing agent, LF USA, and overshadowed by other brands, including those it draws inspiration from, such as Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. “Before, we were never sure about our deliveries. That’s behind us,” Simmons said in an interview. “Now we are capable of delivering on time. Our clothes are in the warehouse and waiting to be on the floor. We are prepared. We have our team in place. We have the money. Remember, it took five years for Phat Farm [the hip-hop brand that Simmons started and eventually sold] to gain footing. I don’t really have good success at the beginning.”

Simmons acknowledged that ArgyleCulture has been slow to hit its stride, with a small volume he placed at under $5 million. But he feels the brand is in a good place now, and consumers are, too. “The hole in the market is big enough to drive a truck through. The white space is unbelievable.” Among consumers, “There’s less of a fear factor buying clothes.” Though the econ-omy has not improved much, “the idea of going on with our lives is out there.”

At Macy’s, the ArgyleCulture shop will sit next to Hilfiger and Lauren, Simmons said, though it has “a different language” that speaks to young men in college to those aged 50 or so who have “graduated” from the hip-hop look. “They want to wear stuff

that gives them a little swagger, that gives them a little edge,” Simmons said. “It’s Brooks Brothers meets Tommy meets Ralph, but more colorful, playful and fun.”

Asked to list some of the standouts in the collection, Simmons cited wintery, heathery argyle sweaters with a little silk to make them pop, “cool” corduroys with a different cut, off-colored denims, blue blazers with gold buttons and collars with a burgundy under-side, simple argyle sweaters with a fresh point of view, and Oxford shirts in soft “liberating” fabrics. The cut is typical for men’s wear, though maybe a little smaller, he added. Products include polos priced at $39; button-downs, $52; vests, $58; basic jeans, $52; fashion jeans, $58; ArgyleCulture Adidas shoes, $65; gray blazers, $98, and sports jacket and zipper-placket blazers, $150.

Recently, Russell Simmons sued LF USA’s The Millwork Trading Co. unit for more than $55 million, alleging fraud and breach of contract over its marketing of ArgyleCulture. “I am not at liberty to talk about that. I want to move on and protect my business and make sure I deliver on my promises.” LF USA con-tinues to ship both ArgyleCulture and American Classics, which is also designed by Simmons and sold at Wal-Mart under the cur-rent licensing agreement.

Simmons said the exclusive arrangement with Macy’s will ex-tend at least through next spring. “The line is developed right out of my imagination,” Simmons said. “My imagination is not so crazy. It’s kind of commercial. I am going to deliver this company, no matter what. It ought to be a great success. I am pushing to make the company relevant, and for people to understand the space it’s filling.”

SEPTEMBER 20, 1985MAXIM’S IMPACT

Macy’s Relaunches Simmons’ ArgyleCulture

Penney’s Sees 75 Store Openings by 2014

A rendering of the ArgyleCulture shop opening Thursday at Macy’s Herald Square.

Kerry Washington in Marchesa.

WASHINGTON — U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement said Tuesday it reached a $1.05 mil-lion settlement with teen retailer Abercrombie & Fitch Co. for vio-lating federal immigration laws by failing to adequately verify that employees in its Michigan stores were eligible to work in the U.S.

According to ICE’s Office of Homeland Security Investigations, the settlement stems from a November 2008 inspection that un-covered numerous deficiencies in the chain’s electronic I-9 verifica-tion system, which is supposed to verify that workers are eligible to work in the U.S. ICE said they knew of no illegal aliens who were actu-ally hired by A&F as a result of the technology deficiencies and that Abercrombie had since addressed the problems and implemented new company practices to prevent any future violations.

“Employers are responsible not only for the people they hire, but also for the internal systems they choose to utilize to manage their employment process and those systems must result in effective compliance,” said Brian Moskowitz, the ICE special agent in charge of Michigan and Ohio.

Moskowitz said other compa-nies should see the settlement as a warning to take the employment verification process seriously. Employers in the U.S. are required to submit an I-9 form for every worker hired to verify their identi-ty and their eligibility to work. A&F declined to comment.

— Liza Casabona

Government Hits A&F With $1.05 Million Fine

WWD.COM3WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 2010

Milan Draws Raves for Use of Color, PrintsBy WWD Staff

MILAN — With shots of bold color on the catwalk, Milan Fashion Week injected a sense of optimism into the spring season.

Buyers praised the punchy prints, fine craftsmanship and bohemian spirit that characterized many of the collections, citing Prada, Jil Sander and Dolce & Gabbana among standouts.

“It’s clear that the big Yves Saint Laurent retrospective that ended in Paris in August had a big impact,” said Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director at Neiman Marcus.

That was reflected in the strong Seventies trend, with maxiskirts and dresses, peasant blouses and a focus on vibrant color.

Barbara Atkin, vice president of fash-ion direction at Canada’s Holt Renfrew, said the best collections pointed the way to a new casual wave in fashion.

“The 21st century luxury customer now lives a life less focused on formal-wear and more focused on a relaxed, ac-tive lifestyle,” she said.

This season’s longer schedule also gave buyers time to check out emerging talents at events such as the “Who Is on Next?” showcase co-sponsored by Vogue Italia, and the city’s fashion trade fairs, including White, Touch, neoZone and cloudnine.

Here is what buyers had to say:

Tancrède de Lalun, general merchandise man-ager, women’s and men’s apparel, Printemps“Color is back, with very saturated shades that are sometimes so intense they bor-der on fluorescent. There is also a strong trend toward floral prints, and Milan has confirmed the white trend we saw a lot of in New York. When you see black, it tends to be head-to-toe. The other noteworthy trend is a return to a type of femininity and softness in the shapes and textures, with fabrics like crepe de chine and lightweight cotton. Broderie anglaise is

a strong trend, both on the catwalk and in showrooms. Our budgets are on the rise. With fashion undergoing a renewal, women will want to update their ward-robes, so we are optimistic.”Standout collections: Prada, Jil Sander and Dolce & Gabbana.

Barbara Atkin, vice president of fashion direc-tion, Holt Renfrew“Milan has proven to be a powerfully op-timistic season of bold color and print, remarkable craftsmanship, new longer hemlines and simple shapes that we are confident will drive customers into the stores. Bold color, tribal influenc-es, bohemian Seventies, fringe, longer lengths and floral prints are some of the key trends that will impact the clothes for spring. The designer business is on an upward trend with many collections experiencing double-digit growth. Our budgets reflect this growth, while at the same time we are keeping our invento-ries in line for spring, having success-fully right-sized our business last season. Our shopping list includes easy toppers, flared pants, the longer-length skirt and dress, soft blouses and tunics and simple, easy jackets. The longer week has provid-ed the opportunity to visit the many new stores in Milan in search of new concepts and spend more time with new design-ers. Our eyes are on MSGM, Vincenzo De Cotiis, Drome and Isabella Tonchi.”Standout collections: Gucci, Prada, Jil Sander, Dolce & Gabbana and Brunello Cucinelli.

