WWB MAGAZINE JUNE ISSUE 238

—SECRETS OF THE TRADEExclusive interview with Nishand Sach Kukadia of Secret Sales—

—BUILDING A LEGACYHow Joseph Ribkoff is laying thefoundations for future growth—

—EXHIBITION CALENDARThe shows not to miss forspring/summer 2015 —

—STYLE SCOOPA look at the key labels exhibitingat next month’s event—

JUNE 2014, ISSUE 238£6.95—WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

WOMENSWEARBUYER

Apt Collections Ltd · T 0207 580 3202

wwb238 Main Document 06/06/2014 11:48 Page 2


HAUBER Showroom · Diane Sykes · 56 Wells Street · W1T 3PT London Phone: +44/207/323 6100 (direct call 6102) · Fax: +44/207/323 6109 · E-Mail: [email protected] · www.hauber.de

S C O O P L O N D O N

I N T E R N A T I O N A L F A S H I O N S H O W

13 . – 1 5 . J U L Y 2 0 1 4

P A N O R A M A B E R L I N

F A S H I O N W E E K B E R L I N

0 8 . – 1 0 . J U L Y 2 0 1 4

C P D D Ü S S E L D O R F

K A I S E R S W E R T H E R S T R A S S E 1 8 3 A

2 6 . – 2 8 . J U L Y 2 0 1 4

05WOMENSWEAR BUYER—JUNE 2014

CONTENTS—

REGULARS

7EDITOR’S COMMENT

—8

NEWS—14

BACKSTAGEThe other side of womenswear

—16

TALKING POINT—58

RETAIL FORUMThe latest news from the industry

—62

UP CLOSE AND PERSONALWith Alex Monroe

—

FASHION

28STYLE FILE

30FASHION RADAR

45SCOOP INTERNATIONAL

WWB’s comprehensive preview of the show

54BREAD & BUTTER BERLINThe brands to watch at next

month’s event

56LONDON SWIMWEAR SHOWShining the spotlight on some ofthe best labels at the exhibition

FEATURES

18Q&A

With Secret Sales’ Nish and Sach Kukadia

32TOMORROW’S WORLD TODAYHighlights from the Bira High

Street Conference

35FASHIONING THE FUTURE

How Joseph Ribkoff wants to double its UK business

40EXHIBITION CALENDAR

An overview of the most important summer shows

—FRONT COVER:

PYRUS—



COMMENT—

LAST MONTH I ATTENDED BIRA’S ANNUAL HIGH STREETCONFERENCE, AND AS ALWAYS,THE DISCUSSIONS ABOUT THEFUTURE OF (INDEPENDENT)RETAILING OFFERED LOTS OFFOOD FOR THOUGHT. —

Among the speakers was retail veteran BillGrimsey, who last year took on Mary Portasand her high street report with his – equally ascontroversial – Grimsey Review. In hispresentation, he looked back at the keyinnovations of the last 45 years that havechanged the structure of the retail industryand pointed out lessons that can be learnedfrom past mistakes, as well as highlighted the impact of new technologies on the sector. He painted an optimistic picture of the retail industry, saying that “the futurehas never been more exciting”, however only if we are willing to adapt to change and a new retail landscape. This was asentiment that ran throughout the day –we must embrace and adapt to change andcreate our own opportunities; the parametersmay be changing, but there is still a lot ofscope for success.

Another comment that stuck with mewas that he wants to ban the word “customerservice” from the dictionary, and replace itwith “customer experience”. With that, Ithought he had hit the nail on the head.Customer service may be a crucial part of theoverall “experience”, however it is not onlyincreasingly more multi-faceted than that, butalso increasingly more about a multi-channeland multi-sensory “experience”.

This thought process was developed

further by Martijn Bertisen, senior industryhead for retail at Google UK, whodemonstrated the new technologies that arecoming through and will inevitably permeateretailing in the future. If you, like me, wereamong those who thought Google Glass was asilly gimmick, well, we will have to eat ourwords, as this – and other digital innovations –are becoming a real part of the shoppingprocess, with Google Glass making its way intofirst retail chains at the end of the year, used“to enhance the physical in-store experience,”as Bertisen explained. If you are interested tofind out more, we have summed up all thefindings from the day on page 32.

As always, don’t hesitate to get in touchand share your views by emailing me ortweeting @wwbmagazine or leaving acomment on our Facebook page.

Isabella Griffiths, editor

EditorIsabella [email protected] —ContributorsVictoria [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]—Sub editorAmanda [email protected]—Editorial assistantRebecca [email protected]—Design & productionMichael [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]—SalesSam [email protected]—SubscriptionsLaura [email protected]—Production directorGill [email protected]—Portfolio directorNick [email protected]—Marketing directorStephanie [email protected]—Managing directorColette [email protected]—Reprographics/printingImageData Group 01482 652323

—WWB is published 9 times per year byRAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall,Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 —Copyright © 2014 WWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of anywritten material or illustration in any formfor any purpose, other than short extracts forreview purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RASPublishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability forloss or damage to transparencies and any othermaterial submitted for publication.—

RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLCcompany A Buyer Series Fashion BusinessPublication WWB is a fashion business publicationproduced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titlesinclude MWB and CWB.

08womEnswEar buyEr—junE 2014

nEws—

minimum wagE woEsfor rEtailErs

Experts say increase in wage threshold will impact on already challengedemployers in the retail sector.

—

Retailers and industry experts have expressedconcern over proposals to potentially increasethe national minimum wage following nextyear’s general election. Labour leader EdMiliband revealed plans to increase theminimum wage over a five-year period in abid to bring UK earnings in line with thoseof our European counterparts.

However, retailers under pressurefrom mounting costs and challengingtrading conditions have reacted with disdainto the proposals.

“As a small business we cannotafford to pay above minimum wage, and araise in this would impact us greatly as ourbusiness model runs on an already stretchedbudget,” says Louise Schneider, co-owner anddirector at Leeds independent Accent. “Thereneeds to be more support from thegovernment for commercial enterprise and,while minimum wage is important toprotect employees, I don’t think it is right forpolitical parties to concentrate on upping thewage to increase disposable income. Theretail sector is absolutely under enoughpressure as it is.”

This is mirrored by Sarah Millet,owner of womenswear indie N Shelley inBillericay who, even though her businesspays above minimum wage, feels that it canput further pressure on many smallerbusinesses. “It doesn’t affect us directlybecause we pay our staff above minimum

wage,” she says. “However, smaller retailersmight struggle with the increase.

“We have 15 staff on payroll, but abusiness with one or two employees mightstruggle,” Millet continues. “It’s difficult toput the figures down, but salaries are usuallyone of the biggest outgoings. With theeconomy and other factors squeezing what isalready a tight budget for many indies, Ithink this can only add to the challenges theindustry is faced with.”

Michael Weedon, deputy CEO andcommunications director at the BritishIndependent Retailers Association, agreesthat mounting pressure on the retail sectorwill have a negative impact on the overallrecovery of the UK economy.

“In principle, anything thatpressurises the profitability of retailers willcause problems in the long-term,” he says.“Businesses are already in the process ofpension auto-enrolment, and anything elseout of line with improving the tradingeconomy can damage our long-termprospects. Proposals to link the nationalminimum wage with median earnings arevery interesting and theoretically could be agood thing, but it very much depends onhow it is implemented, and how far awayfrom median earnings the new minimumrate would be.”

Labour hasn’t yet divulged whatwould be implemented under the five-year

“I don’t think it is right forpolitical parties toconcentrate on uppingthe wage to increasedisposable income. The retail sector isabsolutely under enoughpressure as it is”

plan, but Miliband has vowed to set out exactfigures ahead of the general election thatwould aim to tackle the “scandal of the fivemillion people in work who cannot makeends meet.”

Having commissioned a report intolow pay – which found that retail accountsfor 21 per cent of all minimum wage jobs –the party has alluded to a differing pay scalebetween sectors, which would value certainskills above others. For those in the industry,however, such a proposal would open aproverbial can of worms and lead to an over-complicated and unjust system.

“I completely disagree with talksabout minimum wage for different sectors,”says Schneider. “If there was to ever be a split,a geographical spilt would make more sensedue to higher living costs in particular areas.”


nEws—

PEntland brands sCooPsbEst workPlaCE gongPentland Brands, the companybehind sports, outdoor andfashion labels such as Boxfresh,Speedo, Canterbury, Hunter andRed or Dead, has been voted asone of the UK’s top 10 BestWorkplaces 2014 in the BestLarger Company category, whichis awarded by the Great Place toWork Institute (GPTW). Thegroup is the only fashion brandowner to make the 2014 list, andis ranked higher than any otherretailer featured in thenominations. Best Workplaces2014 is selected based on anindependent GPTW employeesurvey and analysis of various aspects of theorganisational culture.

alVanon donatEstEChniCal fit toolAs part of its global fashion fitinitiative, apparel fit expertAlvanon has launched a fashionindustry support programme,entitled Fashion Fit Movement,which is set to help restoretechnical fashion skills andmanufacturing in New YorkCity, Europe and Hong Kong.Alvanon will donate technical fittools and consultancy services toselected apparel design andmanufacturing businesses thatare rebuilding their localproduction capabilities, and toindustry associations that supportlocal production efforts.

dannii minoguE inPartnErshiP with holstErDannii Minogue has teamed upwith Holster as officialambassador for its new Rockstarcollection, Rockstar Jelly.Holster’s latest jelly collection willsee Minogue – who also endorsedthe brand last year for its s/s 13collection – as the face of thecampaign. The Rockstar Jellyrange is available online viawww.holsteraustralia.co.uk.Holster will be showing its latestcollection at Moda, which takesplace at Birmingham NEC on 10-12 August.

VEldhoVEn grouP and olsEnto mErgE

Dutch fashion house Veldhoven Group andGerman brand Olsen have merged to create asingle Pan-European fashion house.

The move follows the group’s acquisition ofthe Olsen company late last year, whichintegrated Olsen to the Veldhoven Group’sportfolio or brands, including Sandwich,Turnover and DEPT, which are all pitched atthe mid-segment of womenswear.

New global group headquarters willbe created in Zug, Switzerland, wheremanagement will set the central companyvision and strategy for its brands, as well asservicing them with shared operational andback office functions.

The design teams, however, willremain in the labels’ home markets which,for Olsen is Hamburg, and for Sandwich,Turnover, and DEPT remains Amsterdam.—

Cash usE down by 14 PEr CEntfrom 2009

The use of cash to pay for purchases hasdecreased by 14 per cent over the past fiveyears, as customers embrace convenient waysto pay for even the smallest of purchases.

Contactless technology – which allowscustomers to pay by credit or debit card fortransactions under £20 without typing in aPIN – has contributed to decreased cashusage, along with self-service checkouts andever-increasing online purchases.

The charges associated with digitalpayment, however, have impacted onretailers, as debit and credit card usagebecomes increasingly commonplace amongconsumers. With the average cost of processinga credit card transaction now standing at40.9p, the financial impact of a changingconsumer mentality when it comes to payingfor purchases cannot be underestimated.

Despite the increased popularity ofdebit and credit card payments, cash remainsthe dominant method of payment, with 53per cent of transactions still made in cash.—

sandwich


nEws—

sharEs in asos PlungEShares in Asos have plunged bymore than 40 per cent, followinga warning by the online retailerthat profits would be affected bychanging market conditions. Thewarning came as Asos cited ahigher number of pricepromotions and decreasingmargins across its brand portfolioas the reason for falling profits.The retailer now expects thatprofit margins for the currentfinancial year will be around 4.5 per cent, against previouspredictions of around 6.5 percent. Established in June 2000,Asos retails over 850 brands aswell as its own label acrossmenswear, womenswear,footwear, accessories and beauty.

timbErland oPEns manChEstEr showroomIconic footwear label Timberlandis set to open a new Northernshowroom in Manchester towardsthe end of June. Merchandisedwith the brand’s s/s 15 collection– across men’s, women’s andchildren’s apparel and footwear –the showroom is located in arefurbished Victorian warehouseon 20 Dale Street. Aimed atTimberland’s Northern accounts,the opening of the showroom is thelatest development in the label’sdrive in the UK wholesale market.

