Woodside Pug Cross Guide - Rascaille Dogs · Woodside Pug Cross Guide Guide ... Woodside Guide To Your Pug Puppy, Page 4. ... do you really want a huge dog on your sofa or jumping

Woodside Pug Cross Guide

Guide To Having Your New Puppy Home

Woodside Guide To Your Pomeranian Puppy, Page �1

Contents

1. Welcome Home Puppy

2. Feeding Guide

3. Vaccinations

4. Microchip

5. Insurance

6. Worming

7. House training

8. Temperament and traits

9. Grooming

10.Socialisation

12. Basic Training and Exercise

Woodside Guide To Your Pug Puppy, Page �2

1. Welcome Home Puppy

Your puppy is going to feel very strange at its new home. When you arrive home with your puppy, please give him/her some honey which we have provided in your puppy pack. Just put a little on your finger and let puppy lick it off.

Prepare you puppy’s basket or crate with warm draught free place where they can rest and enjoy their food undisturbed. The most effective method found is crate training. Crate training is NOT caging your dog, but providing a lace of confinement thats both safe and limits the potential for bathroom accidents. Your new puppy will need plenty of rest and security. The first few nights can be difficult please apologise to your neighbours and don't give in by going to comfort your puppy. Completely ignore the noise as best as you can, puppy will soon learn its new bedtime routine.

FIRST STEP Book / Register your puppy within 2 weeks with your OWN VET, introduce them!

Before your new puppy arrives, there are a few things you need to get ready to make sure they’re comfortable and happy in their new home.

Food and water bowls

Choose heavy-bottomed ceramic or stainless steel food and water bowls. Plastic bowls will probably end up as chew toys, and the tooth marks could become a haven for bacteria and damage teeth and gums. A heavy bowl will also be harder for your dog (and you) to knock over by accident.

Identification tag

By law, all dogs must wear a tag on their collar showing their owner’s name and address. It’s a good idea to add your phone number too. You can order a tag over the internet or at your local pet shop. Your puppy will also be micro chipped, therefore it is a good idea to put on the tag that he or she is micro chipped. You’ll have a much better chance of being reunited if your puppy or dog goes missing. Your details will have been registered to your micro chip before your puppy goes home to you.

Something to chew on

Dogs love chewing and a teething puppy or dog will chew anything they can get their jaws around. So if you want to protect your socks, your shoes and your sofa, buy a selection of chews for your puppy to test their teeth on instead. Just make sure they’re


non-toxic, durable and not too tough for puppy or dog teeth. And never leave your puppy or dog alone with anything that could choke them, splinter in their mouth or electrocute them.

Toys to play with

There’s an amazing selection of dog toys out there – take a look in your local pet shop or go online: you’ll find safe rings, balls, slings, tugs and fabric frisbees. They’re all designed to make your play and training sessions more fun – for you and your dog. Make sure the toy isn't too big or heavy for your Pom puppy.

Grooming kit

For your puppy, grooming isn’t just about making them look smart, it’s a bonding experience that reminds them of being back with their mother. Visit your pet shop to pick up a comb or a brush and plan daily grooming sessions.

You’ll also need to clip your dog’s nails and give them a bath from time to time – so it’s worth picking up a pair of nail clippers and some dog-friendly shampoo too.

Stair gates

Stairs, balconies and ponds should all be out of bounds for an inquisitive puppy or dog – and a strategically placed baby stair gate will do the job when you’re not there to supervise. A gate can also help you protect your furniture and possessions from your puppy or dog’s unstoppable chewing instinct.

Using a crate

You may have used a travelling crate to bring your puppy or dog home in. And as long as the crate’s big enough for your puppy or dog to turn around in comfortably, it’s great for indoor use as well. Dogs hate to go to the toilet in their own bed, so a crate is a great toilet-training aid in those first few weeks when your puppy is adjusting to their new routine. You can also use it to take them in the car to explore new sights and sounds. At night, put your puppy or dog to bed in their crate and, as long as you let them out at suitable intervals, they won’t have accidents on the floor.

Your dog’s first food

Arriving at their new home is going to be a big change for your dog. Please stick to the Eukenuba food that you are given home with puppy. If you decide to change the dogs diet, ensure that you wean gradually over 4 weeks by mixing the new food in with the old. It is important to feed a complete and balanced dog food appropriate for the dogs age and life-style.


A collar and lead

You won’t be able to take your new puppy or dog out for walks until they’ve had all of their vaccinations. You can spend this time getting them used to wearing their collar and a lead. That way, it won’t be an issue when it’s time to explore the outside world.

Collars and leads come in a variety of materials. Nylon or soft leather adjustable collars are recommended, as they’ll grow with your puppy or dog. Adjust the buckle so that you can comfortably put a couple of fingers between the collar and your puppy or dog’s neck. Check the fit regularly; you’ll be amazed at how fast they grow.