Maiko Shibata, women’s buyer, Restir, Tokyo“Milan is kind of an established fashion market, ruled by king Armani, queen Versace, D&G, Gucci. We need some-thing new to explore new types of fash-ion. Vogue magazine has started to sup-port new designers, and I think that’s the great step for young creativity.” Restir’s budgets for Milan are down. “The reason

is that Giambattista Valli and Valentino show their collections in Paris, and I can’t find any new talent to go with this season’s feeling. But I hope to add more next season. Every product has to have a message or strong identity. For example, Carmina Campus has a strong policy to support the environment which can’t be copied by Zara and H&M.”

Raya Dernaika, co-owner of Plum, Beirut “Italian designers are going back to sen-suality: It’s a new trend which is posi-tive for our store. We needed a change, as buyers and customers alike are fed up with grunge and military looks. I really liked Jil Sander — everybody could see how different the mood was.”

Ken Downing, senior vice president, fashion di-rector, Neiman Marcus“It was very exciting: bold color, border-ing on neon, and all of the bohemian, ro-mantic spirit is very appealing as well. I feel the maxiskirt and the maxidress will be an important trend. White will be equally important, as well as lace, stripes and floral prints. The houses have also upped the craftsmanship, which is some-thing you look for in Milan.”Standout collections: Jil Sander, Prada, Pucci, Versace and Gucci.

Leonardo Girombelli, brand manager, TheCorner.com, owned by Italian e-tailer Yoox“I noticed in general a modern, confi-dent, fluid and more relaxed approach. Silhouettes were longer, volumes were simpler and less close to the body, with sack shapes, therefore more easy and comfortable. Colors were vivid, energetic and not shy at all with blue, magenta, grass green and orange in strong ac-cents. I liked the idea of strongly pushing sportswear and playing with it, as seen at Marni. I particularly appreciated the work of Raf Simons for Jil Sander for his supermodern vision that pushed sports-

wear close to couture, for the propor-tions and the sharp contrasts between strong yet sophisticated colors.”

Colleen Sherin, fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue“Milan has offered a solid fashion sea-son, infused with new ideas that will entice women to shop. The explosion of bright, vibrant color was a welcome jolt to the season, and the bold colorblock-ing. The Seventies trend continued to gain momentum in Milan, with the recent Yves Saint Laurent exhibition in Paris clearly providing great inspiration. Other key categories and items include the lon-ger length for skirts and dresses, fringing effects, stripes, knitwear in crochet and macramé, trenchcoats, bold sunglasses, Seventies hats, python and suede.”Standout col lections: Jil Sander, Emilio Pucci, Gucci, Etro, Prada and Aquilano.Rimondi.

Stephanie Solomon, vice president of fashion direction, Bloomingdale’s“There were shocking bursts of color on every runway, except of course for Dolce & Gabbana, which heralded an-other strong trend: white. I see this sea-son as being one filled with high energy and fun prints. They can range from the standard polka dots to stripes to artist’s prints to florals. Armani, meanwhile, felt like an oasis of blue amid a sea of color and print, and it was beautiful. I would vote for the longer lengths this season because most of us own a miniskirt al-ready, and the maxi looks very new and fresh. I think designers were having fun, and that’s what dressing should be. Among emerging designers, I really liked Aquilano.Rimondi. They’re evolving into that stratosphere of really talented world- class designers.”Standout collections: Prada, Jil Sander, Giorgio Armani, Aquilano.Rimondi and Salvatore Ferragamo.

Prada Jil Sander Gucci

Emilio Pucci

Dolce & Gabbana

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4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 2010

Fitting pretty at Chanel.

In the shadows at Hussein Chalayan.

Pink pant-er at Isabel Marant.

Turning Japanese at Dries Van Noten.

WWD.COM5WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 2010

OPENING GAMBITSPARIS

spring ’11

collections

It’s nip-and-tuck time in studios across Paris as designers put finishing touches on their collections.

In focus at Alexis Mabille.

Casting call at

Tsumori Chisato.

Felix the Africat at JC de

Castelbajac.

Cuff link at Viktor & Rolf.

WWD.COM6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 2010

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cheek-to-cheek at Zac Posen.

Super Size Me at Maison

Martin Margiela.

Amazing grace at Rick Owens.

Softly, softly at Giambattista Valli.

Planet bandanna at Jean Paul Gaultier.

WWD.COMWWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 2010 7

WWD: What can we expect to see at your anniversary show?Pierre Cardin: They are all original creations. I am going to show a new men’s and women’s collection, and there are obviously some very provocative things which are very innovative, alongside designs that are more commercial. But what is important for me is to show my innovation. WWD: What inspired you for your return to the Paris catwalk? P.C.: Showing that the brand still exists as a creative force — that’s what drives me. And I notice that what I do early on becomes commercial some 15 or 20 years later. I’m always ahead of the curve. WWD: Lady Gaga wore one of your dresses for a video shoot. Are you pleased?P.C.: Yes, of course. Back in the day, I dressed the Beatles and the Rolling Stones. I have always designed very provocative clothes for young people. WWD: Why did you decide to return to the Espace Cardin after staging spectacular displays in the Gobi desert or the Palais Bulles on the French Riviera?P.C.: When I started showing at the Espace Cardin, people did not show in theaters. You showed in salons with gilded chairs. I was the first to show in outside venues. It was considered provocative at the time, although you see what has happened since. This is my space, and the large conference room allows me to present my designs without artifice. It’s very pure, very simple, white and clean, and it puts the spotlight on the clothes. I want to highlight my collection, not do something theatrical. WWD: Do you still have a lot of demand for couture?P.C.: Our clients are very elegant and very faithful. The global clientele for haute couture has declined, but I must have around 100 customers a year who buy three, four, five or six dresses at a time. They are very discreet women who want to remain out of the spotlight. We don’t sell ready-to-wear here [at the flagship Paris boutique located at 27 Avenue de Marigny]. Everything you see in the windows is haute couture, and the dresses are made in our atelier here. I have some 80 seamstresses working for me, including around 50 in my factory in Châteaurenard, which acts as an extension of the atelier here because I don’t have enough space. Given my age, a lot of them have been with me for at least 30 years. I don’t produce seasonal collections, because as you can see, I sketch very quickly. I can do 100 sketches per hour! WWD: You also plan to stage a show in New York in October. Why?