QuidCo ExPands ontohigh strEEtCashback reward platformQuidco has introduced a card-linked offer, designed toengage customers on the highstreet and drive footfall backtowards bricks-and-mortarstores. The platform, whichpreviously offered registered userscashback in return for visitingonline retail partners via theQuidco portal, allows users toregister a credit or debit cardonline, and gain their rewardswhen shopping on the high street.Quidco currently works with4,000 retailers nationwide,including womenswear retailersDarling and Ollie & Nic,multiples Debenhams, Next, Asos, House of Fraser and M&S and Middlesbroughindependent Psyche.

nEw dirECtion forgErard darEl

Premium womenswear label Gerard Darelwill redefine its offer as of s/s 15, followingthe appointment of Brigitte Comazzi Duvalas its creative director.

Formerly of Comptoir des Cotonniers andTara Jarmon, Comazzi Duval will present thebrand’s first-ever collection without a muse,concentrating instead on bringing its corestyle hallmarks up-to-date.

“While preserving Gerard Darel’sspirit and strong mix between modernityand tradition, I wish to renew the image ofthe brand by bringing more femininity,more audacity and more freshness,” she says.“It is important for me to find in thecollections a contemporary spirit directed atall the generations that is also more fun andless austere.”

The UK will be a particular focus forthe group as the brand redefines its businessstrategy. “The English market is our secondlargest market after France,” says wholesaledirector Jean Moussa. “Our strategy is to focuson the development within Britishdepartment stores and take advantage of theopening of the new boutiques.”—

rEtailErs unConVinCEd byimPaCt of soCial mEdia

Two thirds of retailers are yet to see any“direct business benefits” as a result ofembracing social media, according to asurvey carried out by e-commerce solutionsprovider ChannelAdvisor.

Most of those polled – 66 per cent – reportedthat they were interacting online withconsumers, but only a third reported a spikein customer engagement. Most of therespondents felt that there was no impact on sales as a result of platforms such asFacebook and Twitter.

“It’s great to hear that online retailersare embracing social media, but the surveyresults suggest that some are finding itdifficult to see tangible results from theirefforts,” says Zoe Ripley, ChannelAdvisor’smarketing director of EMEA. “Keepingcustomers engaged requires time as well as aneffective social media strategy, targeted notjust towards Facebook, Twitter and Pinterestusers, but to a brand’s general consumers.”—


nEws—

andrino aCQuirEs riValbrandallEyFrench group Andrino, owner ofonline store Private Outlet, hasannounced the acquisition ofrival BrandAlley. The merger ofthe two sites is accompanied by arefinancing plan, estimated to beworth ¤12m, according to asource close to the matter. “At theend of the transaction,BrandAlley will be part of agroup with a critical massnecessary in the world of e-commerce,” says Marc Heller,president of BrandAlley.“Together with the refinancing,it will allow BrandAlley tocontinue its development byrelying on its strengths – a strongbrand, more than eight millionmembers and an offer that bringstogether industry leading brands, both new collections andprivate sales, while benefittingfrom synergies procured by thesize effect.”

miChEllE kEEgan tEams uPwith liPsyActress Michelle Keegan has madeher design debut with the launchof a collaboration collection withUK label Lipsy. The range, whichwill launch this autumn withinselected Lipsy stockists and thebrand’s 70 standalone stores, willfeature the label’s distinctivecontemporary handwriting withinfluences of Keegan’s ownwardrobe. The debut rangecomprises 30 key pieces includingjumpsuits, playsuits and blouses.

onlinE salEs uP11.2 PEr CEntOnline sales of non-food productswere up 11.2 per cent throughoutthe month of April on a like-for-like basis with the sameperiod last year. Overall retailsales, meanwhile, were up 4.2 percent, indicating a healthyperformance across the sector. Theconcentrated growth of sales inthe e-commerce sector is a starkreminder to retailers that thepower of the online consumercannot be underestimated but,according to the British RetailConsortium, there is still a level of buoyancy when it comes tobricks-and-mortar shopping.

minimum PEnsionCommitmEnt for rEtailsECtor

Just five per cent of employers in the retailsector are contributing more than thelegislative minimum when it comes toworkplace pensions, according to researchcarried out by pension provider Now: Pensions.

While eight per cent of the small businessessurveyed pledged to contribute above andbeyond the legal minimum of one per cent,the retail sector cited the priority of keepingcosts low and difficult trading conditions asthe reasons for making the minimumcontribution as employers.

Employers in the financial andproperty sectors proved to be the mostgenerous, with 18 per cent pledging tocontribute more than one per cent to theiremployees’ pension schemes. They werefollowed by employers in the service andeducation sectors, of which 12 and nine percent respectively promised to contributemore than the legal minimum to staffpension plans.—

tEd bakEr arriVEs athEathrow

British fashion brand Ted Baker opened thedoors of its standalone Heathrow store earlierthis month, located within the new Queen’sTerminal development. Debuting with thebrand’s s/s 14 collection, the 731 sq ft shop will retail both men’s and women’s appareland accessories.

In a new direction for the label, the storeconcept has been designed in line with itssurroundings, featuring elements of a 50sairport waiting lounge. Customers arewelcomed into the premises by a rotatingglobe, reading Ted’s High Flyers, while thecash desk is lined with airline brochures fromthe 50s and a range of vintage-style cameras.

Heathrow’s new Terminal 2development opened earlier this month, butwill initially operate below its maximumcapacity. When the development reaches itsfinal stage of operation, however, it isexpected to be home to 256 airlines withmore than 330 flights a day. Other retailersopening within the development includeJohn Lewis.—

E-ZonE liVE dEbuts at moda

This season will see the introduction of newinteractive area E-Zone Live at Moda. Thededicated e-commerce feature will bringtogether seminars and advice as well as keyproducts and services in the form of a hub atthe UK’s largest trade fashion exhibition.

Launched in response to industry feedback and developments within theonline trading sector, E-Zone Live will guideretailers through the process of maximisingthe online potential of their business.Targeting both existing online retailers and those looking to take their first steps into e-commerce, the area will play host to a hand-picked selection of industry experts who will present a programme of free seminars.

E-Zone Live will be in operationthroughout the three days at Moda, which takes place at Birmingham’s NEC on 10-12 August.—

The great and the good from acrossthe lingerie and intimate apparelindustry descended on London’sDorchester hotel for the 54thContour Fashion Ball last month.Hosted by TV presenter and celebritystylist Mark Heyes (pictured), theevent raised more than £48kfor the Retail Trust and theFashion & Textile Children’sTrust. Among the guestswere tennis legendAnnabel Croft, retail mogulChristopher Wicks,entrepreneur Harold Tillman,as well as a host of companiesfrom across the lingerie andswimwear industry, including FashionForms, Invista, Next, TriumphInternational, Ultimo and New Look.—


PEoPlE—

BACKSTAGE

�

WOLFORD COMES TOMARYLEBONE

Austrian luxury label Wolford has opened anew store on London’s Marylebone HighStreet. The 45 sq m shop is the brand’sthird in the capital and carries the fullrange of ready-to-wear, hosiery, lingerie

and accessories.—

This summer, theFashion and TextileMuseum stages Made

in Mexico, the first exhibition on therebozo – the classicMexican shawl madefamous by artist

Frida Kahlo. It willtake place on

6 June – 31 August.

Online fashion retailer BrandAlley won acclaimand a much-coveted Bronze medal at this year’sRHS Chelsea Flower Show for its RenaissanceGarden. Designed by Paul Hervey-Brookes, thegarden was inspired by the romance and style of16th-century Italian gardens. The formal, elegantresult features clipped hedges, a rectangular stillpool, a loggia, sculpture and grotto waterfall. —

Contour fashionball raisEs £48kfor Charity

ukft awardstoast industrygrEatsA total of 13 awards across adiversity of categories werepresented to the winners of lastmonth’s NatWest UK Fashion &Textile Awards, which were hostedby TV presenter Susanna Reid andheld at East London’s Tobacco Dock.Dame Margaret Barbour washonoured with the OutstandingAchievement Award for herexceptional and long-standingcontribution to the fashionindustry. London label House ofHolland won the prestigious UKFTDesigner Award, while jewellerybrand Alex Monroe received theUKFT Accessories Award. Britishdesigner Margaret Howell,meanwhile, walked away with theUKFT Womenswear Brand Awardfor her contemporary collections. —

Bronze for BrandAlley

“

“The other side of womenswear

—

ConVErsEinsPirEs

—Converse has launched a

10-week community project inPeckham, South London,designed to inspire the nextgeneration of creative spiritsthrough music, art, style

and skate.—

dame margaret barbour (centre) withalison rose, CEo, commercial and privatebanking rbs, and host suzanna reid

jennifer saunders andhusband ade Edmondson inbrandalley’s award-winningrenaissance garden

Celebrity guests at the store launch

aving restructured its UK and Irelandoperation last season, with a newcontemporary Central London showroom oncontemporary Central London showroom oncontemporary Central London showroom on

Newman Street and the appointment of Rachel Wiles asNewman Street and the appointment of Rachel Wiles asNewman Street and the appointment of Rachel Wiles ascountry manager, Danish brand Bitte Kai Rand is goingcountry manager, Danish brand Bitte Kai Rand is goingcountry manager, Danish brand Bitte Kai Rand is goingfrom strength to strength, having grown its UK businessfrom strength to strength, having grown its UK businessfrom strength to strength, having grown its UK businessby over 40 per cent since last year.

It is undoubtedly the brand’s strong signaturestyle coupled with a commercial price structure – thathas been lowered for spring/summer 2015 to be morein line with the UK market – along with a personalsupport network for stockists that have accelerated therecent success of the label. “We’re working a lot closerwith our customers and are listening to their needs,”says Wiles. “We’ve had very successful sell-throughs,helping and exchanging goods where necessary, and this service hasbeen well received by our customers. It’s about working inpartnership with our stockists.”

Founded in 1981 by eponymous designer Bitte Kai Rand, thebrand is ranked among Denmark’s leading fashion houses, selling to15 countries and through 300 sales points worldwide. DistinctlyScandinavian and yet always displaying its own twist in cuts anddetails, Bitte Kai Rand is an exclusive design concept that aims toenhance a woman’s personality. A pure, timeless and cleanhandwriting is at the centre of this philosophy, always combiningflattering cuts with a high degree of functionality.

For spring/summer 2015, the brand has been inspired by astylistic Utopia, which has been the backdrop for the collection’sentire print universe. Viscose features the introduction of agraphical Check Metamorphosis, a check that changes shape andbecomes striped. Meanwhile, the softer version, Broken Mirror,depicts a mirror that has gone into a thousand pieces and reflectsfragments of a butterfly in an abundance of colours. Silk optionsfocus on a theme of Melted Porcelain, where pastels gently flowtogether and where Utopia is the moodboard repeated on the fabric.As always in a summer collection, linen in all its forms is a keyingredient, from tightly woven blends, represented in coats andcasual suits to the perfect dresses, while peached cotton with achequered quilted biased structure, delicate and transparent silk

WINNINGFORMULADanish brand Bitte Kai Rand is expanding itspresence in the UK market thanks to its design-ledcollections and strong focus on sell-through and customer support. The latest range forspring/summer 2015 is set to drive the impressivegrowth of the label further. —

georgette and sand-washed cupro and jersey qualities offerfurther versatility and style options.

Key pieces in the collection are centred around 50s-inspired dresses, narrow trousers and complementingjackets, which are predicted to be among this season’sbestsellers. The colour palette, meanwhile, offers a beautifulblend of pastel shades such as peach, lime, nude and orchid,accentuated by brighter shades such as Orient blue,cantaloupe and spearmint that light up and break theharmony in company with black and white graphic styles.

The collection is divided into eight commercialand colour coordinated delivery drops, ensuring thatthe in-store offer remains fresh and updated at all times,responding to retailers’ ever-growing need of newnessand innovation and helping to drive sales further.