For small breeds I prefer using a harness – it makes it easy to protect delicate necks. (Remember to make sure your puppy or dog still wears an ID tag.)

First Couple of weeks

Your puppy may have loose stools for the first week or so. This is caused by stress of moving homes. If there is ever spots of bright red blood it will most likely be Colitis. This is common in puppies when they move homes. You vet will give you a course of Metronidazole which will clear it up in 3-5 days.

The first week is all about bonding with your puppy, if you must go out don’t leave your puppy for too long. Please ensure that your puppy has access to water at all times and plenty of toys to entertain himself.

If you have another dog or other household pets, please introduce puppy slowly and supervised.

Please sit down with all family members and discuss house rules, you don’t want to confuse your puppy with different house rules for different people. for instance your puppy will not stay small for long, do you really want a huge dog on your sofa or jumping up at everyone. The worst is when children encourage puppy to play bite as the dog gets older it get harder to correct. This all begins as a puppy, so please start as you mean to go on. Pomeranians are really easy to train and settle into family environments very well.

Please remember that puppies are not toys! They need their rest and shouldn't be over stimulated especially in the first few days at their new home.


If this is the first time you have ever owned a puppy I strongly recommend that you buy a basic training puppy book.

2. Feeding Guide

Your puppy is currently fed on EUKENUBA small breed puppy food 4 times daily. You may add a small amount of warm water. Do not feed raw chicken, pork, dairy products, onions, grapes or chocolate. Pos do not need to eat large meals, over feeding will cause diarrhoea.

It is best to start off with small measured amounts of food and build upwards.

If you miss a feed do not double up on the next. Just carry on as normal.

At 12 weeks of age reduce meals to 3 times per day.

Your puppy will need to eat around 100-140 grams daily when you bring him home. He or she will possibly be quite fussy to start with till he or she settles in.


Eukenuba Puppy Small Breed FoodThese instructions are for GUIDELINES ONLY (I leave my food down 24/7) All busy

households / owners are different

Meal Amount Time Preparation

Breakfast 35g 8-9AM SOAK IN HOT WATER UNTIL SOFT and generally work

towards dry (If not already dry)

Lunch 35g 12-1PM Same as above until at least 12 weeks of age

Dinner 35g 5-6PM Soaked biscuits and boiled or baked chicken breast cut into very small pieces

Supper 35g 9-10PM Either biscuits or chicken. Do not worry if they do not eat it all.

Water Small bowl ALWAYS ALWAYS leave fresh water and if required GOATS milk down for your puppy at room temperature.

Try to supervise your puppy eating. Always wash bowls thoroughly after meals

At 7 months reduce meals to twice daily. you may need to slightly adjust the amounts to suit your growing puppy, but remember to do it gradually.

At 10 months gradually change to adult Eukenuba food. After great trial and error we found Eukenuba to be great for adult maintenance.

3. Vaccinations

Your puppy will have either had the first of their 2 vaccinations or will be full vaccinated. If you are collecting your puppy at 8 weeks of age then when you get your puppy home, book in with your vet for his or her second vaccination. Some vets will do the second vaccination 2 weeks after the first and some prefer to wait 4 weeks apart. The vaccinations are to protect against diseases such as Canine Distemper, hepatitis, Parvo virus and Leptospirosis. PLEASE DO NOT take your puppy into a public area until 1 week after the second vaccination. If you are collecting your puppy at 12 weeks of age, they will have had all of the necessary vaccinations.

4. Microchip - Identity disc

Your puppy will have had a micro chip implanted before you take him or her home. This will be registered with smart trac. We will register your details to the micro chip before you take puppy home.

5. Insurance

Your puppy is insured with Petplan for 4 weeks from the day he or she leaves our home. It is a fact that 2 out of 3 dogs will need veterinary treatment at some point each year due to accidents or illness and treatment can become very expensive. Small monthly payments are not too much to ask for when needing the very best in healthcare insurance for your dog. On average a broken leg can cost up to £5000 in vets fees.


6. Worming

Your puppy has been de wormed at 2,5 and 8 weeks. From age 12 weeks your puppy should be de wormed every month till 6 months, then every 4 months there after.

All dogs are likely to suffer from worms at some point in their life, it's important to know all about them.

Bringing up the subject of worms in your dog conjures up all manner of unpleasant images, and, let’s face it, we’d rather not talk about them. But even though they make the most hardened stomachs squirm, the issue of worms needs to be thought about. All dogs are likely to play host to these unpleasant parasites at some point in their lives, and they can cause serious problems.

Types of worms

There are two main types of worm that affect dogs: roundworms and tapeworms. Roundworms look like strands of spaghetti and can reach up to 20cm in length. They live on partially digested food in the dog’s bowel, and adults release microscopic eggs that are passed out into the environment in the dog’s faeces. If a dog sniffs, licks, or plays in an area containing contaminated faeces the eggs can be picked up on his muzzle and paws and then ingested. Tapeworms have distinctive, flat segments and are found in the dog’s intestines. Tapeworm eggs need to be eaten by an intermediate host, such as a flea, and when a dog swallows the host he becomes infected. All worms cause health risks, not only to your dog, but other dogs and people too — which is why it is so important to worm your dog regularly.