P.C.: My aim is to boost my sales in the U.S. and to raise my profile among young people. Since I don’t get a lot of press coverage, young people don’t know who I am. I want to show them I am still avant-garde and that I produce original designs, and I also want to help my licensees, who rely on my creativity, after all. Unfortunately, they produce very classic outfits for men. I wish they picked up my designs. Instead, they produce this fusty, bourgeois stuff. It drives me to desperation, because I bring them my original designs to copy. That is the purpose of their licenses. I don’t know why, they just won’t do it. We really need someone to drum up new licenses there. They could make a killing, because my designs are very youthful. All you see is these old Hart Schaffner Marx suits for old men. It makes me ashamed to even look at them. We haven’t made much of an effort there, I have to admit it’s partly my fault. Business is strong; it’s not a small country. I make a lot of money, but not as much as I should. It’s not about making money, of course, but about having a presence. I am ambitious, you understand.” WWD: Have you ever considered hiring a young designer to revitalize your brand?P.C.: No, because I have five people sketching for me who are very young. And I think the young designers of today are less avant-garde than I am. I’m still in good shape, I work every day. WWD: How do you feel about being awarded Fashion Group International’s Board of Directors Legend Award next month? P.C.: I am very happy. At the start of my career, I spent a month crisscrossing the U.S. on behalf of Fashion Group. I was the one who did the first fashion shows in all the big department stores, in 1955 or 1956. WWD: So, in a way, you are coming full circle. P.C.: I have not come full circle. I have to start all over again!

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PIERRE CARDINQAPARIS — Pierre Cardin celebrates the 60th anniversary of his label today with his first Paris catwalk show in a decade.

Just don’t expect him to raid the archives.The pioneer of Space Age fashion — who can churn out 100 sketches

an hour — is determined to show he can still break the rules at 88.Here, Cardin speaks with WWD about his comeback, Lady Gaga and why

his licensees drive him to desperation.— Joelle Diderich

For more images, see WWD.com.

Pierre Cardin

with models in

his new designs.

Looks from Pierre Cardin’s upcoming collection.

WWD.COMWWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 20108

FOR YEARS, THE BREAST CANCER AWARENESS Campaign led by Evelyn Lauder, who also is senior cor-porate vice president of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., has lit up its mission by bathing buildings around the world in pink light. Now the group is also taking a more inti-mate — and more direct — approach to getting its mes-sage across via the soft glow of a video screen.

This is the third and the most ambitious year of an effort by the Estée Lauder Cos.’ Breast Cancer Awareness Campaign to harness the power of social media on the Internet to build awareness. That effort will culminate at 5:30 p.m. today in an event sponsored by Bloomingdale’s on the main floor cosmetics depart-ment of the 59th Street flagship in Manhattan, co-hosted by Lauder and Elizabeth Hurley. Customers will be in-vited to enter a temporary video booth set up for the occasion, and make a pledge of their determination to aid the fight against breast cancer. The pledges will be shared on a widget created for the campaign, and some of them will appear on a special Web site, BCAPledge.org, which is more like a blog platform.

The inspiration for the pledge drive grew out of a public service ad conceived by James Gager, senior vice president and group creative director for MAC Cosmetics, La Mer and Jo Malone brands (see related story below) and Toni Lakis, vice president of MAC Design. The photo, shot by Michael Thompson, shows a woman covering her naked breast with her hand. It il-lustrates the slogan “Connect. Communicate. Conquer.”

Marisa Thalberg, vice president of global digital marketing at the Estée Lauder Cos., and her Internet crew were looking for a hook on which to build Web content and were looking at the ad. “We knew that this image was really designed to communicate the idea of a woman taking control of her breast health, being em-powered for self examination,” Thalberg said. But on second glance, “we realized that a woman with a hand across her chest could also connote a woman taking a pledge, and we thought that was a very interesting idea from a social media standpoint.”

A widget was created that could be embedded on multiple sites, both the official Web sites and the Facebook pages of the individual brands. The mecha-nism enables women to write in a pledge and send it via Facebook or Twitter to someone else.

The power of the ad visual was plugged into the social media world with one move. “We came up with the idea of recreating this image and having bloggers, influential bloggers, from all different spheres of blog-ging, pose,” Thalberg said. “These are real people — not models — who are social media influencers.”

In the end, 12 people from nine blogs posed naked with an arm over their breasts. The resultant pictures will be on display and the bloggers will be present at the Bloomingdale’s event. The bloggers come from dif-

ferent walks of the blogosphere, such as finance-expert Amanda Steinberg of DailyWorth.

In addition to the Lauder brand sites in North America, the overseas subsidiaries are also participat-ing. “We’ve truly created a global campaign,” Thalberg added. The implications of the geographic reach were not lost on Lauder. She said the key point of the pledge campaign is that it will attract so many ethnic groups from around the world. “[Breast cancer] does affect every ethnicity,” she said, adding that the goal is to at-tract “a variety of points of view and philosophies — people worried about their mothers, people concerned

about their daughters and their unborn grandchildren, their unborn granddaughters.”

The campaign also involves every aspect of social media. The Bloomingdale’s booth is video equipped, in which someone can visually record their pledge and share it via YouTube. The campaign will be tweeting through the Breast Cancer Awareness Month of October, and a Twitter Girls’ Night Out party will be held on Monday, Oct. 18. “We are really tapping the major social channels — Facebook, Twitter, blogs and YouTube — to really spread the message,” Thalberg said.

As in years past, the buildings will be illuminated and practically every Lauder brand has contributed special merchandise to sell and generate funding for the overall Breast Cancer Research Foundation. The Lauder corporation, its brands and its retail partners have all together generated $45 million of the total $290 million raised to fund research work since 1993.

One of the most passionate retail partners has been Bloomingdale’s, which has raised $1.4 million since 2005. That was enough for the store to sponsor a grant and a researcher on its own. Michael Gould, chairman and chief executive officer, said, “We have the ability to raise our voice on an issue that we consider important. At the end of the day, what we can do for others is more important than how many lipsticks we’ve sold.”

— Pete Born

Gager Promoted at MACMAC Cosmetics executive James Gager has been named senior vice president and group creative director for the MAC Cosmetics, La Mer and Jo Malone brands glob-ally. Gager, who was senior vice president and creative director for MAC Cosmetics Worldwide, will continue to report to John Demsey, group president of the Estée Lauder Cos. and will begin his new duties immediately.

In this newly created position, Gager will be respon-sible for all creative activity for the MAC Cosmetics, La Mer and Jo Malone brands. Since 1999, Gager has con-ceptualized all creative activity for the MAC Cosmetics brand, including collaborations with Mattel for Barbie for MAC and Lady Gaga for Viva Glam.

— Julie Naughton

Among the participating bloggers, from left: Jane Couto, Sharon Couto and Audrey McClelland from the blog site Momgenerations.com. Right: Evelyn Lauder with the Breast Cancer Awareness Campaign ad.

Lauder Breast Cancer Awareness Push Gets Wired

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For more information on attending or sponsoring, call 212.630.4803, email jessica_introna@condenast.com or log on to www.wwd.com/media/summits/apparel.