The collection will make its debut at Scoop International thisseason, as well as showing at Premium Berlin, Ciff Copenhagen,Coterie New York and Stitch Las Vegas. For more information andsales enquiries call Rachel Wiles, country manager for UK & Ireland, on 07463 645670, email [email protected] or visitwww.bittekairand.com/uk. The showroom is located at 33 Newman Street, London W1T 1PY.

H


Promotion—

bitte kai rand with design assistant anemone skjoldager


oPinion—

building a futurE forthE indEPEndEnt markEtTen years ago the success of the independent sector was based oncohesion between the independent brands and independent retailersvalidating each other, both delivering something “exclusive”. Today,as an agent representing independent premium brands, the primarychallenge I face is how to build a sustainable and profitable businesswith our independent retail partners.

The landscape of the UK market has fundamentally changed. Welive in a world obsessed with big brands, big egos and big budgets.The success of a label is determined by celebrity endorsement,advertising spend, which department store you supply, flagships inprime locations – the list goes on. We also cannot ignore theemergence of the value sector, for example Primark, andproliferation of the high-street retailers, such as Zara, that havesqueezed the middle market.

The internet, in terms of competition, visibility and e-tailing, presents a new challenge, but also an opportunity forbrands to present themselves and for retailers to offer additionalservices. It is well known that the independent womenswear markethas shrunk. The British Independent Retailers Association notedthat 140 womenswear boutiques closed in 2013. This sounds bleak;however to me it represents an opportunity for the surviving andaspiring independent retailers and brands.

Recently I was given a tour of the set-up of one of my retailpartners which, in as little as five years, responded to the changinglandscape by developing a hugely successful e-tail and e-marketingplatform to complement its bricks-and-mortar boutiques for a long-term, sustainable multi-channel proposition. What an excitingbusiness; one that never stands still and looks to champion newbrands through every possible touch point.

As independent businesses, we have a chance to offersomething different; a sensory experience that is personal, engaging,visually enticing and informative. The brand can of course do moreto enhance its in-store presentation by providing distinctive POS, aswell as visual and product assets that can be used for localisedmarketing and social media.

Agents must consider the entire retail landscape and delivera strategic distribution plan that is balanced, sympathetic andsustainable. For the independent market to succeed, we need to havea collaborative approach to deliver the best outcome for both the brandand the retailer. More of the same is not enough and we need to bedelivering more than product on a rail to compete. There lies a veryexciting opportunity ahead to build a strong future.—

oPtimism Can bE fEltahEad of s/s 15There is a genuine feeling of optimism in the shops right now. Youcan feel it when doing promotions, and feedback from customers ispositive. It seems the general buzz is back and people are starting tospend money once again.

The tell-tale sign is the phone ringing for repeat orders, and this isso satisfying. There is nothing quite like helping a customer achieveyet another sale, edging the sell-through up another notch andsecuring your place in their product mix for next season.

I feel that the low period has passed and now, dare I say it,the fittest have survived, emerging from the dark times strongerand more savvy than ever. When I speak to Hauber customers, theyare expecting a lot more from the labels they buy from. Not just sell-through, but service, too. Hauber has always maintained a highcustomer service, offering unlimited swaps, great support withpromotions and so on, but I hear a lot more companies are steppingup, and that can only be a good thing. It makes both the retailer andwholesaler stronger, and by working closely together it strengthenstheir relationship for a long and mutually beneficial future.

Retail businesses have come out from the doldrums leanerand it appears more profitable than ever. The buyers I speak to aredefinitely more hopeful for the future, and their enthusiasm ispalpable, which is a joy. With wholesalers supporting the retailers, itmeans a few more risks can be taken and a little more fun can be had.

I’m excited by this, with s/s 15 approaching. Selling summercollections in summer has always been enjoyable, and hopefullywith more continued sunshine buyers will be coming intoshowrooms buoyed by their current successes and ready to build ontheir strong sales for next year. I know I’ve had a lot of new accountsbooking appointments to see Hauber’s spring offer, and it is reallyencouraging. Traditionally, summer is the longer season with sixglorious months to sell at full price.

I love the fact that retailers have more confidence to mixthings up a little and try new labels. Having checked for stylingcontinuity for a season or two, I find new accounts will always takethe leap in summer. It helps that the average prices are lower, too,stretching those budgets beautifully.

A lot of my Hauber customers take an early spring delivery.Spring – or transitional – can have a great, strong start from pre-Christmas in November. People holiday all year round nowadays,the month being no barrier at all to jetting off and grabbing a bit ofspontaneous sunshine. Get the weights and colours right andsummer can get off to a flying start – right in the middle of winter.—

Diane Sykes is sales director for Hauber UK Sofia Strazzanti is owner of wholesale and retail agency Innocenza

TALKING POINTKey industry players give their views on the issues that affect womenswear.

—

SA

AT

CH

I

GA

LL

ER

Y

&

PH

IL

LI

PS

,

LO

ND

ON

IMA

GE:

BRY

AN

HU

YNH

1 3 - 1 5 J U L Y 2 0 1 4

R e g i s t e r n o wscoop-international.com


intErViEw—

Q&A

—with £4.5m of new investment, brothers and founders of flash sales website secret sales

nish kukadia (left), and sach kukadia – CEo and buying director respectively – areaccelerating a business that saw 70 per cent net sales growth in 2013. tom bottomley

meets the entrepreneurs.—

Nish and Sach Kukadia, Secret Sales


INTERVIEW—

Tom Bottomley: What were yourbackgrounds before launching SecretSales in 2007?NISH KUKADIA: Our father PD Kukadia –he only goes by his initials –was a directorand shareholder of Pepe Jeans, so we grew upsurrounded by people who were working inthe industry, and we got very familiar withproduct. Sach was always into the product, Iwas not that comfortable with “fashion”. Iwas an introvert at school, whereas Sach wascaptain of the football, rugby and cricketteams. I went into advertising and wasobsessed by the industry. I wanted to work fora strategic agency, so I worked at WPP. Ispecialised in digital and really caught thebug for working on the web. I understoodhow to drive traffic and was doing that forSony Ericsson, Visa, Xerox and Microsoft. SACH KUKADIA: The opposite to Nish, Iwas enthusiastic about everything my fatherdid. So I attended all of the fashion showsand trade shows with him. I worked for myfather with Hardcore jeans – a spin-off fromPepe. I also worked for an import and exportcompany he started up. So I learnt thepricing structures for the UK marketthrough the experiences I gained with myfather, and also the selection process. We werebuying and selling stocks in Europe, andselling them into discount retailers in theUK. So when we came to starting thisbusiness we had a lot of insight in what weneeded to do. We had little money. Ourwebsite initially cost us £10,000 to start up.

TB: Where has the recent investment comefrom, and what do you intend to do with it?NK: The £4.5m investment has been led bytwo French funds – Partech International,through its new flagship Partech VI fund,and 123Venture, as well as existing investorsPentech and Doughty Hanson. We’ve got aformula on customer acquisition, and theinvestment will enable us to invest in newtechnology, analytics and data. It’s more thanjust capturing new customers, it’s aboutgetting under the skin of what the differentelements of exposure are that are influencingcustomers to buy.

TB: What level of sales does the websitegenerate?NK: We did £27.4m last year, but we’regrowing at a decent rate and this year we areso far exceeding our target. We should be ontrack to be around 40 per cent up on last year.

TB: What made you come up with thebusiness model in the first place?NK: The excess inventory market lacked a lotof innovation. We could see business modelstrying to tackle it in France, Germany andother European markets, but we know theUK market dynamics are very different. Sowe had to figure out a very specific band ofcategories and marketing channels, and a

four-day flash sale for brands?SK: The beauty is that you’re able to sell ahigh volume of stock over a short period.Because it’s only on for four days, you’regenerating an urgency from a customer’spoint of view. Brands can also sell their stockin a quiet environment that doesn’t cause thebrand any devaluation or jeopardise theirintegrity. And it doesn’t compromise otherretailers. Hence the name Secret Sales.

TB: How does it work with the brands?SK: As a business we are flexible, and we domake purchases if required. But our mainstrategy and focus is on the consignmentmodel, whereby brands reserve stock on ourbehalf, and we run a four-day sale – placingthe purchase order afterwards. The purchaseorders are generally much larger that way.

TB: What else makes Secret Salesdifferent to your competitors?SK: We’ve always focused on a slightlydifferent category mix. Accessories are thecore of our business and have given us a pointof difference. The UK market is driven bywomenswear, and women are the majoritytarget audience for Secret Sales. Accessoriesalso tend to have a high margin, and they sellwell. In terms of online, they are easy todeliver. Also, the returns tend to be much lessthan on womenswear.

TB: How is your customer base of 3.2million split between women and men?SK: It’s 70 per cent women and 30 per centmen. We have a specific customer, and we callher Kate. She’s of a specific age anddemographic. She’s aged 30-45 years old, shelives in a city, is brand savvy and affluent. Sonaturally most of our communication tries tofocus on how to attract Kate. She also buys forher partner, home and children. NK: To add to that, Kate is so obsessed withmaking sure herself, her family and homelook good, but she’s conscious about theamount of money she spends. We also haveother customers who resemble Kate, whomay be at a different part of their life cycle.

TB: How big are mobile sales to you?NK: Mobile is a massive part of what we do.Around 55 per cent of our sales are comingfrom mobile phones and tablets. It’s grownfrom less than 20 per cent just over a year ago.

TB: How much of the business is aboutthe high-end luxury brands?NK: The important thing to remember isthat we’re a volume business. While it’simportant to have the big brands such asMulberry, Prada and Gucci that draw peoplein, the bread and butter of what we do tendsto be with labels that have large volumes ofinventory. It’s much more about premiummass market or premium high street – that’sour real comfort zone.

way of communicating and engaging withcustomers that could really shake the excessinventory market here, in a positive way. It’sactually less about excess inventory now, andmuch more about becoming a viable long-term retail partner for brands. We’reseen as an additional revenue stream forbrands, it’s not just a matter of clearance.

TB: Could it come to a point wherebrands might provide exclusive productfor Secret Sales?NK: We have had labels talk to us about that,yes. But I think at the moment there’s so muchnatural product available for us. We’re stilljust scratching the surface of what’s out there.

TB: So aside from a platform for brandsto clear excess stock, what are the otherattractions for labels to Secret Sales?NK: We have this huge database of engagedcustomers. We’ve got some customer groupsbuying 20 times a year. We also havecustomers who visit us every day. It’s apowerful platform to position an upcomingbrand on – to expose it to a much wideraudience. Customers get a taste for a brandthat they might not have ordinarily. We alsohave a successful nationwide TV advertisingcampaign. Online sales are becoming soimportant to labels, and we’re at the cuttingedge, so labels are coming to us. We launchbetween six and 10 sales every day.

TB: How did you go about persuadingbrands that it was a respectable way ofclearing excess stock in the first place?SK: When we started we were the first flashsales business in the UK, so the concept didn’texist and the whole education process wasquite difficult to get over. For the first fewmonths we were purchasing stock andcommitting to certain orders. We had to testit, get the formula right and be able topresent examples of sales results that could beachieved. We were trying to understand whatit was that UK customers wanted in terms ofdiscount and selling price. Secret Sales is allabout spontaneity. It’s about the impulse, andthere is a formula in getting that right. Youdon’t want customers to consider too muchwhen they’re on the site. You want them tocome on the website and purchase withinminutes. Some of our earliest brand partnersincluded Furla, John Smedley, Diesel, TrueReligion, Desigual, Ray Ban and Samsonite.

TB: How has the amount of brands youwork with evolved?SK: Our portfolio used to support almost 900brands, but what we’re doing now is refiningit down. We’re only currently working with650, but moving forward we’re going toactively reduce that. We’ve found ourcustomers respond to a more curated edit.

TB: What is the other big appeal to a


Promotion—

rands including Masai,Michaela Louisa, Adini andnewcomer Bella Blue areamong a growing list ofexhibitors choosing Moda

Woman as their only UK outing forspring/summer 2015.

Masai and Bella Blue will also formpart of the line-up in this season’s trend-focused section, Moda White. As wellas attracting a host of international namesthe area will present collections from Britishfavourites such as Saskia and Suzy D.