See the signs

By the time your dog shows signs of worms it means that there is already an infestation. Signs include:

• Weight loss and being visibly underweight.

• Worms in faeces, vomit, or around the anus.

• Bottom scooting.

• Hunger.

• Flaky skin.

• Dull coat.

• Diarrhoea.


• Vomiting.

Less common signs include:

• Coughing.

• Skin disease.

• Constipation.

• Breathing difficulties.

• Recurring infections.

• Lethargy, weakness, or swelling of the limbs.

Prepare and prevent

A preventative strategy is a much more effective way of combating worms, as once your dog shows signs of an infestation these wrigglers will already be doing their damage. y

When a wormer is given it will rid your dog of any worms in his digestive tract. However, it won’t prevent reinfection so it’s important to have a year-round programme in place. Frequency of worming will depend on the product you use, the age of your dog, and his lifestyle. I always use Panacur and Drontal. Always read the instruction guide in the box

Puppies are wormed every two to three weeks, from two weeks until 12 weeks old, then monthly until six months old, and then every four months should be sufficient. If your dog likes to scavenge, if you live in an area with a high risk of infestation, or have young children you may need to worm your dog more regularly.

Scoop your dog’s poo

As worm eggs leave your dog’s body in his faeces it is important to pick up your dog’s poo. If you don’t, another dog can come into contact with it and pick up worms. Be quick and thorough, as even if every trace of faeces has disappeared, the eggs can remain in grass or soil for up to two years. Remember to pick up poo in your garden as well.

Stop your dog from scavenging

If your dog likes to scavenge, keep an eye on him as he can pick up worms from other animals’ faeces, and from the carcasses of animals such as birds and rabbits. If you


struggle to control your dog’s scavenging habits a muzzle may be the answer when out on walks. As tapeworms commonly come from fleas it is important that your dog is treated for

fleas regularly. Treat him for these when you worm him.

Treatment

There are many types of treatment for worms, including pastes, syrups, spot-ons, tablets, granules, and liquids. Your vet will help you decide which is best for your dog and your situation.

Tablets: These can be given whole concealed in a treat such as chicken or cheese, or ground and hidden in food. There are now tablets available which combat roundworm and tapeworm in one dose.

Granules: Some dogs will refuse tablets and so granules are an easier method. They can be mixed into your dog’s food, but make sure he finishes his dinner.


Age (weeks) Worming carried out

Wormer Used

2w YES 1 single dose of Drontal puppy suspension

5w YES x 3 doses of Panacur for 3 consecutive days

8w YES 1 single dose of Drontal puppy suspension

10w 1 single dose of Drontal puppy suspension

12w 1 dose Advocate for flea and worm precaution

There after de worm your puppy every 4 months with either Drontal or Panacur.

Worming tips

1. Worm all dogs in the household at the same time.

2. Make notes on your calendar of when treatments are due so that you don’t forget.

3. Store wormers safely out of reach of children and animals.

4. Always wash your hands after using a worming product.

5. Always read the manufacturer’s instructions.

Did you know?

• Victorian ladies swallowed tapeworms to help them lose weight!

• Tapeworm segments which pass out in your dog’s faeces look like grains of rice, but look closer and you’ll see them moving.

• Other types of worms in dogs include the hookworm, whipworm, heartworm, and lungworm.

• Female roundworms can produce up to 200,000 eggs a day.

7. House Training

Your puppy has started to learn to do the toilet on puppy pads. Obviously when your puppy moves into their new home they will be a little disorientated and take a day or 2 to get used to their new surroundings. When you see your puppy sniffing around, or making small circles take him or her to their pad, or if fully vaccinated, right outside. From two to four months of age, most pups pick up on the concept of housebreaking and crate training quite easily since it is part of their natural programming. Some puppies can take up to 6 months to be fully house trained. So please be PATIENT.

Puppy’s digestive tract

Another built-in plus when it comes to housebreaking is our puppy’s digestive tract, which is extremely quick and efficient. Five to thirty minutes after the puppy eats, he or she will want to go to the toilet. So with a consistent eating schedule, and your attention to the clock, your puppy can maintain regular trips outside.


In the early days of housebreaking, you also want to make sure the puppy has a place to relieve herself where she feels safe; a place that seems and smells familiar. Most will often go in the very same spot they’ve done so before. The scent acts like a trigger.

As always, remember that your own energy is a big factor in your housebreaking efforts. If you are feeling nervous or impatient or are trying to rush a puppy to relieve herself, that can also stress her out. Using a loud, high squeaky tone to encourage your puppy to “go potty” is a distraction to the dog, so try and avoid any conversation at all.