FRANÇOIS-HENRI PINAULT CHAIRMAN & CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

PPR

MICHAEL KORS HONORARY CHAIRMAN & PRINCIPAL DESIGNER

MICHAEL KORS (USA) INC.

MARISSA MAYERVICE PRESIDENT, SEARCH PRODUCTS & USER EXPERIENCE

GOOGLE INC.

DENISE INCANDELA PRESIDENT, SAKS DIRECT, & GROUP SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT

SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

DICK COSTOLOCHIEF OPERATING OFFICER

TWITTER INC.

KENNETH COLE CHAIRMAN & CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER

KENNETH COLE PRODUCTIONS

REED KRAKOFF PRESIDENT & EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR

COACH & REED KRAKOFF

KATHLEEN TAYLORCHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

FOUR SEASONS HOTELS LTD.

APPAREL & RETAILCEO SUMMIT

NOVEMBER 1+2 @ THE PLAZA, NEW YORK CITY

ADDITIONAL SPEAKERS INCLUDE:

RALPH LAUREN, Chairman & Chief Executive Offi cer, Polo Ralph Lauren Corp.

LEW FRANKFORT, Chairman & Chief Executive Offi cer, Coach Inc.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, Chief Executive Offi cer, Ermenegildo Zegna SpA

TERRY J. LUNDGREN, Chairman, President & Chief Executive Offi cer, Macy’s Inc.

TOMMY HILFIGER, Principal Designer & Visionary, Tommy Hilfi ger USA Inc.

SUKHINDER SINGH CASSIDY, Chief Executive Offi cer, Polyvore Inc.

CHRIS SANDERSON, Strategy & Insight Director, The Future Laboratory

JOHN DONAHOE, President & Chief Executive Offi cer, eBay Inc.

MICHAEL MCNAMARA, Vice President, MasterCard SpendingPulse

DENNIS CROWLEY, Co-Founder & Chief Executive Offi cer, Foursquare Labs Inc.

PIERS FAWKES, Founder & Chief Executive Offi cer, PSFK

SUSAN S. HART, Co-Leader, Global Retail, Apparel & Luxury Goods Practice, Spencer Stuart

JILL BERAUD, Chief Marketing Offi cer & President, Joint Ventures, PepsiCo Americas Beverages

MARY-KATE OLSEN AND ASHLEY OLSEN, Co-Presidents, Dualstar Entertainment Group

EDMOND JAY, Senior Vice President, Business Insights, American Express

HOWARD TUBIN, Director, Softlines Equity Research, RBC Capital Markets

RAYMOND W. KELLY, Police Commissioner, City of New York

JOHN F. MEGRUE JR., Chief Executive Offi cer, U.S., Apax Partners

JAKE NICKELL, Founder, Threadless

WWD.COMWWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 2010 9

MARC JACOBS’ INTERNATIONAL EX-pansion continues, this time taking him to the land of gummy fish, Ikea and that famous Muppet chef.

Last week, Jacobs and his busi-ness partner, Robert Duffy, opened the first Marc by Marc Jacobs boutique in Stockholm. The 1,850-square-foot unit is located at Smålandsgatan 10, diagonally across the street from Louis Vuitton and nearby other fashion boutiques like Zadig & Voltaire, Acne and Max Mara.

Designed by Stephan Jaklitsch Architects, the Stockholm Marc by Marc Jacobs boutique features exposed blue ceilings and a new blue concrete floor that gives the space an industrial feel.

Jacobs opened the boutique with Danish couple Marise and Nikolaj Østergaard, who are also partners in the company’s Copenhagen Marc by Marc Jacobs unit.

“We have searched for a perfect loca-tion for about a year and a half and we finally found this one in the Bibliotekstan district,” Duffy, who serves as Marc Jacobs’ president, said. “Our store in Copenhagen has had great success, so Stockholm will without a doubt be one as well.”

Duffy traveled to Stockholm for last Wednesday’s opening party, which at-tracted a slew of local celebrities and socialites including singer Lykke Li, The Hives front man Pelle Almqvist and local television personalities Elin Kling and Ebba von Sydow. Estonian model Carmen Kass was also on hand for the opening, and Duffy brought along his friend, photographer Brian Bowen Smith, who signed copies of his book, “The Men and Women of Marc Jacobs.”

Stockholm brings Jacobs’ number of stores to 226, having recently opened Marc by Marc

Jacobs stores in Milan, Lisbon, London, Madrid, Paris and Athens. Sweden left quite an impres-sion on Duffy.

“Swedish people are quite fashion-forward and beautiful,” Duffy said. “They will definitely do the brand justice.”

— Marc Karimzadeh

PARIS — It may be women’s fashion week here, but the Dries Van Noten man is claiming some of the spotlight.

The Belgian design house, which presents its women’s col-lection this afternoon, also opened its first men’s-only store at 9 Quai Malaquais, a few doors down from its women’s boutique.

Facing the Seine River on Paris’ left bank and set in a for-mer art gallery, the 1,076-square-foot shop’s interior boasts the gallery’s original Seventies rust-colored lacquered paneling, while furniture and design objects from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries, handpicked by the designer, add to the rich vintage feel.

To mark the occasion, Dries Van Noten unveiled his debut evening collection for guys, called Line 9. Sold exclusively at the Paris store, the collection boasts tuxedo jackets and trousers, silky tops and bottoms and a velvet dinner jacket (in a color re-sembling the shop’s fiery interior). A small one-of-a-kind acces-sories collection in a similar tone is also on sale.

Dries Van Noten now counts a total of four freestanding units: in Antwerp, Belgium; Tokyo, and Paris, which has two locations.

— Emilie MarshPH

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A view of the Dries Van Noten men’s store.

Interior and exterior views of the Marc by Marc Jacobs boutique in Stockholm.

Dries Van Noten Men’s Store Bows

Marc by Marc Jacobs Unit Opens in Sweden

For more information on attending or sponsoring, call 212.630.4803, email jessica_introna@condenast.com or log on to www.wwd.com/media/summits/apparel.

FRANÇOIS-HENRI PINAULT CHAIRMAN & CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

PPR

MICHAEL KORS HONORARY CHAIRMAN & PRINCIPAL DESIGNER

MICHAEL KORS (USA) INC.

MARISSA MAYERVICE PRESIDENT, SEARCH PRODUCTS & USER EXPERIENCE

GOOGLE INC.

DENISE INCANDELA PRESIDENT, SAKS DIRECT, & GROUP SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT

SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

DICK COSTOLOCHIEF OPERATING OFFICER

TWITTER INC.

KENNETH COLE CHAIRMAN & CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER

KENNETH COLE PRODUCTIONS

REED KRAKOFF PRESIDENT & EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR

COACH & REED KRAKOFF

KATHLEEN TAYLORCHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

FOUR SEASONS HOTELS LTD.