Elsewhere, in Moda Noir, DressCodewill launch a new capsule range ofeveningwear inspired by red-carpet glamour.Designed by Helen Swaine, Dressedwill addto the expanding evening and occasionwearbrands throughout the show.

Back for its second edition, the ModaNoir line-up will also include brands such asUS design house Mac Duggal, occasionfootwear specialist Rainbow Club, Italianlabel Veni Infantino and French brandCorizzi, which will join Dress Code andother industry heavyweights John Charles,Mascara and Linea Raffaeli to present thedefinitive collection of evening andoccasionwear brands in one, easy-to-access area.

Other new names joining the Moda Woman line-up include PachamamaKnitwear, Kiraku, Intown,Miss Baronand Herman Lange, promising anotherseason of diversity and choice that ismirrored in neighbouring shows ModaAccessories, Moda Footwear and ModaLingerie & Swimwear.

B

EXCLUSIVE BRANDS,NEW LAUNCHES NEW LAUNCHES NEAND INSPINSPIN IRATIRATIONIONABOUNDABOUNDABOfind yoursElf at thE hEart ofwomEn’s fashion and aCCEssoriEs,as moda rEturns to thE nECbirmingham on 10-12 august 2014.—

Developing a loyal following withinModa Accessories, labels such as BettyBarclay, JK HendersonWatches andZandra Rhodes handbagswill exhibittheir latest ranges as they return to the showfor their second season.

Firm favourites are also looking tomake an impact at the spring/summer 2015edition, with Eliza Graciousheading upthe Adorned at Moda billing, presentingits latest selection of design-led jewellery.Meanwhile, Jewel City, Pia Rossini,Casa Di Stella and Funk n Joolz arealso among the diverse roster of brands.

Moda Lingerie & Swimwearprepares to welcome the widestselection of swimwear for the seasonto Hall 17 this summer. Debuting atthe show, London label Look Z’sarray of printed bikinis will sitalongside the likes of Australian brandSeafolly and Portuguese label Roidalfor a truly international line-up.

Moda Lingerie & Swimwear’soffer is further enhanced by the variety ofniche brands available in Moda Boutique.The exclusively edited area welcomes thelaunch of Chantelle Beach, a newswimwear venture for the label, which willstill alongside a strong contingent ofreturning brands including Vevie andTutti Rouge.

Cappping off the variety of women’sproduct, this season’s Moda Footwearwelcomes a host of new premium brandsincluding Jeffrey Campbell, Lodi andGadea as well as firm favourites Cara,Cefalu, Högl, and El Naturalista. miss baron

betty barclayaccessories

BACK TO BEECHES

Moda strikes the perfect balance betweenwork and play, with social events to suit thesummer season. Join colleagues and peers totoast the first day of business at a drinksreception held after the show at the NEC,and make sure you don’t miss out on ticketsfor the Monday night party, to be held at The Beeches bar and grill – a five-minutedrive from the NEC.

PROMOTION—

DAILY INSPIRATION AND ADVICE

Adding value season on season, Moda’s daily catwalk and seminar programmepromises both trend inspiration and practicalbusiness advice. The programme forspring/summer 2015 is set to include topicssuch as SEO, stock control and the secret towriting the best online product descriptions.

INTRODUCING E-ZONE LIVE

Fresh for August 2014, E-Zone Live is a brand new section at Moda, dedicated to e-commerce and retail technologies. Find outhow to improve, review or start your own e-commerce platforms with daily workshopsand demonstrations in the area, as well asinteracting with the latest technologies set to make business even easier.


Discover the latest brands, news from the show and register for your free ticket to visit onlinetoday at moda-uk.co.uk

Corizzi

Jeffrey Campbell

El Naturalista

Look Z Pia Rossini








FASHION—

�

NIGHT LIFELuxury nightwear and

loungewear brand Anne WigginsLondon offers elegant silk piecessuch as flirty camisoles, classic

pyjamas, sensual slips andluxurious robes, all constructedfrom the finest quality silk in aflattering champagne tone.

Every garment is gift-wrapped in tissue with organic lavender in a beautiful box tied with a

silk ribbon.—

Nana Judy’s latestcollection for a/w 14 channels asports-luxe vibe,where meshdetailing andbomber jackets sit alongsidekaleidoscopicprints on cami tops andmini dresses.—

STYLE FILEThe hottest brands not to miss this month

—

�

DENIM REVOLUTIONPremium denim brand AG AdrianoGoldschmied has launched two newinnovations for a/w 14. The Contour

360 (pictured) is a jean socomfortable and pliable that it couldbe worn while practising yoga. TheDigital Luxe Denim, meanwhile,isn’t made of denim at all, but

a textural illusion, as aspects of adistressed and worn vintage denimpiece are printed onto the garment.

—

—Stepping upOriginally a staple of the Ibiza clubbing and beachscene, plimsoll brand Flossy has taken the fashionworld by storm, and is supplying prestigious storesacross the globe from New York to Japan. Thelabel’s signature and popularity are based aroundthree cornerstones – comfort, simplicity andbright colours – and are set to once again become ahit with fashionistas and clubbers this summer. —

A daring combination oftextures, femininesilhouettes and 90sinfluences come fromKirsty Ward for a/w 14.The line boasts definedstructures and bold cuts,with a carefully selectedcolour palette of pewter, applegreen and cream setting the basefor injections of purple acrossstatement styles.—

STYLE FLASH—

Spanish designer DanielCerdan has launched his debutwomenswear line for a/w 14.Strong silhouettes and fabricssuch as rich silk Ottoman andduchesse satin feature heavily

in the couture-inspired range. —

STYLE FLASH—

Monkee Genes is ramping up its eco-friendly credentials,thanks to a partnership with

PETA. The retailer hasswitched from offering leather

jean patches to all animal-free, coated recycled

cardboard patches. —

�

TOMBOY SPIRITUS brand and e-tailer Wildfangaims to tap into the underservedfemale consumer demand for

menswear-inspired fashion, withthe mission to “liberate menswear,

one bow tie at a time”. Thebrainchild of Emma McIlroy and

Julia Parsley, the companylaunched just over a year ago, buthas been expanding globally at

rapid speed. —


FASHION—

FASHION RADARThe hottest brands to look out for right now

—

The denim brand offers individual style at anaffordable price without compromising on design,quality or fit.

Established: 2013

Signature style: Styles are Scandinavian-influenced, drawinginspiration from modern architecture, the arts and geometry.

Established in London, founder and self-confessed denimenthusiast Anika Islam created the minimalist denim label afterspotting a gap in the high-street market. Utilising two generationsof denim manufacturing, Wåven is often likened to Acne, Cheap Monday and Weekday, but differentiates through itsScandinavian-inspired design. The brand returns with it’s a/w 14collection, maintaining a strong focus on simplicity, with featured colours including muted tones of black, blue and grey and prints influenced by geometric shapes. Key pieces includebestsellers such as a high-waist skinny, while the brand’s favouriteworkwear-inspired “shacket” is also a buyer favourite. Wholesaleprices range between £10 and £38.—

Established: 2013

Signature style: High-end luxury activewear with a focus onversatility. Made from luxurious fabrics from Italy, garments aredesigned to be as functional as they are flattering.

The creation of German-born designer and keen tennis playerStefani Grosse, Monreal London was founded based on acommitment to both fashion and functionality. Bringing 16 yearsof experience in the fashion industry to the brand, garments aredesigned to be capable of performing on the tennis court whileremaining versatile enough to stand up in the style stakes. Usinghigh-tech performance fabrics from Italy with a UV 50+ filter, thecollection includes garments with inbuilt sports bras andremovable cups to create flattering silhouettes. It is the brand’ssignature dresses that remain the stars of the collection, with theaddition of staple T-shirt and skirts for the new season. Wholesaleprices average at around £60.—

MONREAL LONDONThe brand introduces its second collection forspring/summer 2014 with a range of styles reflectingcolours of the Caribbean.

WÅVEN


BIRA HIGH STREET CONFERENCE—

TOMORROW’SWORLDRLDRLDWORLDWOTODAYAYAYTODAYTODThe British Independent Stores Association (Bira) The British Independent Stores Association (Bira) The British Independent Stores Association (Bira) held its annual High Street Conference last held its annual High Street Conference last held its annual High Street Conference last month, discussing the challenges of retailing and themonth, discussing the challenges of retailing and themonth, discussing the challenges of retailing and theimpact technology has on the shops of the future.impact technology has on the shops of the future.impact technology has on the shops of the future.Isabella Griffiths reports.

ollowing in the footsteps of last year’s successful debates,The British Independent Retailers Association (Bira) onceagain invited its members and key industry personalitiesto come together and discuss the challenges and

opportunities retailers are facing, now and in the future. Retail veteran Bill Grimsey, former CEO of Wickes, Iceland

and Focus DIY and author of last year’s alternative assessment of thehigh street, the Grimsey Review, kicked off proceedings with his talkon Preparing High Streets and Town Centres for the 21st Century. “If there are only a few things that you will remember from thispresentation, I want you to go away with this,” he said. “1. The futurehas never ever been more exciting for the retail sector than right now.2. It’s only going to be exciting if you are prepared to change. 3.Among all the negatives that you hear about high streets and how badit is for independent retailers – well, it’s just as bad for the big guys.”

Grimsey put developments in technology, and especially theinvention of the internet and rise of mobile devices, at the heart of hisspeech, and argued that both need to be embraced by the retail worldas they are the only way to turn around the fortunes of high streets upand down the country. Quoting some of the findings from hisGrimsey Review, which constituted that town-centre planners need tore-think how they use empty store spaces and put technology at theheart of the solution, he said, “You might think it’s tough for you, butthe big guys are in an even bigger pickle. The ‘big four’ – Tesco,Sainsbury’s, Morrisons and Asda – in 10-15 years, won’t be here anymore if they don’t adapt to the changing face of retail and embracetechnology. They’ve got too much costly retail space – but do we needall this space in the future? Do you think Philip Green [ArcadiaGroup] is going to renew 80 per cent of his leases that are coming upfor renegotiation in the next five years? No, because he knows thattechnology is coming.”

But equally he stressed that the onus was independent retailersthemselves to also innovate and embrace technology and use it tocreate unique customer experiences that will make their stores standout and create “community hubs” instead of “clone towns”, which aredriven by shopping, leisure, housing and employment. “We don’tneed clone towns with the same shops in every town; we need

community hubs,” says Grimsey. “The future is to have anindependent town that gives you an experience; where people want tolive, work and visit.

“And independents are part of this,” he continued. “I’m goingto ban the term ‘customer service’ from our industry. It ismeaningless. Forget it; it’s an overused term. It’s about an experience.It’s about the customer experience, and we, the retailer, have to createthat. The future of the high street depends on the political will, thelocal will and independent traders who are willing to bring diversityand uniqueness to a town.”

This was followed by a series of short interviews hosted byBBC business editor Steph McGovern, who delved into three of theburning issues impacting the daily life of independent retailers.Michael Weedon, Bira’s deputy CEO, discussed the impact of thecurrent business rate system, which has been at the centre of muchpublic debate recently. “There has been property tax in this countryfor hundreds of years, but the business rates that we have today havebeen designed in 1988 and implemented in 1990, and since then allsorts of things have changed,” he analysed, reiterating the call of theretail industry on the government to urgently reform and review thecurrent system. “The most significant is probably that you no longeractually need a shop, or a physical presence at all to retail. So theframework is changing, but the taxation system remains as it was.”

Weedon said it would be fairer to make the revaluation systemsimpler, so a review can be undertaken much more frequently,“Because the rate of economic change is accelerating all the time, andwe need to respond to that,” he said. “The current system has twomain effects; it affects profitability and it discourages retailers fromopening more shops,” he put forward, both of which weredetrimental to the industry.