Setting a routine

First thing every morning, bring your puppy outside to the same general area. It is important to remain consistent throughout the process so your puppy can learn the habit.

Once your puppy has successfully gone outside, it is important to reward the good behaviour. It doesn’t have to be a big, loud celebration, but a simple quiet approval or a treat can get the message across of a job well done.

Positive reinforcement

Don’t punish your puppy for an accident or do anything to create a negative association with her bodily functions. Stay calm and assertive and quietly remove the puppy to the place where you want him to go.

Done correctly, housebreaking should not be a turbulent process, but just a matter of putting a little extra work into getting your puppy on a schedule during the first weeks after she arrives at your home. Don’t let unnecessary stress over this very natural, uncomplicated process taint any of the joy surrounding the puppy training process and your new dog’s puppyhood.

Take your puppy to his / her toilet area as soon as he / she has eaten or awoke, trust me this will speed up your training and ensure you PRAISE WELL!

When your puppy is at the stage of going to the toilet outside in your garden. Always take him to the same spot that you have allocated for him to do his business. Once your puppy has established a place as their toilet area, they will continue to use this place. Therefore it is very important that it is a place that YOU want him to use. If you simply put your puppy out your back door into the garden and shut the door, this will only cause problems. Firstly, you are not there to praise puppy when he or she does the toilet. Secondly, he or


she will most likely come as close to the house as possible, resulting in doing the toilet on your door step. The routine is then set that that is the spot that he or she will always want to go to. You cannot then get annoyed at him, as you have effectively set that as routine.

Puppies, especially young ones cannot be expected to hold their urine for more than a couple of hours. About 2 - 4 hours for pups aged 8 to 12 weeks, 4 - 6 hours for pups aged 12 to 16 weeks and about 8 hours for adolescent dogs after 4 months of age. Of course this varies with the breed and feeding schedule you use. Do not expect a puppy to be able to wait hours until you get around to taking him out.

When accidents happen in the house during house training. Do not rub your dogs nose in the mess. If there’s an accident, its actually your fault because you are suppose to be watching your pup. Crate training demands that you carefully with your pup whenever they are out of the crate to eliminate the possibility of accidents. Rubbing their nose in the mess does nothing for them accept increase the likelihood of an infection caused by the urine or other mess.

Dont take house training for granted. It takes commitment and attention to your new companion to effectively house train them. Once the work is done however, imagine having a friend for years who will go to the door and ask to be let out instead of using your home as a bathroom. Consider house training as important to your dogs well being.


Toilet Training, Tips and Phrases

Toilet Training Tips

Take your puppy to his/her toilet area as soon as he/she wakes up. Also straight his/her meals. Praise well DO NOT punish for mistakes. Some puppies take approx 6 months to perfect. Your puppy has been training to use puppy pads.

Phrases and commands

Toilet Food Sleep Treats To Follow Play

Wee wee Dinner, dinner, dinner

In your BED Treat treat Come Pop, pop, pop

8. Temperament and Traits

Temperament

Pug crosses are very sweet-tempered and playful. They are energetic, intelligent, and affectionate. A Pug cross is a great companion and will bond with you quickly. They like to be in close contact and will follow you around the house. They are also very curious dogs that love to smell new things and find new places to go. They have a great sense of smell and will track some scents like the beagle. They are always happy to see you when you return from being away. To say a Pug cross is a social dog is an understatement. They love meeting new dogs at the dog parks or while out on a walk in the neighbourhood. Pug crosses are very friendly and get along with most people. They are good around children, young adults, adults, as well as seniors. They also do good around other pets and around a second or third.


Do’s an Dont’s of Toilet Training

Do Don’tAlways praise Puppy when he/she has done well Shout at you puppy if he or she has an accident

Always take your puppy to their toilet area as soon as he/she wakes

Take your puppy out of his crate in the morning and simply allow him to run around the house till he has an accident

If he has an accident, calmly take him to his toilet area Rub you puppy’s nose in his or her mess!!

Consider house training Smack your puppy for having an accident

Take puppy out for the toilet after every nap Expect your puppy to tell you that he or she needs the toilet. That will come, but it will take time.

When you see puppy sniffing and walking in smaller circles, take him to his toilet area straight away

Feed your puppy salty food which are going to make them drink lots of water, resulting in needing to go to the toilet more often.

Use a key phrase when puppy is actually doing the toilet. Use the term ‘Good Boy/Girl’ as puppy will get confused every time you praise him/her.

Keep your puppy food the same Introduce lots of new foods early on. It will only result in your puppy having a runny tummy

Put rugs away in the house as puppy will most likely think that it is a puppy pad!!

Get annoyed or be surprised if your puppy does not go to the toilet when out on walks straight away.