APPAREL & RETAILCEO SUMMIT

NOVEMBER 1+2 @ THE PLAZA, NEW YORK CITY

ADDITIONAL SPEAKERS INCLUDE:

RALPH LAUREN, Chairman & Chief Executive Offi cer, Polo Ralph Lauren Corp.

LEW FRANKFORT, Chairman & Chief Executive Offi cer, Coach Inc.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, Chief Executive Offi cer, Ermenegildo Zegna SpA

TERRY J. LUNDGREN, Chairman, President & Chief Executive Offi cer, Macy’s Inc.

TOMMY HILFIGER, Principal Designer & Visionary, Tommy Hilfi ger USA Inc.

SUKHINDER SINGH CASSIDY, Chief Executive Offi cer, Polyvore Inc.

CHRIS SANDERSON, Strategy & Insight Director, The Future Laboratory

JOHN DONAHOE, President & Chief Executive Offi cer, eBay Inc.

MICHAEL MCNAMARA, Vice President, MasterCard SpendingPulse

DENNIS CROWLEY, Co-Founder & Chief Executive Offi cer, Foursquare Labs Inc.

PIERS FAWKES, Founder & Chief Executive Offi cer, PSFK

SUSAN S. HART, Co-Leader, Global Retail, Apparel & Luxury Goods Practice, Spencer Stuart

JILL BERAUD, Chief Marketing Offi cer & President, Joint Ventures, PepsiCo Americas Beverages

MARY-KATE OLSEN AND ASHLEY OLSEN, Co-Presidents, Dualstar Entertainment Group

EDMOND JAY, Senior Vice President, Business Insights, American Express

HOWARD TUBIN, Director, Softlines Equity Research, RBC Capital Markets

RAYMOND W. KELLY, Police Commissioner, City of New York

JOHN F. MEGRUE JR., Chief Executive Offi cer, U.S., Apax Partners

JAKE NICKELL, Founder, Threadless

WWD.COMWWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 201010

Continued from page oneand the current needs of the brand. It’s a big and complicated business,” William L. McComb, chair-man and ceo of Liz Claiborne Inc., told WWD. Juicy, which spans young girls to adults, has a design team spread over two coasts, domestic and interna-tional distribution, and a wholesale and retail net-work. The brand generates more than $1 billion in retail sales, including more than a dozen licensees, said McComb.

Nealz, who will split her time between Los Angeles and New York, will oversee design for both Juicy Couture, which caters to women 18 to 34 years old, and the more upscale Bird by Juicy Couture, which is aimed at women 25 to 45 years old. McComb hasn’t ruled out the idea of bringing in more guest designers from time to time to design “very small, in-teresting capsules.”

“We love the work Erin has done,” said McComb. “LeAnn loves the idea of guest designers of the business. Different voices and ideas from different ends of the spectrum can be very good.”

Nealz, who will begin in the next 30 days, wasn’t available for a telephone interview, but said via e-mail, “I’m very honored to be stepping into this role that will allow me to work with Edgar and the team, to take this innova-tive brand to the next level.”

She said, “Juicy Couture rev-olutionized how women dressed when they blurred the lines between casual and couture. Now, we have the opportunity to build on this powerful DNA and to modernize and elevate the brand, in order to write the new chapter and to connect with Juicy’s loyal follow-ing globally.”

Nealz’s résumé includes some of the top brands in the apparel industry. Prior to joining American Eagle four years ago, she was senior vice presi-dent of design at GapKids and babyGap, and be-fore that was a consultant to Esprit. She has also been vice president, creative director of Nine West Group Inc.; a designer in the early days at Theory, and women’s and men’s senior design director at Banana Republic. She began her career in Los Angeles as a stylist working with a number of fash-ion brands, including Calvin Klein. She met Calvin Klein when she began styling his jeans’ ad cam-paigns and ultimately became design director for ck jeans and Calvin Klein Sport.

“LeAnn has shown extraordinary range throughout her career. From the designer world to vertical retailing, from apparel to accessories, from adults to children, she has demonstrated time and again her innate ability to balance de-sign ideals with commercial, wearable product,”

said Huber. “She will modernize and innovate the brand for the future. She’s also a great manager.”

“She will impact the back half of next year,” added McComb. The search was handled by execu-tive recruiter Karen Harvey.

Known for its wit, bold colors and imaginative in-store presentations, Juicy Couture has branched out beyond contemporary sportswear to children’s wear, fragrances, accessories, handbags, sleepwear, footwear and jewelry. During the past few seasons, Juicy Couture’s wholesale business has struggled as the line failed to move beyond its iconic tracksuit and needed to be reenergized. The collection also suffered from both quality and fit problems, became highly promotional, and exited many of its whole-

sale doors. “As we were growing the fashion side of Juicy in our own retail stores, department stores only carried the tracksuit. We made the decision not to play ball and be in every door,” said McComb.

The company has had greater success with its retail model, and this month took its e-commerce site in-house, which is expect-ed to become its largest door. Previously, e-commerce was han-dled through Neiman Marcus.

The company’s current strat-egy is to cultivate a healthy and stable, yet controlled wholesale business, to complement its di-rect-to-consumer business.

In an interview last month, Huber told WWD, “It’s very clear from a wholesale point of view that my strategy is to keep it profitable. We’re not opening a lot of whole-

sale doors. Rather, the company continues to open 10 to 20 retail doors a year…” Juicy has 100 of its own free-standing stores, 11 of which carry the Bird line.

Nealz is leaving American Eagle at a time when the teen specialty retailer is facing its share of challenges. Last month, AEO said it would close 50 to 100 stores in the next two to five years as it reported that second-quarter net in-come fell 66.2 percent after taking markdowns to clear an aggressive position in tops, and shutting 28 Martin + Osa stores.

As for Nealz’s successor, an AEO spokeswom-an said, “We are not replacing her position in the short-term. Roger Markfield [chairman] will take over her duties immediately, as he has been playing a major role in design since he came back aboard. Further, we have diligently built a very strong team under LeAnn, and are confident that they can con-tinue on seamlessly. We believe that Roger work-ing directly with the design team will enable us to move more quickly and react to trends. Further, we have seen continuous improvements in our assort-ments as a result of the new design talent we have been adding over the last year.”

By David Lipke

MORE THAN A THOUSAND excitable tweens and teens — along with their patient chaperones — showed up to meet Selena Gomez at the 34th Street Kmart in New York last week. The Disney star was there to support her Dream Out Loud fash-ion line, which launched in nearly 1,400 Kmart stores in August. Gomez signed more than 600 autographs for fans, who were not required to make a purchase to meet her. Among the throngs was ac-tress Julianne Moore, there with her daughter Liv Moore, an enthusiastic Gomez fan.