However, Weedon did not paint an entirely bleak picture; onthe contrary. Quoting latest figures from the Local Data Company, hesaid that independents are faring better than their high-streetequivalents, with town centres showing healthier vacancy rates thanout-of-town centres, with certain sectors in particular showingstrong signs of survival. “Service and leisure independents especiallyseem to be still going strong, due to the nature of their business – after

FBBC business

editorSteph McGovern

BIRA HIGH STREET CONFERENCE—

all, it’s difficult to get a haircut or a tattoo on the internet,” he said. The “e-commerce revolution” was at the heart of McGovern’s

interview with Joan Woolfe, CEO of e-tailer Cooking Marvellous,who shared her success story since launching the business in 2007,accelerated by the rise of e-commerce, and attested that retailers haveto keep up with the technology constantly. “As an online retailer,things are moving incredibly quickly, and you have to constantlyadapt,” he said. “Customers have moved on, and customer expectationshave moved on and changed – they expect more all the time and youhave to deliver.”

Neil Moss, head of business at the National Skills Academy,meanwhile, talked about the “retail skills gap”, which is anotherchallenge retailers are facing. “There are too many young peoplecoming out of education who haven’t got the employability skills thatour sector needs,” he said, adding that more support andencouragement from the government is needed to make retailing anattractive proposition for young people and securing the future of thesector. “The problem is that the government doesn’t get the retailsector and its importance. We need to do a lot more lobbying to makethem understand just how much retail matters, particularly in termsof jobs and wages. It is not a low-skill, low-wage sector.”

Finally, Martijn Bertisen, senior industry head of retail atGoogle UK, took to the stage, giving an insightful presentation on“the store of the future”. Exploring the big trends that are happeningin the digital world over the next decade or two, he emphasised thehuge impact of the internet and new technologies on both retail itselfand how consumers shop.

According to Bertisen, Google estimates that, by 2020, 100 per

cent of the world’s population will have access to online. And withcomputing power doubling every 18 months, it poses newopportunities – and challenges – on retailers in terms of how theyengage with their customers. “Change has never happened this fastbefore, and it will never be as slow again,” he said, telling theaudience, “Technology is enabling shoppers to get to your store. Weare entering a six-screen world – people are accessing online throughtheir desktop computers, mobiles, TVs, tablets as well as wearable andin-car devices. Mobile development will therefore remain critical.”

He cited the development of Google Glass as a key example –an invention which, when first announced, received a lot ofscepticism from industry and consumers alike, but will now be rolled out as an in-store device across a number of retailers at the endof the year. “Things like Google Glass are coming – and they canmake the physical in-store experience much richer,” said Bertisen.“Multi-channel is crucial for retailers.

“The meaning of ‘www’ is changing; it’s now more like ‘whatwe want’, ‘where we want’ and ‘when we want’,” he continued,outlining his key pieces of advice to retailers, “Wise up. Use data –online shopping is giving you a wealth of data [about yourcustomers] that you can use for business strategy, get ahead onconsumer trends and competition behaviour. Data beats opinion. Winthe moments that matter. This means open up every single saleschannel and be great at every single one. Think speed. Being 10 percent better is not good enough any more; think more along the linesof being 10 times better – aim for that all the time. Digital allows youto test things easily and push your business along quicker and moreeffectively – think big and be brave.”

“I’m going to ban the term ‘customer service’ from ourindustry. It is meaningless. Forget it; it’s an overused term.It’s about an experience. It’s about the customer experience,and we, the retailer, have to create that”

Martijn Bertisen, seniorindustry head of retail,

Google UK Joan Woolfe, CEO, Cooking Marvellous

Neil Moss, head ofbusiness, National Skills Academy

Retail veteran Bill Grimsey Michael Weedon, deputy CEO, Bira




PROFILE—

o say the last few years have been anything but testingfor fashion businesses would be a gross understatement.But one company that has consistently bucked the trendand seemingly gone from strength to strength is

Canadian label Joseph Ribkoff, which recently ended its fiscal yearwith an eight per cent increase in turnover, building on a 57-yearhistory during which it has never recorded a year of negative growth.This speaks volumes about the longevity and overall strength of itsbusiness model, which is entirely based on wholesale.

Founded in 1957 by Joseph Ribkoff, who started the companyat just 19 with C$2000 of wedding gift money in his pocket, theglobal growth of the label is a genuine rags-to-riches story, withRibkoff rising from humble beginnings in Montreal’s working classto successful entrepreneur. Now aged 77, Ribkoff has mainlywithdrawn from the day-to-day running of the business, but stillpresides over the company as chairman and, alongside CEO JohnFerraro, helps formulate the bigger strategy for the label’s furthersuccess and growth. His main agenda for the last ten or so years hasbeen to put in place a framework that will secure the company’s

future beyond his involvement – a “transition to the next generationof management”, as he puts it.

Ferraro is instrumental in this pursuit. He himself has beenwith the company for 21 years, having started fresh from college inthe credit department and subsequently moved through almost everydivision, from customer service to sales, shipping and logistics tobecoming co-president in 2007 and eventually CEO in 2010. WhatFerraro doesn’t know about the business clearly isn’t worth knowing,and when WWB meets up with him, his enthusiasm for the brand is palpable.

“I think what’s kept me in the company is that it’s always beenevolving, and so has my role,” says Ferraro. “It has always given me anopportunity to grow as a person and professionally, and I’ve reallyenjoyed the journey. I don’t have a background in fashion – I’m anaccountant by trade – but this gives me my creative fix. It’s aninteresting business.”

It’s under his watch that Joseph Ribkoff has been successfullywalking the tight rope between continuity and evolution, adapting tonew market conditions and customers’ demands while also

T

FASHIONINGFASHIONINGFASHIONINGTHE FUTUREE FUTUREE FUTURE

Joseph Ribkoff is one of the leading CanadianJoseph Ribkoff is one of the leading CanadianJoseph Ribkoff is one of the leading Canadianfashion exports and a consistently strong performerfashion exports and a consistently strong performerfashion exports and a consistently strong performerin boutiques across the globe. Isabella Griffiths metin boutiques across the globe. Isabella Griffiths metin boutiques across the globe. Isabella Griffiths metup with the company’s CEO, John Ferraro, to find up with the company’s CEO, John Ferraro, to find up with the company’s CEO, John Ferraro, to find out how the brand wants to double its business in theout how the brand wants to double its business in theout how the brand wants to double its business in theUK, and quizzed founder Joseph Ribkoff about theUK, and quizzed founder Joseph Ribkoff about theUK, and quizzed founder Joseph Ribkoff about thevalues that have been defining the company forvalues that have been defining the company forvalues that have been defining the company fornearly six decades. —

>>>


PROFILE—

made in Canada, giving Joseph Ribkoff an undeniable advantage inboth quality control and speed to market over Asian-producedmerchandise, and it’s easy to see why business has been so strong for the brand.

Another reason for Joseph Ribkoff’s popularity is itscommitment to wholesale and independent retailers, serving morethan 4,000 boutiques in 55 countries. While many other brands havebeen increasingly going down the multi-channel route, JosephRibkoff remains focused on working with independent boutiques.“We are committed to bricks-and-mortar stores, absolutely,” saysFerraro, who’s also open about the fact that he has no intention oflaunching an e-commerce operation in the near future. “People arealways saying that these stores are dying but, for our consumer, that’snot the case. They want to have the service, they want to shop in ashop, and the great thing about little boutiques is that they offer thatkind of service.

“I think there’s always going to be room for the boutiques,” he continues. “And as long as there is some entrepreneurial spirit outthere, there is always going to be that person who will launch theirown business, their little boutique. We’ve lost accounts, and we’veopened some, and for every boutique that we close, we also open anew one. The internet is a whole different business, and a challengeitself in how you adapt to it. We’re dedicated to our stores – they’re theones that give us our business – so to sell over the internet is a trickydecision, because it’s always a question of whether you’re competingagainst them, which you don’t want to do. We haven’t quite decidedhow we want to handle that yet. Some of our stockists have e-commerce websites and, right now, it’s the best way for us.”

Growth may not come from e-commerce any time soon, but

also remaining true to its core identity. The brand is loved for its vastselection of dresses for every occasion, versatile separates and casualstyles, as well as elegant eveningwear for more formal occasions. Andcoupled with affordable mid-market price points (the average retailprice is around £210), it is regularly hailed by its stockists as abestselling label. Ferraro puts it down to “hard work, the right styling, great fit, great service and good deliveries”. He says, “We listento our customers, and we go out there and find out what they want.I’m on the road all the time, and I always talk to our stores, reps andcustomers. I guess my role is to filter all the stuff that I hear and make sense of it for the brand.”

It’s a formula that has stood the company in good stead,especially over the last five years, which have seen many of itscontemporaries struggle through the recession. “We’ve donecomparatively well [throughout the recession], maybe because wehave stayed true to ourselves and what we do best,” says Ferraro. “Youcan’t panic because the economy gets difficult somewhere. We weredoing considerably well anyway, so we never thought, ‘What shouldwe do differently?’

“Fashion changes, but the consumer doesn’t,” he continues. “Ifa woman puts something on and she likes it, she will buy it. We createdemand by making her feel special. We’re in the business of makingpeople happy. Our Prozac is clothing. In many ways we have benefitedfrom the recession, because in tough economic times people stopspending on big ticket items; they don’t buy houses, they don’t buycars, but they’ve got to feel good in some way, and clothes have thatability. We’re not a brand that is overly expensive. The price point isgood and the fashion is good, and that’s always worked for us.”

Couple this with a product that is entirely – and proudly –

“In many ways we have benefited from the recession,because in tough economic times, people stopspending on big ticket items; they don’t buy houses,they don’t buy cars, but they’ve got to feel good insome way, and clothes have that ability”

John Ferraro


PROFILE—

expansion is nevertheless very much at the forefront of the businessstrategy. And with the UK ranking among the top five exportmarkets for the label after Canada, the US and Germany – it hasaround 300 accounts across the UK and Ireland – it is a market that iscentral to this ambition. “The UK is a big focus for us,” says Ferraro.“We can probably double our business here; we’re far from saturated.

“Think about it – I do double the business [of the UK] inCanada, a country with a population of 35 million; the population inthe UK is nearly double that,” he continues. “If we can do it overthere, we can do it over here. We can definitely still grow within ourexisting accounts, but there’s also those nooks and crannies wherewe’re not represented, so I think we can also still have more stores.There’s always opportunities out there.”

To stay on top of its game, Joseph Ribkoff is ploughinginvestment back into its infrastructure – in particular itsmanufacturing, administration and distribution technology – tomeet the demand and growth of the label. Last year, the companyinvested over C$2m in a state-of-the-art shipping and distributioncentre, as well as having added 20,000 sq ft of space to houseautomated cutting machines in a building close to its impressive80,000 sq ft headquarters in Montreal.

This is a crucial step in making sure that both production anddeliveries can keep up with an ever-increasing order capacity,particularly on its stock and replenishment service, with the brandoffering an extremely efficient year-round re-order facility on keystyles and bestsellers with short delivery times –which is anotherreason for the label’s huge popularity with its stockists.

The speed of turnaround is something that Ferraro sees as acentral challenge for the brand, and something that will continue tocommand investment in the future. “Fast fashion has become huge,and even though we are not in the fast-fashion market, it does meanthat we, too, have to get better at delivering quicker,” he says, “If acustomer wants to replenish on a bestseller or order additional styles,we can’t deliver five months later, it needs to be quick and efficient. Alot of our stores call us up and say, ‘I want to repeat style X and Y, canyou deliver tomorrow?’ Often we are able to, and it is something weare working to improve all the time. For as good as we are, we can getbetter.” It’s this kind of sentiment that is setting the agenda for JosephRibkoff’s undoubtedly promising future.

ON STARTING THE COMPANY“I had worked in the needletrade from when I was a 15-year-old lad and I thought Ihad a job for life. But the boss’family member was promotedover my head, even though hewas useless, and I knew it wastime for me to leave and do my own thing. That kind ofthing never happened under my watch.”

OUTLOOK ON LIFE “My good fortune has been thepeople around me. Many peopleshare the success we’ve had. Myphilosophy of life has alwaysbeen about people. Fashion comes and goes and business comes andgoes, but people remain. It’s people that you have to get on with, workwith and nurture relationships with. I’ve always tried to be astruthful as I can be. I am who I am – I’m upfront, I always pay mystaff generously and more than average, and I’ve been rewardedwith people who have been very loyal to me and the company over the years.”