Always be PATIENT Feed your puppy too late at night

Pug x Activity

Pug crosses have a good amount of energy and love to play. They enjoy going on long, brisk walks and running around in small, fenced in areas. It can be beneficial to a Pug crosses' behaviour to make sure they are getting enough exercise. Daily activity in the form of walk or play can prevent boredom and bad destructive behaviour. Unlike Pugs, the Pug cross has a longer snout and can handle more activity. Still take care in extreme weather, cold or hot, that it is not overdone and they have plenty of water.

Pug x Training

Pug crosses are fairly easy to train as they are intelligent and treat motivated. Pug crosses can learn all basic commands including: sit, down, stay, settle, off, take it, leave it, fetch, roll over, give me paw, and come. More advanced skills can be taught and require additional training. Pug crosses can learn agility courses as they like to perform. Toilet training can be challenging at times. The best way to train is with reward and repetition.

Pug Allergies

A Pug cross is not a hypoallergenic dog. Both parent breeds are also not hypoallergenic dogs.

10. Grooming

Care

It is very important to spend time grooming your dog not only to keep him clean, but also for his muscle tone and time spent bonding between dog and owner. They have an easy-care coat that is short and requires minimal grooming. It is advised to brush the coat


weekly to remove excess, loose hair. A more frequent brushing can occur if you find excess hair on your clothes or furniture. Bathing can be kept to a minimum, usually once a month, to avoid dry, itchy skin. They should have their teeth brushed to prevent the buildup of plaque over time.

Shedding

They do shed moderately. Their short hair and smaller size seem to minimise the problem. It is advised to brush your dog weekly to remove excess, loose hair.

Face, eyes and ears If your Pug cross has folds in his face they will need to be cleaned with a cotton bud to ensure that there is no dirt building up. Your Pug cross should not have eyes which ported to the extent of a full Pug, however it is important to check your dogs eyes on a regular basis for any signs of scratches on blue/grey centre of eye. If you find any of these please take your dog to the vet as it will not get better on its own!

Tools

You will need:

• a soft brush

• Puppy shampoo (I recommend Superfine or Forever Living aloe vera shampoo)

• Tooth brush

• Canine toothpaste

• Towels

• Fresh wipes

• Cotton buds

• Nail clippers (optional)


11. Socialisation

Your puppy has been well socialised from the day he or she was born. I handle all of my puppies from day 1. I follow a PUPPY PLAN which I put in place with the aid of thepuppyplan.com. This is a very useful site for breeders and new owners to use to set a proper plan in place. I strongly recommend using this site to put your plan in place.

Socialisation so far

By 2 -3 weeks old your puppy’s eyes will have opened and they are becoming more responsive to interaction. At this stage I introduce a baby mobile to the puppies pen. I let them walk on different surfaces as they learn so much from their feet. I rub different textures on them, i.e. wool, brushes etc. By 4 - 5 weeks they are up on their feet and moving around a lot more. At this stage they are being introduced to household noises such as the washing machine, hoover, television and children. I play a CD with noises of thunder etc. I encourage them to pull, carry, move around, climb through and tug. All of which aids co ordination, strength, agility and sharing. Over the next few weeks puppy’s Mum is playing a very important role in socialising her young. It can be clear to see a puppy who has been part of a litter and been reared by both their Mother and by breeder. Compared to puppies who are orphaned for whatever reason. They may lack the very important time that their Mother and other siblings spend together. A puppy’s mother will educate their young in how to behave around each other and most importantly how to deal with frustration. From 5 - 7 weeks I am encouraging puppy to follow, lots of human contact using treats if necessary. I try to take them all out on a very short car journey. Pomeranians tend to be travel sick, therefore I try and take them out at this stage to get them used to being in a car. When returning from a car journey I alway give puppy a little honey to increase sugar levels. By the time your puppy is 8 weeks and ready for his or her new home they will have:

• Met different types of people.

• Met other dogs, cats and horses.

• Been around tractors and lorries (whilst being carried)

• Been in a car

• Played with various different toys

• Been on lots of different surfaces


http://thepuppyplan.com

• Been indoors and outdoors

• Done some problem solving activities e.g. climbing over, crawling under, getting a toy from under something etc

When your puppy first arrives home, begin by getting him used to the immediate members of your family, allowing him time to take stock of his new environment. Instil confidence in him and do not bombard him with too many new faces in his first few days with you. There will be plenty of opportunity to introduce him to your wider circle of friends as the weeks pass.

Depending on the age of your puppy, and whether his course of vaccinations is complete, you may or may not be able to take him out in public places immediately. Whichever the case, I would still advise you to allow him to settle down at home for the first few days before venturing further. There will be lots you can do with your Puggle puppy, so you will both undoubtedly have great fun, but please allow him to get sufficient rest, too. Once your puppy has settled in you can always take him out in your arms and allow him to experience day to day living. You have to think about what day to day life will entail for your puppy. For example, do you live in the city or the countryside? Will he or she be around cars, tractors, busses? What other animals will your puppy be around, dogs, cats, cows, horses? Will he or she be around other people wearing certain types of clothing such as, high visibility vests, hats, uniforms etc.