“It’s crazy and so great. All of my hard work has truly paid off, and I feel so happy,” said Gomez, 18, of seeing the clothes in stores. “I’ve always wanted to do a line. It was about finding the right company to partner up with, and I think Kmart truly got what I wanted to do with my fans. I didn’t just want to slap my name on it. I wanted it to be real clothes that real people could wear. My mom wears some of my shirts. I wanted to make a really good-quality cloth-ing line, and I think Kmart really understood that.”

Robin Creen, chief marketing officer for Kmart Apparel said the Dream Out Loud launch has exceeded expectations. “It has been our number-one brand in juniors. It’s blowing through and exceeding plan,” she noted.

Dream Out Loud footwear will ship to Kmart stores in October, and jewelry will be added in November, added Tony Melillo, creative director for the line. Melillo is also a partner in Cynosure Holdings, a branding company that holds the master li-cense for Dream Out Loud in a joint venture with Adjmi Apparel.

According to sources, the brand is on track to ring up more than $100 million in retail sales in its first year at Kmart.

Gomez — who is leaving the Disney show “Wizards of Waverly Place” after this season to focus on her burgeoning music and movie career — was fresh off appearing on “Good Morning America” earlier in the day. She sang two of her hit songs, “Round and Round” and “A Year Without Rain,” on the ABC morning program.

Next year will see the release of Gomez’s “Monte Carlo” movie, which follows up her co-starring role in “Ramona and Beezus” earlier this year.

Fellow singer Jessica Simpson’s fashion ventures are one inspiration for Gomez. “When it comes to daily wear, I love Jessica Simpson. She kind of has the same vibe of making really great clothes that she knows her fans will really love,” she explained.

When it comes to high fashion, Gomez singled out Marchesa and Christian Cota as her favorite designers. “I just love Marchesa’s clothes so much. I would love to meet them. I would freak out. And I love Christian Cota. Those are my favorites,” she said.

MEMO PADBy Evan Clark

THE TOUGH BUSINESS ENVIRONMENT AND STRAINED job market last month undermined consumer confidence, which fell to its lowest level since February.

The Conference Board’s Consumer Confidence Index re-treated to 48.5 from 53.2 in August. The measure of consumer well-being stood at 51 in July and 54.3 in June.

“September’s pullback in confidence was due to less fa-vorable business and labor market conditions, coupled with a more pessimistic short-term outlook,” said Lynn Franco, director of the research group’s Consumer Research Center. “Overall, consumers’ confidence in the state of the economy remains quite grim. And, with so few expecting conditions to improve in the near term, the pace of economic growth is not likely to pick up in the coming months.”

Both of the index’s components fell, with the Present Situation Index dropping to 23.1 from 24.9 and the Expectations Index declining to 65.4 from 72. The indexes are based on a survey of 5,000 U.S. households.

People are feeling worse about the current environment, with 46.1 percent of the survey’s respondents rating business conditions as “bad,” up from 42.3 percent last month.

Meanwhile, consultancy Kantar Retail predicted fourth-quarter sales, outside of the auto, food and drug channels, would rise 2.5 percent from a year earlier. That would be a boost from the 0.5 percent growth in the fourth quarter last year, but Kantar said holiday sales would still feel weak com-pared with the relatively strong start to 2010.

“Prices and uncertainty will weigh heavily on the holi-day outlook,” said Frank Badillo, senior economist at Kantar. “Ongoing price competition among retailers, led by Wal-Mart, is more likely to take a toll on sales gains than boost unit demand among shoppers who remain value conscious.”

Juicy Taps LeAnn Nealz as Creative Head Gomez Draws Crowd at Kmart

Confidence Slips in September

GOING AFTER THE KIDS: Lucky has found one way to bump up its numbers — target that one area where adults can’t say “no”: their kids. The magazine will launch three issues of Lucky Kids next year — in April, September and December — and the title is said to be exploring more special interest publication ideas, such as a shelter onsert. “It’s only Brandon’s [Holley] second week,” said a spokeswoman of the incoming editor in chief. “There have been talks about various SIP’s but nothing has been decided.” When Lucky Kids is published next year, it will be polybagged to 300,000 subscribers and 50,000 copies, at $4.99 a pop, and will be available on newsstands for three to four months. — Amy Wicks

TALK, TALK: Norma Kamali is adding talk show queen to her extensive résumé, but don’t think she is gunning to replace Oprah Winfrey. This Thursday, Kamali is kicking off “Conversations,” one-on-one video chats with fitness, health, beauty and nutrition authors and experts, including Joe Cross, Abdi Assadi, Horst Rechelbacher, Nancy Shaw, Twyla Tharp and vegan and raw food icon Chef Matteo. “I have always been involved with wellness, and I love finding solutions to problems that we have living on this new planet that is quite different from the planet I was born on,” Kamali said. “It’s not this guru-y, Zen presentation. It’s more hard-core, practical solutions. You can go home with them and say, ‘I can try that.’”

The digital Webisodes, which Kamali will introduce at an event at the Museum of Modern Art on Thursday, will be available for viewing on such online networks as Hulu.com, Blip.tv, GlamTV, iTunes, Chic.TV and YouTube, as well as normakamali.com.

Kamali has long been a wellness proponent, operating a Wellness Café at her 11 West 56th Street store, where she also sells various types of olive oil and olive oil-based products. The tech-savvy designer has no plans, however, to shop her program to a network, at least not for the time being. “There is so much to do in the Internet that it

could be powerful on its own,” she said. “Virally, it has potential.” — Marc Karimzadeh

CLARIFICATION: In response to a Memo Pad item on page 10, Tuesday, a spokeswoman for the Koch family said it did not reach out to New York magazine. The spokeswoman also said the New York piece was in the works for weeks before The New Yorker’s story about the family.

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WWD.COMWWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 2010 11

FASHION SCOOPSLIZA’S AT THE ROSE BAR: Nur Khan hosted a mini-concert by Liza Minnelli as part of the ongoing Rose Bar Sessions at the G Park Hotel on Monday evening. Among the crowd at the intimate cabaret session were Mary Louise Parker with new boyfriend Charlie Mars, Sandra Bernhard with her girlfriend, Tony Danza fresh off an appearance on “Oprah,” Alan Cumming, and the legendary John Kander, who composed the music for Minnelli’s star-making role in “Cabaret.” The redoubtable star warbled six songs from her just-released album, “Confessions.” “Have you ever seen so much retouching,” asked Minnelli in the spirit of that title, holding up her massively airbrushed portrait on the CD.