SUCCEEDING IN BUSINESS“Quite honestly, I never started out with a great vision. I was alearner – I still am – and in the early days I was up against farbigger and more established businesses. But in the very first year, Imade money. We haven’t had a losing year in 57 years, and I’mproud of that. I’ve never been in it for the money, though. You havegot to have a passion and this is mine. It’s hard work, but you reapwhat you sow.”

BUSINESS PHILOSOPHY “Back in the day, most entrepreneurs were a lot more intuitive. Wedid things a lot more ‘off the cuff’ – you worked hard and took risks.Today it’s a lot more about number crunching at all levels and toomuch emphasis on the bottom line. It takes the fun out of business.”

BEST PIECE OF ADVICE“If you are pursuing your business, do not let go. Be persistent,persistent, persistent. And always pay attention to your customer.”

MADE IN CANADA“Not many designers have survived globalisation and thecompetition of Asian countries. I attempted to outsource a portion ofmy production 20 years ago, but I quickly changed my mind.”

THE NEXT GENERATION“I’ve started the process of transitioning to the next generation ofmanagement around 10 years ago. When I started to let go, there werea few bumps along the way, but I feel we are now in a good place andwith people and structures in place that I have confidence in. Ashuman beings, we all believe that nobody can do a job as good as you,and don’t get me wrong, I’m not without ego, but I’ve had to learnthat it’s ok to let go and that things will be in good hands. There’s a lotmore to life, and I am now enjoying being able to spend more timewith my family and focus on my education. I’ve been studyinghumanities – philosophy, psychology, arts and culture – and it’sgiven me a great new balance and perspective on life.”

MEET: JOSEPH RIBKOFF

WWB caught up with the company founder and chairman to discover the personality behind the brand.

Mark your diary now for the largest and most exciting London Swimwear Show yet!

20-22 July 2014Radisson Blu Portman Hotel, LondonA superb line up of eminent brands (Gottex, Seafolly, Maryan Mehlhorn, Mimi Holliday, Moontide, Feraud ...) are accompanied by new brand launches as Amardeep Kaur and Malafronte and new exhibitors such as Empreinte Swim, Maison Lejaby, Janine Robin, Pia Rossini, Jode London, Oroblu and much more.More details on the show, entry times and hotel accommodation on www.londonswimwearshow.com




EXHIBITION CALENDAR—

PITTI W

17-20 JuneFortezza da Basso, Florence0039 (0)5509491861www.pittimmagine.com—With its ever-strong focus oninternationality, Pitti W once again returns tothe Fortezza da Basso. Now in its 14th edition,the show will present previews of innovativecollections from international brands.Strategically located at Arena Strozzi among

the sections featuring the most cutting edge looks at Pitti Uomo, the exhibits blends perfectlywith the menswear show’s lifestyle concept. Among others, confirmed exhibitors this yearinclude Fame On You Paris, Flogg, Giosa Milano and Jeffrey Campbell.—

WHO’S NEXT PRET-A-PORTERPARIS

Parc Des Expositions, Porte De Versailles,Paris 4-7 July 2014 0033 (0)1401374 77www.whosnext-tradeshow.com—From the exterior design to its themedexhibitions, this season’s Who’s Next Prêt-à-Porter celebrates Turkish design. Fromthe 2,000 international brands taking part inthe event, a large number of Turkish ready-to-wear and accessory brands will be showing,including Vakko, Özlem Süer, Onteks, Ark, 2Wins, Ece Gözen, Maid in Love and Mehry Mu. —

WHITE 21-23 June 2014Via Tortona 27, 20144 Milan0039 (0)234592785www.whiteshow.it

CAPSULE BERLIN8-9 July 2014 Postbahnhof, Straße der Pariser Kommune 8,10243 Berlin0012 122068310www.capsuleshow.com

SEEK 8-10 July 2014Luckenwalder Str 3 10963 Berlin0049 (0)306290850 www.seekexhibitions.com

BRIGHT 8-10 July 2014Brunnenstrasse 19-21, 10119 Berlin0049 (0)6966962157www.brighttradeshow.com

LONDON SWIMWEAR SHOW20-22 July 2014Radisson Blu Portman Hotel,London W1Hwww.londonswimwearshow.com

SUMMERSCHEDULE

The key shows for s/s 15 at a glance. Sponsored by:Sponsored by:Sponsored by:



PANORAMA BERLIN

8-10 JulyExpo Center City, Berlin0049 (0)3027595640www.panorama-berlin.com—This season the show is moving to a new,more accessible location at the Expo CenterCity, marking a host of other changes andnew developments for the event. Amongthem is a newly introduced series of fashiontalks on current and market relevant themesof the trade. Topics include current developments in the German market and an outlook onthe market in Russia. A full list of talks will be available on the Panorama website towards theend of this month. —

BREAD & BUTTER

8-10 JulyAirport Berlin – Tempelhof, Berlin0049 (0)302000370www.breadandbutter.com—Having decided to stick to its original tradeshow format without the addition ofconsumer days, Bread & Butter is returningto Tempelhof under this season’s motto,Carnaval do Brasil. Covering denim, street,urban and sportswear labels, womenswear

brands that have confirmed their presence include Eleven Paris, Kerber, Keds, Minimum,Jaded London, Nana Judy, Gestuz, Mbym and Fred Perry.—

PREMIUM

8-10 JulyStation-Berlin, Luckenwalder Strasse, Berlin0049 (0)30208891330www.premiumexhibitions.com—As ever, a vast and diverse range of collectionsare offered at this season’s Premium, fromclassic pieces including sportswear, denim,shoes and accessories to trend-setting avant-garde pieces. Based in the historic hallsof Station-Berlin, the international tradeevent will showcase 900 brands and 1,500 collections over 24,000 sq m. Presenting theindustry with an international high-calibre brand portfolio curated for its s/s 15 edition, labelsexhibiting include Fendi, Givenchy, Hip and Bone, Odd Molly, The Hip Tee and Sun 68. —

PROJECT NEW YORK20-22 July 2014 Jacob Javits, 11th Ave 36th StNew York0012 187407092www.magiconline.com

CAPSULE NEW YORK21-22 July 2014Basketball City 299 South St (at Montgomery St) New York0012 122068310www.capsuleshow.com

CPH VISION3-6 August 2014Oksnehallen, Halmtorvet, 1700 Copenhagen0045 39648586www.cphvision.dk

CIFF 3-6 August 2014Bella Center Copenhagen 0045 32472213www.ciff.dk

GALLERY6-8 August 2014Forum, Copenhagen0045 32472093www.gallery.dk

MODA ACCESSORIES 8-10 August 2014 NEC, Birmingham, UK01484 846069www.moda-uk.co.uk



MODEFABRIEK

13-14 JulyAmsterdam RAI, Amsterdam0031 (0)204421960www.modefabriek.nl—Modefabriek returns this year with 650exhibiting brands and over 500 stands,showcasing the up-and-coming niche labelsas well as regular industry favourites. Splitinto four segments differentiated by lifestyle,image and distribution – and five specialisedplatforms – the vast collection of brands will present pieces from national and internationaldesigners. Modefabriek will also play host to programme specials including seminars, a Trashand Treasures garage sale and Fashion Desk. —

SCOOP INTERNATIONAL

13-15 JulySaatchi Gallery, Chelsea, and Phillips, Victoria London020 7596 5154 www.scoop-international.com

Boutique trade show Scoop Internationalreturns this summer with its usual calibre ofcontemporary labels, showcasing their s/s 15collections against a backdrop of vanguard

art. More than 400 home-grown and international labels will present their latest designs atthe event, covering ready-to-wear, accessories, footwear as well as lifestyle products. Brandsexhibiting at the show include the likes of LA brand Sanetti, Italian label Rosso 35, TeresaAbrunhosa from Portugal as well as UK cult brands Muuba and Toby Mott. —

PURE

3-5 August 2014Olympia, London020 3033 2500www.purelondon.com—This season Pure London will theme its showaround architecture, teaming up withleading architecture and design collegeRavensbourne. Building on changes revealedat the February show, footwear andaccessories will be relocated in order toenhance the identity of both areas and improve visitor flow, while two new sections –Emerging Brands and The Accessories Launch Pad - will also be added. —

MODA LINGERIE &SWIMWEAR8-10 August 2014NEC, Birmingham, UK01484 84069www.moda-uk.co.uk

WHAT ABOUT SHOES22-24 August 2014Postbahnhof, Strasse derPariser Kommune 8 10243 Berlin0049 (0)3068910572www.whataboutshoes.de

THE HUB27-28 August 2014D2 Place, Lai Chi Kok, Hong Kong www.thehub.hk

MICAM31 August – 3 September 2014Fieramilano, Milan 0039 02438291www.micamonline.com

CPM 3-6 September 2014Expocentre Fairgrounds,Krasnopresenskaya nab., 14 123100, Moscow0049 (0)211/4396-482 www.cpm-moscow.com

BIJORHCA5-8 September 2014Paris Expo Porte de Versailles,Paris0033 (0)660600396www.bijorhca.com



MODA WOMAN

10-12 August 2014NEC, Birmingham, UK01484 846069www.moda-uk.co.uk—Fresh for August 2014, Moda is launching anew area dedicated to e-commerce and retailtechnologies. E-Zone Live will give visitorsthe opportunity to hear from leading expertswith a series of free seminars as well as thechance to interact with the products and theteams behind them. Moda Noir is returning for its second show with a variety of internationalnames such as US design house Mac Duggal, Italian label Veni Infantino and French brandCorizzi as well as regulars John Charles, Mascara and Mon Cheri. Other newcomers includePachamama Knitwear, Kiraku and Herman Lange. —

MODA FOOTWEAR

10-12 August 2014NEC, Birmingham, UK01484 846069www.moda-uk.co.uk—With over 400 brands showing at ModaFootwear, the event returns this year with avaried and international line-up, combininga mix of mainstream labels and smalleremerging names. After making their debut at the last edition, returning brands

include Doc Martens and Cara, while industry heavyweights such as Högl, Marian, Cara,Hispanitas, Rocket Dog, Dolcis, Ravel and Ruby Shoo all make the list of exhibitors. As always,Moda Footwear will run alongside Moda Woman, complementing ready-to-wear with add-on products.—

LONDON FASHION WEEK

12-16 September 2014Somerset House and various venues London020 7759 1990www.londonfashionweek.co.uk—The line-up for this season’s show wasunconfirmed at the time of going to press, but expect to see more than 120 ready-to-wear and accessory designerspresenting their latest collections across morethan 60 catwalk shows on the official schedule and 45 off schedule. The static exhibition willagain host an edited selection of contemporary designers and up-and-coming labels acrossready-to-wear, accessories and footwear.—

ILM 6-8 September 2014Messe Offenbach GmbH,Kaiserstraße 108-112 Berlin0049 698297550www.messe-offenbach.de��THE HARROGATE BRIDALSHOW7-9 September 2014Harrogate International Centre01423 770120www.theharrogatebridalshow.co.uk

LONDONEDGE7-9 September 2014Business Design Centre, Upper Street, London0116 289 8249www.londonedge.com

MOMAD METROPOLIS12-14 September 2014 IFEMA Convention & CongressCentre, Madrid 0034 917223000www.momad.metropolis.ifema.es

CAPSULE PARIS 26-28 September 2014Tapis Rouge, 67 rue duFaubourg Saint-Martin, 75010 Paris0012 122068310www.capsuleshow.com

TRANOI FEMME26-29 September 2014 Palais de la Bourse, 72002 Paris 0033 (0)153018490www.tranoi.com

jul 8–10 aug 9–12STATION-Berlin MOC Munich

PREMIUM INTERNATIONAL FASHION TRADE SHOW PREMIUM ORDER MUNICH

SPRING/SUMMER 2015

WWW.PREMIUMEXHIBITIONS.COM



SCOOP—

With a dynamic mix of contemporary and emerging labels against a backdrop of cutting-edge art, Scoop International is back for itseighth edition. Bringing together more than 400 contemporary labels from the UK and across the globe, Scoop’s handpicked edit coversdirectional ready-to-wear, footwear, accessories and lifestyle products, including perfumes and cosmetics, in the exclusive settings of theSaatchi Gallery in London’s Chelsea and Phillips in nearby Victoria. This season, Scoop welcomes another raft of new labels into its fold,sitting alongside high-profile regulars who are once again returning to the show.