If restricted to your home territory for a little while, you can play games with him, with suitably safe soft toys. Check regularly that sharp or unsafe parts, such as squeakers, do not become detached from the toy. These can cause injury, and your puppy’s teeth will be very sharp, so toys can easily be damaged.

All animals, including dogs, have a special sensitive period at the start of their lives. During this time, they learn to accept things around them so that they are not afraid of them later in life. In puppies, this window of opportunity closes at about 12-16 weeks of age. Anything that is encountered during this time will be tolerated, even enjoyed. After the window closes, unfamiliar people, objects and experiences are approached with caution and may become fearful, which could ultimately lead to aggression.

Puppy socialisation involves meeting and having pleasant encounters with many adults, children, dogs (puppies and adults), particularly during this sensitive period of their lives and then continuing until adulthood. During this process, they will also need to get used to a wide range of events, environments and situations.


The most common cause of fear and aggression is lack of socialisation. A puppy does not have to be miss-treated to become afraid of people or new

experiences.

Good socialisation is the best way to ensure a friendly, well-adjusted puppy

Why is socialisation so important?

To be a successful pet, dogs need to get on well with other living creatures as well as coping with a variety of different everyday experiences. Puppies that are well socialised grow up to be friendly and happy with people and animals, taking different situations in

their stride and enjoying going anywhere with their owners.

Sadly, not all puppies are so lucky. A puppy that has not received adequate socialisation may bite the postman or a child, may be aggressive to other dogs or very afraid of strangers. It may be very frightened when taken to new places, or to the vet, or be sick


Puppies Age (weeks)

Socialisation

1-2 weeks Handling from birth on a daily basis.

3 weeks - At this stage your puppy has opened their eyes and can see objects and shapes and has started to listen to what is going on around them.

4 weeks - Fun and Games stage

He is starting to develop his play behaviour and ability to deal with frustration. Encouraged to carry, pull, climb in, move around, tug with his littermates etc. Developing his co ordination, agility, strength and sharing. Spending 5-10 minutes at a time away from the rest of his litter.

5 - 7 weeks - Curiosity stage

Very important 2 weeks where puppy’s confidence is at its highest and his fear responses are at their lowest. Brain development when puppies are at their most curious and willing to approach people. Introducing all manners of sight, sounds, people and experiences. Eating out of different bowls and out of my hand, for him to learn that having humans around his food is a good thing. Meeting different people, i.e. men, women, children, elderly, beards, hats etc. Start wearing a collar for a short periods of time. Have short car journeys getting out and about to see different things. Pomeranians can be very prone to getting travel sickness, therefore I keep it to short5 - 10 minute journeys. Encourage him to follow me.

Week 8 - Starting a new life

Try to make sure that you puppy meets everything o your personal puppy plan 3 times or more in these very important 4 weeks. Continue to use noise CD. Leave him alone for longer periods of time. Teach him about relaxation and being calm around you. Introduce him to friendly fully vaccinated dogs. Use interactive toys such as stuffed with food for problem solving. We will be happy to assist you in putting together your own PUPPY PLAN to suit

both you and your new puppy.

through fear when riding in the car. A natural response of a fearful dog, if it has no means of escape, is aggression.

As well as aggression, many other behaviour problems have their origins in fear. This fear is often due to lack of adequate experience during puppy-hood. The resulting behaviour problems are often difficult for owners to cope with and may result in the dog being relinquished to an animal shelter where it will face a very uncertain future or, if the behaviour is extreme, in euthanasia.

More young dogs are euthanised because of behavioural problems than die from diseases we vaccinate against.

Good socialisation and habituation can help prevent many problems. The time to start is NOW!

How do I socialise my puppy?

Socialisation is easy – it just has to be done! Puppies need to experience as many encounters as possible during their first year of life, particularly during the sensitive period, without being overwhelmed with too much. We strongly suggest that you put together your own PUPPY SOCIALISATION PLAN. The best way that I suggest is by visiting www.thepuppyplan.com

With any puppy, you MUST continue socialisation when you get your puppy home. Carefully arrange for your puppy to have several new experiences every day, allowing plenty of time for rest and recuperation in between. Take your puppy out and about with you as much as possible, taking care not to overwhelm it with too much and to keep it safe from infectious diseases (see later). As your puppy gets older, he or she will be able to cope with longer encounters and more of them.