CAVALLI’S CAVALCADE: Roberto Cavalli is going all out to make sure his 40th anniversary gala dinner and party at L’Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts in Paris will be an event to remember. Indeed, the evening is shaping up as a celebrity-packed event with 800 guests. Among those expected are Orlando Bloom and Miranda Kerr, Aishwarya Rai, Clotilde Coureau, Bianca and Jade Jagger, Mary J. Blige, Sting and Trudie Styler, Janet Jackson, Rachel Bilson, Tyra Banks, Kanye West, Taylor Swift, Daphne Guinness, Jenson Button and Craig David. A battalion of models, from Laetitia Casta and Natalia Vodianova to Naomi Campbell, Lara Stone and Jasmine and Amber Le Bon are also expected to attend. Following the dinner, there will be a “Crazy Horse” performance and, according to sources, Kylie Minogue is expected to sing. And to heat things up, DJ David Guetta and Akon will perform “Sexy Bitch.” Let the dancing begin.

HARVARD HONORS TRAUB: Former Bloomingdale’s chairman Marvin Traub, who established a second career as an industry dealmaker and consultant, today receives the Alumni Achievement Award from the Harvard Business School, from which he graduated in 1949. Though no stranger to awards, Traub said, “This is sort of different. A good deal of the thinking behind this is the importance the business school places on developing second careers. I am an enormous believer in second opportunities.” The day includes a reception, a panel and then a dinner. “I will be in good company,” Traub said, citing James Dimon of J.P. Morgan; astronaut James Lovell of Apollo 13; Susan Decker, the longtime Yahoo senior executive, and Allan Gray of the South African investment management firm as the other honorees.

IN THE BAG: You can never have too many bags, as 60 women proved Thursday afternoon when they joined Muffie Potter Aston on the fourth floor of Tiffany’s to celebrate John Truex and Richard Lambertson and their new accessories line for the brand, Tiffany Leather Collection. Toting their own Chanel, Hermès and Louis Vuitton purses, guests like Susan Fales-Hill, Kimberly Rockefeller, Cece Cord, Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos, Debbie Bancroft and Jennifer Creel admired the selection of clutches, hobos, minaudières and satchels, before heading up to the store’s fifth floor for a lunch catered by Daniel Boulud. And it was apparently rather hard to drag them away from the array.

“Getting this group seated, [I thought] it’s gonna be dinner by the time we make it,” said Aston, addressing the crowd, whose attendance rate had been a source of concern for her. “I thought I would be the loser who had a lunch and nobody would come.”

Far from it as the group not known for their culinary appetites happily dug into a meal

of chilled corn soup, roasted guinea hen and a chocolate hazelnut dessert.

Boulud made an appearance, kidding, “I just wanted to announce that I’ve been hired by Tiffany,” adding that the house had made a donation to his pet cause the Bocuse d’Or chef competition.

MR. DICK: Iman is nothing if not polite, as evidenced by her first sitting for Richard Avedon more than 20 years ago. “Seeing as I just came from Africa, I didn’t want to be presumptuous that I was a friend. When I got on the set, I said, ‘Should I smile or not Mr. Dick?’” the supermodel recalled during a dinner at Christie’s on Thursday night, co-hosted by Iman, Allison Sarofim and Lanvin and celebrating the house’s auction of Avedon’s work. “He said, ‘OK, stop everything. I know you just came from Africa. You can call me Dick or Mr. Avedon, but never Mr. Dick.’” The collection of 65 photos will be on view at Christie’s New York from October 1 through 6. They will be sold at Christie’s Paris on Nov. 20.

REED ALERT: Chalk it up to his Coach experience, but Reed Krakoff, who just launched his namesake brand and opened a boutique on Madison Avenue, knows how to get a good crowd for an in-store party. On Thursday, Krakoff celebrated the Director’s Council of the Museum of the City of New York at his store, as the brand is sponsoring the group’s New York After Dark gala on Oct.13. Among those in the crowd were Tara Rockefeller, Jennifer Creel, Muffie Potter Aston, Zani

Gugelmann, Gigi Mortimer, Daisy Olarte de Kanavos and Allison Rockefeller. Only those who came on the early side of the night were able to catch up with the designer himself. Krakoff and his wife Delphine left their own party just as it was kicking into high gear.

ALL GREEK TO ME: Kylie Minogue, whose “Aphrodite-Les Folies” tour kicks off in Europe next February, said after the Emilio Pucci show that she’s still working out her stage wardrobe, but noted her eye was caught by the billowing dresses and the blue-and-white palette reminiscent of Cycladic architecture. “Very Aphrodite-esque,” she purred.

BEACH BOYS: The presence at the Just Cavalli show of Antonio Bianchi, owner of Albisetti, may not be unusual, as the Italian innerwear and beachwear manufacturer holds a license with the brand. However, according to sources, Albisetti appears to be finalizing the acquisition of Ittierre SpA, Just Cavalli’s apparel licensee that is under bankruptcy protection. “It’s a fantastic and unique opportunity,” said Bianchi. “I’ve been mulling to buy Ittierre for a very long time.” Bianchi said his 33-year old company, which is based near Como, holds 12 licenses with such brands as John Galliano, Burberry, Chloé and Vivienne Westwood. “Think of the synergies there are and how we can build both companies,” he said.

CLAUDIA’S CASHMERE: Claudia Schiffer’s upcoming fashion venture will be a cashmere line with a label based in her native Germany. The model has entered into a joint venture partnership with the German cashmere brand Iris von Arnim to design a collection of cashmere pieces for fall. The capsule line — which is intended to be an ongoing collection — will be called Claudia Schiffer, and the model will act as creative director. Schiffer said: “I have been looking for the right partnership for a very long time and I feel very lucky to have found it with IvA,” she said. “We have the same inherent values and I was delighted to find a company to interpret my vision.” Iris von Arnim added, “Claudia is a global fashion icon and a woman with impeccable taste who has a strong vision, and knows exactly what she wants for her line,” she said.

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Liza Minnelli at Rose Bar Monday night.

Kylie Minogue

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Full service shop to the trade.Fine fast work. 212-869-2699

SEEKING FINANCINGEstablished better women’s updated/contemporary branded sportswear lineseeks financial backing/partner. Email

myclothingline@aol.com

SEEKING INVESTORS/PARTNERSNew edgy/forward contemporary

brand seeks strategic partners &/or in-vestors for men’s/women’s collections.Plan avail. Contact Davis 212.675.8139

QUALITY CONTROLWell known Special Occasion DressMfr with locations in NY/NJ seekingexp Quality Control Person to imple-ment procedures and ensure thatstandards are met on all factory-shipped products. Tech expertise inwomen’s apparel garment specs; Bi-lingual (Chinese preferred); Min 5years experience required. Fax Re-sume to 212-302-9325

TECHNICAL DESIGNEROuterwear -Freelance. Experience inIllustrator/Photoshop, specs, techpacks, fitting & sample comments.Creative, detailed, organized, and agood communicator.