With many of the exhibitors exclusive to Scoop and the event’s unique aesthetic and ethos, which combines fashion and art, theexhibition has quickly gained a reputation as one of the most innovative European trade shows in the sector.

In the Saatchi Gallery, this season’s edition will be curated around the exhibition Pangea: New Art from Africa and LatinAmerica, presenting selected works by Jose Carlos Martinat, a Peruvian artist who draws inspiration from architecture and the urbanmilieu. Meanwhile, Phillips will also showcase art by some of the industry’s most acclaimed artists, including contemporary art collectiveRexRomae, comprising of 12 artists from places as diverse as Puerto Rico and Norway, as well as work by Swedish photographer Reg Fallah.

Branded Scoop taxis and courtesy cars will be on hand to transport buyers and visitors between each venue. For more informationvisit www.scoop-international.com, and see overleaf for the newcomers and regular exhibitors not to miss at the show.

SCOOPINTERNATIONALERNATIONALERNATION13-15 JULY 2014SAATCHI GALLERY & PHILLIPSLONDON

>>>


SCOOP—

SCOOPNEWCOMERSTHE BRANDS MAKING THEIRDEBUT AT THIS SEASON’S SHOW.

CATERINA MARIANI Italian jewellery brand Caterina Mariani ismaking its debut at Scoop this season with arange full of statement pieces and dramaticdesigns, alongside more intricate styles thathighlight the vast skill set of the designer.

MUUBAA UK label Muubaa began by supplying leatherjackets for other brands, but was launched asown-label in 2007. The brand has since gonefrom strength to strength with its innovativespin on leather jackets.

LILLA P US label Lilla P is tailored to a casual lifestyle,rethinking the classic styles to create acollection of separates that are both flatteringand functional. Clean lines, subtle details andquality fabrics make for understated luxury.


SCOOP—

RAVINALA Ravinala is an ethical accessories label,offering a premium line of sustainably sourcedcrochet raffia bags. Designed in Devon andmade in Madagascar, the brand is loved for itsaesthetical appeal, practicality and purpose.

YOSI SAMRA Best known for its elegant foldable flats,footwear brand Yosi Samra is making itsScoop debut with an array of designs, fromcute summer sandals through ballet pumps tostylish loafers and more.

IVORIES The philosophy behind Ivories is based around“no season” garments, offering appeal thatextends beyond the traditional time frames of fashion.

BITTE KAI RAND Danish label Bitte Kai Rand has been inspiredby Utopia for its s/s 15 collection, wheregraphic prints, checks and stripes amalgamateinto unusual optical designs.

>>>


SCOOP—

REW CLOTHING Rew Clothing offers an alternative to theclassic scarf, and is introducing its conceptualrange of soft suede and silk neckerchiefs atScoop this season. The signature style is allabout ease of wear and scarves that mouldand sculpt the neckline.

ANNIE WOOLSTON Annie Woolston designs silk scarves inspiredby the patterns of the natural world. The s/s 15 range expands the core line with theaddition of elements drawn from the designer’sfavourite landscape, the Scottish Highlands.

MALA ALISHA Mala Alisha is making both its Scoop and UKdebut this season, offering a scarf collectionbased on original prints that are fresh and yethave a slight vintage feel. The generous size ofthe scarf means it can be worn in manydifferent ways.

HUDSON Hudson has become known for seasonal trendswith a “twist”, often experimenting withandrogynous looks, new treatments andquality leathers. Expect to see a collection fullof quirky pieces with innovativeinterpretations of popular classics.


SCOOP—

LA PAIRE La Paire was born out of designer Amy La’squest to find stylish and yet comfortableleather sandals. The result is a range oftimeless styles that combine a vibrant colourpalette with soft, feminine shapes.

JENNIFER DE BRUYCKÈRE Knitwear designer Jennifer de Bruyckèrecreates clothing for the confident, independentwoman. The label is characterised by refineddesigns, luxurious materials and high-qualityfinishes that provide an effortless chic andunconventional look.

FRAU BLAU Dutch short-order brand Frau Blau specialisesin clever print techniques that combineseasonal trends with its own vision, creating arelaxed mix of colours and textures. The latestcollection is centred around florals, smokepatterns and lace-inspired print designs.

FINLAY & CO Finlay & Co is a British eyewear brand,specialising in handmade wooden sunglasses.The label’s USP is to craft sunglasses from asingle block of wood, with every pair uniquedue to the natural variation in grain.

>>>


SCOOP—

SCOOPREGULARSTHE LABELS RETURNING TO THE EVENT FORSPRING/SUMMER 2015.

HAUBER Pure Passion and Urban Ease are key themesat Hauber this season. The former is focused onsensual, youthful styling, while the lattercontrasts textures and minimal detailing in a mix of tailoring and sports elements.

GLOVERALL British heritage brand Gloverall is returningto the show with an array of jackets, summercoats and macs, available in a vibrant mix ofcolours and high-quality textures for a classicbut understated cool look.

ESSENTIEL Belgian lifestyle brand Essentiel is returningto the show with a versatile collection ofready-to-wear and accessories that are basedon vibrant colours and graphic prints,reflecting the label’s design aesthetic ofbringing fun into fashion.

BEACH CANDY Luxury holidaywear label Beach Candyfocuses on vibrant, candy coloured prints andfloaty frocks that work just as well over abikini on the beach as at an elegantdestination wedding.


SCOOP—

ALEXIA British scarf label Alexia’s printed scarvesand shawls are generating increasing interestamong retailers and consumers. Look out fororiginal prints on luxurious materials, whichare the signature of the brand.

GOAT Goat’s pared-down aesthetic has found adevoted following among the best retailers andclients, and the s/s 15 collection continues inthe brand’s signature minimalist andunderstated way. A focus on subtle details andonly the best qualities defines the range.

TRACEY NEULS Footwear designer Tracey Neuls is once againpresenting a range of quirky footwear stylesthat combine unusual design with impeccablecraftsmanship. Look out for brogues, sandals,Mary-Janes and pumps in the brand’ssignature handwriting.

JOHN & PEARL Accessory brand John & Pearl embodies theBritish attitude to dressing with a street andluxe feel. Key pieces for s/s 15 includestatement colour-block necklaces and layered bracelets.

>>>


SCOOP—

CHRISTOPHE SAUVAT The Christophe Sauvat line is about theconfident, well-travelled and assertivewoman. The line consists of dresses andaccessories, using ancient traditional forms of printing and embroidery.

VILLAGE ENGLAND Village England’s design philosophy is tocreate desirable, high-quality handbags thatare affordable and designed for life. Beautifulleathers and materials accented withsignature brass hardware form the collection.

PARKA LONDON There are some playful shapes that are fun butalso classically inspired in Parka London’soffering for s/s 15. Key styles include Darcy, acropped tencel parka in two colours; Ellis, aside-split shirt jacket; and Hart, a swing mac.

LAMA PEACH Quirky boots, sandals and ballerinas allfeature in Lama Peach’s latest collection,which the brand is once again presenting atScoop. An array of colour and materialoptions gives the range a cool and funky edge.

LIEBESKIND BERLIN Urban, casual and cool is what best describesthe philosophy behind the Liebeskind Berlindesign aesthetic. Vintage soft leathers inluxurious classical colours complement thebags and small leather goods.


SCOOP—

DYNASTY JEWELLERY Dynasty Jewellery is a contemporary Londonbrand by Danish designer Kamilla Thorsen.All pieces are handmade in the capital, fusingtraditional techniques of marquetry andmodern laser-cutting techniques.

PYRUS A laid-back style is central to London labelPyrus, with relaxed shapes and understatedand yet quirky detailing key. Look out forpretty dresses, informal trousers, short suitsand sports-luxe inspired casual separates.

VILAGALLO Vilagallo appeals to modern, cosmopolitan andelegant women who value exclusivity andquality. Colour is central to the range, whetherin the form of intricate prints or colour blockingagainst a backdrop of flattering shapes.

TRANSIT PAR SUCH Italian brand Transit Par Such is a familybusiness with a 30-year history, and itsphilosophy is based on the principle of“simplicity is complex”. The DNA is a mixture of top raw materials, soft colours and timeless design.


BREAD & BUTTER—

BREAD&BUTTER&BUTTERContemporary street and urbanwear trade show Bread & Butter Contemporary street and urbanwear trade show Bread & Butter returns to Berlin’s Tempelhof Airport exhibition venue on 8-10 July.returns to Berlin’s Tempelhof Airport exhibition venue on 8-10 July.WWB looks ahead.

SILVER SANDS

Inspired by the natural beautyand spirit of beach and oceanculture, Lithuanian label Silver Sands is building upon itsinternational presence with itsarrival at Bread & Butter. Thisseason sees the brand focus onthe silhouettes inspired by thenatural flow of the waves andpure, hand-drawn prints acrossits collection of dresses, skirts,tops and coats. — 7 FOR ALL MANKIND

International denim label 7 For All Mankind launchesDenim Delight for s/s 15 – thebrand’s lightest-ever jeansweighing in at 4.5oz. Available inblack and blue in the brand’ssignature skinny silhouette,Denim Delight is characterisedby a clean aesthetic and a second-skin fit. —

CULTURE

Inspired by feminine lace,graphic-led blurred dots and theintricate designs of preciousporcelain, Culture presents aneclectic collection for the newseason. The Danish labelincorporates each of its fresh newinfluences into its signaturebohemian styling with a nod toScandinavian design throughoutthe spectrum of its latest range. —

SET

Interpreting urban style in a way that is wearable formodern city life, Set adds a rock-inspired edge tocontemporary silhouettes in women’s fashion. Thisseason sees the brand focus on casual sophisticationwith its latest range for s/s 15. —

THE LAST CONSPIRACY

Danish brand The LastConspiracy specialises in artisanfootwear designed to withstandthe test of time through itsquality and design. Handmade inEurope, the label combinesPortuguese craftsmanship withNordic minimalism. —

SILVIAN HEACH

Italian label Silvian Heach focuses onelegance and femininity this season with its latest range of stylistic designs with anunconventional edge. —

YUMI

This season sees British label Yumiturn to its English heritage roots forinspiration, with floral prints, lacedetailing and quirky animal motifscoming to the fore of the springcollection. Natural and texturedfabrics are key, while the brandmaintains its commitment toflattering silhouettes with macs,two-piece skort suits and playsuits, alldesigned to create a feminine figure. —


BREAD & BUTTER—

FLY LONDON

Brushed nubuck, suede and moose leathermake for a tactile range from Fly London.Traditional European craftsmanship isprevalent throughout the collection, whichfeatures intriguing silhouettes such as theElve peep-toe buckled boot (pictured). —

BLAUMAX

Since its inception in 1978,Austrian label Blaumax hasestablished a globalpresence with its denim-focused collectionsand casualwear for bothwomen and men. Thisseason sees the brand arrive at Bread & Butterwith its latest range of basic jeans and understatedcasual pieces. —

JUJU

British footwear label JuJu specialises in timeless jellydesigns re-released each season with a contemporarytwist. This summer sees the brand unveil furtherdevelopments including two-tone colour combinations aswell as its bestselling shapes in a range of summer hues. —


LONDONSWIMWEARSHOWThe London Swimwear Show, taking place on 20-22 July at London’sRadisson Blu Portman Hotel, brings together the latest styles in swimwear and beachwear for s/s 15. WWB looks ahead at the highlights.