Make sure all encounters are enjoyable for your puppy. Give strangers tasty treats to feed your puppy and a favourite toy so they can play. If your puppy seems anxious or overwhelmed, give it more space and freedom to approach in its own time. Think ahead and try to prevent unpleasant events. Arrange for all encounters to be successful and rewarding. Remember young puppies tire easily so keep encounters short and sweet.


http://www.thepuppyplan.com

Puppy Socialisation Classes

Speak to your Vet about puppy socialisation classes. Most Vet practices now hold puppy socialisation classes for clients of the practice. This is great way for you and your new puppy to meet other puppies and their new owners. It gives you an opportunity to talk about any issues you might be having or just looking for some advice. As well as talking to new owners and exchange tips. Well organised puppy classes will:

• Match puppies up according to their size so that the bolder puppies don’t intimidate the more nervous or smaller ones, creating negative experiences for the smaller puppies, and make the bolder ones ‘social bullies’

• Manage any off-lead play carefully and if necessary, separate puppies that get a bit too boisterous so that they can calm down and re-join the party once they are calmer

• Discourage any kind of anti-social behaviour, such as biting that gets out of hand, very rough play and also show the owners how to discourage this

• Show owners how to handle and groom their puppies – and have others do this too

• Be fun positive experiences for puppies and owners giving areas to work on.

Humans – adults and children

Puppies need to have pleasant encounters with different types of people and different ages of children every day. Ensure your puppy has happy encounters with veterinary surgery staff and delivery people also. The more humans your puppy meets and plays with, the more tolerant and friendly it will become.

Other dogs and puppies

Puppies need to play with other dogs and puppies. Prevent your puppy from feeling overwhelmed by squatting down to create a safe haven to return to if he is worried. Allow him to mix with sociable dogs only. Interrupt any behaviour you do not want your puppy to show to other dogs as an adult. Join a good puppy class (see later) where he can learn to mix with others of different breeds and temperament.

Different experiences/environments

Take your puppy to places where he can experience car travel, traffic, crowds, towns and countryside. Imagine how it feels to be small and vulnerable and ensure your puppy is enjoying the experience.


Cats, livestock, horses

Puppies should meet a variety of other animals. Keep your puppy on a lead to prevent it from learning to chase or harass other animals. Your puppy is used to seeing other dogs, cats and horses.

Vaccination and socialisation

Young animals are very susceptible to disease before their immune systems have had a chance to become effective. Very young puppies acquire some immunity from their mothers which protects them during the early weeks. This fades over time and needs to be replaced by immunity stimulated by vaccinations.

Since keeping a puppy isolated until it has developed full immunity can ruin it's future character, a compromise must be reached between the need to protect against disease, and the need to ensure good mental health.

Your puppy will have had his first set of vaccinations at 8 weeks of age. They then have 2-4 weeks before they are fully vaccinated. You can take your puppy outside into your garden, however, you must be sure that no other animals may have passed through your garden. There may be foxes, stray cats or dogs that carry all sorts of disease an infection. That once passed through your garden can leave these diseases for your puppy to pick up. To get your puppy outside before he or she is vaccinated. I suggest carrying him/her in your arms outside every day. For example to the shop or to the park. You can also lay some bark or sand in a small area of your garden and cover with tarpaulin. Then when you take your puppy out for the toilet, the tarpaulin can be pulled back, knowing that no other animals will have walked on it.

12. Basic Training and Exercise

Cage or puppy pens are ideal for house training your puppy through the night or when you are out and puppy is unsupervised. It will prevent puppy from messing in your home, it also stops chewing and other naughty behaviour. You are not CAGING your puppy, quite the opposite. Crate training your puppy will give him a sense of security.

It is much nicer for your puppy and owner when there is no mess, as your puppy does not want to be shouted at, when puppy hasn't seen you for a while he/she just wants a bit of fuss and love.


Choose a large enough cage for your puppy to have a bed, water, bowl and space to move around, also remember that your puppy may be using the cage until he or she reaches adulthood/maturity.

Puppies can sometimes tip over their bowl in their cage, I recommend using solid pot bowls. Do not use the cage as punishment, if the puppy does something wrong in the home, use a harsh toned voice. It is useless trying to tell a puppy off after the incident, you must catch puppy in the process if being naughty, please try not to smack your puppy as this does not work and the puppy will become less trusting of you.

A dog need a lot of love and attention but please be realistic, they also need to learn manners, respect and authority. A Puggle is an intelligent breed and needs a certain amount of mental stimulation. Training schools are great fun and the whole family can get involved. Most puppy classes start at 12-16 weeks when puppy has had all their vaccinations. You will likely need to take your vaccinations records with you to your first class.

Find a suitable training instructor in your local area, your vets should have a list of approved training schools. Your Vet may also run PUPPY PARTIES. These are a good socialisation starting point, moving towards more training. When looking for a training school there should be no more that 8 dogs to one Instructor. If there are too many dogs in one class the Instructor cannot look out for any mistakes that you may be making. Find out how they train, it should all be treat based and no harsh punishment should be used. An 8 week course should teach you the basics then its up to you to choose if you would like to take the training further. I still take my puppies to training classes, there is always something, no matter how experienced you are around dogs, that someone else will pick up on and can offer some guidance and tips.