Send resume to hr@pretalobue.com

TREND RESEARCHPROFESSIONAL

Est’d fashionable overseas mfr seeksan individual with a design back-ground. Should be exp’d in all sweat-ers – jr, contemp, missy and mens.NY based with a lot of travel. Musthave excellent presentation skills andenthusiasm. Also need to have fore-casting vision and research abilities.Technical knowledge, photoshop anddeep u/standing of sweaters is key.Design degree in knitwear is a plus.Pls email your CV including excerptsfm your portfolio to: Yarnworks@aol.com

PRESIDENT OF SALESEstablished jr./plus denim/knit mfg.group looking for experienced sales topromote business. Must have relation-ship with stores, buyers and manage-ments. Excellent prospect. Salary pluscommission. Send resumes to email:

missjuligroup@aol.com

SALES/MDSERSeeking exp. indiv. for updated woventops. Must have good connection todept. & chain stores, and be able towork with designers to mdse the line.

Pls fax resume to 212-768-7973 ore-mail francine@mapssy.com

SALESPERSONAn Established Sportswear Company(Junior & Junior Plus) doing Tops,Casual and Sweater Dresses, Skirts &Jackets Seeks Energetic Salespersonhaving established relationships withmajor Speciality chain stores and whocan Guarantee Minimum 5 MillionDollar Sales In A Year. Please fax yourResume @ 212-398-2579 or email at:

hr.shescool@gmail.com

A SLIGHTLY SLEEPY CROWD CAME OUT FOR AMFAR’S SECOND MILAN EVENT AT ART space La Permanente on Tuesday evening — it was the tail end of fashion week there after all. At least Roberto Cavalli managed to sneak in some nap time after his show earlier in the day.

“I feel light and relaxed now,” said the designer, who will ring in his 40th anniversary with a celebratory bash in Paris later this week. Cavalli was joined by event co-chair Heidi Klum, Dean and Dan Caten of Dsquared2, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi

with Gianfranco Ferré’s chief executive offi cer Michela Piva, Francesca Versace, John Richmond, Leona Lewis, models Alessandra Ambrosio, Erin Wasson, Chanel Iman and

Victoria Silvstedt, and actresses Caterina Balivo, Jeanene Fox and Sarah Felberbaum for the glam dinner. Cheyenne Jackson kicked off the auction with a special performance, before Cavalli lost out on a signed Bert Stern photograph of Marilyn Monroe that went for 42,000 euros (or about $56,000), while Diego Della Valle failed to snag a portrait session with Italian photographer Giovanni Gastel, selling for 50,000 euros (or around $67,000.) Other lots included a Louis Vuitton Vanity Case designed by Sharon Stone.

And co-chair Diane von Furstenberg was so surprised that her customized Mini Cooper by DVF raised 80,000 euros (around $108,000) that she offered to ride shotgun with the winning bidder.

“I’ll drive with you,” von Furstenberg cried out from the podium to the competing bidders. • • •

The energy buzzing through the Metropolitan Opera House Monday night for the season’s Opening Night Gala was enough to get even jaded New Yorkers and celebrities giddy.

Credit was due to the evening’s program, the Met’s fi rst new production in 20 years of Wagner’s “Ring” cycle, beginning with “Das Rheingold.” Produced by Robert Lepage of Cirque du Soleil fame, the opera is one of the most expensive (the set was rumored to have cost $16 million) and elaborate the Met has ever undertaken.

A mix of neophytes and opera-philes, like gala committee chair Mercedes Bass, Barbara Walters, Meg Ryan, Miranda Richardson (who fl ew in from London for the occasion), Christine Baranksi, Patricia Clarkson, Anjelica Huston, Patrick Stewart, Kerry Washington, Rufus Wainwright, Julie Macklowe, David Koch and gala chairman Ann Ziff (who bankrolled the entire new “Ring” cycle) fl ocked in for early cocktails before the two-and-a-half-hour, no intermission “Das Rheingold.”

A very pregnant Vera Farmiga arrived with husband Renn Hawkey and shrugged off her condition as an opera deterrent.

“You know, you’ve got to pass the time, but this is an extraordinary way to do it,” she said.

And Holly Hunter, a frequent operagoer, promised to be on good behavior regardless of how the show went.

“I never boo. Only [applaud]. I leave the booing to the French,” she smiled.There must have been a few France natives in the audience, for when the cast

and conductor James Levine took their bows, it was to a mix of standing ovation and audible booing.

At the dinner that followed, the Metropolitan Opera’s general manager Peter Gelb defended his choices.

“You may wonder why we took the risk of this extraordinary new production. It’s because we believe the vitality of our art form relies on pushing the boundaries of theatrical invention,” he said, adding of early rumors that the intricate stage was treacherous for the performers. “Contrary to news reports no Rhinemaidens were ever in danger.”

Over at Monkey Bar, anyone in New York who could pronounce the name of Thai fi lmmaker Apichatpong Weerasethakul, plus several men and women who couldn’t, gathered for a dinner honoring the director, whose award-winning “Uncle Boonmee Who Can Recall His Past Lives” recently screened as part of the New York Film Festival. The evening was hosted by longtime Weerasethakul fans Francesco Vezzoli, artist Rirkrit Tiravanija, Black Frame’s Brian Phillips, designer-slash-lawyer Chomwan Weeraworawit and Tilda Swinton and Marc Jacobs (neither of whom attended).

The movie, which won the Palme d’Or in Cannes, is a trippy story about spiritualism and reincarnation told through characters such as a deceased son who comes back as a “ghost monkey” and a princess who is seduced by a catfi sh.

But most people in the room, including David Byrne and Greta Gerwig, were fi rst introduced to Weerasethakul’s work with his 2004 psychological drama “Tropical Malady.”

“I fi nd his fi lms kind of hypnotic and very emotional,” Gerwig said. “I think I enjoy how much I kind of don’t understand about it, it’s exciting for something to be so oblique and hard to access.”

Weerasethakul admitted the turnout was a little intimidating. “My movie is about jungle, it’s about nature,” he said. “And for me, this is another kind of jungle, and I really need to get used to this jungle.”

WWD.COM12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 2010

HIGH NOTES

For more images, see WWD.com/eyescoop.For more images, see WWD.com/eyescoop.

! Heidi Klum in Roberto Cavalli with the designer and Diane von Furstenberg; Mercedes Bass; Renn Hawkey and wife Vera Farmiga in Marchesa.

! Holly Hunter in Vera Wang; Barbara Walters and Barry Diller.

! Apichatpong Weerasethakul in Marc Jacobs with David Byrne in Adam Kimmel and Cindy Sherman.

! Leona Lewis in Roberto Cavalli; Shala Monroque and Francesco Vezzoli.! Meg Ryan in Giorgio Armani.

! Alessandra Ambrosio in Dolce & Gabbana.

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