LONDON SWIMWEAR SHOW—

VEVIEInspired by classic beachlocations in Britain,France and the Hamptons,where faded memories ofa glamorous beach ageremain, Vevie bursts ontothe scene for s/s 15 with a palette of juicysherbert-mix tones, deepmarine blues and vanillahues. Launched in 2012,the brand builds upon itsevolving identity as arefreshing swimwearlabel with its scoop, halterand bandeau silhouettesin tailored cup sizes B-E. —

HUIT

Glamour is the focus for Huit this summer as the brandadds shimmering lurex and crisp, 50s-inspired polka-dotprints to its cleverly designed silhouettes that fit andflatter. Also look out for sports-luxe influencesinterpreted through bold simplicity, structured shapesand piping detailing. —

HURLEY

With its roots firmly in surf culture, Hurley has diversified inrecent seasons to become a more comprehensive lifestyle label witha focus on sexy athleticism. This season sees the brand focuses onbeautiful prints and soft fabrics in simple yet striking designs. —

ANITA

The 2015 Anitaswimwear collectionhas a lavish selection ofcuts, styles and patternsthat can be cleverlycombined to suit allkinds of figures andrequirements with aperfect fit through tothe large cups. The corecollections covermaternity, post-surgery,large cup and comfort. —

BAKU

With a heritage in swimweardesign stretching over fourdecades, Australian label Baku is best-known for its figure-flattering designs in eye-catching prints. Thisseason sees the brandarrives at the LondonSwimwear Showamid an explosionof prints across itsportfolio ofenhancing silhouettesdesigned up to a G cup. —


LONDON SWIMWEAR SHOW—

GINJACute and flirty, the lateststyles from Australianlabel Ginja mix bold solidswith vivid florals andtextured chevron zig-zagsfor a distinctive array ofswimwear designs.Created in line with thebrand’s surfer-chickidentity, the latest stylestarget the young, energeticconsumer demographic. —

PIA ROSSINI

The latest resortwear collectionby Pia Rossini features the newly introduced kimono,designed to offer a stylish cover-up for beachwear,swimwear and cruisewear. —

MIRACLESUIT

Miraclesuit complements itscontinuity styles in staple blockcolours with an array of brightlycoloured patterns across itssignature shaping silhouette.Manufactured from the brand’sunique Miratex fabric, thecollection offers shapingproperties without the need forbulky layers or panelling. —

AGUACLARA

Originally conceived in thePeruvian capital of Limaover 20 years ago, Aguaclarahas developed into a globalswimwear label best-knownfor its enhancing shapes andstyles. The brand remainstrue to its roots season afterseason and once againunveils a collection createdby native Peruvians, thistime with a focus on animal prints. —

FREYASports-luxe styling andcolour blocking are key forFreya’s swimwear line thisseason as the brand takes abold design step whilemaintaining its commitmentto the perfect fit in sizes D-G.Cleavage-enhancing haltershapes feature alongsidelongline bikini tops for a widechoice of shapes designed to beas wearable as they are eye-catching. —


FORUM—

Independent boutique Iris opened itsfirst regional store in Amersham,Bucks, in May, bringing its mix ofpremium womenswear, homeware,children’s clothing and gifts to thetown’s thriving high street.

Co-owner Annie Pollett says of Iris’ fourth location,“Amersham has the feel of a London village and seemedlike a perfect fit for Iris. We are hoping the residents willappreciate all our gorgeous labels that are not currentlyavailable in the area.”

Labels stocked include Isabel Marant, VanessaBruno Athé, Carven, Current Elliott, J Brand and Duffy.—

IRIS OPENS FIRSTSTORE OUTSIDELONDON

VINTAGE GLAMOUR POPSUP IN CAMBRIDGE

Models in vintage gownsmingled with guests sippingchampagne at the launch of theMay Ball Pop-Up dress shop lastmonth at Cambridgeindependent Boudoir Femme,where vintage and pre-owneddesigner evening gowns will beon sale until the end of June.Guests were also treated topampering treatments fromlocal hair and beauty salon Finn Jordan. —

I try to maintain a healthy detachment in thisindustry. It’s notoriously easy to get caught upin the frenzy and emotion of fashion, and Ihave always tried to adopt a cautious and

practical approach to business. —

I’ve never professed to be a fashion-followingcreative – I consider it my task to buy clothesthat are great value and a little different towhat our customers may find elsewhere.Buying styles that will sell is my duty. Mystaff can generate the enthusiasm for theproduct, but I am driven by itscommerciality. When we have a collectionbrought to us and I receive input from otherstaff members, I am sometimes told that astyle I have selected is “boring”. My answer isinvariably, “It may be boring, but it will sell.”

I am motivated by the words of myfather, who has always insisted that if youhave the right product and deliver superiorservice, you will never have a problem. I trulybelieve that if you carry some different labelsthat inspire your customer and make yourown stamp on your collections, you willsucceed. New introductions for us this seasoninclude Joe’s jeans, Rosemunde fromDenmark and Brax trousers.

During my time here, I’ve alwaysadopted a cautious financial approach, sowe’ve been able to continue to invest in thebusiness. Over the next few years we plan torefresh and update the shop front andinteriors and make sure we remain adestination store. We are introducing somenew brands with a view to developing ayounger, premium denim section, includingArticles of Society and Joe’s jeans, and ayoung lifestyle fashion space, with Barbourand Gant as the focus. People have mixedviews on concessions, but East has workedwell for us, giving us great footfall atrelatively little cost. We will be courting thepremium fashion sector gently, too, but I amalways mindful of value over brandendorsement. Regardless of the status of alabel, if it doesn’t sell and the fit isn’t rightfor our customer, we will discontinue it.

Neil Welker is the managing director andowner of Elliotts in Lymington, Hampshire,and is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB)www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

RETAIL DIARYThe latest news from the industry—

RETAILFORUM


FORUM—

TEN YEARS OF THE CARNABYSHOPPING PARTY

London’s Carnaby celebrated the 10-yearanniversary of its annual shopping partyrecently, with an event that saw 120 brandstake part.

Initiatives included a 20 per cent discount instores and restaurants, DJs and live bandsperforming in-store and on streets, stylingsessions, trend talks and mini makeovers.Claire Harris, of landlord Shaftesbury, says,“It’s not just about the 20 per cent discount, itis also the experience and wealth of activitythroughout the area that drives a largeamount of footfall to the event. Shaftesburyis proud of its partnership with the brands.”—

HILFIGER HEADSNORTHTommy Hilfiger has opened a new store inEdinburgh, located in the city’s premiumshopping district, Multrees Walk. The shopspans two floors and showcases the newestTommy Hilfiger and Hilfiger Denim,footwear and accessories collections.

“I’m excited to open our first store inEdinburgh and have the opportunity to shareour cool, classic American collections withshoppers in the city,” says Hilfiger. “Our newEdinburgh shop embodies our global retailcreative identity, with a mix of eclecticfurnishings and vintage details that capturethe preppy spirit and all-American heritageof our label.”

Marcos & Trump146 Columbia Road, London E2 7RG

Owner: Bee FriedmannEstablished: 2008Brands: Hiro + Wolf, Ichi, Darling, Closet,Dents, White Leaf, Bellfield

“Before we dealt with Marcos & Trump ithad already been one of my favourite shops.It’s ideally suited on Columbia Road, with itsvibrant, laid-back yet frenetic pace, and thebeautiful window displays always make mestop and smile. It’s like peering into a treasuretrove, but at pleasingly and surprisinglyaffordable prices. Owner Bee is alwayswelcoming and has found a balanced andrefreshing formula. She is not afraid toforward order on brands she believes in,while at the same time getting out and abouttrialling new brands or buying stock to offera constantly exciting mix.”—

MY FAVOURITESHOP...MARCOS & TRUMPby Stephanie Dawson, co-founder, Just Consultancies

ROSE HORSFIELDOwner, Pookie

Boutique, Barnsley

WHO WOULD BE YOUR DREAMCUSTOMER?

—

"It would have to beHolly Willoughby. Sheappeals to real womenbecause she is aworking mum whoalways looks good andis not into high-end,designer labels. I alsoknow she would lovesome of our stock. Shealready has a bag wecurrently offer – theJoanna handbag byLamb 1887."—

NICKY RISBYOwner, Ninni Noo

Boutique, Woodbridge

“For me, it would beVictoria Beckham. Iadmire how she hasreinvented herself as afashion designer andstyle icon. It would be acompliment and honourif she were to walk intoNinni Noo, especially ifDavid was with her!”—

RACHEL COLEOwner, Pure Clothing,

Huddersfield

“Alex Jones. She alwayslooks stunning, and herfun-loving personalitymeans she is happy totry edgy looks as well astimeless chic. I love howAlex pays a great dealof attention to her hairand make-up. Moreimportantly, everythingshe wears on TV sellsout in stores overnight.” —

GAIL NIVENOwner, Just G

Boutique, Edinburgh

“Michelle Williamsbecause she has anamazing sense of styleyet isn’t afraid to take arisk and stand out fromthe crowd. I love howshe continually evolvesher look. I’d like to thinkthat she’d be fun towork with, have greatchanging room chatsand be open tosuggestions from me!”—


DIRECTORY—

GARMENT STANDS

Distributed by: Arctic FoxUnit 22, Watford Metro Centre,

Tolpits Lane, Watford, Herts WD18 9UNTel: 01923 210646

Email: [email protected]

HEADWEAR

STEAMERS ANDIRONS

WANTED

HAT BOXES

DISPLAYS

To advertise please call Sam on

01484 846069

or [email protected]


01484 846069


AGENTS WANTED

AGENT WANTED

Jocavi, a well-established brand of jeans and

casualwear collections based near Barcelona, is seeking to

appoint an independent general sales agent for the UK.

Starting up incentives will apply.

For further information, please contact us on:Tel: +34 972 86 02 03

Email: [email protected] www.jocavi.com


01484 846069




UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL—

You’ve just won the Accessory Designer of the Year award at the recentUKFT Awards. What does this recognition mean to you? It was absolutely amazing! For me personally it feels like a huge honour. Ireally respect UKFT and the judges are at the heart of the fashion business inthe UK. For me, working at the coal-face of the business for so many years,there isn’t higher praise. And for us as a business it has been a real boost. Wework very much as a team and this has given us all a real lift.

You are one of the most respected British jewellery designers, andsome of your creations have almost iconic status. Did you always have acertain vision for your brand? From the start I wanted to bridge the gap between fashion, jewellery and craft,with originally designed, beautifully made, very fashionable jewellery. But Ialso wanted it to be affordable. I don’t think those values have changed one bit.

What fascinates you about jewellery design? I love to make things, and I’m very good at working in silver. I was lucky toreceive a fantastic technical training at the bench so I’m able to express myideas delicately and in fine detail. Most of my designs are based on nature,which comes from a wonderful childhood growing up in the countryside.

What have been the milestones in the history of your label? Every step amazes me! I’ve really just worked non-stop for over 25 years, andwhenever I stop and look up the business has grown again! There arememorable moments of course; the first cover of Vogue, winning awardslike this one, starting to see lots of people wearing my designs. But really it’sall about the person who saves up and buys one of our pieces and loves it.

Are there still things you would like to accomplish? Oh yes! I’ve just written my first book (called Two Turtle Doves) which is partmemoir and part description of the making process. My big ambition now isto put on a major exhibition about fashion jewellery and what it means topeople. I wouldn’t mind doing TV either, if it allowed me to enthuse aboutfashion jewellery. My ambition for the brand is to keep on doing what we do!

What is your most treasured piece of jewellery? Oops! This is a bit embarrassing… I don’t really own any jewellery. It’s allgone to my wife and daughters. I like to think they could answer thisquestion better than me!

INSIDER: —Who is your style icon? I’m not much of a celeb watcher. Ilove people watching on buses andtrains. You see so many cool people,much more stylish than any celebs.—Which business do you admire? I like Old Town in Holt in Norfolk,because they’re cool and stylish andthey don’t try too hard. I like Albam,too – their clothes really suit me!—What’s the best piece of industryadvice you’ve ever been given? I was once advised to stay away fromthe flash geezer in a flash car.People who are careful with theirmoney make much better partners inbusiness. —What’s the one fashion item youcan’t live without? My Margaret Howell cord jacket,bought in 1998 for a small fortune,but still looks great. —

ALEX MONROEThe jewellery designer shares some of the milestones of his 25 years in the businessand reveals why his wife and daughter are the real beneficiaries of his trade.

—



Documents

WWB MAGAZINE JUNE ISSUE 238