Accustom your puppy to being on a lead, which is always a strange experience for a tiny youngster. Begin by just attaching a simple collar, not too tightly, but it should not fit so loosely that it can be caught on things, causing panic and possible injury. Just put the collar on the pup for a few minutes at a time, lengthening each time period slightly until your puppy feels comfortable in his first item of clothing. Don't expect miracles; this may take a few days. A word of caution about collars: A collar can become too tight within a few days as the puppy develops. Check that the collar is not too tight around the puppy’s neck. If you can fit two fingers between the dog and the collar, that should be sufficient.


When the puppy is comfortable in the collar, attach a small lightweight lead. The one you select must have a secure catch, yet be simple to attach and release as necessary. Until now, your puppy has simply gone where he has pleased and will find it very strange to be attached to someone who is restricting his movements. For this reason, when training the puppies so far, I like to allow the pup to take me for the first few sessions. I then begin to gently guide him, and soon enough training can start in earnest, with the puppy coming with me as I lead the way. It is usual to begin training the puppy to walk on your left-hand side. When this has been accomplished to your satisfaction, you can try moving him on your right, but there is absolutely no hurry. If you plan to show your Puggle, you will generally move your dog on your left, but there are occasions when it is necessary also to move him on your right so as not to obstruct the judges view.

DO NOT OVER DO IT when trying to train your puppy, for example, to sit. Only spend a few minutes at a time on each activity. Always give lots of praise when your puppy does something correct, or even gives it her best shot. NEVER tell him or her off if they are not getting the hang of something. You will only dis hearten them, resulting in puppy thinking that any form of training is hard work and stressful. Always give your puppy plenty of rest, as they use up a lot of mental and nervous energy going to a puppy class or doing a training session.

Ensure when training that all command are given EXACTLY the same way. SIT is not SIT NICE!! They do not know what the word actually means, it is just the sound that they understand and remember.

Repetition is the key to good training. However, if you are not in the right frame of mind to train your puppy, then it is better to leave it till another time, when you have the time and patience for puppy.

Training your puppy will be very rewarding and could some day save your dogs life.

Exercise every day

It is really important that your puppy has exercise every day. This is a form of training where you teach your puppy healthy habits, discipline, and encourage socialisation. Doing it every day keeps the routine up: if you miss a day you will ‘feel’ it and not lapse in to more than a day of inactivity. Your puppy will love you for it as well.


Go slow for first year

Your puppy grows rapidly during its first few months, reaching adult size about 1.5 years. The joints, ligaments and muscle mass of your puppy needs time to develop, so don’t overdo it early on. If you push too hard, especially with repetitive-motion activities such as walking and running, you might put too much stress on the puppy’s ligaments which can lead to soreness, tiredness, and inflammation.

The 5-minute-month rule for walking

Walking is a great exercise activity: it is free, easy, and good for both your puppy and yourself! We recommend the ‘5-minute-month’ rule:

Walk your puppy each day, increasing 5 minutes each month.

For example, if your puppy is three months old, walk him or her for up to 15 minutes every day. If your puppy is six months old, walk up to 30 minutes every day. If you follow this simple formula you will build up the necessary walking exercise gradually and in-sync with your puppy’s natural growth over the first year.

After your puppy reaches his or her first birthday, you will be up to an hour of walking each day and can stay at this level. You might also graduate to jogging or running, or go for longer sessions, but only if your dog is used to walking and ready for the extra effort.

Any time is play time

15 minutes for a puppy does not sound like much, and it isn’t. However you can take on other exercise in the form of playing games. Simply ‘playing ball’ with your puppy will mix up the physical movements: starting, sprinting, slowing, stopping, turning, etc.

You can easily squeeze a few minute in here and there of play to fill out the day and tackle boredom.

Stay Cool

You know already that all dogs need clean drinking water available at all times to stay hydrated. If you live in a hot environment you might want to consider walking your puppy in the morning before the heat really builds up, and makes everyone just want to laze back and go to sleep.


If you start slow and build up exercise over the first year of life, mix in lots of play, and remember to keep your puppy hydrated, you will give your puppy a great start to a long healthy life. Just as important, you will get some exercise out of the deal as well!

You will find the more your dog learns, the better the relationship will become between you.

Once you have gained the love and devotion of your new family member, you will learn new meaning of friendship, and you will have a strong bond through many years that your dog is by your side.

If for any reason you can no longer give your puppy a loving home in the future, please contact me first to give my help and support in finding your new puppy another home. I will always take the dog back to be re-homed. Whilst I will find new home no payment will be made.

I have bred your new puppy with all the love, care and attention he or she needs before venturing off to their new forever homes. PLEASE take good care and continue giving them all the love, support and attention they deserve. All I ask in return is photographs and updates emailed now and again.

I wish you and your puppy a lifetime of happiness. If you need any further advice, have concerns or just want to update me on puppy’s progress, please do not hesitate to contact me.

Lindsay Jeffrey


Documents

Woodside Pug Cross Guide - Rascaille Dogs · Woodside Pug Cross Guide Guide ... Woodside Guide To Your Pug Puppy, Page 4. ... do you really want a huge dog on your sofa or jumping